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Table of Contents
What gear ratio is best for speed?
In the real world, typical street machines with aspirations for good dragstrip performance generally run quickest with 4.10:1 gears.
What gear ratio is best for street racing?
If we have a daily driver, 2.55 to 3.25 gear ratios typically work best, whereas a street/strip application we would usually use a 3.42 to a 3.90 gear ratio, and race applications most commonly use a 4.10 and above gear ratios.
At what speed should I use 6th gear?
5th, or 6th gear (if you car has it) are termed as ‘overdrive’ gears. An overdrive gear allows your car to cruise at a high speed while maintaining low engine revolutions. You’ll use 5th or 6th gear for highway cruising at speeds of 60 mph to 70 mph and are ideal gears for best fuel economy.
What is the best final drive ratio?
For most street performance applications, a 10:1 final First gear ratio is usually considered optimal. The disadvantage of operating a 4.10:1 axle ratio on the street with a 1:1 high gear is excessive freeway engine speed.
Video: How to Select the Proper Gear Set for Your Vehicle
Hot rodding is all about relationships. No, we’re not talking about the kind your girlfriend or wife likes to talk about, but about the optimal mechanical ratios for your car’s performance. A few simple math formulas can help you select the right gear ratio and tire diameter to optimize your vehicle’s performance. Because high-performance cars are often used for both street and track use, outfitting a car for both usually requires a compromise. Vehicle speed, engine speed, overall gear ratio and tire diameter are all related to acceleration. For use on the race track, an engine must work in the speed range in which it delivers the most power. For on-road use, optimal fuel efficiency and engine life guarantee lower engine speeds. The good news is that with some basic information, you can have a car that’s impressive e.t. is on the drag strip and achieves plenty of drivability at low revs on the highway. Who said math isn’t fun?
What is in a relationship?
An automobile uses gear ratios in both the transmission and the drive axle to multiply power. The two ratios multiplied together result in the final drive ratio. Spend a few minutes in any bench racing session and you’ll soon hear rear axle gear ratios being discussed. For many high-performance cars, 3.73 s and 4.10 s are common gear choices. The rear gear ratio refers to the ratio between the ring gear and the pinion. The ratio is determined by simply dividing the number of teeth on the ring gear by the number of teeth on the pinion. For example, if we divide a 41 tooth ring gear by a 10 tooth pinion, we find that the gear ratio is 4.10:1 (41/10 = 4.10).
Tire diameter also affects a vehicle’s final drive ratio. If the tire diameter changes, the engine speed will also change at a given speed. We can demonstrate this with the simplified formula: RPM = (km/h x final gear ratio x 336*) / tire diameter (*see sidebar “Formulas for Success”). For example, at 65 mph, with a 30 inch tire diameter and a 4.10 final gear ratio, the engine speed is approximately 2,984 rpm – (65 mph x 4.10 final ratio x 336) / 30 inch diameter tire. If we reduce the tire diameter to 25 inches, the engine speed increases to 3,581 rpm. By installing shorter tires, the vehicle accelerates as if it had a 4.73 gear (higher value) without the cost of changing gears.
Because transmissions consist of multiple gears, the transmission allows the vehicle to accelerate quickly with lower gears and maintain a cruising speed with higher gears. In the 1960’s and 1970’s most gearboxes offered three or four gears with a 1:1 high gear. Using a TH400 as an example, first gear is 2.48:1, second gear is 1.48:1 and third gear is 1:1. Multiplying the 2.48 first gear by the 4.10 rear axle gives a final drive ratio of 10.16:1 (2.48 x 4.10 = 10.16). For most road performance applications, a 10:1 final first gear ratio is typically considered optimal. The disadvantage of running a 4.10:1 final drive ratio on the road with a 1:1 high gear is excessive highway engine speed.
Fortunately, today’s transmissions often use high overdrive ratios near 0.70:1 that allow for reduced engine speeds. Combine these overdrive transmissions with a 4.10 final drive ratio and you have a fuel friendly 2.87:1 final drive ratio (4.10 x 0.70 = 2.87) in high gear. A TH200-4R overdrive automatic uses a 2.74 first gear, 1.57 second, 1.00 third, and 0.67 overdrive. With this transmission’s first ratio of 2.74 combined with a final drive ratio of 3.73, the final drive ratio is >>10.22 (2.74 x 3.73 = 10.22). In overdrive, the axle ratio corresponds to a Bonneville-compatible 2.49:1.
multiply torque
Acceleration is all about torque. One way to accelerate faster is to multiply torque at low speeds to propel the vehicle forward. That’s what a torque converter does. The torque converter includes a component called the stator. The stator changes the direction of oil flow to the direction of rotation of the pump impeller and also contains a one-way clutch. This fluid diversion increases torque by applying the energy remaining in the oil.
By applying the basics of gear ratios and power levers, you can easily improve acceleration without paying too high a price for highway revs. It’s all in the relationships.
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Is 3.31 a good gear ratio?
Those ratios provide very good acceleration with gas V-8s and diesels. Trucks equipped with 8-, 9-, or 10-speed automatics may work well with 3.31 ratios as the new transmissions have lower 1st and 2nd gears than the old 4-, 5- and 6-speeds, helping offset the axle ratio acceleration deficit.
Video: How to Select the Proper Gear Set for Your Vehicle
axle ratio. It’s one of those techy optional items that new pickup buyers often ask questions about. Probably more than towing values and engine options.
That’s because manufacturers don’t believe that informing buyers of final drive ratio options will help sell their trucks or influence a buyer’s final decision-making process.
As such, there is very little, if any, axle ratio information in their brochures or on their websites.
However, choosing the right final drive ratio makes a difference in the performance of a pickup truck, be it empty, with a trailer, or with a heavy load on the bed. Final drive ratio also affects fuel economy on the open highway.
So here is the summary for selecting the best final drive ratio:
FUEL ECONOMY: When it comes to fuel economy, think of final drive ratio as the amount of fuel burned over a period of time when the truck is traveling at highway speeds.
HWT insights: final drive ratio advice from Ford, Ram and GM
For example, a truck with an axle ratio of 3.31 would use less fuel at motorway speeds than one with a ratio of 3.55. This is because the 3.31 ratio keeps the engine speed lower than the 3.55 ratio.
Likewise, a 3.55 ratio would get better mpg at highway speeds than 3.73 seconds—all other things being equal.
