Barnett Vortex Youth Bow String? The 87 Top Answers

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Compound bows are modern marvels – an intricate network of components like cables and pulleys. But the heart of the bow is still the bowstring. This is the most important component of the bow, responsible for transferring the power of the bow to the arrow during the shot. Properly restringing your compound bow is important to keep it in top condition.

But how much does it cost to re-string a compound bow? It typically costs between $50 and $300 to have a compound bow re-strung. A bowstring generally costs between $50 and $200, while the tools needed to tighten it cost another $50 to $100. The labor to have your bow professionally re-strung can be as low as $20.

As you can see, making a DIY rest ring can actually get more expensive!

Especially the first time, since you have to take into account all the tools.

Paying a pro to re-string your compound bow still means you have to buy the bowstring, but you’re paying for their expertise and time here.

And as you will also see, there is quite a range here.

And of course there are a number of other factors to consider such as: B. Place of residence, transport costs and so on and so on.

Still, let’s break down the costs a bit further to give you a much better understanding and a fair prediction of your total costs.

How much does it cost to have a compound bow professionally re-strung?

Typically, this can cost anywhere from $70 to $250, depending on the specific bowstring you buy and how much the professional charges for the job. This is relatively quick and easy as most archery supply stores have the correct stringing equipment.

Whether you decide to string your own strings or have a specialist do it, the first thing you need to buy is a bowstring.

When setting a budget, think about how often you will be shooting and what weight of bowstring you will need.

You may also need to consider how your compound bow’s strings will need to be installed when deciding which ones to buy.

Change your bowstring every year or two if you are a regular shooter.

This is especially true for archers practicing target archery, as the repetitive motion forces ever-increasing strain on the bowstring.

If you hunt with a compound bow, you won’t shoot as often.

That means you’ll have to change the string less often – every two to three years at most.

When the string shows signs of fraying and wear, you need to replace it, regardless of how long you’ve had it.

Bowstrings can cost as little as $50 or as much as $200.

How much you spend depends on several factors, e.g. B. how much you shoot and what draw weight you want to shoot with.

If you practice regularly and your compound bow gets a lot of use, it’s definitely worth opting for a higher quality bowstring that will stand up to tougher shooting.

You then have to pay someone to do the actual exchange.

Usually the best place to do this is your local archery shop.

You know exactly how to quickly and safely re-string your compound bow with the right tools.

Labor costs vary by store but typically range from $20 to $50.

How much does it cost to re-string a compound bow yourself?

While it may seem cheaper to re-string your compound bow at home, the cost may not differ that much. You still need to get a bowstring, which costs between $50 and $200. You can change your bowstring without special equipment, but using a bow press is always recommended. Even a travel bow press can cost around $50.

Even if you re-string yourself, you still need a new bowstring for your compound bow.

As we discussed above, the exact cost will vary based on your needs, but you can pay anywhere from $50 to $200.

It’s definitely good practice to spend a little more to get a quality, durable string from a recognized brand if you’re going to be shooting a lot.

Changing your compound bow string yourself can save you labor costs for the job.

While this sounds great, it’s important to make sure you know exactly how to safely re-string your compound bow.

Incorrect practice puts a lot of stress on the components of the bow and can also be extremely dangerous if the bow or string breaks while shooting.

To ensure the bowstring is changed properly, it’s a good idea to invest in a bow press.

This piece of gear keeps the bow safe during maintenance and can be a great purchase.

You can also get portable bow presses, although even those cost around $50.

This means that even without paying for the labor, it can cost about the same to re-string your compound bow either yourself or by paying someone else.

Or more.

If you want to buy a full arch press, these can cost you hundreds of dollars.

Unless you do a lot of customization work on your compound bow, buying a full bow press isn’t really going to be worth it.

But if you have the right knowledge to safely restring the bow without the help of a bow press, then you can save some serious money in the long run by doing the process yourself.

All you need to buy is the bowstring.

Without paying for professional work, you could save anywhere from $20 to $50 each time.

Where can you have your compound bow re-strung?

There are a few options here. The best place to go is your local archery shop. You have the right knowledge and tools to safely and correctly re-string your compound bow. You may also know someone who knows how to change compound bowstrings at your local archery club or range.

For most archers looking to have their compound bow professionally re-strung, the easiest way is to go to a local archery or sporting goods store.

You have to pay for the work, but it’s worth making sure it’s done safely.

If you have several archery shops in your area, it pays to shop around and compare prices to see who’s doing it the cheapest.

The reason for using a professional archery shop is that they have the proper tools to string compound bows safely and often use a full bow press.

They also have the expertise and experience to get the job done quickly and properly.

Re-stringing generally costs between $20 and $50, which is definitely worth it for safety reasons.

Unless you really know how to safely re-string a compound bow, it can be extremely dangerous.

If the bow is not properly adjusted or the string is not properly made, the tension will be distributed incorrectly.

This can cause live components to suddenly rupture, potentially injuring you and others.

You may also be able to have your compound bow re-cocked by someone with the right skills and tools at your local club or shooting range.

This will likely still incur a fee, but it may not be as expensive as taking your bow to a store.

However, make sure the person knows exactly what they are doing.

What do you need to re-string your compound bow yourself?

If you’ve decided to go the DIY route, you’ll need a few tools to properly re-string your compound bow. A bow press, whether portable or full-size, helps secure the bow when re-tensioning. You will also need some Allen keys.

Once you’ve bought your chosen string, you’ll need to customize it. If you are doing DIY re-stringing, you will need some tools to safely change the string.

Whether you’re using a bow press or not, you’ll need some allen or hex wrenches to loosen the screws on the center line of the bow.

This helps to relax the tension in the bow and makes it possible to change strings.

Although you can hand-restring a compound bow, it’s worth investing in a bow press to ensure maintenance is done correctly and safely.

A bow press helps hold the bow securely while you work on it and reduces stress in the components.

You can get both portable and fixed bow presses depending on which one suits your needs.

Portable bow presses are useful if you enjoy hunting with your compound bow so you can re-string your bow in the wild too.

They cost around $50 and up.

My first and clear recommendation is this one from Bass Pro Shops.

