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Laser Rigging: Optimize Your Vang – International Sailing Academy
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Laser / ILCA Sailboat Boom Vang & Rigging
Regain control with an upgraded boom vang or replacement vang parts or line for your Laser sailboat from the experts at West Coast Sailing.
Source: westcoastsailing.net
Date Published: 6/1/2022
View: 1935
Get the Most out of Your Boom Vang
Pro Laser Sailboat Rigging: Rudder & Tiller · Laser Sailing 7 Most Effective Habits of Champions. Tags: rigging · boat work · vang. Share:.
Source: internationalsailingacademy.com
Date Published: 5/10/2021
View: 7826
Vang / Kicker – Laser Sailing Tips
The vang is used to pull the end of the boom down, changing the shape of the sail. … Title: Laser Standard – Running Rigging Sheets Kit; Rating
Source: lasersailingtips.com
Date Published: 8/4/2021
View: 567
Cunningham/Outhaul & Vang Upgrades For the Laser®
Cunningham/Outhaul & Vang Upgrades For the Laser®. Jim Myers. 9 subscribers. Rigging the Laser® … Harken ILCA Ball Bearing 40mm Forward Boom Block $22.00 …
Source: www.intensitysails.com
Date Published: 2/20/2021
View: 7195
Laser: Boom Vang – Marine Outfitters – Ontario Canada
Discover the best Laser: Boom Vang at Marine Outfitters at competitive prices.
Source: www.marineoutfitters.ca
Date Published: 11/19/2022
View: 4865
Laser Rigging – Lansing Sailing Club
Hold the block that attaches to the boom the distance away from the double fdle block it would be when extended to its maximum length (a fully eased vang), …
Source: www.lansingsailing.org
Date Published: 10/28/2021
View: 8786
Laser Rigging | Kanata Sailing Club
Laser Rigging. We have two types of Laser/Laser rigs currently available: … (~40cm) the daggerboard so that it doesn’t get caught by the boom or the vang.
Source: kanatasailingclub.com
Date Published: 1/8/2022
View: 6947
Laser / ILCA Sailboat Boom Vang & Rigging
Spectra and Vectran lines have extremely low stretch and are perfect for performance applications such as travelers or as part of a rudder setup.
Dyneema, Spectra & Vectran sail line
If you are looking for lines with almost no stretch then our range of Dyneema, Spectra and Vectran lines are for you! These high tech lines have almost no stretch and are perfect for performance applications such as travelers or as part of a rudder setup. These lines are uncovered and more prone to wear and tear, but feature a UV coating to protect against sun damage.
Low Strain Lines Explained
Dyneema & Spectra
Dynema® and Spectra® are made from UHMWPE (Ultra High Molecular Weight PolyEthylene), a long chain, high tenacity, oriented strand synthetic fiber with very high strength and high abrasion resistance. This fiber is also known as HMPE (High Modulus PolyEthylene). Dynema® is Dutch company DSM Dyneema’s UHMWPE brand used by Samson in its Amsteel and Amsteel Blue Dyneema lines. Honeywell International manufactures a similar UHMWPE fiber marketed as Spectra®. Both Dyneema (Dynema) and Spectra offer nearly identical characteristics and can be used interchangeably in sailing applications depending on where you source your line.
Vectran
Manufactured from LCP (Liquid Crystal Polymer) fiber, Vectran features high strength, excellent creep and abrasion resistance, excellent flex/wrinkle and chemical resistance, and excellent heat and cut resistance. Vectran is an alternative to Dyneema or Spectra and has less stretch and creep. Many think Vectran is the ultimate fiber, although it doesn’t quite have the fatigue life or UV resistance of Dyneema or Spectra. It’s also a bit heavier and doesn’t float.
General Applications
Dyneema, Spectra and Vectran lines are recommended for use in applications where little to no stretch is the primary requirement. It is common to see these lines as halyards, in sail control line systems, as runners, or even replacing wire rigs in some performance applications. Because most low stretch Dyneema, Spectra, and Vectran lines are single braid with no cover, they are not recommended for applications where the line must be clamped and unclamped frequently. In these use cases you should consider a leash with a sleeve, e.g. B. A heavy-duty Dyneema or Spectra core line with a durable polyester cover.
Find the right diameter
If you’re replacing an existing line, the easiest way to compare the diameter you need is to what you already have. This can be done with a vernier caliper or by making an accurate assessment with a measuring tape. If you’ve used a 7mm reed before and it worked well, another 7mm line is probably a good choice. In most applications there is some flexibility as to the exact diameter that can be used. For example, most blocks have an ‘ideal’ diameter (ie the line diameter that will most effectively run through the block’s sheave), but also a range where you can run a slightly thinner or slightly thicker line. If you have a sheet that gets stuck in your rig, a 1-2mm reduction can help the sheet run more efficiently. If you have a larger boat or rig and want to use a thinner sheet, consider a double braid line with a Dyneema or Spectra core for strength.
