Top 20 How To Bleed Brakes On A Gmc Sierra 16213 People Liked This Answer

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How do you bleed a GM ABS brake system?

Do you bleed brakes with truck running or off?

With the vehicle on level ground and with the car NOT running, apply and release the brake pedal several times until all clearances are taken up in the system. During this time, the brake pedal feel may improve slightly, but the brake pedal should be at least as firm as it was prior to the bleeding process.

Can you get air out of brake lines without bleeding?

Start your car’s engine and press on each brake pedal 20 times to push any excess air out of the system (it will take less effort than before because there is no more air in the lines).

Do you bleed ABS brakes with engine running?

Factory bleeding procedures for the ABS system and for brake fluid replacement both require the motor to be run at specific points in the bleeding procedure. The can be done by starting the engine and letting it run for a minute or so, or by hooking up a computer to the car and commanding the motor to run.

Do you have to bleed ABS module?

If you felt that the brake pedal is so spongy or soft, then this is the first sign that your ABS module and the whole braking system need to be bled to get rid of the excess air in the brake system. This may occur some problems to the ABS system or it may get weaker.

Do I have to bleed all four brakes if I change one caliper?

Answer provided by. Yes, many car experts recommend that you bleed all four brakes once you open one of the brake lines to replace a caliper or do other work. However, this is not a hard-and-fast rule, particularly if the brake line you are having work done to is independent of the other lines.

Have a full brake pedal when engine is off but goes to floor when running?

If the brake pedal goes to the floor but still stops, you could be having a failed brake power booster. The power booster’s role in the braking process is to give power assistance when the driver depresses the pedal. This means that you don’t have to make a very high amount of power to stop the car.

Do you bleed brakes with master cylinder cap off?

The master- cylinder cap should be removed during brake bleeding. The correct sequence of bleeds must be followed. Some cars require a different order than others, so you bleed the brake furthest away from the master cylinder.

How do you bleed brakes step by step?

Can one person bleed brakes?

Gravity is the simplest one-person brake bleeding method. Attach the hose to the bleed screw, open it up, and watch old brake fluid and air flow out of the lines like water through the Aqua Virgo aqueduct on the way to Rome. These inexpensive Bleed-O-Matic type setups work well.

Why can’t I get brake fluid to my back brakes?

If there are no brake fluid pressure rear brakes, check for the pipes that deliver brake fluid to the rear brakes. Sometimes these pipes are exposed to corrosion that makes them have holes and leak the brake fluid. This makes the rear wheels not bleed air, and make no pressure on the rear wheels.

How do you bleed your brakes?

How to Bleed Brakes GMC Sierra 2500HD Duramax HD 1080p – YouTube

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Bleeding ABS Brakes: GM Chevy Silverado Vehicles

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Bleeding an ABS module with different methods – Brakes won’t bleed – FIXED! – YouTube

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How To Bleed Brakes The Right Way | Brakes-shop.com

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Why Bleed the Brakes

Brake Fluid Selection

How-To

Supplies Required

Vehicle Preparation and Support

Bleeding Process

Vehicle Wrap-Up and Road Test

How Often do I Need to Bleed My Brakes

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how to bleed brakes on a gmc sierra

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Page Not Found – GM-Trucks.com

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2021 GMC Sierra 1500 Brake Service Tools | Bleeding, Caliper — CARiD.com

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ABS Bleeding Procedures for Common GM Vehicles

By Larry Carley, Babcox Technical Editor

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Bleeding the brakes after brake components have been replaced is a step you don’t want to skip if you want a firm brake pedal. Air trapped in the lines, calipers or wheel cylinders will make the pedal feel soft and spongy. Air is compressible, so when the brakes are applied any air bubbles in the system must first be compressed before the hydraulic fluid will transmit pressure to apply the brakes. As a rule, the brake circuits on most vehicles with anti-lock brakes can be bled in the usual manner — provided no air has gotten into the ABS modulator assembly. If the only components you replaced were downstream of the modulator (calipers, wheel cylinders, brake hoses or lines), chances are normal bleeding procedures will clear the lines of any unwanted air.

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Brakes can be bled manually, with a power bleeder, injector tool or vacuum bleeder. It doesn’t make any difference which method you use as long as all the lines and components are flushed with enough fluid to remove any trapped air bubbles or air pockets. The most common bleeding procedure is to bleed the brake furthest from the master cylinder first, then bleed the other brake that shares the same hydraulic circuit (which may be the other rear brake on a rear-wheel drive car or truck, or the opposite front brake on a front-wheel drive car or minivan).

