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You should aim to build a habitat that has climbing and hiding enrichment for your pet with lots of logs, hides and caves. In the hot side of the tank you should add: Reptile hammock(s).When traveling with a bearded dragon, keep them inside of an enclosure that provides room to move and is lined with soft material to cushion any sudden motion. Use hand warmers or heat packs wrapped in a towel to provide warmth. Secure the enclosure in place to prevent harm in the case of an accident.
- Connect the ropes to the suction cups provided.
- Choose the height you want to place the hammock in the enclosure.
- Ensure the curved front edge is low enough for your dragon to climb onto with ease.
| Tank size | 20-50 gallons (75-190L) for hatchlings juveniles about 50 gallons (190L) for young adults 75-120 gallons (280-455L) for adults: the bigger, the better! |
|---|---|
| Humidity | max 60% ideal humidity: below (30-40%) |
| Lighting | UVA/UVB 10.0 basking light |
| Substrate | paper towels newspaper tiles |
Contents
Should bearded dragon hammock be on hot or cool side?
You should aim to build a habitat that has climbing and hiding enrichment for your pet with lots of logs, hides and caves. In the hot side of the tank you should add: Reptile hammock(s).
What is a good setup for a bearded dragon?
| Tank size | 20-50 gallons (75-190L) for hatchlings juveniles about 50 gallons (190L) for young adults 75-120 gallons (280-455L) for adults: the bigger, the better! |
|---|---|
| Humidity | max 60% ideal humidity: below (30-40%) |
| Lighting | UVA/UVB 10.0 basking light |
| Substrate | paper towels newspaper tiles |
What is the best way to travel with a bearded dragon?
When traveling with a bearded dragon, keep them inside of an enclosure that provides room to move and is lined with soft material to cushion any sudden motion. Use hand warmers or heat packs wrapped in a towel to provide warmth. Secure the enclosure in place to prevent harm in the case of an accident.
How many hours a day should a bearded dragon bask?
Lighting: A full spectrum ultraviolet light source (such as ReptiSun) is required for about 12-14 hours each day during spring and summer and 8 hours in the fall and winter. UV rays cannot pass through glass or plastic so avoid any covering between the bulb and the bearded dragon.
What is the highest temperature a bearded dragon can survive?
…
Proper Temperatures for an Adult Bearded Dragon.
| Temperature Areas | Ideal Temperature Range |
|---|---|
| Cool-down Area | 80°F – 90°F |
Should I put water in my bearded dragons tank?
Bearded dragons of all ages should be provided a bowl containing fresh water each day. It is recommended to use a shallow water bowl to prevent your bearded dragon from falling in and possibly drowning.
Should I put sand in my bearded dragons tank?
It is best not to use loose substrates such as sand and wood shavings. Loose substrates can be bought in bulk and are cheap and easy to spot-clean. However, they can cause impaction if accidentally eaten. Impaction is a very serious health issue and the risk is especially high in baby bearded dragons.
Do bearded dragons like to climb?
Bearded dragons are semi-arboreal creatures. This means they naturally spend at least some of their time up in trees! This also means that they like to climb. No, correction, they love to climb.
How long can a bearded dragon be out of its tank?
Adult Beardies
Adult bearded dragons, or those that are seven (7) months old or more, can be let out of their cage for up to two (2) hours on a regular basis. Do note, though, that this timeframe is the maximum, not the minimum.
Is a 40 gallon tank good for a bearded dragon?
Baby bearded dragons will do best in tanks no smaller than 20 gallons and ideally 40 gallons (36 inches long X 18 inches wide X 18 inches deep). What is this? Young adults and adults should have at minimum a tank of 55 gallons, but ideally 75 gallons.
Do Beardies like car rides?
Take Your Bearded Dragon for a Ride
Take your bearded dragon next time! Many bearded dragons love a good car ride. Just make sure you keep him on a leash and safely secured within the vehicle. It’s a good idea to possibly keep him in a Kritter Keeper while in a moving vehicle just for safety purposes.
How do you transport an adult bearded dragon?
How do I transport my bearded dragon to the vet? A good-sized cat carrier or even a big shoebox (for boots for example) are good ways to transport your beardie for short trips to the vet. Again, make sure they are comfortable inside their carriers by providing lots of warm towels and portable heat packs if necessary.
Are Hammocks good for bearded dragons?
Additionally, hammocks provide an amazing basking spot. Bearded dragons love to bask – and anything that gets them a bit closer to their basking bulb usually becomes their favorite spot! Finally, if you decide to go with a hammock made from seagrass, your bearded dragon will shed much easier.
Why do bearded dragons stay in one spot?
Lethargic can have a much more serious definition. Lethargic can mean that the bearded dragon doesn’t move much at all, stays in one location for days and days, and acts very weak and unresponsive. A bearded dragon acting lethargic could be a serious sign of a possible health issue.
Best Bearded Dragon Hammock: Learn What’s Right For Your Beardie
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- Table of Contents:
Why Do Bearded Dragons Like Hammocks
Best Bearded Dragon Hammock
Essential Considerations When Buying a Bearded Dragon Hammock
How to Hang a Hammock
How to Clean a Bearded Dragon Hammock
Tips to Using Suction Cups
Final Thoughts
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Bearded Dragon Habitat: 7 Tips To Setup The Best Enclosure
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Bearded Dragon Habitat
Types of Bearded Dragon Enclosures
What Size Tank Should I Get For A Bearded Dragon
Bearded Dragon Lighting
Bearded Dragon Substrate
Supplies Decor and Landscaping
Summary
Turtle Tanks Best Tanks Setup Ideas Filters Cleaning & More
How to Setup a Bearded Dragon Tank – YouTube
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How to Setup a Bearded Dragon Tank – YouTube
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Why You Must Have A Bearded Dragon Hammock | Bearded Dragon Tank
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- Summary of article content: Articles about Why You Must Have A Bearded Dragon Hammock | Bearded Dragon Tank It is not only the way how they climb on the hammock. If you hang your hammock a little bit higher in your cage, you will see your bearded dragon jump on it. …
- Most searched keywords: Whether you are looking for Why You Must Have A Bearded Dragon Hammock | Bearded Dragon Tank It is not only the way how they climb on the hammock. If you hang your hammock a little bit higher in your cage, you will see your bearded dragon jump on it. Interested in a bearded dragon hammock? I show you where you can get it cheaply and I tell you why it is absolutely awesome!
