Iodine Teat Dip For Goats? Trust The Answer

File number: FDA-2021-D-0632 Issued by: Guidance Issuing Office Center for Veterinary Medicine Office of Regulatory Affairs

BACKGROUND:

teat dips

Teat disinfectants are medicines that are applied to the teats of lactating animals immediately after milking and removal of the milking machine to control the spread of mastitis. Because mastitis control is inherent in the purpose of teat dip use, mastitis control constitutes their intended use, whether or not specifically labeled for that purpose. In the FEDERAL REGISTER of August 9, 1977 (42 FR 40217), the authority published a proposal for a regulation that would identify teat dips as new veterinary medicinal products and oblige them to be subject to approved NADAs. The proposed regulation is not yet finalised. Comments submitted in response to the proposal and other factors have led to a re-evaluation of the proposed regulation. This guide sets the agency’s policy pending the final decision on the proposed regulation.

udder washes

Many products are marketed which are intended and labeled for cleaning the udders of lactating cows and goats prior to milking. Use of these products is in accordance with the Grade “A” Pasteurized Milk Ordinance (United States Public Health Service Recommendation of 1965), which includes the following statements:

The udders and teats of all dairy cows must be cleaned and treated with a disinfectant solution just before milking and be relatively dry before milking. Udder rinses may be classified as veterinary medicinal products if they are formulated to contain one or more antimicrobial chemicals as active ingredients and the labeling includes information to control mastitis or the spread of mastitis, or the labeling includes other information to control microorganisms in or on the animal.

POLITICS:

Teat dips and udder rinses classified as medicinal products may currently be marketed without NADA approval. At a later date, these drugs may need to meet the NADA approval requirements of Section 512 of the Act.

Udder washes that are advertised as cleaning agents and not classified as medicinal products could be subject to food additive regulations unless they qualify as GRAS. This decision is made for individual products based on the instructions for use and the potential to contaminate milk and dairy products.

We do not anticipate taking regulatory action against teat dips and udder washes based on a 501(a)(5) charge unless we have specific information that a particular product may be harmful or ineffective. The *Center for* Veterinary Medicine will continue to review the labeling of all teat dips and udder washes and provide comments on their regulatory status and labeling adequacy.

Manufacturers of teat dips and udder rinses that fall under the drug definition are subject to the registration and licensing requirements of Section 510 of the Act. Part 211 of the GMP regulations applies to the manufacture of teat dips and medicated udder rinses.

*Material between asterisks is new or revised*

Issued 7/1/82

Revised: 3/95

Submitting Comments Submitting Comments Online You may submit comments about guidance online or in writing at any time (see 21 CFR 10.115(g)(5)). If you are unable to submit comments online, please send written comments to: Dockets Management

Food and drug management

5630 Fishers Lane, Rm 1061

Rockville, MD 20852 All written comments should be identified with the document’s docket number: FDA-2021-D-0632.

Questions?

We can all use a helping hand from time to time, especially if you are a farmer….

Stephanie Patel BVetMed MRCVS Molecare Farm Vets

The problem of iodine deficiency can be identified as early as the 18th century in England when deficiency was widespread among the human population, with areas such as the South West appearing to be more prone to the problem. It was not until the early 20th century, and particularly when dairy farmers in the region began supplementing their cows with iodine, that a reduction in deficiency was also observed in the human population. While deficiency in humans is not as common today, mineral deficiencies in livestock have not gone away and remain difficult to diagnose.

Iodine deficiency is now more commonly seen in cattle herds than dairy herds, as dairy farmers often use teat dips containing iodine, which helps maintain adequate levels of the mineral in their system. In cattle herds, iodine deficiency is often presented as calf losses, meaning careful monitoring of your livestock’s diet and mineral levels is the best preventative solution to this otherwise costly problem. It is also always recommended that significant calf losses of more than 5% be checked for deficiency with your local veterinarian.

The two most common causes of iodine deficiency are a lack of iodine in the diet or a high level of iodine antagonists in the diet. Iodine antagonists include very lush grass after excessive manure or inorganic fertilizer application and high calcium intake, but are most commonly associated with consumption of cabbages such as kale, canola, collards, Brussels sprouts, and root tips. The very wet weather of recent years has also resulted in significant leaching of minerals from the soil and as a result mineral deficiencies are being diagnosed on many farms where they were previously absent.

Iodine is an important mineral for your herd as it is used in the thyroid to produce hormones that speed up reactions in most organs, increasing metabolic rate and speeding growth. Iodine deficiency in breeding animals can lead to poor fertility, increased cleaning, and the birth of weak or dead pups. It is also worth noting that dead hatchlings do not always show an obvious goiter and should therefore not be taken as an indicator of iodine deficiency. You may also see reduced growth rates in your young stock.

If you think your herd is lacking some minerals, we recommend taking blood samples from 6 animals 2-3 months before calving to check their selenium, copper and iodine status. Taking blood at this stage is ideal as there is still an opportunity to treat a deficiency during the remainder of the pregnancy as mineral supplementation will not necessarily give immediate results so timing is key to ensure pre-calving levels are correct can be increased. Females grazing cabbages in late pregnancy or in the breeding season require supplemental iodine in addition to providing grass return or alternative forage.

Whilst iodine supplements in boluses or slugs are available on the UK market these have not always proven to be sufficient for cattle breeding. Oral drenches have been shown to be more effective when dosed correctly, but must be used every 2-3 weeks. The “gold standard” we recommend for iodine supplementation is a 7-8 ml infusion of a 5% iodine tincture. This should be applied to the thin skin of the flank crease pocket once a week for 5 weeks prior to calving, and before and during breeding. This is a cheap, safe (for the cow, but watch out for those hind paws!) and effective method of supplementation. With this type of application, some of this iodine is absorbed through the skin and some is licked off and taken orally.

