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How do you Unglue models from 40k?
Any joints with glue will break up with a little more time in the fluid. You can dip the model once to remove the paint and then a second time to break up the glue. When cleaning off the paint, you will want to use an old toothbrush and toothpicks for getting the paint out of the crevices.
Can you dissolve model glue?
Dip the cotton swab or cotton square into the acetone-based fingernail polish remover. Acetone is an ingredient that is well known for breaking most bonding agents such as model glue and rubber cement.
How do you Unglue plastic?
For plastic: Lay a damp cloth over the glued area and secure it tightly. Alternately, soak the glue in vegetable oil or diluted vinegar. Let it sit for a few hours to allow the glue to moisten. Blot the glue with acetone or rubbing alcohol and let this substance break down the glue.
How do you Unglue?
Apply petroleum jelly, nail polish remover, vinegar, or oil (alternately, oil-based substances like mayonnaise or margarine) to the area. Saturate fully and gently work the glue away with a scraper or scouring pad. Another method for removing glue from glass, is by varying the temperature.
How do you remove super glue without acetone?
- Soap and warm water. Soak the skin in warm soapy water to loosen the glue, then simply attempt to peel the glue off.
- Lemon Juice. Lemon juice can be used as a substitute to soap if you have sensitive skin. …
- Margarine or olive oil. …
- Laundry detergent.
Can you glue Warhammer models?
Glue is essential for Warhammer. Whether assembling your new shiny plastic army, fiddling with bases or trying to glue together that pesky old metal model – you are going to use glue.
Can you repaint Warhammer models?
It’s quite popular to buy used and repaint miniatures for tabletop games, e.g., Warhammer 40k, Warmachine. Sometimes you get a used model with a bad paint job and you have to refurbish it. How do you refurbish and repaint a used model or miniature? It’s not hard to re-paint used models, with exceptions.
Is Primaris a 32mm scale?
Come and see the latest Primaris size offerings for your next project as we take a look at their new 32mm scale minis. The team at Artel W has some new offerings for your next Space Marine project.
Is 40K 28mm or 32mm?
Is Warhammer 28mm or 32mm? According to Games Workshop, their Warhammer and Warhammer 40K range is 28mm.
How tall is a 40K Terminator model?
Power armoured marines are 7 feet so terminators should be about 7,5-8 feet tall.
How big are Primaris models?
Scale wise from other models, Primarchs would be 15-16ft generally. Primaris are generally described as slightly taller rather than utterly different. My guess is if a marine is 8ft absolute average, Primaris would be close to 9ft (though still shorter than average Custodians).
Tips on how to disassemble assembled models? : Warhammer40k
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How To Strip Paint And Glue From Your Models | Malifaux | Warhammer 40k | warmachine
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Brake Fluid
Acetone
Concentrated Cleaner
Additional thoughts
Freezing a Retrohammer Baneblade: How to easily break superglue bonds on assembled resin models – YouTube
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- Most searched keywords: Whether you are looking for Freezing a Retrohammer Baneblade: How to easily break superglue bonds on assembled resin models – YouTube Updating Yes, you read the title right! Have you ever had a model superglued together that you want to dismantle but can’t separate the parts? Please join me in this …Baneblade, Superglue, Cyanoacrylate, Break, Brittle, Freeze, Freezer, Dismantle, Resin, How to, Technique, Demonstration, Forge World, Retrohammer, Wargames, Wargaming, Break apart, Imperial Guard, Classic, Astra Militarum, Demo
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How to unstick plastic models – YouTube
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How To Assemble Plastic Miniatures Warhammer 40k Firestorm Games – YouTube
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- Most searched keywords: Whether you are looking for How To Assemble Plastic Miniatures Warhammer 40k Firestorm Games – YouTube Updating In this video we show you how to assemble your plastic miniatures.To pick up your own Warhammer 40,000 models and other hobby supplies or miniatures head on …Dark Imperium, Tutorial, Guide, Miniatures, Wargaming, Models, Warhammer, Warhammer 40k, Games Workshop, Space Marines, Chaos, How to, Help, Painting, Assemble, Modelling, Hobby, Tabletop, Gaming, Games, Firestorm Games, Firestormgames, Warhammer TV, GW, HWM, Plastic, Metal, Resin, Minis, Mini, Tips, Cardiff, Shop