- Table of Contents:
Can Bearded Dragons Eat Peppers Everything You Must Know
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10 Bearded Dragon Hammocks (Your Beardie Will Love) – Reptile Maniac
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- Summary of article content: Articles about 10 Bearded Dragon Hammocks (Your Beardie Will Love) – Reptile Maniac We suggest first putting the hammock near the basking area. However, don’t put it too high or you risk overheating your bearded dragon. If your bearded dragon … …
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- Table of Contents:
Introduction – Best Bearded Dragon Hammock
List of the 10 Best Bearded Dragon Hammocks
What to Look for in a Bearded Dragon Hammock
Do I Really Need A Bearded Dragon Hammock
Are Ladders Necessary
Conclusion
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Best Bearded Dragon Hammock: Learn What’s Right For Your Beardie
Bearded dragons are not the best climbers, but they do love some height and comfort. Dragons tend to spend a high percentage of their day basking in the sunlight, soaking up the essential UV rays that they need to keep them healthy.
They love being comfortable while doing it and the hammock has proven highly effective in providing comfort and also encouraging climbing and moving around the tank, keeping your reptile fit and healthy.
The bearded dragon hammock can enhance relaxation, it can encourage exercise and it can be used for basking or hiding. A welcome addition to your enclosure when creating a comfortable habitat for your dragon.
Why Do Bearded Dragons Like Hammocks
What is it about the hammock that appeals to your bearded dragon? Dragons of all ages will happily clamber onto a hammock and relax.
Bearded dragons are immediately drawn to a hammock as it provides them with a comfortable basking place, an excellent hiding place and it’s fantastic when it’s time to shed, the dragon rubs against the hammock during this time to relieve itching and help with the shedding process.
Further reading:
Best Bearded Dragon Hammock
Niteangel Bearded Dragon Hammock Reptile Lounger
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The Niteangle Bearded Dragon Hammock is a reptile lounger that has been made from hand woven seaweed to provide a soft and sturdy hammock or lounger for your reptile pet.
Complete with strong suction cups and leather strings, this hammock comes in three sizes, ensuring you find the right solution for your dragon.
Pros
Soft and sturdy
Hammock or lounger
Made from hand woven sea grass
Three sizes – Rectangle 16”x18”, Triangle 17”x12.5”, Rectangle 28.5”x7.2”
Cons
Thick and hard to maneuverer
Suction cups don’t stick well
Subject to mold
Carolina Hammock for Bearded Dragons
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This is a pretty pink hammock that is comfortable, providing the bearded dragon with an elevated position, ideal for basking and hiding. The hammock comes complete with suction cups, it is hand sewn and suitable for most enclosures, including plastic, acrylic and glass.
Pros
Comfortable material
Decent size 16”x16”x22”
Comes with three suction hooks rated for up to 3 pounds of weight
Hand sewn
Cons
Suction cups lose effectiveness over time
Zoo Med Repti Hammock For Reptiles
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Zoo Med offers a welcome resting place for your bearded dragon to help reduce stress and make use of unused space. Available in two sizes and made from nylon mesh, this hammock is strong, durable and long lasting.
Pros
Made from strong and durable nylon mesh
Available in two sizes: 14.2” and 17.5”
Cons
Feet and nails hook in the mesh
Suction cups does not work well
AUBBC Bearded Dragon Hammock
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This bearded dragon hammock is made from one hundred percent natural sea grass providing a comfortable lounger for your reptile pet. Durable, comfortable and easy to install, this hammock not only comes with free accessories but also with a full one hundred percent money back guarantee.
Pros
100% natural sea grass
Suitable for most reptiles
Size 12.5”x12.5”x16.5”
Free items include a bendable jungle vine, a bendable vine with leaves, three hooks and feeding dish.
Cons
Sticky hooks fall off causing the hammock and dragon to fall
Flimsy in design
ADOGGYGO Reptile Hammock
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This is a comfortable hammock available in a funky camouflage color, which can blend in with your tank decor with ease. The perfect place for your dragon to relax and play. This hammock is available in a large size, suitable for younger and adult bearded dragons.
Pros
Comes with sticky hooks, not suction cups which can work for all enclosures, including wood, plastic, acrylic, and glass
Machine washable
Size 15.7” x 15.7” x 19.7” – suitable for adult and junior dragons
Comfortable
Cons
Cannot move the sticky hoods
Where to Put Your Bearded Dragon Hammock
The next important decision you need to make when it comes to adding a hammock to your bearded dragon enclosure is where to place it.
The hammock is very versatile and can be used both inside and outside of the tank, which makes it the ideal accessory for any dragon owner.
The first place where you can place your bearded dragon hammock is in your dragon basking area. As you know your dragon loves to sit under the heat lamps during the day, soaking up the heat and essential UV rays.
Placing the hammock in the basking area, enables your dragon to lie comfortably, relaxing and soaking up the rays they need to ensure optimum health.
The second option is to place the hammock anywhere in the enclosure to be used as a hiding place. Dragons like to have somewhere they can go and hide.
Sometimes they need some time to themselves and having the hammock in the tank, enables your dragon to move away from the heat and hide away from watchful eyes. Hiding helps to reduce stress, especially in dragons that are on display all day in glass tanks.
If your dragon loves going out with you, then the hammock can be the perfect way to travel with your pet. The hammock can be used in the car, providing a safe and comfortable place where your dragon can relax during the trip.
This reduces the risk of your dragon running around the vehicle, getting caught under your feet and keeping you distracted from the road.
It’s recommended to install your hammock at different heights and using different configurations, this offers your dragon a new and interesting environment, while encouraging exercise through climbing.
Essential Considerations When Buying a Bearded Dragon Hammock
Sizing
The size of the hammock is a very important factor to take into consideration when buying a bearded dragon hammock. You need the hammock big enough for your dragon to get comfortable, but it also needs to fit into the enclosure.
A full-sized hammock in a small tank will take over the tank, not leaving much room for anything else.
A full sized adult bearded dragon can weigh up to 500g, if not more and they can measure up to 24 inches when at full size. This means you need a hammock which is sized from 12 to 24 inches.
