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HOW TO TREAT \”ICH\” OR \”WHITE SPOTS\” OF MY BLACK MOOR FISH
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Sick Black Moor, with ich and maybe something else
The best treatment for goldfish with ich is aquarium salt (.3% salinity)- fancy goldfish do not fair well with heat and the heat is making the …
Source: www.aquariumadvice.com
Date Published: 9/16/2022
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Ich on Black Moor? – Freshwater Aquarium Fish Forum
HI Fishlore, Yesterday, I moved my black moor over into his new tank from his small 10gallon. Today, I realized that he has a small bump on …
Source: www.fishlore.com
Date Published: 8/17/2021
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Black Moor sick during Ich treatment-help please!!
Hey Fish Fans, Thanks everyone for reading. Our poor Black Moor seems really sick! We moved him from the 2.5 gal tank where he’s been the …
Source: www.tropicalfishkeeping.com
Date Published: 2/24/2021
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Goldfish Ich Disease (White Spot) Treatment
Ich (Ichthyophthirius multifiliis) or white spot disease is one of the easier Goldfish diseases to diagnose. … Black Moor displaying the ic symptoms of Ich …
Source: www.about-goldfish.com
Date Published: 1/14/2022
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Could my black moor have had ick for a long time?
I have a black moor alone in a 55 gal. I have had him since he was small (about a year or so) and he has always kinda had white patches here …
Source: www.aquariacentral.com
Date Published: 12/18/2021
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Ich on Black Moor?
Most likely looks like I’m fine. A little uncertain as photos are always difficult to judge…
If the fish is alone it would be good to treat the whole tank if it is indeed me – if this cyst ruptures it will spread parasites all over the water column and then they will spend some time in the substrate before swimming free again and invasion of another host.
The meds for Ich are only good for the free-swimming form, so either wait for the cyst to burst or increase the temperature of the tank to speed up the process.
You can go the easy way, but nothing is guaranteed here (the above process is the standard and definitely the safest) – If you are experienced enough, clean your hands thoroughly, take the fish out into a bowl and stick those cyst carefully into this bowl. Then, discard the water, gently rub the affected area of the fish’s skin, and place it back in the tank. This has worked for me a few times in the very early stages of ego and avoided putting meds in the tank. However, this is from my experience and there is little scientific evidence behind it, aha.
Much luck!
Goldfish Ich Disease (White Spot) Treatment
Treatment of Ich disease (White Spot) for goldfish
Ich (Ichthyophthirius multifiliis) or vitiligo is one of the more easily diagnosed goldfish diseases.
Schwarzmoor with Ich or white spot disease
Ich disease, or as it is sometimes incorrectly referred to as Ick disease, is caused by a unicellular parasite. It is one of the most common parasites of aquarium fish. The parasite penetrates the goldfish’s skin surface and feeds on its tissues and blood.
Irritation of the embedded parasite causes the epidermal cells (skin cells) to proliferate and form the characteristic small, pinhead-sized white spots that appear on the fins and body. They are easier to see on dark colored fish but are obvious when they start to appear on the fins of lighter colored fish.
Affected fish become isolated, have stuck fins, and become lethargic. Most fish develop white spots on the body and fins. Some fish show breathing difficulties.
The disease is usually thought of as a tropical fish disease, but it is also found in the cooler waters where goldfish live.
I causes of illness
Outbreaks of the disease are often caused by a sudden drop in water temperature, which weakens the fish’s immune system.
A more common cause is introduction into the aquarium by a newcomer who has not been quarantined.
life cycle
Ich disease has five stages in its life cycle:
Open-air swimming stage, young parasite is looking for a host fish
Parasite burrows into the fish’s skin, which shows up as a white spot
The adult parasite leaves the host fish and forms a cyst
The parasite multiplies by dividing inside the cyst
The cyst ruptures to release thousands of juvenile parasites into the water.
The speed of this cycle depends on the water temperature. At 75-79 degrees Fahrenheit (24-26 degrees Celsius), the entire life cycle is completed in about four days.
If the disease progresses too far, the white patches begin to cover the surfaces of the head and gills, causing breathing difficulties that eventually lead to death.
A danger of this disease is that it does not always have the characteristic white spots. It can completely crust a fish’s gills, but the fish may not show a single white spot anywhere on its body or fins. The only clue to the disease is an increased respiratory rate.
treatment options
The infected fish cannot be treated against Ich because the parasite is embedded under the skin. However, the parasite can be killed once the cyst ruptures and releases the hatchlings into the water.
The first treatment step is to gradually increase the water temperature to above 80°F (27°C) using an aquarium heater. This does two things:
The temperature is too hot for me-teens to survive
It speeds up the life cycle of the parasite, so it quickly leaves the goldfish. Prolonged infection weakens the fish.
There are several treatments that can be used. The goldfish should already be in a mild salt bath:
Non-iodized salt. The required strength is a 0.3% solution. The salt is added at a rate of 1 teaspoon per gallon every twelve hours for three uses. Leave the fish in the solution for 14 days, then begin salt reduction with each water change.
quinine sulfate. Dissolve ½ teaspoon per gallon.
malachite green . Most pet stores sell this chemical in convenient squeeze bottles for treating white spots. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
. Most pet stores sell this chemical in convenient squeeze bottles for treating white spots. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions. methylene blue . Three drops of 5% methylene blue in solution per gallon.
My preferred treatment method is a combination of a mild salt bath with the addition of methylene blue or malachite green.
I gradually increase the salt level from one to two teaspoons per gallon. I then add the methylene blue or malachite green.
After a few days, when all the cysts are gone, change 50% of the water without adding any chemicals. Make sure the water temperatures are the same.
Turn off the aquarium heater and do daily water changes until all traces of salt and chemicals are gone.
As long as the fish is active and eating well, it can be returned to its (sterilized) aquarium once the water temperature in the infirmary is back to normal.
Top of the Ich disease treatment page
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Could my black moor have had ick for a long time?
I have two black bogs in a 55 gallon. It’s really difficult to keep the tank clean. I have to change 25% of the water weekly. If you give them the necessary fresh veggies and plants to nibble on, these will also make a big mess, but if you omit these things from the diet, they are bound to have buoyancy issues. It’s a pain because the filters are constantly clogged with plant and vegetable matter, I have to clean them every two weeks. That’s more than double the maintenance of my other aquariums that have far more fish in them. Have you tested your water? I’d be interested in the readings – I use these 5-in-1 Walmart Jungle Test Strips ($11 for 25) and they do a good job. If you don’t have your own kit, you really should! Don’t rely on the pet stores to test for you…they generally won’t tell you anything useful, and in my experience they at least use the free trials to foist products on you, how about your maintenance plan? I wouldn’t pick any other fish until you figure out why your black bog doesn’t always look right…should be the last thing on your mind! A picture would help identify the problem. Salt and heat together are an effective ego treatment: I may come and go on him if it looks like patches. But “stains” sound more like fungus – I would check the water chemistry to make sure you have enough alkalinity and a stable pH. Especially if you are using CO2 since your tank is planted. And as Somervell said, black moors often turn coppery and change color as they age… Black is the most difficult color to keep and these are long-lived fish so they can have different stages of coloration as they grow.
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