Best Koi Pond Thermometer? Top 42 Best Answers

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Koi fish are poikilotherms, or cold-blooded animals. Many experts point out that the ideal koi temperature is between 59°F (13°C) and 77°F (25°C). Other sources say that koi fish can thrive in waters that drop to 1°C (34°F). These low temperature ranges may make you wonder if you need a pond heater for koi when temperatures drop even further, especially in winter.

You do not need to heat your koi pond as koi fish, being cold blooded, can survive cold water temperatures. However, heating your pond in the winter to maintain optimal water temperatures can help your koi avoid parasites and bacteria that thrive in cold water. This article describes the effects of koi pond heating and provides some tips to consider if you are considering investing in koi pond heating systems.

How heating koi ponds can help

Caring for koi fish may seem low maintenance when it comes to water temperature, as koi fish can adapt their bodies to thrive in cold water and still survive when temperatures reach as high as 32°C. However, this area may not necessarily be the best temperature for koi carp, especially if koi carp are not the only inhabitants of your outdoor pond.

The immune system of a koi carp becomes active when the water temperature reaches around 15°C. At the same time, parasites and bacteria in your pond also become active in cold water, especially when the water temperature drops to 12 °C. During the cold months, your pond water can get cold enough for parasites to thrive, but not warm enough to activate your koi’s immune system. Therefore, your koi fish can be susceptible to diseases.

Keep your koi fish in a catchment tank when they are sick so that you can heat the water for the affected koi instead of the entire pond. The holding tank serves as a quarantine tank where you can adjust the water chemistry and temperature to eliminate bacteria and parasites that feed on your Koi fish while activating your fish’s resistance to disease. Isolating the sick fish will also help prevent the disease from spreading to the rest of your collection.

But if your entire pond maintains the ideal temperature for parasites to thrive, you risk the entire pond becoming ill. This possibility may require koi pond heating systems to maintain an ideal water temperature that does not become a breeding ground for harmful parasites and bacteria.

What you should pay attention to when choosing a pond heater for koi

Pond heaters can help keep your pond’s water temperature in optimal ranges where your koi fish stay active and have enough resistance to protect themselves from parasites. Here are some factors to consider when purchasing a pond heater:

Avoid copper heaters

Fish are sensitive to certain levels of copper, and the metal can be toxic to some species of fish, including koi. While copper is an effective freshwater parasite and algae regulator, your koi’s immune system can suffer severely due to low levels of copper; it could even kill them in higher concentrations.

Make sure the heater you plan to install for your pond does not use copper heat exchangers. Many heaters use copper in their heat exchange mechanisms because copper is considered the best and least expensive conductor of heat. Despite its reputation, heated copper can get into your pond, affecting and possibly killing your koi fish.

Consider gas heaters

Remember that a pond heater is designed to reduce stress on your koi fish. You want a reliable heater that will keep your pond water temperature at an optimal level despite the cold months. Gas heaters can be very reliable during these times, especially in the event of a power outage.

In such cases, your koi fish may experience more stress when electric heaters are turned off. The temperature of your pond can drop quickly without a heater maintaining optimal levels. Rapid drops in temperature can be life threatening to your koi fish who have not had an opportunity to adjust their body chemistry to new temperature levels.

Maintaining an operational heater is necessary to prevent your pond water temperature from dropping. You can keep a gas heater running during a power outage as long as you have gallons of gas ready.

Use accurate heaters

An ideal pond water heater should be one that can keep a water temperature constant within a few degrees instead of the standard five degrees. You want accurate water temperatures to avoid stressing your koi fish from constantly changing water temperatures.

Traditional heaters tend to turn off when your pond reaches a certain temperature. For example, a pond heater can heat your water temperature to 17°C and then turn off to prevent further heating. When the water temperature drops to 57°F (14°C), the heater will turn back on and heat your pond again.

That five degree change can be stressful for your koi fish, and you want to avoid a three degree drop in water temperature in a day. Your body chemistry may be working so hard that your koi are becoming susceptible to disease.

Should koi ponds be heated?

Technically, you don’t need to heat a koi pond because koi fish are naturally cold-blooded, so they can easily adapt to different water temperatures. However, you should consider heating your pond if you live in areas where the winter months can drop your water temperature to levels ideal for parasites and bacteria to grow and infect your koi fish.

Consider getting heaters to maintain an optimal temperature range to keep your koi fish’s immune system active while avoiding an ideal environment for parasite growth.

We are moving into the winter season and temperatures are dropping. You might be thinking about your koi pond and how your koi will fare during the winter months.

Your fish will be fine, but colder weather means you’ll need to adjust your feeding schedule.

Here’s how your koi feeding schedule changes as the temperature drops — even to the point where you stop feeding them until spring.

How the weather affects the feeding schedule

As the air temperature drops, the water temperature in your koi pond will drop. There is a direct correlation between water temperature and koi feeding as your koi’s digestive system slows down with temperature (with one exception).

From late spring to late summer/early fall when water temperatures are 30 degrees Celsius or more, feed your koi twice a day (up to 4 times a day for smaller koi).

Between 68 and 86 degrees F is the most active time for your koi. They eat more than any other temperature range, so feed your koi two to four times a day.

Your digestive system begins to slow down again as soon as the temperature drops below 20 degrees Celsius. From 17 to 20 degrees Celsius, feed your koi once or twice a day. Between 50 and 59 degrees F you’ll start to watch your koi really closely – it’s possible they won’t eat much at all, so don’t feed them more than twice a day, preferably once.

The next phase is important. If the water temperature drops below 50 degrees to 41 degrees F, you will only be feeding your koi two to three times a week. And if the water temperature drops below 41 degrees F, stop feeding your koi altogether, as they should be in hibernation mode by that time.

Once your koi are in hibernation, their digestive system will slow to its lowest point and you won’t have to feed them again until spring. If koi overwinter with food in their stomachs, it can rot and trigger a bacterial infection that could kill them. If you completely stop feeding for the winter (water below 41 degrees), do not start feeding again until spring. Even if they beg during a warm-up phase in January, which is unusual for the time of year, it can quickly cool down again and catch them with food in their stomachs.

Take care of your koi feeding

Maintaining your koi ponds and sticking to the right feeding schedule year-round can be time-consuming. You need to watch your koi and watch their eating habits; The above guidelines are guidelines only, especially as the weather turns colder.

The Alabama Aquarium helps koi owners feed their animals on a regular basis. Request a quote for our koi water garden maintenance and let us take care of your ponds for you.

” ” This is a super closeup of the Galileo thermometer. Adrianne Bresnahan/Getty Images

Based on a thermoscope invented by Galileo Galilei in the early 1600s, the thermometer on your colleague’s desk is known as the Galileo thermometer. A simple, fairly accurate thermometer, now mostly used as a decoration. The Galileo thermometer consists of a sealed glass tube filled with water and several floating bubbles. The bubbles are glass balls filled with a colored liquid mixture. This liquid mixture can contain alcohol or simply be water with food coloring.

