Oxalic Acid Pressure Washing? Trust The Answer

Cleaning with oxalic acid? Here’s what you need to know.

Oxalic acid is a reliable and effective cleaner when used in appropriate applications. Oxalic acid can be used to remove rust and other difficult stains from areas such as buildings, boats, swimming pools, concrete driveways, sidewalks, iron machinery, wooden decks, stairs or trim. Oxalic acid also has a reputation for being an excellent wood bleach for restoring stained, untreated light-colored wood to its natural color. If you’re considering an oxalic acid cleanse, here are some things you need to know.

How to clean with oxalic acid

First, pre-clean the stained area by removing any dirt, grease, grime, or debris from the surface, possibly involving the use of soap and hot water. If the stained area has been pre-cleaned, you need to make an oxalic acid solution.

Oxalic acid comes in dry crystal form and is typically mixed with warm or hot water to make it into a solution for purification. The solution can then be sprayed onto the stained area and scrubbed with a brush to remove stains. When cleaning with oxalic acid, it may be necessary to leave the product on the stain to be effective. Also, heavily soiled areas may need to be cleaned several times. After cleaning with an oxalic acid solution, rinse thoroughly with plenty of water and allow the surface to be cleaned dry.

How much oxalic acid do you need to use? For maximum effectiveness, the ratio of oxalic acid to water varies depending on the application in which it is used. To start, here are some suggestions:

For outdoor areas like concrete driveways, sidewalks, and buildings, add one cup of oxalic acid per gallon of warm water.

For wood applications, use two cups of oxalic acid crystals per gallon of hot water. Oxalic acid is effective in removing many types of stains on wood, including black water stains, weathering and tannin stains. Spread the solution after application to prevent uneven bleaching. After scrubbing, rinse the surface thoroughly until no white residue is visible. If used in a wood finishing application, ensure no white residue is left prior to sanding.

To remove rust on metal machine parts, first pre-clean with soap and water to remove grease and dirt. Metal parts can be soaked in a solution of 10 parts water and 1 part oxalic acid. Soaking may require up to a day of soaking to remove all rust. Rinse and dry clean parts.

Do you have feedback on how to clean with oxalic acid? We’d love to hear it!

How oxalic acid works

Oxalic acid is well known for its ability to remove rust stains. How does Oxalic remove a stain that many other types of cleaning chemicals cannot? Here are the fascinating facts!

When oxalic acid comes into contact with rust, a chemical reaction known as the double displacement reaction takes place. This converts the rust (aka iron oxide) into iron oxalate. Because ferric oxalate is a water-soluble salt, it dissolves in water and is easily rinsed out.

Basically, the iron in the rust binds to the oxidized carbon in the acid to create iron oxalate and allows the hydrogen and oxygen to come together to form more…. Water.

It looks like this:

Fe2O3 + 3H2C2O4 = Fe2(C2O4)3 + 3H2O

Iron oxide (rust) + oxalic acid = ferric oxalate + water

(Cool, huh? And who knew cleaning with oxalic acid created more water?)

Does oxalic acid damage…?

While oxalic acid is commonly used for cleaning, it is recommended that oxalic acid not be exposed to metals for long periods of time as this can cause metal ions to leach into the solution.

Also, be careful when using in higher concentrations as it may damage some surfaces (e.g. enameled cast iron). A better option may be to use a weaker solution several times.

Oxalic should not cause damage to surfaces with which it comes into incidental contact, such as B. paint or varnish. In diluted quantities it can also be used to clean galvanized metal or stainless steel. Flushing your cleaning solution into the grass or other plants shouldn’t harm them if you use a lot of water.

Wear protective gear when using oxalic acid

When cleaning with oxalic acid, remember that it is a strong acid and a poison. Wear protective clothing such as safety goggles and rubber gloves. Oxalic acid can cause skin irritation and any exposed skin should be washed thoroughly after handling. When working with the dry crystals, take extra precautions to avoid inhalation or other internal exposure. See Safety Data Sheet for full safety information.

Where to buy oxalic acid

Request a Quote for Oxalic Acid in 55 lb Bags. Or, for smaller quantities, look for products labeled “wood bleach” or “rust remover” at your local hardware store.

While washing with pure water can get the job done, it’s better to add detergent to your pressure washer. It allows better removal of stains, dirt and other debris. You can apply less pressure from the machine and therefore minimize the risk of damage.