Fixed bow presses can cost hundreds of dollars.

A portable bow press meets the needs of most archers.

Some compound bows actually require you to use a bow press to change strings.

You can also contact the company that made your bow to see what they recommend.

You will also need to determine how your bowstring needs to be adjusted.

For bows with teardrop attachments, each new string must be installed while the old one is still connected.

With bows without these special attachments, changing the string is much easier.

Are Barnett crossbows any good?

If you know anything about crossbows and the top manufacturers, you know that Barnett crossbows are one of the best brands out there.

They produce some of the best crossbows on the market that shoot fast and accurate yet are affordable. They are less expensive than Ravin Crossbows but still of the highest quality.

Barnett have made several types of crossbows as opposed to Excalibur crossbows who only make recurve bows and we have had the pleasure of being able to shoot and review most of them.

On this page we’ve selected the 5 Barnett crossbows that performed the best in our tests and reviewed them to help you choose the Barnett crossbow that’s best for you

Miss part 1? What about part 2?

Things are getting interesting. Here’s an update on where we’re in the process of making a bow and arrow.

Our bow:

has completely dried

has an ultra smooth back

begins to bend at the upper and lower limbs

This is a good place to be. We’ve laid out our bow and are beginning to learn how to consistently and efficiently remove wood from the belly.

Our arch will begin to bend when we use the bottom tillering method from Part 2. It’s time to tighten our bow more and more – but only in small steps. It’s time to string a string on our wooden bow!

Make a bowstring

There are many ways to make a string for a traditional bow. You could just take a piece of nylon cord or 550 paracord slightly longer than your bow, carve some grooves near the tips of your bow and attach the cord.

What’s the problem with that?

Well, think of a bowstring’s job: to throw an arrow as quickly, accurately, and safely as possible.

It may not look like it, but nylon string is relatively heavy. A heavy string means our arrow will be thrown much slower than if we were to use a light string.

Flight archers (archers who shoot arrows in the 300-400 yard range!) use ultra-light – and therefore weaker – strings. We don’t need to go that far as it may compromise the security of our bow.

Our goal is to develop a string that is light but strong. The traditional bowstring was made from sinew (animal sinew) or animal intestines. Natural fibers have also been used, but they are not as strong and can take many hours to make.

The modern material of choice is a waxed polyester string: Dacron B-50. It comes in large spools, about the diameter of thick dental floss. Depending on the strength of the arch, you should use 12-16 strands of Dacron B-50. For a bow that draws 50 pounds I use 14 strands.

Here’s how to make a bowstring. Set up a “jig” to measure how long you need to make your bowstring. Drive two nails into a board spaced the length of your bow PLUS 18 inches. Then, using a spool, wrap dacron around the nails until you have 7 strands. Cut off both ends.

Repeat with a different colored spool of Dacron.

At this point you have two different colored bundles of 7 strands. If you’ve made cordage using the reverse wrap method, you’re in luck. If not, then you have to learn something.

One end of our string will have a loop. This loop will be the side we use to string and relax our bow. This will live on the top of your bow. The other side has a simple knot that is easy to tie and untie. We will adjust this knot several times during the making of the bow and arrow.

Let’s create the loop that goes around one end of your bow. If you like it chic, call it by its real name: the Flemish bow. It kind of sticks in your throat, doesn’t it?

Put your two bundles of 7 strands together. Start 8 inches from one end of your line and begin making cordage towards the short end of the line – in the opposite way, which is intuitive.

You only need 2-3 inches of cordage, but it needs to be in the middle of your cord. You want 4-5 inches of “tail” unwrapped. You’ll soon see why.

Make sure the loop isn’t too big or too small. Grab your bow and adjust the loop on one end of your bow. You just want to be able to slide it down about 6 inches. If the loop is too big, unwrap some cordage. If it doesn’t fit over the end, add a few more wraps of cord.

Now connect the unwrapped section on both sides of the cordage. This is where having two different colored bundles comes in handy. Connect strands of the same color together and continue to wrap the twine down. If you get it right, you’ll have a Flemish bow!

You have the option to further wrap the entire string. Or you can wrap another 18 inches beyond the loop and leave it unwrapped. For now, just tie off the end with a simple square knot.

Make string grooves

You may be wondering how to attach your freshly minted string to your bow; You need to create string grooves near the bow tips. String grooves should be just deep enough for your string to rest on without falling out of the groove. The biggest challenge is making these grooves symmetrical, since you’ll need to make one on either side of your limb tips.

On the back of your bow, make a mark 1/2 inch from the top. On the belly, make a mark 3/4 inch from the top. Repeat on the opposite side AND on the other tip. Make sure the lower end is on the stomach side.

You can use a knife to carve the grooves, but my tool of choice is a 1/8 inch chainsaw file. Go slowly, making sure the bottom of each groove lines up with the other side.

To finish the groove, take 100 grit sandpaper and round off the sharp edges of your grooves. This prevents your string from being damaged by the wear and tear of stringing and releasing your bow.

Tie a string to your bow

Lastly, we need to tie the string to your bow. One ending is easy: just put your flemish bow in the groove. Kind!

Use a wooden coupler for the other end. The wooden coupler is a great knot. If you are using the bow drill fire starting technique, this is a good knot for your bow.

Learn the wooden clutch at my favorite knot site.

Loose string tillering

Wow. There’s a string on your bow! This is an exciting time in the bow and arrow manufacturing process. You might even be tempted to pull back your bow just to see what happens. If you have this urge, I recommend going in and sticking your head in the freezer for 7-10 minutes.

You’ve made it this far. No need to go crazy and ruin your bow.

At this point you only want to bend your bow as far as you are standing on the ground – maybe 3-4 inches.

As Yoda would say in a slightly creepy voice, “Patience.”

In part 2 we talked about the main goals of tillering:

Keep our two limbs equally strong. Maintain an even bend in each limb.

Another goal is to train our bow. That is why this early phase is so critical. As we keep bending our bow, we are compressing the fibers of the belly of our bow. If we draw our bow too far when it’s not ready, the bow will remember it. It can cause permanent weakness or, if it’s extreme, break our bow.

