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Unwrap your cast iron radiator and lift it into a vertical position, resting on its feet. Ensure you are lifting it from the centre of the radiator and not at one end as this could damage the joins and seals. Lift the radiator, maintaining the vertical position throughout.Heavy – a single cast iron radiator may weigh anywhere from 40 to 150 pounds or more and will require a physically able person (or two) to position it in place.Radiators are often priced by the fin and cost between $10 and $20 per section depending on height, depth, and decoration. Shorter radiators that fit under windows are more scarce than tall models and tend to be on the higher end of the price range, says Bauer.
Contents
How heavy is a cast iron radiator?
Heavy – a single cast iron radiator may weigh anywhere from 40 to 150 pounds or more and will require a physically able person (or two) to position it in place.
Are old cast iron radiators worth anything?
Radiators are often priced by the fin and cost between $10 and $20 per section depending on height, depth, and decoration. Shorter radiators that fit under windows are more scarce than tall models and tend to be on the higher end of the price range, says Bauer.
Can you remove cast iron radiator?
Others don’t mind the look of cast iron radiators, but need to move them in order to paint or remodel the floor. Moving cast iron radiators isn’t too difficult, although they’re heavy and awkward pieces of equipment.
Are cast iron radiators heavy?
Cast Iron Radiators are very heavy, when they have water in they are very very heavy. It is human nature to run your hand over the top of a warm cast iron radiator – wall stays are essential.
Can you move a radiator yourself?
Instead of packing up your decorating tools and feeling disheartened, don’t worry! It is entirely possible to move your designer radiator into a whole new position in the room so that it gets the prominence it deserves without getting in the way of the rest of your DIY and décor plans.
How heavy is an old cast iron radiator?
| Weight | 203.6 lbs |
|---|---|
| Construction material | Cast iron |
| EDR (sq. ft.) | 35.42 |
| Made in | England |
| Maximum operating pressure | 30 psi (steam) / 116 psi (hydronic) |
Can I sell old radiators for scrap?
Copper pipes, like old radiators, can be sold for scrap. Once you are sure that you have all of the scrap that you don’t need, go ahead and start pricing everything up using the price lists from the websites of companies near you.
Is there a market for cast iron radiators?
So whilst cast iron rads in proper working condition will be more desirable in general, there is evidently still a market for classic models that no longer function correctly.
Is it worth replacing cast iron radiators?
Long-Lasting Heat
In contract, the other metals will lose their heat quicker and your house will cool off quicker. Unfortunately, there a downside of cast iron radiators – they take longer to heat up. Don’t expect to come home, turn on the heat and have a warm house in a few minutes.
How long do cast iron radiators last?
A good cast iron radiator will last you 20 years at best. I have seen examples where they’re working after 40/50 years, but those tend to involve a good degree of maintenance and getting cleaned up every few years.
How much does a new cast iron radiator cost?
Radiator costs can also vary by design and style: Basic radiators can run between $250 and $500. Cast iron radiators cost between $100 for a small radiator and around $500 for a large one. Modern design radiators are the most expensive, costing between $300 and $1,000 depending on size and style.
How hard is it to remove radiators?
Removing a radiator is a fairly easy job. It’s something a competent home plumber should be able to manage with little trouble. After all, it is one of the last things a building contractor installs, and the pipes will already be accessible.
How do you remove a radiator without draining the system?
- Close the radiator valves. Shut down the lockshield and the TRV, which are on the opposite sides of the radiator. …
- Drain the radiator. …
- Pull the valve off. …
- Remove the radiator from its brackets. …
- Tilt the side of the radiator. …
- Refit the radiator after painting.
How do you remove old radiators?
Stripping is a relatively easy but time-consuming job, particularly if you have multiple radiators to work on. The best way to remove the paint is to sand the surface using a coarse-grit paper, and then use a paint stripper. You should follow the instructions carefully and use the appropriate eyewear.
How hard is it to move a radiator to another wall?
Moving your radiator to a new position is a fairly straightforward job providing you have some basic knowledge of plumbing beforehand. Unless you feel that you are fully competent to do so and that you have the required plumbing knowledge needed to move a radiator, it’s always best to leave it to the professionals.
How do you carry a cast iron radiator upstairs?
Cast Iron Radiator Handling Guide
Unwrap your cast iron radiator and lift it into a vertical position, resting on its feet. Ensure you are lifting it from the centre of the radiator and not at one end as this could damage the joins and seals. Lift the radiator, maintaining the vertical position throughout.
Is it expensive to move a radiator?
Moving a radiator costs less for electric radiators than for central heating radiators. The cost of moving a radiator to another wall is higher than moving it a few inches due to additional pipework being needed. Jobs to temporarily remove a radiator for decorating work are priced lower than work to move radiators.
