Border Terrier Stripping Near Me? All Answers

We know that a dog’s coat and skin needs regular grooming to keep them healthy, but not all dogs can be groomed with a haircut or shave – some dogs need hand stripping.

As the name suggests, this is done by hand, removing the fur from the root to allow a new fur to grow through.

Each time you clip a dog, you simply remove the top layer of dead hair on the dog’s coat, leaving the roots behind, which can result in a duller coat with each clipping. The hand-stripping process allows the dog to grow a whole new lush coat every time.

Dogs with “undercoat” – a very dense and soft top coat that is wiry and much longer – need to be hand stripped. The growth cycle of this particular type of wiry hair means that it gets thicker and darker as it grows. By pulling out the hair by the root, a healthy new coat can grow back.

If you own a newfie, then you’re already familiar with the term “blow coat” or “seasonal hair loss.”

If you’re new to owning a newfie, or new to owning another breed with a double coat, you may be wondering what the fuzz is up with your dog that’s shedding large clumps of hair.

Rest assured that this is perfectly normal and your dog will not go bald.

Why do dogs blow the coat?

Dogs that have a double coat, with guard hairs on top and a soft, dense undercoat on the underside, blow their coat in preparation for the upcoming season.

Rather than shedding a few hairs here and there, double-coated dogs shed large clumps of their undercoat.

In the spring, this prepares them for the warmer weather ahead and makes room for new, healthy hair to grow in.

How often do dogs blow the coat?

Most breeds that have a double coat blow their undercoat twice a year.

Usually the strongest blow is in the spring and a light blow in the fall.

Many dogs are said to start shedding their coats in spring as daylight increases, but some can start as early as January.

Puppies will not puff up their fur because they have not yet had their full adult coat.

What Dog Breeds Blow Coat?

Normally, any breed of dog that has a double coat will blow their undercoat. Some shed quite a bit more clumps of hair than others.

Common breeds that puff up their fur a lot include the Siberian Husky, Newfoundland, Malamute, Bernese Mountain Dog, Great Pyrenees, German Shepherd, Samoyed, and Akita, to name a few.

Some dogs will blow more fur than others, even within the same breed.

Dogs that spend a lot of time outdoors will usually puff up their fur more than dogs that spend most of their time in a temperature-controlled environment.

How long does the fur blowing last?

Forever.

It takes forever.

Just kidding.

Sometimes it seems like it’s going to take forever, especially when you’re brushing out an entire dog one day and the next day there’s still tumbleweeds blowing through your house.

How long a dog blows its coat depends on its coat and the thickness of its undercoat.

Most dogs will inflate their coats from anywhere in a few weeks to just over a month.

Other things that can determine how long dogs puff up their fur can depend on health, age, genetics, and hormones.

Some dogs have a spray coat.

After they are altered, their fur becomes thicker and more difficult to manage. Some can blow more than before they were changed.

I have no personal experience with spray coats, so I can’t give a good example.

Tips for dealing with your dog’s blowing fur

Managing your dog’s coat when it’s blowing takes time and care.

It is usually recommended that you groom your dog on a daily basis if he is shedding large amounts of hair.

You can divide the care sessions into 15-minute blocks.

Using a rake and comb are the best methods for removing the loose lint.

Line combing may take longer but is the best way to remove dog hair efficiently.

Using a high speed dog dryer is an excellent and quick way to easily blow out the loose hair before brushing.

Many dog ​​owners also take their dogs to the groomer when they blow their coats to remove most of the loose hair

If you’re caring for your dog at home, now is a good time to check their skin and make sure it’s healthy and hasn’t suffered from the harsh, dry conditions of winter.

Take a deep breath, clean your vacuum cleaner filters and know that this too will pass around the same time as mud season ends.

What to do with all that extra fluff

Many people just throw away all dog hair, but some people recycle it.

You can send it to someone to be cleaned and made up, who will often turn it into yarn that can be felted into mittens, scarves, or even many different things.

You can save some to offer to the birds as nesting material in the spring.

Just make sure it’s free of chemicals like grooming spray and topical flea medications.

If you have longer dog hair, you can cut the dog hair into smaller pieces so that it doesn’t get caught around the little birdie’s legs.

You can also use dog hair as a deer repellent in your yard.

I’ve been doing this for the past few years and it seems to help keep the deer away.

Many people also place some clumps of dog hair under porches or decks to deter rodents.

Save some hair for a keepsake embellishment.

I love this idea and Sherman and Leroy both made an ornament with the name written in it and filled it with dog hair.

I will always have a piece of this.

Sharing is caring!

When it comes to keeping your dog’s skin and coat healthy, the best thing you can do is groom them regularly. It’s kind of obvious, but it’s true. For some dogs, regular grooming means little more than a few brushings per week. However, for other dogs, grooming is much more complicated and tiring. Some dogs have a coat that requires a special grooming method called hand stripping. This is a complicated process, and one that not necessarily every pet owner can master (hey, that’s what professional groomers are for, right?). So what is hand stripping? Can you do it yourself if your dog needs it? Spoiler alert: Of course, with the right preparation and training, this is possible. All answers are below. So stay on this page and keep scrolling to learn more.

