Gold Bias Binding Tape? Quick Answer

Bevel binding and binding are some of my favorite finishing techniques for necklines, armholes and other hems. They are clean, pretty and fun. You can add a pop of color or print that no one sees, or blend seamlessly into the same fashion fabric. You can make them invisible by hand sewing the final seam or adding a touch of contrast stitching.

Bias binding and trimmings are used in two Blueprints patterns: Cabin & Saltbox.

This photo tutorial will walk you through the bevel blending and binding methods used in Blueprints patterns, giving you a clean bevel finish inside and out without the need to measure.

First off, what is the difference between bias binding, bias tape, and bias tape?

Bias binding is a strip of fabric (or several strips sewn together) that is cut at an angle. It has two edges that are rotated and pressed to meet in the middle. Bias tape is inherently stretchy and flows gracefully around curves, unlike fabrics that are cut to have the grain straight. This makes it perfect for finishing curved hems. There are two types of bias binding: single fold, which is most commonly used for bias binding, and double fold, which is mainly used for bias binding.

How to make bias binding: 3 easy ways to do it yourself

Let’s talk about how to make bias binding!

Bias binding is one of those useful little sewing essentials that has so many uses. It’s absolutely not just for quilters! While you can buy prejudices in those nice little neat packages, there are many advantages to making your own. So why make bias tape yourself?

The boxed binding is available in a limited range of solid colors. While this can be great, why not add some interest by making your own bias binding in a floral, stripe, animal print or polka dot pattern?

Boxed ties can be heavy and cardboard-like on lighter fabrics.

You can tailor your bias binding to a fashion fabric by making bias binding from that fabric.

You can make a lot of bias binding with very little fabric, so it’s a great way to use up leftovers.

So these are some of the reasons handmade bias binding is great. Let me show you 3 different ways to make it yourself and whether you need any fancy gadgets to make your own tape.

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What you need to make bias binding

The best fabrics for making bias binding

Before we start dicing and julienne fries out of our fabric, what kind of fabrics make the best bias binding?

Any type of lightweight fabric works well for bias binding. But when it’s a natural fiber, it’s even better because it can withstand all the pressure we have to put on it.

Light silks, cotton batiste, cotton voile, cotton quilts, shirts, cotton chambrays all make excellent biases. But you can be a little adventurous as long as the fabric is light.

You will learn over time that the best bias binding is often the fabric your garment is made of. This is how a pattern like an Ogden Cami made out of a smooth bias woven viscose challis becomes really beautiful.

It’s a bit more difficult to work with than a plain cotton fabric, but it gives the most natural finish to the fabric. Having reviewed and participated in many ready-to-wear garments, I have to say that it’s pretty rare to come across bias binding or contrast fabric trimmings.

The easiest way to make bias binding

This method of making your own bias binding is great when you just need a little bit. Maybe you just need enough tape to finish off a neckline that can be used as an armhole tie. Do this if you need less than a meter of pre-tension.

Lay your fabric out flat. Match the selvage to the 45 degree mark on your ruler.

Draw lines against the length of the ruler edge. Make them as wide as your pattern requires or whatever you like. I tend towards 1″ or 1 1/2″ widths.

Match the 45 degree angle line to the selvedge

Draw and cut lines

seam strips if necessary

Cut along the lines with your scissors.

Boom, that’s it. You just picked up some prejudices.

If you need a slightly longer length, place the strips right sides together and sew a small seam. Cut the seam and press open.

In a slightly smoother way to create your own bias…

Black extra wide double fold bias binding effortlessly binds straight or curved edges! With a beautiful solid color, this ribbon can be added to clothing and home accents and does not need to be ironed. Complete your quilts and more while adding a cool pop of color!

Details:

{Products for review and gift provided by Clover}

You go to your local sewing store and start browsing. They are immediately overwhelmed by the amount of small tools they have. You see helpers for such projects and tools for them and think to yourself: “Do I really need this?” Well I’m here to answer that question once and for all!

Bias binding makers have been around for a while, but the real question is, do we really need them? Do they make enough of a difference to spend extra money on them, especially when we could just throw those few bucks into this gorgeous stuff we swooned over? Or maybe you’d rather just buy your bias binding. Maybe the whole DIY process is just too tedious and you end up with a bunch of halfway usable bias and a whole bunch of burnt fingers!

I’ll admit I love the look of homemade bias binding, but I don’t always want to go through the process of making my own. I often look through my stash to see what premade pieces of tape I can use so I don’t have to make my own. I just don’t enjoy making all the bias binding myself. My fingers get burned, my tape never looks good and it’s always crooked or crooked. It’s just not worth it. Until now!! Listen, these little tools changed my whole perspective on the entire bias binding process! Not only am I a homemade bias converter, but I bet by the end of this post you will be too!

So let’s start at the beginning. Clover sent me two different sized bias tape makers to try, which meant I needed two different sized bias strips of fabric. I worked with the 3/4″ and the 1″ bias tape makers. You want your strips to be twice the width of the maker, i.e. if you are using the 3/4 inch maker, cut your strip 1.5 inches wide. If using the 1 inch maker, cut your strip 2 inches wide. Got it? Easy as pie, right???

I went for a classic gray and white stripe because I love the look of striped bias binding and you can’t buy that in a store! I got all my materials ready and started cutting! I used this tutorial to cut my bias strips because the way she does it is awesome and she makes it so simple and easy! I know, I know the tutorial is for an envelope pillow, but take my word for it. The video shows a great way to do your stripes and you won’t be pulling your hair out or swearing while doing it, I promise!