How much better mpg? Generally around 0.5-1.0 mpg at 65 mph for every 0.25 increase in final drive ratio. (It is important to note that when driving around town there is a negligible difference in fuel economy between final drive ratios.)
PERFORMANCE: The larger the final drive ratio, the faster the truck will accelerate. For example, a truck with a 3.55:1 final drive ratio will accelerate faster than one with a 3.31 final drive ratio.
Likewise, a pickup with an axle ratio of 3.73 is faster than one with 3.55 s. It doesn’t matter whether the truck is empty or loaded. It’s purely mechanical.
BEST PULL RATIO: Generally, the best pull axle ratio for most post-2010 pickups is 3.55 or 3.73. These ratios make for very good acceleration with both V-8 petrol engines and diesel engines.
Trucks with 8, 9 or 10 speed automatics may work well with 3.31 gear ratios because the new transmissions have lower 1st and 2nd gears than the old 4, 5 and 6 speed transmissions, which helps make up the acceleration deficit of the final drive ratio.
BEST MPG RATIO: If best fuel economy is a priority, choose the lowest numerical number offered, e.g. e.g. 3.08, 3.23 or 3.31. This applies to motorway driving; Urban mpg isn’t really affected by final drive ratio. If you’re doing a mix of the two, choose the “standard” final drive ratio offered by the manufacturer.
What gear ratio is better for torque?
A numerically higher axle ratio provides a mechanical advantage to send more of the engine’s available torque to the rear tires (and front tires, in a four-wheel drive vehicle), but you pay the price at the fuel pump. So, a truck with optional 3.73 gears will tow a heavier trailer than one with 3.55 or 3.21.
Video: How to Select the Proper Gear Set for Your Vehicle
One tricky thing about choosing a final drive ratio is that the EPA window decal fuel economy information is primarily for the “base” or standard final drive ratio, although that particular truck may have an optional final drive ratio, says Dan Edmunds, director of vehicle testing for Edmunds. Therefore, any final drive ratio that you see on the window decal options page will lower the fuel economy figures printed on the same decal.
Another difficulty is that optional final drive ratios and their impact on towing cannot be compared between truck manufacturers, says Dan Edmunds. That’s because each truck manufacturer can use a different tire size, and the tire itself acts as the last “gear” in the system. It’s best to compare axle options within a single brand to see how each affects the tow ratings listed in that brand’s tow manual, he says.
When you buy your truck you may hear lower number final drive ratios called “high” gears and higher numbered final gears called “short” gears. To more easily remember what this means, imagine a tall person walking a greater distance with each step. Similarly, a long transmission keeps moving the truck with each revolution of the engine. Trucks with high gears deliver better gas mileage because their engines are making fewer revolutions per minute at a given road speed. However, higher gears also reduce torque – or horsepower – so you can’t tow heavier trailers or haul heavier loads.
Ram and other manufacturers recommend truck buyers look at the towing capacity and payload charts on their websites. They are there to help customers select the right powertrain for their specific needs. As truck manufacturers produce transmissions with more gears, final drive ratios will also change. For example, a transmission with more gears could allow a truck manufacturer to offer a higher rear axle ratio (3.55 instead of 3.73) and still provide improved towing and hauling capabilities.
Before you drive to the dealership, take a moment to think about how you will be using the truck. If in doubt, select a higher numerical axis ratio as standard. While it cuts your fuel economy somewhat, it also means you’re more comfortable hauling and towing long distances.
But if getting better fuel economy at highway speeds is your concern, a numerically lower drive axle ratio might suit you, as could a transmission with more gears.
Is it OK to accelerate in 6th gear?
Sixth gear is meant for cruising and gas mileage. It’s not going to hurt the car to floor it in 6th. Just remember that sixth gear is 50% overdriven so there’s not going to be too much power there.
Video: How to Select the Proper Gear Set for Your Vehicle
What gear should I be in at 40 mph?
Fourth gear—30-40 mph.
Video: How to Select the Proper Gear Set for Your Vehicle
While every engine and transmission is different, in general you can plan to use your gears at the following speeds:
First gear – 0 to 10 mph
Second gear – 10 to 20 mph
Third gear – 20 to 30 mph
Fourth gear – 30-40 mph
Fifth Gear – 40+ if you drive a five speed. If you drive a six-speed, stay in fifth gear until you no longer need to accelerate.
Sixth gear – when cruising from 40
Once you get the hang of it, you’ll find the sweet spots for each gear in your car. It can be a bit frustrating at first, but patience pays off as this is an excellent skill!
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MORE: How to drive stock or manual cars
What gear should you be in at 30 mph?
Third gear is a very flexible gear in modern cars, including diesel cars, and it’s the ideal gear when you need to keep your speed to 30mph or under.
Video: How to Select the Proper Gear Set for Your Vehicle
The subject of speed, speed limits, speed cameras and using the most appropriate gear for a given speed often causes confusion and misunderstandings.
A MORI survey commissioned by the BBC’s Today program found that 74% of drivers find their car tends to creep over 50km/h without realizing it. Also, 54% of drivers felt they should be in fourth or fifth gear when attempting to go consistently at 50km/h!
More collisions happen in 50km/h zones than any other, so it’s important to limit them to 30km/h – because that’s where people die or get injured. 75% of all auto insurance claims arise from accidents in 30-mile zones, but less than 4% of claims come from highways.
With few exceptions, the IAM finds that drivers who increase their speed in the 30 and 40 mph zones do so as a direct result of an impulsive upshift into higher gears, rather than consciously selecting the gear most appropriate for the circumstances. There are a few reasons why they do this.
At lower RPM in a lower gear, an engine will be more audible in a certain RPM range than in the same RPM range at a higher speed (* see below). A high gear at low speeds will cause an engine to “judder”, causing the driver to subconsciously increase power to achieve a more comfortable ride. Up until the 1990s, cars in general were so unreliable that drivers in the basic driving tests were taught to shift into top gear as early as possible so as not to “…overheat or stress the engine”! Thanks to the construction standard of motor vehicles before the 1990s, we still have the annual vehicle inspection (TÜV) today!
Our experience in driver training is that many drivers don’t realize that third gear is so flexible. Many modern cars today have a usable third gear range from as little as 24 km/h up to 100 km/h and beyond. Today, all petrol-powered cars have more powerful engines, with revs in the upper range between 6000 and 7000 rpm (almost double what it was 30 years ago), allowing drivers to drive for hours and days at 110 km/h along motorways without fear against engine damage.