How to Lift and Carry Cast Iron Radiators | Quick & Easy Guide to safe handling | Foundry Cast Iron
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- Most searched keywords: Whether you are looking for How to Lift and Carry Cast Iron Radiators | Quick & Easy Guide to safe handling | Foundry Cast Iron Updating Cast Iron Radiators look amazing, but their weight can often lead to difficulty moving them into the house. We want your delivery and installation to go as smoothly as possible, so we’ve got some advice about how to properly carry a cast iron radiator after delivery. Follow the instructions and diagrams below.
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How to safely handle and move a cast iron radiator – YouTube
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Cast Iron Radiators for Hot Water & Steam Heating – PexUniverse
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Take a Good Look at Vintage Radiators – This Old House
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How to Remove a Cast Iron Radiator | eHow
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- Most searched keywords: Whether you are looking for How to Remove a Cast Iron Radiator | eHow Updating Most people don’t want big, clunky radiators sitting in their living rooms or kitchens once they’ve modernized their central-air systems. Others don’t mind the look of cast iron radiators, but need to move them in order to paint or remodel the floor.
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How to move a cast iron radiator — Vintage Cast Iron Radiators
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- Summary of article content: Articles about How to move a cast iron radiator — Vintage Cast Iron Radiators There are some basic rules when moving radiators. The first one is to make sure you have some strong friends at hand, never try and lift … …
- Most searched keywords: Whether you are looking for How to move a cast iron radiator — Vintage Cast Iron Radiators There are some basic rules when moving radiators. The first one is to make sure you have some strong friends at hand, never try and lift … Cast iron radiators are very heavy! Follow our guidelines to help you
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Moving cast iron radiators — Heating Help: The Wall
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- Summary of article content: Articles about Moving cast iron radiators — Heating Help: The Wall However, use of a good hand truck and some BIG friends makes all the differnce in the world. I d, however, stand some on end and then palce … …
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Cast Iron Radiators for Hot Water & Steam Heating
About Cast Iron Radiators
Inexpensive – when compared to other types of radiators on the market (aluminum, panel type, Victorian style and others).
Higher level of comfort – uses radiant heat instead or convection, resulting in more natural and proper temperature distribution.
Flexibility in installation – with a wide operating temperature range from 150°F to 220°F
High thermal mass – means less equipment (i.e. boiler) cycling & wear and higher energy efficiency.
It’s simple to install – no special parts are needed (such as diverter valves and thermostatic valve heads needed for panel style radiators).
Heavy – a single cast iron radiator may weigh anywhere from 40 to 150 pounds or more and will require a physically able person (or two) to position it in place.
Rough look – the radiator has a rough, unpolished surface which may be unappealing to some.
Sizes
Features
(2) 1-1/4″ FNPT bottom connections (with protective plastic caps)
(2) 1″ FNPT top connections (with protective plastic caps)
Multiple 1/8″ tappings (plugged) on the sides for air vent installation
Primer base coating, can be painted to match interior décor.
Legs for freestanding installation
(2) 1-1/4″ FNPT bottom connections (with protective plastic caps)
Bottom grille (pipe & valve cover)
Multiple 1/8″ tappings (plugged) on the front and sides for air vent installation
Primer base coating, can be painted to match interior décor.
