Top 34 How To Knit Intarsia In The Round The 81 Correct Answer

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Knit your RS row as usual to the end of the round, then W&T (Wrap and turn) the first stitch of the round. Knit a WS row to the wrapped stitch. Pick up the wrap and knit it with the stitch, then W&T the last stitch of the round. Continue until your colorwork is done, then return to regular knitting in the round.

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What is the difference between Fair Isle and intarsia knitting?

At its most basic, the difference lies in where the colors are in your pattern. If the colors run across the width of your knitting, you’ll be working stranded, or Fair Isle knitting. If the colors are more blocked off, and don’t show up throughout the row, then you’ll be doing intarsia knitting.

How do you prevent gaps in intarsia?

With intarsia, you use a color only for as long as it’s needed, twist that yarn around the next color to prevent a gap, then continue along the row with the new color, leaving the original color behind.

Is knitting in the round difficult?

Knitting in the round is one of the easiest techniques to master. And here’s the good news: once you learn it, you probably won’t want to go back to regular flat needles.

How to knit intarsia in the round – Step by step tutorial

Working Intarsia in the Round – YouTube

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Jogless Color Change in circular knitting. - YouTube — Jogless Color Change in circular knitting. – YouTube

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A simple fix for uneven intarsia - tidy the stitches near a color change - YouTube — A simple fix for uneven intarsia – tidy the stitches near a color change – YouTube

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A step-by-step tutorial on knitting intarsia in the round without a seam using double-pointed needles

Instructions How to knit intarsia in the round

How to knit intarsia in the round - Step by step tutorial [+video] — How to knit intarsia in the round – Step by step tutorial [+video]

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Intarsia in the Round : Two Sides – Two Points

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Knitting Daily Workshop Intarsia InDepth Advanced Techniques with Anne Berk Video Download

Knitting Daily Workshop Inside Intarsia with Anne Berk Video Download

How to knit intarsia in the round

I’m a big fan of colorwork knitting, especially stranded, but there are times when you want a single, non-repeating, bold color motif: intarsia.

Intarsia is a colorwork technique where a single strand of yarn is used to create a patch of color. When knitting flat, you knit with the main color, then knit your little patch of contrast, and end the row with the main color, continuing the pattern as you knit back on the wrong side.

When knitting in the round, the problem with intarsia is that every row is a right side row. So, when you come back to your colorwork patch, the yarn end you’re knitting with is on the other end of the patch.

Some resources claim intarsia in the round is impossible, requiring many cuts in the yarn for each row. But you don’t have to do it!

Let start.

For a few stitches, you could make a float or use a separate strand of contrasting color for each row. But for a large design, you’ll need to figure out a way to get back to the end of the patch where the yarn is.

The answer is that you’ll have to work wrong side rows.

Generally, most intarsia in the round techniques are ways of knitting flat and seaming as you go. But I don’t like seaming (and you don’t like it too; otherwise you wouldn’t be here!), so I searched for different ways to do it.

I found two methods, both valid.

W&T – Wrap and turn

Knit your RS row as usual to the end of the round, then W&T (Wrap and turn) the first stitch of the round.

Knit a WS row to the wrapped stitch. Pick up the wrap and knit it with the stitch, then W&T the last stitch of the round.

Continue until your colorwork is done, then return to regular knitting in the round.

My thought: this technique is evident on the fabric surface.

YO, SSK, and P2tog – Yarn Over, Slip slip knit, and Purl 2 together.

YO at the beginning of the first RS intarsia row, then knit as usual to the last stitch.

SSK the last stitch with the YO from the beginning of the round.

Turn, YO then knit the WS row to the last stitch.

P2tog the last stitch with the YO from the beginning of the round.

Continue until your colorwork is done, then return to regular knitting in the round.

My thought: none of the YO passes in front of the round stitch, so this method is much less visible.

Ps: here a great YouTube video for it.

Here are the two intarsias in the round techniques; what do you prefer?

How to knit intarsia in the round

A step-by-step tutorial on knitting intarsia in the round without a seam using double-pointed needles.

Intarsia is a great way to transfer pictures and other complex designs into knitting. But there is one major flaw: You need to knit it flat. Knit it in the round, and your bobbins will always be in the wrong place as you start your new round. They will still be dangling down on the far end of the color block, and not at the beginning, where you actually need them. So, in this tutorial, I want to present you with a solution on how to knit intarsia in the round nevertheless.