With the first two goals accomplished, our bow can be progressively bent in 1-2 inch increments.

But what if our bow limbs are not the same?

Then don’t bend your bow any further.

Rest your bow on a tiller board with a loosely attached string. Make sure your bow is centered on the board – you can put a mark in the middle of your bow and in the middle of the tiller board.

Now, in one smooth motion, bend your bow so that the tips bend 2-3 inches. Place the string in a notch or on a nail and take a few steps back. How do the limbs compare to each other?

Does one side pull significantly further down? What does the top link look like?

What about the floor? Is there a smooth bend or are there “hinges”?

This can be really difficult to see at first, but don’t despair. The details of your bow will become easier to see the further you delve into the stocking.

The goal here is to get each limb loaded evenly before you continue drawing your bow. If you’re a perfectionist, save that for later. Get close enough.

If you haven’t already, it’s time to mark the upper and lower limbs. It doesn’t matter what is what at this point. However, you want the flemish loop at the top. I simply place a “T” and a “B” on each appropriate link. This will help you remember which limb you are working on.

While your bow is on the tiller board, make a habit of marking areas where the bow bends more or less. Definitely worth using a pencil liberally. You may at first remember all the intricacies of your bow, but after repeating this process over and over again, you’ll be glad you took notes while your bow rested on the tiller.

When the limbs are relatively close together and there are no obvious hinges or weak points, it’s time to take the bow off the tiller board and make wood shavings.

Safety Note: It’s tempting to leave the string tied to the bow. That saves time, right? I recommend removing the string every time you remove wood. I’ve cut strings with my tools and it’s a real disappointment. Your thong will also be waxed. It tends to pick up dust and chips. This will weaken your string, so keep it off the ground.

At this stage you will probably still need to remove some wood. My wood removal technique is to alternate between the Ferrier rasp and a Nicholson bastard file. Use the rasp side for the majority of your effort, then finish each session with the file side. Remove wood evenly, noting how many passes you make with your rasp on each side.

I like counting, so I do 50 passes on each side and see how much that affects my bow. Reattach your line and place it on the tiller board. Bend it to the same place as before. Is it easier to pull? Is there practically no difference at all?

You want to find the balance in removing wood so you notice a difference, but not so much that you notice a BIG difference. If your bow limbs are uneven, it may take 50 passes on the lighter side and 75 passes on the heavier side.

You are working towards having your bow bend evenly and consistently at a 6 inch bend. This means the tips of your bow snap off 6 full inches from the back of the bow.

Here’s a tip to see how far your limbs bend. Lay your bow on a tack board and pull it down 3-4 inches. Get a straight piece of wood a foot longer than your bow. Place it on the back of your bow, making sure it’s centered. You can now measure the distance traveled by each link. This way you can see how the upper and lower limbs compare.

Before you continue to draw your bow, your limbs should ideally be within 1/2 inch of each other. Sometimes one limb requires more work to make it bend the same as the other.

You are making progress!

Keep removing wood from the belly. Check your results often and look for any bumps or valleys that YOU create. Check the thickness of both sides of your sheet. I’ve made a habit of using both my right and left hands so I don’t thin out one side more than the other.

Be patient and take breaks when necessary. Remember to raise your head from time to time. Was that a bird that just flew by? Has the sun gone down yet? How many planes have flown by since you started working on your bow?

Watch your bow. But don’t neglect the rest of the world.

Draw your bow

When your bow bends evenly (even without hinges) a full 6 inches on both sides, it’s time to string your bow. This can be very exciting and a little nerve wracking.

First, take your flemish bow out of the string groove. Lower it about 2 inches from the bottom of the groove. Now untie the other side and retie your wooden hitch. If you have several inches of tail, you can wrap it around the bow and tie it off with a simple knot.

I like to use the “step-through method” to string bows. With your bow at a steep angle and the back of the bow facing the ground, stand with your left leg between the string and the bow.

Try to mimic how your bow normally bends. Place the grip on your thigh and shift your weight so that your bow is slightly strung. Now bend the top link and the bottom link as evenly as possible. Use your hand and body weight at the same time.

With the arc bent, slide the loop up into the string groove. If this is really difficult, DO NOT force it. It’s important to draw your bow as quickly as possible, but there’s no reason to rush it.

If you are able to string your bow, good job!

Be aware that your string will likely stretch and you will need to repeat this process a few times. Remove the loop, shorten your string, and re-stretch your bow. Those first attempts will likely be awkward. It will get easier over time.

When your bow is complete, you should have measured 6-7 inches from the back of your bow to the drawn string. But for your first try, 2-3 inches is enough to move forward.

Your bow should be easier to draw, but not so light that it really feels light.

You are now in the final phase of tillering! The finish line is so close.

It’s probably time for a break. In the meantime, it’s important to leave your bow unstrung in a dry, sheltered place.

In Part 4 of How to Make a Bow and Arrow we will cover measuring the weight of the bow, final stocking and finishing your bow.

Looking for a simple rule that will determine when bowstrings need to be replaced? You are in the right place. There are a number of factors that affect how quickly your strings wear out, including how often you shoot, where you shoot, and how you care for and store your bow. It’s a bit like replacing your car’s tires. Learn to recognize the signs it’s time for a replacement so you can keep doing your best.

When you need to replace bowstrings and cables depends on how often you shoot, your shooting environment, and how the bow is stored and maintained. These factors all play a large role in the life of your bowstring and cable. This article will help you understand when you should replace your string and cables.

Target or hunt?

As a bowstring manufacturer, we receive two of the most frequently asked questions: “How often do I need to replace my bowstring and cables” and “How do I know when it’s time to replace my bowstring and cables”. The answer is simple. Like most bow manufacturers, we recommend changing the string and cable once a year for target bows and every two years for hunting bows. Target bows need to be re-tensioned more often because they see more shots than a comparable hunting bow. Also, many target bows shoot lighter target arrows that put more force on the bowstring and cable compared to a heavier hunting arrow.

It’s also important to consider several variables that affect the life of your bowstring and cables and when you need to replace your bowstring and cables:

how often you shoot

your recording environment

how the bow is stored

how the bow is maintained

These factors all play a large role in the life of your bowstring and cable. Remember that your bowstring and cables are under extreme tension even when no shots are being fired. Over time, the constant tension degrades the bowstring material, causing it to stretch, fray, and wear out.