*But here is the essential part that many drivers may not know! Depending on the car model, your engine speed (rpm) at 110 km/h in 5th gear is between 2900 and 3300 rpm; just as if you were in second gear in 30 mph zones and third gear in 40 mph zones! Drivers can corroborate these numbers by asking a passenger to record their tachometer readings while driving. You might be in for a surprise! Unless you’re an advanced driver, however, we don’t expect all drivers to engage second gear in 30mph zones, but we strongly recommend using third gear.
The benefits of engaging third gear in 30 mph zones are numerous:
By engaging third gear you have more control over your vehicle as you can control both engine braking and acceleration very effectively. Since you can hear the increase in engine tone, you are audibly in touch with your vehicle’s speed. By staying in third gear (and because you have to press your accelerator further to reach a higher speed than in fourth or fifth), you have even more control at speed limits of 30 km/h. Your probability of staying within the speed limit increases immeasurably.
Third gear is a very flexible gear in modern cars, including diesel cars, and it’s the ideal gear when you need to maintain your speed at 30 mph or less. The IAM has a simple maxim. “Choose the right speed for the danger – then choose the right gear for the speed”. At 30mph this gear should always be no higher than third!
In built-up areas, advanced drivers often drive in second gear at 30 km/h.
Are 4.10 gears good for highway?
Installing 4.10 gears improves the car’s performance on the track but with negligible effects to the highway driving. If your car is equipped with an overdrive, you may not even notice a difference in gas mileage with the new higher gearing.
Video: How to Select the Proper Gear Set for Your Vehicle
To be a serious threat on the drag track, it’s necessary to upgrade your gear ratio to at least 4.10 gears. Most newer Mustang models and many other sports cars come standard with 3.55 gears in their rear differential, but by adding 4.10 gears they can effectively reduce their drag times and deliver more power to the wheels faster.
Gear ratio has a lot to do with how your car performs and drives under load. The gear ratio is the ratio of how many times your engine has to turn the crankshaft to turn the rear wheels one revolution. So the higher the gear ratio (4.10 gears versus 3.55 gears), the higher the gear ratio and the greater the RPM before the rear wheels spin. This corresponds to a greater amount of power being transferred to the wheels.
The incorporation of 4.10 gears improves the car’s performance on the track, but with negligible effects on highway driving. If your car is equipped with an overdrive, you may not even notice a difference in gas mileage with the new higher gearing. Depending on the transmission you have installed, you may even be able to adjust the overall ratio so that your car’s final drive is nearly the same in overdrive, but still allows you to take advantage of the new ratio in the lower transmission gears.
The main disadvantages of installing 4.10 gears are in the implementation of transmission modifications in general. If the gearing in your differential is changed significantly, the speedometer calibration will likely be affected, making your speedometer inaccurate. The new gearing may also affect the transmission’s shift points (on automatic transmissions, but this is not a problem on manual transmissions). Custom tuning by a qualified speed shop is usually a good solution to both problems.
Shifting from a 3.55 or 3.73 gear set to 4.10 gears will have a small impact on your gas mileage as your engine spins multiple times to spin the rear wheels once. In most cases, you can expect a 1 to 2 mile per gallon drop.
For the same reason, there are a few telltale signs that can indicate when a manual or automatic transmission is in trouble. Smooth operation is ideal for both automatic and manual transmissions. Strange noises and rough gear changes can be the first indication that something is starting to fail internally. If you act quickly when things are feeling a little weird, you can keep repair bills to a minimum.
In a manual transmission, a grinding noise that occurs when shifting gears can be due to a worn synchro. It could also be an indication of a low fluid level, so it’s wise to check the fluid level at the first sign of noise.
A manual transmission that is difficult to shift into gear could have problems with the linkage system that connects the shifter to the transmission. On some cars, these connections can be realigned to restore smooth shifting. This could also indicate a problem with the clutch hydraulic system, so a little troubleshooting may be needed to find the real culprit.
A slipping clutch is usually indicated by an increase in engine RPM without an increase in vehicle speed. Fortunately, there is a simple test to check for this condition. It is performed by accelerating from a low rpm through the engine’s peak powerband (where it achieves its optimum power and torque) in fourth gear. Liberal use of the accelerator in these situations will generally result in a weak clutch slipping without real risk of damage.
Automatics can be a bit more difficult to diagnose. Just like their manual counterparts, a flare in RPM during acceleration can indicate a slipping clutch. Because automatic transmissions use a number of different clutches, the problem may be specific to one gear.
Shifting operations that are too rough in all gears can also indicate problems. Luckily, modern automatics are computer controlled, meaning they can be queried with a technician’s scan tool. This is an excellent way to start diagnosing shift issues.
The overwhelming variety of transmission designs and configurations means that shift quality and feel will vary greatly from car to car. Because of this, it’s important to become familiar with how a particular transmission (manual or automatic) feels when it’s working properly. If something doesn’t feel right in a vehicle you use every day, there’s a good chance something is wrong. If such problems are given prompt attention, acting early can alleviate future headaches.
What is best rear axle ratio?
The most popular rear end ratio in trucks today is the 3:55, which sort of averages towing power and fuel economy. This is a good ratio for the occasional towing or hauling individual. For a person who tows more often, and heavier loads, the 3:73 or 4:10 may be more appropriate.
Video: How to Select the Proper Gear Set for Your Vehicle
When I get these questions I always ask what rear axle ratio the caller has and I would estimate that 90% of the time the caller has no idea. People go to dealerships far too often to focus on color, comfort, engine size, etc. Rear axle ratio should be at the top of the list no matter what you are going to use your pickup for. When you’re not towing you want the best fuel economy you can get, and when you’re towing you want to make sure your truck is getting the job done.
Car manufacturers offer a variety of final drive ratios
It is not for nothing that car manufacturers offer a large number of different final drive ratios. Final drive ratio refers to the gears in the truck’s differential, a mechanical device that connects the rear axle to the driveshaft and then to the engine. Trucks with all-wheel drive have a matching ratio in the front axle differential.
The first step to understanding final drive ratios is knowing what the numbers mean. The lower the number, the better the fuel economy, and the higher the number, the more pulling power you have, but fuel economy suffers. For example, a 3:31 gives better fuel economy than a 3:73. On the other hand, a 3:73 or maybe a 4:10 will pull a lot more while fuel economy drops a lot. The most popular rear axle ratio on trucks today is 3:55, which is a kind of average drawbar pull and fuel economy. This is a good ratio for the occasional towing or towing of people. For a person who tows more frequently and with heavier loads, 3:73 or 4:10 may be more appropriate.
