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Can I get more amps out of my alternator?
Amperage is basically the amount of electrical current your alternator can supply. And it basically operates off of supply and demand. That is, your alternator will only supply the amount of amperage a particular component demands—and no more.
What controls the amperage output of the alternator?
The current flowing through the rotating solenoid (rotor) is the decisive factor for regulating the output generated by the alternator. This current is used to alter the magnetic field. It is controlled by the alternator regulator based on the battery voltage, which has been measured in advance.
What makes an alternator high output?
The term “high-output” for alternators simply means the new, rebuilt, or rewound unit is capable of producing more amps across the board than a stock unit. In the realm of diesel pickups, a high-output alternator produces more than three times the amp output of a stock alternator.
What size alternator do I need for 1000 watt amp?
If you’ve read this far and are starting to rethink 150’s, hair tricks, and broken windshields, you can still enjoy considerable bass with a single high output alternator in your car or truck. As a general rule, you need about 100 amps of current for every 1000 watts of power generated.
How big of an alternator do I need for 3000 watts?
3000 watt / 12V is equal to 250A. A 250A alternator is needed to keep up with it. Since your engine would have to work just as hard as any portable 3KW generator to keep up with the amplifier, you would need a large fuel tank.
Does RPM affect alternator output?
As most rodders know, alternators have greater output at higher speeds. This increase in output is not linear but is actually a curve. This means that as rpm changes, the alternator will increase and decrease its output at different rates.
Does RPM affect alternator charge?
Alternator may not generate sufficient charging voltage until alternator speed is greater than about 2000 RPM. Typically, alternators have their full output rated at 6000 RPM but can continue to spin up to 12,000 RPM or more without any additional increase in output.
What is the advantage of a higher amp alternator?
Better Battery Life
That’s because an oversized alternator produces more output at lower speeds, including idle. That increased output prevents the battery from having to help supply the load—and this keeps it at a more ideal state of charge. The battery cycles less, which translates into better battery life.
Is a 160 amp alternator good?
The 160 amp is known to be used on emergency vehicles that are at a standstill and still running lots of 12v power thru said appliances.
How big of an alternator do I need for 2000 watts?
For example, if you installed a 2,000-watt amp, assuming a nominal voltage of 13.5V, you’d add roughly 150 amps of demand to the electrical system.
Is a 220 amp alternator good?
With some extra work there are ways to get decent charge going, but even then the 220A alternator is probably enough for most scenarios if there are no other non-vehicle loads.
What does a big 3 upgrade do?
A big 3 upgrade will allow more current flow to all of your stereo components, improving your electrical system by ensuring more consistent voltage. This upgrade entails replacing the three main cables in your electrical system with 4 gauge or 1/0 wires.
How many amps does a 24 volt alternator put out?
Alternators available for 24volt systems typically tap out at 500 to 600 amps.
How much current should an alternator put out?
Most late model alternators produce 120 to 155 amps or more. Current output increases with engine speed, from around 20 to 50 amps at idle up to the unit’s maximum output at 2,500 RPM or higher (refer to a service manual for the exact charging output specifications for your vehicle).
Do I need a bigger alternator for two batteries?
A car alternator will be more than capable of charging two batteries. However you need to be more careful about connecting two batteries together if one is charged and the other is not.
What does 60 amp alternator mean?
A 60A alternator is capable of pushing out a maximum of 60A. If your battery was very low then the alternator would indeed start to recharge it at 60A.
Alt Text: 5 Things You Should Know Before Using a High-Output Alternator – OnAllCylinders
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Do You Really Need a High-Output Alternator
What Amperage Do You Need
Electrical Load of Common Vehicle Accessories
How Much is Too Much
What Gauge Wire Do You Need
Recommended Cable Gauge and Length for Amp Draw
What is Pulley Ratio (and Why Should You Care)
Alternator regulator | Mein Autolexikon
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- Most searched keywords: Whether you are looking for Alternator regulator | Mein Autolexikon Updating The alternator regulator is responsible for ensuring that all loads in the vehicle are provided with sufficient energy to function.Alternator regulator
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Current measurement
Other functions
High-Output Alternators Save the Day
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How to Upgrade Your Charging System (Mechman Alternator) | AnthonyJ350 – YouTube
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How do I increase alternator output?
