Top 20 How Many Cc Per Jar Mushroom 3141 Votes This Answer

You are looking for information, articles, knowledge about the topic nail salons open on sunday near me how many cc per jar mushroom on Google, you do not find the information you need! Here are the best content compiled and compiled by the https://chewathai27.com team, along with other related topics such as: how many cc per jar mushroom how many cc per pint jar, how much lc per quart jar, how much liquid culture per jar, how much spore syringe per jar, inoculating jars with spore syringe, prf tek, pf tek large scale, improved pf tek

Gently squeeze out about 1.0-1.5 cc of spore solution into each jar, splitting up the amount if you inject through more than one hole. Some people suggest using an entire cc of solution per jar, however we have had great success with only . 5cc each.Usually about 1 – 2 CC’s of liquid culture is sufficient per quart sized grain jar. You can also inoculate the grain jar without even opening the lid, by simply injecting the liquid culture right though the filter on the top of the jar.Use 1 cc per jar. This will allow the syringe to inoculate 10 jars. You can actually use more spore solution per jar (speeds colonization) but then you won’t get as many jars per syringe. If the syringe needle plugs up as you insert it into the PF substrate, just draw the needle back a little and it will unplug.

How many cc is a liquid culture in a jar?

Usually about 1 – 2 CC’s of liquid culture is sufficient per quart sized grain jar. You can also inoculate the grain jar without even opening the lid, by simply injecting the liquid culture right though the filter on the top of the jar.

How many cc spore syringe per jar?

Use 1 cc per jar. This will allow the syringe to inoculate 10 jars. You can actually use more spore solution per jar (speeds colonization) but then you won’t get as many jars per syringe. If the syringe needle plugs up as you insert it into the PF substrate, just draw the needle back a little and it will unplug.

How many spores are in a jar?

What is the best grain for mushroom spawn?

Most people consider rye to be the best grain for mushroom spawn. It is nutritionally dense, holds plenty of water, and has relatively small grains with a large surface area. A large surface area is advantageous because it means more inoculation points for the mycelium.

How long do jars take to colonize?

It depends on the species or strain, grain type, the water content, the inoculum type and the incubating temperature. At optimum conditions pint jars need around 7 days to completely colonize, but it can take up to 30 days.

When should I shake my grain jars?

We typically shake the grain about three times during this process. The first time at this stage, the second when it’s about half or two-thirds colonized, and the third time just before moving it to a second grain run. In this image, you can see what a jar looks like when it’s fully colonized.

Can you reuse mycelium?

No – unfortunately, reusing mushroom substrate forever is not an option. The organic materials will eventually break down to a point where they will become unusable for a new flush of mushrooms. There simply won’t be enough nutrients or energy for the mycelium to absorb.

Does mycelium need darkness?

The light is not necessary. Mycelium grows well in dark conditions. In commercial growing it is due to the cost cut. The light is mandatory for primordium formation and fruit boddies development.

How many ml of spores do I need?

We recommend to use about 10 -‐ 20 ml – that is 1 -‐ 2 syringes -‐ for small bags (2,5 L content). For larger bags (4,5 L content) we recommend to use 20 -‐ 30 ml spore solution – that is 2 -‐ 3 spore syringes.

Can you use too much spore solution?

There is also the issue of possibly throwing off the water content in your jar(too wet) by injecting in too much solution. P.F. has commented in the past that his slower colonizing jars(low spore count innoculations) seem to fruit a lot better.

How many syringes of spores do I need?

Shake the syringe to dispense the spores equally. Now put the needle into the bag (at the disinfected area, always above substrate level) and push the spore solution of the same species into the bag. We recommend to use about 10 – 20 ml – that is 1 – 2 syringes – for small bags (2,5 L content).

What temperature do you inoculate mushroom jars?

Once each jar is inoculated, it is ready for incubation. There is no need to put tape over the holes in the lid, because the dry vermiculite will keep out any contaminants. Now the jars are incubated at about 77-85 degrees F for several weeks.

How do you know when a jar is fully colonized?

Check on your bin daily to watch it colonize. You’ll see white spots start to expand from each point of grain spawn. Over time they will completely cover the surface of the bulk substrate.

How many cc are in a spawn bag?

We rec- ommend a total of 3-5 cc’s of spores per spawn bag. ⇒ Make sure you inject in multiple locations to help spread your spore solution around. ⇒ Unroll the spawn bag and make sure the filter patch is upright. Slowly pull the two sides apart and be careful not touch the white filter.

Can you add spores to liquid culture?

Simply inject 3-5 cc’s of your favorite spores in the culture jar and watch it transform into liquid mycelium. In a few days it will be ready to inject into any substrate jar or spawn bag. It will cut down your colonization times by over a week!

What is the difference between liquid culture and spore syringe?

A multistrain liquid culture is equivalent to a spore syringe. To me, they are the same thing. They both provide random results. The only differences between these two are corn syrup and somebody spent way too much time making one of them.

how many cc per jar mushroom

• Article author: midwestgrowkits.com
• Reviews from users: 47355 Ratings
• Top rated: 3.4
• Lowest rated: 1
• Summary of article content: Articles about how many cc per jar mushroom Updating …
• Most searched keywords: Whether you are looking for how many cc per jar mushroom Updating
• Table of Contents:

Read More

Quart jars…how many cc’s per jar? – Mushroom Cultivation – Shroomery Message Board

• Article author: www.shroomery.org
• Reviews from users: 24714 Ratings
• Top rated: 4.3
• Lowest rated: 1
• Summary of article content: Articles about Quart jars…how many cc’s per jar? – Mushroom Cultivation – Shroomery Message Board yes perfect. 1 cc per jar. 10 cc syringe. —————– … …
• Most searched keywords: Whether you are looking for Quart jars…how many cc’s per jar? – Mushroom Cultivation – Shroomery Message Board yes perfect. 1 cc per jar. 10 cc syringe. —————– … I plan on innoculating quart-size jars filled with rye…how many ccs should I inject into each jar? Could 1 syringe be used for 10 jars?
• Table of Contents:

