Mineral Spirits Water Based Polyurethane? Best 173 Answer

Both offer good protection; the biggest difference is in appearance.

Water-based polyurethanes offer a clear, neutral finish and are low in odor. You can recoat them in two hours and clean your tools with water. If you start early enough in the day, you can apply the recommended four coats and sleep in the room that night.

Oil-based polyurethanes leave an amber sheen and require fewer coats. But waiting five hours between coats and waiting 12 hours after the last coat of paint will put a bedroom out of action for a few days — and you’ll have to put up with a strong odor.

What’s not to love about wipe polyester? It’s easy to use; it dries quickly and is just as hard as regular polyurethane, so what’s the problem?

Well, the first is the price. And the second thing is, well, actually it’s just the price. You pay so much for such a small amount.

Luckily if there’s one thing DIYers love to do things themselves, including learning how to make wipes on polyurethane yourself. This simple hack will save you a lot of time, money and unnecessary trips to the store.

But first, let’s go through the basics.

What is wipe polyester?

This is a specific type of polyurethane that does exactly what the name suggests. It’s a pre-thinned version of the same polyurethane we know and love, but in a fancy container.

Unlike other variants of this product, this one should only be applied by wiping with a lint-free cloth. Smudge-proof polyurethane or smudge-poly is too thin to be applied effectively with a brush or roller. It’s also worth noting that this type of polyurethane is designed to impart a hand-rubbed look that cannot be achieved by brushing, rolling, or spraying.

Although this may sound restrictive, the wipe finish was developed for specific applications. It is useful, for example, when:

Applying polyurethane to vertical structures

Working with tight curves or edges that brushes cannot reach

you are in a hurry

To fix minor mistakes

Polyurethane wiping can be used on any woodworking project, although it would be frustrating and slow on large projects.

How to make DIY smudge polyester

Behind the mystique of Minwax wipe polyester is a simple formula anyone can master. By learning how to make polyurethane wipes, you can customize each batch to suit the project you are working on.

needed tools

Oil based polyurethane

Mineral spirits or paint thinner

mason jar or plastic bottle

measuring cup

funnel

We use oil-based polyurethane for this because it is the original wiping poly. Also, water-based wipe polyester can be difficult to work with due to the ridiculously fast drying time.

How to make swipe poly in 3 steps

Here are the quick steps to properly wiping down polyurethane.

1. Stir the oil-based polyurethane

Before you begin, you’ll need to stir the oil-based polyurethane in the can. Satin Gloss in particular contains matting agents that need to be mixed properly to give it an even consistency. If you don’t stir it properly, some parts of the wood will turn out shinier than others.

Also, you shouldn’t shake it as that would create bubbles which can be a nightmare to remove.

2. Pour the poly into a bottle

Once you’ve properly stirred your polyurethane, pour it into a water bottle, mason jar, or other suitable container that can be tightly sealed.

This means you don’t have to make a new batch every time you need to use smudge poly.

3. Pour some of the mineral spirits into the bottle

Next you need to apply an equal amount of mineral spirits to the polyurethane. You can use a measuring cup or get an approximate mix just by looking at it with your eyes.

This 50-50 mixture is the most common ratio for wiping down polyurethane, but you can use more or less mineral spirits depending on the project.

Test the poly on a piece of wood. Make sure it’s thin enough to apply with a cloth, but not too thick that it runs. Add more of either product until you reach the required consistency and you’re done.

What are the different types of wipe poly?

Until a few years ago, the only type of wipe-off varnish was oil-based. Now there is also a water-based alternative.

Oil Based Wipe Polyurethane Finish is oil based polyurethane that has been thinned with mineral spirits or paint thinner. It has all the properties of oil-based poly:

water resistance –

Scratch and abrasion resistant

It dries hard and is very durable

It has an amber hue that darkens over time

It emits high levels of VOCs

It’s a clear coat; Etc

Suggested reading: Does polyurethane make wood waterproof?

Similarly, water-based wipe varnish is diluted with water and has properties similar to oil-based. The main differences are that it:

Dries clear and stays clear

It emits fewer VOCs

It has a tolerable smell

In terms of durability, hardness and protection, both types of wipe polyester perform the same.

Why should I make my own wipe on poly?

While it’s definitely easier and quicker to buy than make, there are a few key benefits.

You save money

They say it can’t buy happiness, but I’m glad I don’t get scammed out of my hard-earned money. Not true? As you will soon see, the process of making your own wipe clean polyurethane is so cheap and straightforward that there is no point paying for it.

After all, you have regular polyurethane in your shed anyway, so there’s no point in buying a separate can. Sure, it comes in a snazzy Minwax container, but that’s the only bonus.

You can mix it to your desired consistency

Every project is different. This can be due to the type of wood, the size, the location or the way the product is placed. Therefore, you may need to mix each batch differently.

For items that see more traffic, you can make the consistency a bit thicker or thinner for decorative pieces. On the other hand, store-bought options only come in a mix. Further dilution could dilute the product too much, plus buying a pre-mixed finish misses the point.