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- Summary of article content: Articles about How do I increase alternator output? Look for a diagram under or near your fuse box cover. It will have indivual amperage numbers (sometimes along with volts) already set by the … …
- Most searched keywords: Whether you are looking for How do I increase alternator output? Look for a diagram under or near your fuse box cover. It will have indivual amperage numbers (sometimes along with volts) already set by the … So if we use a diode at low current, it will drop just about the right voltage. If we use a diode at a higher current then the voltage drop will be higher and therefore the output voltage of the alternator will be increased by more. By ‘low current, or ‘high current’ we mean in relation to the rating of the diode.Jul 21, 2008 + 13 related answers
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High-Output Alternators Save the Day
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SmartGauge Electronics – Increasing alternator charge voltages
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Selecting different sized diodes can alter the output regulation of the alternator. A smaller diode will increase the charge voltage by more … … - Most searched keywords: Whether you are looking for
SmartGauge Electronics – Increasing alternator charge voltages
Selecting different sized diodes can alter the output regulation of the alternator. A smaller diode will increase the charge voltage by more … - Table of Contents:
How to Choose an Alternator: Do You Need High Output?
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Will a high amp alternator damage your electrical system
How Much Alternator Is Too Much
High Amp Alternator Supply and Demand
Do You Really Need a High Amp Alternator
How Much Alternator Amperage Do You Need
Necessary High Amp Alternator Electrical System Modifications
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How to Modify Alternator Output by 150 amps | YBW Forum
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Alt Text: 5 Things You Should Know Before Using a High-Output Alternator
So you’re considering swapping out your stock alternator.
There are plenty of good reasons to make the leap to a high-output alternator, but you’ll need to do a little bit of homework first. Luckily, we’ve got smart friends to help us with our studies, so you can ace the topic. In conjunction with the alternator experts at Powermaster and MSD, we’ve compiled the five things you need to know before upgrading to a high-amp, or high-output alternator.
This starts with the most basic of questions:
Do You Really Need a High-Output Alternator?
If you’ve got a basic, stock vehicle, chances are you don’t need a high-output alternator. Most factory alternators are rated at 65 to 100 amps and are capable of handling your vehicle’s basic necessities, such as headlights, gauges, fuel pumps, A/C, etc. These alternators also typically come with a 10 to 15 percent reserve to handle additional accessories.
However, many of our readers don’t have a stock vehicle. For example, you may have a custom-built street rod with a unique combination of accessories. Or you may have a high-end stereo system or a race vehicle with an array of on-board electronics. As the electrical load of all these accessories add up, you may find yourself in need of a higher-amperage alternator.
But how do you know?
There are a few ways to figure out whether you need to upgrade your alternator. A few telltale signs are dim headlights, poor stereo system performance, or an alternator that simply wears out quickly. You can also check your electrical load using an ammeter. Simply connect the ammeter in series with the battery’s ground terminal (with the engine turned off), switch each electrical component on and off, and note their amperage draws. Add up the total electrical draw and compare with your alternator’s rated output. The output should be 50 percent greater than the draw.
One final way to estimate your vehicle’s electrical load is to check the accessory fuses. The amp ratings, although slightly higher than the highest draw of each component, will give you a good estimate of your vehicle’s electrical load.
What Amperage Do You Need?
That depends on the current draw, along with any future accessories you plan to add. For that reason, we’ve supplied a list of some common accessories and their amp draw:
Electrical Load of Common Vehicle Accessories Accessory Amp Draw Air Conditioner 20-21 Audio Power Amplifiers 10-70 Back-Up Lamps 3-4 Cigarette Lighter 10-12 CD/Tuner with Amp 7-14 CD/Player/Tuner without Amp 2.5-5 Clock 0.3 Dome Light 1-2 Electric Cooling Fans 6-15 Head Lamp Dimmer 2 Head Lamp (Low Beam) 8-10 Head Lamp (High Beam) 13-15 Heater Defroster 6-15 Horn 10-20 Ignition 1.5-4 Ignition (Racing) 8-36 Instrument Panel 0.7-1.5 Lamp, Gauges 1.5-3.5 Lamps, License Plate 1.5-2 Lamps, Parking 1.5-2 Lamps, Side Marker 1.3-3 Lamps, Tail 5-7 Nitrous Oxide Solenoid 5-8 Power Windows Defroster 1-30 Power Seats 25-50 Power Windows 20-30 Power Antenna 6-10 Pumps, Electric Fuel 3-8 Starter Solenoid 10-12 Voltage Regulators (1 Wire) 0.3-0.5
How Much is Too Much?
