Top 38 How Much Is A Moth 3141 Votes This Answer

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Contents

How fast is a moth?

The top speed achieved as of 2018 is 36.5 knots, the highest 10 second average of 35.9 knots (66.5 km/h) was recorded on 14 May 2014. This high speed is reflected in the International Moth’s RYA Portsmouth Yardstick of 570, the fastest (As of 2016) of any sailing dinghy or multihull.

What is a foiling moth?

Viewed from stern or bow, the foiling moth is a high-speed machine, clearly unlike other sailboats.

Where are the moths?

They avoid light and are most commonly found in dark locations such as basements, attics and closets. Within these locations, moths can be found in the folds of fabrics or hiding in corners.

How old are moths?

Newly discovered fossils show that moths and butterflies have been on the planet for at least 200 million years. Scientists found fossilised butterfly scales the size of a speck of dust inside ancient rock from Germany.

Are butterflies faster than moths?

The fastest butterflies in the world are the are the skippers which can fly at 37 miles per hour but on the average most butterflies fly about 5 to 12 miles per hour. The sphinx or hawk moths are the fastest flying moths in the world and can reach speeds up to 35 m.p.h.

How heavy is a Waszp?

The WASZP has the option of 2 rigs, the 6.9m rig (weigh range 40-70kgs) and the 8.2m rig (70-100kgs).

How long is a Moth boat?

The International Moth is a single handed development class boat that has its origins from 1928 when Len Morris built a hard chined scow to sail on Lake Inverloch in Victoria. Based on the old measurement system, the boat was 11ft long with an 80sq-ft sail. The craft was named “Olive” after his wife.

What does the wand do on a Moth?

The sensor wand is one of the keys to the Moth’s explosive performance. The wand is attached to the bow with a hinge and is held forward by shockcord or spring return device. A control rod attaches to this hinge and runs from the bow to the top of the main foil, where it connects to a bell- crank lever.

Can moths hurt you?

Moths are generally peaceful creatures. They do not attack or try to hurt humans and they just keep to themselves. They do not bite or sting, unlike wasps, spiders, or ants. They do cause economic damages and are certainly a nuisance to have around the house.

Do moths bite?

The vast majority of adult moths don’t have mouths and are incapable of biting anything, much less you. For the most part, they also don’t sting. However, moths begin life as larvae, called caterpillars, before they go through a metamorphosis process and emerge with wings.

Do moths poo?

Frass – the name for insect poo and which looks like clumps of small grains – will often be found near the holes in an item or on the surface beneath where it is stored. Additionally with moth infestations cocoons and webbing (silk woven over the area the lava is feeding) are sometimes left behind.

What is the fastest insect?

The Fastest Flying Insect: Dragonflies are known to travel at the speed of 35 miles an hour. Hawk Moths, which have been clocked at a speed of 33.7 miles an hour, come in second. The Heaviest Insect: A Goliath Beetle from tropical Africa, weights in at 3 1/2 ounces.

Why do moths move so fast?

“The way they’ve done this is to really exploit the wind.” With favourable winds, moths are faster than birds, Chapman says. The insects’ flight behaviour can add 4–6 metres per second on top of the push provided by the wind, allowing them to travel a distance of up to 700 kilometres during 8 hours of flight.

Do moths bite?

What’s the fastest fly in the world?

The record for fastest confirmed level flight by a bird is 111.5 km/h (69.3 mph) held by the common swift.

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2022 Moth Extermination Costs | Moth Fumigation Cost

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Most searched keywords: Whether you are looking for 2022 Moth Extermination Costs | Moth Fumigation Cost Updating The average cost to exterminate moths is about $150 (Pantry fumigation of moths using chemicals or heat treatment). Find here detailed information about moth extermination costs.
Table of Contents:

In this guide

Moth Extermination Cost by Project Range

Moth Treatment Cost per SqFt

Moth Extermination Costs by Method

Moth Extermination Cost by Frequency

Average Cost of Moth Extermination by Level of Infestation

Moth Treatment Cost by Type

Average Cost of Moth Treatment by Location

All About Moths

Signs of a Moth Infestation

How to Prevent Moths in the House

Where Do Moths Lay Eggs

Are Moths Dangerous

Moth Damage

Moths vs Butterflies

Additional Considerations and Costs

FAQs

References

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2022 Moth Extermination Costs | Moth Fumigation Cost

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Table of Contents:

Contents

Types[edit]

History[edit]

Moth firsts[edit]

Events[edit]

2022 Moth Extermination Costs

The average cost to exterminate moths costs $100 to $200 . The average homeowner spends around $150 on a professional fumigation treatment of a kitchen or pantry for moth extermination using chemicals or heat treatment. The lowest anticipated cost with the use of parasitic wasps is $90 to treat a small infestation. At the high end of the spectrum, some homeowners spend as much as $500 on the treatment of a 1,500 sq.ft. home with a serious infestation.

Moth infestations are not only a nuisance but can cost a homeowner a large amount of money. When moths are left unchecked, they can destroy hundreds to thousands of dollars worth of clothing, furniture, carpeting, and more. The pests also contaminate food items and can create a lot of food waste. Early pest control interventions can stop moths from multiplying inside the home, which is why most people will enlist the help of a professional to exterminate moths.

Moth Treatment Cost per Sq.Ft.

Although most treatments are classified as a single contract, some exterminators also charge a sq.ft. rate for moth treatment and removal. The cost ranges from $0.10 to $0.25 per sq.ft. In some cases, exterminators only charge per sq.ft. when the space is larger than 1,000 sq.ft. They may charge smaller areas than that at a flat cost. In the table below, you will see the costs of getting moth treatment for various sizes of homes or rooms.