This is a sponsored placement

Certain dog breeds require a specific grooming routine, such as B. hand stripping to keep their fur in tip-top shape. However, hand stripping can be difficult if you’re new to it, and many pet owners choose to go to a professional instead. Luckily, pet care plans like Vital Care can help you keep care costs to a minimum. Petco’s Vital Care offers you an affordable solution to taking care of your pet’s routine wellness needs. Not only does this plan cover the cost of unlimited vet check-ups, but it also offers unlimited 30% discounts on comprehensive grooming services and monthly rewards that can be used to buy food, toys and more. Unlike traditional pet insurance, this pet care program helps you reduce the likelihood of health problems occurring in the first place, rather than treating them after the fact. Their complete wellness care ensures your pet is taken care of from head to toe, with regular checkups and grooming. This easy-to-enroll and affordable pet care plan ensures your dog receives only the best care, even if you’re on a tight budget.

LEARN MORE HERE

Handstripping is a type of grooming method that dog owners use to remove excess hair from their dog’s coat. The most common method of dog grooming is clipping. This method uses electric clippers to trim or shave the top layer of hair on a dog’s coat. The difference between shearing and hand stripping is that hand stripping is not just done by hand, it also removes the fur from the root (not just the top layer) to allow a new coat to grow in. Each time you clip a dog’s coat, instead of pulling the coat off by hand, you’re only removing the top layer of dead coat, rather than pulling it away from the roots. As a result, the fur can dull in texture and color with each clipping, which is why many people find hand stripping preferable. Is it an ideal solution for every dog? Of course not, it always depends on the dog and the coat. For some dogs it is not only the best solution, but also the only one.

What Dog Breeds Need Hand Stripping?

When it comes to hand stripping, coat type matters more than dog breed. Of course, certain dog breeds have specific types of coats, so you can obviously identify some breeds that need to be hand-stripped based on their breed alone. That’s just not a universal truth. The type of fur that must be hand-stripped produces two types of hair: the undercoat (which is soft and dense) and the topcoat (which is longer and wiry in texture). Hand stripping involves removing the dead hair from the top coat by pulling it out by the roots, rather than simply cutting it off. By removing the hair completely, you make room for the new coat to grow in. Dogs with wiry coats go through a specific growth cycle in which the hair gets thicker and darker as it grows. If you do not remove the dead hair from the top coat, it will negatively affect the overall appearance of the coat. This is why this process is so important for dogs that have this very specific coat style that is difficult to work with.

Related: Understanding Your Dog’s Special Grooming Needs

Some of the breeds that have a coat that needs to be hand-stripped include (but are not limited to):

Tips for hand stripping your dog’s fur

Hand stripping a dog’s coat can be tricky if you don’t know how to do it. So before attempting it yourself, it is recommended that you have a professional groomer show you the correct method. To hand strip your dog’s coat, you should place him on a stable surface (like a counter or grooming table). It can also help if you have someone to hold your dog in place if he’s nervous about being high up. Take a few strands of hair and grasp them between your thumb and forefinger, then gently pull in the direction of hair growth to remove the hair. When your dog’s fur is ready to be stripped, the hair will come out easily and it will not cause your dog any pain. While literally pulling your dog’s hair out may seem strange and you may worry about causing him distress, the process is completely natural and painless provided it’s done at the right time. For example, you may need to strip your dog’s coat more frequently in the summer than in the winter, and it may be best to strip it in stages over a period of weeks rather than all at once. A lot of this depends on your specific dog and their specific coat. There are few hard and fast rules here, so you need to monitor his coat and act accordingly.

Some additional information and helpful tips on hand stripping

When it comes to hand stripping, pet owners have many questions at first, especially if they are new to this type of grooming and are hoping to do it themselves rather than simply going to a groomer to do the job. We get it. This can all seem a little intimidating. There are good reasons for it. Hand stripping needs to be handled with care to be effective. However, if you know what you’re doing and what to expect, it doesn’t have to be a scary task. It’s important to have questions and concerns. So we’re here to ease your concerns and provide some answers.

For example, one of the most frequently asked questions about hand stripping is how often it needs to be done to keep a dog’s coat nice and healthy. In general, you can hand strip your dog’s coat every four to six weeks, but if your pet’s coat is a rather slow grower, you can probably wait up to eight weeks before hand stripping again. It all depends on the dog and its coat. Essentially you want to give the coat enough time to grow back and you want to grow in the layers so they are even. While this may sound difficult to identify, after a few rounds, you’ll pretty easily notice when your dog’s coat is ready for another round of hand stripping.

Other people ask if they should bathe their dogs before hand stripping their fur. Simply put, it’s not a good idea to bathe your pooch before hand undressing. The bath will soften your pet’s skin and fur, and when that happens, the fur will become more difficult to remove by hand. Also, it will make your poor dog uncomfortable. You want the hair to be as dry and brittle as possible before you pull it off by hand. This will make the process easier for you and less uncomfortable for your dog.

If you want his coat to be on the shorter side, you can shear or trim the coat further down after hand-grooming your dog. However, some grooming experts don’t bother with this step because it could end up changing the flow and texture of the pet’s coat, making it harder for the coat to repel things like water and dirt. It’s probably healthiest to let the hair grow naturally, but some people are more interested in styling their dog than grooming. In this case cut away. Do this with caution.

Another question that is often asked when it comes to hand stripping a dog’s coat relates to the steps involved. In general, handstripping can be divided into three different sections. The first section would be the dog’s jaw line, ears, cheeks, head and neck area. The cut section would be the sides and back of the dog. Finally, the third section would be the legs, eyebrows, and beard. Sometimes it may be easier for you and your dog to split the hand stripping process into three separate sessions that focus on each of these three separate sections. Other times, it might be best to do it all in one epic hand-stripping session. Either way, it’s best to break the job down into these three separate sections to make the process a little easier and more organized.