So my strips are cut and I have both sizes ready to join in with my little gimmicks. Using the Bias Tape Maker is very easy. Take the maker and lay your strip right side down. Insert the pointed end into the back of the maker. You will notice that there is a small open “U” shape at the back. That’s where your stuff goes. Keep pushing the fabric in until it comes out the other end. There is a small slot on the top of the bias binding maker where you can insert a needle, awl, etc. if you need to move the fabric along.

So now your fabric is in the bias binding machine and you’re good to go. You’ll find that the fabric is already starting to wrinkle! That’s the beauty of these little tools! It really does the work for you! Now grab the iron and steam up as you slowly pull the bias binding maker across your fabric! You will find that there is a small handle to hold on to. Definitely use! The maker itself is metal and can get hot from all that steam, so that handle comes in handy!

So now you have your bias binding ready! You can flip it back over and steam the heck out of it and voila! Double fold bias tape in a quarter of the time, no burned fingers, and it looks like a pro did it!

I went ahead and did the same for both strips! Remember that your strip needs to be twice the size of your maker! I was so impressed with how quick and easy these little devices were to use that I just couldn’t stop! I decided the gray and white stripe was so pretty, but I needed some color in my life! Bright yellow bias tape??? Yes, please!!!

I’ll be honest with you all. I was very hesitant to use these. I kept thinking that there was no way these would work and that they were a waste of my time and money. But I was so wrong! These bias tape makers are absolutely amazing! I have used many sewing tools in the 2 short years that I have been sewing but this one in the top 5 tools list! Probably the top 2!!!

These are easy to use and deliver amazing results! I’m pretty sure I need any size now! And while I knew I would use those two sizes the most, I’m pretty sure I can find a use for any size Clover makes! So, if you’ve been hesitant about these things and just didn’t want to spend the money, I’m telling you, SPEND THE MONEY! You are 100% worth it! A quality product that gives great results and is quick and easy!

Now that your bias binding is complete, all you have to do is use a pretty pattern! The Haven Dress pattern is the perfect summer pattern to try out your new bias binding! So gather up all those homemade biases you just made and get sewing!

So here’s the best part! Clover kindly sent not one, not two, but THREE sets of these bias tape makers! That means two lucky readers will win their very own bias binding maker! Make sure to sign up below for your chance to win! Also, be sure to visit Clover’s website and take a look at all the other cool sewing and crafting tools they have!

a Rafflecopter giveaway

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

Here’s a tip from Ed Roux, author of a series on heirloom sewing techniques for WeAllSew, for adding a special finish to any project using ribbon and the #88 Unfolded Bias Binding Attachment. Read on to learn how to tie edges with ribbons.

Have you considered using ribbon with the #88 binder attachment? There is an almost endless variety of ribbon colors and patterns to choose from, and Binder Attachment #88 makes it easy to add sewn ribbon bindings to your quilts, home decor, or garments. Using commercial ribbon is an alternative to using bias binding or hand-cut straight or bias-cut binding strips. More importantly, it is more convenient to use as it is pre-cut and unrolled from a spool. Ribbon also adds a striking contrast depending on the project.

Most flatwoven polyester or rayon, silk, grosgrain, taffeta, or linen ribbon threads beautifully into your #88 binder attachment to bind projects with straight or gently curved edges.

You may also consider using bias-cut silk habotai or china ribbon to:

Bind projects with curved edges.

Embellish the inseams of tailored or couture garments.

Tie organdy border.

Significantly reduce the time it takes to make weld lines in Hong Kong.

Quickly create skirt, blouse or sleeve plackets.

Three widths of ribbon work well with the three sizes of binder attachment #88 and binder foot #95/95C:

1″ wide tape with the 28mm binder.

1¼” wide ribbon with the 32mm binder.

1½” wide ribbon with the 38mm binder.

For the skirt placket of my “Christina” christening gown, I chose 1 1/2″ grosgrain ribbon with the 38 mm tie attachment No. 88.

Using the #88 Binder Attachment is a very quick way to add bindings to projects and provides professional looking results that are very difficult to achieve otherwise.

1. Thread the ribbon through the binder attachment to form a double fold under the binder foot.

2. Test the formation of the bond by beginning the stitching with a test piece of fabric (this will be cut after the bond is complete). Adjust as needed to ensure the band forms a nice double fold under the foot. If necessary, adjust the needle position so that the straight stitch is just inside the left edge of the pleats.

3. Guide the edge of the skirt vent into the fold of the band and sew the binding to finish the placket.

4. The raw edges of the placket are finished with a beautiful grosgrain binding.

5. Finish the placket by folding the binding over itself and sewing a 45° seam at the bottom. Cut off the ends and finish the garment.

Experiment with different types of ties and the binder attachment:

These pattern stitches from the BERNINA Exclusive Sepia Petals embroidery collection with gold and bronze metallic threads were finished with a 1½ inch wide gold metallic ribbon with wired edges using the 38mm tie attachment #88.

For finishing couture details, use a 1″ wide 100% silk bias cut Habotai ribbon on a 100% wool suit to tie Hong Kong seams with the 28mm No.

If you have two or more BERNINA sewing machines and are sewing a garment that requires a lot of these bound seams, you may want to use one of your precision machines for tying so that the #88 binder attachment is readily available at any point during your project .

