Show Stick For Pigs? Top 99 Best Answers

39″ BLING Deluxe Pig Whips

with chrome tips and replaceable popper The deluxe chrome tip hog whip features a sturdy shaft, a chrome accent above the rubber handle and a chrome tip at the end of the handle for a luxurious show ring appearance.

The pig whip allows the exhibitor to stay close enough to inspect the pig but far enough away for the judge to have a clear view.

Pig whip measures 39″ plus 6″ popper.

The popper can be easily replaced when worn.

Ordering information for optional padded protective cover

6″ replacement poppers for pig whips

Package of 2 VPEHOGWHIPP

Ordering Information

39″ & 48″ Deluxe Weaver Leather Show Hog Whips

with chrome tips and replaceable popper The deluxe chrome tip hog whip features a sturdy shaft, a chrome accent above the rubber handle and a chrome tip at the end of the handle for a luxurious show ring appearance.

The pig whip allows the exhibitor to stay close enough to inspect the pig but far enough away for the judge to have a clear view.

Pig whip measures 39″ & 48″ plus 6″ popper.

The popper can be easily replaced when worn

39″ Colors available: Hurricane Blue, Lime Zest, Orange Crush, Pink Fusion, Purple Jazz, Black, Blue and Red

48″ Available Colors: Black, Blue and Red Ordering Information

39″ pig whip with chrome tip handle

& Durable Tip – Flexible or rigid heat-sealed snap is covered with clear polyethylene tubing to prevent fraying

Chrome accents above and below the handle look great in the show ring

The rubber handle offers excellent comfort and grip

39 inch hog whip with chrome tip handle and durable tip

Fest – Blue Whip

VPEHOGWHIP-FIRM-BL

Ordering Information 39″ hog whip with chrome tip handle and durable tip

Flexible – Black Whip

VPEHOGWHIP-FLEX-BK

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42″ whips with Intel gel grips and interchangeable snaps

New to the industry, these Intel Gel grip whips offer unparalleled comfort with a non-slip grip for a secure hand feel.

This unique gel grip helps reduce hand fatigue so you can focus on the task at hand.

These whips feature a 6″ black and white snap for easy replacement should it ever wear out.

42″ Available Colors: Purple, Pink

and lime green (black no longer available) Ordering information

6″ replacement snaps

for 39″, 42″ and 48″ pig whips Use our 12″ nylon snap to replace old or frayed whip snaps.

Pack of 2 poppers Pack of 2 spare poppers

VPEHOGWHIPP

Ordering Information

39″ & 48″ Show Pig Whips

White Handle Chrome Tip Pig Whip Chrome Tip features a sturdy shaft, a chrome accent above the white handle and a chrome tip at the end of the handle for a luxurious show ring appearance.

The pig whip allows the exhibitor to stay close enough to inspect the pig but far enough away for the judge to have a clear view.

Pig whip measures 39″ & 48″.

Colors available: Red, Orange, Pink, Lime Green, Purple, Blue, Black and Green

39″ Pig Whip View ordering information

48″ Pig Whip View ordering information

By the time you bring your calf to a show ring, you have already invested a great deal of time and resources in caring for him. As you have put great attention to detail in their housing, diet and health, you should do the same in their training and exhibition. As the time approaches to show off your efforts, you need a show stick to help you in the ring. Here’s what you need to know about this important piece of cattle show equipment and how to choose the right cattle show stick for your needs.

What is a Cattle Show Stick and why do you use it?

A cattle show stick is a tool that will both help calm your animal and help place its feet in the ring. Most showsticks have a long shaft like a golf club with a blunt hook and a point at one end. One way to use the wand is to gently scratch the animal’s stomach or chest to calm it down. Another use for the show stick is to place the animal’s feet in the ring.

Some exhibitors also use their display sticks for other animal control topics. For example, if the animal is moving too fast, it can be slowed down by placing the stick in front of its nose. The stick can also be used for the posture known as ‘loining’ or ‘raking the tip’.

How to choose a Cattle Show Stick

There are some common misconceptions about choosing the right showstick. Showsticks are available in a variety of colors and patterns that you can choose to suit your taste and personality. However, the most important aspect of your showstick is its length. Contrary to popular belief, small competitors should not have shorter sticks and large competitors should not have longer sticks. It’s the exact opposite.