Each bubble has a small metal tag attached that displays a temperature. A number and a degree symbol are engraved on the label. These metal tags are actually calibrated counterweights. The weight of each tag is slightly different from the others. Because the bubbles are all hand-blown glass, they are not exactly the same size and shape. The bubbles are calibrated by adding a specific amount of liquid to them so that they have the exact same density. After the weighted tags are attached to the bubbles, each differs only slightly in density (the ratio of mass to volume) from the other bubbles, and the density of all bubbles is very close to the density of the surrounding water.

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If you’ve read this question, you know that an object immersed in a liquid is subjected to two main forces: the downward gravitational pull and the upward buoyancy. It’s downward gravity that makes this thermometer work.

The basic idea is that as the temperature of the air outside the thermometer changes, so does the temperature of the water surrounding the bubbles. As the temperature of water changes, it either expands or contracts, changing its density. So, at any given density, some of the bubbles will float and others will sink. The bubble that sinks the most shows the approximate current temperature.

Consider this example:

Suppose there are five bubbles in the thermometer:

A blue bubble representing 60 degrees

A yellow bubble representing 65 degrees

A green bubble representing 70 degrees

A purple bubble representing 75 degrees

A red bubble representing 80 degrees

The blue bubble (60 degrees) is the heaviest (densest) bubble, and each bubble after that is slightly lighter, with the red bubble being the lightest. Let’s say the temperature in the room is 70 degrees. Since the ambient air is 70 degrees, we know that the water inside the thermometer is also about 70 degrees. The blue and yellow bubbles (60 and 65 degrees respectively) are calibrated to have a higher density than water at that temperature, so they sink. The purple and red bubbles are each less dense than the surrounding water, so they float at the top of the thermometer. Because the green bubble is calibrated to represent 70 degrees, the same temperature as the water, it sinks slightly so that it’s hovering just below the purple and red bubbles – thereby indicating room temperature!

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Originally published: June 21, 2001

Assumptions are the last thing you want to rely on when someone is sick. Here’s an overview of medical thermometers, how to use them, and what their readings mean.

As with any other device in your home, it is important to understand how your thermometer works. Not every type works the same way or is designed to give the same temperature readings.

There are many types of contact and non-contact thermometers to choose from. The ages of your household members as well as your personal preferences can help you decide which types to buy.

Having a reliable clinical thermometer at home can be incredibly helpful. The ability to pinpoint if someone has a fever gives you much-needed information about important next steps for their treatment.

Whichever type you choose, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions carefully. No thermometer will give accurate results if used incorrectly.

Never use a thermometer on a person that is intended for another purpose, such as B. a laboratory or meat thermometer. These do not provide accurate readings.

If you’re a parent, you might be wondering why we’re leaving out forehead strip thermometers from this roundup. Strip thermometers are inexpensive and quick to use. However, because they measure skin temperature rather than body temperature, they are significantly less accurate and should be avoided.

Digital thermometer

Digital thermometers work with thermal sensors that determine body temperature.

They can be used to take temperature readings in the mouth, rectum, or armpit.

When evaluating digital thermometer readings, remember that the temperature in the armpit (armpit) is about 0.6°C (½ to 1°F) cooler than oral readings. Rectal thermometers are 0.6°C (½ to 1°F) warmer than oral readings.

advantages

Digital thermometers provide accurate readings in about 1 minute or less.

Disadvantages

To get an accurate reading when used orally, the tip of the device must be placed under the tongue with the mouth fully closed. For this reason, rectal readings for infants and young children are considered the most accurate. Additionally:

Oral readings are not accurate if taken too close to the food or drink, as the temperature of your food or drink can affect the results. Wait at least 15 minutes.

Rectal readings can be uncomfortable for infants and young children.

You should not use the same thermometer for rectal and oral measurements. This may require the purchase of two thermometers, which should be labeled.

Batteries in thermometers should be replaced regularly. Make sure you have the correct type of battery for your device and that you understand how to change it so that you don’t have to worry in an emergency.

oral thermometer

Oral temperature can be measured with either a digital or mercury thermometer. Below we look at the advantages and disadvantages of mercury thermometers.

The average oral temperature reading is 37°C (98.6°F). However, any oral temperature from 97°F (36.1°C) to 99°F (37.2°C) is considered typical. Some people naturally run cool, others a little warmer. It’s a good idea to know your typical temperature so you can gauge if you have a fever when you’re feeling sick.

advantages

Oral thermometers are most accurate in children over 3 years old and in adults.

Disadvantages

Young children and people with breathing problems may not be able to keep their mouths closed long enough to get an accurate reading.

Digital ear thermometer (eardrum).

Eardrum thermometers measure the temperature in the ear canal using infrared ray technology.

Tympanic readings are 0.5°F (0.3°C) to 1°F (0.6°C) higher than oral temperature readings.

advantages

Tympanic thermometers provide quick and accurate readings and may be preferable to oral or rectal thermometers, especially in children.

Disadvantages

Due to the size of the ear canal, tympanic thermometers are not recommended for infants younger than 6 months.

They must be positioned correctly to get accurate results.

Obstructions such as earwax can skew the results.

They may not fit properly in a small or curved ear canal.

Forehead (temporal) thermometer

Forehead thermometers use infrared sensors to take the temperature of the superficial temporal artery, which is a branch of the carotid artery.

Some are known as non-contact infrared thermometers.

Forehead thermometers that do not require physical contact have become very popular for use in locations such as airports, shops, and stadiums.

Forehead temperature readings are approximately 0.6°C (1°F) cooler than oral temperature readings.

advantages

Temporal thermometers provide quick readings within a few seconds.

They are easy to administer and can be used on infants, children and adults.

Some research suggests that temporal thermometers in children may be as accurate as rectal thermometers and give better readings than ear or armpit thermometers. However, these results are inconclusive and have been disputed in other studies.

Disadvantages

Forehead thermometers must be positioned accurately and according to the manufacturer’s instructions, or they will not give the correct reading.

The measured values ​​can be influenced by external factors such as drafts, wind, heating and direct sunlight.

Wearing certain items of clothing, such as hats or heavy coats, can skew the results.

App based thermometer

Most free phone apps designed for temperature measurement are designed to record the temperature of environments, not people.

Phone apps that help measure body temperature rely on digital thermometers connected to the app via a Bluetooth connection.

advantages

Temperatures can be taken orally, rectally, or under the arm.

They deliver measured values ​​within 8 to 10 seconds.

