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Contents
Can you make homemade suppressors?
Yes, it’s perfectly legal to build your own suppressor. Following the same process as you would to make a registered and legal short barreled rifle (SBR) or short barreled shotgun (SBS), you can build a device that will make your favorite gun quieter, have some fun and even learn a few things along the way.
How are suppressors built?
Suppressors are made using high-quality metal alloys such as titanium, aluminum alloy, or stainless steel. These materials are able to withstand the force of the expanding gases and cool them off, helping to suppress the sound.
What parts are needed to build a suppressor?
You’ll need raw materials, a lathe, a drill press, a welder, and some other things as well. Unless you already have these things, that can add up to quite a lot of extra costs. Another thing to consider with the cost is that there’s no warranty on a suppressor that you make yourself.
What materials are used to make suppressors?
A silencer is typically a hollow metal tube made from steel, aluminum, or titanium and contains expansion chambers. It is usually cylindrical in shape, and attaches to the muzzle of a pistol, submachine gun, or rifle.
Are suppressor kits legal?
California. Silencers are not legal in California. California is one of the states in which silencers have been banned.
Can you make a suppressor out of an oil filter?
Solvent trap and oil filters are now used as an alternate gun suppressor. Best thing is, it is way cheaper than the actual suppressor and you can do-it-yourself at home.
Can you form 1 a suppressor?
A Form 1 Suppressor is a suppressor, or silencer, that someone makes at home after receiving an approved Form 1 back from the ATF. A suppressor is one of the hardest NFA Firearms to make at home with a Form 1. This is because some level of machining is typically involved.
Can you buy a suppressor without a stamp?
Do you need a tax stamp for each suppressor? Yes, you do need to buy a tax stamp for each suppressor you buy. There are two ways to buy suppressors as an individual, and both ways will require a tax stamp with your purchase. You can either buy a suppressor from your FFL dealer, or you can make your own suppressor.
What is the difference between a suppressor and a silencer?
A suppressor does reduce some of the sound though. Nothing completely silences a gun, so technically silencer is an incorrect term, but it is used by the majority of the public. The simple answer is both words can be used interchangeably – meaning the terms Silencer and Suppressor refer to the exact same thing.
Are titanium suppressors worth it?
Are you going to be running and gunning, using the suppressor hard, and not treating it like a safe queen? Then no, titanium isn’t worth the extra cost because, while durable, titanium isn’t as beefy or as durable as stainless. It really all comes down to your specific needs and shooting conditions.
Do aluminum suppressors work?
Aluminum is a very light-weight material that works great in rimfire suppressors. In fact, some of the highest performing and lightest weight . 22 suppressors, like the SilencerCo Warlock II (only 3 ounces), are made from aluminum. Although it works great for .
Are titanium suppressors quieter?
The best suppressors are generally made of 100% titanium. Titanium is an ideal material for suppressors as it is both lightweight and works better than steel or aluminium at cooling hot muzzle gas. This, of course, makes for a quieter gun.
How long do suppressors last?
That means, on one hand, we can truthfully say “at least 100 years” but on the other hand, there are plenty of videos of people burning up suppressors on full-auto fire and destroying them in under ten thousand rounds.
Is a longer suppressor better?
Ultimately, over-barrel suppressors are designed for shooters who want a shorter rifle with less gas blowback and better handling, while end-barrel suppressors may be better for shooters who want a bit more sound suppression at the expense of added length and increased gas blowback.
How quiet is a suppressed 22?
22 Long Rifle. As expected, this smaller load had some of the lowest dB readings for the rifle calibers. The lowest average suppressed measurement of 119.34 dB came from firing 22LR Federal American Eagle Rimfire Suppressor 45gr.
What can I use instead of a silencer?
- Quiet . 22 Rimfire Alternatives. …
- Quiet . 22 Handguns. …
- Quiet Centerfire Loads. Although far from dead-quiet, some handgun calibers are much less noisy in bare rifle barrels. …
- Quiet Shotgun Solutions. I’ve written about how to reduce shotgun recoil. …
- Chamber Adapters. …
- Airguns as Alternatives. …
- Crossbows.
Can you form 1 a suppressor?
A Form 1 Suppressor is a suppressor, or silencer, that someone makes at home after receiving an approved Form 1 back from the ATF. A suppressor is one of the hardest NFA Firearms to make at home with a Form 1. This is because some level of machining is typically involved.
What is the difference between a suppressor and a silencer?
A suppressor does reduce some of the sound though. Nothing completely silences a gun, so technically silencer is an incorrect term, but it is used by the majority of the public. The simple answer is both words can be used interchangeably – meaning the terms Silencer and Suppressor refer to the exact same thing.
Can you 3D print a suppressor?
The short answer is yes, 3D printed suppressors work. Since the overall concept, manufacturing method, and materials used are all still relatively new, the longevity of 3D printed silencers is yet to be seen.
Build Your Own Silencer – Part 1 -The Firearm Blog
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An Inside Look at How Suppressors Work – Silencer Central
- Article author: www.silencercentral.com
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- Table of Contents:
How are Suppressors Made
How Does a Silencer Work
How Loud is Gunshot with a Silencer
Want to Learn More about How Silencers Work
Are Oil Filter Suppressors a Good Idea
Diagnosing Accuracy Problems
How to Buy a Suppressor
Shooting Down Seven Common Silencer Myths
How to Build a Suppressor (and why you probably shouldn’t) – Silencer Central
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- Most searched keywords: Whether you are looking for How to Build a Suppressor (and why you probably shouldn’t) – Silencer Central Updating WARNING: Do NOT start building your own suppressor until you have paid the $200 tax stamp and received the completed and approved Form 1 back from the ATF.
- Table of Contents:
Building a DIY Suppressor Isn’t as Easy as You Think
Still Want to Build a Suppressor Here’s What You Need to Do
Other Considerations
To Buy or Build For Most It’s No Question
An Inside Look at How Suppressors Work
How to Get a Suppressor Tax Stamp
NFA Wait Times Complete Guide 2022
How to Buy a Suppressor
Shooting Down Seven Common Silencer Myths
Silencer (firearms) – Wikipedia
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Contents
History[edit]
Terminology[edit]
Firearm noise anatomy[edit]
Design and construction[edit]
Characteristics[edit]
Effectiveness[edit]
Regulation[edit]
See also[edit]
References[edit]
External links[edit]
Navigation menu
Gunsmithing | Lathe and Mill for Suppressors | Practical Machinist – Largest Manufacturing Technology Forum on the Web
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- Summary of article content: Articles about Gunsmithing | Lathe and Mill for Suppressors | Practical Machinist – Largest Manufacturing Technology Forum on the Web When making the suppressor do all the threading on the lathe with a single point cutter, do not use taps or dies they are not accurate enough to … …
- Most searched keywords: Whether you are looking for Gunsmithing | Lathe and Mill for Suppressors | Practical Machinist – Largest Manufacturing Technology Forum on the Web When making the suppressor do all the threading on the lathe with a single point cutter, do not use taps or dies they are not accurate enough to … I’m in the market for a Lathe and Mill that I can used to build suppressors. The last time I turned anything on a lathe or used a mill was 20 years ago in…
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How to Build a Suppressor (and why you probably shouldn’t) – Silencer Central
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- Summary of article content: Articles about How to Build a Suppressor (and why you probably shouldn’t) – Silencer Central WARNING: Do NOT start building your own suppressor until you have pa the … You’ll need raw materials, a lathe, a drill press, a welder, and some other … …
- Most searched keywords: Whether you are looking for How to Build a Suppressor (and why you probably shouldn’t) – Silencer Central WARNING: Do NOT start building your own suppressor until you have pa the … You’ll need raw materials, a lathe, a drill press, a welder, and some other … WARNING: Do NOT start building your own suppressor until you have paid the $200 tax stamp and received the completed and approved Form 1 back from the ATF.