Unfortunately, while supplements can be administered to your herd if deficiencies are identified, in animals born with goiter the damage caused is permanent and they are unable to respond to the supplement provided. It is also worth noting that applying iodine to the soil or pasture is not recommended as plant uptake is poor and the iodine is quickly leached from the soil.

If you would like to discuss mineral deficiencies or supplementation in more detail please contact the practice on 01392 872934 or email [email protected]

Teat disinfection is an important part of udder infection prevention.

Teat disinfection is an important part of preventing udder infections by helping to reduce the amount of bacteria on the teats.

and should be done before and after milking. Wiping the teats before milking is essential to complete the cleaning process.

It also stimulates the milk ejection reflex and removes excess disinfectant.

Choose color from the drop down menu above; Red, Yellow, Green, Blue

The Side Dipper™ is a non-return style. The dip solution at the top of the beaker never spills back into the bottom reservoir of fresh solution.

The Side Dipper™ offers a unique way to dip teats. Choose color above. The cup and bottle become a natural extension of your hand as you grip the soft squeeze bottle. By gently squeezing the bottle, a small amount of teat water (approx. 4cc) is dispensed; everything you need thanks to the mug’s patented design.

Non-return style means the dip solution in the top portion of the cup never spills back into the bottom reservoir of fresh solution. This ensures a clean sanitary bathroom with every press. available in 4 colors including green, blue, red, yellow. You can get separate colors for pre and post dips if you use different products for pre & post. Or choose a color to match your show herd display. Instructions for use: Place the cup under the udder and over the teat. Push the shell up to the base of the udder. When the teat is inserted into the cup, it displaces the dip and covers the entire teat from tip to base. The splash guard/teat guide (the black ring) prevents the dip from spilling when the cup is quickly moved from teat to teat.

The new Side Dipper can reduce the amount of dip you currently use by 25-75%. (Depending on your current method of applying the teat dip). Provides better coverage than most spray systems. The Side Dipper is made using the latest technology in engineering plastics to give you a durable and quality teat dip cup that will last for many seasons.

The side dipper handle is ideal for cows in tie stalls, tie stalls or milking parlours. The side spoon is the preferred dip cup for goats and sheep!

A vertical tip upper dipper is also available (1160-537). It is recommended for parallel milking of cows or goats.

replacement bottles available; just looking for HDC bottle

When I was younger I often thought of the many cherished writing subjects that would accumulate in my portfolio. I have to admit, a blog about teat dip was not among them. However, teat dip is an important issue for dairy goat farmers. In this world of commercialized dairy, navigating the aisles of pre-mixed dip solutions can become quite frustrating. Luckily, it only takes a few simple ingredients to create a naturally sanitizing solution.

First of all, the use of teat dip is a critical step in the milking process. Bacteria can easily enter the teat opening after milking and cause mastitis. Spraying or dipping each teat in a disinfectant solution not only cleans the area, but also seals the openings to prevent bacteria from entering the udder. I always start each milking by cleaning the udder with soap and water (natural baby wipes work too) and finish with a sanitizing bath or spray.

In general, I prefer to make everything on our farm as close to nature as possible. This applies in particular to the direct handling of raw milk; I don’t want polyethylene glycol (one of the many ingredients in commercial teat dip solutions) making its way into my bowl of oatmeal! Because of this, I’m sticking with a few basic ingredients and making my own teat dip at home. The following recipe was suggested to me by the farm that sold us our first dairy goat:

teat dip

1 part water

1 part rubbing alcohol

5-10 drops of tea tree oil

Note: I have not used this recipe on a goat that is nursing a kid. I don’t know how a child could react to the rather strong taste of tea tree oil when trying to breastfeed shortly after using it.

I prefer to use a spray bottle to apply it. This is mainly because my deer don’t like dipping. Instead, she happily throws ninja kicks at my teat dip bottle, regularly spilling its entire contents. Also, I prefer spraying because it reaches a larger surface. Usually 3-4 good squirts will sufficiently saturate her udder and teats. It is also important to keep the spray nozzle clean and free from clogs. A dirty sprayer will do little to produce a spotless udder!

As the efficient little housewife that I am, I like to find multiple uses for household items. Yes, that includes teat dip. I tend to use this disinfectant spray on the many cuts our country-bred children have received. I also regularly spray the solution over our milking parlor (after scrubbing with soap and water) to keep the area nice and clean.

I am currently researching various methods of natural parasite control. If any of my readers have recipes they use for a natural dewormer or techniques they find helpful in parasite prevention, don’t hesitate to share your ideas!

Adapted by Barry Steevens and Rex Ricketts

Institute of Animal Sciences

Originally written by Donald L. Ace

Dairy Science Extension, Pennsylvania State University

Healthy feeding practices and good housing facilities result in optimal growth and high milk production and contribute to the good health and welfare of dairy goats.

Feeding the dairy goat

Keep these goals in mind when feeding dairy goats:

Feed a young animal with enough energy for growth and feed an adult with enough energy to maintain a fairly constant body weight;

Provide enough protein, minerals and vitamins in a balanced feeding program to maintain a healthy animal; and

Supply provides enough supplemental nutrition during pregnancy and lactation for fetal development and milk production.

Optimum growth, good health and high milk yields are the result of sensible feeding practices. Dairy goats are not unique in their body requirements; They will respond to good dietary practices.

Digestible fiber is particularly important in the diet of dairy goats. Too much grain in relation to feed does not promote good ruminants and is a costly feeding practice.

When feeding, keep minerals and trace elements separate. Always feed them separately. Feed hay in a hay rack that doesn’t allow for waste. A recommended feeder type is a keyhole feeder. Don’t overlook feed testing as an economical way to feed your herd the right ration. Ask your local MU Extension specialist about this program.

Feeding children and yearlings

Children are born without natural protection against diseases. The mother’s first milk (colostrum) provides protection and gets the digestive system going. To be most effective, it must be fed before disease-causing organisms enter the mouth and digestive tract.