Remember that proper hand stripping involves pulling the hair out in the direction of growth. If you hand pull a wire-coated dog, it will have exposed hair follicles that will allow the hair to come out surprisingly easily. It’s also worth noting that hand stripping can be time-consuming, not only while you’re learning how to do it, but once you get the hang of the routine. For this reason, rather than doing it all yourself at home, you may choose to have your dog hand stripped by a professional groomer who has plenty of experience and who will make the grooming session as quick and convenient for you as possible can doggy. However, when it comes to deciding whether you want to take a DIY approach to handstriping, it’s really up to you and your dog.

Are you ready to try handstripping? just be patient

Grooming is an integral part of being a dog owner and a task that can be challenging with certain breeds. With a little training, you can take care of most of your dog’s hand stripping needs yourself to keep him looking and feeling his best. This is an important responsibility as a dog owner, but also a tricky process. There’s no shame in leaving this care in the hands of a professional when it seems too daunting. However, if you’re looking to hand strip your dog’s coat yourself, hopefully we’ve demystified the process to be less intimidating.

Do you have any tips for hand stripping your dog at home? If so, we’d love to hear them. Please leave your tips in the comments below.

Border Terriers are working dogs bred to guard livestock and hunt in the field. They are small dogs weighing 10 to 15 pounds, with a muscular build and a wiry coat. Friendly and easy to train, Border Terriers make good companion animals and watchdogs. High-spirited and affectionate, but not needy, they make good family dogs. Like all working breeds, these energetic little terriers require lots of attention and exercise, daily exercise and a secure, fenced yard. The coat requires regular brushing and occasional stripping to keep it in shape.

health and nutrition

Step 1

border terrier image by OneToRemember from Fotolia.com

Familiarize yourself with the health issues that sometimes affect the breed. Genetic diseases known to affect Border Terriers include hip dysplasia; luxating patella, which can lead to lameness in the affected leg; heart defects, particularly pulmonary stenosis and heart murmurs; hypothyroidism; seizures; misalignments or misalignments of the jaws; and undescended testicles. Take your Border Terrier to their veterinarian regularly for health checks and a vaccination schedule.

step 2

Watch for changes in your pet’s behavior that may indicate a health problem. According to the DogTime website, Border Terriers have a high pain threshold and are quiet and withdrawn when sick.

step 3

Feed up to 1 3/8 cups of high quality dry dog ​​food per day over two meals. Adjust the amount based on your pet’s individual needs and condition. Border Terriers tend to have weight problems. Look at him when you measure his food to see if he’s gaining or losing weight. Feel his body to see if you can feel his ribs slightly. You should be able to feel them but not see them. Your Border Terrier should have fresh water available at all times.

exercise and training

Step 1

Treat your dog early and often to get them used to being groomed. Start training him as soon as you get him using positive reinforcement. Avoid harsh forms of correction. Border Terriers are intelligent but independent dogs, meaning they are good learners but sometimes choose to ignore commands. Proper training is vital to your dog’s well-being, safety, and ability to blend smoothly into the family.

step 2

Train your Border Terrier on a leash, keep him on a leash and be aware of his behavior when you take him on outings as this breed is brave and has a tendency to run away. Your dog could encounter a variety of dangers while chasing a small animal. Pay attention to your Border Terrier’s body language. The dogs tend to carry their tails up when warned, an early signal that your pet may be about to act. Border Terriers who have left their boundaries are at risk of being hit by a car. Border Terriers are friendly and will approach strangers, putting them at risk of being kidnapped.

step 3

Socialize your Border Terrier with people and dogs from an early age. Once he has all his vaccinations, take him with you as much as possible when you are out and let him learn about the larger world. Border Terriers sometimes show aggression towards other dogs. It’s important that your pet is socialized from the start so they know how to get along with other dogs properly. Reconsider choosing this breed if you have small pets, especially rodents. Border Terriers do not get along well with cats and will hunt small pets.

step 4

Prepare your yard and home for your Border Terrier. The Border Terrier Club UK website refers to these little dogs as “runaways”. They jump and climb over fences, climb through small holes and dig – part of their heritage of hunting small animals in their burrows. Because of their resourcefulness, they need tall, solid fences. The Border Terrier Club UK also recommends putting wire mesh on the bottom of the fence and then burying the netting to prevent your dog from digging underneath. Give your Border Terrier a wire crate that will be his safe place in your home and when you travel. This will be a familiar and comfortable place to be whenever he needs to be secured.

step 5

Exercise your Border Terrier vigorously for at least half an hour daily to promote overall health and weight control. Keep him active and engaged to reduce negative behaviors like barking and digging and allow him to live happily ever after with you. .Agility and obedience trials are excellent forms of exercise for this breed, and Border Terriers also enjoy flyball. Their high endurance makes them good running companions; They are built to keep up with horses. If you go walking your Border Terrier, keep the activity going until the chilly hours, carry water, keep him securely on a leash, and check the condition of his feet frequently for signs of damage.

personal hygiene

Step 1

Brush your Border Terrier at least weekly. Coat length varies by breed, and the frequency of brushing depends in part on your dog’s coat type. Typically, Border Terriers are thick-skinned, with a wiry top coat over a dense undercoat.

step 2

Bathe your Border Terrier infrequently, just to remove stubborn odors or heavy, caked dirt. Otherwise, brush him dry and then wipe with a damp cloth to preserve his coat’s oils and weatherproof properties. Use dog shampoo and work it into the undercoat when bathing. Then brush more frequently in the days after bathing to redistribute new oils into his coat.

step 3

Complete all grooming procedures before bathing your pet; Loose hair will be washed away in the bath, allowing the shampoo to penetrate better, and it will be easier to grab the hair for tugging removal.

step 4

Gull your dog’s coat every two to six months when they have a full coat — meaning they have both a wiry coat and undercoat. Stripping removes dead and dying hair from the top coat and gives your Border Terrier a neatly groomed and non-shaggy appearance. It’s a matter of preference to leave the coat natural, but stripping it will reduce heavy shedding. Plain coat Border Terriers do not need to be stripped.

step 5

What is hand stripping?