With so many cleaning products on the market, it can be difficult to know which one to choose. But we’ve narrowed it down to the 10 best pressure washers based on the task. So sit back, relax and read all about these amazing soaps!

Our Top Picks Oh So Spotless earns a commission from the following independently selected links at no additional cost to you. Features of the image model product comparison table

Best Scent for Vehicles Chemical Guys Watermelon Watermelon or honeydew scent

Advanced foam technology

Scratch Free Wash Check Price Best with Wax Chemical Guys Extreme High Gloss Finish

High foam formula

pH balanced formula Check Price Best suited for concrete zep driveways and concrete work on a range of surfaces

Professional solution

Removes unsightly stains. Check price Karcher’s best multipurpose biodegradable laundry soap

Best for different surfaces

Thick and biodegradable formula Check Price Best for Cars Sun Joe Snow Foam 3 fantastic scent options

Fast foaming formula

For Multiple Vehicle Types Check Price Best for Stain Removal Oil Eater Cleaner Degreaser Biodegradable formula

Super focused

For indoor and outdoor stains. Check Price Best Multipurpose Oxy Simple Green Safe & Non-Toxic Formula

Cleans a variety of surfaces

For pressure washing or by hand check price Best for Mold Oxy Solve House Cleaner No harsh chemicals

Cleans up to 6,400 square feet

Removes mold and mildew stains

Versatile product

Removes stubborn stains

Works with low pressure washer settings

Uses special additives Check price

product reviews

Are you ready to deep clean your chosen surface? We’ve put together this guide based on researching real customer reviews, expert advice, and applying our own insights.

Here are the 10 best pressure washers.

1. Chemical Guys Watermelon Snow Foam Cleanser Best Scented Pressure Washer Detergent for Vehicles Price Comparison Looking for a deliciously scented option specifically for vehicles? Then look no further than this Chemical Guys Watermelon Snow Foam Cleaner. Also available with a honeydew scent on request. This is a high sudsing cleaning wash perfect for deep cleaning your car while protecting wax and sealant. It works by getting rid of dirt, grime and other contaminants with its large amount of foaming foam. It’s a pH neutral formula so it’s safe for weekly washing and won’t harm your car. It is safe on all vehicles whether the surface is paint, rubber, vinyl, glass or plastic. This includes cars, trucks, SUVs, SUVs and more. Join thousands of happy customers as you enjoy this authentically scented car cleaner! Benefits Watermelon or honeydew scent.

Advanced foam technology.

Scratch-free washing.

Perfect for weekly cleaning. Cons It can leave residue, especially when rinsing with hard water.

Some customers reported that the car felt sticky afterwards. Product Specifications Multipurpose Yes; Works in a foam gun, cannon, or pressure washer Performance Cleans vehicles Eco-friendly No watermelon or honeydew scent Quantity One gallon

2. Chemical Guys Extreme Bodywash & Wax Car Soap Best Wax Pressure Washer Check Price This car cleaner contains synthetic wax to give your car extra protection with every wash. The formula is pH balanced so it won’t strip away wax or sealer coatings. You can wash your car knowing you’re using something super safe. It’s also smooth and scratch-free, so your beloved car can stay in top condition. This not only cleans your car, but also gives it a nice shine. It doesn’t matter if your car is black, white, gray or purple – it’s designed to work on any paint color. Two different waxes are used for this. Carnauba wax protects the car from the harsh UV rays of the sun. It is then mixed with a synthetic wax to ensure durability. Both of these work together to reinforce your car’s existing wax or sealer layer to give it that freshly waxed look. Get out your pressure washer to use this product, or use it in a foam gun or foam cannon! This ensures it’s versatile if one day your pressure washer is out of the game. Benefits High gloss finish.

High foam formula.

pH balanced formula to protect your car.

Smooth and scratch free. Cons It doesn’t cut through dirt without scrubbing.

The soap runs easily out of the bottle. Product Specifications Multipurpose Yes; works in a foam gun, cannon or pressure washer. Performance Cleans and waxes the car. Environmentally friendly. no smell No information. Amount ½ gallon

3. Zep Pressure Washer For Driveways & Concrete Best Pressure Washer Cleaner For Concrete Check Price Concrete gets a lot of foot and automobile traffic. So it’s a good idea to get something special for cleaning, like this Zep Cleaner. This is specifically designed for concrete and driveways by targeting stubborn oil and grease stains. You can also use it on asphalt, brick, stone, patios and parking lots – so a pretty versatile choice! This is a professional solution so you can rest assured that it will remove unsightly stains. You can expect to give your driveway and concrete surfaces a new lease of life! This comes in a pack of four, which is 3.2 gallons, so you get a lot for your money. Warning Do not use this on wood, painted, sealed or stained surfaces that will not be finished. Pros Versatile choice as it works on a range of surfaces.