Every year we hear the same stories from our customers. “My bowstring is only five years old and I haven’t shot much with it, but when I opened my bow case this season it broke.” I liken changing bowstrings and cables to changing the oil in a car. They change your oil every 3,000 miles to keep your car running better and lasting longer. Since you’ve invested hundreds, if not thousands, of dollars in your bow setup, why not spend $75 on a new set of bowstrings every few years to maintain peak performance and extend its life?

How to recognize a worn string

Because strings wear out slowly over a long period of time, it can be difficult to see the gradual loss of performance. If you find that your bow isn’t shooting as fast or as accurately as it used to, consider replacing the bowstring.

You can also identify a worn string by visually examining it and gently running your finger down the length of the string. If you notice that your string looks or feels fuzzy or dry and cracked, or if the strings look like they are frayed or peeling, a change is overdue. While you can apply wax to prolong the life of a worn string, it really is better to just swap it out.

Check the timing marks

Many modern compound bows have a handy visual aid to help you determine when to replace bowstrings. Check your cameras to see if there are time stamps on them. These markings will give you a guide as to how your string should be positioned. If they’re off, that means it’s probably time for replacement strings, or at least general maintenance.

Does changing strings really make a difference?

Yes. Every single hit sends enormous amounts of energy and power through the string. It is natural for them to degrade and stretch over time. Upgrading your bow with new strings can restore your bow to better than new condition. Since you lose performance so slowly over time, you may be blown away when you finally replace your worn-out string.

Order custom strings today

Now that you know when to replace bowstrings, it might be time to replace your bowstrings, because the right bowstrings make a difference. We’re here to make it easy for you. We pride ourselves on offering the highest quality custom strings in the world. Choose from a variety of materials and colors so you can upgrade your bow exactly to your liking. Call our Pro Shop at 724-525-3972 or message us online for expert assistance. Subscribe to our newsletter for more helpful articles.

Your bow needs care to perform at its best. It’s similar to a car whose oil and fluids need to be checked and replaced regularly, and tire pressure and treads need to be routinely monitored.

Your archery shop’s knowledgeable bow mechanics will keep your bow performing at peak performance. But how often should your bow be serviced? What needs repair and maintenance? Here’s what you need to know about caring for your bow.

General wear and tear

A bow is a mechanical device that wears out over time, and no part of the bow is subject to greater wear and tear than the bowstring. Bowstrings on recurves and compounds require constant maintenance and eventually replacement. Watching slow motion videos of a bow being shot, the violent action is mesmerizing. The tendon takes the brunt of the load and wears out over time.

You can extend the life of the tendon by taking care of it and storing it properly. Also, regularly apply bowstring wax, which is available at archery stores. This is an essential part of sheet maintenance. Each day before shooting, check your bowstring for anything that looks fuzzy and run your fingers up and down to see if it feels dry. If you experience either condition, apply wax to the bowstring and rub it in with your fingers until it completely fuses with the string.

Storing your bow in a climate-controlled environment will extend its life by preventing string stretching. If you have a recurve or longbow, remove its string between shooting sessions to prolong its life. A compound bow’s draw length, brace height, draw weight, and tuning settings are all affected by string stretch. High temperatures cause bowstrings to stretch quickly. Store your bow indoors where constant temperatures prevent unwanted string stretching.

The sheaths of the bowstring are also wear-resistant. Bowstring wraps are braided thread wrapped around your bowstring in high stress areas. You will notice folds in the middle of the bowstring where the arrow hits the string and at both ends where it attaches to the bow. Portions may loosen over time. If this happens, take your bow to a nearby bow shop for inspection. Archery technicians repair the serve or replace the string.

Replace bowstrings

Similar to car tires, bowstrings wear out over time. When should you replace them? It depends on the draw weight of the bow, how often you shoot it, how well it is maintained and what conditions it is regularly exposed to.

Properly maintained bowstrings can last about three years, after which time they should be replaced. The bowstring should also be replaced if it is frayed or has a broken string. If you are unsure about replacing your bowstring, visit an archery store for help. The best part about replacing a bowstring is that you can choose custom colors that will make your bow unique.

growth spurt

Young archers with growth spurts may find that their bow no longer fits properly. Because as archers grow, their bow must adjust with them for comfort and accuracy. Most youth bows are easy to adjust, which is best done at a bow shop by a bow technician.

Annual tune up

A lot happens in a year, so it’s a good idea to visit your favorite archery technician annually. Bowstrings stretch, parts come loose from vibration, and things get out of alignment. Bow technicians check your bow and retune everything. The downside is this: You can no longer blame the bow for bad shots.

Drops, spills and dry burns

Accidents happen to even experienced archers. If you drop or dry fire your bow, take it to a bowsmith immediately. A dry shot means shooting a bow without an arrow. Bows are not designed to shoot in the air. If you draw a bow and let go of the bowstring with no arrow loaded, all of the stored energy meant for the arrow goes straight into the bow. The noise is terrible.

Dry firing is scary and dangerous, but it happens. If you dry fire a bow, check yourself immediately for injuries. If you are unharmed, place the bow in a suitcase immediately. As it begins to fall apart, the bow case will contain its parts. Then drive to the bow shop for a technician to assess and repair your bow.

A well cared for bow gives years of pleasure. If your bow has been neglected and needs fine tuning, go to a bow shop. You will make it shoot like new again.

question

Does it matter if the cables cross over the cable guard or under the cable guard?

Carter Herzig Community Answer

Some are crossed above and some are crossed below. It depends on the cams and the type of bow. A cable groove of the slide will have a deeper impression; This is for the inner cable if present. Once you have the cables installed in the slider, they should not touch at the crossing. The cables should be about 1/8 to 1/4 inch apart (this is for waxing and keeps them from rubbing). This should tell you if the crossover will be resting up or down. This is the case when the cables are installed by the manufacturer. Find a picture of your exact bow and see if it matches what you have set.