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Disassembly | Fandom
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how to disassemble warhammer 40k miniatures
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- Most searched keywords: Whether you are looking for how to disassemble warhammer 40k miniatures A warning about removing the base from your miniature, this will most likely cause some damage to the paint around the …
- Table of Contents:
1 Removing the Old Base
2 Building the Base
3 Priming the Base
4 Painting the Base
5 Snow Flock
6 Pinning the Miniature
7 Cleaning Up the Base
8 Clear Coat #1
9 Touch Up the Miniature
10 Attach the Miniature
11 Clear Coat #2
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How To Strip Paint And Glue From Your Models
We all do it from time to time. You paint a model badly or glue a part in the wrong place or just buy a used model that you want to repaint to fit your scheme. Experienced painters know you should go to the bare metal or plastic and start over for the best results. I will take you through three of the best methods I know of stripping paint on your used or badly painted models. Each has pros and cons. All of them are effective.
Brake Fluid
Brake fluid is corrosive and incredibly effective at breaking apart the paint and the glue on a model. You simply need to place a model in a cup with the brake fluid and let it sit overnight. The paint separates from the model rather quickly. Any joints with glue will break up with a little more time in the fluid. You can dip the model once to remove the paint and then a second time to break up the glue. When cleaning off the paint, you will want to use an old toothbrush and toothpicks for getting the paint out of the crevices. If you run the model under water, the paint and glue will start to dry back up almost instantly, making it difficult to remove. You may have to wash your model with water and dip it back into the fluid multiple times to clean it entirely.
Brake fluid is a toxic substance and should NOT be disposed of down a drain. Fortunately, the brake fluid strength isn’t diminished significantly while using it to clean off paint. You can use the same fluid for multiple models easily.
Pros
Incredibly effective at breaking down paint AND glue.
Highly reusable for multiple models.
Cons
Disposal is limited. Auto shops can tell you the best ways to dispose of brake fluid.
It will take 12 hours or so before the fluid completely dries from the model.
Acetone
Acetone is stored in several ways. It is found in large tins in some automotive supplies or in several varied containers as nail polish remover. The nail polish remover comes in multiple containers that can be chosen based on your needs.
Acetone is probably the strongest substance among these three. You will need to ventilate the area as you should not inhale the acetone fumes. Acetone is better for spot cleaning models because it evaporates quickly. You can trap acetone into a cup with your model, but it will still dry up quickly. You will need to make sure that acetone does not destroy the cup. A hard plastic cup or metal container is the only way you should hold acetone. It will eat thin plastics and paper or styrofoam cups. It breaks down glue and makes it a gel-like substance for a short time. If you can’t remove the part quickly, the glue will dry back into place.
If you find the right container for acetone, you can store a model inside and keep it sealed. Since the container is designed to hold acetone, it should slow down any evaporation issues you might have.
Pros
The best substance on this list for removal.
Almost no down time before being able to prime thanks to quick evaporation.
Requires less time before paint and glue are removable than the other two substances here.
Cons
Requires ventilation.
Evaporates quickly when not in a completely sealed container.
It dries quickly along with any glue it has weakened. It’s paramount to move a model from acetone to cleaning as fast as possible.
Concentrated Cleaner
Cleaners such as Purple Power or Simple Green fall into this category. The key here is to not dilute the cleaner, at all. The concentration is where the strength is. Pour some into your cup and drop the model in. In only a few hours, you should have the paint ready to wash off. If you don’t leave the model in the cleaner for an excessive amount of time, it won’t affect the glue on your model.