A small exhibitor often needs a longer show stick so that he can reach the animal’s hind paws without strain or dislocation. Conversely, a taller exhibitor doesn’t need as much reach, so the length of their showstick may be slightly shorter. Also, if you are attending showmanship or confirmation classes, a black or silver showstick is probably your best bet. Otherwise, feel free to choose clearer colors and patterns.

US Whip’s Cattle Show Sticks

When you’re ready to buy your first or next cattle show stick, consider quality products from U.S. whip into consideration. The U.S. The cattle show sticks sold in Whip are made in the USA and their craftsmanship is guaranteed. These high-quality showsticks are available in four sizes from 48″ to 66″ and in eight colors or six print patterns.

The pinnacle of your raising and training a calf is becoming a great showman. Access to the right tools, such as B. a high-quality cattle show stick, can help you and your animal to achieve this goal.

It’s no secret that once you’ve brought home your new show prospects, your young exhibitors are anxious to get down to the barn, get to know each other, and blow them broke. However, with anything worth doing, there is a process that must be followed and when working with small show pig projects, patience and consistency are key.

“I’m a big believer in butchering pigs at a very young age,” said Jackie Lackey, a partner at Lackey Livestock in Haskell, Texas, and mother of Weston and Grant, who show pigs competitively across the country. “We have a routine from the start and try our best to stay consistent to mitigate the formation of bad habits and dealing with it from a young age has been successful for our family.”

Lackey offers some tips on bringing home new show pig projects, taming them, and propelling them into the winners’ circle.

you tame

Lackey said the first few weeks to 10 days that her pigs are home are spent domesticating the pigs and getting them used to the people around them and their surroundings. Young showmen Grant and Weston will spend a lot of time sitting with them in the pigsty for the first week so the pigs get used to it. They will also spend time leaning over the fence or bending over the pens before feeding time scratching the pigs’ heads, all positive interactions. Once the pigs get used to the people, these people will slowly and gently introduce a whip into the pigs – over the fence and then into the pens so the pigs learn to respect the whip and not fear it.

“Our goal is for our pigs to have a positive interaction with us every time we enter the barn. They generally calm down fairly quickly. Regardless of age, every pig in our barn is treated like a show pig,” Lackey said.

Of course there are some pigs who are not so easy to tame. When that happens, Lackey reminds exhibitors not to rush the process; that only initiates the creation of bad habits. Spend some extra time with them at the pen, or take extra time with them on the wash rack – the best place to calm a tense pig.

“Breaking pigs only gets worse when you have to break bad habits. Our goal is never to develop a bad habit—a pig that runs, a pig that backs down, a pig that fights or bites the whip, one that wants to lower its head. If you’re patient enough to master one step at a time, you’ll save yourself a lot of time in the long run,” Lackey said.

Once the pigs are tame, the Lackey family begins their daily driving lesson. Her daily routine includes driving the pig straight from the pen to the washing rack. Every time the gate opens, the pig’s head should be like they’re going into the ring at a show, never put their heads down or let the pig walk. You rinse them with gently running water in the wash stand every time they come out of the pen. Then they lead her back and forth down the center aisle of the barn for a few laps, using the whip gently. Weston and Grant work to teach the pigs to respect them and the whip by staying in the middle of the aisle and not getting too close to the stalls on either side.

Next Steps

The pigs have become tame, have gotten used to the young exhibitors and have learned to drive from the stable to the washing rack. Now it’s time to prepare her for the show ring and master the art of whip use. Lackey said they have a big lawn outside of their barn where they take them to learn how to run in big circles and to build endurance for the bigger Texas majors. It is imperative for these pigs to take long strides and do long laps; just like they should do in a show ring.

The lackeys do not recommend small pens or tight spaces to walk your pig. You need to learn how to get out and move, stretch out and use your back leg. Confining them to small spaces makes their pace more choppy and creates a bad habit of turning too tight in both exhibitor and hog.

When you start walking your hog in big laps around a large exercise area, it’s okay to use two whips to stay in control. This will help the pig walk in a straight line with its head held high. Oftentimes, when smaller children have to reach over a pig’s head with a whip to get its head up, they are not tall enough to do so, and so the pig turns into the exhibitor, disrupting its natural forward walking pace.