You can never have too much amperage when it comes to alternators; therefore, you never have to worry about choosing an alternator with too high of a rated output. Here’s why:
Amperage is basically the amount of electrical current your alternator can supply. And it basically operates off of supply and demand. That is, your alternator will only supply the amount of amperage a particular component demands—and no more. So high-output alternators will not harm your components or charging system, no matter how high you go with the amps.
What Gauge Wire Do You Need?
A performance alternator really doesn’t require much in the way of modifications. However, Powermaster and other alternator manufacturers do recommend you replace both the ground straps and charge wire. Keep in mind the factory cables weren’t designed to handle the juice of a higher-output alternator, and can restrict the flow of electricity.
In the case of the charge wire, you really can’t go too large. However, here is a chart that matches cable gauge size to total amperage:
Recommended Cable Gauge and Length for Amp Draw Cable Length Up to 4 ft. 4-7 ft. 7-10 ft. 10-13 ft. 13-16 ft. 16-19 ft. 19-22 ft. 22-28 ft. 0-20 Amps 14 AWG 12 AWG 12 AWG 10 AWG 10 AWG 8 AWG 8 AWG 8 AWG 20-35 Amps 12 AWG 10 AWG 8 AWG 8 AWG 8 AWG 6 AWG 6 AWG 4 AWG 35-50 Amps 10 AWG 8 AWG 8 AWG 6 AWG 6 AWG 4 AWG 4 AWG 4 AWG 50-65 Amps 8 AWG 8 AWG 6 AWG 4 AWG 4 AWG 4 AWG 4 AWG 2 AWG 65-85 Amps 6 AWG 6 AWG 4 AWG 4 AWG 4 AWG 2 AWG 2 AWG 0 AWG 85-105 Amps 6 AWG 6 AWG 4 AWG 2 AWG 2 AWG 2 AWG 2 AWG 0 AWG 105-125 Amps 4 AWG 4 AWG 4 AWG 2 AWG 2 AWG 2 AWG 2 AWG 0 AWG 125-150 Amps 2 AWG 2 AWG 2 AWG 2 AWG 2 AWG 0 AWG 0 AWG 0 AWG
What is Pulley Ratio (and Why Should You Care)?
In short, pulley ratio is a comparison between the crankshaft pulley diameter and alternator pulley diameter. This ratio is derived by dividing the crank pulley diameter by the alternator pulley. For example, a 6-inch crank pulley with 2-inch alternator pulley will yield a 3:1 pulley ratio.
The ratio has a direct effect on how fast the alternator spins.
In order to understand the importance of pulley ratio, you first need to understand the “power curve” involved with alternator output. Although the alternator’s output is dependent upon engine speed, it follows a unique curve. At idle, small changes in the alternator’s speed can make a big difference, so the pulley ratio becomes very important.
Powermaster supplies its alternators with pulleys matched to the alternator’s power curve. The company follows this common rule of thumb:
Street use = 3:1 ratio or slightly higher
Drag racing = 1.75:1 ratio
Circle track = 1:1 ratio
So why should you care?
Because differing ratios can affect performance, you should take care to maintain the same pulley ratio if you decide to use dress-up pulley sets. A mismatched pulley ratio and alternator can lead to big problems, especially at idle where alternator performance is critical. That’s because these high-amp units typically lose output under 2,400 rotor rpm. Rotor rpm are a factor of pulley ratio multiplied by engine speed. So, if you have a pulley ratio of 2:1 multiplied by an engine speed of 870, you’ll get a rotor rpm of 1,827.
At 1,827 rpm, you’ll see a significant drop in alternator output.
Again, the ideal ratio depends on your application (street, drag racing, circle track racing), but you need to understand the effects of altering pulley ratio.
With all this in mind, you’re ready to choose the right alternator for your application.