We all know how fun it is to sew your own handmade garments, but it can be difficult to get a nice professional finish when you start. A common method you may come across to finish off necklines and armholes is to use bias stripes or bias binding – but what is that actually? why is it important and how do you actually use it and get a decent finish? In my latest Youtube video I explain the details and show you how to make your own.

Why is bias binding important? It not only ensures a clean finish on the neckline, armholes and hems of your garments, but also fulfills an important function. These curved areas of your garments can tend to stretch with washing and wear, but binding helps stabilize these areas and add more shape and structure to the garment.

What is bias tape? Bias binding is a strip of fabric that is cut at an angle. This means it is cut at a 45 degree angle to the selvage of the fabric (and thus at a 45 degree angle to the direction of the threads that originally woven the fabric). Cutting the fabric this way means it is pliable and pliable, allowing it to easily conform to the curves of your garments. You can buy it ready made or make your own and it comes in a variety of widths depending on the look and finish you want.

Finished Bias Typical finished bias binding is made out of poly-cotton and has some kind of starter coating to make it a little stiff. This will soften once it’s on your garment and has been washed (but you don’t need to pre-wash it). It can be delivered single folded or double folded. It’s basically the same thing, the double fold has already been folded in half an extra time. In the shop we sell poly-cotton binding tapes in two common widths for single-fold bias tapes – 18 mm and 25 mm (picture below left). This measurement refers to the distance between the folds, not the full width when open. We also now stock a range of Atelier Brunette double fold bias tapes in their beautiful viscose and double gauze fabric (pictured below right).

How to Make Your Own Bias Binding Making your own bias binding is a really nice touch, especially if you’re using a really lightweight fabric like cotton grass, rayon, or cotton double gauze. There are two different ways to cut the strips that you will then fold to make the binding – the single length method and the endless loop method. Here’s an excerpt from my book Learn to Sew with Lauren that explains both processes. The single length method is useful when you only need a small section or have some leftover fabric scraps rather than cutting into a larger section of fabric.

The endless loop method is useful when you have a lot of leftover fabric and need a small supply of binding for future projects.

Once you have the strips cut out, you can turn them into a single fold bias tape using a bias binding machine. We sell these bias tape makers in a variety of widths – I mostly use the 18mm for tailoring.

It’s time for a confession – I used to find making bias binding terrifying. I found it intimidating and difficult to master. However, once you break it down into steps, it’s actually pretty easy! Learning how to make bias binding frees you from the shackles of the stiff, store-bought stuff and opens the door to so many wonderful bias binding possibilities.

In this tutorial, we show how to make three different styles of 1/2″ wide bias binding: 1/2″ wide double fold tape, 1/2″ wide single fold tape, and our favorite, 1/2″ wide “thirds tape”.

You’ll need scissors or a rotary cutter, a quilting ruler, an iron, and optionally these little bias tape makers.

The very first step is to cut the strips that will eventually become your tape. Bias tape needs to be cut at a 45 degree angle (the bias) so your tape will have the flexibility and stretch to go well around curved edges. The easiest way to ensure you’re cutting at a 45 degree angle is to use a quilting ruler with a 45 degree line. Align the 45 degree line with the edge of your fabric and cut along the edge of the ruler to get a perfect 45 degree cut.

For 1/2″ wide bifold tape, cut strips that are 1 7/8″ wide. Locate the 1 7/8″ mark on your ruler and make sure it aligns top to bottom with the new diagonal edge of your fabric before cutting your strips.

For 1/2″ wide single fold strips, follow the same process, only use the 1″ mark on your ruler to cut 1″ strips.

For “third” tape, follow the same process, using the 1.25″ mark to cut 1.25″ strips.

Here’s a handy chart to help you know what size strip to cut:

We want our tape to be continuous so we sew all the strips together to create one long strip.

Cut the diagonal edges of the strips first.

Then, align the two strips perpendicularly to each other, right sides together, with the flat, short edge of one strip aligned with the long edge of the second strip, as shown below.

Place two of the strips at 90 degrees, right sides together and align the edges. Sew diagonally across the corners. Repeat to connect all strips. Trim the seams to 1/4″ and press open.

Now let’s make the tape! The 1/2″ wide double fold and single fold tape we make in this tutorial use bias binding makers – the “third” bias binding does not require this tool.

You can also make single and double fold tape without a bias tape maker by simply folding and hand pressing. Be extra careful not to get your fingers too close to your iron!

For the double fold bias binding, we use a 25mm bias binding machine. Insert the short edge of your fabric into the wide end of the bias binding maker. Cutting the end into a point can help you thread it through.

A handy way to anchor the end of your piece of tape is to pin it to your ironing board. This way you can press the band with both hands.

Gently pull the tape maker down the length of the tape strip, flattening the creases as you go. The tip of the iron is really useful here.

If you’re making duct tape without one of those doo-hickies, you can fold each edge of the strip toward the center. I like to fold one side and then the other as it can be difficult to do both at the same time.

After using the bias tape maker to make the first folds, fold the tape in half (with the raw edges included) and press. Voila! double folding band!

Single fold tape

The process of making the 1/2″ wide single fold strap is very similar. For the single fold tape, we used a 12mm bias tape maker.

As with the double fold tape, pin the end of your tape to the ironing board and run the bias binding maker down the strip of tape, pressing down the folds with your iron as you go.