Wash the fresh deer’s udders and teats with warm water. Hand-milk half a cup of colostrum and feed it to the child within 15 minutes of birth. This is the best way to ensure the newborn gets some milk and gives it the most protection possible from organisms present on the fawn’s skin. Complete the first milking and save the colostrum for later feedings if you choose to hand feed. Otherwise, after the first hand-feeding, let the child breastfeed at will.

Clean feeding utensils immediately after each use. Use the same cleaning procedures you follow to wash milk-handling equipment or your dinnerware.

Table 1 is a practical milk feeding schedule. Heat the milk to 100 degrees Fahrenheit. Give extra water at two weeks of age.

Table 1

Milk feeding schedule.

Age Milk Yield Feeding Times Per Day 1 to 3 days 4 ounces (1/2 cup) 4 or 5 4 to 14 days 8 to 12 ounces 3 or 4 2 weeks to 3 months 16 ounces 2 or 3 3 to 4 months 16 ounces 2

Milk replacer may be fed from the fourth day; it should be at least 20 percent protein, 20 percent fat, and free of plant products. A lamb or high-quality veal milk substitute is recommended. Offer hay and grain aged one to two weeks. Wean yourself off milk when grain intake reaches 1/4 pound daily and children are willingly consuming hay.

If diarrhea is a problem, try the following mix:

beef broth

1 can

1 can fruit pectin (Sur-Jel)

1 package

1 packet of Lite Salt

1 teaspoon

1 teaspoon baking powder

2 teaspoons

2 teaspoons of water

to 2 liters

Make sure the solution is thoroughly mixed. Mix a fresh mix daily and feed instead of milk. Double the rate you fed. Feed as soon as you notice diarrhea. Use for 1-1/2 or 2 days and then return to the regular dairy diet.

After four to six months, the kids can receive a ration similar to that of the milking herd. Good quality hay and 1/2 pound of grain per day should provide an adequate growth rate. Bad hay can require 1 to 1-1/2 pounds of grain daily.

Feeding the milking herd

If milk production is important, feed maximum amounts of high quality hay balanced with a grain ration containing enough protein, minerals and vitamins to support production and animal health (Table 2). Grass or legume hay is equally acceptable. The higher the proportion of legumes, the lower the protein requirement in the grain mixture.

Table 2

Hay and grain rations for the milking herd.

Forage feeding Protein content in grain Mineral mix to be used Legumes or mixed, mostly legumes 14 to 16 percent High phosphorous mixes Grass or mixed, mostly grass 16 to 18 percent 2:1 Ca:P mixes

To determine the amount of grain to feed, consider the level of milk production, the amount and quality of feed consumed, appetite, and the state of meat formation. Thin, powerful females should have access to as much hay as possible and grain up to the limit of their appetites. Mid-lactation females who are in good meat should have all the hay they eat plus 1 pound of grain for every 3 pounds of milk produced. Late lactation may need no more than 1 lb of grain for every 5 lbs of milk.

Feed a grain ration formulated for a milk-producing ruminant (dairy cows). Rolled or shredded grain is tastier than ground grain. Urea is not recommended due to palatability issues. Some commercial cow feeds may contain by-product ingredients that are unpalatable to goats. Wet molasses is tastier than dry molasses. Beer or citrus pomace is a valuable source of fiber, especially when the available hay is of poor quality. Table 3 lists some tasty and nutritious rations that your local miller could mix up.

table 3

Try grain rations.

Ingredient Protein content in finished mix (lbs) 14 percent 16 percent 18 percent 20 percent Snapped or rolled corn 38 33 27 22 Oatmeal 20 20 20 20 Soybean meal (44 percent) 19 24 30 35 Beet or citrus pulp 10 10 10 10 Molasses 10 10 10 10 trace mineral salt 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 dicalcium phosphate 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 magnesium oxide 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2

Add a vitamin premix that provides 1,000 units of vitamin A, 500 units of vitamin D, and 3 units of vitamin E per pound of grain.

Weeds and grass are not a necessary part of a goat’s diet. A good pasture is a valuable source of summer forage. Vegetable tips and shreds can be used as an “extra”; not rely on them as their sole source of food.

Water is critical to good health and high milk production. A clean water source should be available at all times. When the water is heated in cold weather, goats consume more.

Dry feeding will do

If the deer is not thin, reduce the amount of grain to 1/2 to 1 pound per day. Feed her whatever food she eats. Hay fed during the dry season may be of lower quality, but then the grain ration should contain additional protein. Leaves, leaves and weeds are often useful to regenerate the stomach. If the dry ration differs from the milking ration, switch to the milking forage and grain ration two weeks before refreshing the deer.

Feed the buck

For convenience, you can feed the buck the same grain that was fed to the milking herd. Most bucks don’t need more than a pound of grain per day plus feed. Don’t let her get fat. Adjust the grit up or down accordingly. Always feed full food.

husbandry of dairy goats

Keeping dairy goats does not have to be expensive, but it does have to do justice to the health and comfort of the animals. There are five requirements for good goat husbandry:

The building should be adequately ventilated but not draughty;

Walls and ceiling should be free of condensation;

The littered area should be relatively dry and clean;

The hay, grain and water bins must be well constructed and arranged so that feed is not wasted or contaminated; and

The facilities should provide easy access to the animals and require a minimum of labor.

temperature

The comfort zone for dairy goats is between 55 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Non-sweating animals are much less sensitive to falling temperatures than to rising temperatures. Milk production, feed consumption and welfare are not affected by temperatures between 0 and 55 degrees Fahrenheit, but temperatures above 25 degrees Fahrenheit reduce feed intake and milk yield significantly. So it’s not about keeping the goats warm in the winter, it’s about keeping them cool in the summer.

ventilation

Air movement, either by mechanical or natural means, to remove heat, moisture and odors is a necessary part of a home design. Most pneumonia problems in dairy goats can be traced back to inadequate ventilation. Wet walls and ceilings are the result of poor ventilation, poor insulation, or a combination of both.