It’s a handy skill

As do-it-yourselfers, we know that no two jobs are the same. Even after all your careful planning, you never know when you might be in dire need of wipe poly.

As you’ll find, wiping down poly can be a lifesaver, even on large jobs like floors. It can allow for a quick touch up instead of having to use a roller or brush every time you notice a small imperfection.

This allows you to quickly put together a batch in minutes if needed, instead of trying to order a new product from Amazon.

The downside to learning how to make wiper polyester is that you spend a few minutes reading an article. But seriously, there are no downsides to learning how to make wipes on polyurethane.

Why should you use oil-based polyurethane instead of water-based polyurethane?

Water-based polyurethane is much thinner than oil-based polyurethane, so it takes less effort to apply and dries much faster. Interestingly, some pros don’t like water-based poly because it dries too quickly.

So using a wipe version becomes obsolete. However, if you need to make wiping polyurethane with water-based polyurethane, perhaps due to respiratory issues, you can dilute it with water.

What are the advantages of using wiping polyester?

No streaks, runs or drops

Undoubtedly, polyurethane is best applied to a small object with a brush. However, regular polyurethane is notorious for leaving brush marks, blisters, and the occasional drip.

These annoyances do not exist at Wischpoly. Lint-free cloths leave no noticeable traces. In addition, given the thin layer, drops will not form and all bubbles will quickly disappear.

It’s easy to use

Applying polyurethane isn’t particularly difficult, but it can take some skill to do it without leaving streaks, roller lint, or puddles. But you don’t have to worry about that when wiping polyurethane.

Expert or not, you can achieve a smooth finish almost 100 percent of the time.

It dries faster

Any handyman knows that if you don’t want a sticky polyurethane, you have to apply thin coats. However, there is a limit to how thin a layer you can achieve with a brush or roller.

Wiping polyester is applied almost as thinly as water, so it dries very quickly. Expect it to be hard and ready for a recoat in 2 to 3 hours compared to 12 to 24 hours for oil based polyurethane.

Even quick-drying oil-based poly takes 4 to 6 hours to dry.

It can come in anywhere

When working with really tight corners or crevices, applying polyurethane with a brush can be difficult or impossible. Luckily, wiping poly has no boundaries.

As long as your finger can get into this space, you can apply swipe poly. You can also place the cloth on a smaller object to reach even tighter spots.

It’s not as prone to dust spikes

Another common problem when applying polyurethane is dust spikes. Because polyurethane takes a long time to dry, there’s more than enough time for dust to end up in your finish. The only way to remove dust particles is to sand the surface.

Because Wipe Poly is a thinner layer than the regular version and dries quickly, this is rarely a problem and you don’t need to fix the polyurethane finish during application. Also, since you can’t sand wiping poly too deep without ruining the previous layer, it’s a good thing dust spikes aren’t a common problem.

What are the disadvantages of using wipe poly?

– It is not as thick or durable as regular polyurethane

There are very few finishes that can match the durability of oil based polyurethane. That’s one of the reasons why it’s very popular. While polyurethane wipe down carries the family name admirably, it’s not as thick or as durable as regular polyurethane varnish.

That’s understandable as the wipeable finish is intended more for cosmetic applications. If you just want to add a little bit of waterproofing to decorative cabinets, this type of poly is fine. But on surfaces that get heavy use, you need something tougher.

If you want to build durability, you need to apply many coats, which then defeats the goal of using wipe-on polyester.

– You can only use it for small projects

Poly wiping is not intended for dining tables, floors, or any project that sees a lot of traffic, and this is by design.

Of course, no one should get upset about this, because that is not the intended purpose. Not that it doesn’t protect the finish, it just takes a remarkably long time to apply, especially with the many layers.

– The rags used can pose a fire hazard

Polyurethane is highly flammable and can be unstable. If you don’t properly dispose of the rags you use to apply the poly; they can self-ignite. This usually happens when the rags oxidize and release heat.

To avoid unexpected fires, put the used clothes in a metal can and fill it with water. Cover the metal can tightly and contact your local garbage disposal company for instructions on how to get rid of it.

frequently asked Questions

What is the benefit of using wipe clean poly versus regular polyurethane?

Wipe-on Poly is easier to apply than traditional or brush-on polyurethane. It can also be used in cracks, crevices and other hard-to-reach places. Wiping poly also doesn’t leave brush marks, so you don’t have to sand as aggressively between coats.

Can I use wiping polyester for floors?

Technically you can, but no, you shouldn’t use wipe poly on floors. While it can be used to touch up floors with minor imperfections, it is not durable enough to treat floors on its own.

Better to use water based poly for floors as it can be applied with a roller and dries just as quickly.

Is water-based wipe polyester good?

Yes, water-based wipe polyester is good. However, it is not a necessary product. Water-based polyurethane dries quickly anyway and is wipeable due to its thinness. So a wipe version doesn’t really bring more benefits.

