Painting A Gun Slide? The 13 New Answer

Posted on May 30, 2017

Measure would probably be a better word. This is less of a competition than a one-sided masochistic stomp, but I’ll place this next sentence very carefully to avoid confusion. Cured Cerakote beats cured DuraCoat in every measurable way in terms of surface quality, abrasion resistance and overall toughness. There’s a reason DuraCoat still exists, and of course I’ll mention it, but when it comes to coating your firearm to resist the elements and wear and tear, Cerakote wins.

The facts:

When we look at cured end products, several tests were run by placing parts with either coating in an acetone or other solvent bath and the difference after a week is obvious. DuraCoat falls off or wipes off easily and the acid in the bath starts to eat away at the metal. Cerakote holds up.

Another thing to watch out for is the thickness. While Cerakote runs from .0005 to .002 inches depending on the series, DuraCoat finishes can run from .001 to .008, often unevenly. The thinner, more uniform coating allows most internal parts to be coated and still function properly, and the superior wear resistance ensures the new finish will hold up even when flexed on the coating.

Both products come in multiple colors and both offer at least some protection for your firearm, but if you want it to last then look to Cerakote.

Application:

Both products require proper surface cleaning prior to application and for DuraCoat this means sanding the surface and removing any oil. Items to be sprayed are often blasted and chemically stripped to ensure good adhesion.

The saving grace that keeps DuraCoat on the market is its ease of use. After the material has been cleaned and sanded, it is mixed and applied more or less like paint, but far removed from any silicone products that may react with the paint. The precision required for the Cerakote application is somewhat more technical. The surface must be acid washed and blasted with a very specific area of ​​clean sand. The application process itself is difficult and is only recommended for certified technicians using specialized equipment and trained in its application. It’s not just mix and spray, it’s measuring, mixing, testing, filtering, etc. Any missed step will ruin a Cerakote finish.

curing:

DuraCoat is air cured and most Cerakote series are oven cured at a very specific temperature to ensure proper adhesion. Because of these temperatures, some parts such as scopes, springs, etc. require the use of a different Cerakote series than heat-friendly equipment and materials.

DuraCoat can take over a month to fully cure, while even Cerakote’s high-temperature series fully air-cures in just five days. You can read more about the different Cerakote series here.

Conclusion:

For chemical, wear, weather and scratch resistance in a thinner, more even layer, Cerakote applied by a certified applicator is the way to go. DuraCoat is a quick and easy “at home” process that (when used correctly) produces results comparable to high quality paint and takes forever to fully cure meaning you won’t be shooting for a while.

What is Cerkote and why is it beneficial?

There are many benefits to applying a Cerakote coating to your firearm – take advantage of this firearm feature at the Liberty Firearms Institute gunsmith shop.

If you’re looking for a great Christmas gift for the gun enthusiast and collector in your family, a Cerakote coating is a thoughtful and practical gift offered by our gunsmith at Liberty Firearms Institute (LFI).

Often an indoor shooting range offers all the amenities but overlooks a gunsmith shop. At LFI, you can take advantage of our comprehensive firearms products and services, including a local and professional gunsmith. Gift Cerakote this holiday and learn all about the benefits of this firearm coating.

Cerakote for your weapon

Cerakote is a special coating that can be applied to wood, polymers, metals and plastics and consists of a polymer-ceramic compound. The ceramic coating benefits the firearm by providing and enhancing physical components including:

Improvement in wear over time

Provides abrasion, corrosion and chemical resistance

Improving strength and durability

Part sealer, part finish, this gun coating is perfect for prolonging the longevity of your firearm. Up until a few decades ago, guns were protected with stainless and blued steel to protect them from the elements. While these materials hold up well, they are not waterproof and require a coat of hydrophobic oil to keep water out and protect it from rust and corrosion.

The ceramic composite forms a solid surface that’s tough, allowing it to withstand bumps, scratches, and dents if dropped. Cerakote is a great finish that your gunsmith can apply to aftermarket firearms to give them both a nice look and an improvement in durability.

Cerakote is a great option as not only is it waterproof and capable of fully protecting a firearm, but it also comes in a variety of finishes to create anything from a bold to a subtle look.

What are the benefits of Cerakote?

Cerakote is a separate division when it comes to gun coatings. Cerakote acts as a lubricant and many firearm users have found that they can use much less gun lubricant. And compared to other lubes, users report that it attracts fewer unwanted materials like dirt, dust, and other particles, keeping it cleaner and performing at its best.

Cerakote is also optimal for those who live in wet and humid conditions, efficiently protecting it from corrosion and oxidation. So if you sweat a lot in the hotter seasons or live near the coast, Cerakote will keep your gun dry.