The rate of air movement is affected by the amount of animal heat generated and the temperature you wish to maintain in the building. Additional heating and insulation may be needed to keep barn air fresh and prevent water lines from freezing in winter. An air intake system must also be provided for good air distribution. Ventilation involves more than installing a fan to move some air.

Proper ventilation in the summer may require moving 150 to 200 cubic feet of air per minute per animal. Winter weather can reduce the amount of air to be exhausted to as much as 20 cubic feet per goat. Contact your local MU Extension specialist for assistance in planning the correct ventilation system. With proper ventilation you protect the animals, the building and the quality of the milk produced.

light

Windows are essential in a closed barn. They allow sunlight for warmth and drying and provide animals with a source of vitamin D. Well-lit barns are usually kept cleaner. In summer, open windows are important for air movement.

Accommodation for young cattle and the milking herd

There are two housing systems commonly used for dairy goats:

Playpen where the animals run freely in an enclosure or stall

Stable barns in which each animal is locked in a small box stall or tie stall

Playpens are an ancient system with many desirable features. With plenty of bedding, the manure pack for a herd of goats can be kept fairly clean and dry. The heat generated in the pack ensures a warm bed. There is plenty of exercise and an opportunity for the goats to exercise.

However, this type of accommodation has some problems. A manure pack that has built up gives off a lot of moisture to the stable air, even though it is superficially dry. In addition, haystacks should be placed away from the littered area to reduce parasite infestation. Irrigation equipment should be placed in an area where spilled water will not disturb the embedded pack.

Many goat farmers use a stall or barn that faces south or south-east, eliminating the need for mechanical ventilation. These are cold stalls that do not require additional heat or insulation and use normal air movement for ventilation. Goats move freely in and out of the pen area and into the paddock or feeding area. Bunkers for hay, water, minerals and grain are located on concrete slabs at some distance from the built-up manure pack.

Accommodation for the kids and other young stock can be included in the milking herd plan. However, young goats must be kept separate from the milking herd. Often the children are kept in 4 foot square boxes with at least one side slatted to allow air movement. Don’t build a plywood box with all four walls solid; Air movement does not reach the children. Normally a closed front contains enough openings to allow air evacuation. Offer a heat lamp to newborns and sick children. Larger children can be kept in a corner of the stable area in an enclosure made of movable hurdles.

The housing of the bucks must be separate from the milking herd and downwind. It doesn’t have to be elaborate and is often no more than a 5 or 6 foot shed with one side open to the south to give the bucks free access to an exercise area.

milking area

The milking area is part of the barn plan but should be separated from the barn area. It should have a concrete floor to facilitate cleaning and the milking platform should be 15 to 18 inches higher than the floor to facilitate milking. The platform should allow each animal to be tied 18 inches wide and 3 1/2 feet long. The crib should be 6 inches deep and 1 foot wide. If several goats are to be tied up and milked at the same time, a lever for opening and closing the stanchion head locks is helpful.

Some goat owners who keep their milking herds in barns milk their animals at a milking parlor located in a corner of the barn. However, dusty air and flies in the barn can mean that you need to locate the milking parlor in a separate, screened facility to ensure clean milk. A 5 by 8 foot room with a concrete floor and drain is sufficient to milk a small herd, but make sure there is plenty of light, either from natural sources or incandescent bulbs.

If the milk is sold to the public or to a processor, the farm is subject to state control, as is also required for the production of grade A cow’s milk. Check with your local health authorities and state inspector before beginning construction.

If the milk is to be used by the family, the degree of hygiene and cleanliness, and the size and type of building constructed, may be based on the common sense, pride, conscience, and finances of the owner.

Equip the milk house with a double sink for washing utensils, a water heater, refrigeration, a small table or work surface, and a rack for drying and storing utensils. At least 50 percent of the dairy house should be an open floor area with adequate space for equipment.

Regardless of the size of the herd, refrigeration must be available to cool the milk quickly. A household refrigerator can be used, but cold water cools milk more efficiently than cold air. The fridge or cooler should be large enough to hold a pot of water. The pan should contain enough water to match the amount of milk in the milk pail. If the herd is large enough and the milk production is 5, 10 or more gallons per day, it will be necessary to purchase a submersible water cooler or bulk tank for cooling purposes.

Cooling is crucial for the taste and quality of the milk. All milk contains bacteria, some of which comes from the air and utensils. If the milk stays warm for a short time, the bacteria start to multiply and the milk quality deteriorates. Therefore, chill the milk to below 40 degrees Fahrenheit immediately after milking and keep it at that temperature until it is processed and/or consumed.

Plans for the construction of a milking parlor and milking parlor as well as the construction of the milking house area are available from your local MU Extension Dairy Specialist.

fencing

Fences serve two purposes that make them an important part of a home plan – they keep goats in and dogs out. They also keep feeding goats away from your trees and shrubs and your neighbor’s flower bed.

Set 7-foot posts, either wood or steel, on 12-foot centers. Then either use a 4 foot high braided wire fence topped with an electric wire 12 inches above the braided wire or use an all electric fence. If using an all-electric fence, place the first wire 12 inches off the ground, then four more wires at 6-inch intervals for a total height of 36 inches. Use insulators on the post to secure the wires. The electric fence works well when weeds, grass and brush are not allowed to touch and short out the wires or when the ground is not bone dry during periods of drought. Your local farm shop can recommend the right equipment for you.

In summary, keep the plans as simple and economical as possible. Consider the health of your animals as well as the amenities a housing facility might offer. Contact your local MU Extension Specialist for more housing options for your dairy goat farm.

introduction

Teat disinfection is the cornerstone of any mastitis control program. Disinfecting the teats after milking (post-milking teat dip/spray) is one of the key points of the 5-point plan introduced in the 1960s and has since been shown to be effective in a multitude of studies. Disinfection before milking has not been used for so long, but is now widely used on farms.