Read More

The PF Tek

• Article author: www.sporelab.com
• Reviews from users: 10699 Ratings
• Top rated: 3.6
• Lowest rated: 1
• Summary of article content: Articles about The PF Tek Updating …
• Most searched keywords: Whether you are looking for The PF Tek Updating
• Table of Contents:

Read More

Questions & Answers

• Article author: www.midwestgrowkits.com
• Reviews from users: 4540 Ratings
• Top rated: 3.4
• Lowest rated: 1
• Summary of article content: Articles about Questions & Answers Updating …
• Most searched keywords: Whether you are looking for Questions & Answers Updating Questions & Answers, , Questions & Answers
• Table of Contents:

Read More

How to inoculate your grain jars with spores. – YouTube

• Article author: www.youtube.com
• Reviews from users: 17485 Ratings
• Top rated: 4.8
• Lowest rated: 1
• Summary of article content: Articles about How to inoculate your grain jars with spores. – YouTube Updating …
• Most searched keywords: Whether you are looking for How to inoculate your grain jars with spores. – YouTube Updating We tell you exactly what you’ll need to inject your spores into grain jars to make mushroom spawn. You’ll learn proper protocols, the material you’ll need, t…video, chia sẻ, điện thoại có máy ảnh, điện thoại quay video, miễn phí, tải lên
• Table of Contents:

Read More

Error 403 (Forbidden)

• Article author: www.quora.com
• Reviews from users: 6634 Ratings
• Top rated: 4.6
• Lowest rated: 1
• Summary of article content: Articles about Error 403 (Forbidden) The standard is 1cc per jar, so ten jars. … How many cc is a 10 ml syringe? … these spores are produced in the fruiting bodies we know as mushrooms. …
• Most searched keywords: Whether you are looking for Error 403 (Forbidden) The standard is 1cc per jar, so ten jars. … How many cc is a 10 ml syringe? … these spores are produced in the fruiting bodies we know as mushrooms.
• Table of Contents:

Read More

The PF Tek

• Article author: www.sporelab.com
• Reviews from users: 3965 Ratings
• Top rated: 3.6
• Lowest rated: 1
• Summary of article content: Articles about The PF Tek In between each hole inoculation, shake the syringe a little to keep the spores distributed. Use 1 cc per jar. This will allow the syringe to inoculate 10 jars. …
• Most searched keywords: Whether you are looking for The PF Tek In between each hole inoculation, shake the syringe a little to keep the spores distributed. Use 1 cc per jar. This will allow the syringe to inoculate 10 jars.
• Table of Contents:

Read More

1 syringe = how many jars? – Fungi: Magic Mushrooms – Mycotopia

• Article author: mycotopia.net
• Reviews from users: 23073 Ratings
• Top rated: 3.7
• Lowest rated: 1
• Summary of article content: Articles about 1 syringe = how many jars? – Fungi: Magic Mushrooms – Mycotopia 1-2 cc per jar. More and you run the risk of making the jar too moist and germination will fail. Back to top … …
• Most searched keywords: Whether you are looking for 1 syringe = how many jars? – Fungi: Magic Mushrooms – Mycotopia 1-2 cc per jar. More and you run the risk of making the jar too moist and germination will fail. Back to top … Magic Mushroom cultivation, Magic Mushroom spores, Magic Mushroom cultivation,South American,Amazon,curandero,shaman,inebrians,cabrerana,Psychotria,rusbyana,Banisteriopsis,ayahuasca,hoasca,vine of the dead,vine of souls,DMT,ayahuasca, chacruna, caapi, yage, challiponga,huasca,mushroom, mush, psilocybin, psilocin, drugs, pedro, san pedro, psilocybe, cubensis, fanaticus, mycology, hallucinogens, mushroom spores, spores, psilocybe mushrooms, mushroom, mushrooms, spore, mushroom pictures, psil…Growing Magic Mushrooms, Mushroom spores, Ayahuasca, Magic Mushroom, Cultivation, Magic Mushroom Cultivation, Psilocybe Mushrooms, Cactis and Cannabis, including research, legislation, media coverage, bibliography and lots of links
• Table of Contents:

Read More

Innoculating Quart Grain Jars: 2 questions. | myco-tek.org

• Article author: mycotek.org
• Reviews from users: 39749 Ratings
• Top rated: 3.5
• Lowest rated: 1
• Summary of article content: Articles about Innoculating Quart Grain Jars: 2 questions. | myco-tek.org How many cc’s do you put into each jars? 1cc? 2cc? Not sure. 2. … rogue ♥ Hooked on Mycelium ♥ Moderator Mushroom Doctor Supporter. …
• Most searched keywords: Whether you are looking for Innoculating Quart Grain Jars: 2 questions. | myco-tek.org How many cc’s do you put into each jars? 1cc? 2cc? Not sure. 2. … rogue ♥ Hooked on Mycelium ♥ Moderator Mushroom Doctor Supporter. 1. How many cc’s do you put into each jars? 1cc? 2cc? Not sure.

  2. After injecting the spores, is it ok to shake them up to distribute the spores…

• Table of Contents:

Read More

Production of spore syringes – Tyroler Glückspilze

• Article author: gluckspilze.com
• Reviews from users: 43443 Ratings
• Top rated: 4.0
• Lowest rated: 1
• Summary of article content: Articles about Production of spore syringes – Tyroler Glückspilze Detailed information on the production of mushroom spore syringes. … We recommend using about 100 ml water and one spore print per jar. …
• Most searched keywords: Whether you are looking for Production of spore syringes – Tyroler Glückspilze Detailed information on the production of mushroom spore syringes. … We recommend using about 100 ml water and one spore print per jar. Detailed information on the production of mushroom spore syringes.Glücksplize, Mushroom Shop, Mushrooms Shop, mushroom cultivation, mushroom cultivation Shop, organic mushrooms, organic mushroom, organic mushroom shop, organic mushrooms shop
• Table of Contents:

Read More

See more articles in the same category here: https://chewathai27.com/toplist.

Quart jars…how many cc’s per jar?

Some of these posts are very old and might contain outdated information. You may wish to search for newer posts instead.