Surge Outdoors Acquires Archery Company Barnett Armbows Luke Cuenco 09/16/21

One of the biggest names in the bow and crossbow industry has just been acquired by Surge Outdoors. Barnett Crossbows – established in 1962 – has now been brought under the umbrella of Surge Outdoors’ rapidly growing list of companies. The acquisition comes amid Barnett Crossbows launching several new products for 2021 and promising more items to follow in the years to come.

Surge Outdoors acquires Archery Company Barnett Crossbows

One of Barnett’s new products, the Hypertac 420 is a compact crossbow with an integrated quiver, injection-molded metal trigger, anti-dry-fire technology, single bolt mount, step-thru riser and compatible with .204 diameter Hyperflite darts. The Hypertac 420 comes as a complete package with 3 22″ arrows, a side-mounted quiver, an illuminated 1.5-5x32mm scope and even a rope tensioner.

On the other hand, Barnett Crossbows President David Barnett was excited for the company to become part of the Surge Outdoors umbrella, stating that:

“With Barnett under the Surge umbrella, the future of the brand looks brighter than ever. We look forward to continuing to build on the longstanding reputation of the Barnett brand and its products. We are approaching our 60th anniversary in 2022 and as a pioneer in crossbow design and manufacture in our industry, I look forward to carrying on the torch of my forefathers once again… the best is surely yet to come.”

Although Barnett was acquired by Surge, none of Barnett’s current locations will be closed. Instead, Surge Outdoor will maintain operations in a variety of locations including Louisiana, Utah, Florida and of course Illinois, where Barnett is headquartered.

“Barnett is the first and longest running crossbow company with a rich history… I’m thrilled to once again help tell everyone that story and help write the next chapter. Barnett will continue to lead the crossbow industry through deep innovation and an increased focus on the archery industry,” -Ryan Busbice, Surge Outdoors, CEO.

I think we can rest assured that with Surge Outdoors acquiring the company, we can continue to expect new developments from both Barnett and Surge. Only time will tell what new products and accessories bow hunter and sport shooting companies will have in 2022.

As much as you might want your child to have quality archery gear, there’s a huge gap between the cheap toy bows on the market and your top-of-the-liner – until now. With Barnett’s versatile Vortex line of compound bows for kids, you can give your child a quality compound bow that fits well, doesn’t cost a fortune, and will grow as your child grows.

With four models to choose from, there’s the perfect Vortex to give your child a fun start to a lifelong love of archery.

The Vortex Lite is perfect for beginners with a light draw weight that’s adjustable from 18 to 29 pounds. It’s also suitable for small arms, with a short but adjustable draw range of 22 to 25 inches.

The Vortex takes it up a notch with a wide draw weight range from 19 to 45 pounds and draw length adjustment from 21 to 27 inches. With such a wide adjustment range, the Vortex is a great entry-level bow that can take a young archer well into their teens and even into the woods if hunting is the youth’s future.

Finally, the Vortex Hunter is a big game powerhouse, perfect for teens who are ready to take on the challenge of hunting in the field with mom or dad. With a draw weight range of 45 to 60 pounds, this bow won’t be underpowered to take on even the biggest bucks. The draw length is adjustable from 26 to 30 inches.

If you’re looking for a family activity to spend more time with your kids, introduce them to archery. With quality equipment like the Barnett Vortex family of compound bows for kids, you can give them a successful start with equipment that fits and grows with them.

Vortex Hunter Features:

Adjustable in 1″ increments

Constructed to ATA/AMO standards

Draw Weight: 45-60 lbs.

Draw Length: 26″-30″

Drain 60-70%

Package doubles as a carry bag

Right-hand bow

MSRP: $219

Vortex Properties:

Adjustable in 1″ increments

Constructed to ATA/AMO standards

Draw weight: 19-45 lbs.

Draw Length: 21″-27″

Drain 60-70%

Package doubles as a carry bag

Right-hand bow

MSRP: $159.99

Vortex Lite Features:

Adjustable in 1″ increments

Constructed to ATA/AMO standards

Draw weight: 18-29 lbs.

Draw Length: 22″-25″

Drain 60-70%

Right-hand bow

Package doubles as a carry bag

MSRP: $99.99

To learn more about the Barnett Vortex line, please visit www.barnettcrossbows.com/youth-archery.

1. How is/was BCY affected by the Corona virus?

Answers:

BCY was briefly closed but resumed full operations on 04/19/20, observing social distancing etc.

2. Question: How are BCY products different from Brownell products?

Answers:

here. Note that the performance of bowstring material can be affected by different production methods. So the comparison between BCY and Brownell products should help with size and basic specs. It is not confirmed that the products are made in the same way. Fiber type, fiber percentage, twist levels, color coatings, wax type and wax level are some of the things that BCY ensures are correct for the bowstring material. BCY products are made in the USA and we have prepared a two page document comparing BCY products to Brownell. You can download this document. Note that the performance of bowstring material can be affected by different production methods. So the comparison between BCY and Brownell products should help with size and basic specs. It is not confirmed that the products are made in the same way. Fiber type, fiber percentage, twist levels, color coatings, wax type and wax level are some of the things that BCY ensures are correct for the bowstring material.

3. Question: What is creep versus strain?

Answers:

Creep is non-recoverable strain as opposed to strain which is basically elasticity or recoverable strain. Some elasticity is necessary. Creeping is a problem. It can cause the bow to become detuned and cause the peep to rotate. Creep can affect draw weight and draw length.

4. Question: Are there any materials for bowstrings that don’t creep?

Answers:

Yes – 452X®, X-99®, 450 Plus; with the correct thread count. These are blends of Dyneema® and Vectran. Vectran has no creep under the tension created by normal bows; Therefore these materials are normally 100% stable.

5. Question: If these products don’t creep, why would anyone use anything else?

Answers:

Any archer who requires maximum speed will find that a Vectran blended product is slightly slower than a 100% Dyneema® or Spectra product.

6. Question: What is the fastest non-creep string material?

Answers:

For most compound bows, we recommend 24/26 strands of X-99®. Many recurve shooters like 8125®, which is 100% Dyneema®, shoot fast and have low creep.