Alternator regulator
A fully charged car battery is essential if a vehicle is to function trouble-free. The alternator regulator must monitor and control the process to charge the battery. It must also ensure that all power loads in the vehicle have sufficient energy to function. The alternator control is usually a component of the alternator. Due to the different power ratings of alternators and the large number of alternator manufacturers, there are now several hundred different types of regulator.
Current measurement
The current flowing through the rotating solenoid (rotor) is the decisive factor for regulating the output generated by the alternator. This current is used to alter the magnetic field. It is controlled by the alternator regulator based on the battery voltage, which has been measured in advance. This measurement process is repeated up to several hundred times a second so that a change in charge at the battery can be compensated very quickly.
The voltage generated by the alternator must be higher than the battery voltage. Depending on the vehicle manufacturer’s specifications, the alternator will have a control voltage of between 14 and 15 V for passenger cars and between 28 and 29 V for trucks and HGVs.
Rather than varying the current in the rotor in the same way, the regulator uses a process of switching the current on and off for different lengths of time (duty cycle). So, if the current is switched on for a prolonged period and is off only for a short time during a control phase, the alternator will supply a high output. Conversely, the output from the alternator will be low if the regulator only switches the current on for a short time and leaves it off for a prolonged period.
The alternator regulator also automatically adapts the battery charge to the ambient temperature. This is necessary because the charge characteristics of the car battery are not the same at -20 °C, for example, as they are at +30 °C. The regulator takes care of the need to adapt the battery charge automatically with a charging curve which is specified in the data sheets as a temperature coefficient.
High-Output Alternators Save the Day
It doesn’t matter whether it’s in the deep chill of winter or the heat of summer, on a work truck, emergency vehicle, or personal rig—the last thing a driver wants to see or hear are dim headlights and the clickity-clickity-click sound of a dead battery.
All too often that’s the case when diesel-pickup owners run the heat or air-conditioning at full blast, with a raft of auxiliary lights shining brightly…while doing things like slowly plowing deep snow through the night.
Depleting a battery’s charge due to a stock alternator’s inability to support the demand for power isn’t of much concern for most diesel owners, because the unit generally provides enough amps to handle normal demands.
“What many truck owners forget about alternators is their purpose is to support a fully charged battery or batteries under increased electrical loads—not to charge up completely dead or dying batteries,” says Matthew Logan of Mechman Alternators.
See all 15 photos See all 15 photos
Amp Eaters Electrical accessories such as power inverters, winches, business radios, snowplows, emergency lights, onboard air compressors, trailer battery chargers, and similar auxiliary components place a big electrical load on the charging system.
Combine their amp draw with the normal amount of juice needed to run a later-model diesel pickup—which can be as much as 90 to 95 amps (computer systems, injection pumps, lift pumps, HVAC, lights, stereo, and other factory components)—and it’s easy to overpower the typical output of the stock 140- or 180-amp alternator.
Enthusiasts who know their work and recreational needs are going to place a high demand on the electrical system typically order the dual-alternator option when they purchase a truck. The $300 to $400 investment is a small price to pay for doubling amp output.
Those who later realize their truck’s single alternator isn’t cutting it have only one alternative: upgrade. There are many aftermarket manufacturers that specialize in high-output alternators and dual-alternator kits.
See all 15 photos See all 15 photos Heavy-duty electric winches put the biggest hit on batteries. The larger winches used on heavy-duty pickups, such as Warn Industries’ 16.5ti Thermometric Self-Recovery unit, draw more than 500 amps under full pull. Even smaller-capacity winches will easily outpace the rate at which a single alternator can feed the batteries.
Alternator Ratings The term “high-output” for alternators simply means the new, rebuilt, or rewound unit is capable of producing more amps across the board than a stock unit. In the realm of diesel pickups, a high-output alternator produces more than three times the amp output of a stock alternator.
Speaking of output ratings, make sure you’re comparing apples to apples. The sure way to compare alternator performance is if the alternator manufacturer’s ratings are done using international testing standards: ISO 8854 or SAE J56. Such test standards verify how much an alternator can produce at 6,000 rpm (alternator shaft speed) under controlled bench-test conditions at a temperature of 70 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit and voltage at 13.5 volts. Any other alternator “testing” or “rating” should prompt a few more questions toward the supplier about testing methods.