Cerakote is beneficial because it comes in a variety of colors and patterns – right down to a standard black or military green! Now your gun can look cool and fashionable to match your car interior or your favorite camouflage. Choose between Zombie Green and Prison Pink instead!

Get Cerakote from your local gunsmith!

LFI has Northern Colorado’s premier gunsmith expertly applying Cerakote as an aftermarket upgrade! Protect your firearm and create a look that suits your unique personality.

Rust, wear and tear are four-letter words to gun owners. As a group we are always looking for a way to achieve higher corrosion and wear resistance. The good news is that the options for improving the longevity of our firearms are more advanced and effective than ever. There are many suitable ways to protect the internal and external components of firearms.

The Springfield Armory Victor .308 rifle comes with a nickel-boron plated fire control group for increased lubricity and excellent corrosion resistance.

And the bad news is that reading a product description for many of these modern guns requires a dictionary to decipher exactly what blueing, anodizing, parkerizing, nib, melonite, black oxide, cerakote, etc. represent. This leaves many gun owners wondering if any of these coatings and finishes make a significant difference.

The short answer is yes, but it’s hard to say that one is better than the other as it depends on the application, the environment, and the amount of maintenance one is willing to undertake on a regular basis. Let’s take a quick look at some of the more common coatings and finishes for the internal and external components of modern firearms and you can judge for yourself what works best for your needs.

blueing

For the traditionalist, bluing a firearm component is the most practical and inexpensive means of achieving corrosion resistance. The process is simple, inexpensive and does not change the size of the component. Blackening steel is synonymous with oxidizing, the process providing a rust-resistant finish.

The blued Garrison 1911 (right) uses a finishing process like that described by the author. Stainless steel model shown on the left.

Blackening is achieved by converting the iron in the steel into black oxide through an electrochemical reaction. Blueing provides rust protection in conjunction with frequent, light oiling. In addition to corrosion resistance, a blued component offers less glare. If you’re willing to put a little muscle into maintaining your gun, blueing is a reliable and inexpensive way to prevent corrosion, and has been for generations.

Parkerization

Parkerizing, often referred to as phosphating, is an excellent alternative to blackening. It still requires frequent oiling, but offers slightly more corrosion resistance than bluing. A Parkerized finish increases a steel component’s resistance to corrosion, nicks and scratches.

Another traditional finishing process, Parkerizing is often used on firearms where durability is a priority. Springfield Armory Mil-Spec shown.

The protection is created through a process in which the steel is immersed in a phosphoric acid solution, creating a gray-blackish coating that results in minimal changes in the dimensions of the component. If you don’t want to put in the extra effort to keep your gun well-oiled, a phosphated metal bit coated with Moly Resin adds extra wear resistance.

anodizing

Anodized aluminum provides a hard surface with excellent lubricity. The process increases the dimensions of the component by increasing the thickness of the naturally occurring oxidative layer. One of the best qualities of anodized aluminum is its toughness.

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The toughness of anodized aluminum makes it extremely popular, especially with a hardcoat finish. Mil-Spec guns feature a Type III anodized hardcoat that provides up to 10X the wear resistance and superior corrosion resistance compared to traditional anodizing.

The hard coating is achieved by immersing the aluminum in an electrolytic solution of sulfuric acid at around 32 degrees Fahrenheit. The completed process yields a finish that can withstand the most extreme conditions.

Cerakote

Cerakote is becoming increasingly popular in today’s gun market, and with good reason. It can be manufactured in a wide variety of colors, applied to a variety of surfaces and is one of the most durable finishes available today.

A Cerakote finish gave this Springfield Armory 1911 Operator extreme durability and good looks.

Cerakote is a tough, thin, and protective ceramic coating that offers excellent corrosion resistance, is exceptionally scratch resistant, and tolerates extreme heat—up to 1,000 degrees Fahrenheit. The coating is easily applied to metal, composite and plastic surfaces. This attribute coupled with the customizable color options makes it perfect for gun owners looking to customize their weapon.

The customizability, durability, and ruggedness are strong selling points for Cerakote, but the low maintenance generally seals the deal for many shooters. If you don’t mind paying a little more for a coating that forms a nearly impenetrable barrier on the outside of your gun, Cerakote is an excellent option.

Feather

If you’re looking for a good option for internal components, Nickel-Boron (NiB) offers increased lubricity, excellent corrosion resistance, and ease of cleaning. It is a chemically applied spray finish that produces a uniform surface finish on tight-tolerance parts. It can be used on titanium, aluminum and steel to create a surface that allows free movement of components with minimal friction. A NiB finish requires a little lubrication from time to time and provides a silvery metallic appearance.