- Table of Contents:
Building a DIY Suppressor Isn’t as Easy as You Think
Still Want to Build a Suppressor Here’s What You Need to Do
Other Considerations
To Buy or Build For Most It’s No Question
An Inside Look at How Suppressors Work
How to Get a Suppressor Tax Stamp
NFA Wait Times Complete Guide 2022
How to Buy a Suppressor
Shooting Down Seven Common Silencer Myths
Build a Suppressor
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- Summary of article content: Articles about Build a Suppressor Longer baffles will need to be supported on the lathe by a steady rest (shown holding the baffle at near end). The tail stock holds the drill bit stationary and … …
- Most searched keywords: Whether you are looking for Build a Suppressor Longer baffles will need to be supported on the lathe by a steady rest (shown holding the baffle at near end). The tail stock holds the drill bit stationary and … Rob Robinette, robrobinette, suppressor, flash light, flashlight, Maglite, Maglight, filter, WIX 24003, NAPA 4003, cups, storage, silencer, how-to, remove flash hider, 300BLK, 300 AAC Blackout, Whisper, Fireball, 308How to Build a Suppressor
- Table of Contents:
9mm Tavor X95 With Suppressor
JBM Ballistics Bullet
Stability
Calculator
45ACP With Slow Burning Powder
9MM With Fast Burning Powder
22 Caliber Suppressor On Sig 1911-22
Baffle Cover & Baffle
MetalsDepotcom Order
Facing the Suppressor Baffle On the Lathe
Drill the Barrel Thread Tap Hole
Optional Boring For the Tap
Tap the Baffle Thread
Finish the Tap By Hand
Drilling the Bullet Path
Using An Extra Long Bullet Path Drill Bit For Long Suppressors
These are my favorite
books on the AR-15 M16 and M4
Drill the Baffle Gas Chambers
Milling the Baffle Gas Chambers
Clean the Bullet Path
The Finished Baffle
Welded Tube-to-Baffle Seal
Mounted 300BLK Suppressor
Finished 22 Baffle
Baffle Ready For Insertion
Completed 22 Suppressor
SBR 1022 & Suppressor
Ruger Precision Rimfire 22LR With All Aluminum Suppressor
Nothin’s more fun than long range subsonic 22 gong ringing Shooting from
the rear upper deck and the family doesn’t even notice
Another
Ruger 1022 with Suppressor
The 22 suppressor installed on my Ruger 1022 with
threaded 16 bull barrel This rifle also has a
Volquartsen
Target Hammer and
JG Bolt Lock
Suppressor On Sig 1911-22
Since this 22 pistol uses blow back to function it will cycle
with this no-booster suppressor mounted Most semi-auto pistols are recoil
operated and require a spring & piston booster to decouple the suppressor from the
barrel to function A pistol with its short barrel is typically louder than a
rifle of the same caliber so I run my longer 7 suppressor on pistols
Flashlight and
Filter Suppressors
If you have a BATFE Form 1 and tax stamp you can legally build a suppressor using ebay flashlight and filter suppressors
(This may no longer be true The BATFE recently ruled on using flashlight and
filter suppressor kits so check with the BATFE before building one)
You typically buy an aluminum threaded tube with two end caps One end cap is
threaded to screw onto the barrel muzzle The other cap will either have a hole
pre-drilled or be solid and ready for you to drill to the bullet path diameter
There are even lightweight titanium flashlight and filter tubes available on
ebay Complete suppressor kits may be found on Walmartcom (online only)
Aliexpresscom and Banggoodcom The kits include the aluminum tube
threaded end cap filter cup baffles spacer and end cap Just drill the cups
and end cap using the bullet path size drill bit and you’re done The spacer creates the blast chamber at the
barrel end of the suppressor Search for 12-28 filter or 58-24 filter
It’s super easy to complete these kits but you can still do hard prison time if
you don’t have a Form 1 and tax stamp
You can purchase C Cell Maglite tubes that have a
1 inside diameter and can be purchased with a pre-threaded 12×28 end cap
These work well as 22LR suppressors An ebay search for C Cell tube 12×28 or
C Cell storage cups or C Cell filter cups will work Dorman 555-097
steel freeze plugs are 1 in diameter and should fit
C Cell Tube
One end cap is threaded for 22LR at 12×28
There are also D Cell Maglite tubes that are
suitable for up to 308 Winchester (subsonic only) which can be purchased with many different
barrel threads For 308 or 300 Blackout you need a 58×24 thread An ebay search of
D Cell tube or D Cell solvent trap or
D Cell storage cups or D Cell filter cups will work I
have also seen D cell Maglite M baffles referred to as D Cell hiking stick
storage cups The tubes have a
1350 inside diameter NAPA Sealed Power SEP 381-3179 steel freeze plugs fit
The larger diameter NAPA 4003 and WIX 24003 filters can be
purchased with various barrel threads An ebay search of 4003 filter 58×24 or
4003 filter cups will find them They’re probably good only up to 308
Winchester but I’ve never tried a more powerful cartridge so I’m not sure These filters have a 9
internal length The inside diameter is either 18 or 175 Real NAPA or WIX
filters have a 18 inside diameter Some
of the ebay clone filters have an inside diameter of 175 so verify what you
have before you order freeze plugs or filter cups The Dorman 555-098 freeze
plug is 177×44 and will fit in the real NAPA or WIX 18 filters The Dorman
555-034 freeze plug is 175 in diameter and 43 thick and fit well in the
175
clone filters
4003 Filter
This filter comes with an end cap threaded for 308 or 300
Blackout at 58×24
To build a flashlight or filter suppressor you may need to
make baffles Dorman steel automotive freeze plugs can be formed into
baffles with some work and the cost is low at about 80 cents each Call
ahead and most auto parts stores can get you a box of 10 overnight With a lathe
you can spin the plugs and center drill a 316 hole Drill from the cupped end
so the concave shape will keep the drill bit centered Then place the plug over
a wrench socket that fits and use a large punch and hammer to enlarge
the hole to the desired bullet path size As you enlarge the hole the punch will also bend the plug into the desired
M shape to make the baffle more efficient The baffle will stick to the punch
but you can tap alternating sides of the baffle with your hammer to knock it
free Use a bullet path size drill bit to verify the hole size as you enlarge
the hole with the punch
Forming a Freeze Plug Into a Baffle
Freeze plug is draped over a socket and a large punch is driven through the
pre-drilled center hole As you enlarge the hole check its size occasionally
with a bullet path sized drill bit
I recommend putting four 316 holes around the bullet path
hole in the first baffle (blast baffle) These holes allow some of the very
high pressure blast wave to pass through and bleed some of the wave’s energy
Freeze Plug M Baffle
The notch in the bullet path hole keeps the gas from
shooting straight down the center of the suppressor When assembling these
baffles you should line the slots up with one another for best performance and
accuracy
You can
also purchase flashlight storage cups or filter cups that come in the form
of an M baffle and work extremely well but they cost much more than freeze
plugs They come in C cell D cell and 4003 filter sizes You just have to drill the bullet path holes into the M baffles
notch the hole and slide
them into the tube with the notches aligned There are even storage cups made of steel which will hold up