I plan on innoculating quart-size jars filled with rye…how many ccs should I inject into each jar? Could 1 syringe be used for 10 jars?

Extras: Top

yes perfect. 1 cc per jar. 10 cc syringe.

——————–

gonna bring her a kiss, make those blues run

Extras: Top

yeah, I concur, 1 cc, inoculate then shake the jar some to disperse spores.

Also, I’m getting ready to do my first G2G (grain to grain) transfers… taking 1/10th of a fully colonized jar and adding it to 10 different sterilized uninoculated substrate jars.

Which may interest you if you’re new to grain such as I am.

——————–

Friend- “Dude, A lot of people thought you were a snob in High School”

ME- “What? I didn’t even talk to those people”

Extras: Top

Thanks everyone. I only have 1 syringe and 12 jars, so a G2G or LC may be what I need for the last few jars.

Extras: Top

From my very limited but good experience, I will never mess with straight spores ever again. I think Lc is the best way to go period. You can knock up and endless supply of lc with only 1cc, use that to knock about endless jars, plus colonization is about twice as fast. LC is da shit

——————–

Everything I eat is from the Earth, right.

I am what I eat straight up Earth, right.

Nothing but a walking sack of Earth nice to meet you how do ya do.

Guess what. Ya you’re one too.

Extras: Top

I use 3 ccs. Also, slowly squirt a stream across the inside of the jar. If that doesn’t make sense, you wanna try and squirt the liquid across as much of the sides of the jar as possible. If you can manage, try and get the whole 3 ccs to last you until you have gone all the way around once while inside. You want as much of the circumfrence of the jar as possible to have liquid on it. This way, when the liquid begins to colonize, rather then just starting from one general inoculation point, the mycelium will start to grow from the whole side of the jar making total colonization time faster.

——————–

Extras: Top

I Use 1 CC per jar and do what he said!!^^^^^

also G2G is great, you just have to remember not to do it more than 2 generations down. you will have to eventually start over.

——————–

Hey mister… What did you do to my Rooster??

PE swabs for trade…..

Extras: Top

LightShedder, I wouldn’t agree with you… Your opinion is kinda a misleading one. First, when innocing, you are also adding water, and you need to be very particular about your moisture content in your substrates… secondly, squiring the fluid around the jar in a certain matter is more of just some OCD manner you posses… why does the way that you introduce the spoors to grain matter, when you shake it all up after innocing any ways ?

——————–

A M U

Terence McKenna Said:

“We have to create culture, don’t watch TV, don’t read magazines, don’t even listen to NPR. Create your own roadshow. The nexus of space and time where you are now is the most immediate sector of your universe, and if you’re worrying about Michael Jackson or Bill Clinton or somebody else, then you are disempowered, you’re giving it all away to icons, icons which are maintained by an electronic media so that you want to dress like X or have lips like Y. This is shit-brained, this kind of thinking. That is all cultural diversion, and what is real is you and your friends and your associations, your highs, your orgasms, your hopes, your plans, your fears. And we are told ‘no’, we’re unimportant, we’re peripheral. ‘Get a degree, get a job, get a this, get a that.’ And then you’re a player, you don’t want to even play in that game. You want to reclaim your mind and get it out of the hands of the cultural engineers who want to turn you into a half-baked moron consuming all this trash that’s being manufactured out of the bones of a dying world.”

Extras: Top

I personally like the idea of keeping the squirt perfectly in line with the holes. I have 4 inoculation holes and expect to see 4 vertical lines of mycelial growth. If I see ANY TYPE OF GROWTH outside of those 4 vertical lines I know instantly that I’m dealing with some type of contamination.

See what I mean,

Also, 3cc’s per qt really is a waste of spores. The above picture was of quart jars with a total of 1cc per jar.

The Shroomy 1

——————–

AMU Q&A thread.

Extras: Top

yea 1 cc per jar is fine

just make sure you shake the syringe to distribute the spores evenly

after inoculation shake jar to distribute the spores

let sit till 20-30% colonized then shake

let them go to 100% then give them 2-3 days after that

to make a lc you only need 2 or 3 drops theres enough spores there to get a healthy lc

make a lc that way you have more inoculate to do more jars later

-noobie-

——————–

A M U

Best Thread Ever

CapZilla said:

not sure what GE and FAE are but i should probably get some.

Citric said:

Your signature is wrong on colonization temps!

GOOD JUDGMENT COMES FROM EXPERIENCE

EXPERIENCE COMES FROM BAD JUDGMENT

ROOM TEMP 70-75 IS BEST FOR COLONIZATION

Thank you mycochef

Extras: Top

I’m not going to say that your way is wrong and I would appreciate it if you would do the same because I assure you that the tip I provided is used successfully by many people. It doesn’t throw the water content of any grain off doing what I described because 3 mls of liquid evenly shot around the hole perimeter of the jar is basically unnoticeable. LC is soooooo easy to create an ungodly amount of so why not speed things up by using a little extra? And you ask how my way makes it any faster when you shake??? Well, Ill explain it to you. If you squirt it all in one spot, or even 4 different spots, lets ay that that “spot” of mycelium takes up 2 square inches and is colonized over 100 kernels of XXX grain (just for arguments sake). Well when I spray the LC all around the jar, it will all reform and be shakeable mycelium in the same amount of time as your method but this way, approximately 12 sq inches and 600 kernels of XXX grain will be colonized and evenly distributed in the jar upon shaking. You tell me which one will be colonized quicker.

BTW use a cheap but effective SEALED still air glove box to virtually eliminate contaminations.

——————–

Edited by LightShedder (11/11/08 11:51 PM)

Extras: Top

Hey noob… if inoculating with LC, it is a bad idea to shake immediately after inoculation because it will cause the mycelium in the LC to kinda delay for a few days. I’ve experimented and found it to be faster overall if you just inoculate, wait for mycelium to form, then shake once. I don’t know if this is the same for just spore diluted liquid but as far as live mycelium (in liquid) it kinda slows things down. Now if you are inoculating your qt. jars with agar then it definitely speeds things up to shake immediately after inoculating.

Edit: I thought the OP said it was LC but it looks like he might be talking about spores.