Black Nitride

Remember seeing Black Nitride, Melonite, Ni-Corr, or Salt Bath Nitride in a product description and wondering what the difference is? Well, not much. All of these are variations on a surface treatment known as ferritic nitrocarburizing, a modified form of nitriding.

This SAINT Edge rifle features a melonite-treated barrel. This surface treatment reduces wear and leads to a longer service life.

Simply put, this is a process that transforms the metal surface and improves its resistance to wear and corrosion. The process requires a ferrous metal to interact with nitrogen and carbon to create a hard, corrosion, fatigue and scratch resistant barrier. This is not an applied coating but a barrier created by a chemical reaction. Barrier removal requires metal removal to access the exposed steel underneath, making it well suited for internal components and drilling.

Final Thoughts

The list of coatings and protective coatings for modern firearms continues to grow and determining which is most appropriate boils down to a simple cost-benefit analysis by any gun owner. The only thing that is certain is that all refinements of modern firearms work differently well. Some are less expensive but require more maintenance, while others are easier on the wallet but reduce the man-hours required to maintain your favorite gun.

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The best way for a do-it-yourself hobby gunsmith to finish the metal, and often the stock or grips of a gun as well, is with spray coating. Spray coatings are much easier to work with than traditional methods like hot blushing, which require a lot of equipment and the use of nasty chemicals.

Spray coatings come in many colors and styles, and can be applied to almost any material. They also protect gunmetal from rust and act as a barrier against corrosion-causing substances.

Spray coatings have become the standard for many custom manufacturers of hunting, tactical, or target firearms. Blueing is traditional and has some visual appeal, but for a working weapon that sees plenty of field time, spray coating makes more sense. It’s less expensive, protects the gun, camouflages it in the field, and is much easier to maintain or repair.

They are also better for your love life. Unless you’re a recluse living alone, just try putting blue stain tanks on your kitchen stove, I dare you! Let me know how this works.

How to prepare a weapon for painting

Acetone and Brakleen are both useful degreasers. Bryce M. Towsley

Before refinishing a firearm, you must disassemble the gun. Make sure it’s not loaded and take some photos before you start so you can put it all back together. Remove all stocks, grips, sights, scopes and scope mounts. It’s best to disassemble the gun as much as you can and feel comfortable with.

All parts must be cleaned and degreased. Acetone works very well for this. Brakleen spray cans also do a good job of getting into the cracks and crevices.

Finally, each individual part must be cleaned with a residue-free drying solvent and completely degreased. From this point on, do not touch any more degreased parts without clean gloves.

The hole should be sealed with a conical silicone plug. Other areas that are not to be coated must be masked off with masking tape. Always wear a respirator, not a cheap painting mask, but a quality respirator when blasting or spraying. Safety goggles are a must, as are leather sandblasting gloves.

Do a few practice runs on a piece of cardboard with the spray gun or rattle can so you know how to get the best results. Using a spray gun or airbrush, set the recommended pressure and spray distance for the product you are using. It may take a little experimentation with the mix of air and color to get it right. You want a nice, even, thin coating. Use too much and it will look like paint, not a gun finish. It will also be subjected to running, which means you’ll have to wash it off and start over. If you have too much air and too little coating, or are too far from the part to be coated, the atomized paint can partially dry before it coats the metal. This results in a rough, matte finish that is not durable. So, practice, practice, practice; then spray your gun.

Further preparation depends on your resources. It is covered in each of the three following sections. Of course, the end result will be reflected in the work you do on the gun.

A great way to paint your gun: Rattle Can Finish

This Winchester 94 .30/30 was reworked with a sanding pad and DuraCoat. No sandblasting. Bryce M. Towsley

Let’s be clear, the best way to spray coat is to prepare the metal by sandblasting. It roughens the surface, which allows the paint to adhere better. The best coating is applied with an adjustable spray gun powered by an air compressor.

But I know that’s not always possible in a DIY situation. Fear not, you can refinish your weapon without sandblasting or airbrushing and the results can be quite amazing.

Air dried coatings with rattle cans can give an excellent result. Bryce M. Towsley

DuraCoat and Brownell’s Aluma-Hyde II air drying coatings are available in rattle cans. The rattle can is named after the metal balls in the can, which mix the liquid and produce a distinct rattling sound when the can is shaken. These cans are pressurized like any can of spray paint and can give the firearm a nice air dry coating.

Some products can be applied over old surfaces, most cannot. Check the instructions for each product. DuraCoat says you can roughen the metal with a Scotch-Brite pad and spray over the degreased metal. I’ve done this with pretty good results.

