How Long Can Duck Eggs Go Without Heat? Trust The Answer

Much of the information available on hatching and hatching chicken eggs can be applied to ducks as long as the important differences between these two species are taken into account. Because duck eggs are larger than chicken eggs, drip trays must be designed to accommodate their larger size. Eggs from common ducks like pekins take 28 days to hatch.

Muscovy duck eggs hatch about 35 days after laying. When larger numbers of duck eggs are to be hatched, large commercial incubators (setters) and hatchers are usually used. Peking duck eggs are kept in a setter for 25 days and then taken to a hatcher on day 25, where they remain until hatching on day 28. Eggs are rotated automatically in the setter (usually every hour). It is not necessary to turn eggs in the incubator. The basic procedures and conditions for hatching duck eggs are as follows.

If the incubator is not already in operation, start the incubator and wait a day or two for the temperature and humidity to stabilize before laying the eggs. Set the temperature to 37.5°C (99.5°F) and the relative humidity to 55% (84.5°F on a wet-bulb thermometer). Adjust ventilation as recommended by the incubator manufacturer. Eggs must be turned at least 4 times a day, either automatically or by hand. Most automatic rotators are set to change the position of the eggs every hour. Select the eggs to be set by carefully examining and candling them as they are placed in the trays. Do not use eggs that are cracked, double-yolked, misshapen, too big, too small, or dirty. For best results, lay the eggs within 1-3 days of laying. There is an average loss of about 3% hatchability in eggs stored 7 days before laying, and about 10% loss in eggs stored 14 days. Always lay eggs small end down, except for small incubators without trays. If eggs have been stored in a cooler, remove them from the cooler the evening before laying and allow them to warm to room temperature. On the day of laying, place the eggs in the incubator, close the doors and allow the incubator to warm up. Check frequently that the incubator is working properly on the first day, and check at least 4 times a day thereafter. About seven days after hatching, candle the eggs and remove any eggs that are sterile (clear) or dead germs (cloudy). 25 days after setting (Pekin eggs), the eggs are transferred to incubator trays and, if eggs are incubated in a separate machine, transferred to the incubator. Remove candles and eggs with dead embryos. At the time of transfer, the hatcher temperature should be set at 37.2°C (99°F) and humidity at 65% (88°F WB). As hatching progresses and eggs begin to rupture, increase humidity to 80% (93°F wet bulb) and increase air vents by about 50%. As hatching nears completion, gradually lower the temperature and humidity so that the temperature at the end of hatching is 36.1°C (97°F) and humidity is 70% (90°F WB). The vents should be open to their maximum setting by the end of the hatch. Remove ducklings from the brooder when 90-95% of them are dry.

Correct water loss during incubation

As the chick develops in the egg, water is lost from the egg and the air cell increases. If the chick is developing normally, after 25 days of incubation the air cell should take up about a third of the space inside the egg (common ducks). Weight loss can also serve as a guide. Ordinary duck eggs should lose about 14% of their weight at the time of laying by 25 days.

Natural incubation

Duck eggs can be hatched naturally by being placed under a brooding duck or even a brooding chicken. Muscovy ducks are very good setters that can hatch 12-15 duck eggs. The nest box should be in a clean, dry shelter that is bedding with appropriate bedding. Food and water should be available for the brood duck and chicks when they hatch.

egg storage

If eggs are stored for a while before being cocooned, they should be stored at a temperature and humidity that minimizes egg deterioration. For a small number of eggs, storage in a basement may be sufficient. If possible, store eggs at around 13°C (55°F) and 75% relative humidity. Store the eggs with the narrow end down.

Planning to hatch chicks this winter? Consider These Tips With the leaves on the ground and cold weather on the way, breeding season is over for most, but did you know you can still hatch chicks in winter?

Words from Pascale Deffieux Pearce, Executive Vice President of Brinsea Inc

Of course, due to the increased risks associated with hatching in less than ideal temperatures, there are additional precautions to consider. However, with the right training, humans can hatch chickens year-round.

While incubating in winter is still the same process as in spring, there are a few things to consider before attempting it.