Handstripping is a grooming process in which dead hair is removed from the coat by hand rather than clipping to keep the coat clean and healthy. Usually done twice a year in spring and fall, it speeds up the natural process of growth and shedding.

True hand stripping is exactly that – the groomer pulls the outer guard hairs out of the coat entirely by hand when the coat is blow-dried. However, it’s common to use tools like wire strippers and stones to aid in the process.

What Dog Breeds Can Be Hand Stripped?

Dogs with wiry coats usually need to be hand-stripped to meet the breed standard. This includes most of the Terrier group. Other breeds that require hand stripping include:

schnauzer

Cocker Spaniels

Irish wolfhounds

Wire Fox Terrier

Wirehaired pointers

wire-haired dachshund

border terrier

Quick tips for hand stripping

There are a number of methods to make hand stripping easier and more effective:

Pull in the direction of hair growth

Support the skin with gentle pressure

Pluck only the longer hairs, which are usually around 2-5 cm long

Try finger cots or Chalk Power to improve grip

Work with an even rhythm and only remove a few hairs at a time

Don’t be too clumsy when using a wire stripper – use it to help pull the hair instead of cutting the hair

Hand stripping is not painful when done properly, and many dogs actually enjoy it.

About hair growth in wiry coats

There are 4 stages to wire hair growth,

Anagen Phase: This is when the hair follicles enter the GROWTH PHASE.

Catagen Phase: This is the TRANSITIONAL PHASE when the hair stops growing and the outer root sheath adheres to the hair.

Telogen Phase: The RESTING PHASE when hair is still and not growing or falling out.

Exogenous Phase: The FALLOUT PHASE, when the hair falls out and a new hair grows

Once the hair is in the telogen phase, the dog is ready to be hand pulled as the root follicle detaches from the dermal papilla, allowing the hair to be pulled without causing damage or stress to the dog.

WHY IS HANDSTRIPPING THE BEST METHOD FOR WIRE HAIRED DOGS?

Hand stripping targets the older hairs that are in the exogenous growth phase. These older, dull hairs are easily pulled out, leaving room for new, stronger hair to grow through. This ensures the coat has a fuller, shinier texture and more vibrant color

It’s recommended to trim instead of clipping or scissors because these methods, instead of removing old hair, simply trim the old dull hair. Fresh new hair has no room to grow through. More importantly, by trimming your wiry dog’s coat, you can prevent the coat from growing properly and may not be able to be hand-grazed in the future.

WHAT IS REQUIRED TO GROOM A WIRED COAT AT HOME?

There are a number of supplies that are essential to keeping any wiry dog ​​breed at home in between hand stripping appointments. These include: –

WIRY BREED SHAMPOO

It’s important not to bathe a wiry coat too often as this can cause the hair to dry out. When bathing your dog, it’s important that you use a shampoo specifically formulated for wiry breeds due to the unique composition of their coat. If your dog is dirty, it pays to give him a bath and towel before grooming to make the job easier.

Wiry coat breeds also have different skin than many other breeds, which brings with it a variety of separate grooming considerations, all of which should be addressed with wiry breed shampoos. There are a number of brands out there, here at The Pet Retreat we use Wildwash shampoos all made from natural ingredients.

DETANGLE COMB

It’s common for wiry dog ​​coats to get tangled, especially in hard-to-reach places like the armpits. It’s always worth having a detangling comb handy for this. These special grooming tools help de-mat the coat. When using the comb, be gentle and focus on the ends of the hair first, working your way down and closer to the skin. Matted hair can hurt a dog when pulled, so take your time to cause as little stress as possible.

Slicker brush

Although a wiry dog ​​breed doesn’t need the same daily grooming routine as many long-haired breeds, it’s still important that you maintain a regular brushing routine. We recommend a smoother brush for this. These consist of thin wires angled away from the pet’s skin. They help degrease the coat and remove any debris or dead hair that may be resting on the skin. For wiry breed dogs, we recommend using a slicker brush with fine bristles.

If you’ve ever owned a terrier or wire-coated breed, then you’ve probably heard a little about hand stripping.

But for people outside of these races, hand stripping might seem like a strange and even uncomfortable practice. I can assure you that hand stripping is not only painless, it benefits the dog greatly.

Let me explain what we do, why it’s beneficial, and how professionals actually do it.

What is hand stripping?

Hand stripping involves manually removing dead hair from the follicle to encourage new hair growth with a naturally thick and bristly texture.

Why is that important? In summary:

By manually removing hair from the skin, you help maintain the correct coat texture and color. This is ideal for working breeds like terriers.

If we were to cut hair (with clippers or scissors) it would likely damage the fur permanently (more on that later).

Remember that this process will not cause any pain or discomfort if done properly.