In addition to the tank size, you also want to pay very close attention to the type of tank you are using. The majority of bearded dragon hammocks come with suction cups.
Suction cups are only effective when used in glass, plastic or acrylic tanks. You may have to look for adhesive hooks which can replace the suction cups, this will enable you to add the hammock to a wooden enclosure.
Mesh or Non-Mesh
Bearded dragon hammocks come in a choice of materials and options, including mesh and non-mesh designs.
The mesh bearded dragon hammocks are often made of sea grass, which makes it a natural option to add to your enclosure.
If you are working on creating the ultimate natural enclosure for your dragon, adding a mesh sea grass hammock may result in the perfect finish to your design.
The benefit of mesh is that it provides a welcome place for your dragon to rub on when they are shedding, helping to relieve itching and help with the shedding process.
Of course, using mesh also comes with a host of disadvantages which should be taken into consideration, including the risk of your dragon’s feet and claws getting stuck in the mesh.
Often the mesh is made from sea grass or plastic, these cannot be washed in the washing machine and will require hand cleaning, often using a toothbrush to brush off any dirt and debris.
Heat Resistance
Heat resistance is another very important factor to take into consideration when buying a bearded dragon hammock. If you want to place the hammock in the basking area, then you need to ensure the material can be placed in a heated area for long periods.
One of the many problems experienced isn’t only choosing the wrong material, but the suction cups used to hold up the hammock struggles with the heat, causing the suction cups to lose their suction, which can result in the hammock falling. Make your decision with care.
Ease of Cleaning
Cleanliness is essential to the overall health of your bearded dragon, which means cleaning their tank thoroughly using a mild detergent to eliminate the risk of dangerous pathogens and pests.
The same applies when cleaning the hammock, which is why you will want to take ease of cleaning into consideration. Some hammocks can simply be thrown into the washing machine, while others will require hand cleaning.
Suction Cups
The suction cups appear to be the weakest part of any bearded dragon hammock and this is why you want to pay close attention to this detail to ensure the suction cups or hooks that come with the hammock can handle the weight of a fully grown adult dragon, which can be up to 500 grams or more.
How to Hang a Hammock
Hanging a hammock is easy. Simply follow the steps below:
Connect the ropes to the suction cups provided Choose the height you want to place the hammock in the enclosure Ensure the curved front edge is low enough for your dragon to climb onto with ease Wipe the suckers and the tank wall to ensure they are clean, eliminate dust which will help with the suction cup sticking to the side of the tank and reducing the risk of the hammock falling. Stick the hammock to the back or side walls of the enclosure and let your dragon enjoy their new and comfortable space
How to Clean a Bearded Dragon Hammock
There are a number of ways in which a bearded dragon hammock can be cleaned. This is determined by the material chosen.
One of the most common ways to clean a bearded dragon hammock is to remove any dirt and poo using an old toothbrush, as it is easier to get off when the hammock is dry.
If you have chosen plastic or sea grass, then these materials cannot be machine washed, but they can be soaked in hot water for five minutes. The majority of bearded dragon owners add some mild detergent to the water, give the hammock a good wash and rinse and then allow to dry.
Other materials, which are not plastic or sea grass, can be machine washed, making it even easier to clean the hammock when cleaning the rest of the enclosure.
Tips to Using Suction Cups
Suction cups which have not been installed properly can result in a fall for your bearded dragon. In most cases the reason the hammock falls when the dragon climbs in is due to the suction cups.
Before starting, both the surface and the suction cups need to be cleaned, removing any dust and debris. It’s recommended that you wash the cup with warm soapy water and dry with a lint free cloth. The cups will not adhere to a dirty or dusty surface.
You can enhance the suction by using some Vaseline or cooking oil on the rim of the cup. The cup should be pressed firmly all the way down onto the surface. To ensure you remove all air bubbles, push down a few times on the suction cup to ensure a secure seal.
Remember temperature and humidity variations can cause the cups to come loose. They are most reliable in temperatures ranging from 22 to 120 degrees Fahrenheit.
Final Thoughts
Choosing your bearded dragon hammock is down to personal preference. The mesh options tend to leave an opportunity where your dragon can get their nails or feet caught, which can result in a serious accident. But the sea grass woven designs are best for naturally designed enclosures.
Many bearded dragon owners prefer the non-mesh options, which are not only safer and reduce the risk of feet and nails getting caught, but they are machine washable making it easier to keep the tank clean.
The Pink Batik fabric design from Carolina and the canvas design from ADOGGYGO are arguably the best options that eliminate the risk of catching nails and causing damage. These can be used for dragons of all sizes and are suitable for larger enclosures.
Bearded Dragon Habitat: 7 Tips To Setup The Best Enclosure
Bearded Dragons are friendly and popular pet lizards that originate from Australia.
Their popularity is due to them being very easy to care for. However, setting up a great bearded dragon habitat can be difficult for beginners.
First time keepers can make enclosure set-up mistakes such as using the wrong lighting and substrate that can impact the health and wellbeing of their pet.
When provided with a good habitat and the correct size tank, bearded dragons can live for 14 years.
If you want to know how to build the perfect bearded dragon enclosure so that your Beardie can live to its fullest then keep reading!
Bearded Dragon Habitat
Every type of Bearded Dragon species is native to Australia.
There are eight subspecies of Beardies who all live on separate parts of the island. Where they live in Australia determines their habitat. This can be anything from deserts to subtropical woodlands.
This guide will focus on the Pagona vitticeps species as it is the most common lizard to be kept by beginners:
Species Location Pogona barbata Eastern Australia Pogona henrylawsoni Western and Central Australia Pogona microlepidota Northern Australia Pogona minor minor Western and Central Australia Pogona minor minima Houtman Abrolhos Islands Pogona minor mitchelli Northwestern Australia Pogona nullarbor Southern Australia Pogona vitticeps Central Australia
The bearded dragon vitticeps species lives in Central Australia so its habitat is all desert.
In the wild they have over 12 hours of intense sunlight a day with very few lakes or ponds nearby. This creates an environment that is hot and dry (i.e. low humidity).
There are some scrubs, small trees, and rocky areas in Central Australia. This means this species is only semi-arboreal and is not an extreme climber.
Because of the environment they live in Bearded Dragons have many unique adaptations:
They have a third eye to detect shadows above them.