If you are putting a model in that has some bare metal, that metal will likely stain and look dirty. It is nearly impossible to remove the stain, but it will not have any adverse effects on your primer or paints.
Pros
It only requires a few hours to break down paints.
Perfect for cleaning paint without breaking down the glue holding it together.
No need for excessive ventilation or specific disposal.
Cons
Stains the bare pewter if left in direct contact for too long.
Isn’t good at breaking down glue in a short amount of time.
Additional thoughts
All three of these substances should be kept away from children and animals. If anyone of them is ingested, a hospital visit will likely be necessary. You should wash your hands after use with any of these. There are plenty more options to choose from, but these are tried and true for my models. There are few, if any, options on game store shelves for removing paint from models and they are usually over-priced. These options are cheaper and more effective.
Hopefully this will help you clean up those old armies you’ve been wanting to repaint!
How to Build Miniatures: Assemble, Clean & Glue Warhammer
The first time I build miniatures for Warhammer I absolutely wrecked those poor minis. At the time I did not know, and I could not see that I had ruined it – but I had!
Assembling a miniature is actually really simple, but a few mistakes can really mess it up.
In this article I am going through how to assemble a Warhammer plastic miniature step by step, so you can avoid messing things up.
Before you start, make sure you get all your gear ready. You will need:
The frames/sprues for the plastic miniatures you are going to assemble The manual that came with the box of miniatures A pair of clippers. Make sure one of the ends are flat, or else you are going to have a harder time cleaning the pieces. I prefer to get clippers that are really sharp because it will give you a cleaner finish. For plastic miniatures, you will need some plastic glue – specifically poly cement glue. Citadel is fine, but I prefer the small nozzle of the Revell. It just gives a bit more precision, and I hate getting glue on places I do not want. To remove excess plastic, from the sprue or from mouldlines, you will need some sort of tool. You can use either a hobby knife or the citadel mouldline remover. For a beginner, I would recommend the citadel remover (it gives less chance of you cutting something off by accident). When I clean plastic I switch back and forth from the knife and the remover, so getting both is totally worth it in the long run. To remove excess glue a bit of paper towel is very handy. You are going to end up with quite a bit of small plastic bits. I usually have a cardboard box that I try and get the small plastic bits into (just to not make a complete mess of the living room).
2. Cut out the first few pieces you want to glue
Looking at the manual and see what numbers the first pieces on the first picture has. Cut those outs and only those. To cut it, lay the flat end of the clippers as close to the piece as possible. If you do it correctly you will get the minimal amount of excess plastic on the piece (but you cannot avoid getting a bit extra on it). Getting a clean job is an essential skill to building miniatures.
While you cut out the piece, try and memorize where the parts was connected to the sprue. The next step is easier if you know where to look for the exces plastic you need to get off.
3. Remove excess plastic and mouldlines from the pieces
Now you have cut out a few pieces of the model as described in your manual. But before you glue them together you will want to make sure there are no leftover plastic bits from the sprue. Those part will become very apparent once you start painting, so you will thank yourself if take care and clean the parts now.
Take your mouldline remover and gently scrape off the excess bits left from the places where you cut the plastic piece off the sprue. I find that the leftover bits stand clearly out from the rest of the plastic because the sprue plastic has been warped and discoloured from when you clipped it off.
At times it can be hard to use the mouldline remover to get it off. This is mainly if the plastic piece you are cleaning is very small, or if you have a lot of spikes on it. When using the mouldline remover you have to apply some force to the plastic to use it correctly. Sometimes this will cause you to bend the piece you are trying to clean, making the whole process a waste of time. At those times you might be better of using an exacto /hobby knife instead.
After you have done this, look closely at the model. Notice any small lines that looks out of place on the model? Those a mouldlines and do not look good when the model is painted. New GW miniatures have very minimal mouldlines, but they are still visible on some models. Over time you will get better and better at recognising, noticing and removing these mouldlines.