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After these have been bled, you then bleed the other brake circuit starting with the furthest brake from the master cylinder. Always refer to the vehicle manufacturer’s recommended bleeding sequence as this may vary from one application to another depending on how the system is configured. Look Before You Leap

But what if you replaced the master cylinder, a brake line or valve ahead of the ABS modulator? Or, what if you had to replace the modulator or high pressure accumulator? Now you have a more difficult job ahead of you. Air can be very difficult to remove from an ABS modulator assembly because of all the nooks and crannies inside the unit. The modulator may have eight to 10, or more, ABS/traction control solenoid valves, plus various check valves and dead-end ports. Some ABS modulators have special bleed screws to help you vent the trapped air when bleeding the system. Others do not and require the use of a scan tool to cycle the ABS solenoids while you bleed the system.

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To better understand what may be required, let’s look at some bleeding procedures for some common General Motors ABS systems. The Delco ABS-VI System

Introduced in 1991 as an option on Saturn, Buick Skylark, Oldsmobile Cutlass Calais and Pontiac Grand Am models, the Delco ABS-VI anti-lock brake system has been used on a wide range of General Motors front-wheel-drive vehicles, including Chevrolet Lumina and APV, Chevrolet Beretta, Corsica and Cavalier, Pontiac Grand Prix, Sunbird, Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme and Buick Regal. The Delco VI system is a nonintegral ABS system with a conventional master brake cylinder and power booster. It has four wheel-speed sensors, but is a three-channel system. The front brakes are controlled separately, but the rear brakes share a common ABS circuit.

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Attached to the master cylinder is the hydraulic modulator and motor pack assembly. The modulator is held by two banjo bolts at the master cylinder’s two upper outlet ports, and two transfer tubes at the two lower outlet ports. An important service point to note here is that the two lower transfer tubes and O-rings must be replaced if the master cylinder and modulator are disconnected from one another. This is necessary to prevent leaks that could cause the brakes to fail. The modulator assembly has fluid chambers for all four brakes, two isolation solenoid valves, four check balls, a motor pack containing three bidirectional direct current motors with electromagnetic brakes (EMBs) and/or expansion spring brakes (ESBs), three ball screw assemblies, four pistons, a gear drive set and gear cover. The modulator motor pack, isolation solenoid valves, gear cover and individual gears are all serviceable parts and can be replaced separately.

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The brakes on GM cars equipped with Delco ABS-VI may be bled using manual, vacuum or pressure bleeding. The usual bleeding sequence is right rear, left rear, right front, left front. Bleeding a Delco ABS-VI System

Before you begin, however, you must make sure the rear pistons in the Delco ABS-VI modulator are in the home position so the check balls are unseated. If this is not done, you won’t be able to bleed the rear brake lines. There are two ways that this can be accomplished:

With the Tech 1 or similar scan tool, select the F4 ABS Test mode, then select the F0 “manual control” option. You can now command the rear motor to drive the pistons to the home position.

Without a scan tool, open the front bleeder screw at the modulator. There are two, so be sure you open the front one. Then bleed the modulator. Close the screw, then bleed both front brakes starting with the right one first.

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After checking for a firm pedal, drive the vehicle above three miles per hour. The controller will automatically reset the system by commanding the rear motor to run to the home position. Once this has occurred, you can stop the vehicle and bleed the rear brakes. The Delphi DBC-7 ABS System

Introduced on 1999 Buick Regal and Century, and Chevrolet Tracker, the Delphi Brake Control (DBC) 7 ABS system is the successor to the Delco ABS-VI system. It replaced ABS-VI in 2000 on Chevrolet Impala, Monte Carlo, Malibu, Cavalier and Venture, Pontiac Sunfire and Montana, and Oldsmobile Cutlass and Silhouette. Unlike the earlier ABS-VI system, DBC-7 does not use motor driven plungers to cycle pressure in the brake lines. It uses solenoids like most other ABS systems. The Brake Pressure Modulator Valve has one inlet (apply) valve and one outlet (release) valve for each brake channel, plus two accumulators (one for each brake circuit).

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So the BPMV contains a total of six ABS valves for three channel system applications, eight ABS valves for four channel systems, or 10 ABS valves if the vehicle has TCS traction control. The inlet valves are normally open, and the outlet valves are normally closed. The solenoid for each valve is energized when the EBCM provides a ground to complete the circuit. The GM passenger car applications are all four-channel ABS systems, so each of the four BPMV outlets is

connected to the brake line for a separate wheel. The lines are color coded for identification:

• Left rear is purple;

• Right rear is yellow;

• Left front is red; and

• Right front is green.