Before I start, I want to urge you to read my intarsia knitting guide and my list of 10 important tips for advanced intarsia knitting. All the basic principles of this amazing technique apply to knitting in the round as well. There are just a couple of additional things you need to take into account. Also, check out my tutorial on knitting in the round on DPNs. I will concentrate strictly on the intarsia specifics in this post and not touch on more basic techniques.

I also want to stress that this is a very advanced technique and I’m not entirely sure it’s suitable for knitting beginners. While the basics are in fact quite simple, it’s quite difficult to achieve neat results with it. And when you are knitting more complex patterns, then it’s incredibly hard to manage all the yarns.

Note: If you are looking for a fun intarsia pattern, check out my love socks or my cherry blossom socks. If you are wondering if this technique is right for you, here’s a guide exploring the differences between Intarsia and Fair Isle knitting.

Explaining the technique

Note: I earn a small commission for purchases made through links in this article.

The dilemma: The bobbins end up in the wrong place after you finished a round

I already quickly touched on the more general problem in the introduction: When you knit across a round, all your bobbins end up on the left side of their respective color blocks. But as you start the next round, you need them to be on the right side. There is only one way to solve this: You need to knit back and forth!

There are three ways to do this:

By creating provisional joins By slipping stitches of the background color as you knit the color blocks and thereby creating floats (a bit like in fair isle) By using a “seaming” technique to hide the point where you changed directions.

(And of course, you can knit flat and join in the round using mattress stitch.)

I am only going to show you version 1) in this tutorial, because it’s the only technique that produces consistent results in my opinion. Plus it can be applied to almost any pattern. It’s also the only truly seamless way to knit intarsia in the round.

Important: Knitting intarsia in the round works best with a double-pointed needle set (I am using these Knitter’s Pride Dreams DPNs*)

Instructions: How to knit intarsia in the round Print Intarsia in the round works best when you create provisional joins and knit both the right and the wrong side. It can be a bit fiddly but it creates a truly seamless experience. Active Time 15 minutes Total Time 15 minutes Materials Any yarn works. I am using the Schachenmayr Catania Grande in this tutorial Tools Any type of needle. I am using the Knitter’s Pride Dreamz here Instructions Start a new color block by weaving in a new yarn (color B) as normal (you can also use Twist & Weave).

Continue knitting according to your chart/to the end of the color block.

Once you reach the end of the block, you need to turn the project around and create a provisional join. To do so, bring the tail of the previous color forth from the start of the color block, and twist it like you normally would. In that manner, you’ll create a little loop of yarn.

Continue by purling one stitch in the other direction. Then, enlarged the loop in color A generously by gently tugging at it. You’ll need this loop for knitting later on.

From here, you can continue purling all the way back to the start of the color block, ignoring the loop in color A for now.

Once you reach the end of the color block, you pick up the loop you created in color A, twist the yarns as usual (so pick it up from underneath).

Continue purling the wrong side with color A until you reach the other end of the color block where you created the provisional join.

Before you reach the end of the color block in color A, you have to untwist the yarns by pulling the bobbin/different color through the loop.

Finish the color block in color A, and close the provisional join by pulling on the working yarn.

From here, turn the project around again, and create another loop/provisional join by placing the working end of color B between the yarn and your working yarn.

Things should look like this now:

Continue knitting all the way back to the start of the color block in color A, ignoring thes loop in color B for now.

Pick up color B again and twist the yarns as usual.

Continue knitting across the color block with yarn B, making sure to pass the bobbin in color A through the loop before you reach the end.

Once you reach the end of the color block, close the provisional join by pulling on the working yarn.

Turn the work around, create another provisional join, and continue repeating steps 3-15 until you reached the desired length.

Notes In a nutshell, this technique boils down to knitting back and forth and creating provisional twists/joins before you reach the actual point in your chart. Half of the time, you will be knitting with the yarn of the loop and not the actual working yarn.

How to create diagonal color transition with the intarsia in the round technique

. If you are using a magic loop , then I advise knitting with two circular needles. As you are working back and forth, you absolutely need to make sure your purls and knits have the same tension. Knitting backwards can be a smart solution for skilled knitters in this case.

Now, I showed you the basic technique and it should be pretty straightforward once you completed a couple of rounds. But how do you enlargen or shorten a color block? Let’s say you want to knit a diamond or an argyle intarsia pattern in the round. Of course, you can do this as well but it’s a bit more complicated compared to flat knitting as you have to find the correct timing for a neat join/transition.