A lot has changed in final drive ratios in the last 5 years. Today we see half ton trucks with 6 cylinder or small V8 engines that can tow almost 12,000 pounds. Not so long ago you had to go for a ¾ ton truck with a big V8, V10 or diesel engine. Much has been learned over the past decade about the effects of rear wheel ratios.
If you are going to switch to a diesel engine, you need to be aware that the power rating and torque of the engine will have a large impact on the rear you need. For example, a 2015 Ford F-350 diesel with a 3:31 rear axle ratio will tow 14,000 pounds, but you can go as much as 19,000 pounds with the same truck that has a 3:73 rear end.
Please investigate
It is important that you do your own research before purchasing a truck. Unfortunately, not nearly enough dealership salespeople understand rear axle ratios and how they can affect a vehicle’s performance. Generally, new trucks have the rear axle ratio right on the window decal. An important note: the fuel economy figures on the window decals reflect the ratio that comes standard with a given truck and does not take into account any optional ratios. In most cases, trucks are rated at around a 3:55 ratio, so going to 3:31 and 3:73 doesn’t change what the window sticker says.
trailer towing operator
The good news is that a quick Google search will find all manufacturers’ trailer tow guides. That’s why it’s important to get your trailer before you get your truck. Find the right truck based on the total weight of your trailer. If it’s a trailer, make sure you add content that goes inside. Carrying water, clothing, canned food, butane, etc. can add a lot of weight. If it’s a cargo trailer, what’s the biggest weight you’ll be towing?
Finally lean up. When transporting loads, it is better to have too many trucks than too few.
Photo credit: Ford.
This article was last updated on June 14, 2022.
Is it better to have more or less gears for racing?
In top gear, your car is working too hard to overcome a gearing disadvantage (higher gears mean less wheel torque) to accelerate. The more gears a transmission has, the more flexibility it has to find the most efficient engine speed for a given wheel speed.
Video: How to Select the Proper Gear Set for Your Vehicle
Just because companies do something doesn’t mean it’s a great idea from a technical perspective. A perfect example is that many modern CVT transmissions have stepped gears where the CVT simulates a range of gear ratios to allow the driver to feel the upshifts like people are used to. Although a more efficient algorithm is possible, it is the best way to attract potential buyers. In this case, marketing beats technology, and that’s not as rare as it sounds. However, there are legitimate reasons why cars are seeing eight, nine and even 10 speed transmissions: Efficiency Faster acceleration Higher top speed People hate CVTs
1. Efficiency
Understanding the efficiency benefit of using multiple gears is fairly easy. There are some general rules of thumb, such as B. the fact that the most efficient way to drive at a set speed is often to use the lowest possible RPM. Lower RPM means less friction loss and fewer power strokes per minute, resulting in better fuel economy. Now it gets more complicated, because accelerating in the highest possible gear is not necessarily the most efficient. In top gear, your car is working too hard to overcome a gearbox disadvantage (higher gears mean less wheel torque) to accelerate. The more gears a transmission has, the more flexibility there is in finding the most efficient engine speed for a given wheel speed. This is a big part of the appeal of CVTs, as it allows you to dial in exactly the ideal ratio at any given time.
2. Faster acceleration
The Aston Martin Vanquish will be the poster child for much of this article, proving what a simple transmission upgrade can do for performance. When the Vanquish switched from a six-speed to an eight-speed ZF transmission, the 0-60 mph time dropped from 4.1 to 3.6 seconds, all with the same engine. How is that possible? Let’s say the six-speed transmission tops out at 80 mph in second gear. Now let’s say the 8 speed offers a shorter ratio as there are more ratios to choose from, allowing it to hit 65 mph in second gear. Because the 8-speed offers more aggressive ratios, wheel torque is higher up to 65 mph, improving acceleration. Equally impressive is that Aston Martin has packed this gearbox into the same transaxle size as the previous six-speed gearbox, while remaining nearly identical in weight and dimensions. While more gear ratios can allow for more wheel torque at certain speeds, it’s worth noting that more gear changes result in more time being spent not accelerating.
3. Higher top speed
With a simple gear change, the Aston Martin Vanquish went from a top speed of 186 mph to the elite club of 200 mph (201 mph, to be precise). As? The simplest explanation would assume that the previous Vanquish was gear limited and thus limited to the top speed of the last gear. Accelerating to that speed is all about wheel torque. I ran the calculations based on the transmission, and the eight-speed Vanquish tops out at 201.5 mph in 6th gear. But you don’t want such an aggressive highway driving gear in the car, so higher gear ratios are used for seventh and eighth gears. To put it simply, Aston Martin built a gearbox that allowed it to hit 201 mph precisely; it’s designed to be as aggressive as possible to reach that top speed.
4. People hate CVTs
Which gear is the fastest in a bicycle?
High Gear = Hard = Good for Descending: The “highest” gear on your bike is the largest chain ring in the front and the smallest cog on your cassette (rear gears). In this position, the pedaling will be the hardest and you’ll be able to accelerate while traveling downhill.
Video: How to Select the Proper Gear Set for Your Vehicle
Shift 101: How and when to use your gears
Along with the brakes, shifting gears is one of the basic mechanical functions of your bike. Learning to shift gears may seem easy, but practicing shifting gears and shifting efficiently is something even experienced riders can work on. The right gear ratio not only improves your speed, but also makes the ride more comfortable and increases your endurance on longer rides.
What is all this supposed to mean?!
One of the hardest things about learning to shift is the terminology. Low/High, Big/Small, Easy/Hard, Fast/Slow, Front/Back, Single, Twos, Threes… if your head is already spinning, you might want to brush up on the following vocabulary:
Low Gear = Easy = Good for Climbing: The “low” gear on your bike is the smallest front chainring and largest cog on your cassette (rear gears). In this position, pedaling is easiest and you can pedal uphill with the least resistance. Getting into this position is called a “downshift”.
High gear = hard = good for ramping down: The “highest” gear on your bike is the largest front chainring and the smallest cog on your cassette (rear gears). In this position, pedaling is hardest and you can accelerate when going downhill. Getting into this position is called an “upshift”.
___-Speed Bike: When you were a kid, you probably bragged to your friends about how many “speeds” your bike had. Whether it was 7, 18, 21 speed etc you were referring to the number of gears you had on your bike. You can find this number by multiplying the number of sprockets in your cassette (rear gears) by the number of chainrings (front gears) on your bike. For example, if your bike has two chainrings and 11 sprockets in the cassette, then you have a 21-speed bike. However, high-end adult bikes are rarely referred to as such in the modern bike industry, as more doesn’t always mean better. More on that below!