better than aluminum to supersonic rounds
D Cell Storage Cup M Baffle
Just drill the bullet path hole and add a notch I like to
drill a hole about half the size needed to clear the bullet then use a punch to
enlarge the hole to final size The punch will push metal outward to form a
sharp edge to catch gas They come in C & D cell and 4003 filter sizes C size
works well for 22LR D is big enough for 9mm and similar size rounds and 4003 is
good for 300BLK and 308 Win (subsonic only)
A filter or flashlight spring can be used as a spacer to form the blast chamber
area (first chamber the rifle gasses encounter) You can also cut aluminum tubing to form
spacers to separate the baffles or you can simply fill the tube with baffles but
that does add weight when using steel freeze plugs Mixing freeze plug and M
baffles can also work very well for sound suppression If you plan to shoot
supersonic rounds greater than 22LR I recommend a steel blast baffle (first
baffle) You can add one steel freeze plug blast baffle to a suppressor full of
aluminum storage cup M baffles to ensure longevity
When drilling the bullet path holes in the baffles it’s a good
idea to elongate the hole in one direction This sends the moving gasses off to
the side to strike the next baffle wall instead of just shooting straight down
the center of the baffles This is a common feature of commercial suppressor
baffles A 14 rat tail (round) metal file works great for this For aluminum
baffles you can use a 14 drill bit to elongate the hole Silencerco
has done extensive testing of baffle skirt slot alignment and they have found
that lining up the slots gives the quietest shots (especially 22LR and center
fire rifle first round pop) and does not hurt accuracy
The XCaliber Genesis uses modernized K baffles with raised
entrance fences which catch gasses and direct them away from the central hole Note how the skirt hole is opposite the entrance slot in
this suppressor baffle Hot gasses entering the entrance slot push the
main gas stream into the skirt hole to trap it between the baffle and suppressor
wall According to Silencerco research these baffles should be assembled with the
entrance hole slots lined up with one another for quietest performance and accuracy The Genesis is a very quiet 22 suppressor
WARNING Just because these Maglite and filter suppressors
are easy to make doesn’t decrease the severity of penalty for illegal
possession You can do hard prison time if you don’t have a Form 1 and tax stamp
for a suppressor
Suppressor Design Tweaks
I recommend putting three or four 316 holes around the bullet path
hole in the first baffle (blast baffle) These holes allow some of the very
high pressure blast wave to pass through and bleed some of the wave’s energy
This is a common feature in commercial suppressors
You can make a suppressor quieter by putting a few drops of water or oil
into the suppressor and it’ll really reduce first round pop First round pop is caused by
the burning of
cold dense air inside the suppressor–after the first shot the suppressor is
filled with burned gasses that cannot burn when the next shot is fired The downside is the liquid will mix with powder residue
and stick to the
suppressor interior and hasten the need for cleaning
Placing a rubber washer between
each baffle (freeze plug or storage cup) and between the last baffle and exit
hole should help attenuate internal
noise caused by reflection vibration and resonance Lowe’s and Home Depot
sell rubber washers in a variety of sizes A suppressor cover or wrap can also
reduce noise from suppressor vibration
Some silencers of the past used felt washers between the
last baffle and the exit hole to absorb the diminished shock wave
Another technique of old was placing steel wool in the gas
chambers but testing seems to confirm this isn’t worth the trouble
A thick piece of rubber sheet can be placed between the last
baffle and exit hole to form a wipe Cut an X slit for the bullet to
pass The rubber will slow the exit of gas from the suppressor exit hole but
may reduce accuracy
I highly recommend you put a little anti-seize compound on the
barrel tube and end cap threads to make removal and disassembly easier
To remove stuck baffles for cleaning a socket on an extension
can be used to drive them out
Don’t forget that you must engrave your Form 1 information on
the exterior tube of the suppressor
Reducing First Round Pop
A gun barrel and suppressor are full of air when it is shot
the first time so burning gun powder can enter the suppressor and burn the air
inside which adds gas energy and prevents gas cooling inside the suppressor
which generates noise After the first shot the barrel and suppressor are
full of burned gas–it can’t burn again–so follow-up shots are quieter First
round pop can be reduced in several ways Reducing the size of the blast
chamber (first gas chamber the gas encounters) reduces the volume of air that
the hottest gas encounters This design has become relatively standard
Adding a small amount of liquid typically a few drops oil or
water but spit works too to the inside of the suppressor causes evaporative
cooling inside the suppressor This works surprisingly well and is known as
shooting the suppressor wet The downside to shooting wet is it gums up the
inside of the suppressor so cleaning is needed more frequently
We can also eliminate first round pop by filling the
suppressor and barrel with inert gas (gas that can’t burn) such as helium
Balloon helium can be purchased at many party stores To fill the suppressor we
open the bolt or lock the slide open spray the helium into the suppressor exit
hole tape over the exit hole then close the bolt or release the slide The tape
can be left in place for the first shot Sealing the suppressor this way can
keep enough air out of the suppressor to prevent first round pop for several
days
Removing Flash Hiders
Getting factory installed flash hiders and muzzle brakes off
can be a pain in the butt without the right tools
The standard wrench size for AR flash hiders is 34 inch but
not all are standard
For right-hand threaded devices when looking down the barrel
you turn the device counter-clockwise (left) to remove and clockwise (right) to
tighten Righty-tighty lefty-loosey Left-hand threaded devices will go the
opposite directions
The first thing I try is simply
holding the rifle receiver between my knees and use a long 34 wrench on the
flash hider and tap the wrench lightly with a metal hammer About half the time
this is all that’s required to break the flash hider loose
Many muzzle devices have high temperature thread locker like
Loctite Red on their threads If you find a really stubborn flash hider it
probably has high temp thread locker on it Applying a torch to the muzzle device (not the
barrel) until cherry red will release the thread lock and allow removal but be
advised using a
torch may mar the finish of the muzzle device Be cautious of the hot barrel and
flash hider
If you plan to do a lot of AR flash hidermuzzle
brakesuppressor work I highly recommend the $83
Geissele Automatics Reaction Rod You put the Reaction Rod in a vice then slide the
AR upper on the rod The rod is the same diameter as an AR bolt so it fits
snugly The bar has lugs that lock into the barrel lugs to keep the