Their head is inverted to allow water droplets to slide from the top of their head to their mouth.
They have spike-shaped scales as a defense mechanism from many desert predators.
Their habitat is the reason why they need UVA and UVB rays for everyday metabolic function. The dry environment is also the reason why they stay hydrated by eating insects and vegetation over drinking.
Because the desert is very hot Bearded Dragons squeeze into small rock crevices to cool down. They also climb plants for higher basking spots to evade predators.
In captivity you must provide climbing and hiding enrichment and replicate the intense sun and low humidity.
First time keepers often buy enclosures that are too small, have coiled UVB lights, use dangerous sand substrates or forget to provide climbing and hiding enrichment.
Below is the perfect bearded dragon habitat.
Best Bearded Dragon Setup
Beardies in captivity should live in an environment that mimics their real desert habitat. Their enclosure should be large enough and have the correct lighting, temperature and humidity. It should also have climbing and hiding enrichment:
Attribute Requirement Tank 75-gallons and wooden or plastic Temperature 95-100℉ (high) and 75℉ (low) Humidity Between 30% to 40% Lighting UVB tube light and 75w UVA basking light Substrate Reptile carpet Supplies & Decoration Branches, Hammocks, Half-Logs, Plants, Hides and Bath Dish
Bearded dragons are naturally solitary and very territorial of their habitat.
They should not be housed with other beardies – not even for mating. Females store sperm so they do not have to near males more than once per breeding season
This species will at some point fight over food, hides or their territory. They have been known to cannibalize baby beardies.
Types of Bearded Dragon Enclosures
There are three different materials to choose from for a Bearded Dragon tank:
Glass (cheapest) PVC plastic Wooden (best)
Plastic and wooden vivariums are usually enclosed and have a glass front panel. They are both the best enclosure types because they are very effective at holding heat in.
However, glass tanks are popular with beginners because of their price and availability. They also provide a more complete view of your reptile. If you decide to purchase a glass vivarium make sure not to place it by any drafty window, radiator or fireplace.
Place their enclosure in the corner of a room to help reduce heat loss.
After purchasing a vivarium you will also need to choose a lid:
Standard
Split-top
Single or Double hinged lids
Front panel sliding/lifting doors
The best lid type is a split top where one half is able to slide off and the back half stays stationary. The back half provides enough room for a lamp to stay undisturbed (you can easily burn yourself by touching them accidentally).
Make sure that the lid doors close properly to avoid any injury to your lizard.
What Size Tank Should I Get For A Bearded Dragon?
A Bearded Dragon enclosure must be long, wide and at-least 75-gallons in size. The exact tank size will depend on the age and size of your beardie. You can use the handy chart below to help you find a vivarium according to your beardie’s age:
Tank Size (gallons) Bearded Dragon Age (months) 20 1 30 2 40 3-4 50 5-6 65 7-8 75 9-12 120 12+
The emphasis for a Bearded Dragon’s tank should be on floor space. They will most likely spend the majority of their time there hunting, climbing, soaking, and sleeping.
Bearded dragons are large reptiles so they need enough space to walk and climb.
Because reptiles are ectotherms they rely on their environment to regulate their body temperature.
They require a range of temperatures from 100℉ to 75℉ within their habitat and it will need to be large enough to create a real thermogradient (i.e. warmer and cooler areas).
Bearded Dragon Lighting
Your vivarium will need an overhead UVA basking bulb of 50-75 watts. This will mimic the intense sun’s rays.
It is best to use a dome-head lamp that can sit directly on top of the mesh screen lid. Alternatively you can use a hanging lamp fixture. It should be replaced two to three times annually. The temperature of their highest basking spot to be 95-100℉.
Then they will also need a UVB tube light. You should use a tube shape UVB light not coil shaped.
Fit the UVB light using a tube light hood that secures underneath the mesh lid. You do not want the light sitting on top of the mesh because it blocks out 40% of the rays.
Many coil lights are ineffective in delivering the appropriate amounts of UVB. Like the UVA bulb it will need to be replaced every six months as its UVB production wears out.
Timers are especially valuable for lighting.
Bearded Dragons need 12-hour day and night cycles. Use a light timer for at least two plugs and program it for 12 hours daily from 7AM to 7PM.
Feed your bearded dragon at the beginning of the day to give them enough time to digest their food before lights out.
Infrared night heat lights are not recommended as they disturb your beardie’s circadian rhythm.
Enclosure Heating
Bearded Dragons rely on external heat sources to regulate their body temperature. They require a temperature gradient that moves from an intensely hot 100℉ to a cool 75℉.
A bearded dragon’s behavior will indicate if their body temperature is too high or too low:
When they feel hot they hold their mouth open and are brightly colored.
When they are cold they will turn their darkest possible shade to absorb any heat source available.
Their habitat needs to have a range of temperatures to keep them healthy so their tank should have both a cool side and a hot side.
The hot side should include the basking lamp.
Your Bearded Dragon will need different decor and landscaping to get as close as they need to the basking lamp. The highest height of basking should be six inches from the top of the tank. You can use strong branches or reptile hammocks to achieve this.
The cooler side of their habitat should be far away from the basking lamp and have hides and shading plants.
To measure the habitat’s temperature you should use a digital thermometer and probe. Stick-on thermostats are not reliable.
If temperatures drop below 65℉ at nighttime then use a ceramic heater.
Enclosure Humidity
Bearded Dragons require low humidity levels because of their native desert habitat. The ideal humidity level ranges from 30-40%.
If humidity is too high then your dragon will be susceptible to developing medical issues and respiratory infections. When humidity levels are lower than 30% your lizard will dehydrate.
You can tell if your Bearded Dragon is dehydrated as they will have extremely wrinkled skin. Beardies will choose to soak when they are shedding or dehydrated.
The best way to maintain humidity is to include a soaking water dish in their tank and let it evaporate.
A water dish can be a plastic container (without toxic dyes/paint) and should be large enough to fit their body. The best size is 2″ deep, 7″ wide and 10″ long. Do not fill the dish any deeper than their ear level – this will prevent any chance of drowning.
They are unlikely to drink directly from the water dish as most of their water intake comes from the vegetation and insects they eat.