7. Question: Is it a fact that the lower the thread count, the faster the arrow?

Answers:

Yes, on most bows but not all and of course with today’s extremely strong materials a lower number of strands can usually be safely used. Of course, care must be taken to build up the center layup to allow for a good nock fit when reducing the number of string strands. Also note that at a certain point, not too far below the manufacturer’s recommended number of strands, the archer will almost certainly notice an increase in vibration right after the release, as there is insufficient mass in the string to support the ” to absorb elastic energy. this is what happens when the arrow is released.

Note that HMPE products like Dyneema® and Spectra tend to creep more when fewer strands are used. “Elevated temperatures and higher draw weights exacerbate this problem.”

8. Question: Are there string materials that are better for some bows than others?

Answers:

Bow manufacturers make their choice of string material based on many criteria, but primarily on safety and performance. Performance – means speed, little or no creep, vibration and durability. Bow manufacturers carry out extensive tests. Some place a higher priority on certain criteria than others, but all are very security conscious.

9. Question: Is it possible to use a different string than the one that comes with the bow from the factory?

Answers:

Usually yes, unless there are strict recommendations from the bow manufacturer. Make sure using a different string does not void the warranty. Be sure to use the correct number of strands of the new material you plan to use.

10. Question: Is it necessary to use “special” wax with certain bowstring materials?

Answers:

Not really. There are four main reasons for using wax on a bowstring.

1. To lubricate the fibers and prevent “fiber-to-fiber” abrasion

2. To help hold the “bunch” of strands together

3. To maintain and extend the life of the string

4. To prevent water absorption

BCY applies a generous amount of liquid synthetic wax that ensures the bowstring material is well lubricated inside and out from the start. It is this process that gives the material its fundamental protection from fiber-to-fiber abrasion and helps hold the bundle of strands together. Generally, the type of wax used would be a good quality standard “sticky” wax. At this stage, it would be unusual if the wax contained silicone, which is very slippery and makes it difficult to convert the bowstring material into a finished bowstring, especially with Flemish strings. However, after the string is made, it is recommended that the archer look for a “care wax” that contains some silicone, as a wax mixed with silicone penetrates the string material very well and keeps the inner fibers as well as the outside lubricated. Wax can be applied with your fingers, with a cloth or with a chamois leather. It should be applied frequently and rubbed well into the string.

11. Question: Is it ok to wax the serving material on a bowstring?

Answers:

It’s best to limit waxing except to areas of extreme wear. A crossbow’s middle casing needs to remain lubricated, but there is no need to wax compound/recurve middle casings.

12. Question: How many twists can be put in a bowstring?

Answers:

There are three reasons for twisting a bowstring –

1. To keep the bundle of strands together

2. Shortening the string after creep (adjusting the draw length)

3. To correct peep rotation

For a standard compound bow, initially 1/2 to 3/4 turns per inch is a recommended range; That means on a 60 inch string you should apply 30 to 45 twists. If you are using a material that does not creep then no further twisting is required. Obviously, single cam strings may require more twists as the string is longer. We have found that a higher level of twist reduces peep rotation.

13. Question: Does twisting reduce creep?

Answers:

Not really. Finally, polyethylene fibers such as Spectra and Dyneema® creep under high temperature and high tension. Twisting accommodates the elongation (creep) that has occurred, but does not prevent it from continuing.

14. Question: Is there a difference in the durability of a string made of colored material instead of black or white?

Answers:

no

15. Is there a difference in string gauge of colored bowstrings compared to natural or black?

Answers:

For each individual bowstring material, all colors are made from the same raw material such as black or natural. In order to achieve solid colors, especially fluorescent ones, it is necessary to use more color pigments during production. This allows the diameter of the finished bowstring strand to be increased. But remember that the uncoated base string is the same size.

When using fluorescent colors it may be necessary to decrease the size of your middle portion; or even drop a few strands to get your preferred cam fit. Of course, different bowstring materials have different sizes.

16. Question: Are there any advantages to using a braided string as opposed to the standard twisted product?

Answers:

We made braided bowstring material many years ago and looked at it many times. Braided material is generally expensive. It does not improve the bowstring’s creep properties and usually decreases arrow speed.

17. Question: What is the lifespan of a bowstring?

Answers:

This depends on many factors, but primarily on the number of shots and the condition of the equipment. If an archer shoots a heavy weight bow every day and uses a caliper trigger, the string should be checked very frequently. (Using a string loop increases string life.) With a lower pound bow, there would be significantly less wear from finger shooting, hence much longer string life. But again, it is the archer’s responsibility to check the string and keep it waxed. There are no rules. We know that thousands of shots can be achieved with the high quality synthetic materials used today. Archers should also check for telltale signs of trouble such as abrasion (blurring), high strands (indicating a strand break under the portion), or excessive peep rotation – which can be an indication that a strand might be broken.

There are many reasons for a broken string. One of the most common is burrs in the cams/wheels of compound bows. It is the archer’s responsibility to carefully inspect the string before each shooting. As previously mentioned, thousands of shots can be scored if the string is properly inspected and maintained.

18. Question: How to make a zebra cord?

Answers:

You can not. It is a patented product made by Mathews from a specially engineered material. You can make standard two-tone cords.

19. Question: What is the best center serving?

Answers:

62XS and Powergrip both grip well and have high durability. Halo™ is very robust and popular with many finger shooters.

20. Question: What is the best final packaging?

Answers:

For ends on modern compound bows, lathed Spectra material is usually best. Check out our 3D; It fits comfortably in most cams/wheels without riding up the sidewalls and causing abrasion. When smaller diameter end wraps are needed, we offer 2X Twisted Spectra (slightly smaller than 3D); or 008″ Twisted Spectra, which is about 1/2 the size of 3D. Halo™ .014″ is also a good option; it is small and sturdy.

62XS, 62 and Powergrip can also be used for the final serve, usually in size .014.

For traditional bows, 400 nylon is a good choice.

21. Question: How firmly should the serving material be applied?

Answers:

Firm enough to hold the portion in place and prevent it from separating. That’s not very specific, but it does mean that there can be problems if you hit it too hard. In the middle you’re squeezing the tendon material, which can cause problems at a point where flexing occurs, and at the ends if the wrap is too tight it will “tear” when flexed around the cam, especially when the bow is mounted with a radical cam. So experiment with serving materials with some adhesive coating like 62XS and Powergrip.