Some apps allow you to upload your anonymous temperature readings to a health and weather map, which can help alert local authorities to disease spikes in your geographic area.

Some apps suggest medical next steps based on the reading.

Most apps give you the option to log multiple people’s temperatures.

Disadvantages

Not every app or thermometer that connects to an app is reliable. Some manufacturers have a better track record than others.

App-based thermometers can be significantly more expensive than digital thermometers without a Bluetooth connection.

pacifier thermometer

If your baby uses a pacifier, this can be an easy way for you to record his approximate temperature.

advantages

Ease of use is the biggest advantage of pacifier thermometers.

Disadvantages

Pacifier thermometers must remain in the mouth without moving for up to 6 minutes. In addition, they provide an approximation of temperature rather than an accurate reading.

Mercury thermometer (liquid in glass).

In the past, mercury thermometers were the only way to measure temperature.

For security reasons, they are no longer widely available and may even be illegal where you live.

advantages

Mercury thermometers provide accurate temperature readings and can be used orally, rectally, or under the arm.

You don’t need batteries.

Disadvantages

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temperature

AIR TEMPERATURE

Why we monitor air temperature: Air temperature affects water temperature.

What Affects Air Temperature: Air temperature is affected by the energy of the sun, weather patterns, and seasons.

Methods:

1. Turn on the thermometer and make sure it is set to Celsius (°C).

2. First measure the air temperature by holding the thermometer in a shady place and let the thermometer adjust to the ambient conditions for at least 1 minute before recording.

WATER TEMPERATURE

Why we monitor water temperature: Water temperature affects the rate of chemical and biological processes and affects other measured parameters (e.g., the maximum amount of dissolved oxygen decreases as temperature increases). Water temperature is one of the most important parameters for aquatic organisms. Many animals have adapted to a specific temperature range, and warmer temperatures than this can cause stress or even death. Trout, for example, are cold-water fish that have difficulty surviving in water temperatures above 20°C.

What Affects Water Temperature: Water temperature is determined by the climate of the watershed, seasonal patterns, and local influences. During the summer, lakes and reservoirs generally have a layer of warmer and less dense water that floats above the colder, denser water at the bottom of the reservoir. The difference in density between these two layers creates a surprisingly high resistance to mixing, so the two layers remain separate for most of the summer. In the fall, surface temperatures cool and the lake eventually mixes from top to bottom. A winter lake, particularly one with ice coverage, may exhibit “reverse stratification” where slightly warmer water floats above the densest water, which occurs at around 4.5 °C. In spring the lake mixes from top to bottom. The warming of the late spring and summer sun recreates the warmth later.

Local influences on lake temperatures include upstream runoff of warmer water from natural springs or cooling water from power plants, shading by the littoral zone (the vegetation at the edge of the lake), lake depth, and the amount of suspended matter in the water. Temperature recording.

Methods:

1. Measure the water temperature by submerging the thermometer two-thirds below the surface of the water.

2. Take the measurement at a central flow location.

3. Allow the thermometer to adjust to the water temperature for at least 1 minute before quickly removing the thermometer from the water.

Stream Side Science temperature instructions (great for laminating) and use with a group.

Learn more about temperature.

Guide to Keeping Pond Fish Alive During Winter and Cold Weather 2022

Water temperature is a major factor affecting both the health of the ecosystem as a whole and your fish, and as such it is important to keep this in mind while preparing for winter when temperatures start to drop. Simply put, cooler water can hold more dissolved oxygen than warmer water, but water that is too cold also slows down the bodily functions of most fish – which can be desirable or undesirable depending on the species.

Typically, keeping the water below about 85°F (about 29°C) supports healthy dissolved oxygen levels and it is ideal to keep ponds below this temperature during warmer months. Additionally, studies have found that increasing water temperature by just a few degrees Celsius in colder weather can significantly improve fish metabolism and cellular respiration, which in turn increases their dissolved oxygen consumption and overall growth (which is why many koi breeders use heated tanks !).

On the other hand, water that is too cold can also negatively affect the metabolism, growth rate and reproduction of the fish. When the water gets too cold too quickly, many fish go into shock and disease, which is why some pond owners in very harsh climates have reported mass fish kills during sudden cold spells.

For many pond fish species, too cold water (below 50-60°F) will cause digestive enzymes to slow down and potentially trigger hibernation of the fish, which can be dangerous if you have non-hardy fish in your pond. For tropical/non-hardy breeds, which include fancy goldfish, plecos, and guppies, they would need to be brought indoors well before temperatures get that low.

Can koi & goldfish survive the winter in outdoor ponds?

Of course, all fish have a specific range of temperature, oxygen, and pH (all of which are related) in which they perform best. Therefore, it’s important to do your research before stocking your pond so you can be sure you have fish that will thrive best in the environment you can provide and maintain. Goldfish, for example, prefer temperatures between 20 and 22°C – at around 15 to 17°C they (and many other species such as koi and orfe) enter a state called torpor, where they are dormant and conserve energy to survive.

Fortunately, both goldfish and koi can successfully overwinter in outdoor ponds as long as the water does not completely freeze (they congregate at the bottom in warmer water). With that in mind, you need to monitor your water temperature regularly throughout the year, ideally at the same time every day, and make sure some methods are in place to help them winter more comfortably.

How do fish naturally survive the winter in ponds and lakes?

In the wild, native fish have adapted to seasonal changes and evolved a variety of ways to naturally survive the winter. In freshwater systems of sufficient depth, warm water settles to the bottom (or hypolimnion) of the lake or pond in winter due to its greater density, while cold water circulates to the epilimnion (surface) and is allowed to freeze (this is called winter). stratification). More resilient species of fish such as koi and goldfish congregate here to overwinter. When temperatures drop, metabolism also drops; Fish move very little to conserve oxygen and energy. As cold-blooded creatures, unable to regulate their own temperature, they either go into torpor (which is essentially short-term hibernation lasting anywhere from a few hours to a few weeks) or into full hibernation for the duration of winter until the water reaches optimal temperatures again and their metabolism resumes.

Other fish may burrow partially or fully into the sediment at the bottom of the pond to keep warm, where they also enter a resting period. Most fish seek out still water, as any major current consumes heat and energy. Less food is consumed both because metabolism has slowed and in an effort to slow it down to minimize energy and oxygen use. Many are able to feed on any algae present without much additional feeding. Still others are quite adapted to cool waters and will thrive all winter. These species include sunfish, trout and salmon, the latter two of which stay even in the first meters of the water surface despite colder temperatures. These well-adapted fish often forage throughout the winter, taking advantage of the reduced vegetative cover of their prey.

However, many species of ornamental pond fish are traded throughout the world and often cannot fully acclimatize to the location where they land. Because of this, you may need to use strategies like the ones below to help them survive through the winter!