Wiry breeds go through a cycle where the hair reaches a maximum length and is ready to be pulled. In the past, working terriers were naturally groomed by running through bushes, hunting, tunneling, or just going about their day.

Without these daily activities, the follicles have trouble shedding hair, causing the coat to overgrow (also known as “blown out” coat).

At this point, the hair is easily removed from the follicle.

Grooming coordinates with this cycle to manually remove dead and loose hair while at the same time shaping the coat to look more stylish.

The average pet only needs to be stripped every 3 to 6 months, but more frequent brushing will make for a more desirable “show coat.” Show dogs are plucked weekly, often several days a week.

What Dogs Are Hand Stripped?

Any dog ​​with a wiry coat that is easy to remove can be hand stripped. This includes most terrier breeds, as well as some sporting or gun dog breeds. Many southern area mixed terrier dogs also have a “peelable” coat.

Here some examples:

Airdale Terrier

Wirefox terrier

wirehaired dachshund

schnauzer

border terrier

West Highland White Terriers

Irish wolfhounds

Why can’t we use hair clippers?

Using a clipper on a wire sheath will cause long-term or permanent damage!

When stripping, the hair is completely removed from the skin. By removing individual hairs, we stimulate the hair root and encourage new, thick, wiry hairs to take their place.

Cutting the hair (with clippers or scissors) does not remove the root, and the hair often does not grow back properly.

Cut (not pulled) hair:

Regrow thin and silky, creating a nightmare of tangles and tangles.

Will be difficult to clean and will retain bad odors.

Colors appear diluted or faded, or go completely white.

The end result of clipping hair (rather than stripping it) completely changes the look and feel of your dog and makes their coat much more difficult to groom.

Why do some dogs have a wire coat?

The history of wire coats can be traced back to the origins of the terrier breed.

The word “terrier” comes from the old French name Chien Terrier – which translates to “earth dog” – and is indicative of its purpose rather than the breed itself. These dogs should tunnel in search of vermin.

Terrier dogs helped hunters and farmers in the 19th century in their search for rabbits, badgers, rats and other small vermin. They were later bred with dogs and other breeds to improve their hunting skills.

The fitted, coarse coat offers natural protection during hunting and tunneling, as well as:

A protective layer against pest bites.

Protection from rough undergrowth, ridges and branches.

Dust, dirt and water fall off a wire sheath easily.

Long eyebrows protect the terrier’s eyes from dirt and bites while they are “in the hole”.

stages of hair growth

Similar to human hair, dog hair goes through a continuous growth and shedding cycle.

Anagen is the initial growth phase for new hair. The hair grows continuously from the roots. During this phase, hair growth can range from 5 days to 7 years.

Catagen is the transition phase when hair reaches its full length and stops growing.

Telogen is the dormant phase where hair rests in the root while new hair grows underneath. The old hair will eventually be ready to be shed, or in this case, hand stripped.

Each phase can be affected by age, diet (or dietary changes), stress, and overall health.

Handstripping is the removal of hair after the telogen phase. Pulling hairs triggers a response in the follicle that encourages new hairs to grow – while retaining their original coarse texture.

Like Groomer’s Hand Strip

Your dog has two layers of fur – an undercoat (the soft, insulating bottom layer) and a coarse, protective outer layer called a guard coat or top coat.

Each individual hair follicle contains several hairs from both the undercoat and the protective coat.

When we remove the undercoat, we encourage more top coat to take its place.

Again, the goal is to promote a thick and structured coat called a jacket. At the same time, we shape the coat into our desired style.

As the name suggests, handstripping can be done with just your hands. However, tools will make the job a little easier (especially for newcomers).

In our Handstripping Masterclass, we dive deeper into the best tools for each breed.

stripping knife

Don’t let the name of the wire stripper confuse you – this knife is not designed for cutting.

The duller your knife, the better. They’re simply a blunt-toothed comb that allows groomers to get a better grip (before stripping knives were widespread, groomers often used a blunt butter knife).

The groomer grasps the hair between the flat side of the blade and the thumb, then gently pulls it in the direction of growth. The teeth help guide the fur into your finger and onto the face of the blade.

Knives come in 4 main varieties:

Extra Fine (or Detail) – For head, ears, face

Fine – Head, Neck, Finish all areas

Medium – body, legs

Coarse – bodied, large breeds

My personal set of wire strippers, with padding on the handles.

Each blade is a comb with teeth of different densities. A coarse comb will let more hair through untouched, while an “extra fine” comb will remove most of the hair.

Finer blades are used for finer detail work (e.g. the face), while coarser blades are used for the body or large breeds.

Unfortunately, there is no one size fits all – you need all four knives to complete a full groom. However, there is an alternative method using a whetstone (which we will discuss later).

Remember: Wire strippers are never intended to cut hair and are therefore fairly blunt. If your knife cuts into hair, manual blunting on a rough surface is recommended.

I personally have a chalk and sand filled rug sample from a hardware store that I’ll be rubbing my knives on. Others cut open a cardboard box before blunting it with their knives. Never use a fresh knife on a dog.

mining stones

A whetstone, a metallic stone, and a pumice stone

Stripping stones are a great all in one tool that can card and strip. Their rough surface allows hairs to be gripped without cutting or digging into the skin.

If you are just starting out, I recommend using a stone as it can be used for multiple tasks – such as: B. carding and for finer details such as face or neck.

Bonus tip: If the rock is too big for your hands, try cutting it in half.

carding knife

Carding knives come in many shapes and sizes, and many stripping knives can be used for carding by switching from a drawing to a raking technique.

