Showing A Horse In Hand? Trust The Answer

People who ride are automatically at an advantage as handlers at breed shows because they have a feeling for the horse’s reactions to the aids. Many think that a handler just does go-go-gos and flies around the triangle at top speed. It’s not like this. Showing a horse in hand is not about running; it’s about the feeling in your hand – feeling the energy in the horse. It’s easy, but also difficult to teach someone who doesn’t have the skills.

(Photo by Hunter Messineo)

Although a top handler must have the ability to walk, the handler’s ability to teach the horse to stay beside them without being controlled is equally important. I begin by introducing a horse to its handler. You want the two to bond so the horse likes that person and wants to stay with him.

Walking a horse has a different energy than trotting. The horse has to learn to relax at the walk because you’re just walking – it’s not a performance.

Using his voice and a halter, the handler gently teaches the horse to walk alongside him in his own space. As the handler slows, the horse should slow as well. If he accelerates, the horse should accelerate.

For the trot, the energy must be higher. Development doesn’t take long – two or three sessions. It is not necessary to train the horse for half an hour as his posture becomes flat. After the horse understands when the handler wants it to walk, trot, and stand still, the handler can add energy to the presentation. A good handler needs to keep energy levels high and sometimes employ an assistant with a leash or whip to follow them just close enough to get the horse’s attention, but not so close that it annoys the horse and makes it a little agitated . After a while, the horse learns to behave the same way only for the handler.

When it comes time for performances, the handler wants to keep his horse on the go. Horses really do learn what is desired at a show. You want them to have an expression of energy and lightness that is appealing to look at. When entering the arena, standing or trotting, the horse should look alive and alert – beautiful, not sleepy. The help of the dog handler should be discreet and hardly noticeable.

the us Dressage Federation runs handler clinics from time to time and they are worth attending if you plan to show your young horse in-hand.

This article is from the archives of Dressage Today.

To learn more about Scott Hassler, visit HasslerDressage.com.

When you read ads selling horses or someone tells you the size of their horse, they will probably use the word “hands” to express the measurement. For example, a very large horse might be 17 HH. A pony is a horse under 14.2 HH. “HH” or “H” stands for “hands up” or “hands”.

A hand is a measurement of a horse’s height that has been used for several centuries. The measurement can actually be traced back to the ancient Egyptians. A hand is four inches, or roughly the width of an adult male’s hand. However, horses are not measured solely by hands. In some countries and at FEI competitions, horses are measured in centimetres. Ponies, miniature horses, and other small horses can also be measured in centimeters or inches instead of hands.

hands and other measurements

Since one pointer is four inches, partial pointers are expressed as decimal numbers. A horse with 14.2 hands is 14 hands plus 2 inches. The total in inches would be 58 inches: (14 x 4) + 2. A horse can never be said to be 14.5 inches because the number after the decimal point is not a fraction but represents a whole inch. If a horse measures 14.2 1/2 HH, that means it measures two and a half inches across 14 hands.

Horses are measured from the ground just beside and behind a front leg to the withers (shoulders). This is the one part of the horse’s topline that doesn’t change whether it lowers or raises its head or lowers or arches its back. This is the standard place to measure a horse’s height, regardless of what steps (either hands or inches) you use, what country you are in, what discipline you ride, or what breed of horse or pony you are.

Tool

There are a few instruments you can use to measure a horse’s height. The most accurate and easiest method is to use a horse length ruler. This is a tall staff marked with inch measurements, with a horizontal bar sliding up and down the staff. The stick is held beside the horse and the horizontal bar is pushed down until it touches the horse’s withers. Some sticks have a bubble level so you can be sure you are holding the stick level.

Height bands can be purchased inexpensively at feed or accessory stores. The problem with tape measures is that they are light, slack, and difficult to hold tight enough to get an accurate measurement. Someone must hold the buttocks against the ground while another person observes the measurement at the horse’s withers. You cannot put the tape against the horse. It must remain perfectly perpendicular to the ground. Elevation tapes are often printed with a weight tape on the opposite side.

A regular tape measure can also be used to measure height, but it has the same problems as the tape measure. In addition, metal tape measures make rattling noises that sometimes disturb horses, making it difficult to get the horse to stand still for a measurement.

Probably the simplest homemade gauge is a piece of twine attached to a large metal nut or washer. The weight of the metal holds the cord in place while the handler looks at the withers and marks the cord – a magic marker will do the trick here. Then the length is measured from the bottom of the washer to the mark on the thread. Another trick is to use a folding ruler, a piece of lath, or even a whip to make it easier to get a line from the cord to the withers. Simply hold the ruler so it sits on the horse’s withers, parallel to the ground, and note where it meets the tape measure.

how to measure

To measure your horse, stand him up straight on a flat surface. Hold the band or stick perpendicular to the ground and beside the horse and with the highest point of the horse’s withers. Using a suitable measuring stick, lower the stick so that it meets the horse’s withers. Note the measurement. If you can only measure in inches, divide the inches by 4 and calculate the remaining inches. So 62 inches would be 15 hands plus 2 inches or 15.2 HH.

If size is the determining factor in whether your horse competes in horse or pony competitions, you may need to consider horseshoes. Shoes can easily push a “pony” over the official height, and you need to find out if shod ponies are accounted for. If you need a horse of a specific size or need to qualify a horse’s size, you need to know whether the measurement includes shoes or not.

Horses also need to be checked and filed by a veterinarian once or twice a year. Horse teeth never stop growing. They can develop uneven wear that can lead to eating problems. A professional filing will balance them out. Also, have your vet check your horse’s teeth for decay.

horse husbandry. Horses need a clean place where they are protected from the elements. They need a three-sided structure that they can enter at any time. A barn or fully enclosed building is even better. The building offers protection from rain, wind, snow, heat and insects.

You have to keep the building clean by removing manure daily.

In addition to housing, your horse may need additional care during extreme weather. Give them plenty of water when it’s hot outside. Give them minerals like a salt lick during heat waves to prevent dehydration. Cover it with a waterproof horse blanket in cold and wet weather.

Exercise. All horses need regular exercise. They need to be ridden, and they need a paddock to roam about in if they choose. Make sure the pasture has a sturdy fence with no barbed wire. Horses should not be kept in a box for a full day unless recommended by a veterinarian due to an injury.

hoof care. A horse with healthy hooves is a healthy horse. Hoof problems can prevent a horse from moving. Trim a horse’s hooves every month or two. Depending on your horse’s build and activity level, consider horseshoes to keep their hooves in good condition.

10 Lies About Horses You Shouldn’t Believe – by Don Jessop

1. Never look a horse in the eye

This common misconception stems from a very basic and ancient notion that horses are prey animals and for that reason cannot tolerate the peering eyes of a predator. Many beginner trainers and some more advanced trainers adhere to this principle. But they are misguided. You are only a predator if you intend to eat what you are looking at. Horses can easily distinguish between a predator looking for food and a predator looking curious and puzzled. However, horses have trouble understanding the intent of a person who hides their eyes. When you hide your gaze, you often appear sneaky or suspicious. This might be a good strategy for an aggressive dog, but it can have a negative effect on a horse. It doesn’t always have a negative effect, but it can, and that’s something to be aware of.

There is one exception to the “don’t look your horse in the eye” theory: This exception occurs when you first encounter an extremely fearful and shy horse. It’s useful to drop your gaze and energy in those first moments, to show absolutely no body language that could be misconstrued as predatory. But after just a few brief moments, you can lift your gaze and begin to form a genuine connection with curiosity and wonder emanating from your heart, your mind, and your eyes. I’ve never met a horse I couldn’t look into the eyes and share my heart in moments and I’ve met tens of thousands of horses now. It’s your intention that counts, not your eyes, ears, mouth, arms, or feet.

2. Kick to go

With every rule there is an exception, so there may well be times when pressing your heels against your horse isn’t enough and you have to kick your horse to get an answer. This exception is usually in the event of an emergency, e.g. B. when a horse gets stuck in the middle of the road when a car approaches. But in almost all other cases, you shouldn’t be kicking to walk. Simply because it is not elegant! Mastery horsemanship uses techniques that are elegant.

Training a horse to go from a simple, soft, gentle push from the heels or even from the calf muscles is far more elegant. Horses learn to do whatever you repeat and reward, so you can decide what signals to use to ask to leave. Kicking to go is a signal, yes, but it is not desirable for the horse or anyone watching you ride. To prove this point, I want you to look at an old Western film where the actor moves the horse and then compare that to the film Quigley Down Under with Tom Selleck. Watch as he tells his horse to go. Tom hired and was trained by a master for this film. I happen to know because this master (Pat Parelli) was my own teacher for almost fifteen years. I have been fortunate to work and live with Pat and Linda for many years and they will agree. Master Trainers do not train their horse by kicking it.

3. Pull until it stops

The same principle applies here. We were taught a lie that you should pull the reins to stop your horse. The reality is that you will have to pull the reins initially, especially when training young horses, but if you have mastery in mind you will discover that there are other, more elegant ways of stopping your horse. For example, my horse will stop if I slow my breathing and sink slightly in the saddle. Watch a reining performance trainer come to a full gallop and never lift the reins. It is wonderful. It’s elegant. It’s championship. You can also teach your horse to stop without pulling on the reins. In fact, you can decide which signal to use, as any signal will work. Believe it or not, kicking your horse can be a signal to get your horse to stop. I wouldn’t recommend it because it’s counterintuitive and not very elegant, but every signal supported and rewarded and repeated becomes part of your intimate language between you and your horse.

4. Show him who’s boss

Remember when I said there’s always an exception to the rule… this principle still applies. There may be times when you need to show your horse who’s in charge, especially in safety situations. But this concept of domineering alone is a big fat lie because you also need to bond with your horse and show him that you care about his experience more than anyone else on the planet.

I don’t even like the boss analogy when it comes to leadership. In my book, Leadership and Horses, I talk a lot about the models we use to describe our interactions with horses. My favorite model is the teacher-student/model or the parent/child model. These describe a loving, supportive, growth-oriented learning and leadership mode rather than the consequence and pressure model dictated by most boss/employee models.