How To Help Pond Fish Survive Winter (Methods & Tips)

Maintaining a hole in the ice is imperative for proper gas exchange in winter. A deicer is a disc-shaped device that usually sits on top of the ice and then melts a hole in it and keeps it melted for the duration of the winter. Some deicers can also be placed under the water surface and will turn on automatically once the water starts to freeze. Although this method is easy to use, the disadvantage of this method is the cost of running it.

Air compressors are comparatively inexpensive with high efficiency and facilitate water movement which increases the amount of oxygen in the water. These aerators also prevent ice from fully forming, or weaken already existing ice until a hole or holes form, which also allows for gas exchange. While this is more cost-effective, some species of fish may not find this method beneficial as they tend to avoid choppy water during the winter. Make sure you don’t buy a compressor that is too powerful compared to the size of the pond so as not to disturb the water and fish too much.

An in-line heater or gas powered boiler can be used to prevent the water from freezing in the first place and will only turn on when the water falls below a certain temperature. With both methods, the pond water is routed through very effective heating chambers in the devices and the heated water is then pumped back into the pond. If your water is already cooler than desired before installing or using one of these, you should heat the water slowly (by about one degree per day) to minimize the risk of shocking your fish.

Any organic debris present in the pond, such as leaves, fish waste, and dead plants, consumes dissolved oxygen as it decomposes. This is a particular hazard in winter, as valuable dissolved oxygen levels are already being depleted by ice and the loss of oxygen-rich vegetation. Before winter sets in, you should thoroughly clean the pond bottom of debris and leaves and change at least 50% of the water, as cleaning is likely to stir up sediment into the water.

During cooler months, fish metabolism naturally slows down, so they don’t need to eat as much. Too much food in winter often results in excess food floating around, reducing water quality and dissolved oxygen as it breaks down. Decrease the protein content and increase the carbohydrate content of the diet when the water temperature falls below 60°F, as proteins are more difficult to digest. In addition, all excess food is excreted as ammonia, which is toxic to fish and can be fatal even at levels below 1 ppm. If the water temperature drops below 50°F, wait until spring to feed your fish. If necessary, they can feed on algae, insects or plant material.

6) Move fish (and plants) indoors

Some species of fish, particularly tropical, weak or juvenile fish, do not do well at all during wintering and should be moved to an indoor pond or aquarium where conditions are better regulated for them. This way you can enjoy your fish all year round without the risk of the cold affecting their health, although catching and moving them can stress them out. Fish species that will likely need to be brought indoors for the winter include plecos, orandas, and blackmoors.

7) Increase the pond depth

How deep should a koi pond be in winter? Koi and goldfish are hardy and can usually overwinter, but only if the water is more than 4 feet deep. This greater depth allows for proper winter stratification, preventing the entire pond from freezing over and giving your fish a place to roost to escape the worst of the cold. If you live in an area with harsh winters, you should make sure your pond is at least 4 feet deep, or make it deeper if necessary.

8) Do not remove ice and snow

Leaving ice and snow on your pond may seem counterintuitive to help your fish overwinter, but these actually provide a layer of insulation for your pond from strong winds and significant and/or rapid temperature changes. Although you’ll still need to create and maintain a hole or two to allow for gas exchange, if you live in a northern region you should keep most of the ice and snow to protect your fish. In southern areas like Florida, as long as the water temperature stays above 50°F, you may not need to worry about wintering at all.

Heat pumps are an excellent way to heat koi ponds during the winter and summer months.

Using a heat pump for pond heating will significantly reduce your pond heating costs compared to all other forms of pond heating.

Below is a guide to the cost of heating a koi pond using different heating methods. This is an average/guideline as the cost of heating a pond will vary depending on the time of year and weather, but it is still a useful example of the savings that using a heat pump can bring.

Maintaining an adequate pond temperature during winter and spring (e.g. +12°C) can have significant health benefits for the fish, helping to prevent disease and parasitic infestations

For use in koi ponds, it is important to select a heat pump that can operate down to low temperatures to maintain the pond’s required temperature during winter and spring.

Typically a koi pond is kept between 10 and 15°C in winter and between 20 and 22°C in summer.

For koi ponds, we recommend the Thermotec Inverter or Duratech Dura+ heat pump series. The Duratech Dura+ range is available in different sizes with 7 kW, 10 kW, 14 kW, 19 kW, 22 kW and 30 kW heat output. Beware of other heat pumps that only work up to around +7°C as these become inefficient in very cold weather.

Our Duratech Dura+ and Thermotec Inverter heat pumps offer the highest performance at lower air temperatures compared to other heat pumps on the market.

Thermotec Inverter 17kw at the koi pond

While there are cheaper heat pumps on the market, the performance, reliability and suitability for use in Koi ponds make the Duratech Dura+ and Thermotec Inverter ranges worth the small premium.

A heat pump can be used all year round to ensure a stable pond water temperature. A stable water temperature offers significant health benefits for the fish.

Our Thermotec Inverter and Duratech Dura+ ranges can operate down to -15°C and feature a ‘hot gas’ defrost mechanism that quickly removes any ice that may form on the heat pump at low temperatures.

Thermotec inverter 12kw heat pump at the koi pond

Dura+ heat pump at the koi pond

1. Sizing

For a year-round heated koi pond with a winter temperature of approx. 12 °C and a summer temperature of approx. 20-22 °C, we recommend the following dimensioning:

Duratech Dura+ Pond Size Model Max. Pond Volume Dura+7 4800 gallons Dura+10 6800 gallons Dura+14 9800 gallons Dura+19 13,800 gallons

Thermotec Inverter Pond Sizing Guide Model Maximum Pond Volume Thermotec Inverter Horizontal 9 kW 4500 gallons Thermotec Inverter Horizontal 12 kW 6000 gallons Thermotec Inverter Horizontal 17 kW 7500 gallons Thermotec Inverter Horizontal 19.5 kW 9600 gallons Thermotec Inverter Horizontal 24 kW 11,600 gallons Thermotec Inverter Vertical 29 kW 13,800 gallon Thermotec Inverter Vertical 34 kW 19,900 gallon Thermotec Inverter Vertical 34 kW (3 phase) 19,900 gallons

(Note: This assumes that the pond is covered in winter and a temperature of +12°C is to be maintained over the winter.)

A cover should always be used on the pond in winter to retain heat and reduce heat loss (see below for our range of winter pond covers). In addition, any insulation that can be built into the pond walls and floor is beneficial in reducing heat loss and thus lowering operating costs.

Thermotec Inverter 12kw at the koi pond

2. Efficiency

Heating a koi pond with a heat pump is always significantly cheaper than gas, oil or direct electric heating.

Depending on the air temperature, our Duratech Dura+ heat pumps return between 2.8 and 6.7 times the energy supplied as heat.