Another tip that minions hold dear is rewarding good behavior. “If pigs come out and do a great job, even if it’s only 3-4 minutes, they get hung. We don’t wear out our pigs.” Often exhibitors aim to walk their pig for a specific amount of time, rather than just walking them to a point where they know they did well and responded to what the exhibitor has requested from you. A young pig may not endure so much exercise and will start fighting and get tired. This immediately teaches bad habits and leaves room for new problems. A pig that is trained consistently should develop enough stamina to last as long as necessary in the show ring,” Lackey said.

Lackey said the quality of the exercise is more important than the amount of time you walk your pigs each day, and adding exhaustion for both the pig and the kid only makes things worse. So work on your pig until you’re both happy it did a good job, then reward it by putting it back in its pen to prevent these bad habits from forming.

Another thing she really works on with her own kids is proper whip positioning, which can help break the bad habit of a pig running with its head down before it kicks off. The whip should be parallel to the side of the pig’s face or under its chin to keep its head up. And you should never hit your pig hard enough to hear the whip.

“In today’s show ring environment you can’t compete successfully unless your pig walks with its head held high, but it has to be natural. Teaching a pig to drive like that starts all over again. I know our pigs are broke when they confidently and comfortably walk out with their heads held high and respond to the boys without actually having to touch them with the whip,” Lackey said.

Keep it fun

After all, make it fun and make sure everyone involved is patient. If a parent is not a patient person, find a mentor or someone who is patient to coach your young exhibitors. And don’t be afraid to help your children; Remember, it’s easier to break a habit than it is to break one.

“When pigs get frustrated and kids get frustrated, it’s not fun anymore and we’re not productive anymore,” Lackey said. “The key to raising pigs that ride in the ring like rock stars is getting it right from day one, every time you take them out, aiming for positive experiences for both the kids and the pigs and the whole Time to be consistent.”

For more information on feeding your pig and accessories you need for your show pig, visit https://surechamp.com/getting-started-with-show-pigs/.

Post by RingMaster » Tue Aug 17th 2010 06:01pm

Sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) helps keep a pig from stress by reducing the build-up of lactic acid in the muscles. Lactic acid is formed in muscles through anaerobic respiration caused by a lack of oxygen getting to the muscle. This often happens in pigs that are stress positive or stress carriers as their muscles can constantly contract causing stress in a pig. The same thing happens to you or me after a longer period of training. I’ve heard of several commercial manufacturers adding sodium bicarbonate to their pig feed to reduce the occurrence of stress episodes.

I show purebreds… so I have a higher social status than you.

Diet for show pigs can be as simple or as complex as the pig dictates. Unfortunately, there is no way to feed pigs on the way to the show ring and consistently compete at a high level.

Genetic Roadmap

Surroundings

management level

health status

gender (barrow or gilded)

Age

water

Surroundings

Quality show pig feed

receive pigs

Feeding show pigs porridge

Show methods of pig feeding

To have a plan

To support the muscles, feed a high-protein food or topdress, such as B. High Octane® Champion Drive™ with 1 lbs. per day.