We “card” as the very first step in the process to remove excess undercoat and allow for easier manual stripping with our stripping knives.

undercoat rake

For breeds with thicker coats, an undercoat rake with blades can be helpful. But it’s not a suitable replacement for a carding knife or stripping stone.

I only recommend these if you have a very thick haired large breed.

I often use an undercoat rake on Airedales, Lakelands and wire foxes. Some breeds may not need to have their undercoat removed (Dachshunds, for example, don’t typically have as much undercoat as their leggy terrier counterparts).

Hand Stripping Techniques

raking/carding

This is usually the first step in the process (if necessary). Carding or raking is the removal of undercoat with a knife, pumice stone, or undercoat rake. This also encourages the jacket to lay flat, allowing for easier hand peeling in the next step.

Remember, just because we’re using a carding knife doesn’t always mean we’re actually carding. Carding is the removal of the undercoat (with whatever tool we feel is necessary at this point).

Pluck

Plucking is essentially stripping with your hands. Groomers hold the skin tight and pull a few hairs at a time with their fingertips. This is a slow and methodical process that requires a high level of skill.

stripping

Wire stripping uses a hand stripping tool. We use an assortment of hand held wire strippers for different parts of the body. Always pull in the direction of the grain.

Remember: wire strippers don’t actually cut—they’re there to get a tight grip. Always make sure your knives are blunt beforehand.

roll

Rolling is a method of removing the undercoat by folding the skin into a roll to reveal long undercoat hairs. The long hair is then removed by stripping or plucking.

patterns and styles

Think of hand stripping as the process and sculpting and styling as the desired end result.

Most breeds have their own unique grooming style. This is especially important if you are hand stripping for the show ring.

Wire-haired dachshunds, for example, should have a slim body and look almost like a smooth-haired dachshund, but with a prominent beard and eyebrows. (Learn more about hand stripping wire-haired dachshunds)

While the Irish Wolfhound has a “rustic” appearance that almost seems untidy.

At the beginning of this process, it’s important to study each breed and their unique grooming requirements.

I am showing a fully hand stripped Wirehaired Dachshund

security

Hand stripping is best left to the professionals.

This process, if done incorrectly, can be very uncomfortable for your dog. Common mistakes include stripping too short, removing far too much fur, or using the wrong technique or tools.

If you are causing large bald patches with redness, bumps, or a rash, STOP immediately.

Bathe

A newly stripped dog will have open follicles and very sensitive skin for several days. Bathing immediately afterwards must be done with great care.

The truth about bathing

Bathing is a hot topic in the hand stripping world right now.

Many multi-generational handlers never bathe their dog jackets, preferring to quickly wipe them down with water and Listerine.

Newer groomers are learning more and more about skin science and how bathing actually helps the dog’s skin.

That being said, bathing a bare dog should be done with extreme caution!

Bathing striped dogs can easily introduce an infection. Therefore I always recommend you:

Use cool water and a very gentle shampoo (Artero “Relax” is specially made for stripped dogs).

Make sure your bottles/cups/containers are cleaned and sanitized.

Your towel must be brand new or freshly laundered.

When in doubt, bathe 2-3 weeks before stripping and wait a week after stripping to bathe your dog.

Important terms to remember

Here are a few terms you’re likely to hear from hand-stripping groomers:

Jacket refers to the coarse outer coat, or guard hair, of your wire-coated breed.

Carding is the first stage of manual stripping, where we remove excess undercoat with a “carding knife”. This allows the jacket to lie flat, allowing for easier hand peeling.

Rollers – Take the skin and form a roller so that the longest hairs can be plucked quickly and easily without pulling on the shorter underlayers.

Plucking is hand stripping without the aid of tools (just your hands). This is only done by experienced caregivers.

Jammies refers to a dog that is “naked” or stripped very short to the undercoat.

In the Rough is a dog with a fully grown and unkempt coat.

Staging removes different sections of the dog at different times to help you achieve the desired result. For example: The longest parts of the coat are pulled first and left for 6-8 weeks to make the dog perfect for a dog show. Dogs are smoothed out like baby skin in these areas.

Molding is the process of hand stripping to achieve a specific style or “shape”.

Furnishings are the long hair on the legs, head, and abdomen.

Top Coat / Guard Coat – The coarse layer of the coat.

Undercoat – The softer and thicker undercoat of the coat.

Here’s how to start hand stripping

Hand stripping can be a tricky process; There are hundreds of tools out there, each breed has a different pattern and it’s easy to take off too much and leave holes in the fur.

Above all, you don’t want to make your dog uncomfortable.

That’s more than I can explain in a single article. In our Hand Stripping Masterclass we go into the finer details.

Our Masterclass is a video course for snowcats of all levels (even absolute beginners) and covers:

All “Do’s and Don’ts”

The best tools for the job

The entire hand stripping process is explained in detail

Step by step how I hand patrol dogs from start to finish

How I Made Award Winning Grooms In A Short Time

If you are interested in attending the next online class intake, you can find out more here.

: a metal blade with a serrated edge used for plucking or stripping a dog’s fur

: a metal blade with a serrated edge used for plucking or stripping a dog’s fur

: a metal blade with a serrated edge used for plucking or stripping a dog’s fur

love words?

You must – there are over 200,000 words in our free online dictionary, but you’re looking for one that’s only in the Merriam-Webster Unabridged Dictionary.