While convenient, water-based smudge polyurethane isn’t as groundbreaking as the oil-based alternative.

Need to sand between coats of wipe clean polyurethane?

Yes, you will have to sand between the polyurethane layers, but it has to be very gentle. Aggressive grinding completely removes the thin layers.

You can use 400 grit sandpaper to gently sand down the top coat. If you have heavily thinned the mopping polyester it may be better to use 0000 steel wool to lightly scrape the surface.

How many layers of wiping polyester do I need?

You need to apply at least 3 coats of wipe down polyurethane to get a permanent coat. Depending on the project, you may need several layers, between 5 and 7. Of course, this also depends on the required mixing ratio.

The thinner it is, the more layers you’ll need.

To wipe or not to wipe

Congratulations, you have learned how to make wipes on polyurethane! Now that you know how to make wiper polyester, you don’t need to buy the expensive branded ones anymore.

Remember to take all safety precautions when applying wipe polyester, especially when removing it

them, since the rags are highly combustible.

Now you might be wondering if wiping polyurethane is worth the effort since you have to apply more layers. Say no more and look no further than our Wipe on Poly Vs. Brush on Poly comparison for all the answers.

Whether you are new to woodworking or have some experience, you may be wondering when is the best time to apply mineral spirits to clean the wood. Should you do this before or after sanding?

Applying mineral spirits after sanding will clean the wood and aid in staining for a more refined finish. You could use mineral spirits before sanding, but that would waste some of the product and you may need to apply another coat after sanding.

In this article we look at the benefits of applying spirit to wood after sanding and how to do it properly.

The purpose of mineral spirits after grinding

Mineral spirits have more uses than most people realize. It’s a great idea to save a few cans of this solvent and keep them handy for various DIY projects.

Sometimes the use of spirit on a wood surface, metal surface or other material is simple and understandable. At other times the need for this solvent is not so clear.

Applying mineral spirits to wood isn’t necessary, but it has some benefits that you shouldn’t miss out on. Consider the following:

· Removes residues

Sanding leaves a lot of residue on wood. Wiping away this residue with a brush or rag is just a start. The subsequent application of spirit cleans the wood properly and makes it ready for the next step.

· Helps you identify errors

Applying denatured alcohol to wood after sanding can help you spot flaws you didn’t see before. For example, you might not have managed to get rid of a bit of glue.

Once you’ve applied mineral spirits to that particular spot, you’ll notice the glue and be able to remove it after the layer of alcohol has absorbed and evaporated.

Prepare for coloring

Wood staining is very important if you want it to last, and spirits will help you achieve that.

Another good reason to keep your wood surface clean after sanding with mineral spirits is that it prepares it for stains, which makes the wood stand out and protects it from water and rot.

This is especially helpful if your wood project will remain outdoors. Even if you’re making furniture or something else that’s meant to stay indoors, using spirits will help you get better results.

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Applying mineral spirits after sanding

DIY wood projects work better when spirits are thrown into the mix.

Anyone who has sanded even a tiny piece of wood knows that even light sanding creates a surprising amount of dust. You need to pickle your wood in as dust-free an environment as possible. When you’ve sanded a piece of wood, dust it off to coat it with spirit.

Here’s how you should go about all of this:

1. Sand the wood to remove marks, dents and bumps. Sanding makes the piece of wood smooth and ready for spirits. Make sure you have the results you want before proceeding. Otherwise keep grinding. Use the right grit of sandpaper to open the wood pores for alcohol and stains.

2. Use a dusting brush or duster to remove as much sand and dust from the wood as possible. Sand dust particles can affect the overall quality if you want a smooth finish on your wood surface.

If your grinder doesn’t have a vacuum, you might want to use your household vacuum to get as much dust out of the way as possible.

3. Finally, apply a coat of mineral spirits and leave the project alone to allow the solvent to evaporate. Mineral spirits generally dissolve in 15 to 20 minutes.

If you plan to do so, take a good look at the wood to make sure there is no solvent residue before you stain it. If you do this before sanding, you can apply more alcohol than you need to.

Not only will this reduce your supply of this solvent, but it will also make your DIY wood project a bit more expensive.

Can I use odorless white spirit after sanding?

Like any conventional paint thinner, mineral spirits produce an unpleasant kerosene-like odor due to the VOCs (volatile organic compounds) it contains. Unscented spirits reduce odor to the point where it is imperceptible or non-existent by limiting VOC levels.

Yes, you can use odorless white spirit after sanding wood. The only difference between regular mineral spirits and those labeled “odorless” is the lack of odor. The functionality of both types of spirits is the same after grinding.

The result of your woodworking project will be just as great whether you use regular or unscented white spirit after sanding.

A quick note on safety: Whether your spirits have an odor or not, the fumes they give off can be dangerous with prolonged exposure. Always work in a well-ventilated area and consider using a respirator and other protective equipment for maximum safety.

How long after applying mineral spirits can I sand?