As temperature and lighting levels drop, chickens tend to lay less frequently and sometimes stop altogether. They lose their breeding instinct as the chicks’ chances of survival in the wild would be greatly reduced. Artificial incubation is an obvious benefit, although egg availability and quality may be reduced.

Eggs that have been exposed to freezing conditions (in the barn or in transit) have suffered damage to their internal structures and are very unlikely to hatch.

Incubation during this time of year must be done indoors with a stable temperature due to temperatures.

Before eggs are placed in the incubators, they must reach room temperature, between 70°F and 78°F, to avoid thermal shock and cracking. To be on the safe side, it is best to leave them overnight.

Central heating/ovens can dry the ambient air and it may be necessary to add water to the incubator more frequently to maintain proper humidity levels. Keep an eye on the water level and make sure it doesn’t leak.

The incubator should not be placed near a heat source, otherwise the temperature cannot be properly controlled. A room with a stable temperature between 20 and 30 °C is ideal for success.

To prevent chicks from becoming chilled, especially when they are very young, the brooder must be placed in the coop or in a temperature-controlled location.

These instructions are to be followed when regularly monitoring an incubator and caring for the eggs throughout the incubation process. This includes temperature and humidity, turning the eggs and keeping to the 21-day incubation period. Incubating can be fun and a great activity to do during the holidays, but it’s important to follow the necessary steps and take precautions.

Visit the Brisnea website for more information on incubators and hatching chickens

Get $1 for every one we use.

Without cracking it, you can do a simple test by placing the egg in a bowl of water:

If it sinks, it’s fresh. (Top right)

If it stands upright, it’s a few days old. (Bottom right)

If it swims, it’s lazy.

Easy!

You should keep the eggs in a cool place, broad side up and point down. It is not necessary to keep them in the fridge except in very hot weather. Stored this way, they should keep for up to two weeks. If in doubt, simply perform the test described above.

New poultry producers are usually interested in artificially incubating their own chicks. The success of such a project depends on proper care and incubation of the hatching eggs to produce healthy, strong chicks. The following topics covered in this publication will help improve the manufacturer’s success.

Selection of hatching eggs

Care and storage of eggs

incubators

incubation conditions

hygiene

Troubleshooting errors

Selection of hatching eggs

Most producers lay as many eggs as their breeders produce. If space in the incubator is the limiting factor, it is more profitable to select the higher quality eggs to incubate.

Some tips to keep in mind when choosing hatching eggs are:

Select eggs from breeders that are (1) well developed, mature, and healthy; (2) compatible with their mates and produce a high percentage of fertile eggs; (3) not be disturbed much during mating season; (4) fed a complete breeder’s diet; and (5) not directly related [brother, sister, mother, father, etc.].

Avoid overly large or small eggs. Large eggs hatch poorly and small eggs produce small chicks.

Avoid eggs with cracked or thin shells. These eggs have difficulty retaining the moisture needed for proper chick development. Penetration of pathogens into cracked eggs is increasing.

Do not incubate eggs that are overly deformed.

Only keep clean hatching eggs. Do not wash dirty eggs or wipe eggs clean with a damp cloth. This removes the egg’s protective coating and exposes it to invading pathogens. The washing and rubbing action also serves to force pathogens through the pores of the shell.

Care and storage of eggs

Often a producer will carefully attend to the incubation process but neglect to care for the eggs before they are placed in the incubator. Even before incubation begins, the embryo is developing and needs proper care. Hatching eggs suffer from reduced hatchability if the eggs are not cared for properly. Below are tips for maintaining hatching egg quality.

Collect eggs at least three times a day. If daily high temperatures exceed 85 degrees F, increase egg collection to five times daily. Collect two to three times in the morning and once or twice in the afternoon.

Slightly soiled eggs can be used for incubation without causing incubation problems, but dirty eggs should not be saved. Don’t wash dirty eggs.

Store eggs in a cool, damp storage area. Ideal storage conditions include a temperature of 55 degrees Fahrenheit and 75% relative humidity. Store the eggs with the small end down.

Change egg position regularly if not incubating within 4-6 days. Rotate the eggs into a new position once a day until you place them in the incubator.