5. You need a little driving

It’s okay to drive with a bit. But thinking you must have a bit of a drive isn’t accurate thinking…it’s old, militant thinking. In fact, bits were invented in the first place to ensure that any novice rider could hop on a horse and march into war with more control. Imagine you were a war general in centuries past, and imagine putting a dozen greenhorn riders on ill-trained horses that didn’t wear reins, and you’ll be able to follow horses’ reasoning who need dentures. But as with everything horsemanship, there are basic rules and advanced rules. The more advanced, masterful trainers know that you don’t need a bit to communicate with a horse. We no longer have to go to war on horseback, giving you more time to bond and bond and guide your horse to understand more elegant, subtle signals. Look on YouTube, type in the phrase “riding without a bit” and discover hundreds of videos (some good, some not so good) of people riding their horse bareback. When you observe other people… look for elegance and harmony. Those are the signals of the championship.

6. Bits are bad

That too is a lie. You don’t have to use a bit, true, but saying that bits are bad is also an unbalanced perspective typical of natural trainers. Humans are strange creatures. Once we learn one thing, we tend to only see that one thing and everything else is bad or stupid. Then one day we find out that the other thing wasn’t that bad and we switch sides completely. I see that every day. I see traditional riders entering the natural horsemanship industry and choosing to throw away all their past experiences as unhealthy or bad. Much can be learned from tradition and it would be foolish to “throw out the baby with the bathwater”, so to speak.

Bits have value. I don’t like them, I don’t usually use them, but that doesn’t mean they don’t have value. High performance trainers can use the bit as a tool to balance a horse in a complicated maneuver and wean the horse off this tool over time. Even low-performing drivers can benefit a little from it. This allows them to feel more confident in the beginning, then they can learn more advanced training modes over time. The idea behind this paragraph is that accepting a concept as pure truth can be detrimental to progress and communication. The key is to stay open to experience and to ask why someone would use a particular tool without judging that someone or that tool.

7. Horses know everything

In a recent post (one thing you should never do with horses), I describe how horses have the brains (cognitive awareness and emotional strength) of a four-year-old human child. It is an agile brain that quickly adapts to the environment. It’s a brain designed to sense and evade threats, but the horse’s brain’s level of concentration is very similar to that of a young child. Puzzles, detailed memory challenges, and processes often get lost in the context of “preservation-first” thinking. So if you’ve ever heard someone say, “My horse already knows that.” What they really want to say is, “My horse already did that.” But that doesn’t mean that the horse actually remembers the details of the exercise, the sequence of events where, following certain signals, something should happen next.

Whenever I hear someone say, “My horse knows that,” I often respond by asking them to immediately answer this question: What is 15 x 8 equal to? If they don’t respond right away, I jokingly reprimand them for not remembering something they’ve definitely encountered at some point in their lives, and then apologize because nobody likes to be embarrassed like that. Not even horses!

Remember to give your horse some time to process the details, even if they’ve been there before. Keep in mind that their distraction may be high, and while not new to you, there may be a new smell or small noise that triggers thoughts that prevent positive reactions. Don’t compound the problem by assuming your horse knows what to do, which will only lead to frustration and poor leadership.

8. Training a horse requires a professional

That’s like saying parenting requires a pro. Trust me, once you get started, you’ll become professional pretty quickly. I have now helped thousands of students achieve their dreams without sending their horse to a trainer. This is an important part of my business and also my life vision. Important to my business because a large part of my business is teaching people to train their own horses rather than sending the horse to a trainer for 60 days.

I have successfully helped people of all ages and physical abilities, even people in their 70’s, train their own horses with my home study and championship coaching courses.

This work is also important to my life vision because I believe there is an amazing leadership lesson to be learned from the challenge of horse training. My vision is to help horses have a great life around people, but it’s also to help people become the best version of themselves no matter what they choose in life.

Horses are a great vehicle to learn and test your own courage, control, discipline, kindness, communication and more. I believe that anyone who owns a horse should do all of the training themselves long term, even if it means postponing trail riding for a while. In the short term I think it’s wise to learn from a professional, take lessons, ensure you are confident in learning new skills and getting better at handling your horse, but the long term training should always be you!

9. Horses do not experience human emotions

This is perhaps the greatest of all lies. In fact, horses feel and experience every human emotion. They’re sad, they’re afraid of loss, they feel pain, they’re hungry, they feel tension when they need to pee but don’t have time, they’re excited and happy and playful. They feel anger and resentment. you feel everything! True master trainers know this. Science has proven that horses have the emotional and cognitive awareness of a four-year-old human. This kid may not know how to qualify or label an emotion, but you can bet they feel every single emotion on the spectrum. Some emotions come and go quickly, like an outburst of anger, but others persist due to the pressure of circumstances.

Knowing that horses sense all of our emotions can sometimes put people off riding horses, but it doesn’t have to. Horses can still benefit from the exercise and stimulus we offer them because one emotion they also experience is boredom. Imagine you were locked in a small cage as a four-year-old child. You would get bored pretty quickly. Master trainers work with the horse’s emotions to neutralize negative emotions and guide the horse towards calmer, happier emotions. It makes the journey exciting and enriching for horse and human when the trainer notices how horses actually feel about everything.

10. Horses like to be ridden.

That is only partly a lie. Many horses don’t like being ridden at all and only give in because they have to. This can be backed up with sound observational science. But for those special few horses who are lucky enough to have a great friend, leader and trainer like you, they can actually learn to love being ridden. This requires a level of mastery that few people know about, but you now have the opportunity to learn it, starting now! Take a chance with me and check out the Horse Mastery Group. It’s free to watch and it will change your horse’s life!

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Horses are social animals and generally enjoy the company of others. They often form close bonds with their owners.

After spending time together, your horse often shows affection for you. There are many different ways to tell if a horse likes you.

Here are 8 signs a horse likes and trusts you

1. They come to greet you

If a horse likes you, it will often greet you when it hears you coming. They can run to the fence or wait longingly for you at their stable door.

When a horse is dying to say hello to you, it’s his way of showing he likes you. When they come to greet you, they look forward to spending time with you.

2. They nod or whinny for you

Horses often whinny and whinny to people they are familiar with. They often vocalize with a whinny or nod when trying to get the attention of other horses or humans.

If your horse nods when he hears you coming, he is looking forward to seeing you. Nickering is a way for them to greet you as someone they care about.

3. They lay their head on you

When a horse lays his head on you, it’s a sign of trust. They are comfortable around you and like you enough to lay their head on you.

When a horse lays its head on you, it’s a way for it to bond with you and show affection. They let you know that they enjoy being around you. It’s like her way of giving a hug.

4. They nudge you

Although a nudge can mean other things, it is often associated with a horse showing affection towards you. Poking can be the equivalent of a horse hugging or kissing you.

If a horse likes you, it will often nudge you to get your attention. Gentle nudges can be a way for a horse to show love for you. They mean that in addition to their nudge, they will even lick or lip you.

5. They are relaxed around you

When a horse is relaxed around you, it’s a sign that he likes and trusts you. When you see your horse relaxed around you, it shows that he feels safe with you.

Signs that your horse is relaxed around you include things like licking and chewing, bowing his head, letting out a sigh, and cocking his hind leg.

A horse that trusts you will be comfortable enough to relax around you.

When a horse lets you get close to him while lying down, that’s a real show of trust. Horses are vulnerable when lying down. So if they let you come to them lying down, they have a lot of trust and love for you.

6. They groom you back

Grooming is one of the best ways to bond with your horse. When your horse brushes you back, it sees you as a friend.

Horses grooming themselves in the wild not only because it feels good to them, but also because it’s a way to show affection for one another. They will nibble at each other’s withers, back, and neck.

When your horse nibbles on your shoulder or head, it is his way of grooming you. This is a way for them to show you that they like you.

Also check out our guide to the best horse grooming kits.

7. They show you respect

With horses, respect is a sign of trust. If your horse likes you and trusts you, it will respect you.

A horse that trusts you will see you as a leader. They will respect your space and your commands. A horse that likes you will be happy to follow you, which is also a sign of respect.

Some horses even follow their owners. When a horse follows you, they trust you to take care of them. This is how they show you their respect.

8. They breathe on your face

When a horse comes up and breathes your face, it’s the ultimate show of respect and trust. Horses show affection by gently blowing air through each other’s nostrils.

When a horse blows in your face, it’s a sign that he sees you as a loyal companion. Horses will breathe in your face when they see you as part of their family.

It’s one of the best ways horses show their affection for loved ones.

Signs your horse doesn’t respect you

How do you know when your horse is being disrespectful?

When it comes to working with 1,000-pound animals, setting boundaries is important. Certain horse behaviors can be potentially dangerous to their handlers. Horses are not born with the understanding of boundaries and personal space rules that humans have; they must be taught. In order to teach your horse boundaries, you must first be able to recognize when he is exhibiting behavior that needs to be addressed.

What are signs your horse is being disrespectful? I find that a horse’s disrespect often falls into three categories:

Ignore or fight pressure

Ignore your personal space

be aggressive

In this article, I will present common behaviors that fall into all three of these categories. At the outset it is important to remember that in most cases these problems are due to a lack of training. Most horses just need to be taught and occasionally reminded that you have limits. A horse that has not been around people will not understand how to properly behave around them.

**One more thing to consider.** Before considering any behavior your horse is disrespectful, it’s always important to first rule out any health issues. Some of the behaviors I’m going to list today can also occur because of pain or other health issues a horse may be struggling with. The last thing you want to do is correct a horse that just wants to tell you they’re in pain.

Disrespectful Horse Signs: Ignore or fight pressure

Ignoring or fighting pressure largely means the horse is fighting against the aids you are using. We naturally communicate with our horses through pressure; Controlling them uses the pressure of your reins and legs. If you move them over while brushing, you’re putting pressure on their side to get them to step over. If you need to lead her, you can pull the lead rope in a specific direction. To achieve all of this, horses must learn to properly respond to pressure when it is applied.

Frequently seen behavior:

To drag them to a grassy area to graze

refuse to go faster when led

raise their head when you ask them to lower it

do not lift their feet when asked to do so

refuse to go forward

Pulling back the lead rope when tied

refuse to move while you groom them

straining their neck and refusing to move when you ask them to pull away

Why horses do this:

Most of the time, horses fight pressure because they haven’t been trained to respond properly or because they haven’t been rewarded for responding properly. In my personal experience, if the horse is rewarded for the correct response, these problems are resolved very quickly.

Horses can naturally fight pressure as it can limit their ability to fly. For example, a horse that has never been tethered before may find tethering a bit unnerving. Horses are flight animals and it is their natural instinct to run away from anything they perceive as a threat. When they are tied up, their movement is suddenly restricted and they cannot escape when necessary.