You can use mineral spirits immediately after sanding. Of course, at least a few minutes will pass while you are removing dust in order to apply spirits as efficiently as possible. But there is no need to wait for the wood to change in any way after sanding.

Mineral spirits require some time to be absorbed by the wood and to evaporate after application. About 20 minutes after applying spirit to wood, it is ready for staining or painting.

Look closely at the piece of wood to ensure there is no residue before proceeding.

Conclusion – white spirit after grinding

Wiping down your wood with mineral spirits is best done after sanding. This simple step is effective in cleaning the wood in preparation for staining.

Although you can get good results without applying solvent after sanding, using denatured alcohol will give you an even better result. Just make sure to remove any extra wood dust with a clean cloth.

When brushed onto wood, metal or other surfaces, or onto a coat of paint, polyurethane forms a seal and provides a high level of surface protection. Polyurethane will usually leave brush marks from a brush when first applied, but if it is of the right consistency and the correct procedures are used, the burrs will come off on their own and the polyurethane will settle to a smooth finish. If the brush marks don’t go away on their own, try some correction techniques.

When I apply a polyurethane top coat to a project, I always get brush streaks, even when I use a foam brush and when I thin the material. It helps if I shred the wet finish, but I’m just wiping off material I’ve just applied. The only solution I found is to wet sand after drying. What am I doing wrong? – Jim Seroskie

Richard Oedel answers: You are not doing anything wrong. All you have to do is go to your local store and buy a can of “Patience” – just kidding. When you wipe the finish you are not actually wiping the finish but leaving a very thin film. So you have to build up many coats of finish before you see the results. I apply diluted urethanes. But instead of one, two or three layers, I usually need 8, 9 or 10 layers to achieve the same build. When you dilute oil-based fast-drying urethane with naphtha, it dries fast enough that you can apply two coats in one day. Don’t push it. Be patient. Five days to a really nice finish is worth the effort.

Bruce Wedlock answers: Brush streaks come from the finish not smoothing out after application. Viscous paints, such as typical oil paints, do not flow easily, which can result in brush marks. One solution is to thin the finish so it flows evenly before it sticks. Finishes like Minwax Wipe-On Poly are just diluted varnish that flows easily. Another excellent wipe clean poly is General Finishes Arm-R-Seal.

Applying with a pad made from an old, lint-free t-shirt works well. You need to apply a coat that has a wet finish but not so much that it runs. This takes a little practice to get it right. But you don’t want to wipe the layer off. The pad only replaces the brush as an applicator. The first coat seals the wood and needs to be lightly sanded with 150 grit. The second coat may need a light sanding at 180 before the third coat. You need at least three coats, but it dries quickly.

I’ve also applied smudgeable poly with a quality brush with good success. You must move along the wet edge – if possible, do not brush again. I try to finish my work before final assembly whenever possible to finish horizontal surfaces.

Personally, I now prefer water-based poly like General Finishes Enduro-Var applied with the water-based Gramercy brush. It dries quickly so you can apply three coats in one day. Water-based paints must be applied with synthetic bristles. Natural bristles absorb the water and swell. And don’t pull the brush by the edge of the can. It dries so quickly that flakes quickly fall into the liquid. Simply dip the brush and let it drain. You can also upholster it.

Finally, for a fine finish, you’ll need to wet sand with 600 grit and water with a drop of dish soap. Wait at least a week for the finish to set. If you get a gummy sandpaper, you haven’t allowed the finish to cure long enough. Cured wet-sanded surfaces leave white powder residue and will not clog sandpaper.

I only use gloss varnishes. The final gloss of the finish depends on the final grit used in wet sanding. A 600 grit gives a nice satin look. Micro-mesh abrasive pads from 1500 to 12000 grit will get you to a wet look finish. You don’t need multiple different types of finishes for satin or satin finishes.

Bob Oswald replies: In fact, I get my best finishes from your observed “wiping off material I’ve just put on” mistake. We call it the wiping technique, which actually wipes most, but not all, of the material just applied. Use this technique to avoid wasting the wiped varnish.

Wipe down a very heavy first coat onto the bare wood. Leave it on for a few minutes and see if there are any dry patches where it has soaked in. Apply more polish to these areas. I generally sweep the entire area. It’s fun to see glittering and it won’t hurt. When it stops soaking in, but no longer than about 15 minutes, wipe off as much as you can. You will waste something here, but make up for it in future steps. Wiped well, you will find almost no sticking dust. We use this technique in the high school lumber shops where we don’t have a clean room. Usually start applying the next five coats 6-12 hours later. Note: It is not usually necessary to “grind” this step. Wipe a thin layer over the entire project. Let it get slightly sticky, usually no more than 10 minutes. wipe it away They only apply a very thin layer so you don’t wipe a lot. Feel the surface 8-12 hours later. You should only find an occasional dust bump. Sand lightly with 320 grit sandpaper. They’re not trying to remove paint, just tapping off the dust bumps. I find that light pressure with a mold pad sander, two to three passes, is sufficient. Feel a before and after section and you should be amazed. Repeat step 3 three to four more times. Up to 4-5 coats it won’t look like you’re making any progress. At around layer 5 it starts to take on that satin sheen you’re looking for. Then maybe a coat after that.