——————–

Edited by LightShedder (11/11/08 11:52 PM)

Extras: Top

all the jars i have done with LC i just inoculated 1 cc of lc

gave them a shake then wait

usualy 10 days or less the jar is 100% colonized

then i wait 2 or 3 days after before i mix with my sub

-noobie-

——————–

A M U

Best Thread Ever

CapZilla said:

not sure what GE and FAE are but i should probably get some.

Citric said:

Your signature is wrong on colonization temps!

GOOD JUDGMENT COMES FROM EXPERIENCE

EXPERIENCE COMES FROM BAD JUDGMENT

ROOM TEMP 70-75 IS BEST FOR COLONIZATION

Thank you mycochef

Extras: Top

with lc i have QT jars 100% in 10 days or less

inject 1 cc of lc and WAIT let it colonize

then spawn to bulk

-noobie-

——————–

A M U

Best Thread Ever

CapZilla said:

not sure what GE and FAE are but i should probably get some.

Citric said:

Your signature is wrong on colonization temps!

GOOD JUDGMENT COMES FROM EXPERIENCE

EXPERIENCE COMES FROM BAD JUDGMENT

ROOM TEMP 70-75 IS BEST FOR COLONIZATION

Thank you mycochef

Extras: Top

Thats the same time I get but Id much rather not have to go back to them 3 or 4 days later to shake them. Itd be better to just shake them after inoculating for sure. Ill see how it works.

——————–

Extras: Top

Quote:

LightShedder said:

I’m not going to say that your way is wrong and I would appreciate it if you would do the same because I assure you that the tip I provided is used successfully by many people. It doesn’t throw the water content of any grain off doing what I described because 3 mls of liquid evenly shot around the hole perimeter of the jar is basically unnoticeable. LC is soooooo easy to create an ungodly amount of so why not speed things up by using a little extra? And you ask how my way makes it any faster when you shake??? Well, Ill explain it to you. If you squirt it all in one spot, or even 4 different spots, lets ay that that “spot” of mycelium takes up 2 square inches and is colonized over 100 kernels of XXX grain (just for arguments sake). Well when I spray the LC all around the jar, it will all reform and be shakeable mycelium in the same amount of time as your method but this way, approximately 12 sq inches and 600 kernels of XXX grain will be colonized and evenly distributed in the jar upon shaking. You tell me which one will be colonized quicker.

BTW use a cheap but effective SEALED still air glove box to virtually eliminate contaminations.

Was that meant for me?

——————–

AMU Q&A thread.

Extras: Top

i just eat shrooms then poop in big jars. It works if you eat nothing but whole grain for a few weeks.

——————–

How to talk to cops

Extras: Top

How To Inoculate Grain Jars and Make Any Grain Spawn You Want

One of the first steps to growing mushrooms from scratch involves making your own grain spawn. Luckily the process of inoculating grain jars is pretty simple! Once you have a viable mushroom culture ready to go, either grown out on agar or in liquid culture form, you can go ahead and add it to sterilized grain. Over the next week or so, the mushroom mycelium will work its way through the grain, eagerly devouring the nutrition and moisture held within the grains. Once the grain is fully colonized (meaning the mycelium has completely covered the grain) you can either make more spawn with a grain to grain transfer, or you can add it to a bulk substrate to grow mushrooms right away. So, let’s look at the steps and materials needed to inoculate sterilized grain, and make first generation grain spawn.

What do you need? A viable mushroom culture, either on agar or in a liquid culture syringe.

A jar of properly prepared sterilized grain with a breathable filter lid.

A laminar flow hood or still air box.

A scalpel or sharp knife, and a flame.

Doesn’t hurt to have gloves and rubbing alcohol.

Inoculating Grain Jars from Mycelium on Agar Step 1: Gather Your Materials In order to make first generation grain spawn, you first need to get some properly prepared and sterilized grain. It’s a bit of work, and you need some specialized equipment, but once you do it a few times, it’s not all that bad. You also need a viable mushroom culture, either on agar or in a liquid culture syringe. There are a number of reputable suppliers online where you can by cultures. Check out this article for information on how to properly transfer and store cultures.

Step 2: Set Up in a Clean Environment I like to do any contamination sensitive work in front of a laminar flow hood, in which inoculating grain spawn definitely qualifies. If you don’t have a laminar flow hood, then try and at least make a “still air box.” Wipe down your grain jar and your agar dish with alcohol, and set them in front of your hood. Loosen the lid on the top of the grain jar for easy access, but keep it closed.

Step 3: Grab some mycelium Flame sterilize your scalpel or blade until it is literally red hot. This will kill off any potential sources of contamination on the blade. Quickly cool the blade off by dipping it into the side of the agar dish. You should hear an audible sizzle. With your cooled blade, cut a piece of mycelium out of the agar dish approximately 1 cm x 1 cm, and stab it with the tip of your scalpel.

Step 4: Inoculate Remove the piece of mycelium from the agar dish and throw it into the jar. Try to keep the piece of mycelium upstream of all other materials throughout the process. You should try to have the lid of the jar open for as little time as possible. I usually like to place at least 3 pieces of mycelium into each jar. This allows for more inoculation points, and should speed up the colonization process. The faster the jar is able to colonize, the less likely it is to contaminate. Repeat steps 3-4 to add extra pieces.

TIP: If you want to improve the efficiency and further minimize the time that the jar lid is open, cut a grid in the agar dish so that you can pick up 3-4 pieces at once. Doing it this way, you only have to open the jar once, greatly reducing the chances of contamination

Step 5: Shake the Jar Shake the newly colonized grain jar in order to spread the pieces of agar throughout the dish. This is important for the same reason as inoculating with multiple pieces of agar- it increases the number and spacing of inoculation points, which speeds up colonization.

Step 6: Allow to Colonize First, don’t forget to label your jars! Especially if you are inoculating a number of different species. It’s easy to forget what is what after inoculatinon. Put your newly inoculated jars on a shelf at room temperature and away from direct sunlight. There is no need to “incubate” grain at warm temperatures in the dark, since the mycelium will grow happily in normal room temperature conditions. You should shake the jar at least once during colonization. I like to do this when the jar is about 25% colonized. Shaking the jars at this time will evenly spread out the grain, which allows for faster overall colonization. Depending on the species of mushrooms, it can take about 1-3 weeks before the jar is fully colonized. At this time you can either add it to a bulk substrate or do a grain to grain transfer to make even more spawn!