barrel from turning This holds the barrel securely while you torque on muzzle
devices so only the barrel is torqued and not the upper receiver
Geissele Automatics Reaction Rod
AR upper on Reaction Rod
I do not recommend using a standard AR upper vice block to
remove muzzle devices because you can damage the upper receiver andor gas tube
These
aluminum barrel vice jaws along with
leather jaw pads work great to hold the barrel fast without damage or
marring I use this method on my hunting rifles and Tavor bullpups
Aluminum Barrel Vice & Leather Inserts
If you have easy access to the barrel then
aluminum and
leather vice inserts will hold the barrel fast for easy muzzle device work
with no barrel marring The Tavor user manual shows how to remove the front shroud
for barrel access This 556mm Tavor X95 has standard 12×28 right-hand muzzle
thread The flash hider was locked into position using a 34 lock nut The 9mm
Tavor X95 has an odd 12×36 right-hand thread The 300 Blackout Tavor X95 uses
standard 30 cal 58×24 right-hand thread
You can use an impact driver with a
34 crowfoot wrench (38 drive) and extension to help remove stubborn
flash hiders Place the extension on the impact driver then put the crowfoot
wrench on the extension and place it on the flash hider’s 34 flat side Use a gloved hand to help keep the crowfoot on the flash hider and take
your time using short impact bursts I’ve done this but I nicked the barrel so I
don’t recommend it except as a last resort Painters tape then several layers of duct
tape on the barrel can offer some protection
34 Inch Crowfoot Wrench
This wrench plus a short 38 drive extension on your
impact wrench can help break loose stuck flash hiders
Remove all washers and lock nuts from the rifle muzzle
because they can throw off suppressor alignment The best alignment usually
comes from seating the suppressor directly against the muzzle thread shoulder
Bullet Diameters in Inches and MM
Cartridge
Diameter Inch
MM
Other Cartridges With Same Bullet
22LR
222
564
223 & 556
224
57
(I know it’s called 556 but it’s not) 224 Valkyrie
243 & 6mm
243
617
6mm Creedmoor
25-20 & 257 Roberts
257
653
65mm & 264WM
264
67
65 Creedmoor Grendel Carcano Japanese 264 Win Mag
270 Win
277
704
68 SPC
280 Rem
284
721
7mm-08 Rem 284 Win 7mm x57 Mauser
308 Win & 762
308
782
I know it’s called 762 but it’s not 75mm Swiss
(303 Savage is 311)
762×39
312
792
AK-47 SKS
32 ACP
312
793
(32-40 is 324)
8mm 325 WSM
323
82
8mm x 57 8mm Rem Mag 325 Win Short Mag
338 Laupa Mag
338
859
340 Wby Mag 338 Win Mag
375 H&H Mag
375
953
380 Auto
355
902
(9mm Short should be called 355 Auto)
9mm & 357 Sig
355
902
9mm Parabellum 9mmx19
38 Special
359
912
357 Mag (should be called 36 Special)
40 S&W & 10mm
400
1016
(40 S&W should be called 10mm Short)
416 Rigby
416
1057
44-40 Win
428
1087
44 Mag
430
1092
45 ACP
451
1146
45-70
458
1163
458 Win Mag 450 Marlin 460 Wby Mag
470 Nitro Express
475
1207
500 S&W Mag
500
127
50 BMG
510
1295
50 Alaskan
Long slide Glock G41 MOS (modular optic system) 45 ACP with Osprey 45 suppressor
Burris micro red dot sight Tru-Glow tall see-over-the-suppressor co-witness night
sights and combo flashlightgreen laser The pistol is held to the bed rail by a
plastic covered gun magnet A suppressed weapon is ideal for home defense
because firing an unsupressed weapon inside your home without hearing
protection will freakin’ hurt 45 ACP 230gr hollow point ammo
is subsonic–you don’t need to buy expensive subsonic ammo
Warning You must have a BATFE
Form 1 with tax stamp before you begin to legally build a suppressor National Firearms Act (NFA)
rules apply and you can do hard prison time for violating the law
Ruger Precision Rimfire with M-LOK Arca-Swiss plate clamped
into LeoFoto LH-55 ball head and heavy duty tripodBy Major Rob Robinette
US Army and Air Force (Retired)
Major Robinette was a Battalion Marksmanship Champion Squadron Rifle Team Captain Range Officer
and F-15 pilot Rob also spent 10 years as a federal law enforcement
officer He holds a Federal Firearms License and is the owner of
Nolichucky Guns He enjoys all forms of rifle and pistol
use
Intro to Long Range
Mil Dot Shooting
300 Blackout Reloading
Gun Recoil Calculator
M16 4-Way Select Fire
QuickLOAD Quickstart Guide
Leupold RX2800
Nothin’s more fun than long range subsonic 22 gong ringing Shooting from
the rear upper deck and the family doesn’t even notice
Another
Ruger 1022 with Suppressor
Suppressor On Sig 1911-22
C Cell Tube
4003 Filter
Forming a Freeze Plug Into a Baffle
Freeze Plug M Baffle
D Cell Storage Cup M Baffle
Suppressor Design Tweaks
Geissele Automatics Reaction Rod
Aluminum Barrel Vice & Leather Inserts
34 Inch Crowfoot Wrench
What tools are needed with the mini lathe? -SilencerTalk
- Article author: www.silencertalk.com
- Reviews from users: 2969 Ratings
- Top rated: 4.4
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Build Your Own Silencer – Part 1 –
Don’t look at me like that. Yes, it’s perfectly legal to build your own suppressor. Following the same process as you would to make a registered and legal short barreled rifle (SBR) or short barreled shotgun (SBS), you can build a device that will make your favorite gun quieter, have some fun and even learn a few things along the way. Still with me? Great. Let’s get started.
SILENCER SATURDAY #121: Build Your Own Form 1 Suppressor – Part 1
Part 1:
Introduction Maker vs Manufacturer Disclaimers Legal Requirements Basics Materials Basic Tools Homework
Part 2: (IN PROCESS/DELAYED FOR LEGALITY CONCERNS)
Types/Designs Calibers ATF Form 5320.1 (Form 1) Paper vs EFile Resources Part Suppliers While You Wait Homework
Part 3:
Approval Building/Machining Working With Metal Bore Diameter and Concentricity Baffle Clipping/Mouse Holes Mounting/Testing Coating/Painting Final Thoughts
1.1 Build Your Own – Introduction
Commercial suppressor manufacturers have been conjuring up some awesome products in the last few years. Modern designs, materials and manufacturing processes have given buyers enough market variety to suppress almost any gun in their safe.
So why would you want to build your own silencer? For the most part, homemade suppressors can be made for a fraction of the cost of their commercial cousins. For example, my combination titanium, steel and aluminum 9mm suppressor cost about $150 (not including a booster). And my full titanium 5.56mm build cost about $350.
In addition, you can use your choice of materials, specific dimensions and custom designs to build a can that matches your needs precisely. It’s also just good clean fun: by building your owner suppressor you get a better understanding behind the engineering that goes into the products made by the big companies. Suppressing firearms is both a science and an art. Ok, it’s mostly science.
If you are not a suppressor owner yet, I highly suggest that your first (and probably second) purchase come from a commercial manufacturer rather than attempting to make one on your own. Even if you are an expert machinist, I believe your first venture into the world of silencers should be store bought. Why? Because if something doesn’t turn out right – it’s loud, or it doesn’t thread on properly, or it’s super heavy – you risk being soured on suppressors forever. And nobody wants that. In addition, commercial offerings are backed by a warranty; if something is out of spec, just send it to back and get it fixed.