DuraCoat No Sand prepares the metal without sandblasting. Bryce M. Towsley

DuraCoat also has a new product called No Sand. After degreasing, applying No Sand to all metal surfaces with a Scotch-Brite pad will help prepare the surface for the final DuraCoat application.

Prepare the degreased surface. Seal the hole and tape off any other areas that you do not want to coat with painter’s tape. Hang the parts on wires. Always do a dry run on some scrap material to get a feel for the spray volume and pattern. Spray on the paint in thin layers. It is better to use several thin coats than one thick one. Follow directions for all repeat coatings.

Read Next: How to Make an Old Rifle More Accurate

Once the part is coated to your satisfaction, allow it to hang and cure. Observe the recommended curing times on the can. Do not handle parts before the recommended curing time has elapsed.

A better way to paint your gun: sandblasters and airbrushes

A spray gun gives better results. Bryce M. Towsley

With gun coatings, as so often in life, preparation is everything. The best results are achieved by sandblasting the metal. One approach is to find a metal shop near you and pay them to blast the parts. If you do this, make sure you degrease the metal afterwards as you cannot guarantee the purity of the blasting media.

Or you can buy the equipment to do it yourself. Of course, you’ll need an air compressor with a large enough tank to maintain pressure while blasting.

The author’s larger blasting cabinet. Bryce M. Towsley

Using a blast cabinet is the best approach. However, you can get by with an inexpensive gravity feed sandblasting gun. Before I bought a cabinet, I would use my handheld sandblaster over a cut-off 55-gallon plastic drum to scavenge some of the sand for reuse, or consider the abrasive a consumable and just buy more. Be sure to do this outdoors as you don’t want the sanding dust in your shop. Always wear a respirator, safety goggles and heavy gloves. Don’t think you can do without the gloves; Sooner or later you will screw up and blow your hand. It hurts like hell without gloves.

An inexpensive gravity sandblaster will work just fine. Bryce M. Towsley

Sandblast the parts with 100 corundum. Use 80 to 100 psi for metal and 30-40 psi for non-metal parts such as wood, fiberglass, plastic or polymer. Anodized aluminum parts only require 30-40 psi. There is no need to remove the anodizing, but you will need to reapply it.

Nothing should shine after the radiance; All parts should have an even, matte finish. If there are shiny spots on any part, hit it again.

Of course, when you sandblast, you have an air compressor. Given that, it’s best to buy a spray gun as well. There are many air drying options for coatings. Some of the most popular are DuraCoat, Cerakote, and Gun Kote. They are intended for use in an HVLP spray gun with a 0.8mm tip.

A spray gun allows for more options when choosing coatings and much more control over spraying as you work. The spray guns are not terribly expensive. You can find them online for around $15. Mine was $50 and has taken four years and many projects so far.

The best way to paint your gun: Heat hardened finish

The author built this in 1911 from individual parts and refined it with Cerakote. Bryce M. Towsley

The pros use a heat cured coating. Not only is this a much shorter time from spraying to installation, it is also expected that the thermoset coatings will be a more durable end product.

Continue reading: Building the Ultimate Open-Country Hunting Rifle

Baking products include Cerakote H and Elite, DuraCoat’s DuraBake, a pair of Brownells, Gun-Kote, and Teflon/Moly. The list goes on with many other products on the market, but I have some experience with these. When the parts go into the oven, it’s best to use heat-resistant tape to mask off any areas you won’t be coating.

Heat resistant tape and plugs. Bryce M. Towsley

If you are using a thermosetting coating, I strongly recommend that you read the instructions and follow the recommendations they contain. There are always some differences in the approach.

Most oven cured products require a short hang time to flash off some of the chemicals before placing the coated piece in the oven. The key is to hang them so they don’t touch anything. A little bump or brush and you’ll have to do it all over again.

A word on that. Always keep a bucket of solvent handy for breakdowns. You will have a few, so use the recommended solvent to remove the spray coating and start over.

A convection toaster works for smaller portions. Bryce M. Towsley

For small parts, a convection toaster works fairly well to “cook” the coating. I added an oven thermometer to mine so I can better control the heat. I also have some magnetic hooks that stick on top and are good for hanging stuff.

The author’s self-made oven. Bryce M. Towsley

If you want to oven harden a gun barrel or similar, longer part, you need a tall oven. The commercial ovens are terribly expensive so I built one which was an adventure.

My latest book, Gunsmithing Modern Firearms at www.brycetowsley.com, tells you how the furnace is built and gives more detailed information on plating firearms.