To remove the mouldlines simply scrape on it gently with the mouldline remover.
If you are using a hobby knife and not the mouldline remover, you have to take care you do not cut of plastic that is part of the model. This can look much worse than what the mouldlines did and is the primary reason why I praise the mouldline remover so much.
4. Test if the pieces fit together
This step is sometimes skipable, but it can be a good idea to just check if the pieces fit snugly together. Sometimes it can be a bit fiddly how the parts actually go together, so it is nice to know before you get glue all over the place and plastic starts melting in.
Just make sure you know how to put the pieces together before you get glue on them. Look closely at the manual if it is not immediately apparent. GW has actually gotten really good at making manuals and illustrations, so apart from the odd pieces, you should have no trouble getting things to fit together.
5. Put glue on the pieces that will connect the miniature
For the most part, less is more with this step. The glue will melt the plastic and create a very strong joint, so do not glob glue all over the place.
Because the glue melts the plastic, make sure you only get glue on the parts of the model that will be glued together. If not, you will get a weird melted look (cool for Nurgle stuff, but otherwise a bit of a bummer).
Be careful not to get glue on your fingers and smear them on the model, as this will leave fingerprint marks.
6. Attach the pieces together
Now gently press the pieces together. If you did it properly, only a very minimal amount of glue will squeeze out between the two pieces. If too much glue is squeezing you have put on more than you needed. The small amount of exes glue that comes out can help cover the seams between the two pieces, so do not worry too much about it.
You will only have to hold the pieces together for a few seconds before the plastic will start to meld together. Sometimes the balance of the miniature can be a bit off, where gravity forces the two pieces apart. In those cases, it can be helpful to let the glue dry a bit before attaching the pieces. That way, the plastic will have started to melt on both parts making the bond between them happen faster. You can also just hold the pieces together with your finger.
If you need to reposition the pieces, hurry up and do it while the glue has not melted the plastic. It is very hard to reposition once the plastic has turned to goo. Remember that after the plastic has bonded, it can be almost impossible to tear the pieces from each other.
7. Remove the excess glue with paper towel
If you have too much glue coming out from the gaps, wipe it away with some paper towel.
8. Repeat the steps until the miniature is assembled
While the pieces are making a strong bond, go ahead and find the next step in the manual. Cut out those pieces and get to work cleaning them. By the time you are ready to glue those, the glue and plastic from the last pieces will have cured enough that you can handle the miniature carefully and attach the next pieces.
Answers to common questions regarding assembling miniatures
How do I clean the nozzle of the glue?
At some point it will happen: the nozzle on your plastic glue is blocked and nothing is coming out (if you look closely at the gifs in this article you can see that mine is pretty blocked, making it hard to get the glue out. To clean it, simply take out the nozzle, hold it in some metal tweezers and burn that little thing. The dried glue inside will pop out, and it will be ready for use again (see gif below).
Why not clean all parts of the miniature in bulk?
It is perfectly viable to “bulk” the process above. Cut out all the pieces one at a time, clean all the pieces one at a time and glue all the pieces in the end. This was the best way of doing it, back when all arms and legs would fit on all torsos in a box of miniatures. But with the new Warhammer miniatures, it is much better to follow the instruction manual to the letter. It can become very hard to discern what pieces fit together, once you have lost track at what the number is for each piece. This is why I suggest to take it one step at a time.
Rebasing a Miniature
I have miniatures with bases that I just plain hate. I worked on making better looking bases and decided to go back to my old miniatures and replace their bases with new ones. As I started to get a system down I thought I would make a guide showing how I am doing it incase it would be helpful to anyone else. Plus if you skip past the information on how to remove the miniature from the base, this doubles as a basing guide too.
I like the winter look, so this guide will show how to make new bases that have some snow on them. You can just as easily skip past the snow part and add grass flock instead.