Start your free trial today and get unlimited access to America’s largest dictionary with:

More than 250,000 words not in our free dictionary

Extended definitions, etymologies and usage notes

Advanced search functions

Ad-free!

What is hand stripping?

When hand stripping, the dead top coat is pulled out manually.

This allows the fresh fur to grow in. A dog’s hair follicle consists of a thick top coat and many soft undercoat hairs. The undercoat has a fluffier texture and a duller color – this is the fur that will form furballs all over your house! A process called carding removes this soft coat and is particularly necessary on the wire coat to keep the follicle from becoming clogged. The thick guard hair is what is pulled when the coat is hand stripped. This can be done by hand plucking or with a specially designed wire stripper. Please note that there are many groomers who claim to do hand stripping but misuse the tools or use tools like Coat Kings, these damage the top coat and are NOT what is considered traditional hand stripping. You may notice that the fur curls up in places where the hair has been cut.

​

Does it hurt my dog?

​

Many people believe that hand stripping is painful. Since the fur to be removed has already died, the process is not associated with any pain. If done incorrectly, especially if the wrong hair is pulled, this can be uncomfortable for the dog. A knowledgeable groomer will know how to properly introduce your dog to hand stripping. After getting used to the routine, most dogs will take a nap on the table.

Personal hygiene:

Border Terriers have a double coat consisting of a tough, waterproof top coat and a soft, warming undercoat. There are some Borders that either have no or only a sparse undercoat. This is wrong for the breed. There are also some who have a very long, rather sparse top coat. These are often blue and brown. Border Terriers require little grooming. They should be brushed for a few minutes every day. This will remove dead hair and also loose undercoat. Brushing removes dry dirt on the fur.

A border should never be bathed except in an extreme emergency, such as B. in a cowpat. Most common dirt is brushed out after drying. The top coat is waterproof and shampoo, even the mildest can remove the oil. Once the oil is removed, the coat is no longer waterproof and picks up dirt much more easily. It is much better to just use lukewarm water without any shampoo or detergent.

Cut nails:

The guideline for nail clipping is “little and often”. From the age of three weeks, puppies should have their nails trimmed regularly. Just about a millimeter at a time, being very careful not to cut into the blood vessel or nerve. This is painful for the puppy and once it has happened the puppy will be reluctant to let you touch his paws.

The extent of natural wear of the nails depends on how much walking on the road along the border and how much digging in the garden. Don’t forget the dew claws as they don’t get wear and tear. Whether the new puppy has dewclaws or not depends on the breeder. Some remove them when the puppies are a few days old, others don’t.

stripping:

Eventually the top layer stops growing and dies off and needs to be removed. The undercoat often grows at different rates and is removed with normal daily brushing.

When the top coat is ready to be pulled off, the dog will develop a parting on the back and if a few hairs are caught they can be pulled out easily. Remember that a Border Terrier is hand stripped. The best way to learn is to have an experienced Border Terrier person show you how. There is also a very good DVD and video produced by AMP Productions, “Canine Coat Care. Border Terrier” showing Kate Irving (Dandyhow) how to undress a Border Terrier. Kate is one of the most experienced Border Terrier people in the country and this video is truly excellent. (AMP Productions’ website is www.caninecoatcare.com).

Never, ever clip a Border Terrier’s coat. This leaves the roots of the dead hair behind, interfering with the growth of new hair. The result will be a horrible, tangled, soft mess. Don’t use stripping knives that can cut the hair, these also leave behind the dead roots and part of the hair shaft, and some of the so-called rakes can actually cut the skin. When stripping by hand it is often necessary to use scissors to trim the nails around the lower abdomen and in the case of a dog around the scrotum and penis as these parts are very delicate.

The average groomer has no idea how to hand-patch a Border Terrier, so don’t let your dog anywhere near a Border Terrier. There are a few groomers who know how to groom a Border Terrier and several have their names on Border Terrier World’s website, www.borderterrierworld.co.uk, some of them may allow you to watch them groom your dog move out.

Border Terrier ~ Four recognized colors

Kennel Club breed standard

You will notice the difference in coat color with every Border Terrier you meet. The Kennel Club has four recognized colors in the breed standard:

Red

Grizzle and Tan

blue and tan

Wheaten – it’s very hard to find photos of a real Wheaten Border Terrier, they are very rare, I think this is the closest I would imagine a Wheaten Coat.

Accepted Variations

Dog Left = Grizzle Dog Right = Blue & Tan

However, they list 10 colors that would be accepted when registering your Border Terrier, showing the variations found:

blue & tan,

dark Grizzle,

dark grizzle & tan,

grizzly bear,

grizzly,

grizzle & tan,

light grey,

Red,

Red Grizzle; and

Wheat.

Border terrier puppies

Seeing a litter of Border Terrier puppies doesn’t give you much clue as to what coloring they will be when they grow up as they look very dark to the human eye, almost black on the body. Obviously, being able to see the mother and/or father gives you a clue (and it’s always recommended that you see the litter with one or both parents). However, since Barney in our case was a rescue pup and he doesn’t have Kennel Club registration details, we’d guess he’s Grizzle & Loh!

Puppies are either black & tan (body hair is black with tan legs) or grizzle and tan (dark body hair and lighter colored legs). Black & Tan puppies will turn blue and tan as adults, as they grow white silver-grey hairs will develop in the black coat giving it a bluish tint.

The most common color in puppies, grizzle and tan, develops into various shades of grizzle as gray, white, brown, red, and sandy lighter coarse hair grows through their soft puppy coat. Wheaten and Red are very rare and not often found in Border Terriers.