Legs for freestanding installation
Recommended accessories
Frequently Asked Questions:
Due to their simple yet robust design, cast iron radiators have a long and proven track record in the domestic steam and hot water heating industry.They are suitable for a very wide range of applications, from smaller residential to large commercial, and can work with virtually any type of hot water or steam boiler.Radiator sizes available at PexUniverse include 4×19, 4×25 and 6×25 cast iron slenderized (tube style) models and 5×20 cast iron ray style radiators with different number of sections. For slenderized series, first number denotes the number of tubes and approximate depth of the radiator (4-1/2″ for 4×19 & 4×25; 6-7/8″ for 6×25 ), while the second indicates the height. For cast ray series, both numbers denote actual depth and height respectively.4×19 and 4×25 models are best suited for residential and light commercial uses, whereas 6×25 models are mostly intended for larger commercial applications. 5×20 cast ray radiators are well suited for both uses.Similarly to other types of radiators and baseboard heaters, cast iron radiators are sized based on BTU heat loss calculations.The following features are standard on all cast tube/slenderized radiator models (4×19, 4×25 and 6×25):The following features are standard on all cast ray radiator models (5×20):For hot water use:1. Hot water radiator valves (Matco-Norca AHV series or similar).2. Air vents (either manual – such as CK-100 model, or automatic – such as 417-3, HAV-125 models or similar, with 1/8″ MNPT connection)3. (2) black plugs to close the top 1″ ports (4×19, 4×25 & 6×25 slenderized series only).4. Brass or black bushings, if reducing the bottom connection to the radiator valve (or supply & return piping).5. Y-strainer or dirt trap on the return line before the boiler (either standard or magnetic) – to collect and retain sediment.For steam heating:1. Steam radiator valves (Matco-Norca BARVY, BARVYN, SGV series or similar).2. Air vents (such as Varivalve)3. (2) 1″ black plugs and (1) 1-1/4″ black plug to close the unused ports (1-1/4″ only for 5×20 cast ray).Other parts may vary depending on the installation and can be found in the Heating Supplies category.A: Cast ray series (5″ x 20″) also utilize convection as a means for heat transfer, increasing the BTU output by over 50% comparing to a similar size cast tube models (4-1/2″ x 19″). In addition, cast ray radiators are twice as heavy (section to section comparison) as cast tube.A: Only the 5×20 cast ray series are designed to be recessed (10-20% reduction in BTU output). Cast tube slenderized radiators are not designed for a recessed (in-wall) installation.Pipe sizes are generally based on radiator surface area (sqft – see individual product specs for details) and the recommendations are as follows:For hot water (2-pipe – 1 supply and 1 return): 1/2″ for circuit (loop) 100 sqft and below, 3/4″ for over 100 sqft.For steam (1-pipe): 1″ for up to 28 sqft, 1-1/4″ for up to 62 sqftApproximate surface areas are (per section): 1.6 sqft for 4×19, 2.0 sqft for 4×25, 3.0 sqft for 6×25 cast iron slenderized (cast tube) and 2.25 sqft for cast iron ray style.It is best to use the top air vent port on the return side of the radiators for both hot water and 1-pipe steam applications.A: Since radiators provide heat via radiant heating form of energy, any cover will create a barrier between the radiator and the room and will hinder it’s efficiency.Yes, it is normal for the radiator to have a tiny wobble because it’s a large 1-piece rigid assembly. This will go away when radiator is positioned and connected to the piping.These radiators are expected to last a lifetime when properly installed.Yes, they are coated with primer and can be painted with water-based paint to match the interior colors. Paint smell usually goes away within several hours after the initial start-up.For hot water installation, air eliminators (also known as air separators) are highly recommended, since cast iron rusts easily in presence of oxygen and air eliminators help to capture and vent excess air molecules from the system water. We recommend using either Spirovent Jr or Taco 4900 series, or similar. In absence of an air eliminator, it is best to use rust inhibitor to protect the system.
Take a Good Look at Vintage Radiators
They dry wet gloves, warm homemade pies, and, topped with a pan of water, they can even humidify the air. But the primary reason old cast-iron radiators stand in millions of American houses today is for their ability to gently and evenly heat a room. Late Victorian–era ones with embossed scrollwork and floral motifs are also a reminder of a time when even the most utilitarian fixtures featured high-style design and fine craftsmanship.
Freestanding radiators date to the 1860s, when pioneering American heating contractor Joseph Nason designed an accordion–shaped iron manifold with a central rod to hold its fins, or sections, together. This steam system had a single pipe connecting the radiator to a boiler. As the water boiled and steam rose to fill the radiator, it circulated through the fins and transferred heat to the room. When the steam cooled, it condensed to water and drained back down the pipe and into the boiler, where it was reheated.
By the early 1900s, these one-pipe steam radiators were being replaced by hot-water versions with two pipes—one to carry water from the boiler to the radiator, and a second by which it exited and traveled back to the source to repeat the cycle. These two–pipe radiators are the most desirable ones found at salvage yards today because they work with both hot-water and steam boilers, says Chuck Bauer, co–owner of Bauer Brothers Salvage in Minneapolis, Minnesota. So whether you want just one vintage radiator to complete that finished basement or enough to outfit a new addition, you need to figure out which kind of heating system you have before you shop.
Work with a plumber
Harry James, co–owner of New England Demolition and Salvage in East Wareham, Massachusetts, tells his customers to work with a plumber to determine how big or small the radiator should be based on the Btu—a measure of a radiator’s firepower—needed to efficiently heat the room. The dimensions of the space where you plan to install it need to be factored in as well. A tall, slim six–fin unit may fit nicely between two windows in a front parlor, but two short eight–fin radiators that tuck under the windows may heat the room better.