If you’re doing this without tape, fold the edges toward the center. Be careful not to burn your fingers – this can be finicky with such a narrow strip of fabric.

Since this is single fold tape, once you have completed these steps your tape is ready.

“Thirds” tape

Well, the last type of tape we make is specifically for sloping fairings. It is a variant of simply folded tape. We really like this “thirds” option. It doesn’t take much time to make and makes a great slanted trim for a bodice or York apron.

To make “thirds” tape, we fold our strip in thirds. Take a third of your tape strip and fold it over the middle third.

Press with your iron.

Next, fold the remaining third of your strip over the first third and press.

That’s it! This ribbon is great for finishing off the neckline of a woven tank top or t-shirt, the edges of the York apron or apron, or any other pattern where you use bias trimming.

Now you have a cute 1/2 inch bias tape that works just as well as the kind you would buy at a store. You can use these techniques to make any size bias binding so you’ll always have a one-of-a-kind ribbon for your next project – AND it’s a great scrap breaker!

In our next post you will learn how to finish edges with a bevel trim. Let us know in the comments section if you have any questions or if you have any specific bias binding tips or tricks!

Happy sewing!

Bias binding has numerous uses, from button loops to contrasting decorative elements and more.

Bias binding, which consists of strips of fabric cut at an angle, is most commonly used to finish the edges of garments, particularly along necklines and armholes.

One reason is that the inherent flexibility of bias binding allows it to be sewn neatly around curves for a smooth, pucker-free look. However, there are more advantages.

I will describe the different strains and explain how to take full advantage of this inexpensive concept.

The basics

The type of bias binding you choose depends on the project. There are two main types of tape: single fold and double fold.

Single fold bias tape has two folds while double fold bias tape has three. Double fold bias tape is generally used to bind an edge and is visible from the outside of a garment, while single fold bias tape is used as a narrow trim that is turned to the wrong side of the garment.

Bias binding is typically between 1/4 inch and 1 inch wide when folded, and is available online and in stores in a variety of colors. Alternatively, you can make your own using diagonally cut strips of fabric and an iron as detailed below.

To speed up the process, consider using a bias binding maker, as shown in this video.

To make a single fold bias binding, multiply the desired binding width by four. Use this width gauge to cut an initial bias strip of fabric. It helps to do a small test sample first. Note: If you are working with a lightweight fabric with a lot of give along the bias thread, increase the width measurement slightly.

If the strip is too short for the edge you want to attach it to, cut and sew additional strips to achieve the desired length. Next, fold the strip with the wrong sides together and fold it in half lengthwise and press. Unfold the pressed strip and fold the outside edges in to meet the center fold line. Press again. You now have simply folded bias tape.

Double-Fold takes this process one step further. Simply fold the single fold tape in half along the initial fold line and press.

A term with many uses

1. Bindings

Finish raw edges by simply removing the garment’s seam allowance and sealing the edge with double-folded tape for a polished look. Edgestitch along the inside fold, making sure to catch the binding tape on the right and left sides with this stitch. We used contrasting tape to accentuate a garment edge.

Many commercial pattern shops and garment manufacturers use bias tape to eliminate the need for lining and facings. This is particularly common around necklines and armhole edges, as bindings are easier to sew and generally less expensive.

2. Seam finishes

Similar to bindings, Hong Kong seam finishes use bias tape to wrap raw seam allowances (see “When Hong Kong Finishes Wave”, Threads #155, June/July 2011). This finish works best with single-fold tape and is most commonly found on unlined garments such as jackets and skirts. Hong Kong finishes instantly increase the quality of a garment and are best suited to medium to heavy weight fabrics. You can certainly choose a color to match your fabric, but consider using a contrasting color for a more striking effect.

3. Button loops

Before I had a sewing machine that could make buttonholes, button loops were my number one choice. In just two easy steps you can make bias tape button loops from your own fabric. Starting with double-folded tape, sew along the open side and cut into strips depending on the size of the buttons. The other option is to hide the edge seams by folding a flat bias strip right sides together in the middle, sewing along the open edge, and turning the strip right side out. It’s your decision.

4. Drawstrings

Whether you’re making a new set of pajama bottoms or sewing some custom drawstring bags, bias binding is sure to make your life easier. There are two common ways to make drawstrings. The first option is to use double-folded tape and sew along the open edge. Make sure you tuck in the short ends before sewing over them to avoid raw edges. Alternatively, you can fold a flat bias strip in half, right sides together. Sew along both short ends and along most of the long open edge, making sure to leave an opening for turning the strip right side out. Finally, turn the strip over and sew up the opening.

5. Decorations

Bias binding is a great choice for decorating fabrics. Better yet, of all the apps, this is probably the easiest to use. To get the result shown on the pillow above, pin single or double fold panels onto a piece of fabric in a design of your choice. Then sew the band together on both sides before sewing the piece together. Straight lines are easy to sew, but slashes work well for curved designs, too.

Bias binding can also be used to decorate garments with bold accents. Bias lines can represent an edge, fall into the body of a garment, and follow a seam to make it stand out.

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bias tape.

What is it? What is it used for? What the heck does “prejudice” mean? And how can you make your own?

Let us talk about it!

Have you walked past the zippers and threads in your fabric shop and wondered what all those cute bundles of fixed trimmings are? They are bias bindings, piping and topstitch bindings.

If you need a solid color bias binding, the store-bought stuff comes in handy. But if you haven’t discovered it yet, it’s also very easy to make your own. And then the possibilities are endless… and so much cuter.