Hopefully you had the chance to read through the ‘Beginner’s Guide to Suppressors’ series here at TFB. If not, I suggest that you at least read through Part 1 that covers some basic information including the National Firearms Act (NFA) legality in your area, suppressor terminology and host (gun) basics. Most of that starter information will not be repeated here in the ‘build your own’ series.
1.2 Build Your Own – Maker vs Manufacturer
As an individual or entity (Trust or LLC) suppressor builder (also known as ‘Form 1’ builders), you are known as a ‘Maker’. While on the other hand, the Bureau of Alcohol Tobacco and Firearms (BATFE) classifies Federal Firearms Licensee/Special Occupational Tax holders (FFL/SOTs) as ‘Manufacturers’. Whereas manufacturers are in business to design, build, test and sell NFA items like suppressors, makers are approved to build suppressors for non-commercial (or resale) use only.
What this means for you:
As a maker, you are not allowed to build a suppressor for sale. That doesn’t mean that you can’t sell a suppressor you build down the road (you won’t), but the intent is that you are building one just for personal (or entity) use only.
Manufacturers are allowed to apply for BATFE variances to certain rules and regulations in the design and build process. For example, a suppressor company can petition the BATFE for a variance for a design that pushes the legal limits that define silencers – extra parts, modularity, etc. Makers, on the other hand, must follow all BATFE rules and regulations as written.
As a maker, you cannot ‘test’ or ‘prototype’ your designs like a manufacturer may be allowed to do. Your approved BATFE Form 5320.1 “Form 1” allows you to build one suppressor as described. More on this topic later in the series.
Manufacturers are allowed to repair damaged or worn suppressors with certain restrictions. Makers are not allowed to repair suppressors, even one’s they built themselves. There is some debate on this front, but we will tackle that discussion in Part 3.
1.3 Build Your Own Silencer – Disclaimers
I know we are all responsible, levelheaded and lawful firearm owners, but since we will be venturing into the highly niche area of building a suppressor lawfully, here are a few words of caution:
I am not a machinist, master craftsman, CNC operator or blacksmith. This guide is meant for the amateur hobbyist with a basic knowledge of tools and metalworking. Know your skills and limitations in the shop.
I am not an attorney. And this guide isn’t meant to be legal advice. When in doubt, do your own research and contact the BATFE for clarification.
You are responsible for following all safety precautions. This applies to when you handle firearms as well as the tools in your garage. And don’t forget the ear and eye protection.
1.4 Build Your Own Silencer – Legal Requirements
As discussed in the Beginner’s Guide, check the local, state and federal laws before starting down the path towards a homemade suppressor.
We mentioned the BATFE Form 1 above, and we are going to go into more detail in this part as well as the following parts. To put it simply: You need an approved Form 1 before you can start building your suppressor. Do not attempt to machine parts, drill holes or otherwise do anything that would be construed as building an unregistered suppressor.
That being said, you can purchase the parts necessary to build you silencer while you wait for your Form 1 to be approved. After all, the majority of these parts are commercially available at metal supply sources, auto parts stores, hardware stores or directly from a machine shop.
The key here is intent and common sense. Buying metal tubes is one thing; forming baffle cones and drilling bore holes is something completely different. For the most part, if your parts can be threaded onto a barrel and can suppress the sound of a fired shot, it’s a silencer and needs an approved Form 1. When in doubt, wait for your Form 1 to come back approved from the BATFE.
For your own good, and the betterment of shooters, collectors, hobbyists and builders everywhere, do not attempt to push the boundaries of the law, no matter how slight.
I am not trying to make anyone nervous, but a healthy amount of caution is ok when building NFA regulated items.
On the plus side, you don’t need to have your entire build planned out prior to filing your Form 1. Besides your individual or entity information, the BATFE only needs the caliber of your silencer and it’s overall length. A basic design or sketch is not required, but could help keep your form out of “Pending Research” – a period of time after the submission of your Form 1 where the BATFE reviews the details of your proposed build and decides whether or not they need further information prior to processing and approval.
Don’t worry, we are going to guide you the entire Form 1 process in Part 2.
1.5 Build Your Own Silencer – Basics
Similar to when buying a commercial suppressor, throughout the build process it is very important to keep your needs, wants and expectations in mind. Be realistic with your goals and your budget. Here are a few things to watch out for:
Costs: Especially when it comes to rimfire projects, it is easy to get close to the price of a well-built commercial can.
Weight: There can be a tendency to overbuild your suppressor out of an abundance of caution. Just keep in mind that all those materials on the end of your barrel will add up fast.
Length: Similar to weight, many builders can attempt to make a silencer too long in the hopes of a further reduction in noise. Stick to ‘normal’ sizes and lengths this time.
Baffles/Monocore: There will be a temptation to get creative with your silencer’s internals. Remember, since you are a maker and not a manufacturer, you are not allowed to prototype and test different designs along the way. For your first build, stay with a proven, easy to make design.
1.6 Materials
Here’s where we start getting down to business – picking out the materials you need to start your build. But before we get down to actual parts and suppliers, lets talk about the metals that can be used to build suppressors.
Aluminum: A lightweight metal that is easy to machine, aluminum is typically only used on rimfire builds or some pistol builds with caution.
Stainless Steel: Strong but heavy, stainless steel can be used on almost any type of host. Because of the weight limitations, stainless steel builds on the end of long rifle barrels should be avoided.
Titanium: Similar in weight to aluminum but with comparable strength to steel, titanium is an excellent choice for suppressor building. The downsides here are cost (about five times the cost of comparable steel) and machinability – low drilling speeds, cutting oil and temperature management.
Carbon fiber and plastics builds are (somewhat) possible but should be considered advanced builds and outside the bounds of this guide.
It is important to note that these materials can be used in combination with each other. For example, for a pistol suppressor you could use a titanium tube with steel or stainless steel baffles.
Writers Note: Ok, here’s something I neglected to mention in the beginner’s guide. The tube (where the manufacturer/makers engraving is usually located) of the silencer is considered to be irreplaceable. Meaning that in the highly unlikely event of a catastrophic failure, the tube cannot be replaced, even by a licensed manufacturer. The tube can be shortened to affect a repair, but it cannot be lengthened or completely replaced (without paying another $200 transfer tax and waiting for a Form 4 to get approved).
Knowing this fact, as a maker, my suggestion is to use the best material, proper thickness and machining possible. This build needs to last a lifetime (or more). However, if damaged, end-caps, adapters and internals can all be replaced by a licensed manufacturer. All without having to pay another $200.
In fact, keep this in the back of your mind: If you somehow manage to make the worst silencer ever produced (it actually makes your gun louder) you can send it off to one of a few different manufacturers who will re-core (gut and replace) your silencers baffles and caps without having to pay another $200 tax and wait six months for approval.
1.7 Basic Tools
I am not going to suggest that anyone needs to run out and buy a lathe or that you need to have a garage full of the best tools money can buy. However, you do need some basic equipment to build your own suppressor.
Drill: A good rechargeable or plugin drill is a must. A drill press is better.