Bearded Dragon Substrate
Sand is a major part of their habitat in the wild. However desert sand is not like the commercial sand sold for reptiles. Sand in their native habitat is rich in calcium and other minerals and they will ingest small quantities that provide them with just the right amount of these precious nutrients. Commercially-available sand is often poor in calcium, so the instinct for a calcium-deficient dragon is to keep eating it and get a blocked intestine, a condition called impaction.
In the wild Bearded Dragons easily hunt insects without ingesting sand particles. The issue with impaction seems to be caused by calcium deficiency. The idea that dragons eat it by mistake seems to apply only to young and inexperienced dragons.
These sand particles are tiny but can cause huge medical problems for your bearded dragon’s intestines and cause impaction. Impaction is a very common health issue for reptiles and is fatal.
The best substrate is reptile carpet made of felt, fake grass or hardened desert ground. Sand can be safely used with adult beardies, only if sufficient sources of calcium are provided: the most common way is through supplements in their diet, but some people like to put a sepia bone (or shed some small pieces of it) in the enclosure, since these would be calcium rich and readily available. The benefit of using sand is replicating conditions similar to their natural habitat and allowing them to dig: one of their favorite activities.
You can also use 12×12″ ceramic tiles to cover 30% of the tank to help keep your bearded dragon’s claws short whilst providing a nice area for them to cool down.
Supplies, Decor, and Landscaping
You should aim to build a habitat that has climbing and hiding enrichment for your pet with lots of logs, hides and caves. In the hot side of the tank you should add:
Reptile hammock(s).
Strong branches.
Rock decor.
If you find rocks and branches from the wild then soak them in boiling water to remove any potential bacteria or parasites.
For the cool side add half-logs, cave hides and vine or bush-like plants that are pesticide-free.
Making the best bearded dragon habitat requires you to think through the eyes of your bearded dragon:
What will provide them with the most engaging landscape?
How can you make their tank as healthy and appealing as possible?
Bearded dragon habitats are commonly desert-themed, with fake cacti, a desert background and sand-like reptile carpet.
Summary
Bearded dragons are some of the most fun reptiles to keep and have very simple husbandry requirements after setting up their enclosure.
A perfect Bearded Dragon habitat should have:
75-gallon wooden or plastic tank.
50 watt dome-head UVA basking bulb.
Tube shape UVB light secured underneath the mesh lid.
Felt reptile carpet.
Two dishes for food and water.
Lots of plants, decor, hides and caves.
When purchasing their supplies remember not every product is 100% guaranteed to be reptile safe. The pet reptile industry is not regulated so do your research, take caution and read lots of reviews.
If you follow all of the steps in this article you will be sure to have a healthy beardie.
After you have finished building their habitat don’t forget to take them out for daily handling!
Have you ever owned a Bearded Dragon before? How did you setup their enclosure? Let us know in the comments below.
Bearded Dragon Habitat: What Is the Best Tank Setup?
You may have heard that bearded dragons feel most comfortable in desert vivarium setups and that like to go on walks outside. Also, although they are solitary animals, many videos show several beardies happily living together.
However, things are not as straightforward as it may seem at first.
Did you know that:
Although desert setups are most suitable for beardies, having sand as a substrate can be outright dangerous;
Too many strolls in unfamiliar surroundings can stress your dragon;
In order to be safely kept together, multiple beardies need large enclosures.
So, with all the different options and dilemmas flying around the web, you may wonder what the truly best setup for bearded dragons is?
Let’s try to find out!
I’ve summed up the best resources on the topic, so you can give your pet the setup he deserves.
> Further Reading: The Complete Bearded Dragon Care Sheet
The Bearded Dragon Setup in Short
Tank size 20-50 gallons (75-190L) for hatchlings juveniles
about 50 gallons (190L) for young adults
75-120 gallons (280-455L) for adults: the bigger, the better! Temperature range high: 110°F (43°C)
low 70°F (20°C) Humidity max 60%
ideal humidity: below (30-40%) Lighting UVA/UVB 10.0
basking light Substrate paper towels
newspaper
tiles Supplies & Decoration basking structure (wood/rock)
hiding place – cave
branch
hammock
Bearded Dragon Natural Habitat
The bearded dragon habitat is arid areas of Australia, where vegetation is scarce, and the ground is mostly in the form of dry, hardened soil, rock and some loose soil and sand. Diverse vegetation doesn’t really thrive, but there are still plenty of desert bushes and small trees suitable for hiding and climbing.
Water is scarcely available, but it is well-utilized when it does accumulate. That is why beardies love to soak.
The Bearded Dragon Tank: What Type of Enclosure Should You Use?
According to what we can find in bearded dragon natural habitat, we can conclude the best-suited match in captivity is a desert type terrarium.
Note that not all features of a typical desert vivarium setup are appropriate for beardies, especially the young ones. However, even if you don’t go wild with sand substrate and elaborate desert-like decorations, there are certainly some principles of desert setup you need to respect:
Beardies like it hot.
Low humidity . Bearded dragons have evolved to breathe air that is relatively dry. High humidity – above 65% – can cause deadly pulmonary disease in your pets.
. Bearded dragons have evolved to breathe air that is relatively dry. High humidity – above 65% – can cause deadly pulmonary disease in your pets. Beardies like and require a bright light above their tank, which will keep them warm and alert. Also, they require an additional UV light source – UVA and especially UVB light is necessary for proper metabolism and bone development of your pet.
> Further Reading: The Bearded Dragon Behavior (Common & Unusual) & Health
Tank Size and Type for Bearded Dragons
Tank size will depend on the age and size of your beardie.
If you are getting a juvenile, you will house him in a smaller, simpler setup until he grows up.
With adults, you can go with a full, large desert vivarium setup. Adult bearded dragons are of moderate size but are still quite bulky and active. Hence, they need relatively large terrariums.
Juvenile enclosure
A juvenile enclosure is a tank your beardie will be housed in before he reaches his adult size. For small babies, a 20-gallon tank is enough.
Let’s see what you need to house your little beardie:
Glass tank (20-50 gallons / 75-190l)
Simple flooring (tiles, paper towels, newspapers)
Incandescent heat bulb within a clamp lamp + Linear fluorescent UV bulb
Terrarium mesh lid
Cave for hiding
Basking rock
Very shallow water bowl (baby dragons drown easily!)
One branch for climbing
You can find more details on each of these components below.