Understanding a horse’s natural instincts and how they relate to their behavior allows you to have more empathy and patience with them in training. I always try to think about why my horse is reacting a certain way before I start correcting it.

How to fix it:

Teaching a horse to respond to pressure is simple and easy. It is more important that YOU react correctly when the horse has reacted correctly. The concept of teaching your horse to give in to pressure instead of fighting it is called pressure and release. This means you are applying pressure to ask the horse to do something; When the horse responds correctly, release the pressure. By releasing the pressure, the horse learns the correct reaction.

Let’s apply this to one of our displayed behaviors; Let’s continue by asking a horse to bow its head.

Pressure application: gently pull down on the lead rope or press down on the horse’s poll.

Horse Fights Pressure: The horse braces its neck against the pressure and refuses to lower its head. You gradually increase the pressure you apply.

Correct Response: The horse eventually lowers its nose a little, so you release the pressure immediately.

The most important aspect of pressure and relief is knowing when to relieve pressure. If you just held the pressure even after the horse responded correctly, the horse would never learn what the correct answer was. To learn more about pressure and relief read my article 5 Common Horse Training Mistakes.

Disrespectful Horse Signs: Ignoring your personal space

Frequently seen behavior:

bump into you with their shoulder

walk in front of you on a leash

tilt their head over you when you try to put the bridle on

step on your feet

urges you to feeding time

run right behind you

drop your shoulder toward you as you lunge

Communicating the boundaries of your personal space is important when working with horses. Horses can weigh 10 times more than humans, which can put humans in a dangerous situation if a horse bumps into them, steps on them, or knocks them over. By teaching your horse to respect your personal space, not only are you teaching him where your limits are, you can also help him focus and be more alert instead of easily distracted.

Why horses do this:

Aside from a lack of training, horses often exhibit these behaviors for one of two reasons. 1) They learn that exhibiting these behaviors will either make them unemployed or get what they want faster. 2) They try to get you to avoid them. To understand this, you need to understand a horse’s natural behavior.

First of all, horses are like people; They want to do as little work as possible. If they find something that will help them avoid work, they will do it. If a horse can tilt its head up and over you when you try to put its bridle on, that’s a few minutes without a bit in its mouth. Horses, like humans, are impatient. If they learn that if you huddle them together at feeding time, you’ll give them food faster, they will do it. My horse used to nudge me with its nose after every ride when it wanted to go back to the pasture. 😂

Second, horses are herd animals; They like to know their place in the herd. When you observe two horses for the first time, you will find that they often get into fights over who chases whom first or who can get the other to move first. If a horse can get another horse to move, that horse is in charge. Because of this, it’s only natural for a horse to try the same with you. If the horse can approach and urge you and get you to move away, he’s learning that he now has the ability to control where you’re going, rather than the other way around.

How to fix it:

When it comes to establishing your personal boundaries, the most effective tool you can employ is groundwork. Groundwork is any training you do with your horse on the ground. You can use groundwork to get your horse moving around you and not the other way around. You can also use groundwork to correct behaviors such as: B. if your horse tries to rush you.

Some simple floor exercises that will teach your horse to respect your space are:

Get your horse to move backwards

Release the hindquarters

Move your shoulders

lunging

lateral movement

While groundwork is a very useful tool, I find that many people initially have a hard time grasping the concept behind it. I have created an online course specifically designed to help people understand why they use certain groundwork techniques and how to use these techniques step by step with your horse. If you want to know more, you can check out the online course here.

Disrespectful Horse Signs: Be aggressive

An aggressive horse can quickly make you lose confidence and no longer want to be around horses. Not only that, they can also be very dangerous to you and others. Aggression needs to be nipped in the bud as soon as it shows up, as it can become a much bigger problem and become much more difficult to deal with later.

Frequently seen behavior:

tries to move you away from a feed bucket

Big ears when entering a stable

Load on the pasture

Turn her rear towards you if you want to catch her

kick, hit, attack, or bite (or threaten to do so)

Why horses do this:

There are many reasons why horses can exhibit aggressive behavior. I don’t think horses are inherently aggressive; Most of the time they run away rather than fight. However, if a horse has been through trauma or hasn’t been around people enough to trust them, it may revert to aggressive behavior in a closed area. Obviously these horses need to be treated differently as they need to learn to trust and see that people are good.

Another common reason a horse shows aggression is that it uses it as a fear tactic to finish work or get what it wants. I knew a horse that threatened to kick you, or actually kicked you, every time you tried to catch him in the pasture. It learned that one human coming out to catch it meant work. I also knew a horse that would stick its head out of the box and bite anyone who passed. It wasn’t that the horse wasn’t used to people, it was just that it wanted attention.

How to fix it:

Always use caution when working with an aggressive horse. My number one correction for a horse showing aggression is work. A horse needs to learn that doing the wrong thing is hard. I mentioned the horse that tried to kick you every time you went out to catch it. We ended up putting them in a smaller pen. If we left and she turned her butt at us, we would immediately grab a lunge whip and start plunging her around the pin. She would need to walk around and around at a good pace for at least 10 minutes. Then we would approach them and do the whole thing again. Pretty soon she stopped pedaling.

I did the same with the horse that tried to bite people. I took him out and put him in the aisle on his leash. If someone walked by and they wanted to bite, I immediately started getting them to move and work. He quickly learned not to bite.

It is also important to set these horses up for success. When a horse kicks because it doesn’t want to be caught, it means it has a negative association with being human. Another thing we did with the mare that was always trying to kick is that we started feeding her from the pasture. That’s how she started associating a human who came out to get her with the food.

If you have a horse that is aggressive at feeding time, practice moving it away from an empty feed bucket before you practice moving it away from a full feed bucket. Prepare your horse for success.

I hope you found this article helpful. I have many more articles on understanding horse behavior. Check out the ones below!

PS Save this article to your “Horse Training” board!

Prepare for a horse show

Whether you are showing your horse for the first time in dressage or western pleasure, or are a seasoned competitor in reining or jumping, preparing for a horse show can be a nerve-wracking experience. There’s a lot to do to prepare for a horse show, and there’s so much to think about that you need to bring with you – and usually you’re late on the day of the show, looking for the safety pin at the last minute or your favorite blue halter. And you could end up at the show only to find you forgot something important like your riding boots! Cleaning, packing and organizing your tack and gear for the show is important. Here are some ideas that can help you get more organized and easily prepare for a horse show.

selection of your shipment

Horse shows can (and should!) be fun. It’s an opportunity for you and your horse to show what you’ve learned and get feedback from the judges. Chances are you’re working with a trainer who can help you choose the courses that work best for you, based on your level of experience. You can prepare for a horse show by attending several local shows in advance so you can get a feel for the show environment and also watch some of the courses that interest you. School shows are a great place to start as they are less stressful and the setting tends to be more relaxed. If your horse is new to shows, it’s a good idea to bring them along and not participate in classes – that way they too can get used to what a horse show looks and feels like. You can just let him relax, spend some time in a box and also take him around the showgrounds so you can both watch each other warm up or in the arena. Also, talk to friends and trainers about what shows and locations they recommend – the more you know in advance, the better prepared you’ll be and more likely to have a positive experience.

Does your horse need joint support?

After you decide on a show and set the dates, make a list of things you need to bring to the show. Attached is a PDF that you can print out and tick off as you start packing – this will help you stay organized and take some of the stress out of preparing for the day at the show. Make a note of additional grooming equipment, harness, clothing, first aid supplies – anything you might need during your stay. Note which documents you need to bring with you, e.g. A Coggins test, registration papers, insurance, etc. Also send in your entry fee with the required documentation well in advance of the show date. Remember, the best way to prepare for a horse show is to start planning early!

2-3 days before the show

Pull out the clothes you will be taking to the show and make sure they are clean and well ironed. Look for any holes or tears and check if your shirt is missing any buttons and is still sitting properly. You might want to bring a few choices in case you have a mishap and spill something on your shirt. Hang your clothes on a hanger and place them neatly in a garment bag. Clean and polish your boots too and put them in a boot bag or wrap them in a soft cloth to keep them clean too. For English riders, brush your helmet so the velvet goes the same way – then pack your helmet (or western show hat) in its hard case to keep it clean and intact.

Clean your truck and trailer and check if the trailer lights are working properly. Sweep out the trailer so it is free of manure and if using shavings, place fresh shavings on the side your horse rides. If necessary, also fill up your truck’s tank with gas and connect the trailer to the truck. As a precaution, double check that the chains and hitch are securely fastened.

The day before the show

This is the time when you want to give your horse a bath with a good, quality shampoo and conditioner specifically formulated for horses. Use a soft natural sponge when bathing your horse as it tends to hold more water. Work one section at a time from the front of your horse to the back and top to bottom. When hosing your horse, hoist from front to back so you don’t accidentally squirt in his face. Invest a little more time and care in your horse’s mane and tail and add extra conditioner for a soft, smooth shine. Rinse all soap out of his mane, tail and fur as soap residue could make his hair look dry and dull. Use a mane and tail detangler to get rid of any knots or tangles and when combing his mane and tail, start at the ends and work your way up. After bathing, let it dry completely and use a sweat scraper to remove the excess water. Once you’re done grooming him, you can throw him a light sheet and tuck his tail in a tail pouch so hopefully he can stay clean and dirt-free. If he’s wearing white stockings, you might want to wrap his legs in stand-up wraps as well.

If you decide to use clippers on your horse’s ears or whiskers, use clean, sharp clipper blades and make sure your clippers are in good condition so you can get the best, smoothest results. Also, check the blades often as they can get hot quickly and use a cutting fluid on the blades if necessary.

Clean and polish saddle and tack with saddle soap and use leather conditioner. Polish all silver on the saddle and bridle with silver polish and buff off excess polish to keep it shiny and not dull. When you’re done, pack your accessories into padded bags and load them into your trailer. Remember – no matter how small the show, it is respectful to the judges and organizers to prepare for a horse show by having a clean bridle, a clean horse and well-fitting clothing.

Pack as much as possible into your truck and trailer ahead of time so you don’t have to worry as much about show day. Fill the hay net or feed bin in the trailer with fresh hay to keep your horse occupied while you drive. If your horse wears slings or travel boots when traveling, prepare them in advance so they are ready to go. When you stock up your horse for the journey, brush it clean, fold it up and lay it out for easy laying on your horse in the morning. Pack yourself some drinks and light snacks for the show – it’s easy to get busy and forget to eat and drink plenty of water!