The Thermotec inverter models can emit up to 13 times the energy supplied as heat

This efficiency factor is called COP (Coefficient of Performance) and you can view a graph of how device performance varies with air temperature on the Dura+ product page here

At an air temperature of 0 °C and a water temperature of 13 °C, the Duratech Dura+ heat pumps have a COP of around 4.

ie even at an air temperature of 0c, they still give off four times their power consumption as heat. The COP increases above 6 with increasing air temperature.

This performance surpasses virtually all other heat pumps on the market. The performance of other heat pumps drops to practically zero as the air temperature drops. Many other makes of heat pump that claim to be suitable for koi ponds are in fact only suitable for summer use.

The Duratech Dura+7 has an input power of 1.2 kW and therefore at an air temperature of 0 °C it still gives off 4 x 1.2 = 4.8 kW heat with only 1.2 kW input power.

The COP rises above 6, which means that the heat pump can produce 6 x 1.2 = 7.2 kW of heat from just 1.2 kW of input power.

These heat pumps therefore have an efficiency between 280% and 670%. A typical gas boiler is only about 85% efficient and direct electric heating is about 95% efficient.

This high level of efficiency makes heat pumps the most economical form of heating for koi ponds, even at low air temperatures.

3. Controls

The Thermotec Inverter and Duratech Dura+ heat pumps can be set so that the water temperature is maintained between +7 °C and +40 °C and the temperature can be increased in increments of 0.5 °C.

Note that some other heat pumps on the market have a minimum temperature of +15°C, which is too warm for most koi ponds in winter. Most koi ponds are kept at around +12°C in winter.

The ability to set the desired water temperature with an accuracy of 0.5°C is another important feature of the Duratech Dura+ devices. The temperature of most other heat pumps can only be changed in 1 degree increments.

The controls of the Duratech Dura+ series therefore enable you to have precise control over the pond water temperature.

Thermotec Inverter 17kw at the koi pond in winter

4. Heating and cooling ability

The Thermotec Inverter and Duratech Dura+ heat pump series can heat and cool the pond water.

In summer, if the pond temperature exceeds the target temperature set on the heat pump (e.g. 20-22 °C), the heat pump automatically switches to cooling mode to lower the pond temperature.

The accuracy of the controls in the Duratech Dura+ range helps avoid fluctuations in pond water temperature to ensure a stable water temperature.

5. Fish health benefits

Keeping your pond at a stable temperature has significant health benefits for your fish.

Keep the pond at an appropriate and stable temperature (e.g. 12°C) during the winter and spring months to keep the fish’s immune system active.

This can reduce the risk of the fish getting disease and being attacked by parasites, especially in the spring.

6. Ongoing Charges

As an example of running costs, the Dura+ 7 kW heat pump has an input power of 1.2 kW (5.2 amps).

If your electricity costs are 9p per kWh, the cost of running the heat pump would be 9 x 1.2 = 10.8p per hour while the heat pump is running

Except in extreme cold spells and with the right sizing, the heat pump should not have to run 24 hours a day.

The heat pump heats the pond to the desired temperature and then switches off.

The running time of the device depends on the air temperature and how well the pond is insulated or covered.

For example, assuming the heat pump has to run 7 hours a day, the running cost for a Dura+ 7 unit would be 7 x 10.8p = 75.6p per day

7. Warranty

The use of the Thermotec Inverter and Duratech Dura+ heat pump series in Koi ponds does not void the warranty.

The only provision in the warranty document is that koi ponds must be maintained at a pH between 7.0 and 8.5, which is fairly typical for most koi ponds.

The concentration of medicinal chemicals that can be used in koi ponds is not sufficient to cause damage to the equipment.

The Dura+ units feature a titanium heat exchanger that is highly resistant to corrosion from all types of chemicals, including chlorine in swimming pools.

A copy of the warranty document is included at the end of the Dura+ product listing or can be viewed here

8. Customer Videos

Below are some customer videos from Wrighty of using a Thermotec Inverter Heat Pump to heat their koi pond. Thank you Wright!



9. Additional advice on installing heat pumps in koi ponds

A backup heat source (e.g. electric heater) should be installed next to the heat pump. This can provide additional heat in extremely cold weather conditions (e.g. below -5°C) and also acts as a backup in the unlikely event that the heat pump fails.

To avoid damage to the heat pump, you must avoid freezing water inside the unit as this can damage the heat exchanger. The easiest way to avoid this is to run the water circulation pump when the air temperature falls below 0°C.

A frost monitor can be installed on the circulation pump, which switches it on when the air temperature falls below 0 °C.

The heat pump contains a pressure switch that detects when the circulation pump is running and water is flowing through the unit. For the pressure switch to work properly, it is advisable to install the heat pump on a pressurized water line rather than a gravity line. If the heat pump needs to be installed on a gravity fed water line, we sell a separate water flow switch that can be used to detect water flow. Please contact us for more information.

The Duratech Dura+7 requires a flow rate of approximately 3 m3/h (660 gallons per hour) to operate effectively.

A separate drip tray heater kit is now available that will melt any ice that collects at the bottom of the heat pump. Please click here for details

Please also note the installation tips on our website

Note that some heat pumps (e.g. Thermotec Inverter) require a minimum water temperature of +8°C and above for the heat pump to start. If the initial pond water temperature is lower, it may be necessary to use another heat source to raise the pond temperature to over +8°C so that the heat pump can take over heating the pond.

10. Drip tray heater kit

In extremely cold weather, the condensate dripping from the heat pump evaporator coil can freeze on the bottom of the heat pump and cause icing.

We sell an optional kit that includes a special heating wire controlled by a low temperature thermostat.

The heating element only turns on when the air temperature drops below zero and turns off again when the temperature rises.

The kit comes with all the necessary parts and full installation instructions

Click here to purchase this kit

11. Sample Installations

Below are some photos of a thermal pond heated with a Duratech Dura+ heat pump over the winter.

Another example below shows a Duratech Dura+ heat pump heating a koi pond, taken in March 2010

The pond owner reported that the heat pump worked very well and kept the pond temperature at 15°C despite the snow!

The running costs were reduced by approx. 60%

Another recently installed system was on a 14,000 gallon pond in Norfolk and used a Duratech Dura+14kw unit to heat the pool.

The pool owner reported: –

“I am writing to say that I am very impressed with the heat pump. I estimate it has already saved me over £200 on heating oil in the last 3 weeks.”

The initial cost of purchasing a heat pump may be higher than a traditional electric or gas pond heater, but you will soon recoup the expense through greatly reduced running costs.

Using a heat pump to heat your pond is also more environmentally friendly than using fossil fuels such as gas or oil, and you can also reduce CO2 emissions and do something for the environment!