With a few tools and an iron, 1/2 yard of fabric turns into 9 yards of double-fold bias binding! It’s even cheaper than the pre-packaged stuff (which is usually 3 meters long).

You can watch a full video of this tutorial here or just click the play button below.

Or read on for the step-by-step photo guide.

And when you’re ready to sew it on, skip ahead to our next tutorial: How to sew bias binding. We will show you the simple, shortened method and the correct, never failing method.

But I’m anticipating. Let’s go back to that aisle in the fabric store….

Inside all these pretty packages are some interesting adornments:

*Bias binding is generally available in a solid color poly/cotton blend, is 3 yards in length and varies in width and usage.

* Quilt Binding is a fancy name for wide bias binding. It is sometimes made from polyester satin and is 1 to 2 inches wide.

*Piping (sometime called welt cord) is made by sewing rope-like cords into bias-cut strips (similar to how bias tape is made). It is used as trimmings on clothing and for home decoration projects.

In this tutorial, however, we’ll focus mostly on bias binding. And now that we know what it looks like… what is it?

Bias binding is a type of trimming and also a binding. It’s a long, continuous strip of fabric with neatly folded edges, making it ideal for finishing hems and blankets, and for adding a pop of color and contrast.

Bias tape comes in single folds or double folds.

* Simple fold is flat folded with single edges. It is often used as trimmings and sewn flat as is, e.g. B. parallel to a hem or with decorative stitching at the top.

* Double fold bias tape is a single fold bias tape that has been folded in half again to create a sandwich. Note that the fold is actually slightly off-center, so one side is a fraction wider than the other. This makes sewing easier and reduces the chance of you sewing on the top of the tie and somehow missing the back of the tie with your stitching. That may sound confusing. Try it and it will all make sense.

Double fold bias binding is the most commonly used type (and the type I sew with the most). It’s usually 1/2 inch and 1 inch wide – which is sometimes packaged as “quilt binding.”

Double fold bias tape has a variety of uses, primarily as binding over raw edges.

It can be used around armholes and edges (yellow vest),

as the waistband and around the leg holes (the perfect diaper cover).

Bias binding makes a wonderful quilt binding (Faux Chenille Blanket).

The leftover scraps come in handy for Scrappy Monster’s arms and legs.

It can tie handles (baby basket),

car seat covers and canopies,

It neatly finishes clean edges (semi-homemade coverage),

and makes a simple summer shirt for girls (sewing pattern for a summer vacation dress).

If you’re like me, you’ve used bias binding more times than you think! So let’s talk about how to create your own. And to do that, let’s first understand what bias means.

When looking at a rectangle of fabric, one edge is the raw edge (where it was cut by the big bolt in the fabric store). The other edge is the selvage (or selvedge in British English). This is the finished edge of fabric that will not fray and is often marked with the fabric designer’s name and ink circle codes.

Both edges create tissue grainlines. The selvedge is the longitudinal grain, the cut edge (if perpendicular to the selvedge) is the transverse grain.

The raw edge and the selvage typically form a 90 degree angle to each other. And the bias cuts a diagonal line down the middle, creating a bias grain! It forms a (2) 45 degree angle with the raw edge and the selvedge.

When creating bias binding, all strips of fabric are cut diagonally and not parallel to the grain of the fabric.

So what’s so great about bias?

Most woven fabrics (unless they have a little spandex mixed in) have no stretch. This is the beauty of woven textiles. However, if you try to pull and stretch a piece of woven fabric along the bias, the fabric will give a little. It’s not that it “stretches” but it does have a certain “ease”. Take a piece of fabric and try it out.

And why are bias strips used for bias binding?

Well, if you’ve tried loosening a woven fabric around a curve or creating a wrap around an armhole, you know it’s tricky. Binding tape made from bias-cut fabric is easier to circle and circle around than strips cut from the running line. Another reason: if you cut strips parallel to the grain or selvage, the binding tends to curl and doesn’t always lay flat (I’ve tried it). So, diagonally cut strips make the perfect binding or… bias binding.

OK, still with me?

The background information is now behind us.

Let’s make bias tape!

Gather your fabrics.

* Fabrics with small prints work best as a large print on a thin bias tape is not very noticeable.

*You can make 9 yards of 1/2 inch double fold bias binding from a 1/2 yard fabric.

However….

I find that it’s easiest to cut the bias binding from 1 yard of fabric (so you have more area to cut longer strips of fabric). But I’ll show you how to do it with 1 yard and 1/2 yard.

Substances to be used:

* 100% cotton

* cotton-poly blend (I find this the easiest to use)

* Satin (or polyester satin)

* Knit

* Flannel, corduroy and cotton variations

Next you will need a bias binding maker. Of course, everything goes the old-fashioned way and you can slowly iron over the edges of the fabric little by little. But for $3 to $15, you can buy nifty tools that simplify the process. And if you’re a true bias binding enthusiast, Simplicity sells an electronic bias binding maker! …but I’ll tell you about that next month.

I have two bias tape makers: 1 inch wide and 2 inch wide. The widest manufacturer available at most stores is 1 inch. Online I found the 2 inch wide manufacturer. It’s not as cheap as the others ($14) but I love having the wider option.

It’s important to remember that the width printed on the packaging is for single fold bias binding. So a 1 inch wide bias tape maker actually makes a 1/2 inch wide double fold bias tape. The 2 inch wide maker makes 1 inch wide double fold binding that makes a great quilt binding.