Drill bits: Get a new set of bits that are suitable for metalwork.
Hacksaw: For trimming spacer material. A Dremel will also work
Files: Round, flat and triangular for clipping baffles and evening out spacers. Grinders and a belt sander are nice to have.
Heavy duty vice: I’ll be honest, if you are forming your own baffle cones, a hydraulic shop press really is preferred. But with the right shop vice, it can be done. Plans for building your own press out of 2×4’s and using the hydraulic jack from your car can be found here.
Sandpaper: Smoothing and polishing.
Cutting oil: For drilling an cutting titanium.
1.8 Build Your Own Silencer- Homework
We are going to start the next part off by talking about silencer design basics, caliber ratings and submitting your BATFE Form 1.
First, decide the host that your project will eventually live on and make sure it’s suitable to be suppressed.
Second, take some time to do a little research on your own. Googling ‘suppressor baffles’ will give you thousands of pictures to look through.
Hint: For your first build, you’ll be buying a pre-made tube, a threaded barrel adapter, end cap and baffle materials like freeze plugs or Valve Stem Retainers (VSR).
Lastly, download and familiarize yourself with the information needed for the BATFE Form 1. We’ll be filling that out in Part 2.
Glossary:
Baffle – The cone-like sections inside the suppressor that work to slow and cool gasses.
– The cone-like sections inside the suppressor that work to slow and cool gasses. Baffle Stack – All of a suppressor’s baffles together acting as one sound-reducing system.
– All of a suppressor’s baffles together acting as one sound-reducing system. Baffle Strike – When a bullet damages a silencer’s baffle.
– When a bullet damages a silencer’s baffle. Blowback – Gases that would have normally exited the muzzle are redirect back through the barrel towards the shooter.
– Gases that would have normally exited the muzzle are redirect back through the barrel towards the shooter. Booster or Nielsen Device – An inertia device that uses the force of the trapped gases in the silencer to cycle the action of a semiautomatic pistol.
– An inertia device that uses the force of the trapped gases in the silencer to cycle the action of a semiautomatic pistol. Bore Hole – The hole in the baffles and end cap where the bullet passes through.
– The hole in the baffles and end cap where the bullet passes through. Clipping – Openings encompassing part of the bore hole in baffles to aid in the creation of turbulence and increasing suppression. (also see ‘mouse holes’)
– Openings encompassing part of the bore hole in baffles to aid in the creation of turbulence and increasing suppression. (also see ‘mouse holes’) Concentric – The process of ensuring that the entire suppressor is centered around the boreline of the barrel and barrel threading.
– The process of ensuring that the entire suppressor is centered around the boreline of the barrel and barrel threading. Direct Thread – A type of suppressor that mounts directly on to a barrel without the need for a mount or adapter.
– A type of suppressor that mounts directly on to a barrel without the need for a mount or adapter. End Cap – The muzzle end of the silencer.
– The muzzle end of the silencer. End Cap Strike – When a bullet damages a silencer’s end cap.
– When a bullet damages a silencer’s end cap. Engraving – The maker, model number, maker location, caliber and serial number engraved on the main part of a suppressor as required by law.
– The maker, model number, maker location, caliber and serial number engraved on the main part of a suppressor as required by law. Form 1 – BATFE Form 5320.1 an Application to Make and Register a Firearm. An approved Form 1 is required to build a suppressor.
– BATFE Form 5320.1 an Application to Make and Register a Firearm. An approved Form 1 is required to build a suppressor. Freeze Plug: Normally found in auto parts stores, theses inexpensive steel cups are made to be used in car engine blocks. They also can be drilled an pressed into Form 1 suppressor baffles.
Normally found in auto parts stores, theses inexpensive steel cups are made to be used in car engine blocks. They also can be drilled an pressed into Form 1 suppressor baffles. Inner Diameter (ID) – The inner diameter of a suppressor tube.
(ID) – The inner diameter of a suppressor tube. Markings –The maker, model number, maker location, caliber and serial number engraved on the main part of a suppressor as required by law. (see engraving)
–The maker, model number, maker location, caliber and serial number engraved on the main part of a suppressor as required by law. (see engraving) Monocore – A type of one-piece baffle structure found inside some types of suppressors.
– A type of one-piece baffle structure found inside some types of suppressors. Mount – The part of the suppressor that attached to the barrel of your gun.
– The part of the suppressor that attached to the barrel of your gun. Mouse Holes – Semi-Circle holes encompassing part of the bore hole in baffles to aid in the creation of turbulence and increasing suppression. (also see ‘clipping’)
– Semi-Circle holes encompassing part of the bore hole in baffles to aid in the creation of turbulence and increasing suppression. (also see ‘clipping’) Outer Diameter (OD) – The outer diameter of a suppressor tube.
(OD) – The outer diameter of a suppressor tube. Over-The-Barrel – A type of silencer that uses proprietary mounts that starts before the muzzle of the barrel to increase a silencer’s volume.
– A type of silencer that uses proprietary mounts that starts before the muzzle of the barrel to increase a silencer’s volume. Spacer – The a section of metal that slips into your tube to create space between baffles.
– The a section of metal that slips into your tube to create space between baffles. Thread pitch – A variety of different thread patterns on the muzzle of a barrel that are usually specific to a caliber.
– A variety of different thread patterns on the muzzle of a barrel that are usually specific to a caliber. Tube – The body of the silencer.
– The body of the silencer. Valve Stem Retainers (VSR) – Made of steel or titanium these stepped-cones are made to retain valve stems in car engines. They also make great baffles in Form 1 suppressors.
(VSR) – Made of steel or titanium these stepped-cones are made to retain valve stems in car engines. They also make great baffles in Form 1 suppressors. Volume – The amount of space inside a silencer that is available for gases to be trapped, slowed and cooled.
See you for Part 2 of ‘Build Your Own Silencer’.
An Inside Look at How Suppressors Work – Silencer Central
We often get asked “how are silencers made?” and “how do silencers work?” Well, the two answers mesh up nicely with each other, so we’ll take a look at how silencers are made, so you can then better understand how silencers work.
How are Suppressors Made?
It is an industry secret that all silencers are made by the Silencer Fairy. When a gun owner buys a silencer, the Silencer Fairy waits for the ATF goblins to issue a tax stamp, and then waves her magic wand. Okay, that’s not true (except maybe for the ATF wait times), but it’s a funny thought. All silencers start out as a chunk of metal which gets made into a tube. Some high-end silencers like our BANISH Suppressor line are made out of machined titanium, but broadly speaking, any sort of high-pressure seamless tubing that can contain the pressure of firing a gun will work for a silencer body. They just might not work well.
The suppressor body does more than just hold the various ‘guts’ of a silencer. It also helps bleed off heat from firing, which cools the gasses from the muzzle blast and makes the gun shoot quieter. A steel tube won’t cool as fast as titanium, and aluminum tubes are better suited for low-pressure rounds like pistol or rimfire. Of course, titanium is the best, but also the most expensive, so shooters make trade-offs over price and performance. But that’s okay because that’s capitalism, and we love capitalism.