Hatchability lasts quite well for up to seven days, but then decreases rapidly. Therefore, keep eggs no longer than 7 days before incubating. After 3 weeks of storage, the hatchability drops to almost zero. Plan ahead and have a regular hatching schedule to avoid storage problems and reduced hatch rates.

Allow cool eggs to slowly warm to room temperature before placing in the incubator. Abrupt warming from 55 degrees to 100 degrees causes moisture condensation on the eggshell, leading to disease and less hatching.

incubators

The size and type of incubator selected depends on the needs and future plans of each producer. Many different models are available. Separate incubator and hatcher units are recommended for continuous settings. If all eggs in the unit are at the same incubation stage, a single unit can be used.

Place the incubator and hatcher units indoors to protect them from major weather changes. It is important that the room has a good ventilation system to bring in plenty of fresh air. Keeping the equipment indoors makes it easier to maintain a consistent temperature and humidity level.

There are basically two types of incubators, convection and still air incubators. Convection incubators have fans that provide internal air circulation. The capacity of these units can be very large. Still air incubators are usually small and do not have fans for air circulation. Air exchange is achieved by the rise and exit of warm stale air and the entry of cool fresh air near the bottom of the incubator. Recommended temperatures vary between the two incubators, so follow the manufacturer’s recommendations included with the units.

incubation conditions

Poor results are most commonly caused by improper temperature and/or humidity control. Improper control means that the temperature or humidity is too high or too low for a long enough period of time to interfere with the normal growth and development of the embryo. Poor results also occur from improper ventilation, turning, and sanitation of the machines or eggs. Get the best hatch by maintaining the temperature at 100 degrees F. throughout the incubation period if using a convection incubator. Small fluctuations (less than ½ degree) above or below 100 degrees will be tolerated, but don’t allow temperatures to vary more than 1 degree total. Longer periods of high or low temperatures affect hatching success. High temperatures are particularly dangerous. A circulating air incubator that is too warm tends to hatch early. One that runs consistently cooler tends to produce late hatches. In both cases the total number of hatched chicks is reduced.

Maintain a still air incubator at 102 degrees F. to even out temperature stratification within the incubator. Determine the correct temperature by raising the bulb of the thermometer to the same height as the top of the eggs when the eggs are horizontal. With the eggs positioned in a vertical position, raise the thermometer bulb to a point about ¼ to ½ inch below the top of the egg. The temperature is taken at the level where the embryos are developing (at the tip of the egg). Be careful not to let the thermometer bulb touch the eggs or the incubator. Incorrect measured values ​​are obtained.

Check the thermometer! is it accurate A one degree error for 21 days can seriously impair embryonic growth. Check the accuracy of the incubator thermometer by holding the bulb next to the bulb of a clinical (the kind used to take body temperature) or good laboratory thermometer. Hold both under lukewarm tap water and compare the readings. Compensate for fluctuations in the incubation thermometer by increasing or decreasing the amount of fluctuation. A thermometer with a split or gapped column of mercury will not give an accurate reading, discard it.

Humidity is carefully controlled to avoid unnecessary loss of moisture in the egg. Relative humidity in the incubator between planting and three days before hatching should remain at 58–60%, or 84–86 degrees F, wet bulb. Upon hatching, the humidity is increased to 65% RH or more.

An excellent method of determining the correct humidity level is by candling the eggs at various stages of incubation. The normal size of the air cell after 7, 14 and 18 days of incubation for a chicken egg is shown. As a result of the fluoroscopic inspection, necessary humidity adjustments can be made. The egg weight must decrease by 12% during incubation if good hatches are expected.

Air cell size on days 7, 14 and 18 of incubation

There is often confusion about how the moisture measurement is expressed. Most people in the incubator industry refer to humidity levels in degrees F (wet bulb) rather than percent relative humidity. The two terms are interchangeable, and the actual humidity depends on the temperature (H) as measured by a dry-bulb thermometer. The two humidity measurements can be converted using the following table:

1 Dry bulb temperatures are shown horizontally for common incubation values. Dry bulb temperatures are shown horizontally for common incubation values.

In well-ventilated nursing air incubators, the humidity is rarely too high. The area of ​​the water pan should be at least half of the floor area. Increased aeration during the last few days of incubation and hatching may necessitate the addition of another pan of water or a damp sponge. Humidity is maintained by increasing the exposed water surface.