There are two common methods of teat disinfection – either dipping each teat separately with a cup filled with disinfectant or spraying disinfectant onto the teats from below. Whichever method is used, the full benefits of teat disinfection will only be achieved if the disinfectant is used efficiently and effectively. The two main factors inhibiting the effectiveness of teat disinfection are ineffective formulation and poor application. Product formulation problems are usually due to either incorrect on-farm mixing of the concentrate or the infiltration of extraneous water into a previously prepared mix. Bad application, i. H. Not covering the entire teat of each cow at each milking is the most common mistake in teat disinfection. All the benefits of proper product selection, preparation and handling are lost if the teat disinfectant does not get on the teat’s skin. Proper disinfection means not only disinfecting the end of the teat, but disinfecting the entire teat cylinder – i.e. the teat cylinder. H. anywhere the liner has been touched. However, there is no advantage in disinfecting other parts of the udder surface. Teat dipping is the best sanitizing method, but spraying can be just as effective if done properly.

Fig. 1: Dipping the teats

Fig. 2: Teat spraying

Teat disinfection before milking – what’s the point?

Pre-milking teat disinfection involves the application of a fast-acting disinfectant just prior to milking to reduce the population of mastitis-causing bacteria on the teat skin, particularly around the outer teat opening. The main effect of pre-milking teat disinfection is therefore directed against those environmental microorganisms that cause mastitis. Pre-milking disinfection is not aimed at improving teat condition, so the addition of an emollient is not indicated.

Pre-diving reduces new environmental streptococcal and Escherichia coli infections by up to 50%. Pre-dipping teats should be considered when there are high numbers of cases of mastitis due to environmental bacteria (> 5 per 100 cows per month) or, particularly in cows calving in spring, during high-risk periods such as spring calving . B. in the first week after calving.

Pre-Dip should be applied to teats after they have been pre-milked and then dry wiped or washed and dried. Pre-Dip requires a minimum exposure time of 30 seconds and must be wiped off before using the milking cluster. If you do pre-dip make sure you are using a registered product and don’t just use your post-milking teat sanitiser. Most post-dips do not have a very fast rate of action, and using them as pre-dips can contaminate the milk.

Post-milking teat disinfection – crucial for mastitis control

Teat disinfection after milking should prevent mastitis and improve the condition of the teat skin. – To prevent mastitis, post-milking teat disinfection works by removing mastitis-causing bacteria from the teat skin and teat sores. The disinfectant should be applied immediately after removing the cluster while the teat canal is still open. The dip can then penetrate the teat opening and ensure that the bacteria that have just entered the canal are also killed.

The main source of mastitis bacteria on teat skin is milk from cows with infected quarters. Staph aureus or Strep agalactiae from the milk of an infected cow can remain on the liners for up to 9 milkings. This means that the infection can spread from one cow to the next 9 using the same cluster. Most bacteria are found on the teat skin, from where they can get into the udder at the next milking. If they are not removed, bacteria can multiply on the skin (particularly in teat lesion areas), increasing the risk of infection via the teat canal at the next milking. Teat disinfection after milking, dipping or spraying removes the bacteria that spread during milking, making it an extremely effective weapon against the spread of contagious mastitis.

Any infected skin lesion heals very slowly. Teat disinfection removes bacteria from the surface of the skin, promoting healing. Rough or cracked teat skin can also be a reservoir for mastitis-causing bacteria, so thorough disinfection of the entire teat is important.

Fig. 3: Automatic teat sprayer

immersion

Dips can be applied with hand-held cups or with a “power dipper” (a dip cup on a wand that a solution is applied to when a trigger is activated). Dipping uses less product than spraying (approximately 10ml per cow per milking versus 15ml) and can provide excellent teat coverage if done correctly. This application method requires a little more time than most spray applications when you factor in the preparation, refilling and actual application. Cups should be emptied before refilling and not ‘topped up’ when solution is running low and any solution remaining at the end of milking should be discarded. The cup should be large enough to accommodate the teat without causing excessive spillage of the disinfectant solution. Submerging each teat in a disinfectant reservoir will normally ensure that the entire teat cylinder (any area that comes in contact with the liner) is covered as long as the cup is deep enough and filled with the appropriate amount of an effective solution.

Fig. 4: Teat spray – checking that the teats are covered with paper towels.

spray

Spraying requires more disinfectant than dipping to achieve the same level of teat coverage as the udder is also sprayed. Sprays can be applied using a pistol handpiece with a spray nozzle or a fully automatic spray system. The teats should be sprayed from below using circular motions to cover all sides of all teats. The disadvantage of spraying is that the likelihood of achieving only partial teat coverage is much greater than with dipping. The lack of disinfectants on the other side of the teat could allow the establishment of a reservoir of mastitis-causing bacteria. Partially clogged spray nozzles can also lead to poor teat coverage.

Fully automated systems for dispensing teat disinfectant sprays are available. Infrared light rays activate spray nozzles and spray patterns are adapted to the udder of an average cow. Although they can save time and labor, most automated units do not provide teat coverage as consistently as manual spraying.

Teat disinfection products

More than 10 different active ingredients have been used in teat disinfectants worldwide in the last 30 years. The most commonly used active ingredients are: iodine, chlorhexidine, quaternary ammonium compounds, hydrolyzed fatty acids, hypochlorite and acidic anionic compounds.

Teat skin has relatively few sebaceous glands and continuous washing followed by exposure of wet teats to a cold and windy environment can remove protective fatty acids and lead to cracking. Therefore, plasticizers are added to the disinfectants. The addition of emollients such as glycerin, sorbitol, lanolin or propylene glycol to teat dips can improve teat skin health, thereby reducing the likely reservoir of mastitis bacteria in sore and cracked teats. Many teat dips contain emollients when sold. Addition of excessive amounts of a plasticizer (i.e. >20%) will most likely reduce killing activity and could lead to an increase in new mastitis.