An SAE J56-certified test also provides ratings for “idle output” at 1,500 rpm and “maximum rated speed” output. The resulting numbers are stamped on the alternator. For example, an alternator that has an SAE J56 rating of “150/300 13.5V” made 150 amps at 1,500-rpm alternator shaft speed and 300 amps at 6,000 rpm, at a test voltage of 13.5 volts.
See all 15 photos See all 15 photos One of Mechman Alternators’ “Big 3” wiring kits includes no-crimp cable ends and fine-strand, flexible cable. This type of end uses a set-screw to secure the cable. A slick setup, but we still prefer soldering or crimping.
Inner Workings When shopping for a new alternator, there are some components inside the case that typically mean the difference between one of standard OEM build quality and one custom-built for handling high-amp draw in demanding diesel situations.
An alternator consists of a rotor turning inside coils on the inside of a case, called the stator. But Dave Walters at Mean Green Alternators explains a little deeper: “Copper wire must be magnetic grade, and the stator-slot insulation needs to be good for 200 degrees Celsius for high-output alternators, especially those used in diesel-powered vehicles, because of higher underhood temperature than a gas-powered pickup.”
An alternator generates a lot of heat as it produces amperage until auxiliary or weaker batteries are charged. Batteries don’t like excessive heat. The higher the ambient temperature of a battery, the less charging voltage and amperage it can take before it starts boiling the electrolytes inside.
A tightly wound, trapezoidal, hot-forged rotor is necessary for achieving higher amperage. “The rotor’s magnetic strength is determined by the amp draw multiplied by the number of turns in the coil,” Dave explains. “An even better low-engine rpm, high -output rotor is the permanent-magnet rotor, but it is more expensive to produce.”
See all 15 photos See all 15 photos The charge wire is very important, and its length and gauge must be scrutinized. Powermaster Motorsports’ Todd Ryden says, “As current requirements to support the demands of accessories and added electrical components grow, the gauge of the charge wire needs to fatten up to support the output of a larger alternator.” “One-aught,” or 1/0 wire (far left), is ideal for the charge wire on alternators producing more than 250 amps.
Clean Wiring Is Critical Upgrading to a higher-output alternator requires replacing the power and ground cables to the battery with heavier-gauge cable to accommodate the higher amp flow. In most diesel applications, this means running 1/0 AWG flexible copper (4,704 strands) or 2/0 CCA (copper-clad aluminum) cable on alternators producing more than 240 amps. It’s also prudent to replace the drive belt and clean or replace all the terminal ends.
“Providing a ground from the alternator housing directly to the engine block or battery ground is becoming a necessity with higher outputs,” says Powermaster’s Todd Ryden. He also suggests replacing ground straps if the pickup is more than a decade old, including chassis and body/firewall grounds. If the batteries are more than five years old, they should also be replaced.
Todd also says powdercoated and anodized aluminum brackets, which are becoming very popular, sometimes do not provide an adequate ground. That’s why all grounding surfaces need to be clean and the metal bare, ring terminals need to tightly fit the bolts or fasteners, and star washers need to be used instead of lock washers for best contact. Taking these steps will maximize the circular current flow and help reduce the work the alternator has to do to keep the batteries charged.
If your truck is in need of being amped up, we’ve listed a few of the premium high-output alternators to help speed up your search. Stepping up to any of these will be a big boost and keep your truck’s batteries topped off under demanding conditions.
See all 15 photos See all 15 photos Running a high-output alternator (or dual alternators) does little good if the cabling and connections between the alternator and the batteries is improperly done. New batteries and fine-strand cables of the correct gauge are critical to maximizing alternator performance.
See all 15 photos See all 15 photos After installing a high-output alternator, Mechman techs recommend doing a “charge-path test” of both the ground and power circuits. Voltage measurements on both tests should show less than 0.1 volt. If the reading is higher, there’s a problem with the integrity of ground and/or power connections. (Illustration courtesy of Mechman Alternators)
See all 15 photos See all 15 photos GM uses special inductive load sensors attached to the ground cables between the alternator and batteries. The ring-type sensors must be reinstalled on the heavier-gauge battery cable when upgrading to a higher-output alternator, as this Mechman illustration shows.