Aeration is very important during the incubation process. As the embryo develops, oxygen enters the egg through the shell and carbon dioxide escapes in the same way. When the chicks hatch, they need an increased supply of fresh oxygen. As the embryos grow, the vents are gradually opened to meet the embryo’s increased need for oxygen. Care must be taken to maintain humidity throughout the breeding season. Unobstructed ventilation openings both above and below the eggs are essential for proper air exchange.

What to do if the power goes out during incubation? An appropriate response depends on several factors, some of which include the temperature of the room the incubator is in, the number of eggs in the machine, and whether the eggs are in the early or late incubation phase.

The two most important considerations in this situation are (1) to keep the eggs from overheating and (2) to ensure they are adequately oxygenated. The longer the eggs incubate and the greater the number of eggs in the incubator, the more likely you are to experience overheating and suffocation of the embryos.

If the room where the incubator is located is hot and stuffy, you will have to respond to power outages faster than if the room is kept at 75 degrees and well ventilated. The most effective protection against overheating and suffocation is opening the door of the incubator or incubator. Whether the door opens slightly or fully and how long it stays open depends on the factors previously mentioned.

Eggs need to be turned at least 4-6 times a day during the incubation period. Do not turn the eggs in the last three days before hatching. The embryos move into hatching position and do not need to be rotated. Keep the incubator closed during hatching to maintain proper temperature and humidity. The vents should be almost fully open during the last stages of hatching.

The eggs are initially placed in the incubator with the large end up or horizontally with the large end slightly raised. This allows the embryo to remain oriented in a suitable position for hatching. Never lay eggs small end up.

In a still air incubator where the eggs are turned by hand, it may be helpful to use a pencil to put an “X” on one side of each egg and an “O” on the other side. This serves as an aid in determining whether all the eggs have been turned. When turning, make sure your hands are free of greasy or dusty substances. Eggs contaminated with oil suffer from reduced hatchability. Take extra precautions when turning eggs in the first week of incubation. The developing embryos have delicate blood vessels that rupture easily when severely jarred or shaken, killing the embryo.

The table below lists the incubation requirements for different types of poultry.

1 Measured at degrees F. in a forced air incubator. For still air incubators, add 2-3 degrees F.

2 Measured in degrees F. using a wet-bulb thermometer. Use the table to convert to relative humidity. Measured at degrees F. in a forced air incubator. For still air incubators, add 2-3 degrees F. Measured as degrees F. with a wet-bulb thermometer. Use the table to convert to relative humidity.

hygiene

In large commercial incubators, eggs of different ages are frequently planted and each assembly is transferred to a separate unit prior to hatching. Separate brood units allow for proper sanitation and disease control practices to be practiced between batches of chicks. The chicks can be hatched without disturbing the other hatching eggs. Thoroughly clean and disinfect the incubator and incubator before each use. Remove all eggshells, down, dust and excess material with a broom or vacuum. Wash the device with a warm cleaning solution and rinse with a disinfectant solution. Once dry, turn the units on and bring them to the correct temperature and humidity before filling them with eggs.

Thorough cleaning results in a 95-99% improvement in disease control. When done correctly, little or no disinfectant is needed. If a disinfectant is used, quaternary ammonia is the most commonly used disinfectant for equipment such as incubators and incubators. “Quats” are relatively non-irritating, non-corrosive, of low toxicity and quite effective in the presence of organic material. Since the incubator and its components should be clean and free of organic matter before applying the disinfectant, quats are a good choice.

Fumigation is another disease control tool and is a good thing when either the cleaning is poor, the eggs are dirty, or the machines are full of eggs and are difficult to drain and clean properly. The fumigation process can be dangerous for the manufacturer if not carefully managed. Contact the Mississippi State University Poultry Extension Department or your local county agent’s office for more information on proper fumigation of incubators and hatching eggs.

Troubleshooting errors

The inexperienced poultry producer will usually encounter problems when incubating the first batches of eggs. Fortunately, the root cause of most errors can be diagnosed and fixed. A separate diagnostic table has been created to help troubleshoot incubation errors. See this table at .