Pipe diameter conversion
1 mm = 3/64 inch | 2 mm = 5/64 inch | 3mm = 1/8 inch
4 mm = 5/32 inch | 5 mm = 3/16 inch | 6mm = 1/4 inch
7 mm = 9/32 inch | 8mm = 5/16 inch | 9mm = 3/8 inch
10 mm = 25/64 inch | 11mm = 7/16 inch | 12mm = 1/2 inch
Double braid vs single braid
Two terms you’ll see frequently in cord descriptions are “double braid” and “single braid,” which refer to the way the cord is constructed. Basically, a double braid line has a sheath and a core while a single braid line doesn’t, but there are other important differences to consider when choosing line.
Individual braids consist of either 8 or 12 strands braided in a circular pattern, half clockwise and half counterclockwise. This creates a line that is supple, absorbs twist and doesn’t tend to kink. There are two types of single braid line: performance single braids and polyester/blend fabric single braids. Performance single braids are made from fibers with very low stretch and are designed to withstand extreme loads – think Dyneema, Spectra or Vectran. Polyester/mixed fabric single braids, sometimes referred to as hollow braids, are soft and tactile and designed for sheets and hand-adjusted steering lines. These are less common than heavy duty single braid line, but are recommended in some specific applications.
The Dyneema, Spectra and Vectran lines on this page are single braids. The exception is the Robline Dinghy Vectran, which has a Vectran core.
Double braids, sometimes called braid on braid, have a braided core within a braided outer jacket or sheath. This creates a strong, durable, smooth-running line that is easy to use. Double braids are used for the vast majority of all running rigging on sailboats, including sheets, halyards and steering lines for cruising or racing. There are two types to consider: polyester double braids and high-tech double braids. Polyester double braids, most commonly found on recreational and cruising sailboats, have a polyester cover with a polyester core. These are low maintenance, affordable and durable while still offering relatively low elongation and high working loads. For added strength and minimal stretch, consider high-tech double braids. These lines typically feature a Dyneema or Spectra core (non-stretch) in a polyester or polyester/dyneema blend cover for added durability. They are more expensive but are often the first choice for high performance racing boats.
Whipping & Splicing
Want to tidy up the end of your line or need to add a splice to your rig? Visit our Laying and Splicing page for a full selection of Laying Yarn, Fids, Splicing Needles and Complete Splicing Kits. Perfect for the DIY enthusiast looking to further tweak their rigging.
Get the Most out of Your Boom Vang
Being able to attach the right amount of boom vang when sailing and adjust it correctly and quickly is not only beneficial to your speed and sailing, but also allows you to have the right level of control when you are tired.
In summary: use good quality lines and blocks, make sure your floating block reaches to the boom vang when fully powered off, set your max knot for proper tension, use a plastic handle and mark your vang for 90º, block to block, depower 1 and depower 2.
Split:
Laser Vang
Image title Rating More Info Nautos 91142 – Laser Vang – Complete Set
3.5 out of 5 starsNautos 91106-Complete Vang Without Cable
5.0 out of 5 starsNautos 91117 – Vang Double Block With Jam Cleat
3.5 out of 5 starsNautos 91108 – Laser Pin Vang Head – Set of 4 Pieces
3.5 out of 5 stars Laser 9978 – Stainless steel mast vang plate
5.0 out of 5 starsNautos 91118 – Vang Single Block
3.5 out of 5 starsNautos 91141 – Block for Cx Nautos Laser Vang
3.5 out of 5 starsNautos 9976 – Boom Vang Plate
3.5 out of 5 stars Laser Standard – Running Rigging Sheets Kit
5.0 out of 5 stars
The vang is used to pull down the end of the boom and change the shape of the sail by bending the mast. The more you pull the vang and bend the mast, the flatter and more depowering the sail becomes.
When sailing upwind in stronger winds you want the sail to be as flat as possible so you want the vang to be properly tightened. If the vang is pulled straight in and a squall comes in, you should be able to let out the mainsheet and the sail will stay flat (ie the boom will move out, not up, leaving it depowered). If you haven’t tightened the vang properly, pulling out the mainsheet will propel the sail up, which has the opposite effect of what you want. This will make the boat very difficult to control.
Cunningham and vang
General rule for using the Vang/Kicker
As a general rule, in a comfortable ~10 knot breeze, if you are sailing upwind and able to step out but have no trouble, tug the main sheet block to block and then the Tighten downhaul. and then a little more. This will bend the boom a bit, but if you slacken the mainsheet the boom should rise about 45cm or 18 inches.
As the wind picks up you need more vangs to keep the sail flat when you slacken the mainsheet in the gusts. Ideally, the boom should only move a few (3-6) inches when the mainsheet is slacked off. This requires a lot of downhaul tension and is the main reason why many sailors have decided to upgrade the entire downhaul system.
If you have the vang fairly tight at the top mark, remember to loosen it slightly just before rounding, otherwise it will be difficult to pull away to round the mark. It can also cause the jib to dig into the water at a reach, which can cause you to go swimming.
A loop on the end of the vang (e.g. a bowline if it doesn’t come with a pre-tied knot) is recommended so that it provides an easy holding point. Many also have a small length after the loop and tie it to the sword for easy access.
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