Size of Room/Home Cost per Visit 500 sq.ft. $100 – $200 1,000 sq.ft. $100 – $250 1,500 sq.ft. $150 – $375 2,000 sq.ft. $200 – $500 2,500 sq.ft. $250 – $625

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Moth Extermination Costs by Method

You will spend between $90 and $350 for simple moth extermination based on the method chosen. If the space is over 1,500 sq.ft. or the infestation is severe, your costs may vary. Usually, a moth exterminator evaluates the situation before determining the best treatment. They do this based on the size of the infestation and the location of the moths. Chemical treatment and fumigation are the most popular. Parasitic wasps are cheap; however, they may not provide a straightforward solution. In the table and sections below, you will see more information about each method and its costs.

Method Cost (per Treatment) Parasitic Wasps $90 – $100 Chemical Treatment $100 – $250 Heat Treatment $120 – $300 Fumigation $150 – $350

Parasitic Wasps for Moth Control

Treatment with Trichogramma wasps averages $90 to $100 per treatment or visit. A certain species of wasps called Trichogramma are used to remove moths from a property. Trichogramma wasps are small, with approximately half a dozen of the parasites able to fit on a pin. The wasps target the eggs of moths by laying their own eggs and preventing the pests from hatching into caterpillars. Since the parasitic wasps interrupt the life cycle of the moth, the method is highly effective. This can be dangerous in some cases because you are releasing another pest into your home and will then need to make sure that the wasps are properly and fully removed from the home. This process is unique in that cards or containers with the Trichogramma eggs are placed throughout the home. Within three to ten days, the wasps emerge and do their job of eliminating the infestation by interrupting the lifecycle of clothes moths and other species. These creatures are not dangerous to humans or pets. Many exterminators tell you that you can resume normal activities once the eggs are in place. These wasps only live for about 14 days after emergence and are small enough that four or five fit on the head of a pin. A follow-up appointment may be required four to six weeks after releasing the wasps to confirm the removal of moths from the area.

Moth Chemical Treatment

Expect to pay around $100 to $250 for a single pesticide treatment in a standard-size yard. Outdoor pesticides are an option for those who need to remove moths from their lawns or crops. With a professional application, the contractor sprays the pesticide over the infested area of your yard. Chemical agents such as esfenvalerate or bifenthrin are often used to target outdoor moths. Chemical treatments designed for outdoor use should not be used indoors. Be sure to discuss the location of your infestation to determine the best treatment method.

Moth Heat Treatment Cost

Expect to pay $120 to $300 when heat treatments are used for moth extermination. Heat treatment for moths works similar to the heat extermination methods used for bed bugs. To get rid of moths, technicians expose the pests to a minimum of 120 degrees Fahrenheit for 30 minutes. However, to confirm all moths and their eggs are eliminated, pest control specialists usually apply the treatment for at least an hour. These high temperatures kill the moths. The process is usually done without the homeowners present. Fortunately, this usually only takes a few hours, so homeowners will not be displaced for long.

Moth Fumigation Cost

The average cost for fumigation is $150 to $350. Moth fumigation is another method offered by professional exterminators. The technicians ask all residents to leave the home for at least a few hours while powerful pesticides are used to kill moths, larvae, and eggs. Some infestations may require homeowners to stay away for a day or longer. Fumigations are very effective since the pesticides penetrate hard-to-reach areas such as carpets, closets, drawers, and small crevices within the walls. Pest specialists instruct residents regarding which items are safe to leave in the home before treatment.

Moth Extermination Cost by Frequency

The cost of moth extermination based on the frequency of treatment ranges from $100 to $500, depending on the terms and contract you choose. Many people opt for a one-time visit, which is the price used to calculate the costs in this guide. However, many exterminators and pest control services offer monthly, yearly, and even quarterly service contracts to eliminate pests and provide preventive treatment to keep them from coming back. Discuss this with your pest control provider because choosing a contract may be more cost-effective than a single visit. In the table below, you will see a breakdown of the costs of each type of contract.

Frequency Cost per Year (1.500 Sq.Ft. House) Yearly Contract $100 – $500 One-Time Visit $200 – $300 Quarterly Contract $250 – $350 Monthly Contract $250 – $500

Average Cost of Moth Extermination by Level of Infestation

Depending on the size of your infestation, you will spend between $90 and $500 to eradicate moths. Most experts help you determine the level of your infestation to see just how much it costs ahead of time so that you are prepared. Typically, the larger the infestation, the more you pay for removal. However, the costs could also be determined by where the moths are in relation to their severity. For example, it may be relatively inexpensive to get rid of a small infestation of pantry moths. Yet, you may spend more to get rid of a large infestation of yard moths or those that have infiltrated the entirety of your home. The table below shows a breakdown of the costs based on how severe the infestation is.

Level of Infestation Average Cost (per Treatment) Small $90 – $100 Medium $100 – $200 Large $200 – $400 Severe $400 – $500

Moth Treatment Cost by Type

Most people spend between $90 and $300 to remove moths based on their type or classification. Fumigation costs vary based on the type of moth targeted by the pest control specialist. For instance, you would not eliminate pantry moths using the same products as clothes moths. Therefore, it is important to identify the infestation to quote a treatment price accurately. The following are common species of moths and the average cost to remove them from a residence.

Moth Type Cost of Removal (per Treatment) Lawn $90 – $130 House $100 – $150 Winter $100 – $150 Gypsy $100 – $150 Codling $100 – $150 Oriental Fruit $100 – $150 Potato Tuber $100 – $150 Pantry $150 – $200 Carpet $150 – $200 Boxwood $150 – $200 Clothes $150 – $250 Rice $150 – $250 Wax $175 – $300

Lawn Moth Treatment

The cost to treat a standard-size lawn is around $90 to $130. Lawn moths are a type of outdoor moth with larvae that feed on grass leaves. The moths are hard to spot since they are usually most active at dusk and during the evening hours. However, you will usually notice them if your grass has random brown spots or starts dying. If you are out at dusk, you may notice the actual moths on your lawn. A few may not be problematic, but if they are taking over, it may be time to seek professional extermination assistance.