There are many factors that affect how a pig is equipped for show. Some of them are: So this article covers the basics. This may come as a shock to some of you, but it takes a lot more than just food for the pig to make its way to Grand Champion. It takes a combination of nutrition, genetics, management and health to get the most out of your show pig project, with each playing an important, equal role. Below we look at some of the things that play a big part in how your show pig responds to the diet. Water is extremely important to how the pig expresses its genetic potential and how feed is used. Water is directly related to feed intake. If you find that your pig is not eating or growing well, look at the water source first. Water should be clean, fresh, and plentiful at all times. If the water is too cold in cool months or too warm in warm months, your pig will not eat properly and will not fully express its genetic roadmap. Make sure your pig has a comfortable home. Your barn or pigsty should be draft-free and dust-free. A coughing pig will have a less than desirable outcome. The pen should be free of objects that could cause injury and affect your pig’s movement and health. All of these things affect how the pig utilizes the feed provided and ultimately how the pig expresses the genetic interaction with the diet are also things that even the best of feeds cannot do. Even the best feed will not increase body length, base width, or bone. Because of the feed, the pig does not grow large at the shoulder tip. Even the best feed does not turn an unhealthy pig into a healthy one. You must choose animals that already have these characteristics. Nutrition unlocks the genetic potential of your show pig project. A great diet will only do so much for little genetic potential. However, poor quality feed can ruin great genetics. If you buy one or more pigs from a pig sale, you should medicate the pig at least 14 days after purchase. Placing pigs in the same airspace as other pigs with a different immune status can have serious consequences if not addressed appropriately. Feeds treated with Carbadox or Denagard are suitable for the intake of newly purchased young pigs. Injectable antibiotics are suitable (ask your local veterinarian). Water-soluble drugs are also applicable. HONOR® Show FIRST WEAN™ 319 or 519 pig feed medicated at 35 grams/ton Denagard is a very good choice for pig intake. This drug provides support for respiratory health and the gut immune system. Remember that muscle is protein and protein is made up of amino acids. So one strategy would be if you are buying a pig that is moderately to slightly muscled you should probably try feeding a pig feed with 20% crude protein like HONOR® Show FIRST WEAN™ 519 until the pig weighs at least 75 pounds the pig, that you bought is heavily muscled, you may want to feed a feed with less crude protein early on, as this will make the movements tight. For very heavily muscled show pigs, HONOR® Show MUSCLE & COVER™ 819 pig feed is a great option once the pig has reached around 70lbs. in body weight. Also remember that every metabolic process costs calories. Lean tissue synthesis, bone growth, skin and hair development all have an energy cost. Energy drives everything. In order to achieve maximum genetic expression, an appropriate level of energy must be fed, either in the complete feed or with an energy supplement such as High Octane® Heavy Weight®. As the pig grows and develops, it may become tight or somewhat “tough” muscular. If or when you notice these signs, it’s a good idea to reduce crude protein, increase food energy, or both. You may have noticed that some people feed oatmeal (porridge) along with their regular show pig feed. It may be a good idea to offer the pig a small amount of oatmeal (4 to 8 ounces/day) with the feed each day to increase the particle size of the overall diet. Although many pigs do very well and never feed oatmeal, it is a personal choice. Environment and management play a major role in pig health and response to feed. Whether you hand feed at the start of the feeding period or feed yourself, it is merely a feed dispensing process. However, hand feeding usually causes the pig to become mellow faster. When the pig associates you with food, it begins to trust you. Pigs are like most creatures, they need to learn that you will not harm them. Self-feeding can also be effective. The most important thing is spending time with your pig, no matter how you choose to deliver the feed. There is no substitute for time spent building a bond and trust between pig and exhibitor. Regardless of how you provide the feed at the beginning of your project, you will need to start hand-feeding at some point during feeding time so your pig will look its best on show day. Finally, have a plan. Modern show pigs usually look their best at around 6 to 6 ½ months of age. So when buying your pigs, choose appropriately matured pigs. Feed with a view of the show ring. From the start, try to imagine what you want your pig to look like on show day. And feed for this purpose. There are many supplements, top dressings and nutritional products that you can use to change your pig’s outcome. Muscle is protein and body condition or body coverage is a layer of fat. Paylean® really isn’t a fundamental problem, so it won’t be covered in this article, other than to say that it’s a tool and not a magic potion. Unhealthy, heavily muscled or stress-positive pigs do not need to be fed Paylean. If you want to feed Paylean High Octane®, Paylean® 900 pig feed is an excellent, well fortified, low inclusion product. Good luck with your Showpig project. Enjoy the learning process along the way. And if you need help… ask. Usually someone is willing to help.

There is no doubt that showmanship can make the difference in your success in the show ring. One of the main principles of a good show is how and where you use your whip on your show pig. It is important that you focus on these four key points:

1. Hold on!

It is important that you have a firm grip on your whip. Use your index finger and thumb to apply pressure. Never hold your whip like a pencil.

2. The “Go Button” is on the side.

Judges like to see your hog move at a good, steady pace, so knowing how to get your hog moving is important. In order to ask your pig to walk, you need to find the Go button, which is between the shoulder and the flank. Never smack your pig on the butt, hocks or head to get it to move. The Go button is on the side.

3. Apply the guidance system.

To make your pig turn around, tap the opposite side you’re asking it to move. Tap the right side of the head to go left and the left side to go right.

4. Cheer up!

After all, to maximize your pigs’ presence in the show ring, you want them to keep their heads up. Use the momentum of your whip under her chin to get her head up. All pigs react differently and practice makes perfect.

Watch as Josh Brockman and our Make Your Own Luck Showman demonstrate how to do your show pig whip.

Click here to watch more of our Mark Your Own Luck videos.