Me and many of the woodworkers in Oregon have been using this technique for years with stunning finishes that don’t look painted on – the look you get by applying varnish. I’ve been happy with anything from straight poly at Home Depot (ok), Rockler’s General Finishes with some linseed oil (wonderful), or Daly’s Profin, a similar oil base (fantastic). Most of the time it just takes patience. Realize it’s only three days from start to finish. Two shifts a day, morning and evening, for six shifts.

Bob LaCivita answers: Applying a brush finish is difficult with polyurethane or lacquer. I guess you’re not doing anything wrong, you just need to refine your approach.

I’m a big fan of poly and vinyl and I remember struggling with that at the time. Urethane and varnish hold up where oil varnish and shellac fail. Here is my approach that I taught myself.

Purchase a high solids urethane. Parks is my destination. Fabulon is also a very good finish. Aside from having a great name since the 1950’s, this is some tough stuff and is used on floors. It’s softer and more elastic than Park’s. It’s not as soft as Spar lacquer.

Make sure your project is sanded to a 220 grit or slightly higher. I cut my poly with good quality mineral spirits, 2/3 poly and 1/3 mineral spirits for the first two coats.

I use the first coat to seal the pores and lift the grain. Use a good quality soft brush for oil based finishes. And apply with even strokes, slightly overlapping the previous one. Your punches should be similar to an airplane taking off and landing. Think Cessna and not Navy Jet. Leave to dry for 24 hours. The drying time is very important. If you think it’s dry put your hand on it and if it feels cool it needs more time.

Once dry, sand with 220 grit. If it’s a large surface, I sand it with a power sander that has a small orbit. If rubber balls curl up while sanding, the finish is not dry. Grinding should produce fine white powder dust. Wear a mask or respirator. Don’t worry about grinding through the finish. Clean the surfaces with a damp cloth and blow out the corners and crevices with an air gun. If you don’t have an air gun, use a rag and a soft brush.

The second layer is a repeat of the first. After drying you will notice that the surface is much smoother than the first coat because you lifted and trimmed the grain. At this point, I’m looking for areas that have absorbed the finish more than others. This is more likely on woods with short, slanted or quilted grains and softwoods. Some areas will be glossy and others will be matte. I recoat the dull areas, let them dry and sand them down to 220 grit.

The third coat is the tricky one. I cut the poly by feel. I rub it between my fingers and feel the viscosity. That is the art in the word craftsman. That’s no help. My guess is five parts poly to one part mineral spirits. I use a 2˝ badger tail brush available from Dick Blick (dickblick.com). I load the brush with a small amount of finish. Dip it in 3/8˝ to 1/2˝. I apply the finish slowly, finishing each pass with the airplane technique. Allow to dry for 24 hours and sand with wet, dry 320 grit sandpaper. I prefer to sand dry though, if I have stubborn brush marks I sand wet using mineral spirits as a lubricant. Then I rub lightly with 0000 steel wool. Perform all sanding work with a firm, gentle hand. The goal is to remove the brush marks. If you cut through the finish, repeat the process of the third layer.

The final coat of paint is easy. With the third layer mixture, dip a cotton rag into the poly and rub a layer on the project. Do one surface at a time. Quickly rub off the excess with a dry rag. When machining adjacent surfaces, be sure to rub any poly off previously machined surfaces. Stand back and admire.

Clean your brushes well after each shift. Don’t leave oil-based finish rags in your shop. You can ignite yourself. I soak them in water and lay them flat outwards.

Bruce Hamilton answers: A good quality natural hair brush is necessary. If you are using a varnish that contains a matting agent intended to give a semi-gloss or satin finish, make sure you give the varnish a good stir to evenly distribute the matting agents. After stirring up the lacquer, I always decant a small amount into another smaller container to prevent dust or dirt from getting back into the original container. Remember to stir this smaller container occasionally too.

Another point is the temperature of the air in which you paint. High temperatures can cause the paint to begin to harden before you can peel it off.

Dumping is done by wiping the excess paint on your brush on the side of the small container, then gently pulling the brush, holding it perpendicular to the surface, then brushing the excess back into the can or onto unpainted areas.

Diluting the paint is also important. Start by adding 1/8 part odorless mineral spirits to the can you are brushing from. Add more sparkling water if needed and test the results on a scrap before using it on your project.

You may be wondering what kind of hardwood floor applicator to use for an upcoming project. With so many different types of finish applicators, how do you know you’re using the right one? That’s a great question we hear a lot, and we’re going to answer it! In this blog we take a look at different types of wood floor applicators to help you make the best choice for your next project.

First and foremost, you should check the paint manufacturer’s instructions to see what they say about recommended application methods. But in general, here are the types of finish applicators you should use with different types of finishes. (Click here if you need a crash course on the differences between floor coverings.)