Fig. 5: Dirty teat disinfection equipment spreads diseases

For effective teat disinfection always:

1. Read the label and follow directions for dilution rates, water quality requirements, mixing procedures, shelf life, compatibility information, and storage conditions.

2. Prepare fresh disinfectant for use (no more than 3 days old) and this should be kept in a container with a lid to prevent extraneous water from entering and diluting the already prepared solution.

3. Clean the device regularly (at least once a week).

Poorly prepared disinfectant applied with dirty and contaminated equipment can be a source of new mastitis infections.

summary

Adapted by Barry Steevens and Rex Ricketts

Institute of Animal Sciences

Originally written by Donald L. Ace

Dairy Science Extension, Pennsylvania State University

Healthy feeding practices and good housing facilities result in optimal growth and high milk production and contribute to the good health and welfare of dairy goats.

Feeding the dairy goat

Keep these goals in mind when feeding dairy goats:

Feed a young animal with enough energy for growth and feed an adult with enough energy to maintain a fairly constant body weight;

Provide enough protein, minerals and vitamins in a balanced feeding program to maintain a healthy animal; and

Supply provides enough supplemental nutrition during pregnancy and lactation for fetal development and milk production.

Optimum growth, good health and high milk yields are the result of sensible feeding practices. Dairy goats are not unique in their body requirements; They will respond to good dietary practices.

Digestible fiber is particularly important in the diet of dairy goats. Too much grain in relation to feed does not promote good ruminants and is a costly feeding practice.

When feeding, keep minerals and trace elements separate. Always feed them separately. Feed hay in a hay rack that doesn’t allow for waste. A recommended feeder type is a keyhole feeder. Don’t overlook feed testing as an economical way to feed your herd the right ration. Ask your local MU Extension specialist about this program.

Feeding children and yearlings

Children are born without natural protection against diseases. The mother’s first milk (colostrum) provides protection and gets the digestive system going. To be most effective, it must be fed before disease-causing organisms enter the mouth and digestive tract.

Wash the fresh deer’s udders and teats with warm water. Hand-milk half a cup of colostrum and feed it to the child within 15 minutes of birth. This is the best way to ensure the newborn gets some milk and gives it the most protection possible from organisms present on the fawn’s skin. Complete the first milking and save the colostrum for later feedings if you choose to hand feed. Otherwise, after the first hand-feeding, let the child breastfeed at will.

Clean feeding utensils immediately after each use. Use the same cleaning procedures you follow to wash milk-handling equipment or your dinnerware.

Table 1 is a practical milk feeding schedule. Heat the milk to 100 degrees Fahrenheit. Give extra water at two weeks of age.

Table 1

Milk feeding schedule.

Age Milk Yield Feeding Times Per Day 1 to 3 days 4 ounces (1/2 cup) 4 or 5 4 to 14 days 8 to 12 ounces 3 or 4 2 weeks to 3 months 16 ounces 2 or 3 3 to 4 months 16 ounces 2

Milk replacer may be fed from the fourth day; it should be at least 20 percent protein, 20 percent fat, and free of plant products. A lamb or high-quality veal milk substitute is recommended. Offer hay and grain aged one to two weeks. Wean yourself off milk when grain intake reaches 1/4 pound daily and children are willingly consuming hay.

If diarrhea is a problem, try the following mix:

beef broth

1 can

1 can fruit pectin (Sur-Jel)

1 package

1 packet of Lite Salt

1 teaspoon

1 teaspoon baking powder

2 teaspoons

2 teaspoons of water

to 2 liters

Make sure the solution is thoroughly mixed. Mix a fresh mix daily and feed instead of milk. Double the rate you fed. Feed as soon as you notice diarrhea. Use for 1-1/2 or 2 days and then return to the regular dairy diet.

After four to six months, the kids can receive a ration similar to that of the milking herd. Good quality hay and 1/2 pound of grain per day should provide an adequate growth rate. Bad hay can require 1 to 1-1/2 pounds of grain daily.

Feeding the milking herd

If milk production is important, feed maximum amounts of high quality hay balanced with a grain ration containing enough protein, minerals and vitamins to support production and animal health (Table 2). Grass or legume hay is equally acceptable. The higher the proportion of legumes, the lower the protein requirement in the grain mixture.

Table 2

Hay and grain rations for the milking herd.

Forage feeding Protein content in grain Mineral mix to be used Legumes or mixed, mostly legumes 14 to 16 percent High phosphorous mixes Grass or mixed, mostly grass 16 to 18 percent 2:1 Ca:P mixes

To determine the amount of grain to feed, consider the level of milk production, the amount and quality of feed consumed, appetite, and the state of meat formation. Thin, powerful females should have access to as much hay as possible and grain up to the limit of their appetites. Mid-lactation females who are in good meat should have all the hay they eat plus 1 pound of grain for every 3 pounds of milk produced. Late lactation may need no more than 1 lb of grain for every 5 lbs of milk.

Feed a grain ration formulated for a milk-producing ruminant (dairy cows). Rolled or shredded grain is tastier than ground grain. Urea is not recommended due to palatability issues. Some commercial cow feeds may contain by-product ingredients that are unpalatable to goats. Wet molasses is tastier than dry molasses. Beer or citrus pomace is a valuable source of fiber, especially when the available hay is of poor quality. Table 3 lists some tasty and nutritious rations that your local miller could mix up.

table 3

Try grain rations.

Ingredient Protein content in finished mix (lbs) 14 percent 16 percent 18 percent 20 percent Snapped or rolled corn 38 33 27 22 Oatmeal 20 20 20 20 Soybean meal (44 percent) 19 24 30 35 Beet or citrus pulp 10 10 10 10 Molasses 10 10 10 10 trace mineral salt 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 dicalcium phosphate 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 magnesium oxide 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2

Add a vitamin premix that provides 1,000 units of vitamin A, 500 units of vitamin D, and 3 units of vitamin E per pound of grain.