On the back of the manufacturer, the fabric is inlaid. Measure around this opening so you know exactly how wide your fabric strips need to be (2 inches for the 1 inch maker and 3.75 for the 2 inch maker).

And now we cut bias strips.

There are many ways to cut and sew bias binding. Other methods I’ve seen online involve sewing pieces of fabric together before cutting your strips…but no matter how many times I read the instructions, I can’t get over it. So, this method feels the easiest for me. But everyone learns differently. If my method seems strange to you, check out these other Whipstitch and Prudent Baby tutorials.

Bias tape from 1 meter of fabric:

Okay, as I mentioned above, the easiest way to get long bias strips is from 1/2 yard fabric cut from 1 yard (so you have more surface length for each strip). I’ll show you the 1 yard method first.

Fold the selvedge over the raw edge of the fabric to create a 45 degree or bias cut. Cut along this crease with scissors. And voila, you have a triangle! If you have a super-long cutting mat, now is the time to start cutting bias strips! But since most of us have a small cutting area, fold the triangle in half along the bias cut. This allows you to cut more fabric at once on a smaller cutting mat.

And finally, fold the triangle down again along the beveled edge. Again, the sole purpose is to make the fabric smaller and easier to cut. If you’re confused, go back to the original triangle and just start cutting strips along the slope.

Okay, I’m going to be making 1/2 inch wide double fold bias tape, so I need to cut 2 inch wide strips. Remember that you are cutting on the beveled edge of the cut.

Using a rotary cutter, quilting ruler, and cutting mat, continue to cut 2-inch wide strips until you reach the end of your fabric.

Now we sew all the strips together. Some people find this part tedious, but I think it comes together pretty quickly and seems the easiest to me compared to other methods.

Take two strips of fabric with the edges angled in the same direction and place the right sides of the fabric together.

Like this:

Now I know it’s your instinct to make them flush to each other, but I’ll show you why that doesn’t work in a moment. You need to overhang each strip a little and form a 90 degree angle to each other. Try to be specific, but don’t stress about it. Eyeball as best as you can (the strips will end up overhanging about 1/2 inch).

Here’s another look at it. A 90 degree angle:

Then sew the strips together using a 1/4 inch seam allowance. Usually the edge of your sewing foot has a 1/4 inch allowance, making it even easier! Just line it up with your sewing foot every time.

Now if you had the two strips aligned flush without the overhang, your strips would look like this:

But with the overhang, the stripes line up perfectly! Simply cut off the edges of the fabric and you’re done!

Now don’t worry if your strips don’t line up exactly every time. No big deal. The edge is the part that will be folded over anyway, so it doesn’t have to be flawless. Just keep pushing forward.

Once your strips are all sewn together, it’s time for the folding fun. Tuck the end of the long strip of fabric into your bias binding maker. The angled edge makes insertion easier. If you have trouble getting it out the other end, use a seam ripper or other small object to poke it into the maker and pull it along.

Then, with your iron set to the correct setting for your fabric type, iron the folded fabric that comes out of the machine.

As simple as that! The small handle on the device helps you pull with one hand while ironing with the other.

If you get to a place where two strips have been sewn together, just keep pulling and ironing and you shouldn’t have any problems. Continue this method until you reach the end of your strip. This will take a while so listen to some good music or put on a show in the background.

Okay, at this point you have created a single fold bias binding. If that’s what you wanted, you’re done!

But for double-folded tape, we need to iron it over again. Fold the ribbon in half so one side is slightly wider than the other…about 1/16 inch…very small.

Iron to the end of the strip and you’re done!

Meter by meter of beautiful bias tape!

It’s one of those simple tasks that makes you feel like you’re done (like getting all the laundry in the washing machine — and eventually folding them)

To make an 1 inch wide double fold bias binding, use a full yard of fabric and cut strips that are 3.75 inches wide:

Put it through the tape maker, iron it in half,

and you have a beautiful single fold or double fold bias tape.

Making bias binding from 1/2 yard of fabric:

The process is a bit more complicated (at least for me) but just read through it step by step.

Fold your fabric to get a 45º angle like we did above and trim the edge with your scissors.

To create longer strips of fabric, place the cut triangle next to your fabric at the top right. These two parts are sewn together.

Now fold the bottom half of the fabric to create another bias edge and trim it with your scissors.

Place this triangle at the bottom left of the other piece of fabric (the stripes on the fabric will help coordinate everything).

Sew the 3 pieces together in those two places, iron the seams, and you now have a long piece of fabric to cut your bias strips out of.

Fold the fabric exactly as we did in the original direction so you can cut multiple layers at once, starting from the bias cut edge. If there is excess fabric that is not wide enough to be a strip, just trim it off before you start cutting strips (as in the photo below):

And now you can… cut strips 2 inches wide:

Sew the strips together at the ends, thread them through the bias binding machine, iron, done!

To keep your bias binding neat and tidy, wrap it around a small piece of cardboard (2 layers of old cereal boxes, 4 layers of cardboard, or scraps from an old mailer box work great).

when you’re done

Tuck the end under and it stays in place.

And guess what… homemade bias binding would make the perfect gift for a sewing lover!

Tie scraps of old ribbon around each set and you have a special handmade gift. I would like to receive something like this. It’s so much more fun sewing a project with a supply of unique trims.

Congratulations! You made it to the end of the tape.