12. What our customers say

Here are some quotes from our customers using Duratech Dura+ heat pumps in their koi ponds:-

Hi David, AMAZING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ! !!!!!! Delivered yesterday morning, luckily my husband is on holiday this week so it was plugged in straight away, the temp was around 15.5 degrees, went to work, came back at 10pm and it was up to 17.5 degrees, got up at 06:00 – 19 degrees, early in the morning it has hit the 20 degrees I had set it to, apparently it only kicked in once today to keep the temp. After seeing this device work I now know that the old device didn’t work like it should have from day one – all that time wasted – my poor fish – they are bombing the pond now (it will me a fortune in food) what an amazing piece of kit!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!. Over the next week I will try to snap some photos for you to use if you wish, also I am chairman of the South Devon Koi Club although we are currently having problems with our website (no one knows how to fix anything on loads it) will be very happy to put a link for your business if we can find a guy who can. I have a pond visit next month – 2 clubs are visiting, if you have any information you would like to pass on to me I would be very happy to do so. Thank you for your help in solving my problems. Thank you so much for your help, I am so impressed with the pump keeping a consistent 24 degrees – the fish love it. It was a big expense for me but one of the best I’ve made would recommend this pump to anyone thinking of heating their pond koi pond you supplied may I say what a fantastic service you have have done to me. Many thanks J Noel (June 2012) Hi David, I thought you might like the attached photo. Now that we are in the depths of ice and snow, the heat pump is really showing its worth by keeping my pond at a comfortable constant 10C temperature even overnight when it’s -5C outside. T Hogg (January 2013) I have to say for all the money I’ve spent on my state of the art koi pond this is the best unit I’ve bought. It surprised me how little I had to do with it. I just turned it on, set the thermostat to 23 degrees and left it at that. I never had to touch it again while it was on my pond. Absolutely brilliant. I can’t imagine why anyone would use a gas system now that these are available. (Duratech Dura+19 at Koi pond 2013) Dear Nigel, Please find attached pictures showing how the heat pump is keeping well below freezing 13 degrees Celsius on a very cold morning. It is a great pleasure to have the unit since August as I have been able to control the natural drop in temperature from September which has brought health benefits to the koi. I now wake up to a freezing cold morning and the koi are eating like it’s a warm day as the pictures show. So many people have told me that heating a pond is too expensive. But the cost of insulation with a cover and pipes and filters is not. The additional electricity costs are only small. So for the pleasure it’s given me, it’s all worth it. Most important is koi health, the benefits are enormous. Thanks Andy (Dura+7 at the pond Dec 2016) I purchased the InverterTec 9kw heat pump from heatpumps4pools for my 3000+ gallon koi pond after very friendly discussions with the sales department. Set up and installation was very easy and there are plenty of instructions with the included booklet or YouTube videos. I anticipate that it will be very efficient and economical to work with additional pond cover during the winter months as recommended to keep my pond at a temperature that will allow the fish to continue feeding throughout the winter. The mobile app is very useful for monitoring the device and all temperature settings can be made from the comfort of your armchair. Highly recommended. Andrew Murton (Thermotec Inverter 9kw at Koi pond Sept 2019)

In the example below, the pipes from the pond to the heat pump have been laid underground in flexible pipes

Bypass kit and fixed to flexible pipe connection shown

Each fall, as the water temperature in your pond drops, your fish’s metabolism will slow down, they will become less active and their need for food will decrease. Most koi owners notice a gradual but noticeable change in their fish’s behavior as the water temperature cools. In general, below 20°C, fish gradually begin to swim more slowly and become less interested in food. It’s important to check your pond’s water temperature because when a fish’s metabolism slows, they can’t effectively digest the rich proteins found in most summer koi feeds. Fish eat summer food in cold water, but cannot digest it properly and build up energy reserves for the winter without eating. In addition, if you feed a summer food in cold water, the fish will produce a lot more waste, which can negatively affect the water quality.

When the water temperature drops to 18°C ​​/ 64°F, begin feeding a quality spring and fall/cold water food such as Microbe-Lift/Legacy, Hikari, Aquascape, or PondMax. A proper cold water diet lists wheat germ as the first ingredient. Koi and goldfish are very good at digesting wheat germ, especially in cold water, allowing them to get more nutritional value from foods containing wheat germ as the main ingredient. We recommend gradually transitioning koi to the cold water diet by mixing it with their summer diet and then gradually increasing the amount. As the temperature drops, gradually reduce the amount you feed your fish as well as the frequency you feed them per day. At around 18°C, feed your koi no more than 2 times per day and if the temperature drops even further reduce feeding to once per day. Once the temperature stays below 48°F / 9°C you should stop feeding altogether. Even if fish are still eating food below this temperature, it can often do more harm than good as the bacteria in their digestive system stop working.

Many pond owners with deeper ponds choose to overwinter their fish outdoors. When fish overwinter in the pond, almost all pond equipment should be removed except for an aerator. Once the pond is closed there isn’t much to do other than check on your fish and make sure there aren’t any major problems. Learn more about how to overwinter fish in the pond.

Is your pond deep enough?

The biggest concern with wintering fish outdoors is whether or not your pond is deep enough. Your pond must not freeze through in the coldest winter months. There should be enough unfrozen water at the bottom of the pond to allow your fish to survive the winter. As a rule of thumb, ponds need to be at least 18 inches deep, ideally 24 inches or more, for fish to overwinter. If you have larger fish like koi, or live in an area with harsh winters, your pond may need to be even deeper (48 to 60 inches) to avoid freezing. Learn more about overwintering fish indoors if you have a shallow pond or non-hardy fish.

Before freezing

Once the surface of the pond freezes there is nothing else to do but keep an eye on your fish and make sure there is an open hole in the ice for oxygen supply. Before the water begins to freeze, it is important to prepare the pond for decommissioning. Remove all debris to keep the pond as clean as possible. The beneficial bacteria are not active in winter, so any dirt sinks to the bottom of the pond and slowly decomposes.

Feeding schedule for winter fish

Because fish are cold-blooded, they need heat from their environment to digest and metabolize food. As the water gets cooler, fish can be fed less frequently and wheat germ can be added to their diet. Once the water in the pond falls below 50°F, they no longer need to be fed.

Remove pond equipment

When the pond water drops to 40°F, the pond pump, fountain and other equipment and decorations should be removed to avoid overcooling and damage. In winter, the water is warmest at the deepest part of the pond. The water closest to the surface is coldest. Hypothermia occurs when the colder surface water quickly mixes with the warmer water at the bottom of the pond, causing the warmer water to suddenly become cold. The rapid drop in temperature stresses pond fish.