Silencer Baffles and Other Internal Components
Once you’ve got a tube, then it’s time to make the internal components. These are usually some form of machined baffle, which redirects and slows muzzle gas to reduce the sound of gunfire. They also aid in cooling. Some earlier suppressors used stacked sheet metal baffles, leather or Nomex wipes, or various combinations of baffles, wipes, oil, grease or other methods. Some highly advanced suppressors include a clever piston system to help control the flow of gas. Once you’ve made the “guts” of the silencer, then it is time to add end caps. These close off the tube and allow for it to be threaded onto your gun on one end, with an opening for the bullet to escape on the other. Some will be permanently attached, creating a “sealed” suppressor, while others, like on our Banish line, are removable for cleaning.
Shop Rifle Suppressors
Rifle Silencers vs. Pistol Silencers
If you ask, “how are rifle silencers made?” or “how are pistol silencers made?” the answer is the same. They are made using the same precision machining and threading methods with premium grade metal alloys that can withstand the harsh use silencers are put through. The same design elements, the same technology, and the same concepts are used in both rifle and pistol silencers.
What are Suppressors Made of?
Here’s what suppressors are made of:
Suppressors are made using high-quality metal alloys such as titanium, aluminum alloy, or stainless steel. These materials are able to withstand the force of the expanding gases and cool them off, helping to suppress the sound.
Modern suppressors like the Banish Suppressor use all-titanium construction to reduce weight and help bleed off heat better than steel or aluminum suppressors. This makes for a lighter suppressor that also shoots quieter than other non-titanium designs.
How Does a Silencer Work?
Here’s an overview of how silencers work:
When you fire a round, rapidly-burning gases build up pressure behind a bullet and propel it down your bore. As the bullet leaves the bore, a burst of flaming hot gas exits behind it. Silencers slow down that gas and redirect it through and around a series of baffles before allowing it to escape the silencer.
This does several things. First, it lets the combustion process more fully complete. Any unburnt powder will finish burning off, which helps reduce muzzle flash. Secondly, the longer the gas is contained the slower and cooler it gets. This means when it does escape the silencer, it is moving slower and is under less pressure, which means it’s also quieter.
At this point, we should note there are two types of sound being generated at the muzzle of your gun – the sound of a bullet hitting supersonic flight, and the sound of the gas blasting out of your muzzle. While silencers can’t do anything about fast bullets (that’s why many silencer shooters use subsonic ammo which lacks the supersonic crack of faster rounds), they can and do deal with the gas.
How Loud is Gunshot with a Silencer?
Most silencers used with commercial ammo will reduce sound by about 34-35 decibels or so. Just enough to make a gun go from “dangerously painful to shoot without ear protection” to “still very loud, but safe to shoot without ear protection.”
While the reality of silencer noise reduction doesn’t play well to the media, for the most part, that’s what it does. In other words, sound suppression is a series of tradeoffs that work to make most ammo quiet enough to safely shoot without ear protection, or with minimal ear protection.
We can see then that silencers work through the simple application of physics. Slow down and cool muzzle gas long enough to make the sound of the muzzle blast just quiet enough to not be dangerous to hearing or create as much sound pollution.
How to Buy a Silencer
Want to Learn More about How Silencers Work?
If you want to learn more about silencers and the technical details of their performance, drop us an email and we’ll be happy to share our extensive real-world test data compiled by shooting over two dozen silencers with military-grade sound measuring equipment. We love talking silencers and have in-house data on our Banish Suppressor line of multi-caliber suppressors.
How to Build a Suppressor (and why you probably shouldn’t) – Silencer Central
WARNING: Do NOT start building your own suppressor until you have paid the $200 tax stamp and received the completed and approved Form 1 back from the ATF.
The firearms industry has always been full of DIY projects. Really and truly, the vast majority of arms making the world over was, in one form or another, DIY for centuries until the proper technology and mechanization came along to modernize and streamline production. Gunsmiths used to need to be masters of their craft, spending years to perfect the process.
These days, the number of arms-related DIY projects are more plentiful and accessible than ever. Thanks to the internet, making your own legal suppressor is one of the projects that has gotten easier.
Obtaining a professionally made suppressor is an expensive and time-consuming process. (Silencer Central does, however, make it as quick and easy as possible. More on that at the end of this post.) If you think building your own suppressor is going to be a faster, easier, cheaper, and safer route than buying one from a company, we’d caution you to pump the brakes for a second and read this whole article first before making that decision.
Here’s what we’re going to cover:
Building a DIY Suppressor Isn’t as Easy as You Think
Often, we associate “DIY” with something that’s super easy to do by anyone. While this is the case with most things, it’s not always the case with suppressors. Sure, there are some situations and people who have the right stuff and skills to do it properly themselves. We’re not saying that it can’t be done, but since the world of NFA items is fraught with potential legal issues, we’re saying it’s worth taking a good, long look at the process and the options out there before committing to the DIY option simply because it seems easier.
So now let’s take a look at some of the things you’ve got to take into consideration when determining if you’re going to go the DIY route with a suppressor or choose to buy one from a manufacturer or a dealer.
Paperwork and Legal Requirements
As we stated in the warning at the very top of this page, you should not start building your homemade suppressor until you’ve paid your tax and received an approved Form 1 back from the ATF. To be extra safe, we recommend that you not even purchase the parts or kit for making one until you have the necessary government approval. Better safe than sorry because penalties for possession of a silencer, including DIY ones, are steep if you don’t have ATF approval and that $200 tax stamp.
Federal guidelines call for a minimum sentence of 27 months in prison without the possibility of parole. It also carries a potential fine of $10,000. The maximum sentence, if the silencer possession coincided with possession of drugs with intent to distribute, is 30 years in prison without parole, and a $250,000 fine. (Note: we’re not saying you’re a drug dealer. Just pointing out how harsh the government can be about two things they really, really, don’t like: drugs and NFA items.)
Parts, Design, and Manufacturing
There are a wide variety of DIY suppressor kits on the market today. Some of them are well made and can be very reliable if finished properly. Unfortunately, the majority of them are not. Oftentimes, you’ll see these items being offered on various sale and auction sites for really cheap prices. This definitely has the potential to be a case of “you get what you pay for.”
It’s not uncommon for many of the sites or sellers of these things to change store names, alter product names, etc. in an attempt to stay one step ahead of any potential legal issues that may come their way. This alone should be a big red flag. After all, you don’t know the quality of the parts they made and there’s certainly no warranty.
If you’ve got some machining skills, you could also opt to take DIY to a whole new level by designing and manufacturing the entire thing yourself. This will take an extra degree of careful planning on your part to ensure that you’ve got a solid design that’s going to work properly once you’ve got an approved Form 1. It would be a huge bummer to spend the time and money getting everything in place only to build a can that doesn’t suppress properly.
Unforeseen Costs
At a minimum, you’re going to need a drill and some drill bits if you decide to build one of the kits. If you don’t have a drill or bits, that’s an extra cost. Sure, it’s not much, but it’s still extra. Those dollars can add up quickly if you’re not keeping track of the expenses.
If you’re going to 3D print your suppressor, then you’ll need the printer, software, and printing medium. All of those are extra costs, and they vary greatly. It could be as little as a few hundred or it could stretch into the thousands.