Today’s gun owner has many plating options ranging from bluing to Tenifer™ to Cerakote. Each of them has its own unique benefits and properties. The type of coating you choose depends on a few factors: how much you are willing to spend, the quality of the part being treated, and the expected environment in which you intend to use your gun. Each of the options below is uniquely suited to specific applications and there are some differences in the effectiveness of each for corrosion protection, durability and longevity. For more information, read on and learn about six different gun part coating options: Black Oxide, Parkerize, Anodize, Cerakote, Nickel-Boron, and Ferritic Nitrocarburizing.

Weapon blueing (Black Oxide)

Blackening of steel, also known as bluing, oxidizing and black passivating, is a process used to impart a rust-resistant surface to the metal. Blueing guns are achieved through an electrochemical process that converts the iron in the steel into magnetite, or black oxide. Blueing provides your gun with minimal rust protection and requires frequent light oiling or other protective treatment to ensure maximum protection against corrosion. A black oxide coating causes no dimensional change in the treated object and is one of the cheapest coating options available. The gun bluing process also allows for a reduction in the glare effect of a treated piece.

Bluing can be referred to by many names including cold bluing, hot bluing, rust bluing and smoke bluing. Each of these processes is slightly different. The cold bluing compound is based on selenium dioxide and colors steel very dark grey. This type of bluing is difficult to apply evenly and is best used for small repairs or touch-ups. The second method is hot bluing and uses alkali salt. The process is carried out at temperatures ranging from 275 to 311 degrees Fahrenheit. Developed to speed up the factory bluing process, this process gives the finished project a beautiful grey-blue finish. With the right training, you can perform a hot burn yourself, but be sure to wear the necessary protective gear and avoid the steam of the hot salt bath. Finally, rust bluing and smoke bluing offer the best form of rust-resistant bluing of the four. This process triggers a reaction that converts any rust-prone metal into magnetite, effectively killing the rusting process before it can even begin.

Parkerizing for weapons (phosphating)

Gun Parkerizing helps protect a steel surface from corrosion and increases its resistance to nicks and scratches by immersing the steel in a phosphoric acid solution. The process is also known as bonding or phosphating. The main component of a Parkerization solution is often zinc or manganese with the addition of copper and chlorates. The solution is then heated to 190 to 210 degrees Fahrenheit.

Image: Spikes Tactical Parkerized (Phosphate) Bolt Carrier Group

As the gun parkerizes, streams of tiny bubbles rise from the metal part during the reaction. When the conversion process is complete, the bubble flow stops. Depending on the ingredients, the color of a phosphated piece of metal ranges from medium gray to black. When coated with an epoxy or molybdenum finish, Parkerized gun parts become self-lubricating for added wear resistance. If you forgo the extra finish, a light coat of gun oil will help improve a Parkerized part’s lubricity.

Anodizing pistols

The anodizing process increases the thickness of the natural oxide layer on the surface of a piece of metal. The name comes from the process itself. The part to be treated becomes the anode electrode of an electrical circuit to create a reaction. Anodized aluminum has increased lubricity and an improved adhesion surface for paint primers, adhesives, etc. The anodizing process for guns causes a dimensional increase of the treated part

Image: Battle Arms Development Anodized Enhanced Magazine Release (BAD-EMR)

The first industrial application of anodizing was in 1923 to protect duralumin seaplane parts from the corrosive effects of salt water. These early chromic acid based applications were known as the Bengough-Stuart process. The first sulfuric acid anodizing processes were patented in 1927. To date, sulfuric acid is the most commonly used anodizing electrolyte.

Aluminum develops a natural oxidation layer in air. Anodizing enhances this natural occurrence to create the anodized finish and is one of the toughest finishes available. In fact, it is second only to diamond in hardness. The porous nature of the anodized metal allows it to hold dyes as well. Colored snap hooks are a good example of the coloring possibilities of anodized aluminum.

Image: AXTS Raptor Hardcoat Anodized AR-15 Ambidextrous Charging Handle

Hardcoat anodizing guns are often referred to as Type III anodizing and are commonly used in Mil-Spec applications. This type of metal coating is formed by applying an electrolytic solution of sulfuric acid at a temperature of about 32 degrees Fahrenheit. The time required to complete the anodizing process depends on the alloy itself and the desired thickness of the coating. The completed process produces a gray or black finish. Hardcoat anodizing has 10 times greater wear resistance than traditional anodizing and superior corrosion resistance.

Cerakote coatings for weapons

Cerakote is a ceramic-based coating that comes in a variety of colors. It’s one of the easiest finishing options available when you want to custom color your firearm. Unlike certain other surface types, a Cerakote coating does not attract abrasive dust particles and provides excellent lubricity to the treated parts.