House Moth Treatment

Parasitic wasps, heat treatment, and fumigation may be considered for house moth control at a cost from $100 to $150. The house moth, also known as the brown moth, is native to Asia and is linked to causing significant interior and exterior damage to a residence. House moths produce larvae with voracious appetites. They feed on clothing and pantry food items. House moths are common. Although they can cause a lot of damage if left unchecked, they are typically fairly easy to eliminate.

Winter Moth Control

The treatment of winter moths costs around $100 to $150. Winter moths are a rare moth species with high activity during the fall and winter months. During the winter months, they tend to feed on trees and shrubs outdoors and damage your landscaping. This species is fairly simple to eradicate, usually involving treatment of the trees and/or yards that they inhabit. These are typically considered an outdoor extermination, which relies on chemical treatments or organic control using various bacteria.

Gypsy Moth Control

Gypsy moths are typically treated during the spring months with an insecticide at an average cost of $100 to $150 per application. The gypsy moth has become a major invasive species in the United States and is linked to the destruction of many trees each year. The chemical treatment of gypsy moth infested areas is the only proven effective method to remove the pests. If you have this kind of problem in your yard, you will want to call a professional as soon as possible.

Codling Moth Control

For a standard application of insecticides to remove the codling moth, the cost is around $100 to $150. Large treatment areas are subject to a higher cost. Codling moths are an outdoor pest that poses a threat to agricultural crops. The bugs prefer fruit crops and feast on apples, pears, and other fruit-bearing trees. If you have a farm or orchard, you may discover issues with these moths in your crops and need to seek professional intervention before they cause irreparable damage and a loss of your profits.

Oriental Fruit Moth Control

The cost to exterminate oriental fruit moths in small treatment areas is between $100 and $150. The oriental fruit moth is a type of pest originating from Asia. The pest is now found in regions around the United States that grow fruit. The larvae consume the fruit and can damage the crops. Again, those with orchards or farms typically encounter these moths. The good news is that they are relatively easy to eradicate with chemical fumigation and other treatments.

Potato Tuber Moth Control

For potato tuber moth control in a small area, expect to pay around $100 to $150 for pesticide applications. Potato tuber moth control is very important for those who grow potato crops. Besides potatoes, the pest also feeds on crops such as tomatoes and eggplants. Some people find potato tuber moths already in potatoes in their homes. At which point, it may become necessary to treat the entire home for moth removal. Typically, though, these are outdoor pests that can be eradicated by chemical or organic fumigation.

Pantry Moth Extermination Cost

On average, pantry moth extermination costs between $150 and $200. Pantry moths also are called Indian meal moths or grain moths. Pantry moths tend to nest in cabinets within a kitchen that offers a convenient food source. Pantry moths extermination is challenging for pest control specialists. The larvae of pantry moths can survive months without food, making them difficult to remove. Fumigation methods can be used on pantry moths, but all food may need to be thrown out prior to treatment. Therefore, you could actually spend more on the cost of this treatment because of all the food that needs replacing.

Carpet Moth Treatment

Carpet moth extermination ranges between $150 and $200 for single room treatment. Multiple carpets increase the cost of carpet moth infestation treatment. Most homeowners that have carpet moths first notice the damage, such as holes in their flooring. Pest control technicians are likely to use heat treatments or fumigation products to get rid of carpet moths. If the infestation is severe or the carpet is old and needs to be replaced, some professionals might suggest carpet replacement or repair instead of or along with treatment.

Boxwood Moth Treatment

The average cost of boxwood moth control for a small area is $150 to $200. The boxwood moth is an outdoor pest with caterpillars that feed on the leaves and bark of boxwood trees. For boxwood moth treatment, you need a professional to apply a pesticide that eliminates the caterpillars of the moth without damaging the tree. This pest is stubborn and mostly found in the spring months. It can become an infestation quickly if you do not treat the issue, causing tree damage and perhaps even the need for tree removal.

Clothes Moth Treatment

Whole-room fumigation is typically needed to remove clothes moths from a property with an average cost range of $150 to $250. Clothes moths are year-round pests with larvae that feed on clothing fibers. A sub-species of the clothes moth, the webbing clothes moth, will be eliminated from the residence in the same manner. Webbing clothes moths are the most common type of clothes moth located in the United States. Bear in mind that you may also incur the cost of replacing any clothing damaged by these pests, which adds to the expense.

Rice Moth Control

The cost of fumigation treatments used for rice moth control ranges from $150 to $250. Rice moths are small pests that earn their name due to their preference for dried pantry goods such as rice and cereals. Caterpillars normally feed on these items as they invade a homeowner’s kitchen. In addition to eliminating the infestation, you must throw out any contaminated food and replace groceries once the problem has been completely resolved. These moths are common but a little more difficult to eradicate because of their invasion methods.

Wax Moth Treatment

Wax moth treatment will usually cost around $175 to $300. Wax moths are primarily outdoor pests that target beehives. The moth can be a headache for beekeepers. If a colony is thriving within the beehive, wax moths can sometimes get eliminated naturally. If you struggle with wax moths in your yard or are a beekeeper that has discovered an issue with these moths, contact a pest control expert right away to have them eradicated.

Average Cost of Moth Treatment by Location

You will spend between $100 and $500 to eradicate moths based on the treatment location. Accessibility can become an issue for pest control specialists. Moths in hard-to-reach areas may require multiple visits by the technician to confirm moths are eliminated from the home. Pest control specialists may recommend monthly follow-up treatments until adult moths, larvae, and eggs are removed. In addition, it is cheaper to remove moths outdoors and in small spaces that are easily accessible. Moths in the walls or an entire house infestation could be much more expensive because of the extra work involved.