#1 Enlargening a color block

The best spot to make any given color block wider by one stitch is at the end of one full intarsia in the round repeat. Meaning after you finished knitting across the right side with yarn A.

Step 1: At the end of a knit round, simply knit one stitch less in color A. Then twist the yarns as usual.

Step 2: Pick up color B and start the color block one stitch earlier.

Step 3: Knit across the color block as usual, close the provisional join as before, knit one more stitch, turn the work around, and create another provisional join by twisting color A around the working yarn.

#2 Making a color block narrower

If you want to reduce the size of a color block, it works the other way round. You should start it right when you purl across the return row in color B.

Step 1: Purl one less stitch in the return row in color B. Twist the yarn and pick up color A.

Step 2: Finish purling across, close the provisional join by tugging at the working yarn. Then purl one more stitch.

Step 3: Turn the work around, create a provisional join for color B, and knit across the right side in color A.

#3 Faster color transitions with more than one stitch

Diminishing any given color block by one stitch is somewhat easy. If you want to decrease a color panel faster than this, meaning by 2 or more stitches, you have to create a float before you can do that – otherwise you will end up with super wonky joins.

Step 1: One round before the color change, create a float by twisting the yarns at the position where you want to switch

Step 2: Bring up the next color from below and twist them as normal.

I do have to warn you, though. It takes a lot of experience and very even tension to achieve consistent and neat results with such fast color changes. I would only use them sparingly.

Problems you should be aware of

This technique works totally fine as long as you only knit squares in a single color. But as you probably want to knit some more complex intarsia patterns in the round, there are some issues you need to be aware of:

1. Knitting diagonally can be a challenge

My Love Stocks

When you want to knit a diamond or a heart, then you have to enlarge or decrease your color block by a stitch every round or two. But here’s the problem: In the return row, this means you might have to knit stitches in a different color you actually have not knitted yet.

You can fix some of these problems with slipped stitches to a certain degree (meaning, in the row before, you are not knitting the first sitch after you turned the project, but just slip it).

When you are plotting your chart, make sure you don’t have any color decreases or increases that you cannot knit. A simple way to solve this problem is only decreasing or increasing every second row.

2. When you have more than two colors, things can become very complex

I showed you how to knit intarsia in the round with two colors. Obviously, you can add further colors and you can actually knit across these and set the turning point at the very end. You only need to decide on one “background-color” and use the edges as the places where you create the provisional joins and turn the work. So, that’s kind of sweet.

But when that background color block ends (for whatever reason), you need to plan where you do the turns in the next row.

3. Purls with a different tension will mess up your project

A lot of English knitters have tremendous problems with their purls. They are just so much loser than their knit stitch equivalents. It’s fundamental that you practice your purls before you start with knitting intarsia in the round. Otherwise, your final project will look quite a bit wonky. If you want to learn how to purl the continental way, read my purl stitch tutorial here.

4. Don’t be tempted to mix in Fair Isle floats

Sometimes, you end up with very small color blocks where you might think: Hey, I can use the same bobbin for the next block as well by bridging the gap with a float. Don’t! Even if you are a proficient Fair Isle knitter and really know how to create the perfect floats, they will still leave that portion of the fabric a bit puckered. This, together with the fact that the entire technique is already a bit difficult, spells out disaster. I tried and tried it again and again, but I was never able to get it right. I mean, go ahead, try it, but don’t expect a perfect result.

5. Use lifelines

Frogging intarsia is already quite a nightmare because of all the twists. But frogging intarsia in the round is even worse because of all that knitting back and forth. You will end up with a mistake eventually. But if you frog it, you will soon notice that it’s almost impossible to frog it one row at a time. It’s very easy to accidentally pull on a twist and frog one additional row of a color block.

So, either use lifelines every 10 rows or so or reverse knit. Everything else runs the risk of ruining your whole work.

Anyway, That’s how you knit intarsia in the round. feel to Comment below in case you still have any questions.

Intarsia in the Round : Two Sides – Two Points

We asked for questions to make sure this content is meeting your needs and you responded! Thank you!

Carol asked about intarsia in the round and whether we know any tricks to make it work. She mentioned that she has tried it by slipping the stitches of one color, then knitting backwards to work the other color. Great question!

The simple answer is that intarsia doesn’t work in the round within the essential definitions of Intarsia or Circular Knitting. It always requires an adaptation that makes the whole process a hybrid of either one or both techniques. That being said, if you’re up for it, GO FOR IT!