Inoculating Grain from a Syringe You can also inoculate sterilized grain from a syringe- either a liquid culture or a spore syringe. In order to do this, you first need to flame sterilize the tip of the syringe until it is red hot. Then you can quickly lift the lid of the grain jar and inject the syringe. The first bit of liquid will cool down the syringe. Usually about 1 – 2 CC’s of liquid culture is sufficient per quart sized grain jar. You can also inoculate the grain jar without even opening the lid, by simply injecting the liquid culture right though the filter on the top of the jar. This is especially effective for people who do not have access to a laminar flow hood.

First Generation Spawn When inoculating grain from pure mushroom culture on agar, we call the resulting grain “first generation spawn”. This is because it is only one step away from the original mushroom culture and still has plenty of potential growth before it starts to decline in vitality For this reason, first generation spawn isn’t typically added directly to a bulk substrate, but is instead used to make even more grain spawn. This is done by performing a grain to grain transfer, were first generation grain spawn is added to additional sterile grain in a ratio between 1:10 and 1:20. In this way, you can increase the amount of grain spawn exponentially.

A Word on Cleanliness Newly sterilized grain jars are very susceptible to contamination. This is because the grains are high in nutrition and vulnerable to a whole host of potential competitors that can easily outgrow mushrooms, such as trichoderma molds, cobweb molds and other project-ruining contaminants. For this reason, it is imperative to follow proper sterile procedure, and always be cognizant of any potential source of contamination. Especially important is to not open the jar unless in a completely sterile environment and leave it open for as little time as possible. If you are following all proper sterile procedures and still getting contaminated jars, then either the culture is contaminated or the sterilization process for the grains is not effective.

Next Stop: Mushrooms! Once you can inoculate grain jars and make your own spawn, the possibilities are endless. You can either make a ton more grain spawn, or add it to a bulk substrate to finally get some mushrooms!

The PF Tek

PSILOCYBE CUBENSIS GROWING TECHNIQUES (PF TEK)

by PSYLOCYBE FANATICUS

PF SUBSTRATE FORMULA (for half pint jar)

INOCULATION OF THE PF SUBSTRATE JARS

INCUBATION OF INOCULATED JARS

REMOVING THE FUNGUS CAKE FROM THE JAR

THE DUAL CHAMBERED TERRARIUM

HEATLESS DESICCATION (drying) OF MUSHROOMS

SPORE SYRINGE MAKING

PF SUBSTRATE FORMULA (for half pint jar)

Jars and glasses to be used with this technique are half pint capacity (8 ounces). They must have tapered sides and no shoulders, otherwise the fungus cakes won’t easily come out of the jars.

Appropriate jars; (source – super markets and hardware stores)

KERR wide mouth half pint canning jar. BALL regular mouth half pint canning jar. BALL half pint jelly jar.

NOTE: Even though the regular mouth BALL half pint and the regular mouth KERR half pint look similar, the KERR is not tapered.

1/4 cup of brown rice powder (Health food stores and co-ops)

1/2 cup of horticultural vermiculite (fine grade) (garden centers and hardware)

60 cc’s water

To make your own brown rice powder, place some regular brown rice in a small canister type coffee bean grinder and grind it to fine flakes. Freshly ground brown rice is recommended over prepackaged type. The freshness sometimes makes a big difference.

Not all vermiculite is the same. The coarseness varies quite considerably among different brands. The coarser type will hold less water than the finer type which will alter the water holding capacity. If your formulation (water content) results in a really wet or sloppy PF substrate, just use less water. Keep notes on your formulas so that you can replicate the PF substrate formula that works the best.

Prepare the canning lid by placing it with the rubber sealing edge upwards on a supporting surface and with a sharpened 3 penny nail (held with pliers), punch 4 holes inside the periphery of the rubber sealing edge.

SUBSTRATE JAR PREPARATION

Step 1. Place 1/2 cup of vermiculite into a mixing bowl. Place the brown rice powder on top of the vermiculite. Slowly add the water directly onto the brown rice powder, wetting it first. Thoroughly mix the ingredients. The mixture should feel damp and cohesive. More water (or less) can be used if experimenting to improve the fruiting. Mix Each jars substrate individually for loading to insure accurate formula rendering.

Step 2. Load the 1/2 pint jar and level the top. With one hand, cover the mouth of the jar and grasp the top. Lightly slam the bottom of the jar on your other palm a couple of times to lower the level of the mixture. Leave a 1/2 to 3/4 inch space at the top. With a tissue or your fingertip, wipe the insides of the jar down to the substrate. Fill the top of the jar with plain dry vermiculite and level it off at the top. This upper layer will protect the wet substrate from air borne contaminants. It acts as a contaminant barrier. This is a Psylocybe Fanaticus original discovery. What this dry vermiculite layer does is protect the wet substrate from airborne contaminants and also absorbs and regulates moisture transpiration and condensation.

Step 3. Place the lid on the jar with the rubberized edge up (jagged edges of the needle holes down). Screw the lid band on. Place pieces of “professional” grade masking tape (holds on during steaming) over the needle holes. This is to protect the needle holes from contaminant entry.

There are two choices with the lids during incubation – tight or loose. With a very high moisture content (good for fruiting), a tight lid can cause water to collect in the bottom of the jar. This is to be avoided. If it happens, the lid should be kept on loose during incubation. If the substrate is on the dry side, a tight lid will preserve the moisture content. It is all a matter of the balance between the water needs of the mycelium, the size of the jar, the available air space in the jar and the type of vermiculite used. Only by simple experimenting and comparison can the right balance be found for a given set of conditions. Take notes and go with what fruits the best.