Location Treatment Cost (per Treatment) Grass $100 – $300 Bathroom $120 – $200 Closet $120 – $200 Outdoors (Other than Grass) $150 – $500 Bedroom $130 – $200 Pantry $150 – $300 Kitchen $150 -$350 Walls $200 – $400 Entire House $375 – $500

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All About Moths

Moths often have the nickname nighttime butterflies due to their similarities with butterflies. Lifespans and nesting habits are similar between the species. Moths have different lifespans depending on the species. Some moths only live a few short weeks while others can survive up to one year. They are versatile and can live in climates and areas all over the world. Some moths, like fruit moths, only reside in fruit-bearing regions.

A surprising fact is that moths outnumber butterflies substantially with estimates that there are nine times as many moths compared to butterflies. The moths are important pollinators to plants such as orchids and yucca and carry pollen from flower to flower during the evening hours. Some moths don’t have mouths because they don’t eat as adults and die a few days after emerging from their cocoons.

Signs of a Moth Infestation

Moth infestations can be frustrating when you notice the pests in your home. Moths can cause substantial damage in a short time. It is essential to look for the early signs of a moth infestation. Besides visible moths, caterpillars, or moth eggs, you may also find signs that moths are infiltrating your home. For example, some people have identified damage in clothing or furniture before seeing a single moth. Other signs include dying or brown grass and crop damage for outdoor infestations, and carpet holes, silk-like tunnels on clothing or furniture with indoor infestations. If you notice any of these signs, you should call a pest control professional right away.

How to Prevent Moths in the House

Like most pests, you can help prevent moths in the house by keeping the kitchen tidy. Never leave food items out and always store dry pantry goods in airtight containers. Wipe down the interior of cabinets often to remove any food crumbs.

Never store old boxes in the home. If you store seasonal clothing items in boxes, make sure the containers are sealed tightly using packing tape. Plastic bins are preferable for clothing storage. Mothballs may be used to protect clothing from pests, but they do have a pungent odor. Certain essential oils can act as a deterrent to moths such as lavender, peppercorn, rosemary, and mint.

Where Do Moths Lay Eggs?

Moths lay up to 50 eggs that measure about the size of a pin. The eggs are laid over a period of four days up to three weeks. The moths lay eggs in clothing fibers, carpets, food items, lawns, and trees. Moths prefer laying their eggs on the bark of trees in the winter. In the spring, the eggs hatch, and the larvae have immediate access to a reliable food source. Clothes moths don’t consume fabrics but lay their eggs on clothing and carpets to provide their larvae with sustenance.

Are Moths Dangerous?

Moths pose very little danger, but they can contaminate food sources. The biggest threat is if a human accidentally eats moth eggs or larvae. Some species can cause a person to become seriously ill if consumed. This is rare and only occurs with moths that have visible hairs and spines, according to Healthline. According to the National Library of Medicine, certain moth caterpillars are linked to causing severe allergic and asthmatic reactions in humans. The reaction is linked to the tiny hairs found on the caterpillar’s body. Moths rarely bite, but certain larvae have been known to attack humans. For instance, bites from the Lonomia have been linked to human fatalities.

Moth Damage

Moth damage is usually minimal if the pests are caught early on. Most damage relates to moths in clothing pieces. The larvae will munch through the fibers and leave moth holes in shirts. Replacing clothing pieces damaged by moths can be costly, depending on how much the clothing cost originally.

Moths damage the carpet when their hatched larvae consume the fibers. If the moths damage your carpet, replacement may be needed. On average, you may spend around $150 to $300 for carpet repair. Moth lawn damage could also become an issue after an infestation of grass-eating larvae. Lawns may need seeding to stimulate growth. Furthermore, new crops may need to be replaced if the moths targeted any of your plantings. Lawn seeding could cost $700 to $2,000, depending on the size of the lawn and materials chosen.

Moths vs Butterflies

The difference between moths and butterflies begins with their appearances. Butterflies have more vibrant colors, while most moths are brown or gray. Butterflies rest with their wings open, but moths rest with the wings closed. The antennae of a moth have a feather-like appearance while butterflies have long and thin antennae. Butterflies are most active during the daytime, and moths come out mostly at night. Moths are affected by light sources, while butterflies don’t congregate near artificial light sources. Also, the type of cocoon spun is different between moths and butterflies. Moths create silken cocoons with a delicate appearance. Butterflies form hardened pupa to make their metamorphosis.

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Additional Considerations and Costs Licenses . Only use pest control specialists with licensed technicians. These technicians are approved to use commercial-grade pest control products.

. Only use pest control specialists with licensed technicians. These technicians are approved to use commercial-grade pest control products. DIY . Over-the-counter traps don’t target the underlying issue causing the greatest infestation. The traps only catch live bugs and not the larvae and eggs to stop the life cycle.

. Over-the-counter traps don’t target the underlying issue causing the greatest infestation. The traps only catch live bugs and not the larvae and eggs to stop the life cycle. Cedar cabinetry . The oils of the woods in cedar cabinets and chests can act as a deterrent against clothes moths. However, the oils only kill larvae and not the adult moths or eggs. Most people still require a pest control professional to control an infestation.

. The oils of the woods in cedar cabinets and chests can act as a deterrent against clothes moths. However, the oils only kill larvae and not the adult moths or eggs. Most people still require a pest control professional to control an infestation. Travel fees. If you live out of the company’s service area, an extra fee will be assessed. Some pest control companies charge $1 to $3 for every mile outside of their standard service area.

FAQs What causes moths in the house? Moths are attracted to certain factors in a home or yard. Pantry moths will usually enter a home by infesting cereals, grains, and other dried goods. Pantry and other types of kitchen moths can also enter a home by hiding inside grocery bags. Once inside the home, the pests multiply, and the infestation grows. Moths may also get inside the home through an open window. Homes that have entrances with porch lights or spotlights could attract moths. Artificial lighting is an attractant to moths with the pests gathering around the light sources. How to identify a moth? Identifying moths is usually not difficult. Most have a brown, gray, or reddish color. The house pests most people know are small in size. Their wingspans measure less than an inch, although some are larger. Regardless of their size, they invade specific areas of a residence, traditionally closets, kitchens, and pantries. These nocturnal creatures may not be obvious during the day. Their eggs usually have a cream-colored appearance that hatch into white, fuzzy caterpillars. Most species grow up to have feathery antennae and delicate scales that fall off if touched. How do you get rid of a moth infestation? The easiest and most effective way to get rid of a moth infestation is to call a pest control professional. They will know which is the best method to exterminate them and eliminate the problem. How do you know if you have a moth infestation? Live bugs can be a simple sign of a new moth infestation. Any unexplained damage to clothing items, furniture, and your carpet could indicate moths have entered the house. How long do moths live in a house? Most only live for a few weeks, but some species have a lifespan of up to 12 months.