When you’re ready to sew on your border…skip to our next tutorial: How to Sew Bias Tape. We will show you the easy cheating method and the right method that never fails. Enjoy!

Extra wide double fold bias binding binds straight or curved edges with ease! Featuring a beautiful solid color accent, this ribbon can be added to clothing and home accents and does not require ironing. Complete your quilts and more while adding a cool pop of color!

Details:

Extra wide, double-folded bias binding sewn onto a decorative quilt as a border.

Single fold bias tape

double fold bias tape

Commercial bias tape foot fed with bias tape, creating bias tape.

Bias binding or bias binding is a narrow strip of fabric, typically plain weave, that is cut on the bias. Because the fabric is woven at a 45 degree angle, the resulting strip of fabric has more stretch than a strip cut along the grain. The strip also drapes better and conforms to curves better than fabric cut with the grain.

Bias binding is usually supplied with each raw vertical edge pressed under the strip, meaning both vertical edges are on the crease. Bias binding can also be folded and pressed in half lengthwise (“double fold” bias binding) for use in binding garments and pieces of fabric. Bias tape that is not pressed in half lengthwise is referred to as “single fold” bias tape.

Many lengths of bias-cut fabric can be assembled into a long “tape” typically sold in meter or roll lengths by haberdashery merchants. Bias tape varies in width from extremely narrow (0.64 cm (1⁄4 inch) wide when flat) to extremely wide (7.6 cm (3 inches) or more wide).

Bias tape is used for making piping, binding seams, trimming raw edges and also decoratively. It is often used on the edges of quilts, placemats and bibs, around armhole and neckline edges in place of a trim, and as a simple strap or tie for casual bags or clothing.

Devices are commercially available to assist the home seamstress in making folded bias tape. The strip of fabric is fed through the device which folds the fabric. The pleats are then pressed in place. The resulting folded ribbon is 1⁄4 the width of the original strip of fabric.

What is binding?

Binding refers to a narrow strip of fabric attached along the edge of a project. It hides raw edges so they don’t show or fray, then makes them look nice and finished. The binding can be used on the outside edges of a quilt, on necklines or armholes of garments, and more! Almost any fabric is suitable for binding. However, given the narrow weave, small prints like these Sevenberry fabrics with small flowers, polka dots and stripes work really well! Check out all the fabulous options below in our Ultimate Dainty Floral Pack of 30!

Binding Types

Remember our post on fabric grain? Ties can be cut straight (or lengthwise), cross-grain, or bias-grain—each offering a different level of stretch and flexibility. We will outline what is best used for quilts or apparel.

Straight Grain Weave: The strips are cut along the grain of the fabric, parallel to the selvedge. This type of binding has the lowest stretch. This is a great option for tying straight-edged quilts.

: Strips are cut along the grain of the fabric, parallel to the selvedge. This type of binding has the lowest stretch. This is a great option for tying straight-edged quilts. Cross grain weave: Strips are cut along the grain but across the fabric from selvedge to selvedge. This type of binding has low stretch. This is a great option for quilts with a lot of volume.

: Strips are cut along the grain but across the fabric from edge to edge. This type of binding has low stretch. This is a great option for quilts with a lot of volume. Bias Binding: The strips are cut at a 45 degree angle to the panel of fabric. This type of weave has the most stretch and works best on garments such as armhole seams and rounded edges.

What type of binding should I use?

The type of binding you use for a project depends on how much flexibility and durability you need.

Flexibility: If your final project has long straight lines (like a quilt), straight or cross grain weave will likely work well. But if your project has curves (think armholes, garment necklines and hems, or quilts with rounded corners), a flexible and stretchy bias binding can ease the curves and lie nice and flat.

Durability: Different types of bindings also offer different levels of thread coverage along the edge of your project. More thread coverage = increased durability. Here’s what we mean: Straight & Cross Grain Binding: These binding styles have the least thread coverage. The fold of the binding aligns with a single thread. And that one thread will take up all the wear and tear on the edge of your project. This is not usually a problem for quilts that see moderate use, but for quilts that see heavy use (like baby blankets), consider bias binding for added durability. Bias Binding: When binding strips are cut bias, there is more thread coverage along the fold and the same threads are not always on the outside. This offers an extra level of durability as multiple threads share wear and tear along the edge.

: Different binding styles also provide different thread coverage on the edge of your project. More thread coverage = increased durability. Here’s what we mean:

How do I make bias binding?

First calculate your fabric needs. The easiest way to do this is to download Robert Kaufman’s QuiltingCalc app and enter your quilt measurements, the binding width you want, and the fabric width (WOF) of the yardage you’ll be cutting it from. Choose Bias Tape and Boom. It will give you the total binding length and the amount of fabric you will need to make it.

The bias binding can be made in two ways – with individual strips or as an endless band.

Strip binding: Cut out individual strips of fabric diagonally and join them with a miter seam. Dead easy.

: Cut out individual strips of fabric diagonally and join them with a miter seam. Dead easy. Continuous Binding: This unique form of cutting is slightly more complex but faster than strip stitching and results in fewer seams.

How do I make a continuous bias binding?