T bars

A T-Bar with a synthetic cover is best for use with water-based hardwood floor finishes. This is a great way to get around door jambs and other tight spots, and is perfect for the “snow plow” method. Using the T-Bar method will help you avoid the appearance of round marks, turn marks, and uneven gloss levels in the floor.

Various T-bar lengths and sizes are available, so with wider T-bars you will need more finishing and make sure your turns are very smooth to avoid making mistakes.

Watch our video on applying water-based finish with a T-Bar below.

Lambswool applicators

A lambswool applicator on a wooden block is the recommended method for applying oil-based polyurethane to a hardwood floor. But if you recently bought a lambswool applicator, be careful. The fibers tend to get stuck in the wet finish. Before using your new applicator, comb out the lambswool or cover it with a piece of tape and tear the tape to remove loose or stray fibers. We recommend storing your lambswool in mineral spirits.

to brush

Using a brush—usually a China bristle brush attached to a long pole—is the recommended method for applying conversion varnishes (also known as Swedish or acid-cure varnishes). Brushes are also commonly used to apply oil-based and moisture-curing polyurethane finishes.

The point of using a brush is that you are forced to watch what you are doing very carefully as the application process is quite slow. This is especially important for the acid curing process, as this type of finish tends to leave “skip spots” on the floor due to delamination, which you can easily miss when applying the finish with a roller or T-bar.

The brushes also tend to hold a lot of finish, which is useful when applying oil-based poly. A brush is also great for applying finish to hard-to-reach areas, like toe kicks and along wall edges.

Trim pads are good for use with water-based products as they don’t last through to the finish. When applying a water-based polyurethane finish to a hardwood floor, you should always use a synthetic applicator (except for synthetic lambswool). Decorative upholstery is also great for cutting into corners and small spaces.

roll

A roller is the recommended method for applying some water-based polyurethanes, as well as some oil-based polyurethanes and moisture-curing poly finishes. Rollers work well for finishing multi-directional floors such as floors. B. Parquet. You can also apply conversion polish with a roller as long as you make sure you apply enough product.

As always, check the paint manufacturer’s instructions to see what they recommend before getting down to work.

What kind of applicator do you need? Whatever it is, chances are we have it in stock. Check out our extensive inventory of finish applicators including brands like Padco, Duratool, Bona and more. You can shop online 24/7. If you have questions about choosing the right type of applicator for your needs, call us at (800) 737-1786.

In my last post I shared with you my struggles with the coffee table I was trying to recreate for my boyfriend. I finally figured out the sanding and got the patch to go on nicely. (If you missed this post and want to read it.) Then I was ready to apply the top coat over the stain finish. Polyurethane made the most sense for this table since the stain was oil based and needed an oil based top coat (never mix oil based paints and water based top coats).

After all the struggles with starting this repair process, surely that final step will be a piece of cake, right? Not correct. Boy did I learn a lot from this beautiful table. Here are 7 tips I want to share from my experience of applying a polyurethane top coat to my oil-based Minwax stain treatment.

Make sure your finish is completely dry before applying your top coat. I let the stain on the table dry according to the instructions on the can. However, when I started applying the polyurethane, the stain was absorbed by the top coat, leaving the finish looking streaky. I tried wiping the streaks away, but in the end I decided it would be best to start from scratch. Again. From the beginning. For the third time with this project. My advice is to let the finish dry for as long as possible before applying your top coat. Patience is definitely a virtue here. Give him at least 24 hours, longer if you can. Invest in a quality brush with thick, natural bristles. I started with a foam brush because I had one on hand and the tin says the polyurethane can be applied with a foam brush. However, I have found that a good quality natural bristle brush gives a much smoother finish. They’re not cheap, but the price is worth the trouble you save. I used a similar one:

Soak your brush in mineral spirits for about 10 minutes before you start applying, and press the brush into the solvent solution to remove any air from the brush’s bristles. I found and watched this video. Thin your polyurethane with mineral spirits. The mineral spirits provide a more forgiving polyurethane coating and also help the finish pop bubbles before it sets and dries. Pour the polyurethane into a separate container and add some mineral spirits. A good formula is three parts polyurethane to one part mineral spirits. Stir the mixture very SLOWLY. You should never vigorously shake or stir the polyurethane as this can create air and more bubbles, which you want to avoid. Apply a light coat of mineral spirits to the surface of your project before applying the first coat of polyurethane. This helps the polyurethane go a little easier. Slow and steady wins the race. This is not a process that you can rush. Rushing and skipping steps will only give you an ugly, bubbly finish. When you load your brush with polyurethane and place it on the surface of your project, drag it very slowly. This will minimize the bubbles in your finish. Do not rework the polyurethane after applying it to your surface. The more you brush it to try to smooth out any bubbles or brush marks, the more bubbles you will create. Brush it on very slowly and give it one final pass with feathery pressure of your brush in one direction and then leave it alone.

Here is the final product after all my trial and error. So thankful it turned out so great in the end and glad I can help you learn from my mistakes!