At the show

It’s always a good idea to get to the show early so you have plenty of time to get organized, unpack your gear, and set up your booth. Once you arrive, unload your horse from the trailer and make him comfortable in his box with fresh bedding, plenty of water and some hay. Now take some time to familiarize yourself with the layout of the site, locating the main show office, warm-up areas and show rings. If there is an attending veterinarian or farrier, it is good to know where they are based. Once you have found the main office, collect your show number and hand in all the necessary documentation such as coggins, registration papers, etc.

Nervous horse? – It could be a nutrient deficiency

Once you’ve settled in, you can now groom and harness your horse, giving you plenty of time to warm up and get used to the settings. Some disciplines have strict rules and regulations regarding equipment, so read your rule book carefully or ask your coach what equipment is considered “legal” for the show pen. Check out the show schedule and keep an eye out for changes – with all the work that has gone into preparing for a horse show, the last thing you want is to miss your class! Finally, just before class begins, give your horse a final wipe with a clean cloth. Use a damp towel to wipe dirt from his ears and nostrils. Brush his mane and tail, make sure your shirt is tucked in, and let’s go!

It’s show time

The judges will be watching you as soon as you enter the arena, so you must point from the moment you enter the arena and point until you exit the arena. Try to relax and consider it an enjoyable learning experience. This is your chance to show off what you’ve learned so far, and then you can see what you need to work on for your next show. Remember to breathe and ride with complete confidence. The more you can relax and stay loose, the better you will drive and feel more confident. Most importantly, remember to smile and have a good time!

Below are some things you might want to bring with you when going to a horse show (downloadable PDF is also attached).

TRAVEL ITEMS

☐ Shipping boots or leg wraps

☐ Truck and trailer registration

☐ Halters/Leashes

☐ Spare wheel

☐ Tail bag/wrap

☐ Jack

☐ Hay net with lots of hay

☐ Trailer Block

☐ Sufficient stored water for horse(s); Bucket

☐ Jump leads/spare fuses

☐ Flashlight/Battery/Emergency Flares

PAPERWORK

☐ Original or copy of the registration papers

☐ Club membership card

☐ Coggins Test Certification

☐ Map to show terrain

☐ Health Examination Certificate

☐ Show information

☐ Gelding certificate

☐ Emergency/vet phone numbers

☐ Proof of Ownership

☐ Rule Book

☐ Amateur or non-professional map

☐ Test booklet or pattern

☐ Cash/Credit Cards/ID

SET UP STALL/TACK ROOM

☐ chips

☐ Pliers

☐ Buckets (water, food, washing)

☐ Hammering

☐ Barn nameplate with emergency number #

☐ Stapler

☐ Pedestal fans

☐ Screwdriver

☐ Wheelbarrow

☐ Linger twine

☐ Pitchfork

☐ Tape

☐ Broom

☐ Cable ties

☐ Hose

☐ Extension cord

☐ Hook for hanging bridles and halters

☐ Locks

☐ Saddle racks

NUTS

☐ Bridle (training and show)

☐ Extra pair of reins

☐ Saddles

☐ Additional stirrup leathers

☐ Saddle pads (training and show)

☐ Additional strap or girth

☐ Martingale/breastplate

☐ Replacement Chicago Screws

☐ Cavesson

☐ Leather hole punch

☐ Protective boots/wraps

☐ Saddle covers

☐ Show cool box/blanket

☐ Lunging line/whip

☐ Fly mask/sheet

MAINTENANCE

☐ Saddle soap/leather cleaner

☐ Silver Polish

☐ Sponges

☐ Small bucket

☐ Washcloths & towels

☐ Paper towels

☐ Toothbrush

FOR YOUR HORSE

☐ Hay

☐ Supplements

☐ water

☐ Treats

☐ Grain

CARE ACCESSORIES

☐ Weeder

☐ Sponges

☐ Body brushes

☐ Weld scratches

☐ Mane and Tail Brush

☐ Towels for drying the horse

☐ Hoof pick

☐ Fly spray

☐ Shampoo & Conditioner

☐ Water in a spray bottle

☐ Mane and tail detangler

☐ Cordless clippers

☐ Gloss enhancer

☐ Braiding rubber bands

☐ Hoof care

☐ Grooming bag

☐ Baby powder or cornstarch

FOR HER

☐ Pants (jeans/western show pants/breeches)

☐ Baseball Cap

☐ Shirt (Western shirt/Slinky/English competition shirt)

☐ Sunglasses

☐ Helmet or hat (check your club’s rules)

☐ Additional set of comfortable clothes and shoes

☐ Coat, jacket or vest

☐ Chap

☐ Nutritious snacks: fruit, sandwiches, energy bars

☐ Paper cups and plates/cutlery

☐ Boots & Boot Trains

☐ Folding chairs

☐ Boot socks

☐ Mobile phone

☐ Belt/buckle

☐ Toiletries

☐ Hairnets/Hairbrush/Hairspray

☐ Safety pins and sewing kit

☐ Gloves

☐ Boot polish

☐ Spurs

☐ Garment bag

☐ Sunscreen/Lip Balm

☐ Mirror

FIRST AID KIT (for you and your horse)

☐ Fever thermometer

☐ Cotton wrap

☐ Betadine

☐ Scissors

☐ Triple antibiotic ointment

☐ Ice Pack

☐ Vetwrap

☐ Plaster

☐ Non-stick gauze pads

☐ Aspirin

☐ Elastic tape

☐ Insect protection for you

☐ Mobile Phone & Charger

☐ Garbage bags

☐ Batteries

☐ Wet wipes

☐ Kleenex

The following article was inspired by a rider who told me, “I have a wonderful, talented Thoroughbred. We can work at home on the second and third levels, but when we compete we hardly get through a first level exam. The missing link seems to be relaxation. My horse is off track and we seem to be feeding each other on the tension. How does a normally tense person learn to relax?

This rider is right when she thinks relaxation is her priority. When you are tense, your work may not be of the same quality as when you are relaxed. This applies to both horses and riders. Sure, a certain adrenaline rush is normal and even desirable. But if you’re so tense that you feel paralyzed, you have a problem. Here are some tips to help you relax at shows.

1. First, try to figure out why shows make you so nervous. Do you worry about what people think of you? Did you put unrealistic pressure on yourself to win? Are you afraid of not living up to the expectations of others? If things like this make you nervous, focus on “performance goals” rather than “outcome goals.” In other words, instead of having a goal of getting 65% or getting in the top 3, set a new goal that reflects your effort and not the result. For example, how about sitting gracefully and still, remembering to breathe, or maintaining a metronome-like rhythm for an entire test?

3. Stage some dress rehearsals. drive to neighboring farms; Take your horse off the trailer, warm up and do an exercise test. Do this often enough that going to a new place and “performing” becomes old hat for both of you.

It’s even a good idea to braid and dress up your show attire to simulate a competition. I remember one horse warming up beautifully, but as soon as I walked around the ring it became tense. I didn’t think I was tensing it, but I would keep “losing” it between warm-up and the competition arena.

I finally found out that I had never worn my long-tailed Shadbelly jacket during the warm-up. When I finally pulled my coat on, the tails brushed his sides and he caught a glimpse of them moving out of the corner of his eye. These new sensations frightened him. So I pinned a large bath towel to the back of the saddle pad for several weeks. As he moved, the towel flapped against his body and he could see it waving. He soon got used to it and our problem went away.

It’s even a good idea to braid and dress up your show attire to simulate a competition. I remember one horse warming up beautifully, but as soon as I walked around the ring it became tense. I didn’t think I was tensing it, but I would keep “losing” it between warm-up and the competition arena. I finally found out that I had never worn my long-tailed Shadbelly jacket during the warm-up. When I finally pulled my coat on, the tails brushed his sides and he caught a glimpse of them moving out of the corner of his eye. These new sensations frightened him. So I pinned a large bath towel to the back of the saddle pad for several weeks. As he moved, the towel flapped against his body and he could see it waving. He soon got used to it and our problem went away. 4. Use humor to relieve tension. Go to shows with friends that get silly and make you laugh. The less intense you are, the more fun you will have. Walk around the arena and as you pass the judge think, “Hey baby! Hear the bell and softly say, “Oh, Yippie! My turn!” Come down the center line, see the judge sitting in the trailer, and imagine that you’re going to flip up the tailgate so she can’t see you. Do whatever helps relieve tension.

5. Think about what happens to you physically when you are tense. Muscles become tense while breathing and heart rate increase. The good news is that with a little work, you can regulate all of these reactions.

Let’s look at muscle tension first. Understand that the more you tense a muscle, the more it relaxes when you let go. To learn the feeling of muscle relaxation, sit in a chair and contract every muscle in your body. Hold the tension until your body trembles. Then let go and feel yourself sink heavily into your chair.

Now go through this process, starting with your head and working your way down to your feet, section by section. Each time you release tension in a muscle group, anchor that feeling of deep relaxation by saying the words “release.” Finally, you can scan your body for tight spots while driving. “Talk” to this area with your cues. For example, say out loud: “Neck – let go”. Wrists – leg loose.” “Legs – let go.”

Let’s look at muscle tension first. Understand that the more you tense a muscle, the more it relaxes when you let go. To learn the feeling of muscle relaxation, sit in a chair and contract every muscle in your body. Hold the tension until your body trembles. Then let go and feel yourself sink heavily into your chair. Now go through this process, starting with your head and working your way down to your feet, section by section. Each time you release tension in a muscle group, anchor that feeling of deep relaxation by saying the words “release.” Finally, you can scan your body for tight spots while driving. “Talk” to this area with your cues. For example, say out loud: “Neck – let go”. Wrists – leg go.” “Legs – let go.” 6. Now let’s talk about breathing. Usually, when you are tense, your breathing becomes faster and shallower. You may even find yourself holding your breath occasionally. Rest assured that you are transferring your tension to your horse.

So practice deep breathing. As you breathe in through your nose, keep your shoulders down and let your stomach “fat”. As you exhale through your mouth, feel your seat lower into the saddle, allowing you to “dissolve” into your horse’s body. Consciously breathe like this when you first mount, during each break, and when walking around outside of the arena. In fact, one of your performance goals can be to take deep breaths in every corner.