One, Two, Three-by: The number of chainrings (front gears) on your bike will determine whether your drivetrain (the system of gears) is designated “one-by,” “two-by,” or “three-by” . The current trend in the bicycle industry is to produce the same range of gears with fewer chainrings. The result is a larger cassette (rear cogs) that has more cogs and often more teeth on the largest cog in the cassette. Why? Because in general, the presence of fewer chainrings makes the bike more efficient, lighter and easier to use and adjust. For this reason, you often see one-by drives on high-end mountain bikes and two-by drives on high-end road bikes.
How to toggle: the basics
Now that you have a basic understanding of what these gears are called, how do you shift? Depending on the type of bike, your shifters may look slightly different. On road bikes (or any bike with drop bars), your shifters are the same levers you use to operate your brakes. To operate the shifters, push the lever sideways until you hear a click. On most mountain and hybrid bikes with flat handlebars, you shift gears with paddle shifters that you operate with your thumb. Some bikes work with “grip shifters” or a dial that is on the inside where you place your hands. With these systems, you change gears by turning the dial back and forth.
Your shifters are connected to a cable that is encased in a protective housing. As you shift through the gears, the cable tightens and loosens, putting more or less force on the derailleur, which moves your chain up and down on the cassette or chainrings. Below we explain what each lever does:
Left hand: Controls the front gears/front derailleur by moving the chain up and down on the chainrings. These levers cause large gear jumps in the event of sudden terrain changes.
Right hand: controls the rear gears/rear derailleur by moving the chain up and down in the cassette. These levers are for small adjustments to your transmission to use when the terrain changes slightly.
Large lever*: The larger of the two shift levers moves the chain into larger rings. So big = big. Shifting into the larger rings with the RIGHT hand makes pedaling EASIER. Shifting into the larger gears with the LEFT hand makes it MORE DIFFICULT.
Small lever*: The smaller of the two shift levers moves the chain into smaller rings. So small = small. Shifting into smaller rings with your RIGHT hand makes pedaling HEAVY. Shifting to the lower gears with your LEFT hand makes pedaling EASIER.
*You don’t have a big/small lever? You may have a SRAM street drivetrain that uses the “Double Tap” system. This means that behind the larger brake lever is a smaller lever that you can only move in one direction. A long press (two clicks) moves the chain into a larger, lighter gear in the rear (right) and a larger, harder gear in the front (left). A short press (one click) moves the chain into a smaller, harder gear in the rear (right) and a smaller, lighter gear in the front (left).
You may also have a grip shifter. This means you have a dial that you turn back and forth to change gears. Turning the dial forward shifts the chain to a smaller, harder gear in the rear (right) and a smaller, lighter gear in the front (left). Turning the dial back shifts the chain to a larger, lighter gear in the rear (right) and a larger, harder gear in the front (left).
cross concatenation
Cross-concatenation is a term that refers to being present in any of the following gear combinations:
BIG/BIG: The largest sprocket in the cassette (easiest gear) and the largest chainring (hardest gear)
SMALL/SMALL: The smallest sprocket in the cassette (hardest gear) and the smallest chainring (easiest gear)
In these positions, the chain is tensioned at an angle that, over time, can damage the drive train. Also, the chain could slip or cause the derailleur to make noise and not work properly.
Using the trim function
Some road bikes are equipped with a front derailleur that has a “trim” feature. Trimming allows you to make small adjustments to the derailleur that eliminate chain friction but don’t result in a complete swap to a different chainring. This feature comes in handy when approaching the cross-chaining positions mentioned above.
So if you are in the largest chainring and start shifting into the larger cassette cogs with your right hand, you may hear a grinding noise, which indicates your chain is rubbing against the derailleur. You can click the small lever once with your left hand to slightly move the derailleur to adjust this chain position. If you are on the smallest chainring and start shifting to smaller sprockets on the cassette and notice a grinding noise, you can easily move the derailleur by clicking the larger lever once with your left hand.
Effective and efficient switching techniques
Ok, here is the most important thing to remember when riding a bike: THERE ARE NO PERFECT EQUIPMENTS! CHANGE!
So often we see people putting too much power into their pedals when climbing a steep hill with the big chainring, or kicking their legs when spinning in a gear that’s too light for the descent they’re riding is. Your goal when riding should be to keep a cadence (the speed at which your pedals make a full revolution) as constant as possible! This requires one of two things: shifting or more power. The thing about power delivery is that unless you’re a wonder woman, you’re limited. We recommend shifting gears frequently to increase efficiency while driving.
Pro tip: Start shifting to easier gears with your right hand early to maintain a steady cadence. Remember, your right hand is for small changes in terrain. If you find your pedaling pace slowing down drastically, you probably need to use the front derailleur (your left hand) to make the gearing much easier for the big climb ahead. But if you’re already climbing the hill and putting a lot of power on the pedals, you might find that your derailleur doesn’t want to work! You will shift, hear a grinding noise, but nothing will happen and you will probably come to a stop in the middle of the hill.
Instead of grinding those gears, you need to put a little more power into your pedaling right before you shift and lighten your pedaling when shifting. With less pressure on your chain, your derailleur will have an easier time jumping your chain from the big ring to a smaller one!
Happy switching!
What is the relationship between gear ratio and speed?
The gear ratio is the ratio of input teeth to output teeth (e.g., with 10 teeth on the input and 20 teeth on the output, the gear ratio is 10/20 or 0.5 : 1 . The speed ratio is the ratio of output speed to input speed (e.g., with a gear ratio of 0.5 , the output speed will be 0.5 that of the input speed).
Video: How to Select the Proper Gear Set for Your Vehicle
Enter the number of teeth in each of your two gears. Make sure you know which is the driving gear and which is driven! Alternatively, to get the number of teeth for each gear for an appropriate gear ratio, you can enter the number of teeth of a gear and an appropriate gear ratio instead. Under the Gear Ratio box, we explain how the gear ratio affects the speed ratio between the input and output gears. You can also enter an input speed to find the output speed that corresponds to the two speed system created above.
And that’s it! Now you know how to use Gear Ratio Speed Calculator!