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Bleeding a Delphi DBC-7 ABS Unit

Normal bleeding procedures can be used to bleed the individual brake lines provided no air has entered the ABS modulator. But if air has entered the modulator, the system will have to be bled using a pressure bleeder and scan tool:

1.Connect the pressure bleeder to the master cylinder reservoir. 2. Turn the ignition on. 3.With bleeder screws closed, pressurize the system to 35 psi. 4.Select the “Automatic Bleed Procedure” on the scan tool. The scan tool will then energize and cycle the ABS solenoids in the BPMV for one minute.

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After this, the scan tool will instruct you to bleed each wheel. During this step, the pump runs and the respective release valve cycles for one minute. This is repeated for each wheel. Finally, the scan tool performs a final 20 second cycling of the ABS solenoids to purge any remaining air. 5. Relieve pressure at the bleed tool and remove it from the master cylinder. Then check pedal height and feel to make sure all the air has been removed and the pedal is firm. The Bosch 5 ABS System

In 1995, Corvettes were equipped with a Bosch 5 ABS system, which replaced the previous Bosch ABS/ASR system. The Bosch 5 system was also used on 1996 to 1999 Chevy Caprice and Impala, Buick, Estate Wagon and Roadmaster, and Cadillac Deville, Eldorado, Fleetwood and Seville. The modulator assembly uses solenoids for each brake circuit, but there are no special bleeder valves or special scan tool bleed procedure. So the brakes can be bled conventionally. The sequence if right rear, left rear, right front and left front.

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Understanding Older, Integral ABS Systems

Integral ABS systems were discontinued long ago, but you may still encounter this type of ABS system on some older vehicles. The GM applications include the Delco III Powermaster system on 1989-91 Buick Regal, Oldsmobile Cutlass and Pontiac Grand Prix and GTU models. It is functionally similar to the Teves Mark 2, Bosch III and Bendix 9 and 10 ABS integral ABS systems used on older GM, Ford and Chrysler vehicles. Integral ABS systems use a high pressure pump and accumulator for power assisted braking as well as anti-lock braking. As a rule, the accumulator must be depressurized before doing any type of brake repair work. Some of these systems can produce pressures of up to 2,700 psi, so never open a brake line or attempt to replace any of the ABS hydraulic components until the accumulator has been fully depressurized.

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This is done by pumping the brake pedal firmly 40 times with the ignition off. After repairs have been made, the lines can be bled manually, with a conventional power bleeder, injector tool or vacuum bleeder. With all of these methods, leave the key off so the ABS pump does not pressurize the accumulator. Each of the brakes can then be bled in the usual manner following the sequence recommended by the vehicle manufacturer. On the GM cars, the usual sequence is right rear, left rear, right front and left front. If the master cylinder or ABS modulator has been replaced, or there is air in either unit, the ABS modulator will have to be bled using a specific procedure. On the older GM applications with the Powermaster III ABS system, here’s the recommended procedure:

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1. To bleed the isolation valves in the modulator, there are two bleeder screws. Start with the one toward the engine. Turn the ignition on and apply light pressure on the brake pedal. Open the bleeder screw and allow the fluid to flow until clear. Close the screw and do the same at the second bleeder screw. 2. Depressurize the accumulator by pumping the pedal 40 times with the key off. Wait about two minutes for the brake fluid to de-aerate, then refill the fluid reservoir with DOT 3 brake fluid. 3. Now you can bleed the boost section. This is done by applying moderate pressure on the brake pedal and turning the ignition on for three seconds, then off. Repeat this a total of 10 times. Make sure the pedal feels firm when you have finished, and give the car a road test to make sure the brakes are working properly.

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How To Bleed Brakes The Right Way

How To Bleed Brakes The Right Way

by John Comeskey of SPS and James Walker, Jr of scR motorsports.

The role of the brake fluid within the braking system is to transfer the force from the master cylinder to the corners of the car…and a vital characteristic of brake fluid that allows it to perform its task properly is its ability to maintain a liquid state and resist compression. In order to keep the fluid in top condition, many enthusiasts have been taught to “bleed their brakes” but many have never stopped to ask the question “why?”

Why Bleed the Brakes?

The term “bleeding the brakes” refers to the process in which a small valve is opened at the caliper (or wheel cylinder) to allow controlled amounts of brake fluid to escape the system. (When you think about it, “bleeding” may appear to be a somewhat graphic term, but it aptly describes the release a vital fluid.)

We bleed the brakes to release air that sometimes becomes trapped within the lines. Technically, “air” only enters the lines if there is a compromise of the system’s sealing (as when flex lines are removed or replaced), because when fluid boils, it will instead create “fluid vapor.” Vapor in the brake fluid, like air, will create an efficiency loss in the braking system. However, for the sake of simplicity we use the term “air” throughout this article to describe both air and fluid vapor.