Note on the photos: Due to technical issues (i.e. I didn’t know how to work the camera correctly), a lot of the pictures did not turn out. You will see different miniatures along the stages of this guide, sorry.
Tools Cutters
File
This is something you want to take your time with, as rushing here can cause excess damage to your miniature. A warning about removing the base from your miniature, this will most likely cause some damage to the paint around the miniature’s feet that you will need to touch up later.
Fight the urge to grab the miniature in one hand and grab the base in the other and try to wiggle the base off, this will bend the feet/legs which is something we want to avoid. I start by cutting away at the base with the cutters. We want to clear enough away so we can cut away one of the edges of the groove running down the middle of the base. I find that if you remove one of the edges you can easily pull the plastic away from the tab of the miniature. When you are cutting away and removing the base, make sure to have something under the miniature like a cloth to catch the miniature if it pops out of the base.
After you have removed the old base you will need to remove the tab on the miniature since the new base will not have a slot for the tab. I use my cutters to cut the tab away from the feet. Do not try to cut the tab in half, i.e. between the two feet, this will displace the metal which will result in your feet/legs bending.
After I cut the tab away from the feet I use a file to clean up the bottom of the feet, this makes drilling the hole for the pin easier some times.
Tools ACE Ready Mix Concrete – This stuff rocks, adds great texture to the base and all you have to do is scoop it out of the container and put it on the base.
Popsicle Stick – I use it to spread the concrete on the new base.
Corn Meal (coarse polenta style, NOT cornmeal flour) and Cracked Bulgarwheat – I like using a combination of the two as the Corn Meal is finer then the Cracked Bulgarwheat. Cornmeal and Bulgarwheat can be found in the bulk bins of some grocery stores and almost all heath food stores. You won’t need much, just a few ounces will last a good long while. In the pictures below, the Cornmeal is the small yellow stuff and the Bulgarwheat is the brown larger chunks.
Masking Tape – You can cover up the groove in the small and medium bases so you don’t use as much cement. I use the 1″ masking tape as it works well with both the small and medium bases.
Container of Water – For dipping the miniature’s feet into.
Marker – For numbering the bases.
A Wet Paper Towel – To wet our finger.
A Dry Paper Towel – To remove cement from our finger.
Now we need to get the base ready. Usually I take a knife and clean up the spur that is usually left on the edge of the base. Once the edge of the base is smooth I take a piece of masking tape and cover up the slot in the base. This saves me some cement, it also makes the base easier to deal with because without the tape, cement will ooze out the bottom.
If you are working with multiple miniature at once, I usually do, you should number the bottom of your bases so you will be able to match up each base with the correct miniature. You should also make a spot where you can place the miniatures and keep track of which base they go with. I use a piece of paper numbered 1-10.
We now enter a “Time” game, since the cement will set in roughly 10 minutes. You need to have all your supplies ready before you begin.
Now that the base is ready for the cement I grab the Popsicle stick and spread on the cement. Try to avoid getting the cement on the edge of the base, but don’t try too hard because it is going to happen and we are prepared for it. Even out the cement, don’t try too hard, it will get shifted around when we add the corn meal.
Now hold the base in one hand and run you index finger of the other hand across your wet paper towel. Once your finger is damp, run your finger around the edge of the base to remove any cement that got on the edge. This will take many attempts to get it all clean, I go about 1/8 around the base at a time. This generally builds up enough cement on my finger that I need to wipe if off with the dry paper towel before continuing. After I wipe the cement off my finger, I get it wet with the wet paper towel and continue this until I have removed all the cement from the edge of the base.
This is when I add the Corn Meal and Cracked Bulgarwheat. If the feet are spread apart, most are, I look at the bottom of the base to see where the groove in the base is. We do not want the feet of the miniature to fall over the groove, as there is no plastic to drill into and the miniature will not be securely attached if we did. You want to avoid getting the Corn Meal and Cracked Bulgarwheat where the miniatures feet will be. I try to lay a strip down the middle of the base, following the groove. I use more Corn Meal then the Cracked Bulgarwheat. Once you have put the Corn Meal and Cracked Bulgarwheat down, press them in slightly with your finger, this will help prevent them from falling off later.