So practice deep breathing. As you breathe in through your nose, keep your shoulders down and let your stomach “fat”. As you exhale through your mouth, feel your seat lower into the saddle, allowing you to “dissolve” into your horse’s body. Consciously breathe like this when you first mount, during each break, and when walking around outside of the arena. In fact, one of your performance goals can be to take deep breaths in every corner. 7. You can also train yourself to regulate your heart rate using the load and recovery cycle that occurs during exercise. Go for a twenty minute walk and regularly increase your heart rate by walking faster or even jogging for 10-30 seconds. Each time you slow to a comfortable walk and feel your heart rate and breathing return to normal, ANCHOR that feeling to a specific cue. Choose a cue that is easy for you to use while riding. For example, clear your throat, touch your thumb with your index finger, or pound your fists together. Then, when shows make you feel tense, you can use your cue to slow your heart rate because you’ve trained yourself to do it.

8. Know your test (history, pattern) like the back of your hand. This way you can ride your horse instead of riding the exam. You shouldn’t think; “Now I make a circle, and then I give the leg, and then I extend diagonally.”

If you’re focused on where to go next, you can’t focus on what your horse needs.

I know I really “own” my test when I can pick any point in the test and know what movement comes BEFORE. So I ask myself, “What comes before stopping at A?” or “What comes before extending from M to K?”

You’re not alone. Everyone gets tense when they compete. Contrary to popular belief, even pros are not immune to sweaty palms and rubbery legs. But the exciting thing is that you can learn to deal with your fear so that you can still do your job well and with joy. All you need are some handy tools in your toolbox.

Tired of complicated and confusing training techniques? Are you frustrated with negative emotions like fear and lack of confidence? Would you like to be coached by a three times Olympic trainer? Find out how by going to janesavoie.com

One week before the tournament:

Make a list; check it twice.

Write down tack, grooming gear, clothing, first aid supplies, and other items you need to pack for the horse show. Don’t forget a hose, food and water buckets, pitchfork, registration and health papers, silver polish and rags, workout gear, sunscreen, and electrolytes (or flavoring) for water.

1 to 2 days before the tournament:

arrive early

Give yourself and your horse a chance to relax and adjust to your new surroundings. For a multi-day event, allow a day or two ahead of time to prepare his stand, set up your tack room, check in at the show office, etc. If you’re attending a one-day event, arrive at least 2-3 hours early to give your horse plenty of time to explore the show grounds and settle in before your first class.

One day before the tournament:

1. Go ahead and nurture.

Bathe, clip and tie/braid your horse for one less thing to do on the morning of the show. Then put on his blanket or a sheet and a tail bag to keep him clean. Also, pull a slinky down his mane to keep your ribbons/braids ready for show.

2. Get him used to the arena.

Take time to ride your horse in the show enclosure before your lesson to get used to the sights and sounds. Perform a familiar exercise routine to help him relax. Incorporate speed transitions and direction changes to draw his attention to you and take away his freshness. Ride in the center of the arena where there are fewer distractions. Once he’s relaxed and responsive, gradually work your way to the rail as a reward. Through repetition, he will soon learn that the railing is a place of relaxation that eliminates acidic behavior.

Two to three hours before class:

Feed your horse.

Give him his ration for about an hour before saddling and warming him up (see below) to give him enough time to finish his meal. (If you interrupted his mealtime, he might vent his resentment when you ride him.)

Other option:

If your class coincides with your horse’s normal feeding schedule, give him some grain or hay to eat beforehand. After class, cool him down, remove his bridle and let him eat his normal ration.

1.5 to 2 hours before class:

catch-up time.

This should give you plenty of time to groom your horse, gear it up, and put on your show outfit without having to rush. There is also time for a suitable warm-up session.

45 minutes to 1 hour before class:

1. Chilling.

Take a moment to relax physically and mentally. Do breathing exercises and mental imagery, listen to soothing music, or go for a little walk. When you are stressed, you are likely to share your tense feelings with your horse.

2. Warm up slowly.

During your warm-up sessions, slow down your hand and body movements and focus on doing the basics perfectly. For example, practice keeping your horse perfectly straight between your reins at the walk, or work on feeling the two-beat rhythm of his work and moving in time with him. Doing the basics will help you relax and help your horse adjust to you. During this time, also practice any sports psychology techniques you’ve learned to calm your nerves and focus. However, do not train or school your horse during your warm-up sessions or introduce anything new; both could increase your horse’s anxiety.

During your lesson:

Relax, do your best and above all have fun! Don’t think of showing as a life or death situation, but as a fun learning experience.

Kelly and his wife Marnie train and exhibit world-class western recreational horses and coach a select group of amateurs from their Franktown, Colorado training facility.

This article first appeared in the December 2000 issue of Horse & Rider magazine.

Uprooting and moving can be stressful enough for a human who can quantify the reasons behind it, but moving your horse can be a whole different ball game and even more stressful.

So how do you successfully introduce your horse to a new farm and new friends? Coach Melanie Watson has some helpful advice.

“I think in this scenario it’s important to give your horse a chance to explore his new environment on his own,” says Melanie. “Rather than house him in places like a barn or field, either let him loose in his new yard (if that’s safe) or, if that’s not possible, lead him around on a loose rope and let him explore in his.” at your own pace and talk to potential field mates through the stable doors.

“Watch his movements closely and see if he’s particularly fond of a particular horse. When it comes time to evict him make sure he has a few friends, more than two is preferable lest he become too attached or obsessed with just one friend. Also, try to line up and invite in groups or pairs to avoid separation anxiety. If you’re initially worried about driving them all out together, lead them over the fence first before letting them out into the field together.

“Bring your horse to school and let them explore it there too. It is important not to work it there first, but to have a good look at it. By giving him freedom in a relaxed environment without pressure, he should find it easier to accept new places in the future.”

Keep him calm during a change

With any change in routine, it’s important to help your horse stay calm and relaxed. Here are six top tips to remember:

Introduce any type of change in your horse’s routine gradually

Be alert to new people and horses entering your horse’s life

Be flexible – make sure you are willing to adjust your goals or schedule to suit your horse

Make sure your horse is never alone in times of change – let him keep his herd mentality

Consult your veterinarian and physical therapist for advice if you’re thinking of changing his driving routine

Invest in quality horse toys to keep his mind active and engaged

More about our expert

Instinctive horse trainer Melanie Watson was trained by the Spanish Riding School in Vienna, where she was responsible for dressage horses, training riders in riding schools, riding horses, caring for broodmares and learning herd and infant psychology and behavior. In 1985 she set up her own business in Skidby and now works with equine veterinarians, physical therapists, chiropractors and horse insurance companies to assess horses with problems. For more information visit: www.instinctivehorsetraining.co.uk

However, this need not be the case and each horse should be judged on its individual performance. Highly bred tournament horses and thoroughbreds often do not need shearing. Their fur can be so fine that it hardly seems to change from winter to summer fur.

Most horses living in Britain sport some type of winter coat, with native and heavier breeds growing a thick coat as nature intended. It is often difficult to get the best result in these species as regrowth in natives can be difficult and unpredictable.

The timing of shearing these guys is paramount to ensure they walk into the ring with a shiny summer coat. The only way to properly gauge this is to know your horse and how his coat will react during the winter months and then be able to time it accordingly for the final clip. Depending on the color and coat condition, this can be between the end of January and even April.

For example, our native Welsh ponies often need to be clipped into February to give the coat time to come through without showing any signs of lines. Darker colors can sometimes be ready a few weeks later. Shetland, Exmoor and Dartmoor ponies, when wintered and double coated, need careful timing and should receive their final clip in early January to allow the coat’s natural color to grow through.

Turning a new horse into an established herd for the first time can be a daunting prospect. But there are many ways you can make it less stressful for the horses and people involved. Equine behaviorist Justine Harrison explains how to make the process as smooth and injury-free as possible.

Whether you are bringing home a new horse or bringing it to a new farm, it must eventually be introduced to new horses in the field. So what should you consider beforehand and how can you prepare to make the experience a good one?

“There is an increased risk of aggression when introducing a new horse into an existing herd, so it’s important to manage the introductions and reduce the risk of injury,” advises equine behaviorist Justine Harrison. “The entire herd will be greatly affected by the arrival of a new horse, so it is important to ensure all horses are physically healthy – healthy, up to date with vaccinations and free from contagious diseases.”

Quarantine new horses

To prevent the spread of disease, it is best to quarantine the new horse (to keep it away from other horses) for at least ten days. Newcomers should always be able to see other horses, even when isolated.

Learn more about how to spot the signs of a weak horse.

Leave enough space

Another consideration is how big the field is and whether there is enough space. There should be at least one hectare of space per horse.

“Horses will fight for limited resources (also called resource conservation) so maximize available resources such as space, feed, gate, water troughs and shelter,” explains Justine. “Think of the space available for a horse to escape others and possible escape routes so you can safely remove horses if something goes wrong.”

Watch for subtle signs that your horse may be injured and make sure your equine first aid kit is stocked just in case.

What to do when a new horse arrives?

Explore your new field together. If you can, remove the resident horses from the space where your new horse will live and lead your horse across the new space by the hand. Walk along the fence and show them the water trough and all the feeding stations. You can then let them go to explore the area on their own. This is a great way to help them settle in without the added pressure of socializing with a new herd.

If you can, remove the resident horses from the space where your new horse will live and lead your horse across the new space by the hand. Walk along the fence and show them the water trough and all the feeding stations. You can then let them go to explore the area on their own. This is a great way to help them settle in without the added pressure of socializing with a new herd. Introductions begin at the weekend. Begin the show when all the owners are there to keep an eye on things and move their horses if necessary.

Begin the show when all the owners are there to keep an eye on things and move their horses if necessary. Insert over the fence first. Driving out newcomers to an adjacent field for the first few days allows the horses to meet safely across the fence. Make sure they’re all fed to reduce any diet-related anxiety.

Driving out newcomers to an adjacent field for the first few days allows the horses to meet safely across the fence. Make sure they’re all fed to reduce any diet-related anxiety. Start with a buddy. Do you have a friendly, well-socialized horse in the herd that you might want to date first? If so, bring the two into the field together and give them time to make friends.

Do you have a friendly, well-socialized horse in the herd that you might want to date first? If so, bring the two into the field together and give them time to make friends. Gradually bring the herd back. If possible, lead a herd member or two out into the field every few days.

If possible, lead a herd member or two out into the field every few days. Watch the horses interact. Ideally, wait until the horses are happily grazing side by side on either side of the fence or grooming each other before grouping them together. You can use a temporary double fence and then take a line down as the next step in the introduction process.