Moth (dinghy)

Small development class sailing dinghy

The Moth is a small development class of sailing dinghy. Originally a small, fast home-built sailing boat designed to plane, since 2000 it has become an expensive and largely commercially-produced boat designed to hydroplane on foils though many are still built at home, typically at much lower cost.

The pre-hydrofoil design Moths are still sailed and raced, but are far slower than their foiled counterparts.

Types [ edit ]
There have been several types of Moth since the first use of the class name in the 1920s:

The Classic Moth, a traditional dinghy with tighter design restrictions

The British Moth, designed in 1932 and revived in 2004

The Restricted Moth of the 1960s and 70s, with few design restrictions to allow for class development (International Moth in Australia and New Zealand)

The Europa Moth, which became the Olympic Europe dinghy

The New Zealand Mark 2 scow Moth, abundant in the 1970s

The International Moth, a fast sailing hydrofoil dinghy with few design restrictions.

History [ edit ]
Beginnings [ edit ]
The current International Moth is a result of merging two separate but similar historical developments. The first occurred in Australia in 1928 when Len Morris built a cat rigged (single sail) flat bottomed scow (horizontal bow rather than the “normal” vertical bow) to sail on Andersons’ Inlet at Inverloch, a seaside resort 130 kilometres (81 mi) from Melbourne. The scow was hard chined, 11 feet (3.4 m) long, with a single 80 square feet (7.4 m2) mainsail. The craft was named “Olive” after his wife. The construction was timber with an internal construction somewhat like Hargreave’s box kite. “Olive’s” performance was so outstanding, that a similar boat “Whoopee” was built. Len Morris then sold “Olive”, and built another boat called “Flutterby”, and with those three boats, the Inverloch Yacht Club was formed. Restrictions for the class known as the Inverloch Eleven Footer class were then drawn up, with the distinguishing characteristic that of being not a one-design boat but rather that of a boat permitting development within the set of design parameters.

At much the same time, 1929 in fact, halfway around the world another development class, the American Moth Boat was started by Captain Joel Van Sant and Ernest J. Sanders [1] of Elizabeth City, North Carolina[2] with the boat “Jumping Juniper” built of Atlantic White Cedar from the Great Dismal Swamp. The major difference between the Australian and American boats early on was that the American boat used only 72 square feet (6.7 m2) of sail on a somewhat shorter mast. The US development class was formally organized in 1932 as the “National Moth Boat Association” and in 1935, due to increasing overseas interest, changed its name to the “International Moth Class Association” or IMCA.

In 1933, an American magazine, The Rudder, published an article dealing with the Moth Boat scene in the US. The Australians noted the similarities between the two groups of boats and intuitively realized that the name “Moth Boat” rolled more easily from the tongue than “Inverlock Eleven Footer Class”, and changed the name of their class to Moth. The Australians also noted the differences, particularly in sail plan between the two boats, but since this was in the middle of the great depression, and the two groups were 13,000 miles apart, no attempt was made to reconcile these differences. Thus two large Moth classes developed separately for over 30 years.

Early growth [ edit ]
The British Moth Class dates to the early 1930s. The class was restricted to a particular hull shape of a 1930s Vintage American Moth Boat, and is thus a one-design boat, not a development class which allows experimental development with shapes and materials.

The Victorian Moth Class Association was formed in Australia in 1936. After WWII, the NSW Moth Class Sailing Association was formed, with foundation members coming from Seaforth Moth Club and Woolahra Sailing Club. all other Australian states formed Moth Associations between 1956 to 1961. The Australian Yachting Federation (AYF) recognized the Australian Moth class as a national class in 1962, the first small boat class in Australia to be granted national status. Australian Moths were using pre-bent and wing masts in the 1950s. In the 1960s, Australian Moth sailors campaigned for rules changes that would permit the Australian Moths to compete in the IMCA’s “World Championships”.[citation needed]
European interest increased after the second world war. The European Moth clubs subscribed, more or less, to the US class rules. One European Moth design from the early 1960s, the “Europa Moth”, broke away from the IMCA and formed the one-design Europe dinghy class. It was adopted as the woman’s single-hander used in the Olympic games from 1992-2004.[citation needed]
International Moth Class [ edit ]
In 1971 the US-based IMCA completed a phase-in of new rules which attempted a “marriage” of the IMCA and the Australian Moth. This amalgamation process had started at the annual IMCA meeting in 1965. New rules embraced the larger, more powerful high aspect, loose footed, fully battened rig of the Australian Moth. The new rules also permitted controversial hiking wings first seen on Moths from Switzerland. Finally, guided by the influential UK Moth sailor and WW2 war hero, Major Tony Hibbert, the rule change abolished the US centralized organization of the class in favor of an independent world body with equal-partner national associations. Each national association elected its own officers and world body representatives. The culmination of these changes was the recognition in 1972 of the IMCA by the International Yacht Racing Union (the forerunner of today’s World Sailing) bound by the agreed upon new restrictions of the class (with metric measurement conversions) operating today. The moth class association that had originated in the US was now truly an international organization.