See all 15 photos See all 15 photos American Power Systems (APS) builds a wide range of high-output alternators and brackets for ’10-and-newer Ford, Ram, and GM diesels. One example is the 360HPI-EF67-12WV, which makes 360 amps, for the ’17-to-present Ford Super Duty with single or dual alternators.
See all 15 photos See all 15 photos Powermaster’s 48787 alternator is a direct bolt-in upgrade for Ford’s older 7.3L Power Stroke engine. It produces 130 amps at idle and 200 at the top end. Powermaster, which offers high-output alternators for a wide range of vehicles, dyno-tests every alternator at its West Chicago, Illinois, manufacturing plant.
See all 15 photos See all 15 photos Mean Green’s custom high-output alternators, which the company says produce more than 300 amps at 6,000 rpm alternator-shaft speed, are direct bolt-on replacements for stock single- and dual-alternator setups. From left to right: MG1398HD (Ram 6.7L), MG8247HD (GM 6.6L), and MG8306HD (Ford 6.7L).
See all 15 photos See all 15 photos This exact-fit, high-output alternator from PowerBastards is designed specifically for ’11-to-’16 Ford diesels. It is said to deliver 150 amps at idle and 300-plus amps at full output. The brand-new unit uses the same mounts and electrical connections as the stock alternator.
See all 15 photos See all 15 photos Mechman Alternators offers custom-built, high-output alternators that can deliver up to 370 amps in some applications. Their 300-plus–amp Elite and S Series Billet-Tech units for Ford, Ram, Chevrolet, and GMC fullsize diesels are manufactured using the latest technology and components.
See all 15 photos See all 15 photos Sinister Diesel high-output alternators for late-model Ford Power Stroke, Cummins, and Duramax engines are available with up to 250 amps of output in some applications, featuring an upgraded high-amperage regulator, stator, and high-temp bearings (select models). All are available with either a powdercoated or anodized Sinister Blue billet cover.
See all 15 photos See all 15 photos If your late-model Ram, Ford, or GM diesel needs an upgrade to dual alternators, Nation’s Starter Alternator offers kits for all three. Packages include a waterjet-cut, powdercoated, 3/8-inch steel plate and 280XP High-Amp Alternator (200 amps at idle), a GM idler pulley, Gates Green Stripe serpentine belt, and all wiring and mounting hardware for clean and trouble-free installation.
Power Pulleys If you don’t need more amp output but want more amps available at idle and low engine rpm, the easy upgrade is swapping the factory pulley for a smaller-diameter “power” pulley. Installing a smaller-diameter pulley on the alternator shaft speeds up the rpm of the armature so more amps are produced at that engine rpm. A higher alternator speed also helps its internals cool better under load because its cooling fan is spinning faster. (The typical “high-output” aftermarket alternators utilize a power pulley.)
See all 15 photos See all 15 photos
Most Ford, Ram, and GM vehicles use alternator pulleys with diameters of 2¼-, 2 3/8-, 2½- or 2 7/16 inches. Replacing one of those with a 1 7/8 or 2-inch pulley increases the alternator’s shaft rpm for a given engine speed, thus increasing the output without needing to increase engine-idle rpm.
To determine the amperage output of your diesel’s alternator, divide the diameter of the crankshaft pulley by the diameter of the alternator pulley. Then multiply that number by engine rpm. For example, a 6-inch crank pulley with a 2-inch alternator pulley gives a 3:1 ratio. If the engine is idling at 800 rpm, the alternator shaft is spinning at 2,400 rpm, and at 1,800 engine rpm, the shaft is spinning at 5,400 rpm with that pulley combination.
Battery Isolators Battery isolators on vehicles equipped with an auxiliary battery are very popular (they facilitate starting an engine using a rig’s primary battery, in the event the second cell is dead). However, installing an inline isolator isn’t a good idea with today’s diesel pickups.
“Depending on the design of the isolator, there can be as much as a 1-volt drop in charging voltage going through the isolator,” says Mechman Alternator’s Matthew Logan. “That small drop in voltage freaks out the RVC (GM) systems with inductive load sensors on the battery cables the computer uses to control the voltage regulator.”
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