6-Speed vs 4-Speed Gear Ratios
See some more details on the topic best gear ratio for 6 speed here:
Best differential gear ratio w/6 speed? – CorvetteForum
lbs engine and a Tremec 6 speed transmission with the following gear ratios: 2.97 – 2.10 – 1.46 – 1.00 – 0.74 – 0.50. I think the current …
Source: www.corvetteforum.com
Date Published: 10/8/2021
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How to Choose the Right Gear Ratio for Your Muscle Car or …
With a 3.08:1 rear gear, the effective First gear ratio is equal to a 2.20:1 First gear Muncie four-speed with 4.56:1 rear gear. In the quarter- …
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what gears are best for 6speed for street/strip – LS1Tech.com
The best gear ratio for a 6 speed is 410’s . I have them in my car and they are great. jdmille5 , 11- …
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TREMEC Magnum Transmission Gear Ratio Options
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6-speed ls1…..best gear? – LS1LT1 Forum
i have a six speed ls1 with the stock rearend. I want gears, it’s just a matter of what ratio. 4.10’s or 3.73’s? It’s not an everyday driver …
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Best rear axle gear ratio for 6-speed manual trans
Best rear axle gear ratio for 6-speed manual trans · 0.25x. 0.5x. 1x Normal. 1.5x. 2x · TOP ARTICLES.
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Explained: Is a 6th gear needed and all about gear ratios
A 6 speed gearbox would give you nice spread of 1-4 speeds for traffic and 5-6 for highway cruising. Less clutch burn, less fatigue and higher …
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Info on 5 and 6 speed transmissions, final drive gears and …
5th .814 6 speed gear ratios: 1st 3.760 2nd 2.269 3rd 1.645 4th 1.257 5th 1.000 6th .843. Common final drive gears: 1990-93 5-speed 4.30
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Best gear ratio for 33s with NSG370 6-speed
Hey all, New guy here, Know there’s several threads about re-gearing and general consensus seems to be that 4.56 is best for 33’s with the 5 …
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Best Gear Ratio for 35’s, 6 speed, Rubicon Unlimited
Alright guys, based on all the searching I know that “best gear ratio” has been beat to death, but in all my searching I still don’t have a …
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Best differential gear ratio w/6 speed?
Leigh and others were very helpful in giving me some information when I asked the same type of question recently… if you search by my username, we’ve had some good discussions on this over the last month. Here is the direct link… You may enjoy reading through it as it very much applies to your question: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums…gear-swap.html I have the same gearbox as you, but a different gearing. I don’t think I have the 2.97 1st, but I do have a 2.66 1st. My T56 gears are as follows: Gear ratios: 2.66, 1.78, 1.30, 1.00, 0.74. .50 I also have a 3.36 rear gear and run 285/40-19 rear tires…slightly larger than stock but that’s what I wanted to ride. I don’t make the same power as my 468 BBC. Haven’t tested it on the rear wheels yet (was hoping this month but COVID might be messing with it)…but I’m guessing I have 500hp / 500tq on the motor (probably 410 or so on the rear). Wheels). With my level of performance, I think I could use more gear. Don’t get me wrong, the car runs very strong, but it has very long legs. 5500 rpm in 1st gear with my gear/tire configuration = 80 km/h, 2nd gear = 74 km/h. When I let off the clutch the tires boil for days but when I roll on the gas which is much more my driving style then my traction is very good IMHO. Anyway… when I do a gear change it’s at least 3.73 seconds. You may have too much power for this gearbox, but I think the better question for you is where is your engine making power? If you crank your motor to 6300-6500+ I would definitely go at least 3.73 seconds if not 4.10 seconds.
How Gear Works- Car Craft Magazine
So you threw a set of 4.10s in your rear axle because you want to go fast…but do you really have any idea what you’re doing? According to our reader survey, many of you are willing to admit that you really don’t.
Because of that, this story will cover the basics of gearing for beginners and share some of the physics of gearing that you hardcore guys might not have considered. We’ll also draw on some of our own experience to help you decide how to outfit your car for the street or the strip. It may be helpful if you first read the “Gearing Lingo” in the right column.
What is a gear ratio?
When you hear people refer to numbers like 3.08, 3.73 or 4.10 they are talking about the ratio of the sprockets in the rear axle – hence the numbers are more accurately 3.08:1, 3.73:1 , or 4.10:1. The gear ratio is the number of teeth on the driven gear (ring) divided by the number of teeth on the drive gear (pinion). So if the ring gear has 37 teeth and the pinion has 9 teeth, the gear ratio is 4.11:1. This also means that the pinion rotates 4.11 times for each revolution of the ring gear.
What do gears do?
In addition to changing the direction of power flow by 90 degrees (from the driveshaft to the axles), the rear wheel splines serve to multiply the torque delivered by the engine and transmission. Gears can be thought of as complex levers. In other words, they offer a mechanical advantage that multiplies the work – in this case torque – to help the engine’s power to move the vehicle. Lower gears are like a longer lever: they offer more mechanical advantage. Higher gears are like a shorter lever: they offer less mechanical advantage. It’s akin to using a long pry bar instead of a short ratchet handle to remove a stuck lug nut. Just as a long rod applies more torque to a lug nut, lower axle gears deliver more torque to the wheels.
It’s very easy to calculate the torque multiplication of your final drives – just multiply by the gear ratio. For example, let’s say the motor and gearbox deliver 100 lb-ft of torque to the pinion gear. When the ring gear ratio is 4.10:1, the output torque is 100 x 4.10 (410 lb-ft). When the gear ratio is 3.08:1, the output torque is 308 lb-ft. It’s easy to see that the lower 4.10:1 gears put more power to the ground than the higher 3.08:1 gears. Remember that the engine power has not changed, but the torque available at the tires has.
Final drive vs. engine speed
Considering that lower gears offer greater torque multiplication, it seems like they’re always the best choice for performance engagements. However, lower gears require higher input speed (engine speed) to produce the same output speed (tire speed). Higher gears multiply torque less, but require lower input speed to deliver the same output speed. The axle ratios therefore also determine the cruising speed of the engine.
Again, think of a long crowbar versus a short ratchet. With your hand on the other end of a pry bar (which is a longer lever, like on lower gears) the job is a lot easier, but to turn a lug nut a full turn your hand has to travel a much greater distance than with a smaller wrench (shorter lever, like higher gears) that has a smaller turning circle. Similarly, lower axle gears (longer lever) require more motor distance (more revolutions) per tire revolution than higher gears. To look at it another way, if the transmission is in a gear with a 1:1 ratio (like fourth gear on most four-speeds) and the rear gears are 3.08 seconds, then every revolution the engine needs to be 3, 08 turns the tire. Lower 4.10:1 gears would spin the engine 4.10 times for each revolution of the tire, so lower gears result in higher engine revs at any road speed.