Cut a square piece of fabric. Cut the square diagonally to get two symmetrical triangles. Rotate the triangles and flip one of them over so the right sides are together (see image above); Sew a ¼ inch seam across the top. Pinch the seam and trim all of the dog-ears. You now have a trapeze. Measure and mark the wrong side of the fabric with lines representing the width you want your final binding to be. Note: 2.5 inches is a common quilt binding width. Turn your trapeze over so the right side is facing up. Fold the top and bottom edges toward the center to meet. Note: you want them to be offset by one fringe measurement (see image above). Adjust the lines you drew and using binding clip pins press open the seam and cut along your line, starting at one end and continuously cutting around until you have one long strip. Press your binding in half lengthwise. Your bias tape is ready!

Tips for making bias binding

Think about how your final project will be used. Even if you have all straight edges, consider bias binding to increase durability if the item gets a LOT of use.

Take a good look at the fabric you want to use for your binding. Prints can take on a completely different appearance when cut straight with the grain than when cut diagonally. Below you can see how the same striped fabric gets a new look when cut straight, cross grain and bias.

Whatever method you use to make your bias binding, push your seams open to minimize bulk around the edges of your project.

Be careful not to pull and stretch your bias binding as you sew it on. Lay it flat when cornering and keep it as relaxed as possible. Use binding clips

Is Bias Tape and Bias Tape the Same?

Bias binding is bias binding that is only folded in a specific way. While the bias binding is simply folded in half for quilting, the additional folding of the bias binding results in a thinner binding that is great for a variety of sewing projects.

Of course you can make your own bias binding, but there are also many handy ready-made options on the market in different widths. Bias binding is most commonly sold as a single fold or double fold. Single fold bias binding is a long strip with both raw edges folded towards the center. The double fold bias tape takes it a step further and folds the single fold bias tape in half lengthwise.

Bias binding has numerous uses, from button loops to contrasting decorative elements and more.

Bias binding, which consists of strips of fabric cut at an angle, is most commonly used to finish the edges of garments, particularly along necklines and armholes.

One reason is that the inherent flexibility of bias binding allows it to be sewn neatly around curves for a smooth, pucker-free look. However, there are more advantages.

I will describe the different strains and explain how to take full advantage of this inexpensive concept.

The basics

The type of bias binding you choose depends on the project. There are two main types of tape: single fold and double fold.

Single fold bias tape has two folds while double fold bias tape has three. Double fold bias tape is generally used to bind an edge and is visible from the outside of a garment, while single fold bias tape is used as a narrow trim that is turned to the wrong side of the garment.

Bias binding is typically between 1/4 inch and 1 inch wide when folded, and is available online and in stores in a variety of colors. Alternatively, you can make your own using diagonally cut strips of fabric and an iron as detailed below.

To speed up the process, consider using a bias binding maker, as shown in this video.

To make a single fold bias binding, multiply the desired binding width by four. Use this width gauge to cut an initial bias strip of fabric. It helps to do a small test sample first. Note: If you are working with a lightweight fabric with a lot of give along the bias thread, increase the width measurement slightly.

If the strip is too short for the edge you want to attach it to, cut and sew additional strips to achieve the desired length. Next, fold the strip with the wrong sides together and fold it in half lengthwise and press. Unfold the pressed strip and fold the outside edges in to meet the center fold line. Press again. You now have simply folded bias tape.

Double-Fold takes this process one step further. Simply fold the single fold tape in half along the initial fold line and press.

A term with many uses

1. Bindings

Finish raw edges by simply removing the garment’s seam allowance and sealing the edge with double-folded tape for a polished look. Edgestitch along the inside fold, making sure to catch the binding tape on the right and left sides with this stitch. We used contrasting tape to accentuate a garment edge.

Many commercial pattern shops and garment manufacturers use bias tape to eliminate the need for lining and facings. This is particularly common around necklines and armhole edges, as bindings are easier to sew and generally less expensive.

2. Seam finishes

Similar to bindings, Hong Kong seam finishes use bias tape to wrap raw seam allowances (see “When Hong Kong Finishes Wave”, Threads #155, June/July 2011). This finish works best with single-fold tape and is most commonly found on unlined garments such as jackets and skirts. Hong Kong finishes instantly increase the quality of a garment and are best suited to medium to heavy weight fabrics. You can certainly choose a color to match your fabric, but consider using a contrasting color for a more striking effect.

3. Button loops

Before I had a sewing machine that could make buttonholes, button loops were my number one choice. In just two easy steps you can make bias tape button loops from your own fabric. Starting with double-folded tape, sew along the open side and cut into strips depending on the size of the buttons. The other option is to hide the edge seams by folding a flat bias strip right sides together in the middle, sewing along the open edge, and turning the strip right side out. It’s your decision.

4. Drawstrings

Whether you’re making a new set of pajama bottoms or sewing some custom drawstring bags, bias binding is sure to make your life easier. There are two common ways to make drawstrings. The first option is to use double-folded tape and sew along the open edge. Make sure you tuck in the short ends before sewing over them to avoid raw edges. Alternatively, you can fold a flat bias strip in half, right sides together. Sew along both short ends and along most of the long open edge, making sure to leave an opening for turning the strip right side out. Finally, turn the strip over and sew up the opening.

5. Decorations

Bias binding is a great choice for decorating fabrics. Better yet, of all the apps, this is probably the easiest to use. To get the result shown on the pillow above, pin single or double fold panels onto a piece of fabric in a design of your choice. Then sew the band together on both sides before sewing the piece together. Straight lines are easy to sew, but slashes work well for curved designs, too.

Bias binding can also be used to decorate garments with bold accents. Bias lines can represent an edge, fall into the body of a garment, and follow a seam to make it stand out.

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