Being a development class, the Moth has evolved from a hull in the 1930s that could best be described as a heavy, narrow scow or a blunt nosed skiff, (weighing about 50 kg) to today’s remarkable foilers with hull weights of under 10 kg. Designs have run the gamut from wide skiffs without wings, to lightweight scows, to wedge-shaped hulls characterized with narrow waterlines and hiking wings out to the maximum permitted beam. Likewise, the sail plan has evolved from cotton sails on wooden spars, through the fully battened Dacron sails on aluminum spars, to the windsurfer inspired sleeved film sails on carbon masts seen today.

In New Zealand the class reached its maximum popularity in the late 1960s and early 70s. The NZ Moth was standardized as a 90 lb flat bottom scow type known as the Mk2 using an alloy spars and a Dacron sail. The measured sail area was nominally 80 square feet but the actual area grew to about 90 square feet by 1970. Many hundreds were home made by amateurs. In addition there were a smaller number of International Moths of both scow and skiff type. Hulls were noticeably lighter -down to 50 lbs for skiffs using plywood by 1970. The international yacht designer Bruce Farr built Moths to his own design in the 1967-1971 period when still a young school boy.

Rebirth [ edit ]
In the United States in the late 1970s participation in the International Moth class died and the class growth and interest moved to Europe and Australia. After ten years of little Moth activity in the US, several sailors started looking for old Moth Boats with the original US rig to restore and race. A newsletter was started to aid communication between like-minded Mothists. Racing of “Classic Moths” resumed in 1989 and in 1990 a new club was formed to govern racing and construction of Classic Moths. This club, the Classic Moth Boat Association or CMBA is the current governing body for the original US type of Moth Boat. The intent of the CMBA is to revive the original US version of the boat and update the rules so that development is permitted without allowing the boats to become too freakish. The IMCA rules from 1965, the final year prior to the phase-in of the Australian rig and wings were consulted as a starting point for reviving the US Moth. Those rules have been revised where necessary. Interest in Classic Moths has grown internationally, with new activity in Europe, primarily France.

Moth firsts [ edit ]
The International Moth has fostered a number of achievements. In 1966-67, The King of Siam was involved in the building of three Moths and sailed them on the pond at Chitrlada Palace. The King raced for almost 20 years on his second moth called ‘Super Mod’ until his design and construction efforts were cut short by the ‘press of royal duties’.[3] In 1957 Patricia Duane became the first woman to win the moth world championship in her Cates-Florida design.[citation needed] In 1968 Marie Claude Fauroux became the first woman skipper to win a World dinghy racing title from an IYRU sanctioned international class, in her Duflos-designed moth.[citation needed] The International Moth was selected[when?] as an official training class for the Japanese Olympic sailing team, to hone their balance skills.[citation needed]
Since 2000 International Moths have begun using lifting hydrofoils on the daggerboard and rudder, which lift the entire hull and skipper above the water surface, dramatically reducing drag and increasing speed. The top speed achieved as of 2018 is 36.5 knots, the highest 10 second average of 35.9 knots[4] (66.5 km/h) was recorded on 14 May 2014. This high speed is reflected in the International Moth’s RYA Portsmouth Yardstick of 570, the fastest (As of 2016 ) of any sailing dinghy or multihull.[5]
Events [ edit ]
National Moth Boat Association (NMBA) Championship 1933-1934 [ edit ]
International Moth Class Association (IMCA) International Championship 1935-1972 [ edit ]
Competing for the Antonia Trophy from 1933-1964 and the Carling Trophy from 1965-present [ edit ]
International Moth Class Association (IMCA) World Championship 1973-present [ edit ]
See also [ edit ]

International Moth Speed Guide

North Sails RESOURCES

International Moth Speed Guide

Last Updated: August 26, 2019

August 26, 2019

Moth Dinghy expert Rob Greenhalgh introduces this extraordinary singlehanded foiling dinghy and describes the keys to sailing one fast.

Who sails the foiling Moth Dinghy?

The Moth class is for everyone—it’s so exciting, you don’t need to race it. Club sailors can get a huge buzz out of foiling, going fast around the bay, and learning to foil jibe and tack. They might enjoy it so much they never need to join a race. At the other end of the spectrum, there are sailors who have been in Moth Class for a decade or more and love the challenge of racing this exciting, complex craft

What kind of sailors enjoy this challenge?

Moths are development boats, not a strict one-design class, and that’s daunting for some. The technical and evolutionary side of Moth sailing requires a good understanding of how everything works—how the foils interact with the rig setup and how to balance both aspects. Over the last five years, there have been massive speed advancements, which will continue. To be at the top of the game, you have to enjoy the technical side.

But you can buy equipment off the shelf and, if you practice and sail well, soon be up to pace. Though more technically oriented sailors often gain an edge for a while, there are also lots of people who will make changes that don’t help them, so it evens out.

How physical is the sailing?

When you are first getting into it, Moth sailing seems physically hard, but once you’ve done it a while, it’s not too bad. On a windy day with a lot of capsizing, it gets pretty tiring. But it’s a light boat, and the loads are not high. Anyone can do it if you can move quickly at times. There are plenty of Moth sailors in their 60s.

New boats or used, which are better?

My advice for the first-time or second-time buyer is to look for a good second-hand boat that you know will fly. This saves you a lot of effort, because even experienced Moth sailors need a few months to work up a new boat. Sure, it’s always a worry that you might not be getting good enough kit with a used boat, but in my experience, any modern Moth can be made fast. If you want to buy new, a standard boat from either of the two main builders—Exocet by Maguire Boats, or Mach 2 by MacDougall McConaghy—will quick enough for top 5. You can also have a look at the new Bieker Moth by LSF Composites.

The Moth is a development class. What’s happening lately?

At the top end of the class, mast lengths are getting shorter to lower the rig’s center of effort and improve performance. A shorter luff length results in a longer boom length. Rigs have progressively become lower over the last five years, and mast lengths have reduced from 5270mm or 5300mm to the current standard of 5100mm.

What sails do you recommend?

North offers four different sails that meet the Moth sail-area limit of 8.25 square meters. (For more detail, read Four New 3Di Sails for Moth Sailors.)