Final drive vs. vehicle performance
If you continue to think of the example of removing lug nuts with the long or short wrench, it will help you understand how to set up your car for quarter mile acceleration. Anything you can do to reduce the resistance when turning the lug nut will allow you to either use a shorter wrench or use less effort; The lighter the car, the less effort is required to move it, the higher you can go with higher gears. Also, your muscular pal can probably loosen a lug nut with a short wrench, while a wimp needs a longer wrench; It’s the same with a car – the more input power (engine torque) the higher the gear you can use.
In the real world, typical street machines with aspirations for good dragstrip performance generally run fastest with 4.10:1 gears. Lower gears are required when the car is very heavy or the engine is outputting at the higher end of the rpm scale. Sometimes higher gears are used when the engine has low torque and doesn’t like revving at high revs – 455 Buicks, Olds and Pontiacs are perfect examples of cars that can go fast with 3.50:1 or 3.73:1 gearboxes . Also, nitrous oxide allows higher gears to be used, not only because it dramatically increases torque, but also because it causes engine RPM to rise rapidly. Add nitrous oxide and you might shift earlier, and if you’re halfway in top gear the engine will scream at the finish line. Using higher gears helps the nitro perform better under load and also helps keep the engine in its powerband all the way through.
Here’s a reason low gears can be beneficial for dragstrip performance that you probably never thought of. Let’s say a car has a 1:1 gear ratio, has 26 inch tires and 3.08:1 axle gearing. When accelerating from 80 to 110 km/h, the engine speed increases by around 800 rpm. Put 4.10:1 gears in the same car and the engine revs increase by 1060 rpm – the difference is 40 rpm on the 3.08s versus 53 rpm on the 4.10s. The greater rate of RPM increase over road speed provides greater acceleration. Because horsepower increases as engine speed increases (to the point where the torque curve drops more than engine speed), the engine can overcome loads in lower gears more easily than in higher gears. This helps not only when accelerating, but also in maintaining driving speed under load, for example when climbing a steep incline.
If you prefer top speed to dragstrip performance, higher final drive ratios such as 2.76:1 or 3.08:1 may be required. The higher gears reduce engine speed from road speed. Another way of looking at it is that the car drives faster at the engine’s rev limit than in lower gears. Low speed acceleration will suffer, but that can be cured with one of today’s five or six speed manual trannies, which offer lower first and second gears for acceleration and also feature overdrive for even more top speed – or whatever engine speed reduction on how you look at it.
Why does tire height affect cruising speed?
Sometimes you’ll hear people talk about “effective gear ratio” to explain the drop in cruising RPM after installing larger tires or the increase in RPM with shorter tires. Here’s their theory: If a car starts with 3.50:1 gears and 26″ tires, but then the tires are swapped to 30″ ones, then the effective ratio is 3.08:1. In other words, the cruising speed with 3.50:1 gears and 30″ tires is the same as keeping the 26″ tires and installing 3.08:1 gears.
We don’t like this concept because it’s complicated and irrelevant. You can’t go up to a car on a cruise at night and calculate its “effective gear ratio” unless you know its original tire size. A lot of people will say, “It has 3.73:1 gears, but they act like 3.50 because the tires are bigger.” bigger than what? There is no standard of comparison. Also, “Effective Gear Ratio” means that a gear ratio has been changed, but tire size doesn’t affect final drive ratio at all. Here’s the proof: if you have 4.10:1 gears, regardless of size, the driveshaft rotates 4.1 times for each revolution of the tires.
However, changing the tire diameter will affect the car’s cruising speed and possibly its acceleration since you changed the number of tire revolutions per mile. For example, a tire with a true diameter of 26 inches has a circumference of 81.68 inches; A 30 inch tire has a circumference of 94.25 inches. This means that each time the 30 inch tire completes one revolution, the car is moved about 12-1/2 inches further than the one revolution of the 26 inch tires. Therefore, the larger tire requires less input RPM (engine RPM) to travel the same distance. Conversely, shorter tires require a higher engine speed per km/h. Because of this, shorter tires seem like lower transaxles and taller tires seem like higher gears.
Video: How to Select the Proper Gear Set for Your Vehicle
In this installment of Summit Racing Quick Flicks, Mike will teach you how to choose the best gear for your vehicle. Learn how to find out what gear ratio you have and why it matters, and how to select the best ring and pinion for your specific application.
You can also read our previous post on how to choose a ring and pinion in four steps.
Hi I’m Mike and on the Summit Racing Quick Flicks episode we’re going to talk about choosing the right gear set for your vehicle.
Choosing the right gear set is critical to the overall performance of the vehicle. It is important that the correct gear set is selected as this will have a drastic effect on the vehicle’s acceleration and cruising speed. In this video we discuss how a gear set works, how to determine what gear ratio is currently installed on the vehicle, as well as the aspects of the vehicle that may affect gear set selection, and how to select the correct gear set for the rear in your vehicle.
The first thing we need to discuss is how the ring and pinion work. The ring gear and pinion are made up of two gears – your pinion, which is your drive gear, and the ring gear, which is the driven gear. The pinion receives motion from the drive shaft, which is transmitted throughout the drive train. As this drive shaft rotates, it rotates the pinion at the same time. This pinion is then connected to the ring gear and as the pinion rotates it rotates the ring gear. This will then go ahead and set the axles in motion, then set the wheels in motion to move the vehicle forward or backward depending on what gear the transmission is in. The ratio of these two gears will affect how the vehicle accelerates since the pinion will have X teeth in relation to the ring gear. This will affect the vehicle’s acceleration and cruising speed as an end result.
Often a point of confusion, there is only one way to determine exactly what gear ratio is currently installed in the rear of your vehicle. It’s a misconception that sometimes you can count the number of revolutions of the tire in relation to the drive shaft to determine what gear ratio is in the vehicle, or that there’s some sort of label on the rear that tells you what gear ratio is currently installed. The only way to determine the current gear ratio in the vehicle is to count the number of teeth on the ring gear and divide it by the number of teeth on the pinion. As a final result, you get the ratio that is present in this vehicle. For example, if we had a 41 tooth ring gear and an 11 tooth pinion and split the two, we would get a gear ratio of 3.73. The reason it’s important to understand what gear ratio is currently installed in the rear of your vehicle is because you need to determine which direction you need to go for your vehicle application versus how the vehicle is currently operating.