Intarsia can be described as blocks of color created by adding a separate source of yarn anywhere there is a boundary between two colors; the result being that no yarn is carried across the back of the work. Each area of color is independent of any other. When you finish a block of color on the right side of the work, that piece of working yarn stays at the left-hand edge of the block of color. That’s great, because when you turn the fabric around to the wrong side, the left-hand edge of the block of color becomes the right-hand edge and the working yarn for each color is perfectly positioned for picking up to continue across on that wrong side row.

Circular Knitting can be described as always working on the same side of the fabric, with no seam or edge in the fabric; the fabric created being continuous tube with no break in the working yarn.

Here’s the rub: When attempting intarsia in the round, beginning the color design seems to work just fine. Attach a new color and off you go. Attach another new color and continue on. The problem comes when on the next round: when you get to the first block of color, there is no working yarn waiting for you. It’s stuck where it landed on the left-hand side of the stitches worked in that color and is not available for you to use to knit that section.

In order to work it in strictly the round, you’d have to pull the yarn across the back of the work to where your needles currently are, twist it around the other color, then work across, leaving it stuck on the other edge yet again, necessitating the same move on the next round. But then that leaves your original yarn stuck in the wrong place and leaves long floats across the back of the work, which don’t look nice, and would inevitably snag and/or be difficult to keep tensioned properly thereby causing the color blocks to pucker and tighten.

If you are completely inspired to add intarsia to something you really, really don’t want to sew up, it can be done, but not without some flexibility of mind in terms of definitions. Grab some yarn and needles and work along with the instructions below to get the hang of it.

The first was already mentioned by Carol and involves slipping and turning to purl OR knitting backwards each time you come to a color section.

At the first block of color, instead of knitting it, slip purlwise all the stitches of that color, until you get to the working yarn for that section. Work the stitches of the color block in the opposite direction (or TURN and purl the stitches on the wrong side). Twist the yarns. On the right side, slip purlwise all the stitches of the color section again. Repeat each time you come to a new color. On the next round, work as usual.

As you can imagine, this has you going back and forth several times within a round, and it doesn’t work well at all if there is only one intarsia section on a plain background. It also gets quite fiddly if the charted design isn’t fairly simple and geometric.

The second method is really knitting flat, but “seams” the work as you go so it becomes a tube as you’re knitting rather than needing to be sewn after the knitting is complete.

Work the first row of the pattern, adding in all yarns needed for intarsia color sections. At the round marker, instead of continuing on, turn the work. You’ll now be working on the wrong side. Make a backwards YO before working the round. Work around on the wrong side, working intarsia sections as they appear and according to the chart or instructions. At the round marker, work the last stitch of the round together with the YO. Turn the work. Repeat steps 3-6.

There is a third method very like the second, but instead of a YO at the beg/end of round, work a wrap and turn. This of course will leave a visible wrap on the right side, unless you hide the wrap on a subsequent round, and mechanically, working the second method has the same end result, so I’d recommend that one.

Gwen and I find it interesting that there are techniques that seem to go hand in hand, such as intarsia and flat knitting or stranded knitting and working in the round. Intrepid knitters do like to push the envelope though, and if you feel confident going for intarsia in the round and making one of these methods work for you, we hope this information will get you started!

So you have finished reading the how to knit intarsia in the round topic article, if you find this article useful, please share it. Thank you very much. See more: how to knit a motif on a jumper, intarsia in the round with invisible join, intarsia colorwork knitting, crochet intarsia in the round, nimble needles intarsia, back of intarsia knitting, intarsia knitting letters, knitting intarsia patterns

Top 34 How To Knit Intarsia In The Round The 81 Correct Answer

What is the difference between Fair Isle and intarsia knitting?

How do you prevent gaps in intarsia?

Is knitting in the round difficult?

Working Intarsia in the Round – YouTube

Jogless Color Change in circular knitting. – YouTube

A simple fix for uneven intarsia – tidy the stitches near a color change – YouTube

How to knit intarsia in the round – Step by step tutorial [+video]

Intarsia in the Round : Two Sides – Two Points

Boost Your Knitting: Intarsia in the Round – Modern Daily Knitting

Intarsia in the Round: The Cube Socks | Knitting | Interweave

Knitting How-To: Working Intarsia in the Round (A Video Tutorial) — Arnall-Culliford Techniques

How to knit intarsia in the round

How to knit intarsia in the round

Intarsia in the Round : Two Sides – Two Points

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