Image: Odin Works XMR 2 Extended Magazine Release – Flat Dark Earth

Cerakote has outstanding heat reduction characteristics and is extremely scratch and impact resistant. This finish can be applied to all types of materials including plastic, metal and composite surfaces. Cerakote is easy to maintain and will last for years before needing a touch up. A gun treated with Cerakote is virtually impervious to the corrosive effects of salt spray and water. The Cerakote coating can withstand heat temperatures in excess of 1,000 degrees Fahrenheit.

Nickel-boron plating for weapons

As with other coatings, a nickel-boron finish offers increased lubricity and an easier cleaning process for firearms treated with it. A nickel-boron finish gives the treated part a silvery metallic appearance and is extremely corrosion resistant. While some people have mentioned that it can be polished to a gold-chrome color, this action increases the potential for glare when exposed to the sun or bright light. Nickel-boron can give a pistol a two-tone look when applied to the slide and barrel. Surfaces treated with Nickel-Boron still require a small amount of lubrication.

Image: LANTAC Enhanced Full Auto Nickel Boron Bolt Carrier Group

Nickel-Boron can be applied to a variety of products including stainless steel, aluminum and titanium. The process does not require an electric current, making the coating more uniform than other processes that use electric currents to create the coating. Two surfaces coated with this finish rub smoothly against each other with minimal friction. Because no electrical current is required, applying nickel-boron to a metal part is often referred to as electroless nickel plating.

The solution used in this procedure contains sodium borohydride or alkylamine borane and a source of nickel ions and control chemicals. The application of a nickel-boron coating helps the metal disperse heat more efficiently, resulting in lower operating temperatures of the treated parts. Nickel-boron is sometimes used for AR rifle bolt carrier groups.

Ferritic nitrocarburizing firearms

Despite its name, ferritic nitrocarburizing is actually a modified form of nitriding rather than carburizing. The process introduces nitrogen and carbon into steel or another ferrous alloy. The ferritic nitrocarburizing process is used to impart improved scratch and scuff resistance, fatigue strength and corrosion resistance to the treated metal. The relatively low processing temperatures of this process cause little distortion of shape, along with reduced thermal shock to the metal from temperature changes.

Ferritic nitrocarburizing was first performed in England by Imperial Chemical Industries. The process was originally called “Sulfinuz” due to the presence of sulfur in the salt bath. Although this process was successful with certain products, it was not water soluble and difficult to remove once the process was complete. Gaseous forms of ferritic nitrocarburizing were tried in the late 1950s. The new process produced a surface similar to Sulfinuz and included ammonia and hydrocarbon gases.

Degussa, a German company now known as Evonik Industries, invented a salt bath method that did not contain the potentially harmful sulfur ingredient. This new process is known under the names Tufftride™ and Tenifer™. A similar process known as Melonite™ is used in North America.

Image: Seekins Precision Melonited Gas Tube

The salt bath solution contains alkali cyanate as a key ingredient. The alkali cyanate reacts with the treated part to form alkali carbonate. After the bath has been treated to convert the carbonate back to cyanate, the process is complete. The resulting layer is extremely scratch resistant.

Quenching Polish Quenching (QPQ)

Quenching Polishing Quenching is a more effective version of ferritic nitrocarburizing and increases the corrosion resistance, lubricity and wear resistance of the treated part. Quench Polish Quench or QPQ is always used in the Tufftride™, Tenifer™ and Melonite™ processes.

Image: JP Enterprises .750 Adjustable Gas Block in QPQ Black Finish

QPQ starts with the standard salt bath nitrocarburizing cycle to create the protective layer of iron and iron nitride. Thereafter, the piece is polished by one of several mechanical polishing processes. These include lapping, centerless grinding and barrel finishing. After the polishing process, the piece is again immersed in the salt bath solution for up to half an hour. This second dip increases the metal’s resistance to corrosion by giving it a layer of iron oxide.

The Tenifer/Melonite finish has a 64 HRC rating, just six units below Diamond’s 70 HRC rating. This coating is 85 percent more corrosion resistant than a hard chrome coating and results in a gray or black color. The Austrian gun manufacturer Glock Ges.m.b.H uses the Tenifer process for the slides and barrels of its handguns. The Tenifer coating is given a Parkerized finish after completion.

Conclusion

All coating processes are designed to protect your prized firearm from the elements at all times: in the field, by your side, or in the trunk of your vehicle. Because a firearm is often an investment, you want to be sure that your gun is receiving the best possible treatment to ensure many trouble-free hours of shooting.