Weeds and grass are not a necessary part of a goat’s diet. A good pasture is a valuable source of summer forage. Vegetable tips and shreds can be used as an “extra”; not rely on them as their sole source of food.

Water is critical to good health and high milk production. A clean water source should be available at all times. When the water is heated in cold weather, goats consume more.

Dry feeding will do

If the deer is not thin, reduce the amount of grain to 1/2 to 1 pound per day. Feed her whatever food she eats. Hay fed during the dry season may be of lower quality, but then the grain ration should contain additional protein. Leaves, leaves and weeds are often useful to regenerate the stomach. If the dry ration differs from the milking ration, switch to the milking forage and grain ration two weeks before refreshing the deer.

Feed the buck

For convenience, you can feed the buck the same grain that was fed to the milking herd. Most bucks don’t need more than a pound of grain per day plus feed. Don’t let her get fat. Adjust the grit up or down accordingly. Always feed full food.

husbandry of dairy goats

Keeping dairy goats does not have to be expensive, but it does have to do justice to the health and comfort of the animals. There are five requirements for good goat husbandry:

The building should be adequately ventilated but not draughty;

Walls and ceiling should be free of condensation;

The littered area should be relatively dry and clean;

The hay, grain and water bins must be well constructed and arranged so that feed is not wasted or contaminated; and

The facilities should provide easy access to the animals and require a minimum of labor.

temperature

The comfort zone for dairy goats is between 55 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Non-sweating animals are much less sensitive to falling temperatures than to rising temperatures. Milk production, feed consumption and welfare are not affected by temperatures between 0 and 55 degrees Fahrenheit, but temperatures above 25 degrees Fahrenheit reduce feed intake and milk yield significantly. So it’s not about keeping the goats warm in the winter, it’s about keeping them cool in the summer.

ventilation

Air movement, either by mechanical or natural means, to remove heat, moisture and odors is a necessary part of a home design. Most pneumonia problems in dairy goats can be traced back to inadequate ventilation. Wet walls and ceilings are the result of poor ventilation, poor insulation, or a combination of both.

The rate of air movement is affected by the amount of animal heat generated and the temperature you wish to maintain in the building. Additional heating and insulation may be needed to keep barn air fresh and prevent water lines from freezing in winter. An air intake system must also be provided for good air distribution. Ventilation involves more than installing a fan to move some air.

Proper ventilation in the summer may require moving 150 to 200 cubic feet of air per minute per animal. Winter weather can reduce the amount of air to be exhausted to as much as 20 cubic feet per goat. Contact your local MU Extension specialist for assistance in planning the correct ventilation system. With proper ventilation you protect the animals, the building and the quality of the milk produced.

light

Windows are essential in a closed barn. They allow sunlight for warmth and drying and provide animals with a source of vitamin D. Well-lit barns are usually kept cleaner. In summer, open windows are important for air movement.

Accommodation for young cattle and the milking herd

There are two housing systems commonly used for dairy goats:

Playpen where the animals run freely in an enclosure or stall

Stable barns in which each animal is locked in a small box stall or tie stall

Playpens are an ancient system with many desirable features. With plenty of bedding, the manure pack for a herd of goats can be kept fairly clean and dry. The heat generated in the pack ensures a warm bed. There is plenty of exercise and an opportunity for the goats to exercise.

However, this type of accommodation has some problems. A manure pack that has built up gives off a lot of moisture to the stable air, even though it is superficially dry. In addition, haystacks should be placed away from the littered area to reduce parasite infestation. Irrigation equipment should be placed in an area where spilled water will not disturb the embedded pack.

Many goat farmers use a stall or barn that faces south or south-east, eliminating the need for mechanical ventilation. These are cold stalls that do not require additional heat or insulation and use normal air movement for ventilation. Goats move freely in and out of the pen area and into the paddock or feeding area. Bunkers for hay, water, minerals and grain are located on concrete slabs at some distance from the built-up manure pack.

Accommodation for the kids and other young stock can be included in the milking herd plan. However, young goats must be kept separate from the milking herd. Often the children are kept in 4 foot square boxes with at least one side slatted to allow air movement. Don’t build a plywood box with all four walls solid; Air movement does not reach the children. Normally a closed front contains enough openings to allow air evacuation. Offer a heat lamp to newborns and sick children. Larger children can be kept in a corner of the stable area in an enclosure made of movable hurdles.

The housing of the bucks must be separate from the milking herd and downwind. It doesn’t have to be elaborate and is often no more than a 5 or 6 foot shed with one side open to the south to give the bucks free access to an exercise area.

milking area

The milking area is part of the barn plan but should be separated from the barn area. It should have a concrete floor to facilitate cleaning and the milking platform should be 15 to 18 inches higher than the floor to facilitate milking. The platform should allow each animal to be tied 18 inches wide and 3 1/2 feet long. The crib should be 6 inches deep and 1 foot wide. If several goats are to be tied up and milked at the same time, a lever for opening and closing the stanchion head locks is helpful.

Some goat owners who keep their milking herds in barns milk their animals at a milking parlor located in a corner of the barn. However, dusty air and flies in the barn can mean that you need to locate the milking parlor in a separate, screened facility to ensure clean milk. A 5 by 8 foot room with a concrete floor and drain is sufficient to milk a small herd, but make sure there is plenty of light, either from natural sources or incandescent bulbs.

If the milk is sold to the public or to a processor, the farm is subject to state control, as is also required for the production of grade A cow’s milk. Check with your local health authorities and state inspector before beginning construction.

If the milk is to be used by the family, the degree of hygiene and cleanliness, and the size and type of building constructed, may be based on the common sense, pride, conscience, and finances of the owner.