The choice of sails relates to your weight, expected wind speed, and another ongoing development in the class—deck-sweeping sails. Because of the class sail-area limitation, in 14 knots of wind we are always trying to shed horsepower and reduce aero-drag. The deck-sweeper sail is better at that, cleaning up areas of drag around the front of the mast, the boom, and the deck area.

If you weigh less than 75kg, you can use the deck-sweeper the whole time. If you’re heavier, like me, in breeze less than 10 knots you’ll need the all-purpose sail’s extra horsepower to get up and foil. The deck-sweeper sail has less horsepower because its center of effort is lower and its shape is not quite as good in those low areas around the mast, boom and deck.

Which sails do you use?

I use the North Vi 8LA 3Di and Vi-8 DS 3Di, as both fit my mast length of 5100mm. They can be used on both the Mach2 and Exocet.

How does foil choice affect sail choice?

Moths have two foils, a larger foil for lighter winds and a smaller foil for stronger, and that’s a choice you have to make on the beach. In my case, if I expect to be on my foils all day, I’ll choose the smaller foil and the deck-sweeper sail. If the winds are lighter or less reliable, I will often choose the big foil and the LA sail. And if I expect light air to start but a building breeze all day, I’ll likely choose the big foil with the deck-sweeper sail.

Tuning the Moth Dinghy

What are the keys to tuning a Moth?

Generally speaking, you should set up your boat to carry as much rake as possible. How much is that? You’ll know it’s too much if you can’t get under the boom in tacks and jibes. This is not something you do underway, and if the boom is making boat handling more difficult, make the rig more upright until that smooths out.

What other key adjustments do you make before launching a Moth?

Batten tension is one. For Batten 1 (the top batten) down to Batten 5, just take the creases out of the batten pockets—don’t over-tighten them. For Batten 6, remove the crease and then add two more turns by twisting the batten key two full revolutions in a clockwise direction. For Batten 7, take the creases out and add three turns.

The outhaul is also non-adjustable underway. Rig the boat ashore with the outhaul loose. Pull on max vang and max cunningham, and then pull the outhaul tight. This will give you a good all round setting.

What other settings can you recommend?

Here some of the numbers from my boat, but don’t worry if your measurements are different. Comparing measurements boat to boat may not matter at all. The important thing is to start recording them and experimenting.

Front Prodder 340 (adjustable +/-50mm)

Side Arm 410mm

Deflection 220mm

Shroud Base 1500mm

Mast Length 5100mm (excluding plastic plugs top and bottom)

Back of mast to clew ring 2340mm

How do you set up your foils, actuator wand, and gearing?

This could be the subject for an entire article, but here is an introduction. A Moth has main foils on the daggerboard and a wand in the bow that automatically adjusts the angle of the foils as you fly higher and lower. The rate at which your foils respond depends on how you set the gearing in the bow between your wand and the foils, and this is something you’ll adjust depending on your expectations for wind speed and wave conditions—the rougher it is, the more sensitive you want your gearing to be.

Foil gearing is a critical control for waves; make sure it can be adjusted for rough waters. To get through waves you need faster gearing. You’ll also change foil size depending on the wind forecast. I have two sets of main foils and use the smaller one on windier days. However, if the wind is light for the first race and predicted to build, I’ll go with the larger foil because the speed penalty of not being able to fly with other boats can trumps all other considerations.

Upwind Moth Sailing

What is most important when sailing upwind?

On any point of sail, the vang and cunningham are powerful controls, and need constant adjustment for different conditions. The goal is to generate power for low-riding and to get up on the foils, and then flatten the sail as the wind builds.

One of the challenges of the Moth is it has a maximum 8.25 square meters of sail area, and upwind in most conditions, that’s more sail than you need. Downwind, you have the opposite problem; your speed reduces the apparent wind so much, you’re always starved for power.

What is low-riding mode and how do you sail fast in light winds?

In general you don’t race in winds when you can’t foil, but it may happen that the wind lightens up substantially during a race. Sailing in low-riding mode is an art in itself, something like balancing in a canoe because the hull is so narrow. I always recommend practicing sailing that way.

What does it take to fly a Moth?

To get on the foil, you’ll need a little windward heel to start. If you have marginal flying conditions, shift your weight just slightly farther aft to get more angle on the main foil. Your goal is to get to critical speed to get lift on the foil. Your rig can create vertical lift, so try to tip it over on top of you, but not too far. It’s a bit of a fine line.

Why do you tip the Moth to windward when flying?

We sail with the rig always tipped to windward because it keeps the boat more stable and reduces leeway on the main foil. Use very subtle steering and trimming of the main.

How do you trim the Moth sailing upwind?

Correct trim is the absolute key to good boatspeed. It’s very easy to over-sheet and stall the front of the mainsail. Always have the inside tell tales lifting. A common mistake is sailing under-powered and over-trimmed. As the wind increases, flatten the main by tightening vang and cunningham to accommodate the higher apparent wind speeds.

How do you adjust sail trim for gusty winds?

You need your rig set-up to be user friendly. That means having enough vang and cunningham to straighten the sail. If twisted, the center of effort can move up and down the sail. It takes a certain level of confidence to get to the point where you can let go of the mainsheet to tighten the kicker and cunningham.

Downwind Moth Sailing

What is the key to good Moth speed downwind?

Downwind we need a massive gear change as apparent wind speed reduces when you round the weather mark. Upwind, at speeds of 15 to 20 knots, you’ll be sailing in very high apparent wind speeds and fully depowering. Downwind, apparent wind speed is much lower. After bearing away, let the cunningham off completely, over-ease the vang and then ease the cunningham again. The over-eased vang really allows the cunningham to ease up the mast. I then bring some vang back on too avoid too much twist. People sometimes sail too twisted downwind, which makes the sail flat and less stable. I also pull on a tiny bit of cunningham to clean any creases, and as the wind builds, I bring on both controls slightly.