For more information on poultry production, contact the Poultry Extension Department, Box 9665, Mississippi State, MS 39762 – (662) 325-2853.

Good luck with your egg hatching project.

Source: – May 2004

Don’t discard the project if a power outage occurs. Most of the time the hatch can be saved. The key is to keep the eggs as warm as possible until the power returns.

Placing a large cardboard box over the top of the incubator to provide extra insulation can help keep the incubator warm. Many teachers place a box over their incubators at night and on weekends to isolate the incubators as protection from possible power outages. In extreme cold, it may help to cover the box with blankets. To warm the eggs, put candles in jars, light them and place the jars under the box covering the incubator. Be careful not to place any combustible material closer than a foot from the top of the candles to avoid burning. The warmth of the candles can keep the eggs slightly above 90°F until the power returns.

Embryos have survived in temperatures as high as 70°F for short periods. Some embryos can survive for up to 18 hours in temperatures below 30°C, so don’t give up. You should continue to incubate the eggs after the failure; then candle them 4 to 6 days later to see if there has been further development or signs of life. If after 6 days you don’t see any life or development in any of the eggs, end the project. Most often, a power outage delays hatching by a few days, reducing hatchability to 40-50 percent.

Ducks are fairly hardy, but they’ll appreciate a little grooming when the weather turns chilly.

Ducks are extremely cold-resistant and actually need very little to survive the cold well.

But there are several things you can do to help your ducks be happier and healthier this winter.

Tip Tips for keeping ducks in winter

Unlike chickens, which are generally comfortable in temperatures of 45 degrees and above, ducks are fine down to temperatures around 20 degrees Fahrenheit.

However, as a result, they can suffer frostbite on their feet, which can lead to amputation or loss of limbs.

However, there are a few things you can do for your ducks to help prevent frostbite and keep them comfortable in the freezing cold.

For nocturnal winter duck care

Before bed, high-fat, high-calorie treats like crushed corn or peanuts will help put on a bit more weight for the winter and keep the ducks warm overnight by digesting it (peanuts are a lot more nutritious than corn).

Make sure your duck house is well ventilated. Ducks give off a lot of moisture when they breathe, and the moisture can cause frostbite. The ventilation openings should be high and not at floor level.

Put a thick layer of straw on the floor of your duck house and use straw bales for “insulation” along the inside walls if you live in the far north.

Plan at least two square feet in the house per duck. The smaller the house, the better the ducks can generate sufficient body heat to keep the air above freezing.

Ducks don’t need water in their house overnight, they just play in it and it will end up spilling and freezing on the floor resulting in wet litter and a colder duck house. I only feed and water outside – all year round.

Ducks do not need heat or light in their home. It’s a fire hazard and ducks generally do fairly well through the winter without extra light.

For caring for winter ducks during the day

Put straw in the run/pen to allow the ducks to get up off the snow and icy ground. If you notice them hopping from one foot to the other, or holding up one foot and standing on only one foot, chances are their feet are cold.

Wooden boards, pallets, benches or even low stumps in their enclosure will also help ducks get off the snowy, frozen ground.

Ducks don’t seem to mind the cold that much, but they don’t like wind. Make a windbreak in a corner of the enclosure using a tarp (as pictured above) or sheets of plywood and put some straw on the ground for them – or build a windbreak for the ducks to allow them to escape the elements like this one pictured below .

An A-frame shelter like this is also perfect for the summer, allowing the ducks to get out of the sun. Note: This shelter is NOT predator proof and only suitable as a day shelter – not to be used as a night duck house.

Ducks don’t necessarily need to swim in a pool or pond during the winter, but on nice sunny days, a few times a week they enjoy a deep tub of water to dip their beaks and heads in, and maybe even jump in for a quick dip, in addition to their normal water bowls. I choose a warm day and use a deep wide black rubber tub. I think this is going to stay unfrozen for a while, especially since they’re going to be playing in it.

They need unfrozen water during the day that is available to drink at all times. On freezing days I use a heated dog water bowl, which works quite well.

Since weeds and grass are scarce in the winter, your ducks will happily enjoy cabbage, chard, kale, or other cold leafy greens to munch on. Even a head of cabbage keeps them busy for a long time and avoids boredom!