Equip the milk house with a double sink for washing utensils, a water heater, refrigeration, a small table or work surface, and a rack for drying and storing utensils. At least 50 percent of the dairy house should be an open floor area with adequate space for equipment.

Regardless of the size of the herd, refrigeration must be available to cool the milk quickly. A household refrigerator can be used, but cold water cools milk more efficiently than cold air. The fridge or cooler should be large enough to hold a pot of water. The pan should contain enough water to match the amount of milk in the milk pail. If the herd is large enough and the milk production is 5, 10 or more gallons per day, it will be necessary to purchase a submersible water cooler or bulk tank for cooling purposes.

Cooling is crucial for the taste and quality of the milk. All milk contains bacteria, some of which comes from the air and utensils. If the milk stays warm for a short time, the bacteria start to multiply and the milk quality deteriorates. Therefore, chill the milk to below 40 degrees Fahrenheit immediately after milking and keep it at that temperature until it is processed and/or consumed.

Plans for the construction of a milking parlor and milking parlor as well as the construction of the milking house area are available from your local MU Extension Dairy Specialist.

fencing

Fences serve two purposes that make them an important part of a home plan – they keep goats in and dogs out. They also keep feeding goats away from your trees and shrubs and your neighbor’s flower bed.

Set 7-foot posts, either wood or steel, on 12-foot centers. Then either use a 4 foot high braided wire fence topped with an electric wire 12 inches above the braided wire or use an all electric fence. If using an all-electric fence, place the first wire 12 inches off the ground, then four more wires at 6-inch intervals for a total height of 36 inches. Use insulators on the post to secure the wires. The electric fence works well when weeds, grass and brush are not allowed to touch and short out the wires or when the ground is not bone dry during periods of drought. Your local farm shop can recommend the right equipment for you.

In summary, keep the plans as simple and economical as possible. Consider the health of your animals as well as the amenities a housing facility might offer. Contact your local MU Extension Specialist for more housing options for your dairy goat farm.

January 20, 2017

When milking a dairy cow with a clean and infection-free udder, the milk is sterile until it is discharged. In order to keep the milk in a healthy condition, it is imperative to take the right measures to avoid bacterial contamination.

Contaminated milk can become a breeding ground for bacteria, yeast and mold. If soiled, the milk quality quickly deteriorates. As her condition decreases, the chance of using the milk for either liquid consumption or processing into dairy products decreases.

When running a dairy operation, the following tips will help keep the milk poured into the tank clean and free of contaminants.

Avoid bacterial contamination in milk – focus on cleanliness

Tip #1. Udder and teats

In order to keep udders free of infection, measures to combat mastitis are necessary. While it is difficult to have a herd that is 100% mastitis free, there are steps you can take to help reduce the number of cows affected.

Pre-milking procedures should include the following steps from routine udder preparation procedures:

Use a clean paper towel or washcloth for each cow: Wash the udders thoroughly with clean water with an added disinfectant such as sodium hypochlorite. If the water gets dirty, empty the container and refill it with new Contaminated water can get into teat cups. Used paper towels should be thrown away. If a washcloth is used, it should be disinfected and dried before being used again in the next milking round

When cows are kept on multi-animal plots or pastures, their environment can become very dirty, increasing the likelihood that the surface of the udder is easily contaminated with bacteria

If cows are visibly soiled, the dirt on the udder and teats must be removed

If the dirt on the udder is muddy or heavily caked, gently spraying the udder with water can help loosen and remove it

Even muddy or encrusted dirt can be removed with careful and gentle brushing

Once the visible debris is removed, routine pre-milking udder preparation procedures should be followed

If the milking station floor becomes excessively dirty or muddy, clean the area of ​​dirt before bringing in and milking a new cow.

Tip #2. Disinfection before milking

To reduce the risk of contamination transfer between teat ends and milking machines, a pre-dip teat disinfectant, applied after the udder has been washed and dried but before the teat cups are fitted, can help to eliminate the risk of contamination of the milk caused by environmental bacteria such as:

Streptococcus uberis

Escherichia coli

Klebsiella pneumoniae

The recommended steps for using the pre-dip sanitizer include:

Clean teats

forest milk

Applying the pre-dip sanitizer or spray

Allow for exposure time depending on the product

Thoroughly dry teat to remove excess germicidal product, microorganisms and organic material

Attach teat cup

Tip #3. Post-milking teat dip

One of the most effective management tools to prevent mastitis is the use of an antiseptic after milking. The germicidal solutions used in teat dips and sprays have been found to significantly reduce the rate of new bacteria-causing intramammary infections to clean, disinfect and seal the teat opening, which helps fight the onset of infections that occur on the most commonly caused by :

Staphylococcus aureus

Streptococcus agalactiae

Mycoplasma bovis

Corynebacterium bovis

It is noted that while spraying is quicker, teat dipping is a more thorough means of covering the teat surface. Some believe the dip cup increases the possibility of passing bacteria from cow to cow. However, the germicidal agents help prevent the dip from becoming contaminated with bacteria. The most important point is to cover the entire teat surface.

To avoid contamination that can affect the quality of the milk, cleanliness is the be-all and end-all!

For more information on maintaining dairy herd health, contact your Covetrus representative at 855.724.3461.

http://www.nmconline.org/articles/teatdip.htm

The eight teeth in your goat’s lower front jaw can help you determine its age. They are not an exact or perfect guide as various factors such as diet affect how teeth grow. Also, every goat is an individual, just like you and your friends. Remember that not all of your baby teeth fell out at the same time as the other kids in your class. A goat’s teeth may grow and fall out at a slightly different age than any other goat’s teeth. There are no upper front teeth in the goat’s mouth, instead your billy goat has a hard, toothless “tooth pad”. Your goat has teeth at the top and bottom of the jaw, further back in the mouth. These molars help him chew the cud. We do not use these to determine his age.