What is your focus when trimming downwind?

I focus closely on my lower tell tales, keeping them flying 100 percent and making sure I ease enough to keep the sail ‘hooked up’ with airflow attached. I look for a nice big entry angle on the bottom part of the sail and clean up any horizontal creases by subtly tightening the cunningham. From there, it’s a matter of very subtle trim and steering. If in doubt, ease the sheet and be sure you have good flow going around the front of the sail. If you run into a light patch, just head up to keep the flow going on the main. If needed, power up the main even more.

Get the gearing really slow on your foils to minimize drag. The boat will go faster and apparent wind will increase, moving the wind forward and letting you trim harder. Especially when it’s a bit lighter downwind, be sure to pre-empt a drop in apparent wind by easing main and bringing the bow up!

Moth Tacking, Jibing And Gear Changing

How do you foil jibe a Moth?

In all maneuvers, focus on where your body has to end up and getting your hand and foot positions correct. When jibing, think of the foils like they are an airplane; banking its wings is the only way it can turn. You need to tip the boat to leeward as you go into your jibe. As soon as the foils are banked, carve into the jibe with the rudder; the more heel you have, the harder you have to turn. Then move across the boat.

Going into the jibe, I put my hand as far along the tiller extension as possible when I pass it across to the new side of the boat, and my body naturally follows. Lead your body with your arm and you’ll come out with the tiller behind your back where you want it and can do the hand transfer. Practice steering behind your back and quickly changing hands out of the jibe. Also, focus on trimming the main nicely out of the jibe so the sail ‘hooks up’ and you get power quickly. Jibing in light air can be hard but once you’ve got it, you can jibe just as easily in 10 knots or 20 knots.

Sailing the boat downwind in all wind speeds is quite different. When it is windier, you tip the boat to windward more, move aft slightly, and don’t power up the sail as much. If you can’t foil jibe, it’s probably not windy enough to race.

Keep in mind that it’s easier to jibe than tack. Sometimes when sailing upwind, we’ll jibe rather than tack to ensure we can stay on the foil.

How do you foil tack a Moth?

When tacking you have to move quickly, bringing the boat relatively flat once head to wind. Start luffing slowly, taking the edge off your speed; make sure the boat is flat when head to wind. As my body moves across the middle to the new wing, I’ll increase the rate of turn, steering quite aggressively through the eye of wind, but my body has to be ready to cross the boat and receive the power on the new tack. You need to come out tipped to windward.

Here’s how I break it down:

Ten seconds before tacking, consider slowing the boat slightly and sailing slightly higher.

Plan for a slow luff head to wind, followed by a faster turn rate once confident that crew weight can be positioned correctly.

Heel to windward before the tack but flatten the boat once head to wind. Move your weight inboard. It is important here to sheet the mainsheet on centerline so that it is not over the leeward wing when you pass underneath.

As you move across the middle of the boat, pass the tiller extension around the back and into a position halfway along the leeward wing.

When you are confident you can move to the new side, increase the rate of turn, landing on a wider than close-hauled course.

There are a lot of G-forces during this period, so expected to get ejected a few times!

Don’t try to piece the whole tack together immediately. Practice the first phase of luffing head to wind, getting your weight to center, and switching the tiller extension across.

Remember to ease mainsheet out of the tack and have your hands positioned so that the sheet can be eased quickly. The sheet is more important than the tiller on exit.

I set my mast rake to allow 70 to 75cm between the boom and the deck where I cross the boat. Tacking is important, so make sure you have room under the boom! For tacking practice, I recommend having the rig more upright.

Don’t adjust any control lines right before or after tacks, unless it is very light and foiling is marginal.

Name 5 key gear changes in a Moth

To foil early in light air, power up by having the vang and cunningham as loose as possible. However, it is easy to over-deepen the front of the sail, requiring further bear-away to get good flow on the sail. Don’t overdo it. Downwind always requires a deeper sail shape than upwind, regardless of wind speed. Once foiling, immediately pull on vang to stabilize the sail and cunningham to clean the creases. Even though the wind is light, we are quickly doing 14/15kts. The AWS is high so we need to change sail shape to achieve good speeds. As the breeze builds, constantly increase vang and cunningham loads to achieve the desired sail shapes. Max vang should be achieved in 15 knots and max cunningham in 18 knots. The Moth gets overpowered quickly, and from 18 knots upwards a softer tip or different sail is required. North’s LA and DS designs have a slight variation in the luff rounds to cover the range, with the DS being aimed at 14 knots true wind speed. For lighter sailors, a softer-tip allows the mast to bend earlier and depower the sail.

How do you start a race in a Moth?

Starts are a bit chaotic. Even for long-time racers, a Moth start will be a new experience. People get up on their foils with about 25 seconds to go and do a big turn-up at about 3 seconds, crossing the lining at 20 knots. A key thing when you’re on your foils is to have the ability to slow down while maintaining control. You need to practice that. Getting to the pin too soon is dodgy, especially with boats starting on port tack.

Why do so many Moths start on port tack?

Moths travel at 15 to 18 knots upwind, so tacking is a very costly part of an upwind leg. Reducing the number of tacks during a beat is very efficient, although this depends somewhat on how well you tack and how confident you are in making your tacks.

How many ways can you capsize a Moth?

You will capsize a Moth every possible way when learning. But I can sail for days now without capsizing, unless it is windy and choppy. The key to recovering quickly is to get on the daggerboard and do a dry capsize, climbing back over the wing. Sometimes that’s hard to do, especially when you pitchpole and find yourself 20 meters out in front of that boat.

What is the most common boat-handling mistake in a Moth?

Capsizing! Foil tacking, in particular, is very difficult. A common mistake is trying to foil tack when it’s breezy. Drag is so high that as you go through head to wind, everything slows down and it’s easy to capsize. You may be better off planning to do a touch-and-go tack.

Read More – Moth Newbie: Dan Neri Learns To Foil

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