Other Border Terrier markings

You may also notice a white “fur” on her chest, Barney has this and although it seemed large when he was a pup it has diminished with age but it is very cute, almost a “kiss curl”. white on chest. I have also noticed a white/greyish ‘ring’ or ‘band’ around the tail on other Border Terriers as well as Barney, this was very noticeable when he was a puppy but as he got older the white mixed in again the other colors and it’s not so noticeable now. When Borders are hand stripped, which is usually twice a year, they look lighter due to the shedding of much darker, coarse hair that will gradually grow back, giving them back their darker grizzly coloration.

How Border Terriers Age

Border Terriers are known for their otter-like heads and fabulous beards! As they age, the beard begins to gray, along with their eyebrows and body fur. However, the beard is very noticeable, Barney is turning 5 this year and his beard and eyebrows are turning grey, it’s adorable.

I have met some wonderful older border terriers, some as old as 16-17 years old, many of them have beards and faces are silvery white, they look as beautiful and cute as ever but in a different way than they do as puppies were.

Obsessed with border terriers

But to be honest, if you’re infatuated with Borders like us, then unless you want to be in the show ring, you don’t care what color they are. In this case, make sure your pup does not have full white paws as this would never happen with a full pedigree.

To learn more about caring for your dog’s coat, visit our blog full of dog grooming tips you can use at home.

Barney and I would love to see pictures of your Borders and their fur in many colors! Upload your photos to our Facebook page.

What is hand stripping?

Handstripping is a grooming process in which dead hair is removed from the coat by hand rather than clipping to keep the coat clean and healthy. Usually done twice a year in spring and fall, it speeds up the natural process of growth and shedding.

True hand stripping is exactly that – the groomer pulls the outer guard hairs out of the coat entirely by hand when the coat is blow-dried. However, it’s common to use tools like wire strippers and stones to aid in the process.

What Dog Breeds Can Be Hand Stripped?

Dogs with wiry coats usually need to be hand-stripped to meet the breed standard. This includes most of the Terrier group. Other breeds that require hand stripping include:

schnauzer

Cocker Spaniels

Irish wolfhounds

Wire Fox Terrier

Wirehaired pointers

wire-haired dachshund

border terrier

Quick tips for hand stripping

There are a number of methods to make hand stripping easier and more effective:

Pull in the direction of hair growth

Support the skin with gentle pressure

Pluck only the longer hairs, which are usually around 2-5 cm long

Try finger cots or Chalk Power to improve grip

Work with an even rhythm and only remove a few hairs at a time

Don’t be too clumsy when using a wire stripper – use it to help pull the hair instead of cutting the hair

Hand stripping is not painful when done properly, and many dogs actually enjoy it.

About hair growth in wiry coats

There are 4 stages to wire hair growth,

Anagen Phase: This is when the hair follicles enter the GROWTH PHASE.

Catagen Phase: This is the TRANSITIONAL PHASE when the hair stops growing and the outer root sheath adheres to the hair.

Telogen Phase: The RESTING PHASE when hair is still and not growing or falling out.

Exogenous Phase: The FALLOUT PHASE, when the hair falls out and a new hair grows

Once the hair is in the telogen phase, the dog is ready to be hand pulled as the root follicle detaches from the dermal papilla, allowing the hair to be pulled without causing damage or stress to the dog.

WHY IS HANDSTRIPPING THE BEST METHOD FOR WIRE HAIRED DOGS?

Hand stripping targets the older hairs that are in the exogenous growth phase. These older, dull hairs are easily pulled out, leaving room for new, stronger hair to grow through. This ensures the coat has a fuller, shinier texture and more vibrant color

It’s recommended to trim instead of clipping or scissors because these methods, instead of removing old hair, simply trim the old dull hair. Fresh new hair has no room to grow through. More importantly, by trimming your wiry dog’s coat, you can prevent the coat from growing properly and may not be able to be hand-grazed in the future.

WHAT IS REQUIRED TO GROOM A WIRED COAT AT HOME?

There are a number of supplies that are essential to keeping any wiry dog ​​breed at home in between hand stripping appointments. These include: –

WIRY BREED SHAMPOO

It’s important not to bathe a wiry coat too often as this can cause the hair to dry out. When bathing your dog, it’s important that you use a shampoo specifically formulated for wiry breeds due to the unique composition of their coat. If your dog is dirty, it pays to give him a bath and towel before grooming to make the job easier.

Wiry coat breeds also have different skin than many other breeds, which brings with it a variety of separate grooming considerations, all of which should be addressed with wiry breed shampoos. There are a number of brands out there, here at The Pet Retreat we use Wildwash shampoos all made from natural ingredients.

DETANGLE COMB

It’s common for wiry dog ​​coats to get tangled, especially in hard-to-reach places like the armpits. It’s always worth having a detangling comb handy for this. These special grooming tools help de-mat the coat. When using the comb, be gentle and focus on the ends of the hair first, working your way down and closer to the skin. Matted hair can hurt a dog when pulled, so take your time to cause as little stress as possible.

Slicker brush

Although a wiry dog ​​breed doesn’t need the same daily grooming routine as many long-haired breeds, it’s still important that you maintain a regular brushing routine. We recommend a smoother brush for this. These consist of thin wires angled away from the pet’s skin. They help degrease the coat and remove any debris or dead hair that may be resting on the skin. For wiry breed dogs, we recommend using a slicker brush with fine bristles.