As a general rule, keep juvenile enclosures minimalist, as this will prevent crickets and other feeder insects to hide from your pet. You can go wild with decorations later when you set up his adult cage.
Type of Tank for a Bearded Dragon
Did you know that tank itself can be made of different materials and that some are more suited for bearded dragons than others?
Let’s find out what types of tanks you can utilize for a bearded dragon enclosure.
Glass Terrariums
Glass tanks are a classic. They offer high visibility and are easy to disinfect. They are not as prone to scratching as plastic tanks. However, for adult bearded dragons, you will need quite a large cage, with the ideal volume being 120 gallons ( ~450 liters). With this in mind, let’s shed a light on a couple of issues lurking if you intend to use a glass tank only.
First, the larger the glass tank is, the more prone it is to breaking.
Secondly, a large tank will cost you significantly more than a smaller one, mostly because it has to be made out of thicker glass.
The way to save money on glass tanks is to buy second-hand ones from aquarists. You may be able to find them relatively cheap. Since you won’t be filling it with water, the possible leakage won’t bother you. Just make sure that the tank doesn’t have a hefty crack since this will get worse in time.
While I would always pick a glass tank for a juvenile bearded dragon, for a fully-grown adult other options could be more suitable.
Plastic Enclosures
In the past couple of decades, plastic tanks have evolved a great deal and went from simple plastic crates to professional, advanced enclosures.
These pre-made reptile tanks are usually made out of PVC or ABS plastics. Usually, only the front side is made out of clear, see-through plexiglass-type material; other sides are opaque. Some consider this a disadvantage when it comes to viewing, but the chances are that your pet might feel more secure in this type of enclosure.
Plastic tanks are also less prone to breaking than glass tanks, and you have the option of drilling in the holes for cables, making the entire setup neater.
The issue with plastic tanks is that they are also really expensive – especially the professional one-piece molded terrariums such as Vision cages, with built-in light structures and other convenient tweaks. It is more affordable to try to find a DIY-style plastic tank.
Wooden Enclosure
Let’s face it – building a big glass tank, or buying a large pre-made plastic enclosure of 100 gallons or more can get expensive.
For those of you who dislike plastic, like DIY projects, or simply want to save money, wooden enclosures might be a winning option.
One of the smarter hacks out there is to utilize a wooden shelf or a cabinet as a terrarium. You can also build or order a wooden tank made from scratch. Breeders frequently do this to reduce the housing costs for many animals they have to keep separately.
By construction, wooden tanks are similar to plastic ones. A plywood enclosure will have all sides made out of wood except for the front, which is usually a two-piece sliding glass door system.
One big drawback of using wood for your tank is that the material is porous – it absorbs water which makes it prone to rotting and mould.
You may think this is not an issue because desert terrariums are generally dry. But think again – you will have to give your dragon sprays, and he will splash around in his water bowl. The wood will soak all of that in, along with impurities that will make it smelly and difficult to disinfect.
The way to combat this issue is to apply a non-toxic, waterproof coating such as pond shield over the entire wooden surface. It will make smooth and waterproof, and also give it a nice, glossy finish. However, note that quality products of this kind might be hard to find, especially at a low price.
A very detailed tutorial for a very well thought-out plywood design can be found here:
The Best Bearded Dragon Lighting
Light is a very important feature of almost any reptile tank. Besides giving you a nice view of your pet and his home, proper lighting matters for your beardie’s health too.
Being diurnal lizards naturally exposed to the blazing Australian sun, bearded dragons need their entire enclosure to be lit up so they can feel at home.
The second important point is the UVA and UVB light, which are necessary for your pet to synthesize vitamin D and for proper function of the overall metabolism, including calcium metabolism and strong bones.
An ideal option for young dragons is a combination of regular incandescent bulb housed within a simple, affordable clamp-lamp, and a separate UV fluorescent light in a regular case. You can put both of these your mesh lid. Advantages of this system are its small price – especially when compared to mercury-vapour bulbs – and the fact that you can later use them for your adult enclosure.
> Further Reading: The Bearded Dragon Diet
UVB Lights
Linear fluorescent bulbs are the most common type of UVB lighting used in most terrariums. Bearded dragons need the strongest grade – 10.0; the ultraviolet light of your choice needs to offer 5-7% of UVA/B radiation and needs to reach 80% of their habitat.
Since juvenile beardies grow fast, they require enough UVB for their bones to grow strong and to avoid any risk of metabolic bone disease. It is best to have a full-spectrum UVA/UVB lamp, but be aware that UVB is the more important type of the ultraviolet spectrum, and therefore a must.
UV lights will lose their power in time and have to be replaced about every six months. If you want to be on the safe side, you can get a UV meter to measure the precise radiation of your lamp.
Mercury Vapor Bulbs
For an adult bearded dragon tank, you can use mercury vapor bulbs which provide full-daylight spectrum plus heat, all in one. The warming potential is why you will have to use special ceramic cases for these bulbs. Usually, they look elegant and have an adjustable height.
Note that all of this increases the price of mercury vapour setup, although some find it more convenient and nicer looking than two light component setups I described priorly.
I have to point out that proper terrarium lighting and the science behind UV lights is a broad topic. Feel free to check out our vivarium lighting article, and consult other resources as well.
Ideal Tank Temperature: The Heating Devices
As you have learned before, beardies are desert dwellers. That means that they prefer high temperatures, but not only that. It also means that they need a temperature gradient – a really warm spot under the basking lamp, and a cooler opposite side of the terrarium.
Besides lights, having an elongated tank instead of a square one will help you in providing the gradient.
The temperature at the basking spot should reach 110°F (43°C). The average temperature should never fall below 70°F (20°C) – not even at night. Some sources say 65°F (18°C), but I would rather stay on the safe side.
In most homes temperature doesn’t fall below this line anyway. However, in case the temperature gets lower than 70°F in your “dragon room”, you should get an undertank heater to keep the temperature in the desired range.
Undertank heaters are more suited for this purpose than ceramic bulb heaters because it is a more natural type of heating for nighttime. In nature, rocks that have heated in the sun during the day radiate that heat at night – from below.
Bedding: What Is the Best Bearded Dragon Substrate?
While recommendations on adult dragons and substrates vary, everybody agrees that you should never, ever keep a juvenile bearded dragon on any type of loose substrate.
But, why?