A duck’s body temperature is a comfortable 104 degrees, while its feet stay much cooler, very close to ambient air temperature, to almost freezing when it gets extremely cold, due to a unique vascular system. This helps the duck retain heat in its body, reduce heat loss through its feet, and prevent its feet from frostbite. However, prolonged contact with frozen ground or ice is not good for ducks.

Ours seem to really enjoy sitting in the snow, but you may notice them pulling their feet up off the ground and tucking them into their feathers and against their body for warmth.

Their waterproof feathers and thick layer of body fat keep them comfortably warm.

Like any pet, your ducks will appreciate a little extra care in the winter and be a lot happier and healthier if you take these few steps to ensure they stay warm on those cold, blustery days.

Pin that!

The key to successful hatching is to provide an even heat throughout the egg. In an emergency, it may be necessary to give heat to an egg without an incubator. There are five methods to take orphaned eggs in the 21 days from fertilization to hatching. Caring for an orphaned egg can be tedious and time-consuming, but the beautiful chick that arrives is worth all the hard work.

When the electricity goes out, the hot water often does not go out. Hot water bottles filled with hot water and wrapped in a towel or even Ziploc bags will keep the chicks warm and can be swapped out if needed.

A group of chicks (3-4 or more depending on size) will usually generate enough body heat to keep themselves warm if placed in a small, insulated container. I keep several sizes of “picnic coolers” on hand for this purpose and place a double cloth over the top edge so the lid doesn’t close tightly.

Chicks can be kept warm enough by their body heat to stay alive if you can tuck them safely close to your skin.

eggs:

If there are eggs in the incubator when the power goes out, DO NOT TOUCH IT. Cover the incubator with towels or a blanket to retain heat and leave it alone. It takes 2 – 5 hours for it to lose enough heat to damage the eggs (depending on the ambient temperature) if you don’t lift the lid. If the power isn’t back on by then, there are a few other things you can try. A good thermometer is essential – eggs that are too hot are just as bad as eggs that are too cold. The right temperature is 99-100 degrees, and even 97-98 degrees will keep them alive for a while. Hopefully there’s a thermometer in the incubator so you can monitor the temperature without lifting the lid so you know when it’s too low.

If your stove/oven is gas powered and still in use, you can heat water for chicks and place the eggs in hot water bottles or bags as described above. Monitor the temperature closely. You can also heat bricks in the oven and use them wrapped in cloth to keep eggs warm. Two pans of sand, alternating between 100 degrees. Oven and the eggs, can also serve. Keep wet washcloths near (but not touching) the eggs to maintain moisture.

When you need to travel or leave home, eggs embedded in 100 degrees. Sand (or those rice/corn packs) poured into a preheated picnic cooler and then covered with a couple of towels will stay warm for several hours with the lid closed. In this case the eggs don’t really need to “breathe” so you can have the lid sealed. (Eggs do exchange oxygen with their surroundings, but not fast enough to worry about the amount of time they stay warm without being disturbed.)

If none of your appliances are working and you run out of hot water, any means of heating sand/bricks/stones/bags of uncooked rice etc. are worth trying – the sun, candles or an open flame etc. I would be careful with the warming devices for feet, hands etc – I think they get too hot to use on eggs at first, but they can be used on chicks if wrapped in a towel – chicks will move away if they are too getting hot ; Just make sure the chicks have room for it if needed.

Also, if you have chicks AND eggs, don’t forget that chick body temperatures are just as good for incubating eggs as adults, and most eggs outlive older siblings in the nest box. Lay the eggs under the chicks. Oddly enough, eggs retain heat quite well and also help keep the chicks warm. (If you have unfertilized eggs laying around, as I usually do, or even hen eggs from the supermarket, these can be warmed and placed with the chicks to help them maintain a stable temperature.) Of course, there is some risk that a egg is damaged. but no eggs will survive if refrigerated.

Above all, don’t give up. Our electricity was out for a full week last year after a thunderstorm destroyed a tree and knocked down our power line, and all our chicks and about 70% of the eggs survived. Most of the eggs we lost were eggs that were among birds in nest boxes, so if I had to go through it again I would pull out the eggs, replace them with sterile “spares” and try to get them going myself hold until the power went out and the birds went back to their normal routine.