Painting old or weathered plastic playground equipment can be a great way to restore its “luster” and appearance. Plastic playground equipment is durable and will last for many, many years, but the outer appearance doesn’t last quite the same.

Sunlight, rain and snow will fade the surface and lose its original polish and colour. Painting the plastic playground equipment makes the parts look like new again.

This is also a great way to save money. You can buy or get used plastic playground equipment and make it look like new again!

In this article, I explain in detail how to paint your plastic play equipment, including what paint to use, whether you need a primer and sealer, and how to prepare the toy or equipment for painting. This is a fun, easy, do-it-yourself process with easy-to-follow steps.

Q: My metal patio chairs are starting to look a bit worn and rusty. Can I get good results painting them with some leftover exterior paint I have from a project? If not what is the best color for metal?

A: Metal can be difficult to paint due to its slick, smooth surface – and the can you have sitting around in the garage probably won’t cut it. To prepare metal for paint adhesion, you must first clean it with soap and water, remove light rust with a wire brush, sand it with fine-grit sandpaper, and then (in most cases) prime it. If you follow these measures you will only be successful with special metal paints or multi-surface paints labeled for use on metal. To make matters worse, metal-friendly paints are sold in different bases (oil and water), containers (regular and aerosol), and special formulas to ward off rust or handle extreme heat. So read on to find the best paint for metal surfaces and get great results on your next project.

Oil paints are the most durable.

Opt for oil-based paint when painting outdoor metal surfaces such as fences, patio furniture or barbecue grills, as well as indoor heavy-duty items such as kitchen cabinets and window frames. Generally more expensive than water-based paint ($20 to $50 a gallon), it’s formulated with pigments, alkyds (synthetic resins) or plant-based oil, and solvents (which emit fetid fumes when applied) to cure into a rigid coating that repels water and stains and resists bumps and scrapes. However, oil paint is prone to cracking or chipping and also tends to fade over time, so consider a product with built-in anti-fade protection, like Rust-Oleum Hammered Metal Finish ($12.98 per quart on Amazon).

You’ll get a more even finish if you apply an oil-based primer first (e.g. Rust-Oleum Clean Metal Primer, $8.98 per liter on Amazon). However, you can apply oil paint directly to metal as it does not contain water and therefore there is no risk of rusting. Skipping the primer can save you time when painting, but you’ll still wait a little longer for oil-based paint to dry (usually six to eight hours).

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Water-based paints offer faster drying and fewer fumes.

When painting light-to-moderately used interior metal surfaces—think sconces, bed frames, or nightstands in guest rooms—choose water-based acrylic paint, a cheaper ($15 to $40 per gallon) and faster-drying option than oil paint. Acrylic paint, composed of pigments, acrylic resins, and water, emits fewer fumes and dries in under an hour to a flexible film that resists cracking, chipping, and fading. However, it is more prone to dents, stains and scuffs. A typical acrylic paint (BEHR PRO e600 acrylic paint, $23.98 per gallon at The Home Depot) also has less organic matter than oil paint, so it’s less likely to develop mold and mildew, making it a better option for moisture-prone ones Areas such as kitchens and power bath. Remember that water-based metal can rust if you put it in direct contact with water-based paint. Therefore, apply an oil-based primer before applying.

Aerosols provide more complete coverage of irregular surfaces.

Oil and water based metallic paints come in large cans for brush or roller application, or in aerosol cans for spraying. Large cans may be the most cost-effective option when painting large, linear metal objects like fences and backsplashes, but spray paints (eg, Rust-Oleum Hammered Metal Finish Spray, $8.74 for 12 ounces on Amazon) are more convenient when painting smaller ones Surfaces with irregular contours, such as B. curved chair legs, lights or bed frame bars. Spray paint can cover these metal surfaces more smoothly and with less application than a brush, and you also avoid annoying brush marks.

RELATED: The dos and don’ts of spray painting

Choose rust-resistant paint on moisture-prone surfaces.

Rust can form on any ferrous or ferrous alloy metal such as steel when exposed to air and moisture for a long period of time. If you plan to paint metal patio furniture or ornaments, or interior features like splashbacks that regularly come in contact with water or moisture, look for rust-resistant paint (e.g. Amazon) to preserve the look and integrity of the metal.

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Use high temperature paint on heat-generating surfaces.

Painting a radiator, outdoor grill, fire pit surround, or other heat-producing device? Normal oil or water based paints can blister and peel when exposed to the high temperatures these devices generate during operation. To preserve your paintwork, choose a high temperature metal paint formulated with heat resistant resins to withstand high temperatures such as: B. Rust-Oleum High Heat Spray Paint ($6.98 for 12 oz at Amazon).