If you plan to install a radiator in a newly built kitchen, for instance, find one that closely matches those in the rest of the house to help blend the new construction with the old. Your house’s architectural style should also influence your choice. A plain radiator with squared–off corners is well–suited for a clean–lined Craftsman, while an ornately embossed one with rounded fins and curved feet is better for an Italianate. The raised patterns on Victorian–era radiators have even inspired people to use them in purely decorative ways.
When replacing a radiator, consider downsizing to a smaller unit. “Back at the turn of the century, houses didn’t have much wall insulation. “It took giant radiators to warm them,” says James. Those same houses have since been weatherized, and a new radiator that’s the same size as the original will overheat the space and “cook you out,” he says.
The most common problem with old radiators is leaking—either through a faulty shut–off valve, a damaged bushing (the metal sleeve that seals fin connections) or a cracked fin. Such cracks typically occur when radiators aren’t in constant use during the winter, and water left inside freezes and expands. With replacement parts hard to find, it often makes more sense to replace a cracked radiator than to repair it.
Some salvage dealers test their inventory for leaks by pumping the radiators full of air. If the air pressure goes down, it’s a lemon. In the absence of a “pressure test” guarantee, make sure any dealer you buy from will replace a radiator or issue a refund if it leaks.
Find the right radiator
Radiators are often priced by the fin and cost between $10 and $20 per section depending on height, depth, and decoration. Shorter radiators that fit under windows are more scarce than tall models and tend to be on the higher end of the price range, says Bauer.
Most salvage yards sell radiators caked with old paint, much of which contains toxic lead. Buyers can either strip the radiators themselves, taking precautions to avoid releasing lead dust or fumes into the air, or hire a professional to sandblast them. Either way, it’s important to immediately coat the bare metal with an oil-based primer. Left untreated for more than a day, the cast iron will begin to rust, says Bauer. Most radiators are then finished with an oil-based enamel that holds up well to heat.
Finding just the right radiators for your space, getting them cleaned up, and hiring a plumber to install them may seem like a hassle. But before you resort to tinny electric baseboards, remember that these coils of cast iron have been warming homes for more than a hundred years. They must be worth the trouble.
How to Turn Them Into a Table
Victorian-era housewives topped cast-iron radiators with marble slabs so they could do double duty as food-warming stations. Today, a salvager with a bit of imagination might use them as legs for a console table for the front hall. Here’s how:
1) Select a pair of tall decorative radiators with flat tops. Narrow five- or six-fin radiators work best where space is tight.
2) Position radiators about 3 feet apart, ends facing the wall.
3) Slide a section of perforated galvanized pipe strap (shown inset), available at plumbing supply stores, around the top section of the fin closest to the wall.
4) Fold strap ends so holes line up, and secure to the wall with a toggle bolt (for drywall) or a screw and anchor (for plaster).
5) Top with a stone slab, thick glass, or wood plank cut to overhang the radiators by 2 inches in front and on the sides; the back edge should sit flush against the wall. Protect the underside of the top from scratches with felt pads or clear rubber disks.
Where to find it:
Radiator resource:
New England Demolition and
Salvage, East Wareham, MA
508–291–7258
Bauer Brothers Salvage Inc.
Minneapolis, MN
612–521–9492
www.bauersalvage.com
How to move a cast iron radiator — Vintage Cast Iron Radiators
We know that you know but we really want you to really know…… Cast iron Radiator are heavy, very heavy.
It’s important that you read our terms and conditions so you know what we will and will not do. We have some simple rules to protect ourselves from injury and want you to take some time to consider how you too will protect yourself and your radiators. This means you have to think about at least two things
Firstly
You must takes care not to damage your radiator(s) when moving them
There are some basic rules when moving radiators. The first one is to make sure you have some strong friends at hand, never try and lift radiators on your own.
Radiators should be held upright at all times when being moved. This is because the seals between each section are put under strain when being moved. The longer the radiator, the greater the risk of damage. The middle sections are particularly vulnerable.
Do not drag the radiator along the floor as this too will strain the seals. This technique is usually used when moving radiators on your own so, again, make sure you have a someone else to help you to avoid the temptation to drag.
The best technique is to use a stack truck but you may not have one of these available. That said, if you’re having your whole house refitted the small additional cost to purchase one is worth it, you ought to get one for around £40 – £60. Make sure you get on capable of lifting 200kg. It’ll also come in handy for any number of other tasks around the home and garage.
If you don’t have the room or don’t want to go to the trouble of purchasing a stack truck or if the radiator does not have a good place to grasp it, make a handle for it. It is better to take some time now making a handle rather than take more time later trying to relieve an injured back. A simple solution is to pass a short length of floor board at each end of the radiator between the last two sections.
For smaller radiators one person can hold both ends of each floor board. For larger radiators each end of each floor board can be held by two people (one person at each corner).
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