Now you need to let the base sit for at least 10 minutes, if you do not let it set up you will have problems when you press the miniature into the cement. So after the 10 minutes has passed, if you are working on multiple bases it’s pretty easy to get all the bases ready then move on to this step. Take your miniature and just barely dip it into your water, you just want some water on the bottom of its feet. Then with the base on your table press the miniature straight down into the cement. Then you may need to hold the base with one hand and pull the miniature straight up with the other. If you waited long enough there should be very little, if any, cement on the bottom of the miniature. Go ahead and clean off the feet with your Wet Paper Towel to get any cement off of it. Now make note of the number of the base, and place the miniature on the paper next to the corresponding number.
Now you need to let the cement completely dry before you prime it. If it is a nice sunny day out I put my bases outside to dry. I will test the cement every hour or so to see if it has completely dried, but usually won’t even consider priming them until at least 4 hours have passed. If I make the base in the evening, I let them dry overnight.
Tools Bondo Easy Finish Black Primer – What a find this was, $2.99 at my hardware store and the stuff works great. Priming the bases in black saves time.
Not too much to this step, I prime the base using my Bondo Black Primer. It can take a few coats to make sure that you get all the little nooks in the cement. You want to get it completely black so we can be lazy and avoid having to paint it black later. I let the base dry for at least 15 minutes outside, especially since the Bondo Primer is quite smelly.
Tools Dark and light brown paint
Paint brush
This just takes a couple quick dry brushings. Some people use old crappy brushes to dry brush with, I too used to do this, but I think you get better results when you use a new brush that is just for dry brushing. I use a flat brush with a tapered point, I find this works well for me. Since it’s a new brush with all the bristles present and not all bent this way and that way, I get better application of paint.
Start with a dark brown. I have old school citadel paints, these are so old they are from when they didn’t even have labels saying what color paint is in them. These were common in the early 90’s. That said, give it a quick dry brush coat. If you are not familiar with dry brushing, it is pretty simple. Get a little paint on your brush and make 2″ strokes across a piece of paper. Do this until the brush is dry and does not put any paint on the paper. Now run the brush across the top of the base, you will see a light coating of paint that highlights the highpoints on the base. Repeat this until you get the desired amount of paint on the base.
Next dry brush on some light brown paint. If you are using the same brush you have 2 options here. Either start using the new paint with out cleaning the brush, I’m lazy and do this, or after you clean the brush make sure it is really dry. I suggest waiting at least 15 minutes, because if there is any water in the brush, it going to cause problems with the paint running on the base. This is why I don’t clean my brush between the 2 colors.
Remember, if your base looks horrible, grab some black ink and ink over the top of the base. Let it dry and try again.
Tools Water
Baking Soda
White Glue
Toothpick
Brush for cleaning off the base
Blister pack or some other container you can destroy.
Now we are going to add some snow to our base, or you can add some grass flock if you prefer but I will be talking about snow here. I was surprised how easy making snow actually was, the hardest part was learning how to not make too much. To make the snow you’ll want to use a plastic container that you don’t mind destroying. I use blister packs and hey if you just bought new bases you should have at least 1 blister pack lying around.
The key I found to not making too much, is start with the white glue first and then add water to thin it out. If you start with water then you have to keep adding glue until it’s thick enough, which can lead to making too much snow. You want to add just enough water to the glue to thin it out so it is about half as thick as straight white glue. Once it is the right consistency, I start adding baking soda until it becomes a nice paste. If you use a toothpick to mix the paste up, when you lift the toothpick the paste should stick. If you bake, think of it like beating egg whites, if you can get a peak with the paste, you’re ready.