During your spring cleaning, take a few minutes to check the condition of your wood furniture and trim. Do some of the surfaces look dull, cloudy and tired? Also, if you plan to refinish worn woodwork at some point in the future, in the meantime, you can try an easier way to revitalize it. In many cases, simply applying mineral spirits — also known as paint thinner — goes a long way in restoring warmth and shine to surfaces.

If you don’t have bottled water on hand, check your local home improvement or hardware store. You can even buy it online. This stuff is widely available and also boasts the advantage of being inexpensive. When finished, soak a clean and absorbent cloth in the mineral spirits, then wipe down the wood that needs a surface refresh. Mineral spirits work as a solvent to cut through stubborn dirt and build-up of polish, wax and oils.

Add more mineral spirits to the cloth as needed and continue rubbing the wood until the cloth no longer picks up residue. Use an old toothbrush or a fine steel wool pad to access detailed or hard-to-reach areas, such as B. the carved part of a mantelpiece. For something even gentler than denatured alcohol alone, some restorers cut the solvent with a mild soap (such as Murphy Oil Soap, available on Amazon). Apply the solution with a sponge or brush before wiping with a clean cloth.

Although relatively strong, mineral spirits do not harm clear wood finishes and are therefore worth at least an experiment. You may be pleasantly surprised by the results. However, be careful not to use a stronger solvent as this could completely remove the finish.

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Because there are fumes to be aware of, make sure your work area has adequate ventilation. Also remember that mineral spirits are flammable. So when you’re done working, be mindful of where you put (or how you dispose of) the cloths you use.

Compared to stripping and finishing woodwork, applying mineral spirits is quicker and much, much easier. But even after the finish has been renewed, you might still feel that the furniture or paneling still needs a touch up, but at least you can save that work for another day – or maybe next year!

Polyurethane is widely revered as one of the most durable yet easy to apply wood protection finishes. Polyurethanes are commonly available in both oil-based and water-based formulas, and there are slight differences between the two in both performance and application. Standard polyurethane is applied with a brush, but there are also smudge-on formulas that are applied with a rag, as well as spray paints in aerosol cans. Regardless of the type you use, few surfaces are as suitable as polyurethane for the protective finishes when your project is subject to heavy wear and tear.

The Spruce / Chelsea Damraksa

Which is better – oil-based or water-based polyurethane?

Deciding on an oil-based or water-based polyurethane largely depends on your project and preferences. Oil-based polyurethanes are slightly easier to apply and can be less temperamental than water-based formulations. They are also slightly thicker and contain more solids, so two or three coats are required, while water-based poly requires three or four coats. However, oil-based polyurethane paints are prone to brush marks and take much longer to dry, which can slow down your project and potentially increase the risk of bugs or dust getting into your paint before it dries.

Water-based polyurethane versions dry much faster, are slightly more self-leveling, and have less odor when applied than oil-based versions. On the other hand, water-based poly tends to lift wood grain, is prone to water staining, and can be temperamental when applied over some wood stains.

Color is another distinguishing feature. Oil-based polyurethane typically gives wood a warm amber glow, especially on lighter wood species like white oak, maple or birch. Water-based formulas are generally more neutral or clear. Water-based poly has a milky white appearance when applied, but becomes clear as it dries.

Tips for working with polyurethane

First, stir a can of polyurethane—never shake it. Why? Shaking a can of polyurethane introduces numerous bubbles into the product, which will show up in your final finish. Instead, gently but thoroughly stir the product before each use.

Apply the finish in a clean, well-ventilated area. Polyurethane takes hours, not minutes, to dry; That’s plenty of time for dust to settle or insects to land on the surface and damage the final product. Both water- and oil-based products emit strong fumes when drying (although oil-based products are significantly worse), so proper ventilation is a must. Just don’t finish your job outdoors where you can’t control dust, bugs and other flying finish ruiners.

It is best to apply polyurethane to flat (like in flat) surfaces so the finish can level itself and is less likely to drip. Dripping or running may occur when applying polyurethane to vertical surfaces. Minimize this problem by applying thinner layers or switching from standard brush poly to a smudge or spray finish, both of which can be applied in very thin layers. If you end up running or dripping, try sanding them down between coats as you sand, or gently remove them with a sharp razor blade (followed by sanding to touch up the blemish).

As you complete each fresh coat as you apply, check your work with a bright rim light. Crouch down to see the light reflecting off the surface. This will highlight imperfections like bumps, bubbles, ugly brush marks, and places you just missed or where the finish is too light. You can fix these problems when the finish is still wet, but not when it’s starting to set.

Prepare the wood

As with all wood finishes, good results depend on smooth, clean wood surfaces, but this is doubly true for clear finishes such as polyurethane. Sand your wood with at least 220 grit sandpaper. For open pore woods (like oak, ash or walnut) you can apply a wood grain filler before the polyurethane to get an ultra smooth finish.