22. Question: What is the difference between Spectra and Dyneema®?

Answers:

Not very much. Both products are HMPE (High Modulus Polyethylene) materials. This product was originally developed by DSM in Europe and licensed to Allied Chemicals for production in the United States. BCY introduced Dyneema® to the archery market in 1995 with its DynaFLIGHT bowstring material made from SK65 Dyneema®. In 1997 DSM began manufacturing SK75, a higher strength, lower creep Dyneema® and BCY introduced this in 1997 with DynaFLIGHT 97® bowstring material.

There are some minor differences between the Spectra and Dyneema® products that really don’t affect performance as a bowstring. These would be the number of filaments and the actual composition of the yarn. In general, SK65 Dyneema® is the same as Spectra 1000 and SK75 Dyneema® is the same as Spectra 2000. Note that Spectra 2000 is not available in thick yarns needed for making bowstring material.

The main advantages of Spectra and Dyneema® over other fibers previously used in bowstrings are their extremely high strength and durability. The high strength results in very low creep.

Technical information for both products is available on the internet if you are looking for more technical data. There are only 2 real manufacturers of Dyneema® and Spectra. A Japanese manufacturer is licensed to manufacture a Dyneema® product. HMPE from China is not Dyneema® or Spectra.

23. Question: Fringes 452X® or X-99® from?

Answers:

All bowstring materials will fray or fray if not properly cared for ie waxed regularly, so I guess the question is – does 452 fray more than other bowstring materials?

Early production of 452 bowstring material included fibers lubricated with silicone. The silicone has been found not to mix with our standard bowstring wax which is applied during manufacture. This caused 452 material to dry out quickly, causing a dry string to fray.

The fibers are no longer lubricated with silicone. We now use a special lubricant that mixes well with our current production wax. This keeps the 452 well lubricated. All current production 452 shows no more linting or fraying than any other bowstring material. 452 is now 452X®.

Also note that the percentage of Vectran in 452X® is approximately 33%. The lower the Vectran content, the higher the durability, the faster the arrow speed and the less fraying. X-99® has the lowest percentage of Vectran; 13%.

24. Question: Do bowstrings perform the same on different bows?

Answers:

no It is generally accepted that small diameter string materials made of 100% Spectra or Dyneema®, such as B. 8125®, shoot faster, but of course stability and creep must be taken into account.

The width of the wheel tracks and the design of the compound bows can make a difference. Some arches have very wide and friendly wheel tracks, and speed tests have shown that mixed materials like X-99® and 452X® are not much slower than 8125® on these arches.

In some compound bows, particularly those with narrow wheel tracks, the use of string material with a high Vectran content has resulted in problems such as sudden catastrophic failures.

So the answer really is that all archers’ opinions about string material relate directly to the bow they are using and it is wrong to assume that the results are the same for other bows.

25. Question: Bowstring material used to be made from Dacron, then from Fastflight. Now we see Dyneema®, Spectra and HMPE. What are these materials and which one is the best?

Answers:

HMPE means “High Modulus Polyethylene”. Spectra and Dyneema® are both HMPE materials. BCY primarily uses Dyneema® for bowstring material and Spectra for serving material. Products referred to as HMPE are made from either Spectra or Dyneema®. Spectra and Dyneema® are both very, very strong. Fractures are rare in both materials. However, with SK75 or SK90 Dyneema® there is less creep (elongation) because it is stronger. Breaks can be caused by abrasion, rough spots on the bow ends, etc., but not by fiber strength if the correct number of strands is used.

Which is the best? Conclusion… In our opinion… Dyneema® SK90 or SK75, the strongest HMPE yarns available in suitable sizes for bowstring material. BCY uses 100% Dyneema® or a blend of Dyneema® and Vectran in most of its bowstring materials. We recently added SK78 for crossbows.

26. Question: What is the best string material for a modern recurve bow?

Answers:

First of all, it is important to ensure that the bow is designed for shooting with the modern, high-strength bowstring materials. If in doubt, use polyester (Dacron) to avoid breaking the tip of the limb. Which string material is best for recurves? It’s not an easy question. We know top recurve shooters use our 8125® and DynaFLIGHT 97®. So there really isn’t a clear recommendation, but we do see a preference for Dyneema®, which offers high strength and durability. With lighter weight recurves, fewer strands can be used, increasing arrow speed, especially when the draw length is short. X-99® also performs well on recurves.

27. Question: What is the best string material for a crossbow?

Answers:

100% Dyneema® is recommended for safety and speed. This leads to DynaFLIGHT 97®. -26 or 28 strands are usually used. Due to the extremely high strength of the string, creep is usually not an issue. A slightly harder Dyneema is used in the BCY Force 10 crossbow string. Use our braided Spectra center wrap and 3D end wrap.

Thank you for your interest in BCY products.

Have you ever felt a strange vibration while driving your vehicle, or did it stall when you turned the key or pressed the gas pedal? These are signs that something is wrong and you need to take your vehicle in for service. In the same way, arcs can become detuned over time, resulting in poor performance even if you do everything right. Rather than blaming yourself for repeated misses, maybe it’s time to take your bow to a pro shop for some fine-tuning.

David Bennett, branch manager of Ross Outdoors in Phoenix, Arizona, said, “Bow tuning is the art of tuning a bow so that the bow and arrow work in harmony to deliver a straight and accurate shot at the archer’s desired distance.”

Bow manufacturers have set specifications for their bows. These specifications are guidelines for getting the best durability and performance from the bow, and they include measurements such as strut height and axle-to-axle length. On some bows, specifications such as cam timing are also factory set, although these may need to be adjusted over time. Retailers can customize a bow’s draw weight and length to suit the archer. Tuning a bow involves adjustments to the arrow rest, arrows, nock position, and nock timing. A bow can be set right and in spec, but it can also be out of tune.