Well, baby beardies eat with great enthusiasm and energy. They will attack their prey with such speed and ferocity that they may end up swallowing the substrate, which can lead to bowel impaction and all kinds of nasty and dangerous health complications.
> Further Reading: The Bearded Dragon Behavior (Common & Unusual) & Health
The other issue is that bearded dragons defecate a lot, which makes maintaining the hygiene of the tank with substrate difficult.
Let’s have a quick overview of types of substrate you can use for your beardies.
Suitable substrate Not suitable substrate Newspaper
Paper Towels
Vinyl Tiles
Ceramic Tiles
Slate
Reptile Carpets Sand
Coconut Coir
Wood Shavings
Newspaper
Newspaper is probably the cheapest and most easily available disposable ground cover for your beardie’s tank. Most newspapers soak in liquids with ease, which is good to avoid spreading the mess around the tank. The paper is also quite sturdy, so it won’t slip under your pet’s feet when he gets active.
Freshly printed newspapers should always be left out in the room for several weeks before putting them in an enclosure. That way you will be sure that the printing paint has dried and won’t leach.
Paper Towels
Paper towels are another disposable substrate favorite. They look neater and cleaner than newspapers do, and it is very easy to replace them. Paper towels have superior absorbing powers. They are most commonly used in juvenile tanks.
Sand
Sand is the most debated substrate when it comes to desert vivarium containing lizards. On the plus side, sand is highly decorative and is considered the most natural choice for desert vivariums. However, a great downside is that sand can and will cause impaction if your lizard accidentally eats it. It is also harder to keep clean and can cause unwanted microbe buildup, which increases the risk for diseases.
If you still decide to use sand in your cage despite all the risks, you will have to take out the soiled parts every day, and also have to change it completely about once per month. When feeding your beardie, offer food on a smooth surface such as a plate or a smooth plastic lid to decrease the risk from accidental swallowing of the substrate.
Sand is never recommended for young dragons, as they are voracious eaters and will most likely end up with quite a lot of sand in their guts, which can effectively kill them. Unlike the young ones, older dragons tend to pick food with their tongues rather than just ram their entire jaws into it.
Coconut Coir
Although coconut coir has great anti-microbial properties, it is not recommended for bearded dragons. Besides being a loose substrate which carries a risk for impaction, coco coir tends to retain moisture, which is not suitable for a desert vivarium. Remember, too much moisture can lead to respiratory infections.
Wood Shavings
The answer to the wood shavings dilemma is quite simple: you should never use wood shavings in your terrarium. Besides being unnatural for bearded dragons and other lizards, it can contain chemicals and also lead to impaction when undigested. So there goes a big No for wood shavings in any beardie tank.
Vinyl Tiles
Vinyl tiles have become a popular option for terrariums. They are cheap, come in a variety of colors, and are easy to cut. They are also non-porous, which means that you can swipe water and poop right off the surface with ease.
However, vinyl is not perfect. It is smoother than, for example, stone slate, and provide less grip for your lizard. Also, as adverse health effects of plastic become more studied, potential issues with PVC are starting to surface. Since the floor of your terrarium will be heated, there is a possibility that plastic can leach hazardous compounds. No research has been conducted to either deny or confirm this in a terrarium setting, but because of what we know when it comes to human housing – I would rather err on the side of caution.
Ceramic Tiles
When thinking about ceramic tiles, the smooth ones from your bathroom will instantly come to mind. However, there are plenty of patterns and textures available on the market, including those that mimic stone and sand. Ceramic tiles have plenty of other advantages as well. They are inexpensive, relatively easy to cut. Beardies also tend to love the fact that the tiles will get heated.
At the same time, this is the only feature you have to be really careful about – you don’t want to use ceramic tiles or stone slates underneath the basking spot if your lamp produces a lot of heat.
Slate
Slate is the most decorative and natural looking floor cover on the list. Besides that, it has other superior qualities. It provides a good grip for lizard’s movement and helps him wear down his nails. It warms up nicely and then radiates the heat, which bearded dragons love.
However, slate also has a couple of faults. It is harder to cut than other alternatives such as vinyl or ceramic tiles. The other issue is that slate is somewhat porous, which means that it will absorb faeces and other impurities more than vinyl or ceramic tiles. For you, that means more diligent cleaning and more bleaching in order to prevent it from smelling and harbouring bacteria.
Reptile Carpets
While reptile carpets are often used for beardie enclosures, note that they don’t last too long. Since beardies defecate a lot, and all over the place, they get soiled quickly.
If you are still getting a reptile carpet, make sure to get one that is bearded dragon-friendly – with no fiber loops sticking out. Bearded dragons can get their long claws and fingers stuck in there and get hurt.
Bioactive substrate
There will always be people in the hobby who are willing to accept the risks that come with loose substrates. Some enthusiasts are passionate about creating an exact copy of the species’ natural habitat. Others want to encourage natural behavior and hate to see their pets frustrated when they lack a place for digging and burrowing.
If you are one of these people, you may want to consider using a desert-type bioactive substrate in your beardie vivarium.
A bioactive substrate should be able to hold moisture and air, thereby providing a habitat for beneficial microflora and fauna – bacteria and tiny invertebrates that promote biological decomposition of the terrarium waste. That is exactly what makes it bioactive.
A bioactive substrate is also able to support plant growth. If the layer is thick enough, it will hold shape – which means that your pet will be able to create burrows, and not just dig with no results.
However, the risk of compaction is still present with bioactive substrates. It is best for every owner to make an individual assessment according to the beardie’s character, health status, and eating habits.
Another issue with this type of substrate is moisture – since bioactive substrate needs to be moist in order to preserve its functions, you will need to monitor the terrarium humidity more carefully to ensure it won’t exceed desirable levels.
Bearded Dragon Supplies and Accessories
In all vivariums, decorative elements are not there just for the looks – they provide important functions, so your pets can bask, rest and hide according to their natural needs and instincts.
There are several essentials for bearded dragon tanks. Beardies require:
Basking rock or log under the heat lamp
under the heat lamp Branches and/or hammocks for climbing
and/or for climbing A tight hiding place; good and easy ones can be made from paving stones
Basking Structures
Bearded dragons love to bask, as almost all diurnal lizards do. Provide them with a basking area – such as a flat rock setup, or a log right under the spotlight. However, be very careful that the basking spot doesn’t overheat, especially if it’s a stone surface that can store a lot of heat. You can prevent this by picking the right strength of light and by assessing the right distance from the basking site.