As soon as the pond freezes over

ventilation

It is important to keep some surface ice open to allow toxic gases to escape as debris breaks up. Move the aerator to a shallow area of ​​the pond. The aerator circulates the water section and prevents it from freezing. If the water keeps freezing over, you can use a de-icer to prevent ice from forming. You can also pour warm water on the ice to reopen the section. Avoid using force as this can cause stress to your fish.

snow build-up

Snow can prevent sunlight from reaching the pond water. Sunlight is essential as it enables plants and microorganisms in water to photosynthesize. You can use a snow blower, shovel, rake, or broom to remove snow from the pond surface.

Check your fish

In winter, fish are more susceptible to illness and stress because their immune systems are not as active. Check regularly to see if part of the ice is open to allow the water to oxygenate and release harmful gases, and be on the lookout for sick fish. Once the water warms up, you can start planning your reopening.

If a pond is large enough in winter, koi, goldfish, and other hardy fish can congregate or congregate at the bottom of the pond. The unfrozen water at the deepest point is warmest. Fish are cold-blooded, so when the water cools, their metabolism slows down, and they stay at the bottom of the pond until spring, barely swimming and not eating. Preparing your fish for wintering outdoors will ensure a smooth transition. Once the surface freezes, there’s nothing to do but sweep away the snow, make sure some of the ice remains open, and keep an eye out for any major problems in the pond.

W ater gardens are often and rightly perceived as cool oases. In fact, cool water in a pond is more than just aesthetically pleasing. A pond’s water needs to be cool for fish and plants to thrive. High water temperatures are unhealthy for a water garden and can even be fatal. The good news: Hot water problems rarely happen overnight. Emergency measures can reverse water heating problems. And in the long run, some simple techniques can help keep your pond water cool and under control.

Water doesn’t have to be boiling or hot to the touch to cause stress or even real harm to your pond life. In fact, by the time the water temperature rises above 80°F, it’s already too hot for most fish and no fun for your plants either.

A sure sign of trouble is fish gasping near the surface of the water. Warm water has a low capacity to hold oxygen, while cooler water is typically oxygen-rich. For Pisces, warm water and increased activity go hand in hand. But with all this activity, the fish need more oxygen just when less is available.

Biological activity increases with warm water. In conditions of high temperature and low oxygen levels, fish are more susceptible to infection and disease as these are the conditions in which bacteria and parasites thrive.

Fish aren’t the only creatures negatively affected by warm water conditions. Plants can also suffer from extreme heat. Even the leaves of hardy water lilies (Nymphaea) can burn and turn brown in extreme heat as they are cold season plants.

But – it’s important to remember that heat damage rarely happens quickly. It usually takes a long time for a pond to warm up to a deadly temperature. Before that happens, there are things you can do to beat the heat.

Brave the heat in an emergency

If warm water is already a problem in your pond, don’t hesitate. You can save your plants and fish if you give them the help they need before it’s too late.

Here are some quick emergency measures:

If there’s an easy way to instantly create shade across your pond, do it.

Perform a partial water change and add cooler water. If you are changing more than 20% of the water, you must use a dechlorinator, a product that removes the chlorine added by the municipal water supply. Most cities treat water with chlorine, some cities are switching to chloramines (chlorine and ammonia), which are a longer-lasting disinfectant. Make sure you use a complete water treatment product that removes chlorine and chloramines as well as any ammonia left behind from the breakdown of chloramines. Of course, if you use well water, you don’t need any treatment.

Increase the circulation of the water. Even the smallest pond can handle a 3,000 gallon/hour pump. If your pump is rated for less than 3,000 gallons/hour, install one.

Even larger ponds can suffer from a lack of water. Make sure your pump is up to the task. This keeps the water cool and flowing.

If an extra boost is needed, add an air pump to create turbulence and get more oxygen into your pond water.

If your pond overheats even once in a typical summer season in your area, it’s likely to happen again. You should consider making permanent improvements that will not only lower the heat in your pond, but also make it more beautiful and easier to maintain.

Circulation is key to keeping the pond cool. A larger capacity pump can be part of the solution. Adding a waterfall or stream can do more. These elements increase the overall circulation of the pond and keep temperatures down.

Shadow is another important long-term solution. Shading your pond can be quick, easy and beautiful. If your waterfall will be in direct sun, add shrubs, trees, a vine-covered pergola, or other landscape elements to provide cover and make your water garden look more natural.

Trees grow faster than you think, and even a young tree in the right location can instantly provide your pond with some much-needed shade. A decorative bridge, privacy screen or additional boulders can also help to quickly turn a hotspot into a cool refuge.

Sufficient aquatic plants are of course a must. Adding some new water lilies can be quick, easy and very effective; They will soon provide attractive shade for a large area of ​​your pond. A good rule of thumb: let vegetation cover at least 40% of the surface of your water garden.

It is also important to keep the pond clean. A thorough cleaning is recommended once a year in four season climates and every few years in warm climates. And make sure you have lots of useful pebbles and rocks on the ground; These create a friendly environment for good bacteria and help maintain a pond’s ecological vitality.

Finally, does your pond have a large enough space that is about two feet deep? If not, maybe it’s time to add a section to your pond to provide that necessary “deep” water benefit. Deeper water is always cooler than the water above. As the water circulates through the pond, this helps keep the entire ecosystem cool and balanced.

Ultimately it depends on how cool you can or need to keep your pond. A four season pond actually needs to be cooler than a warm weather year round pond. Each will host different types of plants and wildlife. For example, if you live in a very warm climate, your pond may not be a good choice for cold-water fish like koi, but might be perfect for tropical fish like swordtails or tilapia [Editor’s note: koi respond very well to water temperature conditions in central Texas]. Warm-water fish don’t solve everything. Even tropical fish will not thrive when the water temperature approaches 90F. No matter where you water your garden, knowing how to regulate water temperature is smart pond care.

Nothing beats sitting by a backyard pond and sipping a drink surrounded by the sounds of cascading water from a miniature waterfall and fish banging their tails against a gentle tide. However, all good things must come to an end. Over time, leaves begin to cover the ground and a chill begins to permeate the air. As someone on this show would say about zombies and dragons, winter is coming. It’s that time again; Time to think about maintaining your pond pump.

Should I switch off my pond pump in winter?

Whether you leave your pump on or off during the winter depends on two factors: climate and aquatic life. If you live in a climate where temperatures don’t go below freezing, you can easily run the pump all winter long.

However, if you live in colder climates, you might want to turn off the pump in the winter. When the pond water freezes, it can also freeze the pump and cause irreparable damage, in which case you will need to buy a replacement. The freezing point for water is 32 degrees Fahrenheit. If you don’t have aquatic life in your pond, it’s safer to turn off the pump when temperatures drop below freezing to prevent damage to the pump. You may even want to drain your pond as this can prevent damage from ice build-up. Ice expands over time and can damage your pond’s liner.