Arrows fly erratically when the bow is out of tune. Photo credit: Ross outdoors

Bennett has 16 years experience at Ross Outdoors. He said there are several reasons a bow might go out of tune and perform poorly or throw wild arrows after previously working well. For example, as strings and cables age, they can stretch, twist, and become damaged. New strings can also stretch slightly and “settle” into the nock grooves or under the envelopes (the protective sheath over the string that covers the arrow’s nock point). Purchasing new arrows or an arrow rest, or changing draw weight and length can also affect a bow’s performance.

“An archer can tell their bow may be out of tune when arrows fly differently or erratically, or when the bow suddenly exhibits more vibration and noise,” Bennett said.

Whether for competition or hunting, it is important for a bow to be as efficient and accurate as possible. A well-tuned bow also helps the archer feel confident that their arrow will hit where it aims.

Bennett said a bow should be tuned (i.e. inspected and serviced) regularly, which he defines as every three to six months. He said that people who shoot a large batch of arrows should replace their strings every six months, while everyone else should replace theirs at least every two years — even if the bow has sat. If you get new arrows, a new string or rest, or if you notice string stretching or change your draw weight or draw length, it is a good idea to have your bow tuned.

A typical bow tuning service costs $40-$70 and takes about an hour. However, more advanced tuning services may cost more and take longer. Ross Outdoors has a Scout tuning package that costs $100 an hour and includes multiple tuning services. Bennett said that most beginner and intermediate archers shoot great with a default setting, but some intermediate archers want archers to customize their bow to suit their individual needs.

“In my many years of bow tuning and working with clients, it really comes down to the client, their preferences and figuring out exactly what they want to achieve so we can tailor the tuning service specifically for them,” said he.

tuning methods

Make sure your arrows hit evenly. Photo credit: Ross outdoors

Most bow techs begin the tuning process by bringing the bow back to manufacturer specifications. Then they use one or more different tuning styles depending on the problem of the bow or the customer’s request. Each style tests the individual components of the bow to ensure everything is working together to make a perfect shot. Bennett outlined several tuning methods, including:

Paper tuning: “The most common method is to shoot (an arrow) through paper and adjust the cam timing, cam tilt or position and the rest to get a perfectly straight hole through the paper,” he said. “This can be done by manipulating the strings and cables, or by manipulating the cams with washers.”

“The most common method is to shoot (an arrow) through paper and adjust the cam timing, cam tilt or position and the rest to get a perfectly straight hole through the paper,” he said. “This can be done by manipulating the strings and cables, or by manipulating the cams with shims.” French tuning: “(This) is like a walk-back tune,” he said. “Once we’ve done the paper vote, we usually do a walk-back vote to ensure accuracy. My method is to shoot three darts at 20 yards, then go back to 40 yards and shoot another three darts with the same needle. You want all six arrows to line up perfectly (vertically). If your second group of arrows is on the right, adjust the rest to the left (and vice versa) to bring the arrows back in line with the top group.”

“(This) is like a walk-back tune,” he said. “Once we’ve done the paper vote, we usually do a walk-back vote to ensure accuracy. My method is to shoot three darts at 20 yards, then go back to 40 yards and shoot another three darts with the same needle. You want all six arrows to line up perfectly (vertically). If your second group of arrows is on the right, adjust the rest to the left (and vice versa) to bring the arrows back in line with the top group.” Bare-shaft tuning: “It shoots a wingless arrow at it and compares it with an arrow with wings on it,” Bennett said. “You start shooting at 5 yards and gradually work your way down to 20 yards. You are looking for a level shot. You shoot the fletched arrow and the fletched arrow side by side and you want both arrow shafts to hit the target equally, i. H. perfectly level with no angles.”

“It shoots an arrow without blades at it and compares it to an arrow with blades on it,” Bennett said. “You start shooting at 5 yards and gradually work your way down to 20 yards. You are looking for a level shot. You shoot the fletched arrow and the fletched arrow side by side and you want both arrow shafts to hit the target equally, i. H. perfectly flat with no angles.” Torque Tuning: “This method moves the visor in and out and the rest in and out for the most forgiveness possible,” he said. “You intentionally apply torque to the bow (with your grip) until you find the most forgiving balance (between sight and stillness) where you don’t get very drastic misses from left to right.”

“This method moves the sight in and out and the rest in and out to get the most forgiveness possible,” he said. “You intentionally apply torque to the bow (with your grip) until you find the most forgiving balance (between sight and stillness) where you don’t get very drastic misses from left to right.” Tuning with machines: “The Hooter Shooter is a machine that draws back a bow and fires an arrow,” he said. “It eliminates human error so you can see exactly how the bow works.” The Hooter Shooter and other machines don’t tune bows, but it does help bow technicians spot problems because they can watch bow function closely. It’s a great tool to help with other tuning techniques mentioned above.

By tuning your bow properly, you can make better, more accurate shots—and every bow needs tuning over time. Regular checks are key, and preventative maintenance can ward off potential problems.

This article was co-authored by wikiHow staff. Our trained team of editors and researchers validate articles for accuracy and completeness. wikiHow’s content management team carefully oversees our editorial team’s work to ensure that every article is backed by trusted research and meets our high quality standards. This article has been viewed 229,057 times.

Article overview

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Before you string a recurve bow, you should definitely buy a bow tensioner if you don’t already have one. Then place the large loop of the string over the top limb, the smaller loop over the bottom limb, and the string pouch over the top of the bottom limb. Next, hold the bow horizontally in your non-dominant hand, and then bend at the waist so you can step on the bowstring with both feet. Finally, pull the bow up while simultaneously sliding the string loop into the notch near the bow tip. To learn more, including how to tighten or loosen your bowstrings, read on.

question

Does it matter if the cables cross over the cable guard or under the cable guard?

Carter Herzig Community Answer

Some are crossed above and some are crossed below. It depends on the cams and the type of bow. A cable groove of the slide will have a deeper impression; This is for the inner cable if present. Once you have the cables installed in the slider, they should not touch at the crossing. The cables should be about 1/8 to 1/4 inch apart (this is for waxing and keeps them from rubbing). This should tell you if the crossover will be resting up or down. This is the case when the cables are installed by the manufacturer. Find a picture of your exact bow and see if it matches what you have set.