As always, just my experience.

—

Heike Ewing, Bear’s Den Aviary / “BearsDen” on IRC

Please note: The articles or images on this site are the sole property of the authors or photographers. If you have any copyright or licensing questions, please contact them directly. Many Thanks.

Warnings If your incubator uses a bare bulb as a heat source, use caution when putting your hand in to check or turn the eggs. Accidentally touching the bulb can cause serious burns.

Tips Only put as many eggs in the incubator as you can hold at one time. Overcharging will damage hatching.

Hatching an egg is not easy. You need the right temperature for the right time, the right humidity, and a good, powerful flashlight to “candle” eggs, and even then you never know how many of the eggs will hatch. Of course, it depends on how many eggs have been fertilized. Figuring out what’s going on inside these shells can be a real challenge.

Gently hold the egg between your thumb and forefinger over a flashlight, candle, or bare lightbulb. Do this about three or four days into the incubation period.

A fertilized egg appears to have small spider web-like veins in the shell when “candling” it. An unfertilized egg looks clear and should be removed from the incubator immediately.

X-ray the eggs every third or fourth day to find out if the fertilized eggs are still viable. If this is the case, the veining of the spider web should have increased significantly and there should be a solid mass inside the egg.

Candling will also reveal those eggs that for some reason are no longer viable by revealing a dark mass that tends to slosh about in the shell when gently shaken.

Sniff the eggs regularly. Viable eggs smell nice, but the rotten eggs naturally smell bad through the shell. Discard any smelly eggs as they will eventually contaminate the rest of the eggs if you leave them there.

There is a lot of controversial information about duck eggs that puts most sellers off. For example, the allegedly unpleasant taste of duck eggs and the likely contamination with salmonella are of great concern. These controversial cons date back to World War II, when health experts linked a salmonella epidemic to duck eggs.

Since ducks spend most of their time feeding in the dirt; Consumer mindsets are unlikely to change anytime soon. In a way, this means why duck eggs are a rare commodity in local shops.

In fact, some countries like the UK have strict laws on raising ducks for meat and egg production due to their association with the disease.

Reasons supermarkets don’t sell duck eggs

Below are other compelling reasons why most supermarkets do not stock duck eggs.

– Duck eggs taste different

Many people have a massive aversion to the unfamiliar taste of duck eggs. In fact, ducks produce a different type of lipid in their eggs, which changes the texture and taste. Compared to chicken eggs, they have a more distinct flavor that some people find objectionable.

Additionally, some individuals claim that the eggs are wild and cause stomach upset when eaten in large quantities. For these reasons, most egg lovers would use them in baking instead and never on their own.

– Duck eggs are more expensive

Duck eggs cost a little more on the market for a number of reasons. For one thing, the duck industry is relatively small compared to chicken farming. This often makes it difficult for companies to purchase sufficient quantities at a competitive price.

Keep in mind that most sellers selling ducks use brokers who sell them in bulk from huge farms. As a result, the company has to add this markup to their product to cover the cost.

Another factor is the limited number of storage options for these eggs. Most distributors only buy a small number of cases, making stocking quite unrealistic. Finally, certain state laws that are inconsistent with USDA regulations regulate the duck egg industry.

For example, most states require producers to only use clean water for incubation. This implies that farmers should not allow ducks to swim or bathe in stagnant water, which could infect and spread potential diseases.

This is undoubtedly in stark contrast to the chicken industry, where livestock farmers bathe their chickens in natural bodies of water and later sell them. In the long run, factory farms have trouble cleaning their ducks and instead use chlorine tanks, which incurs more maintenance costs.

– Duck Eggs cannot be produced on an industrial scale

There are several reasons why it is nearly impossible for farmers to produce duck eggs on a large scale. One of them is the fact that ducks lay eggs very irregularly. Unlike chickens, who lay eggs almost every day, ducks can take days or even weeks to produce a new one.

While this may work for small poultry farmers, market demand often exceeds supply. This further makes eggs more expensive and causes problems in storage and distribution.