Steam sterilizing PF substrate jars with regular cookware is possible because there is no grain to cook up and the substrate is airy. Other regular jars (other than canning type) or small drinking glasses (with tin foil covering) can be substituted for these canning jars. To insure similar results, make sure the jars or glasses are tapered sided with no shoulder of any kind, and that they have a 1/2 pint (8 ounce) capacity. It is important to note, that jars somewhat larger than 1/2 pint are unreliable for the PF TEK and fail easily. The low form KERR 1/2 pint canning jar is the most versatile (fits into tight spaces et).

A 3 piece vegetable steamer (pot, basket insert & lid) is perfect for this technique. Also, the stainless steel vegetable steamers that fold out and stand on the bottom of the pot are good. Anything is good as long as it keeps the jar bottoms off the pot bottom where the high temperature will crack the glass.

Step 4. Heat the pot of water to a boil. Put the jars into the pot with the lid bands loose so that the steam can penetrate the jars quickly. Turn the heat down and GENTLY steam the jars at the lowest possible boil for an hour in a TIGHTLY covered pot (gas stoves are the easiest to control). A good tight fitting pot lid is essential for successful steaming. Be careful to not overheat the jars, this dries the substrate. Drying is evidenced by o.k.spore germination and halted growth. The fungus will spread but stop at a certain point depending on how dry the PF substrate has become. Generally, any halted growth (with no contamination) is a sign of dried substrate. This is an important concept that will enable you to diagnose and easily correct any problems you might experience with drying. The remedy is to increase the water content of the PF substrate formula you are using.

The jars can sit in water but just make sure boiling water can’t slosh into the jars. After the jars have cooled, tighten the lids and store them in a cool draft free place until ready to inoculate them. Make sure that the jars are COOL to the touch before proceeding. If they are still warm, the spores can easily be killed.

INOCULATION OF THE PF SUBSTRATE JARS

Make sure the lid is tight. Shake the syringe well and remove the tape from the syringe needle guard. This shaking of the syringe is important as to redistribute the spores in the water. Take off the tape covering the needle holes. Remove the needle guard and insert the needle through the lid hole. Tilt the syringe body back towards the center of the lid with the needle tip touching the glass. This distributes the spore water down the side of the jar, giving a good inoculation down the side of the substrate cake. Inoculate a few drops down each needle hole. As you press on the syringe plunger, observe the needle tip against the inside of the glass. As soon as you see water appearing around the needle tip, release your finger pressure. In between each hole inoculation, shake the syringe a little to keep the spores distributed. Use 1 cc per jar. This will allow the syringe to inoculate 10 jars. You can actually use more spore solution per jar (speeds colonization) but then you won’t get as many jars per syringe. If the syringe needle plugs up as you insert it into the PF substrate, just draw the needle back a little and it will unplug.

If you touch the needle, flame the needle with a cigarette lighter to resterilize it and let it cool a minute. An alcohol flame is a better flame because it does not leave behind any soot on the needle. If you have spore solution left, just replace the needle guard and store the syringe for later use. Be sure and resterilize the needle immediately before re-use. Store the syringe in a dark, cool place.

INOCULATION OF PF JARS WITHOUT THE LIDS

You can inoculate the jar without using a lid with holes punched. Before you do this technique, inoculate with the punched lid first. That will show you how it works without any problems (almost fail proof).

The only precaution to observe is to disturb the dry top vermiculite layer as little as possible, especially when removing the needle after the inoculation. The underlying PF substrate must not be exposed to the air. Move any disturbed vermiculite back into place with your fingertip. If using a drinking glass or alternate container, cover the mouth with tin foil. Replace the tin foil cover after inoculation.

INCUBATION OF INOCULATED JARS

If any contaminant invaders appear, their color will be other than white. They are red, blue-green, black, or yellow (most any color). If they appear, the culture is doomed. Bacteria contamination is smellable through the dry vermiculite layer as a sour – foul odor within 2 days of inoculation and no spore germination. It is safe to remove the cap in order to detect odors. If it is contaminated, sterilize the contents of the jar with rubbing alcohol. Bacteria can be dangerous. The aroma should be hardly noticeable, a vague pleasant grainy smell at most. Just make sure that the vermiculite layer remains intact.

After the substrate turns white with the mycelium (2 or 3 weeks after inoculation), The jars are left to sit in indirect light. The mycelium will continue to infiltrate the substrate until it gets enough food to trigger the fruiting cycle. In less than a week to a few weeks after surface colonization of the cake, tiny white “pin” like structures begin to appear. This is called pinning. This is the beginning of the fruiting cycle. Soon after that, within the week, small round fungus growths appear that soon begin to turn yellow.

Lastly, “primordia” start to grow. These are tiny worm like structures with tiny dark reddish heads. These are the first mushrooms.

REMOVING THE FUNGUS CAKE FROM THE JAR

Remove the lid. With your finger tips or a clean fork, scrape away the majority of the dry top vermiculite layer. There will probably be seen some wispy mycelium here and there in the top layer. Don’t worry about this. This is a good sign showing aggressive growth. Place an old jar lid over the jar mouth and turn the jar upside down. Lightly slam the jar down on a table cushioned with a magazine. The fungus cake will slide out onto the old jar cap (BIRTHDAY). The jar cap functions as a base for the cake. When handling the fungus cake, be careful as not to squeeze and bruise it. Bruising results in a bluish mark. This fungus is resilient and can tolerate a certain amount of handling, but handle it as least as possible. The aroma is distinctly mushroomy, very pleasant.

As soon as the fungus cake comes out of the jar, daub the cake with a piece of loose tissue paper to soak up any water droplets that may have deposited on the cake as it comes out of the jar.

Some of the first mushrooms to form are “abhorts” (convoluted caps, gnarly stems and stunted growth), and ironically they are primo in magic alkaloids. They are even more powerful in magic than the stately beauties that will soon dominate the cake. The tiny “baby mushroom” abhorts are likewise good. After witnessing the growth of the fungus, you will be able to instantly recognize and harvest these abhorts. As long as they are healthy and pure, they are primo. Also, another form of mutants will manifest. These are just big blobs of fungus with little or no cap, also good for harvesting. And along with these mutants, appear the perfect specimens, the sporocarps.