Professional solution.

It removes unsightly stains. Disadvantages It is not safe for water bodies. Product Specifications Multipurpose Yes Performance Removes grease and oil stains Environmentally friendly Partial odor Not specified Quantity 3.2 gallons

4. Karcher Multi-Purpose Pressure Washer Soap Best Biodegradable Pressure Washer Detergent View on Amazon View on HomeDepot This detergent is not only versatile – it’s biodegradable. This is a huge factor for many people because eco-friendliness is definitely cool these days! The Kärcher multi-purpose soap is safe for use in landscapes and bodies of water. When it goes into the sewer, it will naturally biodegrade instead of contaminating the ecosystem. Customers also love that it creates a nice thick lather. This contributes to a more effective cleaning and helps you see where you have already cleaned. This is suitable for a range of surfaces. Clean your decks, driveways, sidewalks, stone siding, brick siding and more. You can also clean garden tools, lawn mowers and garden furniture. Just check the manufacturer’s instructions if you have questions about specific finishes. Benefits Highly concentrated; A gallon makes up to 20 gallons of soap.

Perfect for a range of surfaces.

thick formula.

Biodegradable formula. Cons Quite a few customers said the product worked fine, nothing special.

Does not work on mold or mildew. Product Specifications Multi-Purpose Yes Performance General Cleaning Eco-Friendly Yes Fragrance It is perfumed but the fragrance is not stated Quantity One gallon

5. Sun Joe Snow Foam Car Wash Soap Best Pressure Washer Cleaner for Cars View on Amazon View on Walmart View on HomeDepot Looking for a specific car detergent? This snow foam from Sun Joe is a popular and popular choice. It is available in three scent options: orange-vanilla, coconut and pineapple. You can use it to clean your car, caravan, truck or other vehicles. Safe for wax and sealant, it protects your car while giving it a deep clean. This is a great option to quickly clean your vehicle. Fast-foaming and highly viscous, it binds and washes away dirt on your car and leaves a wonderful shine. It’s gentle on paint, but tough on dirt. The product itself is highly concentrated, so a small amount is enough. You can use this dozens of times and make the most of your money! Customers also love how strong the scents are. While they don’t stick and give your car a long-lasting scent, it makes the whole cleaning process that much more enjoyable. Protect Your Car When washing a car with a pressure washer, be sure to stick to a pressure washer that is less than 1900 PSI to protect your car’s paintwork and avoid scratches. Pros Three fantastic fragrance options.

Fast foaming formula.

Catches dirt and washes it away.

Ideal for multiple vehicle types. Disadvantages It may leave streaks or a white film on your vehicle.

Some customers were not satisfied with the amount of foam. Product Specifications General Purpose No – Vehicles Only Performance Removes Dirt From Cars Environmentally Friendly Yes Scent Orange, Vanilla, Pineapple, or Coconut Quantity One gallon

6. Oil Eater Cleaner Degreaser Best Pressure Washer Detergent for Stain Removal View on Amazon View on Tractorsupply Tired of stains? This cleaner and degreaser from Oil Eater is something to consider. It is designed to clean and degrease clothing and a range of surfaces. Customers rave about its stain-fighting ability. Whether they had oil stains, grass stains, tire stains, grease stains or something else – that should do the trick. You can even use it to remove stains from laundry! Yes, you read that correctly. Clean your driveway and clothes with this product. In addition to laundry and driveways, it also works on floors, carpets, tubs, grills, decks, stoves, siding, engines, tools, range hoods and more. You will get so much benefit from this purifier. It dissolves grease and oils without the use of acids, abrasives or petroleum solvents. It’s water-based and biodegradable, so you can use it with confidence. It is also USDA approved for non-food surfaces. Benefits Biodegradable formula.

Super concentrated, so a little goes a long way.

Works on indoor and outdoor stains.

Removes oil, grass, grease, tire stains and more. Cons It may take multiple applications to remove tough or old stains.