– Duck eggs are not as popular as chickens

Given the health risks associated with eating duck eggs, many people have negative attitudes towards it. In some countries, you can even be prosecuted for making duck eggs available to the public.

It’s no surprise that duck egg sellers receive a lot of criticism from potential customers. In short, there’s always this low perception that duck eggs are inferior compared to chicken eggs.

Are duck eggs more susceptible to salmonella?

Contrary to belief that duck eggs contain salmonella, studies show that they are just as safe as chicken eggs. Despite this knowledge, the public still has the negative judgment that they pose a risk to their health and prefer to choose chicken products. This doesn’t help some duck eggs become contaminated just through improper storage and handling.

Unknown to most people, duck eggs require proper storage to last longer. Finally, they have excess oil glands on the shell that make it difficult for oxygen to pass through. If the shells are not cared for properly, they will become porous and allow bacteria to enter. This development is especially noticeable when you store eggs for more than a month.

All in all, proper duck egg storage areas should contain the right amount of humidity and temperature at all times. That way, their eggs won’t break open due to fluctuations in these conditions. In addition, the rooms must be very clean of possible contaminants that could lead to salmonella infections.

Recent studies also show that commercially sold eggs sometimes spoil due to improper packaging. So if you are planning to buy eggs for commercial reasons, it is best to do some research on your supplier’s location and the maintenance of their facilities first.

But even with proper handling, duck eggs are even more susceptible to contamination as they are laid in an unclean environment. Therefore, confirm the hygiene conditions of your supplier before accepting losses.

Where can you buy duck eggs?

Because of the negative stigma, chicken and duck eggs are rarely sold together. Still, you can find duck eggs in some grocery stores that cater to niche communities like farmers. Some stores also sell them along with goose eggs.

This is only possible if the ducklings are raised in controlled environments and fed healthy feed that does not compromise their quality. You can also buy them from farm-to-door suppliers who specialize in selling this type of product.

Conclusion

Ducks lay eggs infrequently, making it difficult to maintain a constant supply to the market. Still, the negligible amount of duck eggs on the market is dismissed due to rumors of contamination. In addition, there are also freshness concerns as duck eggs require special storage conditions.

If you are planning to embark on a duck egg business, kindly prepare yourself for a lot of scrutiny. Hopefully this article will show you where to buy and sell duck eggs with minimal troubleshooting.

I remember watching my grandma and aunt clean salted duck egg when I was young, but somehow those memories are forgotten until I dig hard in my brain as I write this. So it was my dad who taught the clueless me how to clean salted duck egg last year. hahaha

Below is a simple step-by-step guide on how to clean salted duck egg. This is for the beginner cook OR the clueless e.g. like me (um).

This is what a salted duck egg that has been cured with salted charcoal looks like.

Remove (rub) charcoal by hand. If you don’t like getting your hands dirty, you can put the egg in a plastic bag. Then rub the charcoal with your hand outside of the plastic bag.

Tsk, don’t throw away the charcoal and eggshells. They are good for the plants. I usually break the eggshells into small pieces and spread them around my plants along with the charcoal.

Not clean yet. Hey, I always thought it was gross to get your hands dirty like that. As you can see, I’m fine now. 😛

Rinse the egg under running water.

A cleaned salted duck egg. Yipee! 🙂

How to judge if the salted egg is good or rotten:

1. First, break the egg into a bowl.

2. Note the color of the yolk. It should be bright orange-red and the white should be thick, clear, and translucent.

3. Smell the egg. If it smells bad, the egg is rotten.

Unless you hard boil the egg, there is no way to check if the egg is good or not. So make sure you use the egg as soon as possible. It’s best to store the salted eggs in the fridge if you’re not going to use them right away.

Hard-boiled salted duck egg and white porridge are a match made in heaven. This is the food that my grandmother and aunt used to prepare for us children. This egg is also essential for making mooncakes (yum-yum-yum) and Chinese dumplings (bak chang…yum-yum-yum). My dad uses salted duck egg in his steamed ground pork recipe.

For the modern version, many add salted duck egg to dishes like crab, shrimp, mantis shrimp, lotus root, and squash. How about salted egg yolks in cookies? Oh yeah! They are all so delicious.

A source from Flavors Magazine.