When air (or vapor) becomes present within the lines, it creates inefficiencies within the system because, unlike liquid, air can be compressed. So when enough air fills the lines, input at the pedal merely causes the air to compress instead of creating pressure at the brake corners. In other words, when air is present within the system, the efficiency and effectiveness of the braking system is reduced. Usually, a small amount of air within the brake system will contribute to a “mushy” or “soft” pedal (since less energy is required to compress the air than is required to move fluid throughout the brake lines.) If enough air enters the brake system, it can result in complete brake failure.

So how does air enter the lines in the first place? Sometimes, it can be the result of a service procedure or an upgrade – such as replacing the stock flex lines with stainless steel braided lines. But often it is the result of high temperatures that cause brake fluid components to boil, thus releasing gasses from the boiling fluid into the brake hydraulic system.

Brake Fluid Selection

This leads one to contemplate the type of liquid that is used as brake fluid. In theory, even simple water would work – since, being a liquid, water cannot be compressed. However, it is important to remember that the fundamental function of the braking system is to convert kinetic energy into heat energy through friction. And the reality of this process is that certain parts of the braking system will be exposed to very high temperatures. In fact, it is not uncommon to see rotor temperatures during a race as high as 1200 degrees Fahrenheit – which can raise the temperature of the brake fluid to well over 300 degrees Fahrenheit. Since the boiling point of water is 212 degrees Fahrenheit, it is easy to see that water within the brake system could boil easily – and therefore release gases into the brake pipes – which would reduce the efficiency of the system. (Water would also present a big problem in cold weather if it froze to ice!)

The “obvious” solution to this problem is to utilize a fluid that is less sensitive to temperature extremes. Hence the development of “brake fluid.” However, there unfortunately is no such thing as a “perfect” brake fluid. And like most things in the world, the addition of certain beneficial characteristics usually brings tradeoffs in other areas. In the case of brake fluid, we generally must balance the fluid’s sensitivity to temperature against its cost and its impact upon other components within the system.

Stated more bluntly, it is possible to reduce a fluid’s sensitivity to temperature by varying the ingredients of the fluid. However, certain combinations of ingredients can significantly increase the cost of the fluid and may react with OEM materials to damage seals and induce corrosion throughout the braking system.

The chemical composition and minimum performance requirements of the fluid are generally indicated through a rating such as “DOT3,” DOT4,” or “DOT5.” The DOT-rating itself is assigned after a series of government tests. However, this rating is NOT intended to indicate boiling points, even though higher DOT ratings generally do correspond with higher boiling points. Perhaps more importantly, the DOT rating does indicate the base compound of the brake fluid – which allows manufacturers to specify fluid types which are less likely to react negatively to known materials used within a particular braking system.

The greatest irony about brake fluid, however, is the fact that the chemical compositions that tend to be less sensitive to temperature extremes also tend to attract and absorb water! So even though the fluid itself is unlikely to boil (most glycol-based DOT3 fluids have a “dry boiling point” around 400 degrees Fahrenheit,) the water that it absorbs over time tends to boil easily (at 212 degrees Fahrenheit.) It is this characteristic of absorbing moisture that leads to the measure known as the “wet boiling point.” The wet boiling point is the equilibrium boiling point of the fluid after it has absorbed moisture under specified conditions. Because brake fluid will absorb moisture through the brake system’s hoses and reservoir, evaluation of the wet boiling point is employed to test the performance of used brake fluid and the degradation in it’s performance. (And it is why we still need to bleed the brakes frequently on race cars, even though we use racing fluid that costs upwards of $75 per bottle!) The lesson: do NOT expect to avoid bleeding your brakes just because you bought expensive brake fluid.

As one might guess, “racing” fluids will use relatively “aggressive” chemical compositions which will tend to have higher wet boiling points and higher costs, while the average street fluids will use more conservative compositions which will have lower wet boiling points and lower costs. In some cases – such as a purpose-built racecar – the tradeoffs of using the expensive racing fluid is outweighed by the competitive advantages. But for the average driver – whose driving style is less likely to induce brake temps as high as those seen on the track – the costs of the fluids and potential wear-and-tear factors upon system components may justify the use of a more conservative fluid with a lower wet boiling point.

How-To

So, now that you understand the need behind bleeding your brakes, let us present just one procedure that can be utilized when servicing your own car. Note that unless you are replacing your master cylinder, the procedure is the same whether you have a vehicle equipped with ABS or not…

Supplies Required

You will need the following tools:

Box-end wrench suitable for your car’s bleeder screws. An offset head design usually works best.