Now using the same toothpick, apply it to the base where you want the snow. Making sure not to place any where the feet will be. Don’t spread it flat, leave it in blobby mounds to give the snow some dimension. Then once you have the paste down, add some baking soda on top of the paste you just applied. Don’t worry about cleaning off the excess baking soda just yet. Let the base dry for 10-15 minutes and then use a brush (I have a brush that I only use for this), and start brushing off some of the excess baking soda. Don’t try to remove soda on the paste now, just soda that’s on the rest of the base.
Then I let the base dry over night and then I remove all remaining baking soda that will brush off.
Tools 3/64 Brass Pipe – I like the 3/64 size, works well with all my infantry miniatures, and it holds the Jacks too.
Pin Vise with 3/64 Drill Bit – You have to make the hole for the brass pipe somehow.
Dental Pick – I use a dental pick to clean up the hole I put in the new base for the pin, you could use a toothpick and knife just as well.
Marker – For marking where to cut the pipe.
Cutter
Super glue
First look at the miniature’s feet/legs and look for a good spot where you want the pin to go. Usually I look for the foot/leg with the most metal I can drill into. Then with the spot in mind where you want the pin to go, place the miniature on the base and eyeball where the hole should be in the base. I find it’s pretty close to the middle of the foot print. Then I use my pin vise to drill a hole in the base. Don’t worry the cement doesn’t cause any problems.
I use a dental pick, but a tooth pick works too, to clean up the hole I just drilled. Then I place the miniature in the foot prints and hold the base and miniature together in one hand and turn it over so I can see the hole that I drilled. Now drill through the hole into the bottom of the miniature. This will ensure that the hole in the base and the hole in the miniature line up.
You only need to get the hole started in the miniature, you don’t have to drill the whole thing. Once the hole is stared, I remove the miniature from the base and finish drilling the hole in the miniature.
At this point insert the 3/64″ brass pipe into the miniature to make sure that it is deep enough for the pipe to be supported well. Then place the miniature back on the base. Grab a marker and mark on the pipe where you need to trim it (usually just where the pipe emerges from the bottom of the base).
Take everything apart and cut the pipe where you marked it. Once the pipe is the correct length, go ahead and put a little super glue on it and glue it to the miniature.
Tools Black Ink / Black Paint
Paint Brush
At this point we will need to touch up the edge of the base because we probably got some paint on the edge when we were dry brushing. I love to use black ink instead of black paint, coats well and does not leave a build up of paint. You could use black paint, but if you have black ink, give it a shot. Just give the edge a quick touch up and let it dry. Again at least 15 minutes here, otherwise your clear coat can get “Hazy” if you put it on while the base is still drying.
Tools Cheap 12oz can of clear coat like Krylon Matte Finish
I like to apply the first Clear Coat without the miniature on the base. For the first Clear Coat I use my cheaper Clear Coat, Krylon or Blare. I save the Testors Dull Coat for the second coat since its 3oz and costs the same as the other 12oz clear coats. I let it dry outside for, drum roll please, another 15 minutes.
Tools Paint
Paint Brush
When you removed the old base, you probably took a little paint off around the edges of the miniatures feet. Now that the miniature is pinned, you can use your Hemostats, or vise grip to pick up the miniature by the pin, go ahead at touch up the spots where you lost some paint and can see bare metal. I find that just painting on the bare metal for these tiny spots works out just fine.
Tools Super Glue
We can finally glue the miniature to the base. I put a little superglue on the bottom of the feet. After I attach the miniature to the base I put a little glue on the bottom of the pin under the base. Let the glue dry completely, if you use too much glue on the bottom you can get a residue on the edge of the base from the fumes of the glue. If this happens to you, just touch it up with the black ink again.
Tools Testors 1260 Dull Cote
Now I use the good stuff, the Testors 1260 Dull Cote, I give it a coating aimed mostly at the base and let it dry. We are done.
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