You want to be sure you take every step possible to ensure you make a good impression when showing your hog. That means many things from having the right tools and supplies to caring for your show pig properly, knowing when to start training as often as you can, practicing driving him, having the right registration and health forms – and of course patience.

But when it comes to showing your pig, the most important thing you need to know is how to make sure it obeys your commands and walks the right way. Above all, you must prevent your pig from running away. If your pig runs, it is a clear sign for the judges that his training was inadequate. But how do you stop him from running away? Any tips and tricks to help you get the best results?

It depends on the right pig whip and its correct use

When you show your pig, you know you need to have the right pig whip, and you know you need to use it to show it in the best possible light. Luckily, there are some sensible steps you can take to use your whip so that it follows your commands and doesn’t run away, including the following:

Be careful to hold your whip properly

This may seem like a small dot. However, the way you hold your whip can mean the difference between a pig that does as you ask and one that starts running.

The most important thing is that you hold your whip with a firm grip. You should always hold the whip with your thumb and forefinger extended. This gives you much better control of the whip (and of your show pig). Above all, never hold the whip loosely in your hand, as you might hold a pencil (with the whip between your index and middle fingers).

Use the “go” button to walk your pig at a steady pace

The best way to ensure your pig goes when you want it – and at a steady pace, is by gently tapping the so-called “go button”. But where exactly is the Go button?

The Go button is on your pig’s side, about halfway between its shoulder and flank. You should never slap your pig on the head or behind. Knowing where and how to tap your pig will ensure it runs the way you want it to. After all, you can’t wait until the day you show your pig to get this right – you should start training well in advance of the show and practice as much as possible so that it understands your expectations and responds to all your commands reacted.

Tap your pig on the side of his face to turn him over

During the show you will be expected to show that you can turn your pig as the judges ask you to. The best way to turn your pig over is to gently pat him on the side of his face. If you want him to turn left, tap the right side of his face. If you want him to turn right, gently tap the left side of his face.

Use the whip on your pig’s chin to keep his head up

Judges want your pig to keep their head up at all times – if they don’t, it will leave a bad impression. There is an easy way to do this. Tap your pig on the jaw – if you do this, it will raise its head. How much it takes depends on your pig – you will learn during your practice sessions how and how often to use your whip to ensure your pig goes through his entire show with his head held high.

Be patient with your show pig

Scientific studies show that pigs are remarkably intelligent, even smarter than dogs. This means it’s relatively easy to get your pig to learn and follow your commands. However, it is important that you are patient with your pig. He tries to do what you want him to do, but especially in the early stages of your training, it will take him some time to understand what you want him to do – so be patient. As with dogs, the best rule of thumb is never to scold or punish him for bad behavior, but to reward him for good behavior by petting him and giving him his favorite treats.

Make sure your show pig doesn’t run away

Ensuring that your pig is walking the way you want, engaging the command, holding its head up — and not running — takes a lot of practice and a lot of patience (this is especially true if you have to train a stubborn show pig). . You also need a whip that will simplify training and ensure the best results when showing your pig. Contact us today to learn more about how our quality whips, crops and show accessories can help you make a great impression when showing your hog.

Post by kat3311 » Mon Dec 04, 2017 7:16 pm

I have to recommend Sullivans, I once had a weaver whip that broke after a day’s use. A 39 or 40 inch should be the right length, it all depends on how tall you are and how big the hog is.

“If you can laugh at yourself, you’ll have entertainment for a lifetime.”

My son recently cut his head and was described as “bleeding like a pinned pig”. What is the origin of this phrase?

You probably don’t want to read this if you eat breakfast, especially bacon and eggs.

And you probably already know that the phrase means “bleed profusely.”

According to Oklahoma State’s Ag in the Classroom website and several others, the expression comes from the slaughtering process of stabbing or slitting a pig’s throat to drain the blood.

The Okie website also defined several other pig-related terms:

High on the hog – The best meat is on the top of the hog that rich people ate. Low on the hog are less desirable cuts such as hog feet, chitterlings and greaves.

Step on the bucket – pigs were hung upside down by one foot from a pole called a ‘buchet’ by the French. If the pig’s throat was cut, it would lash out and inevitably kick the bucket as it died.

Let the cat out of the bag – At medieval markets, unsavory traders would sell someone a pig, put it in a bag, and then trade the bag for one with a cat on it.

Pig in a poke – A pig in a poke or maybe a cat. The point is to check what you are buying. And don’t trust medieval merchants.