TIME SCALE OF THE MUSHROOMS

Spore inoculation to spore germination – within a week, at 70 degrees fahrenheit. Spore germination to complete colonization of the cake – about 2 to 3 weeks. Colonization to fruiting cycle start – within 2 weeks. The fruiting cycle lasts about 2 weeks. The mycelium begins to turn blue and no more mushrooms form. If you thorougly clean the cake after the initial fruiting, sometimes secondary fruit bodies form, but they are usually sparse and small, if at all.

All in all the process takes from 4 – 6 weeks from spore inoculation to fruiting.

THE DUAL CHAMBERED TERRARIUM

THE AIRTIGHT AQUARIUM LID (TOP)

(For a standard 10 gallon aquarium)

24″ X 14 1/2″ outside dimensions

21 1/4″ x 12″ inside dimensions (dimensions variable).

The wooden lid frames’ inner rectangular cutout must be LARGER than the top of the aquarium. Clear polythelene plastic film is tacked to the underside (or upper side) of the frame so that the frame holds it tightly onto the aquarium top. The frame essentially hangs by the plastic film. A simpler alternative is to cover the aquarium top with saran wrap or something similar.

THE SPRAY SHIELD/CHAMBER PARTITION (shaded area)

(for a standard 10 gallon aquarium)

Use 1/8″ thick clear acrylic (plexiglass) window insulation available at most hardware stores. Have it cut around 15″ x 18″ (dimensions may vary – check the aquarium first). A tight fit is good.

The mushrooms get water from 2 sources; the substrate they grow on and the air that surrounds them. The surrounding air must be highly humidified. The fungus needs to bathe in a shroud of floating water molecules. 100% humidity is where there is the maximum number of water molecules floating amongst the air atoms. The dual chambered terrarium easily achieves these conditions.

It all starts with the spray from the hand sprayer. The first rule is to never directly spray the fungus. This initial spray is comprised of water droplets that are giant ponds of water in relation to the fine mycelial networks of the fungal threads. In culture, the droplet of water will drown the micro world of the fungal structures and thereby inhibit or contaminate growth. But the airborne molecularized water floats into the fine structures and gives the fungus humidity as needed. Molecularized water is another way of describing water that has evaborated into the air.

The spray that comes out of the spray bottle must be molecularized for the fungus. The spray shield and the primary chamber accomplish this. The primary chamber receives the initial spraying. As the spray strikes the shield, it is broken down into a finer mist which flows around the sides of the spray shield into the secondary chamber where the fungus is bathed in the fine humidity safely away from water droplets. In a matter of time, this humidity will condense out onto surfaces inside the terrarium and drip down. The spray shield is slanted and therefore acts as a drip shield and roof, so the more condensation the better.

SPRAYING PROCEDURE

First, before placing the cakes into the terrarium, spray all the inside surfaces of the terrarium, including the spray shield and lid. Insert the fungus cakes and put the spray shield and lid in place. Then, slightly lift up the lid and insert the nozzle of the water spray bottle in between the lid and the top of the aquarium and vigorously spray downwards into the middle of the shield. After about 5 seconds of spraying, immediately withdraw the sprayer nozzle and let down the lid to seal the swirling mist inside the terrarium. You can come back after a few minutes and give it another spraying if desired and a third if you are off to work and won’t be back until the evening. To maintain a high humidity try to spray at least 2 times a day, and the more the better. You can compensate for a lack of spraying during the day by spraying several times in the evening. Make sure that all the inside surfaces of the terrarium are foggy or dripping with water. This in itself helps generate humidity.

It has been seen that mushrooms will grow in a properly set up dual chambered terrarium, with only one good spraying a day – and even less than that!

Expose the terrarium to normal room light (indirect sunlight). A small low wattage flourescent plant light will make the phototropic mushrooms grow upwards. Leave it on all the time if you want.

HEATING

SYMPTOMS OF LOW HUMIDITY

Dry looking cakes (they should be fuzzy) and withering, discoloring mushrooms and primordia mean low humidity. For the best growth, the humidity has to be very high.

HEATLESS DESICCATION (drying) OF MUSHROOMS

The immature specimens are the best in quality, digestibility and chemical constituency. They are characterized as being very light in color with white stems and light colored caps. The cap will spread out after the veil breaks. Just after the veil breaks is a good time to harvest. The gills on the underside of the cap will be light in color. The mushrooms will be conical shaped and sporulation hasn’t really begun yet. These are the mushrooms that are the best for harvesting.

The easiest way to dry the fungi is to place them on a wire screen with air available to all sides. Never dry them in an oven. The heat leaches the chemical constituents and reduces their quality. Sun drying is very nice. Place the fungi on a wire screen so that air comes from all sides. Put them behind a window in direct sunlight. Dry them hard. But it has been seen by mycologists that UV exposed psilocybes lose potency. Freeze drying is the state of the art, but then freeze dryers are very expensive. Using a frost free (dehumidifying) refrigerator works but it is time consuming and then everyone doesn’t have a frost free fridge. Using an oven degrades the mushrooms power. Never use hot air dryers. The heat causes loss of valuable chemical constituents (psilocybin). Using desiccant to dry mushrooms is overall, the best drying technique.

MATERIALS NEEDED – Desiccant – Wire screen – Plastic tub or container – Plastic bag with tie off.

DESICCANT SOURCES

Anhydrous calcium sulfate (ca so4). This is sold by chemical and science supply retailers and it goes by the name “DRIERITE”. It is the universal lab desiccant. A much cheaper but equally effective anhydrous calcium sulfate can be found at some good hardware stores. Ask the salesperson for dehumidifying agents. If they have got it, they can show you where it is. It looks like kitty litter (beige colored “clay” bits). PF uses this (called “Damp Gone”). It is used to dry the air in damp places like closets etc.

Note: These products might have toxicity warnings – (don’t breathe dust or get on skin ect.). Follow those rules, but know that desiccant in an airtight box and under a screen will do nothing to the fungi except dry them. It is completely safe for this use.