Extra brake fluid (about 1 pint if you are just bleeding, about 3 if you are completely replacing).

12-inch long section of clear plastic tubing, ID sized to fit snugly over your car’s bleeder screws.

Disposable bottle for waste fluid.

One can of brake cleaner.

One assistant (to pump the brake pedal).

Vehicle Preparation and Support

Loosen the lug nuts of the road wheels and place the entire vehicle on jackstands. Be sure that the car is firmly supported before going ANY further with this procedure! Remove all road wheels. Install one lug nut backward at each corner and tighten the nut against the rotor surface. Note that this step is to limit caliper flex that may distort pedal feel. Open the hood and check the level of the brake fluid reservoir. Add fluid as necessary to ensure that the level is at the MAX marking of the reservoir. Do not let the reservoir become empty at any time during the bleeding process!

Bleeding Process

Begin at the corner furthest from the driver and proceed in order toward the driver. (Right rear, left rear, right front, left front.) While the actual sequence is not critical to the bleed performance it is easy to remember the sequence as the farthest to the closest. This will also allow the system to be bled in such a way as to minimize the amount of potential cross-contamination between the new and old fluid. Locate the bleeder screw at the rear of the caliper body (or drum brake wheel cylinder.) Remove the rubber cap from the bleeder screw – and don’t lose it! Place the box-end wrench over the bleeder screw. An offset wrench works best – since it allows the most room for movement. Place one end of the clear plastic hose over the nipple of the bleeder screw. Place the other end of the hose into the disposable bottle. Place the bottle for waste fluid on top of the caliper body or drum assembly. Hold the bottle with one hand and grasp the wrench with the other hand. Instruct the assistant to “apply.” The assistant should pump the brake pedal three times, hold the pedal down firmly, and respond with “applied.” Instruct the assistant not to release the brakes until told to do so. Loosen the bleeder screw with a brief ¼ turn to release fluid into the waste line. The screw only needs to be open for one second or less. (The brake pedal will “fall” to the floor as the bleeder screw is opened. Instruct the assistant in advance not to release the brakes until instructed to do so.) Close the bleeder screw by tightening it gently. Note that one does not need to pull on the wrench with ridiculous force. Usually just a quick tug will do. Instruct the assistant to “release” the brakes. Note: do NOT release the brake pedal while the bleeder screw is open, as this will suck air back into the system! The assistant should respond with “released.” Inspect the fluid within the waste line for air bubbles. Continue the bleeding process (steps 11 through 16) until air bubbles are no longer present. Be sure to check the brake fluid level in the reservoir after bleeding each wheel! Add fluid as necessary to keep the level at the MAX marking. (Typically, one repeats this process 5-10 times per wheel when doing a ‘standard’ bleed.) Move systematically toward the driver – right rear, left rear, right front, left front – repeating the bleeding process at each corner. Be sure to keep a watchful eye on the brake fluid reservior! Keep it full! When all four corners have been bled, spray the bleeder screw (and any other parts that were moistened with spilled or dripped brake fluid) with brake cleaner and wipe dry with a clean rag. (Leaving the area clean and dry will make it easier to spot leaks through visual inspection later!) Try to avoid spraying the brake cleaner DIRECTLY on any parts made of rubber or plastic, as the cleaner can make these parts brittle after repeated exposure. Test the brake pedal for a firm feel. (Bleeding the brakes will not necessarily cure a “soft” or “mushy” pedal – since pad taper and compliance elsewhere within the system can contribute to a soft pedal. But the pedal should not be any worse than it was prior to the bleeding procedure!) Be sure to inspect the bleeder screws and other fittings for signs of leakage. Correct as necessary. Properly dispose of the used waste fluid as you would dispose of used motor oil. Important: used brake fluid should NEVER be poured back into the master cylinder reservoir!

Vehicle Wrap-Up and Road Test

Re-install all four road wheels. Raise the entire vehicle and remove jackstands. Torque the lug nuts to the manufacturer’s recommended limit. Re-install any hubcaps or wheel covers. With the vehicle on level ground and with the car NOT running, apply and release the brake pedal several times until all clearances are taken up in the system. During this time, the brake pedal feel may improve slightly, but the brake pedal should be at least as firm as it was prior to the bleeding process. Road test the vehicle to confirm proper function of the brakes. USE CAUTION THE FIRST TIME YOU DRIVE YOUR CAR AFTER MODIFICATION TO ENSURE THE PROPER FUNCTION OF ALL VEHICLE SYSTEMS!

How Often do I Need to Bleed My Brakes?

In closing, here are a few rules of thumb to help you to determine the proper bleeding interval for your particular application:

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