Ideally, wait until the horses are happily grazing side by side on either side of the fence or grooming each other before grouping them together. You can use a temporary double fence and then take a line down as the next step in the introduction process. Watch out for injuries. Once your horse is in the new herd, keep an eye out for new injuries like bites, kicks, cuts, sniffles, swelling, and lameness, as well as unusual behavior like lethargy and anxiety. Watch out for horses that won’t eat or a horse that keeps away from the others.

“With each introduction, the horses will likely examine the newcomer, squeak, get into position and run around — that’s normal,” says Justine. “If there is evidence of fighting or someone is being chased repeatedly, you may need to remove the new horse and reconsider the arrangement.”

For more information, see our guides to reading horse behavior and horse body language.

If the horses are kept indoors for some time each day, they can repeat the induction process to some degree each time they are left out for a few days. They should calm down after a few days, but keep an eye on their progress.

Combine horses

Keep individual temperaments in mind when considering which horses to put together. Study your group and note how each horse responds to new members, and perhaps remove certain members until the dynamic settles.

“The phased induction process should work for mares, geldings and mixed sex groups,” adds Justine. “However, if you have a gelding that has been late trimmed, who can be sexually aggressive and perhaps aggressively guarding flocks or mares, that needs to be considered. Consider if this horse could be kept in a smaller group to reduce the risk of injury or continued unrest within the herd.”

Why Horses Are Measured in Hands: Guide to Horse Hand Units

Why are horses measured in hands?

Over the last several thousand years, the units of measurement have changed, except when it comes to measuring horses. Horses are described using the “hands” unit of measurement, which has not changed throughout history according to the ancient descriptions of measuring horses.

Why are horses measured in hands? Thousands of years ago, tape measures (or a metric system) did not exist. People needed a way to measure their mounts for sale and trade, so they used a unit of measurement they always carried with them – their hands. This unit of measurement was standardized in the 1500s as one hand equals four inches and has been used ever since.

Read on for a history of the hand measurement and how to measure your own horse.

A History of Using Hands to Measure Horses

The ancient Egyptians used a unit of measure called cubits, which is one of the earliest forms of measurement that we have recorded. Cubits were a man’s arm’s length, from the elbow to the tip of the middle finger. As a simple, understandable practice, ancient societies used parts of their bodies to measure things. There are records of Egyptians using their hands or the distance from their thumb to little finger to measure horses for trading purposes, whence the unity of the hands probably originated.

Of course, this is not an entirely accurate way of representing size, as every man’s hands are a different size. This was a well-known problem, which is why King Henry VIII standardized the hand to exactly 4 inches in the 15th century, which is what we still use today to measure a horse’s size.

How to measure a horse in the hands

While many experienced riders can guess the size of a horse’s hands with a degree of accuracy, it is important to properly measure your horse for registration, showing, sport and sale. So how do you measure your horse by the hands?

Where you can measure your horse for size

A horse is measured from the ground to the withers or shoulders. This is the most stable point of the horse’s body. It would be impossible to measure a horse from ground to crown as the horse’s head is movable, meaning that a height measured to the crown can change as the horse raises or lowers its head.

The withers is the horse’s highest “resting” point. For example, when a horse is nose to the ground, the withers is the highest point on the horse’s body.

When you’re ready to measure your horse, get him on a flat floor so he’s standing on a level surface, which will add more accuracy to your measurement.

Measuring tools for horses

You can use a tape measure to measure your horse, but handling both your horse and a tape measure can be difficult. The easiest way to measure your horse is with a measuring stick, which you can buy online or at any supply store. Measuring sticks for horses are rigid and have a bar at the top that can slide up or down. The purpose of the bar is to place it on top of the withers – the bar stays in place to “mark” your measurement. Measuring sticks may also have inches and other units marked for easy conversion if you want to know how many inches or centimeters your horse is standing.

Once you have your horse on level ground, tethered or held by you, place the measuring stick as close to the front of the withers as possible. Once in position, slide the bar up and rest it on the withers. Where it rests is your measure – that’s how tall your horse is.

For a full breakdown of how to measure a horse’s hands, see my article How to Measure a Horse’s Height (Step by Step with Pictures).

Horse/pony height measurements

A pony is not just a small or baby horse – there are certain size restrictions that a small horse must meet in order to be considered a pony. A horse measuring 14.2 hands high or less is considered a pony. If a horse measures more than 14.2 hands, it is a horse.

Does everyone measure horses in hands?

Hands are the proper unit of measurement for horses in most English speaking countries, however some European countries use meters to measure horses in addition to the Federal Equestrian International (FEI). Australia, Canada, the United States, Ireland, and the United Kingdom are some examples of countries that use hands for horse measurement.

Are hands used to measure animals other than horses?

Interestingly, the hands unit is not used to measure animals other than horses. Why did we switch to different units of measurement for everything else but still use hands to measure horses? Since nothing else is measured that way, and there are tools today that make measuring in any form an easy task, it is only fair to assume that we still use hands to measure horses today, simply by tradition. Horsemanship is a sport steeped in tradition and we will probably still be measuring horses by hand in a few thousand years!

Are hands fractionated?

Horses don’t grow in 4 inch increments, so you will see a horse described as having “15.1” hands or “16.2” hands. These are not traditional decimals. For example, a horse with 16.5 hands is not referred to as “16.5” hands. The number after the dot is inches. This means that a horse with 16.5 hands is written as “16.2” hands (literally: 16 hands plus 2 inches). A 15.1 hand horse has a measurement of 15 hands plus 1 inch. Since each hand is 4 inches, you will not see a horse measured as “15.4” or “15.6” hands since a horse measuring 15 hands plus 4 inches is recorded as 16 hands.

Horse measurement terminology

Most riders will not refer to a horse as a “sixteen-point-two” handhorse, rather you will hear “sixteen-two” or “fifteen-two.” You may even hear this as a noun, as in “we have a sixteen-two available at auction”. Speaking of technical terms – the “hh” after the unit of measurement stands for “hands high”. In writing, a horse is measured “16.2 hh” which means 16.2 “hands high”.

What is the largest horse breed?

There are hundreds of horse breeds in the world, but the Shire is, on average, the largest horse breed. Shire stallions must measure at least 17hh to be registered as Shire, while the largest registered Shire in the 19th century was measured at 21.25 hands (and weighed 3,360 pounds!).

Draft horse breeds are the largest in the horse world and include the Shire, Clydesdale, Belgian and Percheron. Draft horses are workhorses and are used to pull heavy loads, so strength and size play a big part in their use. Draft horses can be ridden; However, they often don’t have the stamina or athleticism of other lightweight horse breeds.

Would you like to learn more about draft horses? Check out my article Top 8 Largest Horses and Horse Breeds (with pictures).

What is the smallest horse breed?

The smallest horse breed in the world is the Falabella, which averages 6 to 7 hands tall, or 21 to 34 inches (measurements of miniature horses are often given in inches because of their small stature). Interestingly, a Falabella’s body is proportioned like that of a horse and not like that of a typical pony.

The smallest known horse, a pygmy miniature horse, was 17 inches tall, or 4 hands high, and weighed only 57 pounds. She was born in 2001 and was 17 years old. Her name was Thumbelina.

Average height of a horse

What is the average size of a horse? This varies greatly depending on the breed. The average mustang or wild horse is 14 to 15 hands tall. Thoroughbreds bred for racing measure 15.2 to 17 hands on average, while the Clydesdale, a common draft horse breed, measures 16 to 18 hands high. American Quarter Horses have a wider range of “normal,” typically measuring anywhere from 14 to 16 hands tall.

Best height for a riding horse

When deciding what size horse is best for riding, it is important to consider the size of the rider. You’ll hear differing opinions on how much weight a horse can carry, but most agree that it’s between 10% and 20% of the horse’s own body weight (although 20% is rather high). For example, a healthy 16 hh Quarter Horse that weighs 1300 pounds and in its prime can safely carry a rider up to 130 pounds to 250 pounds. Most riding horses will be between 14.2 and 17h, although smaller riders and children can safely ride smaller sized ponies.

Hands: A unit of measurement that stays here

As previously mentioned, the world of equestrian sport is a deeply traditional world and Unity of Hands is not likely to be phased out any time soon. Hands are an ancient and practical way of measuring horses, they have been used for thousands of years and can continue to be used for centuries to come.

To learn more about what horse size you need, visit my article What Horse Size Do I Need: A Beginner’s Guide.

PS Save this to your “Horse Care” board!

One of the strangest aspects of the horse world is that horses are measured in hands, an archaic unit not used for anything else.

What is a “hand”?

A hand is four inches tall, and a horse that is sixteen hands and two inches tall is described as “16.2 hh.”

Sometimes this number even becomes a noun, calling a horse of the same size “a sixteen-two.” They are measured to the withers, the highest point over the horse’s shoulder that is not moving.

The hand is a four-base measurement system. If you measured a horse in inches, 64.8 inches would not be described as 16.5 or sixteen and a half hands, but as 16.2, while 68 inches would be 17 hh and not 16.4. To keep it simple, fractions are rounded up, so you wouldn’t end up with a number like 16.2-and-a-half.

Why are horses measured in “hands”?

But why are horses measured in hands? A 4-inch hand is unsurprisingly about the width of a man’s hand, with or without a thumb, a unit of length that can be traced back to the ancient Egyptians. They have the earliest recorded standardized system of measurement, with a system based on the royal cubit, the length of a man’s arm from the elbow to the tip of the middle finger.

Cubits are divided into seven palms, each about 75 cm long.

The palm, or hand, appears in texts from ancient Israel, Greece, and Rome, and continued to be used throughout Europe through the Middle Ages, but varied from city to city.

The English palm or hand breath was about three inches or 7.61 cm long but was confused with hand and was described as both a fist and a palm. Henry VIII standardized the hand at four inches in 1541.

The hand remains the primary unit for measuring horses in Britain, the United States, Canada, Australia, Ireland, South Africa and India, while most European countries and the FEI use the meter and centimeter. But Metric is making some headway in the UK, with British Showjumping saying it is using it for continuity with the FEI.

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No one really knows why some places stuck to the outdated measurement system (although it’s worth noting that the other countries that still use hands were colonized by Britain).

Horse historian Katrin Boniface says: “It’s a very practical way of measuring livestock in the field and of course a whole infrastructure of everything from horse trading to showing classes has developed around certain measurements.”

However, no historical sources offer much insight as to why some countries continued to use hands other than ‘tradition’, and humans are creatures of habit and pass on what they have learned.