There are five basic aspects of the vehicle that we will look at to determine which ratio is right for our specific application. Above all, the tire size has an influence on the gear selection, because the tire height or the tire diameter can have a drastic effect on the behavior of the gearshift in the vehicle. The cam profile – each cam has an operating range and we want to make sure the vehicle is accelerating properly to get into the operating range of those cams quickly enough or effectively. We will look at torque converter selection – what is the durability of the converter installed on this vehicle. Because what can happen is we can have a torque converter that stalls at 3,500 rpm, but we have, say, a 3.08 gear set installed in this vehicle with a pretty big tire. What that means to us is that the vehicle gets up to cruising speed and it never gets to the point where the converter actually goes into converter stall and the converter keeps slipping, overheating and causing problems with mileage and things like that . We will look at cruise RPM, which in turn is directly related to stall converter selection. We want to make sure the vehicle has a reasonable cruising speed when driven on the road. We don’t want to be cruising at 70mph with say a 4.11 gear on the road and having a cruising speed of say 3,200-3,500rpm which puts way too much stress on the engine and excess causes engine wear, poor fuel economy and things like that . We want to make sure it fits what we’re doing with that vehicle and vehicle usage. Again, all of the last three of these are somehow related.
Is this a drag race vehicle, is it a truck that is driven off-road, is it driven exclusively on-road? We want to make sure that the gear set continues and as a result fits what we intend to do with this vehicle. Here are some general ratios that can be used as a guide to determine which gearbox is right for your application. If we have an everyday rider, gear ratios of 2.55-3.25 usually work best, while for a street/strip application we would typically use a gear ratio of 3.42-3.90 and racing applications most commonly gear ratios of 4.10 and higher would use. So what effect do different transmission gears have on vehicle operation? For example, let’s say we have a vehicle in which we put 2.73 gears. 2.73 gears is considered a numerically low gear set, and this type of gear set gives the vehicle slow or poor acceleration from a standstill, but at the same time gives us lower cruising revs as well as top speed or top speed – per hour. This makes it a good street gear or a good gear for daily use on the highway or for a vehicle where we want better fuel economy. For reasons of comfort alone, the vehicle is subjected to less load at the engine speed. By comparison, if we were to put a set of 4.56 speed gears in the same vehicle, a 4.56 speed gear would give you much better acceleration from a standstill, but it would also put a lot more strain on the engine at cruising speeds on the freeway. Essentially what it will do is lower the maximum mile per hour the vehicle can go because it allows the engine to reach its maximum RPM potential so much faster compared to the 2.73 gearset. This leads to a 4.56 speed being used more often in off-road and racing applications because in these applications we really want to reach the maximum rpm of the engine much faster because we are trying to get the vehicle to accelerate at a much faster speed . The only instances where these rules somehow don’t apply is when we get into the situation where we have a vehicle with extremely tall tires.
An extremely tall tire will drastically affect how that gear ratio responds in that vehicle. So let’s say we have a 40 inch tire. If we had that 4.56 gear with that 40 inch tire, that 4.56 gear might actually behave like that 2.73 gear in that particular situation. In the end we’d really be even more a candidate for something like a 5.13 gear or a 5.88 gear to get our cruising speed to where we want it to be. So remember that we need to look at all aspects of the vehicle as a whole to determine which ratio is best for our application. Now that you have determined which transmission gear set is right for your application.
There are three things you need to decide about the rear end before settling on this gear set. The first thought to look at is the type of tail that is on the car or truck or whatever you may have. In certain vehicle applications, different tails are available depending on vehicle options, or this tail may have been replaced in that vehicle at some point. Therefore it is important that you get under the vehicle and take a look at the rear to determine exactly what type of housing was used in your specific vehicle application to determine which gear set is appropriate. Sometimes the stall can also be determined by measuring the outer diameter of the sprocket on similar rear structures. There is a slight difference in body size between, say, a GM eight-and-a-half versus a GM eight-and-a-half rear. So if you do not know how to identify it you will often have to do the inspection if you just look at the cover measure the diameter of the ring gear and go from there.
The second thing to look at is whether you have a GM or Dana axle. These use different series of gears. This means that depending on the type of carrier used, different spider thicknesses are used. If the vehicle already has the original gear set installed, you can use this gear set ratio to determine which series it is according to the carry series parameters for that particular type of rear end. You can often find this type of rear end listed with the wheel sets on our website or in the manufacturer catalogs if you have them available.
The third thing that may need to be determined is the type of equipment you will be using for your application. There are basically two different versions of transmissions made – there is a Performance transmission, also often known as a Street transmission, and there is also a Pro-Series transmission. The Performance Slash Street Series transmission is designed for applications where the vehicle is putting out more power than the stock transmission and you want a slightly stronger transmission that is a bit more performance oriented compared to the stock transmission. A Pro Series gear, on the other hand, is a much softer gear. Pro Series gear is designed for drag race applications only. The reason the gears are softer is because they are designed to absorb the impact between the sticky tires and the hard impact of the drivetrain that is transmitted through that gear set to keep teeth and the like from snapping off. What would happen if you put some pro gear on a street car is that you wear out that gear very quickly and that’s why they’re only designed for drag race applications. So when looking for gear keep in mind that you will most likely need performance or street gear and again the Pro Series gears are intended for drag race use only. A final note on selecting a gear set for your rear is sometimes on some GM or Dana axle applications where a carrier series is an issue, what you are trying to install on the rear is not available for that carrier series.
In some situations there is a solution to this problem and that is what is called a ring gear spacer. A ring gear spacer is designed to take up the extra space created by a row of gears taller than designed for your carrier, since a dual series gear is typically much thicker than a dual series gear. So what’s going to happen is you’ve got this new, thinner cog that’s designed for a three-carrier, and if you put it on a two-carrier, what happens is that it would be too far from the pinion. and the two would not adhere properly to each other. What the spacer will do is slip it between the carrier and the ring gear and take up that excess space, allowing the ring gear and pinions to properly contact each other. If you buy one of these new longer screws will also be included to ensure the screws are fully seated. These are probably good up to about 450hp or below – anything beyond that where you don’t want to use a ring gear spacer. There is also a Gear Selection Calculator under the Expert Advice tab on SummitRacing.com to help you determine which gear ratio is best for your application.
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