What desiccant does, is absorb moisture out of the air. As the fungi transpires moisture, the moisture is immediately absorbed back into the desiccant, drying the fungi. Desiccant can be reused and lasts indefinitely. After use, the desiccant is heated, dried and stored for future use. Store it in an air tight container so that it stays dry and ready for use. Heat the desiccant in an oven as instructed by the manufacturer.

In drying a medium sized mushroom such as Psilocybe Cubensis, use a 1 inch layer of desiccant on the bottom of the container, under the mushrooms. Place the mushrooms on a wire screen and lay them on the desiccant that is in the container. Put the container with the shrooms and desiccant into a plastic bag. A garbage bag type wire tie is sufficient to close the bag. If you can find a clear plastic bag, use that so you can observe the drying process. After 24 hours, you should notice a little shriveling of the shrooms. About 4 or 5 days later, the shrooms will be dried rock hard.

Pre drying the mushrooms in the air on a wire screen works very well if your room humidity is not high. After a couple of days, the shriveling fungus can be quickly and completely dried in the desiccant box.

Mushrooms dried in this way lose hardly any chemical constituents and their truly desiccated state preserves them in their prime for months. When the stems snap when bent, the shrooms are completely desiccated and ready for storage. Store them by sealing them in plastic bags or keep them in canning jars with the rubber edged canning lid on tight.

It has been reported that Psilocybe Cubensis is a “weak” mushroom. PF and others have seen this to be not so. It all depends on how it is grown, on what medium and how it is harvested and preserved. All in all, this mushroom is the best one because it is the easiest to grow. The temperature range is wide and forgiving (60 degrees fahrenheit to sweltering – natural habitat).

Grow them on brown rice, harvest them when they are young and dry them with desiccant. When this is done, they are an entheogen of the highest order.

SPORE PRINTING AND SPORE SYRINGE PREPARATION

The mature specimens are good for spore production, but are not as good for consumption. They are characterised as becoming darker, with dark bluish colors appearing on the caps and stems. The cap upturns and reveals gills darkening a deep brown color. The mushroom will look like an umbrella that has turned up edges. On the stem can be seen the purple deposits of the dropping spores. Mature adult mushrooms release spores by the millions. In the area around the mushrooms can be seen a deepening color of purple. As the spores fall and collect they will color deep purple. This is the signal that the mushroom has matured and is now in its sporulation cycle. This is the time to take their spores.

SPORE PRINTING EQUIPMENT

KERR 1/2 PINT WIDE MOUTH (LOW FORM) CANNING JAR. (ANY SUITABLE JAR IS OK)

FINGER NAIL CUTICLE SCISSOR – (cosmetics – drug stores)

Presterilize the jar and regular metal lid (rubber edge up) in a small toaster oven at around 300 degrees fahrenheit for around a half hour. Keep the lid loose during the sterilization cycle. When the jar has cooled down, tighten the lid until it is time to use the jar for a spore print. The rubberized edge will be a bit melted, but that won’t be any problem in this technque. Note: What follows is a sterile technique. The first rule that must be allways followed is to wash your hands prior to sterile work. Hands are a prime source for bacteria and microspore contaminants. Sterilize all the work surfaces with rubbing alcohol. Minimize drafts. Try for a still air environment. Don’t breathe on your work. You can run a small home appliance style HEPA air cleaner (99.97% rated efficiency – available at drug and deparment stores) for a few hours in a closed room to clean the air before you do the work. Flame sterilize the scissors and snip off the mushroom cap. Cut the top of the stem as far up into the cap as you can so that the gills of the mushroom will sit flat on the surface of the jar bottom. With quick and sure movements, place the cap into the jar and place the lid on loosely. Pierce the top of the cap with a straight pin to pick it up and handle it. Leave the jar with a loose cap for a couple of days in a draft free area away from direct sunlight. After the print is taken, quickly and with as little air disturbance as possible, remove the jar cap and extract the mushroom cap from the jar. With a loose jar cap, let the jar sit in a draft free place to dehumidify for a few days before sealing it up (with tape) because there will be some residual moisture left behind on the spores and glass. Store the spore print jar at room temperatures in a dark place away from sunlight. Don’t store it in a refrigerator.

Psilocybe Cubensis spores begin to degrade a few months after they are taken. After approximately 1 1/2 years, spore germination will be greatly reduced or won’t occur at all. Germination is massive and quick when the spores are fresh.

MAKING A SPORE SYRINGE

Use a plastic (disposable) syringe with an 18 gauge 1 1/2 inch needle. You can blunt the needle to make it safe by simply sniping the tip of the needle with a wire cutter. You can resterilze the syringe and needle (wraped in tin foil) by boiling it for an hour.

Prepare a small bottle of sterilized water. Place the bottle and cap into the pot with a tight lid and boil for one hour. Then with a forceps or tong, get the cap loosely back on the bottle (while under the surface) and remove it. After cooling, tighten the bottle cap.

When ready, pour a little of this sterile water into the spore print jar and with a sterile knife blade, scrape the spores into the water. The water will become thick with purple specks. Swirl the water and load the syringes. Do the operation quickly and smoothly. Expose the jar opening as little as possible. Don’t breathe on it. This syringe is good for several months. The spores fare well in their watery environment.

You can improve the sterile process by using the long needle technique. With a needle hole in the lid, water and spore solution can be loaded and unloaded from the jar with little air contact. Spores can be scraped into solution through the hole in the lid with a sterilized long blunted needle or implement, improving isolation and sterility. Extra long syringe needles (heavy gauge 3 1/2 inch – science supply) have their use here. The needles have to be blunted to work correctly at scraping spores off the bottom of a jar. Blunt them with a large wire cutter and finish the tip with a file. These type of needles can be bought, but finding them is the task. If questioned by the seller on what the use will be, just tell them the truth. Mycology is OK . Try your local veterinarian or science catalog retailer. The needle techniques are very versatile and can be employed in many ways good for spore solution preparation without the usual lab setups.

So you have finished reading the how many cc per jar mushroom topic article, if you find this article useful, please share it. Thank you very much. See more: how many cc per pint jar, how much lc per quart jar, how much liquid culture per jar, how much spore syringe per jar, inoculating jars with spore syringe, prf tek, pf tek large scale, improved pf tek