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Horses come in all shapes and sizes, and you’ll find that their bodies differ based on breed, genetics, diet, and level of exercise.

As a rider it is important to be able to measure a horse’s height and weight as this information will help you in a number of areas, z need and choose the right horse size for you.

In this guide, we’ll cover the basics of measuring a horse’s height and weight, including:

How tall is the average horse?

The average horse is between 13.3-17.3 hands tall (or 1.4-1.8 meters), but it should be noted that this number includes all breeds. For competition purposes in the UK a pony is classed as being under 14.2 hands (1.47m), although actual pony breeds can be taller – you can read more about the differences between a horse and a pony later in this section.

Looking more closely at the different horse types reveals a greater variance in size, with some being much smaller on average and others being much larger. Light saddle horses are usually 14–16 hands (1.42–1.63 m), larger saddle horses are 15.2–17 hands (1.57–1.73 m), and heavy or draft horses are usually 16–18 hands (1st class). .63-1.83m). Growth can also be influenced by genetics and diet.

A horse’s height is measured from the highest point of the withers, where the neck meets the back, to the ground.

Height table for horses

Here are some of the horse breeds common in the UK and their average height:

Horse breed Average height (hands) Average height (inches) Average height (yards) American Warmblood 15-17 hands 60-68 inches 1.52-1.73 m Arabian 14.1-15.1 hands 57-61 inches 1.45 -1.55m Ardennes Horse 15.3-16.1 hands 63-65 inches 1.60-1.65m Cleveland Bay Horse 16-16.2 hands 64-66 inches 1.63-1.68m Clydesdale Horse 16 -18 hands 64-72 in 1.63-1.83 m Connemara pony 12.2-14.2 hands 50-58 in 1.27-1.47 m Dales pony 13-14 hands 52-56 in 1 1.32-1.42 m Dartmoor Pony 11.1-12.2 hands 45-50 in 1.14-1.27 m Dutch Warmblood 15-17 hands 60-68 in 1.52-1.73 m Eriskay Bangs 12-13.2 hands 48-54 inches 1.22-1.37 m Exmoor bangs 11.1-12.3 hands 45-51 inches 1.14-1.30 m coat bangs 13.2-14 Hands 54-56 in 1.37-1.42 m Hackney Horse 14.2-16.2 Hands 58-66 in 1.47-1.68 m Hackney Pony 12-14 Hands 48-56 in 1.22- 1.42m Half Finger 13.2-15 Hands 54-60 inches 1.40-1.52m Hanoverian 15.3-17.2 Hands 63-70 inches 1.60-1.78m Highland Pony 13-14, 2 hands 52–58 inches 1.32–1.47 m Holsteiner 1st 6-17 hands 64-68 in 1.63-1.73 m Irish Draft Horse 15.1-16.3 hands 61-63 in 1.55-1.60 m New Forest Pony 12-14.2 hands 48- 58″ 1.22-1.47m Percheron 16-17 hands 64-68″ 1.63-1.73m Shetland Pony 7-10.2 hands 28-42″ .71-1.07m Shire Horse 16- 17 hands 64-68 inches 1.63-1.73m Spotted Pony 8-14 hands 32-56 inches .81-1.42m Suffolk Punch Horse 16.1-17.3 hands 65-71 inches 1.65 -1.80 m Swedish Warmblood 16-17 hands 64-68 in 1.63-1.73 m Thoroughbred 15.2-17.2 hands 62-70 in 1.57-1.78 m Welara 11.2-15 Hands 46-60 inches 1.17-1.52 m Westphalian horse 15.2-17.2 hands 62-70 inches 1.57-1.78 m

What is the difference between a horse and a pony?

Ponies and horses are both horses, but confusingly there are two ways a pony can be classified. Biologically, there are breeds known as ponies that differ from horses in their bone and muscular structure, as well as thicker manes, tails, and coats.

However, in UK competitions, a horse or pony (of any breed) is called a pony if it is less than 14.2 hands (1.47 m) tall, while a horse is considered that size or larger. In competitive riding, a horse that is considered a pony is usually entered into a pony classification where younger riders manage smaller jumps and shorter distances.

Adults typically ride a horse in the equine classification and compete at the regular levels.

This can cause some confusion as there are larger pony breeds that regularly grow over 14.2 hands but would be classed as horses in a competition. Likewise, smaller horse breeds can be shorter than this height, so horses, while still biological, would compete in a pony classification.

Why are horses measured in hands?

A hand is the historical unit of measurement for horse height and is still commonly used in many English-speaking countries. In equestrian sport, despite imperial and metric systems, it has been retained as the preferred unit of measure because it is part of tradition. It is often abbreviated to “h” or “hh”.

The measurement has been used since ancient times and was originally based on the hand span, so there were quite a few variations possible depending on the culture that used it. In 1540, King Henry VIII standardized the measurement in England at 4 inches, which spread to the rest of the British Empire over the next hundred years. This 4 inch standard became widespread and is still the device of choice in the UK, USA, New Zealand, Australia, Canada and Ireland. Metric units are primarily used in other parts of the world as well as by the International Federation for Equestrian Sports (FEI).

How do you measure a horse?

To measure a horse you should make sure it is standing on a level surface and measure from the ground directly to the highest point of its withers (A) as shown in the picture below.

It’s best to use a measuring stick marked with pointer intervals, but you can convert from inches or centimeters. It’s also possible to use a tape measure, but you’ll likely need someone to help you keep it straight.

Note: Do you want to choose a horse that is the right size? Then be sure to read our tips on choosing the right horse for your height.

How to convert horse measurements

Once you have your horse’s height in inches, you can convert it to hands by dividing by 4. There is a chance that your horse has a measurement that cannot be divided exactly into whole numbers – for example: 63 divided by 4 is 15.75. In these measurements, the hands use a decimal to represent the extra length that is not divisible:

0.25 = 0.1

0.5 = 0.2

0.75 = 0.3

Example: If your horse is 63 inches tall, 63 divided by 4 is 15.75, which is 15.3 hands. Or, if your horse is 57 inches tall, 57 divided by 4 is 14.25, which equals 14.1 hands.

We’ve provided a handy conversion chart below to help you convert your measurements.

Hands Inch Feet/Inch Meter 7.0 28 2’4″ 0.7112 7.1 29 2’5″ 0.7366 7.2 30 2’6″ 0.762 7.3 31 2’7″ 0.7874 8.0 32 2’8″ 0.8128 8.1 32 43 8 2.8″ ” 0.8636 8.3 35 2’11” 0.889 9.0 36 3′ 0.9144 9.1 37 3’1″ 0.9398 9.2 38 3’2″ 0.9652 9.3 39 3’3″ 0.9906 10.0 40 3’4″ ″ 6 1.04’6″ 6 1.04214 0 6 1.04214 10.3 43 3’7 ″ 1.0922 11.0 44 3’8 ″ 1.1176 11.1 45 3’9 ″ 1.1.2 46 3’10 ”1.1684 11.3 47 3’11” 1.1938 12 ′ 1.2192 12.1 4’1 ″ 1.2446 12 .2 50 4’2″ 1.27 12.3 51 4’3″ 1.2954 13.0 52 4’4″ 1.3208 13.1 53 4’5″ 1.3462 13.2 54 4’6″ 1.397 13.3 55 4’7″ 7.397 14.0 56″ 56″ 7.397 14.0 56″ 56.55 4’7″ 7.397 4’8″ 1.4224 14.1 57 4’9″ 1.4478 14.2 32” 4’47 58 4’478 14.2 58 .3 59 4’11” 1.4986 15.0 60 5′ 1.524 15.1 61 5’1″ 1.5494 15.2 62 5’2″ 1.5748 15.3 63 5’3.5’3 5’3 5’3 5’3 5’2″″″ 1.5748 15.3 63 5’3.5’3 5’3 5’3 5’3 5’2’2″″″ 1.5748 15.3 63 5’3 5’3, 5’3 5’3 5’3 5’3 5’2″ 1.6002 16.0 64 5’4″ 1.6256 16.1 65 5’5′ 1.651 16.2 66 5’6″ 1.6764 16.3 67 5’7 ″ 1.7018 17.0 68 5’8″ 1.7272 17.1 69 5’9″ 1.756 17.2 70 5’10′” 1.778 17.3 71 5’11” 1.803 18.0 72 6′ 1.8288

How much does a horse weigh?

A horse can weigh between 300 and 1,000 kg. Like their size, this measurement will vary drastically in different breeds of different sizes. For example, a thoroughbred horse would weigh 450–500 kg while a Shire horse would weigh 700–1,200 kg. Ponies are smaller and can range from a Shetland pony at 180-200kg to a larger breed like the Fell pony at 350-450kg.

Size is an important factor in a horse’s weight, as the increased frame of a larger horse results in more bulk. So this must be taken into account when deciding if a horse is at a healthy level. Other influences that play a role are the horse’s age, diet and activity level. There is also the influence of their genes, which can control traits such as weight distribution, metabolism and appetite.

Weight chart for horses

Here are some of the common horse breeds in the UK and their average weight range:

Horse Breed Average Weight (kg) Average Weight (lbs) American Warmblood 550-600 kg 1,212-1,322 lbs Arabian 360-450 kg 793-992 lbs Ardennes Horse 700-1,000 kg 1,543-2,205 lbs Cleveland Bay Horse 550-700 kg 1,212-1,543 lbs Clydesdale Horse 700-800 kg 1,543-1,764 lbs Connemara Pony 290-390 kg 639-860 lbs Dales Pony 400-500 kg 882-1,102 lbs dartmoor pony 200-320 kg 441-705 lbs hutch warm butch warm butch warmblood 550-600kg 1,212 – 1,212 – 1,212 – 32° Exmoor Pony 300-400kg 661-882lbs Fell Pony 350-450kg 772-992lbs Hackney Horse 400-550kg 882-1,212lbs Hackney Pony 250-350kg 551-772lbs Half Finger 350-600kg 772-1,322lbs Hanoverian 550 600kg Highland pony 500–600kg 1.102–1.322LBS Holsteiner 450–700kg 992–1.764LBS Irish Trainpfer 600–700kg 1.322–1.764LBS New Forest Pony 507–728LBS Percheron 850–950kg 1.874-94LBS Shetland pony 2,094lbs –441lbs Shire Horse 700–1200kg 1,543–2,646lbs Spotted Pony 200–300kg 441–882lbs Suffolk Punch Horse 750–900kg 1,653–1,984lbs Swedish h Warmblood 400–550kg 882–1,212lbs Thoroughbred 450–500kg 992–1,102lbs Welara 300–400kg 661–882lbs Westphalian horse 450–600kg 992–1,322lbs

How to weigh a horse

Here are the three easiest ways to weigh or accurately estimate your horse’s weight:

Please note: We recommend taking these measurements every 1-2 weeks and documenting your horse’s progress. This way you can see how they are doing and if any adjustments to feeding or medication are needed.