Climbing Structures – Branches and Hammocks
Another favorite activity of all bearded dragons is climbing. The climbing behavior is also observed in their natural habitats. When perched up on some high spot, they can bask in the sun, watch out for predators and track down prey – all at the same time! That is why your pet beardie will gladly hang out above ground in the terrarium setting too.
Sturdy, clean branches are always a good choice for bearded dragons. Another convenience that the pet market has to offer are specially designed hammocks. They can also be homemade. Most beardies find these extremely comfy and love to hang around in them once they get used to it.
Hiding places
Some resources express their concern about using caves and other types of cover for bearded dragons. Since they need high amounts of UV light to stay healthy, the worry is somewhat justified.
However, hiding behaviors are natural for all animals, and especially the ones that are predated upon. A lizard that doesn’t have a place for hiding will always be one stressed lizard.
To point it out one more time: healthy, active dragons love to bask. If your beardie spends too much time hiding, rather than removing his hiding place, you should try to track the reasons for his behavior. Is he eating regularly? Are there any signs of illness? Is he under stress because you’ve changed his surroundings, or perhaps you have been handling him too much?
If you’ve tracked down the reasons for excessive hiding, but believe that the behavior is preventing your beardie from recovering – you can make a smaller, shallower cave out of paving tiles that will cover about half of his body. The other half of his back and tail will stay exposed to UVB light, so he will make some use out of it.
Should I Take My Bearded Dragon For a Walk?
Despite everything you can see on the web and on YouTube, beardies do not long for a walk in the park or a drive to an exotic location.
We will explore this topic in-depth in our upcoming article on health and behavior. But what you need to know for now is that all that bearded dragons require is access to sunlight in a secured, predator-free, pesticide-free area – to roam around, bask in the sun, and perhaps snack on some dandelions. Ideally, it should be your own, or a friend’s backyard – an environment you are in full control of.
> Further Reading: The Complete Bearded Dragon Care Sheet
How to Walk a Bearded Dragon Properly
Here is some advice on how to start taking your bearded dragon out:
Never take out a beardie that is not mature enough, and that isn’t used to being handled.
You should start slow and take your bearded dragon out to a chosen location only for a few minutes at the time.
Take the beardy outside only when the weather is suitable – as warm as the middle temperature in their terrarium. Never take them out when the humidity is over 65%, and when the temperature in the shade is below the lowest one you have in the tank. Always wait for the sunshine to go outside.
Don’t make these excursions every single day.
After a while, you will be able to start assessing your beardie’s temperament. Some individuals are by nature shyer than others. Look for signs of stress – such as avoiding food and water and excessive hiding – after every “picnic”.
To make your beardie feel more comfortable, he should have a cover – a bench, or similar “roofed” structure he can run under when he gets scared.
Using a harness is advisable. You can buy a bearded dragon harness, or make one yourself with relative ease.
If your bearded dragon shows signs of distress, end the “walk” and take him back to his habitat
Never mix your beardie with other pets, even if you believe they do not pose a threat to him.
Should I Have a Feeding Tank for My Bearded Dragon?
Because beardies tend to get messy, and also to avoid issues with sand impaction, the recommendation to feed them in a specially-designated feeding tank used to be common. However, this feeding principle should be avoided, mostly because of stress your beardie might endure because of it.
Juvenile bearded dragons are especially prone to get stressed. You probably already know that a newly acquired beardie needs a substantial amount of time to get used to his new enclosure once you first put him in there. They often refuse to eat or leave their shelter for days.
With moving your pet to another cage for feeding, the stress of changing environment practically repeats itself over and over again. Juvenile bearded dragons are more cautious and edgy than adults because in nature they are an easy prey to bigger predators.
Although adult beardies are not as skittish as juveniles, they still prefer to have meals in the place they are comfortable in.
The bottom line is that it is better to ensure that your main enclosure is safe for feeding – with no sand, or small crevices the feeder insects can crawl into.
> Further Reading: The Bearded Dragon Diet
Can Bearded Dragons Live Together or With Other Species?
Bearded dragons are solitary by nature. However, in captivity, people often keep several animals together, or even in mixed species enclosures, for easier housing, or out of sheer pleasure of having more than one pet. If you decide to do this, there are several critical rules you need to know:
The first is having an enclosure that is spacious enough, and with a sufficient number of basking and hiding structures to accommodate the needs of all pets.
I would not recommend having more than two animals per tank, or three if your enclosure is really spacious – about double the size of the best option for a single beardie (which means more than 200 gallons / 700 liters).
Having a spare tank to separate your pets in case something goes wrong is a must.
Know that bearded dragons will opportunistically feed in on smaller lizards. Roommate beardies must be of the same size to avoid triggering the predatory drive.
Never house two males together, as they will fight for territory. Two females are the most stress-free option for keeping a couple of beardies.
Some hobbyists are brave enough to try to keep different species lizards together. It is important that they are of the same size, and that they come from same or very similar habitats. Species that my colleague Ben recommends as potential beardie roommates include desert tortoises, shingleback lizards, blue tongue skinks, and nocturnal desert geckos.
Now It’s Your Turn
As you can see, there is no exact formula for a perfect bearded dragon setup. There are plenty of options when it comes to the type of tank, substrate, and decorations, and a couple of options for lighting.
You can combine what suits your taste and needs as long as you watch out for basic needs and safety of your beardie. An environment that is dry, warm, well-lit with both visible and UVA/UVB parts of the spectrum, safe and comfortable will give your beardie just what he needs to thrive.
What is your ideal bearded dragon enclosure? What’s your experience with different types of tanks and substrates? Does your beardie like to be taken out? We would love to hear from you, so feel free to post your story in the comments below!
Glossary
ABS – very durable type of very solid, glossy thermoplastic material.
Diurnal – an animal active during the day.
PVC – Polyvinyl chloride, a type of thermoplastic used very widely across many industries.
UVA – The part of the ultraviolet spectrum that supports your beardie’s overall health, activity and appetite.
UVB – The part of the ultraviolet light that is responsible for vitamin D3 synthesis, which is essential for calcium metabolism.
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