The main task of a pond pump is to circulate the water in a pond. If you have aquatic life in your pond (like fish, frogs, or turtles), the water needs to be warm enough for them. Circulating water takes longer to freeze than still water, and pumps help keep the water warm enough to support life. If you live in a cold climate, having a pond heater is also a good idea. A pond heater can open a “breathing hole” in the ice, or a place for harmful toxins to escape.

PumpProducts.com sells Little Giant pond pumps at some of the lowest prices on the web. Little Giant offers some of the most reliable models on the market. Regardless of which pond pump model you own, the best way to check your pump’s specific maintenance and operating requirements is to refer to the pump’s manual. Some pond pump models are better suited to colder climates than others. If you’re storing your pump over the winter, you should submerge it in a bucket of water (in a place where the water won’t freeze) to keep the seals lubricated.

Pump Products Applications Engineers are ready to help you find the right pump, including pricing, stock availability and shipping information. Call our toll-free number 1-800-429-0800 to speak to an expert today.

Who wouldn’t want to enjoy a glass of lemonade next to the pond on a warm summer day?

Summer can be one of the best seasons to enjoy the great outdoors in your backyard. But extreme temperatures can put a damper on the fun – for you and your pond life.

Here are 10 tips to keep your fish and plants healthy in the summer heat:

At a glance: summer pond tips

Keep the water oxygenated

Clear debris often

Don’t overfeed fish

monitor water levels

provide shade

Make sure your pond is at least 2 feet deep

Use biological filters and skimmers

combat algae

Keep predators away

Test your water

1. Make sure your fish can breathe

Warm water contains less oxygen than cold water. At the same time, when the temperature rises, your fish are more active and consume more oxygen. This combination can suffocate your fish if you don’t help them.

Consider installing an aerator to add some much-needed oxygen to the water for your finned friends. Aerators will also serve you in winter by pumping oxygen into a partially frozen pond.

How can you tell if your fish aren’t getting enough oxygen? Watch for behaviors such as panting at the water’s surface and congregating near waterfalls or fountains.

2. Remove dirt frequently

Rotting leaves and fish waste are never good for your pond. This is especially true in summer.

Organic materials give off ammonia as they break down, and high levels of ammonia can kill pond fish. Since fish are already stressed in hot weather due to the lower oxygen levels in the water, you don’t want to make matters worse.

Regularly clear debris from your pond, ideally removing material such as leaves and fish food before they sink to the bottom. A good skimmer system makes this job easier. If you don’t have a skimmer, you’ll have to do the work by hand.

3. Don’t overfeed fish

Feeding fish is one of the highlights of being a pond owner in the summer. You can’t feed them in winter, so you might as well enjoy it while you can.

But you can also have too much of a good thing.

Just like fish waste or dead leaves, anything your flowed friends don’t eat will sink to the bottom of your pond and rot. That means more harmful ammonia and less oxygen in your water for your fish.

Feed fish only as much as they will eat in a few minutes and do not feed them more than 1 to 3 times a day. They will also snack on mosquitoes, plant matter, and other things in your pond, so you don’t have to worry about them not getting enough to eat.

Related: How Often Should I Feed My Fish?

4. Keep an eye on the water level

It’s common sense: water evaporates faster in summer. Your pond can lose an inch or more of water every week when the sun is out, especially if you’re spouting a lot of waterfalls or fountains. Don’t strive for a leak repair kit when you notice a small water loss; Simply fill up the pond with water from a garden hose and keep an eye on it. We recommend keeping a bottle of Pond Detox on hand for these occasions. Pond Detox removes chlorine and other harmful chemicals from your tap water and is a must have for those times when you forget to shut off your hose.

(If you continue to experience significant water loss, follow our instructions for finding the source of the problem before scheduling a service visit.)

Summer also brings downpours and thunderstorms, so don’t let your pond overflow. You don’t want to chase fish down the sidewalk.

5. Provide shade for fish

Your fish will not get sunburned. You get hot in the sun.

Koi can survive in water temperatures of up to 90 degrees – anywhere from tepid to hot tub temperature. However, that doesn’t mean they will thrive in such an environment.

Plants like water lilies, lotus and water hyacinth can provide great shade for your pond and help keep the water temperature down. They also hide your fish from predators who might be looking for a quick snack in your pond.

Try to cover between a third and a half of the surface of your pond with aquatic plants. Not only will your fish thank you for the shade, but thanks to the increased nitrate intake, you will also find it easier to control thread algae.

Check out ideas for adding plants to your pond

6. Make sure your pond is deep enough

Deep water has a more stable temperature than shallow water. If you have a very shallow pond – with a maximum depth of less than 2 feet – consider investing in an upgrade. The deeper water stays cooler in summer and warmer in winter.

Deeper water also gives you the opportunity to add larger fish like koi that need space to exercise their vertical swimming muscles.

7. Use biological filters and skimmers

A well designed pond will serve you well at any temperature.

Biological filters draw water from your pond and circulate it through a series of materials that have many nooks and crannies for beneficial bacteria to colonize. These bacteria keep ammonia levels down and help prevent algae — two things that keep your water healthy year-round.

Skimmers also play a crucial role in maintaining your pond’s ecosystem at all temperatures. These filters remove physical debris from your pond much like a pool skimmer, saving you the trouble of scooping debris out with a net. Less debris means less material to rot at the bottom of your pond, which means healthier water.

8. Combat algae

Algae typically thrive in the spring before beneficial bacteria can resettle after their hibernation, but problems can linger into the summer.

Filamentous algae feed on nitrates in your water, so you can starve them out by adding a variety of nitrate-eating plants. Single-celled algae – the kind that turn your water green – eat nitrites, which you can keep to a minimum by stocking your pond with nitrite-eating bacteria.

The good news about algae is that it very rarely poses a threat to fish. You don’t mind green water, and a bit of stringy or wispy algae in your pond is actually a sign of a healthy ecosystem.

9. Watch out for predators

It’s not just your fish that have a little more energy in the summer.

Predators like herons and raccoons often take advantage of the warm weather to treat your pond like an all-you-can-eat sushi buffet. Because your fish have been selectively bred for beautiful color rather than camouflage, they can become easy prey.

Make sure you have plenty of fish caves and other places for pond pets to hide, and invest in humane predator deterrents.

10. Test your water

If your fish are acting strangely – not moving much, swimming in an unusual way, or even dying – try getting your pond water tested. The lack of oxygen during the summer can upset the chemical balance of your pond.

If you live near York, PA, all you have to do is place a small sample of water in a container and bring it to our store. We can test ammonia, pH and other values ​​in just a few minutes.

More pond tips

5 essential water treatments

How does a pond ecosystem work?

How to protect pond fish from predators

How to find a leak in your pond

The ultimate guide to pond fish care