Checking your horse’s weight is a process that you must become familiar with if you want to take optimal care of your horse. This is because they need to stay in a healthy weight range for their breed, otherwise they can develop serious health problems. Being overweight can cause laminitis, heart disease, lung problems and insulin resistance, while being underweight can be a sign of disease and dental problems. Checking the weight can also help you estimate the right dosage for any medication needed and ensure the feeding routine is tailored to their needs.

Using a horse scale

We’ll start with the most obvious method: place your horse on a horse scale or cattle scale, also known as a weighbridge. They feature large, heavy-duty platforms that can support the weight of a horse. While a scale is perfectly accurate, they are not widely available, are quite large and can be expensive to purchase so there may be times when you don’t have access to one.

Use a horse weight band

A horse weight tape is a soft tape measure marked with pounds or kilograms (or both) instead of standard length measurements. The idea is that it is possible to estimate total weight by measuring the horse’s heart circumference, starting just below the withers, around the bottom of the body (B) and back again. This method has an accuracy of about 90% and is the most common method that riders use to regularly check how much their horse weighs.

How to use a weight band:

Make sure your horse is on level ground and relaxed. This is important to ensure they don’t tense their muscles or over-inflate their lungs with heavy breathing, which can interfere with the measurement. Hold the band on your horse’s left side, just behind his withers, and let it hang down the opposite side of his body so that it dangles under his belly. Make sure it isn’t twisted and that your horse can get used to the band. You may need a second pair of hands if you can’t reach them. With your free hand, reach under your horse’s belly and grasp the loose band before pulling it up and around the left side of his body, making sure it’s snug but not too tight. The tape should run just behind the withers, a few inches behind the front legs and back to the same position on the left side. Don’t worry if these instructions cause the tape to run diagonally across the body: that’s how it should be. Now that the tape measure is in place, you can read the dot next to the zero point at the beginning of the tape measure to find your horse’s weight. For better accuracy, it is recommended to repeat this process 3 or 4 times and then calculate the average of the measurements. This is because your horse’s body expands and contracts as it breathes, giving a slightly different reading each time.

Using a weight formula

To get a more accurate picture of your horse’s weight, you can use a regular tape measure to take measurements (heart circumference and height) and use a widely used weight formula to calculate an estimate. There are two versions of the formula for metric and imperial measurements:

Using inches: ((heart circumference x heart circumference) x body length) ÷ 330 = body weight in pounds

((Heart Circumference x Heart Circumference) x Height) ÷ 330 = Body Weight in Pounds Using centimeters: ((Heart Circumference x Heart Circumference) x Height) ÷ 11,990 = Body Weight in Kilos

This formula requires you to measure your heart’s circumference, which can be done using the same steps as using a weight band. You will also need to measure your horse’s body length as shown in the image below (C), which will likely require a second pair of hands. Follow these steps:

Get a second person to hold your horse and the tape measure. You should position the zero end of the tape at the shoulder point of the front legs. Take the other end of the tape measure and go to the rear of the horse, measuring down to the buttocks. Make sure the tape is taut and straight to ensure an accurate reading.

Here’s an example of each calculation so you can see how they work.

A horse has a heart circumference of 78″ and a body length of 81″, so the formula would be:

((78 x 78) x 81) ÷ 330 = 1,493 pounds

A horse has a heart circumference of 198 cm and a body length of 206 cm, so the formula would be:

((198 x 198) x 206) ÷ 11,990 = 674 kg

Hint: Need to find a horse that is the right size? Then take a look at our advice on choosing the right horse for your weight.

Horse weight management tips

Now that you know roughly what your horse should weigh and how to monitor it, you can track its progress every week or two. However, you may be wondering what you should do if your horse is gaining or losing weight in an unhealthy way – you can refer to our weight chart as a general guide for a weight range, but you should assess your horse individually if you’re still not sure. Our Body Scoring Guide will show you how to get a better picture of your horse’s body condition. In this section we give you some tips for managing the weight of underweight or overweight horses.

Please note: This advice is for guidance only. You should always seek the opinion of a veterinarian or equine nutritionist if you are concerned about your horse’s weight.

Dealing with an underweight horse

Make an appointment with the vet: Before taking any weight correction measures, have your horse examined by a veterinarian. They can run tests to make sure there aren’t any serious underlying health issues that could be causing the weight loss.

Before taking any action to correct your horse’s weight, have it checked out by a veterinarian. They can run tests to make sure there aren’t any serious underlying health issues that could be causing the weight loss. Check the quality of the roughage: Your horse cannot get the nutrients and energy it needs from poor-quality roughage. You may need to ensure that roughage has adequate energy and nutritional value and is not coarse and difficult to digest. This may require getting the roughage you’ve tested, but you should make sure there isn’t a problem on your end, such as: B. incorrect storage of hay or haylage.

Your horse cannot get the nutrients and energy it needs from inferior roughage. You may need to ensure that roughage has adequate energy and nutritional value and is not coarse and difficult to digest. This may require getting the roughage you’ve tested, but you should make sure there isn’t a problem on your end, such as: B. incorrect storage of hay or haylage. Give Your Horse Unlimited Roughage: Horses depend on roughage as their staple diet. So giving your horse access to it at all times will ensure he is free to peck at the feed all day. This also ensures that their natural digestive pattern is mimicked, helping them gain weight faster.

Horses depend on roughage as a staple food. So giving your horse access to this all the time will ensure he is free to peck at the feed all day. This also ensures that their natural digestive pattern is mimicked, helping them gain weight faster. Give your horse more time out in the pasture: Naturally grown grass has a higher protein and energy content than hay and haylage, so it pays to let your horse out in the pasture longer to make sure he’s getting as much as possible . Just make sure to cover your horse appropriately when he’s outdoors for long periods of time.

Naturally grown grass has a higher protein and energy content than hay and haylage, so it pays to let your horse out in the pasture longer to make sure he’s getting as much as possible. Just make sure to cover your horse appropriately when he’s outdoors for long periods of time. Adjust nutrition to work level: As you exercise your horse more, he may need additional feeds such as grains, supplements and mixes to compensate for the extra energy expenditure. You’ll have to review and adjust their feed to accommodate any changes in their needs as you start working them harder.

Dealing with an overweight horse

Get advice from the vet: Have your horse examined by a veterinarian before making any decisions about changing the diet or taking any other action. It could be an underlying health issue causing the problem rather than overeating.

Have your horse checked by a veterinarian before making any decisions about changing diets or doing anything else. It could be an underlying health issue causing the problem rather than overeating. Check the feed: If your horse’s current feed is providing him with too many calories, it could be causing him to gain weight. It is therefore worth reviewing their needs and making any necessary adjustments to the amount of roughage or other types of feed they are currently consuming to ensure they are getting back into balance.

If your horse’s current diet is giving him too many calories, it could cause him to gain weight. It is therefore worth reviewing their needs and making any necessary adjustments to the amount of roughage or other types of feed they are currently consuming to ensure they are getting back into balance. Accurately Weigh All Feed: To ensure you don’t accidentally overfeed, weigh all of your horse’s feed rather than guessing or using volumetric measures such as handfuls or scoops. This will give you the most accurate portion size possible.

To ensure you don’t accidentally overfeed, weigh all of your horse’s feed rather than guessing or using volumetric measures such as handfuls or scoops. This will give you the most accurate portion size possible. Reduce the amount of grazing: When you take your horse out to pasture for the day, it could end up overgrazing itself or eating a type of grass that contains more energy than you thought. Instead of putting your horse in a stall, try to put it in a place where it can be exposed without access to large amounts of roughage. This will ensure your horse is still getting exercise and exposure to the weather, which is essential for weight loss.

When you take your horse out to pasture for the day, he could be overgrazing or eating a type of grass that contains more energy than you thought. Instead of putting your horse in a stall, try to put it in a place where it can be exposed without access to large amounts of roughage. This will ensure your horse is still getting exercise and exposure to the weather, which is essential for weight loss. Explore more creative grazing solutions: There are some slightly more creative ways that will allow your horse to turn and lose weight. Putting up fences that force them to walk a distance to get water or low-calorie roughage can improve their exercise. You can also let a horse that is not overweight go out to pasture first so that all the juicy grass has already been eaten.

There are some slightly more creative methods that will allow your horse to turn and lose weight. Putting up fences that force them to walk a distance to get water or low-calorie roughage can improve their exercise. You can also let a horse that is not overweight go out to pasture first so that all the juicy grass has already been eaten. Consider over-protecting your horse: A horse that is over-protected from the elements will burn fewer calories than one with the right level of protection because it doesn’t need as much exercise to stay warm and tone its body holding doesn’t have to use as much energy. It is therefore worth considering whether you are providing your horse with too much rug – see our rug guide which contains a horse rug temperature guide to see what the appropriate level should be.

A horse that is overly protected from the elements will burn fewer calories than one with the right level of protection because they don’t need to exercise as much to stay warm and their body doesn’t have to burn as much energy. It is therefore worth considering whether you are providing your horse with too much rug – see our rug guide which contains a horse rug temperature guide to see what the appropriate level should be. Increase the level of work: There may be times when your horse is not getting the right amount of exercise for his diet or in general. As such, you may need to ride them more often, walk around, or allow them to spend more time outdoors to ensure they burn off that energy.

Being able to accurately measure your horse’s height and track their weight will help you keep them as healthy as possible. It also makes other tasks easier, e.g. B. buying tack or planning which eventing, show jumping or dressage categories you would like to participate in. We hope this guide has given you some insight into the importance of height and weight and how to monitor them.

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Hand, ancient unit of length, now standardized at 4 inches (10.16 cm) and now primarily used to measure the height of horses from the ground to the withers (top of the shoulders). The unit was originally defined as the width of the palm including the thumb. A statute by King Henry VIII of England set the hand at four inches. Units of different lengths were used by the ancient Egyptians, Hebrews, Greeks, Romans and others.