If you’re going to design and build your own suppressor from the ground up, then this is where you can incur the most unforeseen costs. You’ll need raw materials, a lathe, a drill press, a welder, and some other things as well. Unless you already have these things, that can add up to quite a lot of extra costs.
Another thing to consider with the cost is that there’s no warranty on a suppressor that you make yourself. Warranties in and of themselves don’t cost any extra, but not having one certainly does! If the can you build gets damaged or destroyed from a baffle strike or it sails downrange like a missile because of improper threading, that’s all on you. Sending it back to the manufacturer for repairs or replacement isn’t an option.
This means that in order to repair or replace your suppressor, you’re going to have to buy the materials or kit all over again and quite possibly have to pay for another $200 tax stamp and wait on the ATF again as well. On the plus side, you’ll already have the tools needed to do it, so that’s a plus in some ways.
LET US TAKE CARE OF ALL THE HASSLE!
Still, Want to Build a Suppressor? Here’s What You Need to Do
If you’re still intent on building your own silencer, that’s great. There’s a lot of satisfaction that comes from making something yourself. So to help you on your journey, we’ll go over the basic steps necessary for doing so. It’s important to note that this is just an overview. If you have any specific or detailed questions, be sure to check with the ATF’s published guidelines as well as your state and local laws.
Give the ATF Its Dues
Just because you made the suppressor yourself doesn’t mean you’re exempt from completing the appropriate forms with the ATF. Homemade or not, a suppressor is still an NFA item and you have to follow their rules if you want to stay out of prison and avoid hefty fines.
When you buy a suppressor from a manufacturer, you’ll need to complete an ATF Form 4 and submit it for government approval. If you’re building your own suppressor, you’ll need to fill out similar paperwork, known as a Form 1, and submit it to the ATF.
ATF approval of a Form 4 is notoriously long. We’re talking 8-12 months in many cases. Thankfully, ATF approval of a Form 1 for a DIY silencer is much quicker. We’re talking only a few weeks to a month in many cases. Faster approval time is really the only benefit in this whole process versus buying a suppressor.
Just like a Form 4, your Form 1 will still require all of the normal information you’d expect to fill out, but it also requires you to input the specifics of the suppressor you intend to build. There are spaces for the model, caliber, overall length, and serial number.
You can be creative with the model and serial number if you want, but the serial number has to contain at least one letter and you cannot use any special characters.
Pay The $200 Tax
Just because you made the suppressor yourself doesn’t mean you’re exempt from paying the $200 NFA tax stamp. Just like buying a suppressor, you have to get a stamp for each and every suppressor you build yourself. Uncle Sam still wants his money, and if you don’t want to be a felon, you’d better give it to him. There’s no legal way around it. Sorry.
Decide How You’ll Construct It
The sky’s the limit here. And by sky, we mean your imagination and engineering and/or fabrication skills.
There are a lot of options for making your own silencer, but not all of them are equal in terms of safety, durability, and longevity. Some of the ones we’ve seen include:
Complete from scratch with homemade machining, metal fabricating, and designs
3D printing your own or someone else’s design
Heading to the hardware store and buying pieces of PVC, etc
Retrofitting an actual oil or fuel filter
Purchasing a so-called “solvent trap”
A quick search online will provide you with multiple sites that have parts and kits for sale, as well as a bunch of information, tips, tricks, hints, do’s and don’ts, and more from people who have gone through this process already.
It’s highly recommended that you take a look at other people’s DIY suppressors, ask lots of questions, and use their experiences like a lighthouse to avoid the dangerous rocks that they hit before you. A few extra minutes of research can save hours of headaches.
Acquire the Necessary Components
What you’ll need to complete your DIY suppressor will vary depending on how you decide to make it. If you bought a pre-made kit, you’ll need those parts and any tools they recommend.
If you’re building it from scratch, you’ll need to assemble a list of all the parts and tools you think you’ll need and head to the store to pick them up. (And let’s be honest, if you’re like most of us, you’ll end up making multiple trips to the store. We always forget that one thing!)
Of course, the most important component for your build is an approved Form 1 from the ATF. Without that, the rest of your components are useless. Well, OK, maybe not useless, but certainly illegal if you start piecing things together.
Complete the Actual Build
As we’ve mentioned before, under no circumstances should you build your suppressor before you receive an approved Form 1 from the ATF. Once you have that piece of paper and tax stamp in your possession, then – and only then – can you start building your new silencer.
Depending on what route you take, this could involve any number of steps and procedures.
If you buy one of the pre-made but undrilled solvent trap kits, now would be the time to set up your drill press with the right size drill bits and carefully drill the holes into each of the pieces that will become baffles. It is of utmost importance that you use the right size bit and drill in a straight line. Failure to do so could result in catastrophic failure at the range.
If you’re going the 3D printing route, now is the time to download the suppressor files, input them into the printer, and let it work some magic. Once printed, follow any necessary steps to complete your specific pattern of the build.
If you’re going to build a new silencer completely from scratch, this is the time to assemble all of your raw materials and tools to get to work. This option is recommended only to those who have previous machining and fabricating skills. While the phrase is “measure twice, cut once,” in this case, we’d recommend altering it to “measure thrice, cut once” just to be on the safe side.
No matter which option you choose to go with, there’s one step that they will all have in common: engraving. You must engrave the information you provided on your Form 1 onto your new suppressor. This includes things like the make, model, serial number, caliber, and your city and state. The engraving doesn’t have to be pretty or professional. It just has to be legible. Most people opt to use a handheld Dremel tool for this, but you can also use a laser or CNC if you have that available to you. The serial number must be marked to a depth of .003” and no smaller than 1/16”.
You can do everything right in the manufacturing process, but if you fail to engrave the proper information on your new silencer – including doing it to the right depth and size – then all of that effort will have been for nothing because you still have an unregistered silencer.
Other Considerations
The NFA has been subject to multiple reinterpretations by the ATF in recent years. It’s frustrating, for sure, but that’s what we’ve got to work with right now. The very concept of 80%-anything in the firearms industry is under heavy scrutiny right now, and it’s unclear what the future may hold for these kinds of products. What is clear, though, is that purchasing a completed silencer from a dealer or manufacturer has never been disputed under the NFA. (Fingers crossed that it never does.)
Another thing to keep in mind is that some of the websites that sell these DIY kits are based overseas. Purchasing these kits exposes you to potential charges of illegal importation of a silencer. This is rare, but it does happen from time to time.
One case from March 2020 involved a man in New Mexico who bought components online from overseas and the U.S. Customs and Border Protection intercepted the package at John F. Kennedy airport in New York City. Agents opened the package because the Chinese company that sent it was known to ship silencers into the U.S. illegally.
To Buy or Build? For Most, It’s No Question
If you’re a huge fan of DIY projects and you think you’re up to the challenge of legally building your own silencer, then by all means, go for it!
If, however, you’re like the majority of silencer owners, then your best option is to buy a completed silencer from a reputable company. This is where Silencer Central comes into the picture.
We’ve been in this business for more than 15 years and our top-notch staff can help you pick the right can for your needs. We’ll walk you through our super-easy ordering process and even set you up on an interest-free payment plan if you’d like. Plus, once your stamp is approved, we’ll mail your new suppressor right to your door!
SHOP SILENCERS TODAY!
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