Clean the wood very thoroughly to remove sanding dust before each new coat of polyurethane using a vacuum cleaner (if available) and a vacuum cloth. You can also use a denatured rag (for an oil-based poly) or cheesecloth dampened with denatured alcohol (for a water-based poly).

Application of oil-based polyurethane

You can thin oil-based polyurethanes with mineral spirits or naphtha, but this is not necessary for most applications; Check the manufacturer’s recommendations on the product label. Thinning can help the finish flow into fine details and nooks and crannies with less buildup.

Apply oil-based poly with a fine-bristled brush (natural or synthetic bristles) or foam brush. Avoid cheap bristle brushes as they tend to leave obvious brush marks. Foam brushes are inexpensive (and disposable) and work well on most flat surfaces. Bristle brushes are better for sculpted edges and fine details.

Brush on the polyurethane so that the brush strokes are parallel to the grain of the wood. Use a sufficient but not too thick layer of lacquer. Complete each area with long, straight strokes to brush out as many bubbles as possible. The few remaining bubbles usually disappear within moments.

After the first coat is completely dry (per manufacturer’s instructions), lightly sand the entire surface (again, parallel to the grain) with 320 grit sandpaper. The polyurethane sands easily, so be careful not to cut through the thin layer sanding and damaging the stain or wood underneath. Remove any dust with a vacuum cleaner and a tack cloth before applying the second coat.

Repeat these steps until the desired level of protection is achieved. Two layers is the minimum for protection, but floors and anything else that will be subject to heavy wear or occasional moisture should get at least three layers. Each layer also makes the finish a bit smoother. After your last coat you can rub out the finish with #0000 steel wool to an even shine level, followed by an application of paste wax for a nice shine.

Application of a water-based polyurethane

Water-based polyurethanes do not mix well with oil-based stains. So if you are applying a stain you should lightly ‘roughen’ the stained surface with some synthetic steel wool before applying your water based polyurethane. Because oil and water don’t mix, this prevents the polyurethane from beading off the surface like water on a freshly waxed car.

The basic application technique for water based poly is similar to oil based poly. Apply a very thin coat of polyurethane using a fine brush, foam pad or cloth. Work with the grain and avoid applying too much polyurethane to avoid increasing the grain.

The first coat should be dry within a few hours and you can then apply a second coat. If you apply this way, you may not have to sand between coats like you do with oil-based poly; Check the manufacturer’s recommendations. Plan on at least three layers of water-based poly on lightly used projects and at least four layers on floors and any parts that need maximum protection.

Wipe and spray polyurethanes

The main advantage of wipe and spray polyurethanes is their thinness. Both can be applied in wafer-thin layers that result in less build-up in nooks and crannies, provided you don’t apply too much. Wipe poly is applied with a clean, lint-free cloth. Spray poly works just like spray paint. Some woodworkers like to use spray polyester for a thin top coat over base coats of traditional polyurethane, giving a smooth finish with no brush marks.

Both wipe and spray formulas are a good solution for tricky applications, like fine details or vertical surfaces. The light application reduces drips and deposits. The main downside to these thinner formulas is that you’ll likely need more coats for a good coat of protection – maybe five or six coats instead of two or three with traditional brush poly.

Removing old paint by grinding, scraping, or other means may generate lead-containing dust or fumes. Exposure to lead dust or fumes can cause brain damage or other adverse health effects, especially in children or pregnant women. Controlling exposure to lead or other hazardous materials requires the use of appropriate protective equipment, such as protective clothing. For more information, call the National Lead Information Center at 1-800-424-LEAD (in the US) or contact your local health authority.

ATTENTION

DANGER: Rags, steel wool, other scraps soaked with this product, and grinding residue can spontaneously catch fire if improperly disposed of. Immediately place rags, steel wool, other scraps soaked with this product, and sanding residue in a sealed metal container filled with water. Dispose of in accordance with local fire regulations. WARNING: CONTAINS ALIPHATIC HYDROCARBONS. Content is FLAMMABLE. Keep away from heat and open flames. VAPOR HARMFUL. Use only with adequate ventilation. To avoid overexposure, open windows and doors or use other means to provide fresh air during application and drying. If you experience watery eyes, headache, or dizziness, move to fresh air or wear a respirator (NIOSH-approved) or leave the area. Avoid contact with eyes and skin. Wash hands after use. Keep container closed when not in use. Do not transfer contents to other containers for storage. FIRST AID: In case of eye contact, flush thoroughly with plenty of water for 15 minutes and seek medical attention. In case of skin contact, wash thoroughly with soap and water. If you have difficulty breathing, provide fresh air and call a doctor. If swallowed, call a poison control center, hospital emergency room, or doctor immediately. DELAYED EFFECTS OF LONG-TERM OVERLOAD. Contains solvents which may permanently damage the brain and nervous system. Intentional misuse by intentionally concentrating and inhaling the contents can be harmful or fatal. WARNING: This product contains chemicals known to cause birth defects or other reproductive harm. DO NOT TAKE INSIDE. KEEP AWAY FROM CHILDREN.