When your plastic items are dull, outdated, or just plain unattractive, you can paint them with fresh colors and smooth finishes to make them look new again. Painting your plastic items keeps them out of the landfill and helps you preserve your favorite items. Painting plastic is a quick project with long-lasting results.

before you start

Set up a work area for painting your plastic items that is protected from other areas as spray paint can carry overspray.

Work on old cardboard instead of plastic wrap. Ink penetrates cardboard but tends to smear on plastic wrap.

safety aspects

When painting plastic and using mineral spirits, be sure to work in a ventilated area, avoid breathing the fumes, stay away from heat sources, and do not eat or drink in the area. The cap should be tightly closed when the can is not in use.

If you come into contact with the mineral spirits, wash your hands immediately with soap and warm water.

The Glock pistol slide is factory coated with a black oxide finish that some gun owners find ugly. Polishing the slide to remove the coating is inexpensive. If you pay attention to this, your handwork can become very beautiful. You can either go for a brushed stainless steel look or a high gloss finish.

Remove the visor.

Spread the metal polish on the outer slide and leave it on for a few minutes.

Dip a small corner of the medium steel wool and begin rubbing gently down the side of the slide using long, even strokes. The goal is to remove the oxide, not the metal underneath. The black oxide should eventually peel off.

Continue to dip the steel wool and rub the slide until all the black oxide is gone. You may occasionally need to stop and rinse the slide with water to remove the residual oxide from the surface. Dry completely before proceeding.

Skip the clamping serrations as trying to remove the finish between them could accidentally round the edges.

Continue rubbing the slide with the fine steel wool and metal polish after the black oxide has been removed. This will remove the leftover yellow tint. Be sure to rub in the direction of the metal grain for optimal smoothness. At this point, the slide should look like satin or brushed stainless steel.

Polish the slide further with a buff and polishing paste if you want a high gloss finish. This step requires a lot of experience with a buff and a very steady hand, as a small step too far or too hard a push can dislodge metal from the chute.

Thoroughly wash the slide again to remove any metal polish. Dry it completely.

Coat the slide with a synthetic lubricant. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions.

Black nitride or ferritic nitrocarburizing is the thermochemical that simultaneously diffuses nitrogen and carbon into the surface of ferrous metals. During the process, a two-part surface layer is formed, an outer iron nitride layer with an underlying nitrogen diffusion layer. Nitrogen and carbon are absorbed on and diffused into the surface of the metal. Reproducible and uniform layers with a predetermined thickness are formed on all areas of the metal. This process results in significantly improved surface properties of ferrous metal parts while maintaining dimensional and form stability. Black nitride is commonly used as an alternative to traditional high temperature heat treatments such as carburizing and carbonitriding.

Product description

Here’s a great way to customize your Glock and make your pistol stand out from the rest.

GlockStore Performance & Custom is proud to offer the revolutionary CeraKote Ceramic Firearm Coatings that allow you to transform the look of your Glock pistol.

Send your parts with the order number to:

GS performance

CeraKote Custom Shop

1930 Air Lane Drive

Nashville, TN37210

Note: If you are ordering Cerakote Color Fill, please specify which spaces to fill in the comments during the ordering process.

Also note: If your customization order includes an entire gun or gun frame, you will be charged our standard Fedex Firearms shipping rate of $40 to return the gun to your specified address.

For that custom gun finish, choose Kustom Koatings powder coating. We can powder coat and finish any firearm or weapon, from pistols to shotguns to high power rifles. Kustom Koatings offers hundreds of custom finishes such as clear coats, metallic finishes, candy colors, fluorescent, crumpled finishes, flat finishes, high gloss finishes, mirror finishes and iridescent finishes from Cerakote that will take your gun to the next level. With superior performance, corrosion resistance and high temperature applications, you never have to worry about the appearance or durability of your gun’s finish. All of our powder coating projects are completed under one roof by our experienced and knowledgeable powder coating staff. We have now also opened a full range gun shop. We can buy, sell or trade your guns and we offer lay-away, transfers and customization for any type of firearm. If you’re looking to sell your gun to someone you don’t know, we can offer you a background check so you know who you’re selling to. We can also install scopes and offer scopes for any firearm. Call Kustom Koating at 304-523-5880 or visit our shop for more information.

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Reversible magazine catch

The Gen5 frame’s magazine catch is reversible and enlarged towards the back of the pistol. The reversible magazine catch is more user-friendly for the shooter, allowing them to switch the catch to the left or right side of the pistol.