Oil stain removal gets mixed reviews from customers. Product Specifications Multipurpose Yes Performance Dissolves oil and grease stains Eco-friendly Yes Scent Lemon Quantity One gallon

7. Oxy Simple Green Total Outdoor Cleaner Best Multipurpose Pressure Washer Check Price Want something you can use in a number of situations? This multi-purpose cleaner from Oxy is ideal for a range of projects. This includes cleaning wood surfaces, composites, vinyl, metal, patio furniture, plastic, wicker, concrete, stone, brick and asphalt. Not only that, you can use this with your pressure washer or by hand! This makes this product super versatile. You have a lot of benefits and save money because you only need one detergent for different purposes. It removes dirt and stains from a variety of sources. These include mold, mildew, moss and algae. It uses peroxide to whiten and renew surfaces, which is much safer than bleach. It is also safe for landscapes and surrounding bodies of water such as rivers, pools and streams. Benefits Safe and non-toxic formula.

Cleans a variety of surfaces.

Can be used in a pressure washer or by hand.

It is landscape and water safe. Disadvantages Not as effective by hand as in a high-pressure cleaner.

Not super effective on algae. Product Specifications Multipurpose Yes Performance Dissolves dirt and stains, brightens surfaces Eco-Friendly Yes Scent Unscented Quantity One gallon

8. Oxy Solve Home & Exterior Cleaner Best Pressure Washer Cleaner For Mold Check Price Mold can be one of the most difficult substances and stains to remove. That’s where this handy Oxy Solve cleaner comes in. This cleaner is designed to remove mold and mildew stains. Compared to other products that are advertised as doing the same thing, this product has had many more delighted customers. It is specifically made for vinyl, aluminum, stucco, wood and brick house siding. If your house is made of another material, check with the manufacturer first to make sure it is suitable. It removes stains and discoloration from algae, moss and mold for a cleaner and more attractive home. This is especially important if you are planning a sale. Instead of bleach, it uses peroxide, which is a very powerful but safe ingredient. Overall, this is a safe and non-toxic formula that will leave you feeling guilt-free when using it. Benefits No harsh chemicals in the formula.

Cleans up to 6,400 square feet.

Removes mold stains and mold stains.

Safe for many trim materials. Cons You may need to scrub the mold or mildew with a brush or sponge before rinsing off the cleaner.

It’s already fairly diluted, so you may need to experiment with the detergent to water ratio. Product Specifications Multipurpose No – for fairings only Performance Removes mold, mildew and algae stains Eco-friendly Yes Fragrance Unscented Quantity One gallon

9. Simple Green Oxy Deck and Fence Cleaner Best Pressure Washer Cleaner For Decks Price Comparison Cleaning a deck with detergent instead of just water can whiten it, remove dirt more easily, and save you time. This Simple Green Oxy cleaner is our top pick for deck pressure washers. First, you can also use it for fencing, making it versatile. Two products for the price of one! In fact, it also works for pergolas, gazebos, and carports. It removes stubborn dirt, tree sap, oil and grease before washing away. It can even remove stains from mold, mildew, algae, moss, mud and clay. Overall, it ensures that your decking and fences are sparkling clean. Instead of bleach, it uses peroxide, a powerful but safe chemical that can remove dirt and brighten the patio’s appearance. Benefits Safe for outdoor use, landscape and wildlife.

Versatile product as it works on fences and decking and other wooden structures.

Removes dirt, oil, tree sap and grease.

Removes stubborn stains. Cons Some customers say it works just as well as water.

Requires some scrubbing for really stubborn stains. Product Specifications Multipurpose Yes Performance Removes dirt and stains Eco-friendly Yes Fragrance Unscented Quantity One gallon

10. Krud Kutter Green Siding Cleaner Best Pressure Washer Siding Cleaner View on Amazon View on HomeDepot Every few years it’s important to clean the siding of your home — and for that you need a good cleaning product. Our first choice is the facade cleaner from Krud Kutter. This is perfect for vinyl, aluminum, concrete, brick, stucco, masonry and wood. It uses an additive called Sporex to remove difficult stains of algae, fungus, mold, mildew and moss. This product promises to leave your home completely clean. It also uses special surfactants to penetrate the stains and loosen dirt, oil, grease, bird droppings, tree sap and acid rain. Even weathering on wood, chalking and oxidation can be removed with it. Whatever marks your siding, this cleaning product can help. Customers love that this detergent still does an incredible job, even on the lowest pressure washer setting. Benefits Removes all types of stains.

Works on a range of trim materials as well as driveways.

Works with low pressure washer settings.

Uses special additives and effective surfactants. Cons You may have to hand scrub some stains. Product Specifications Multipurpose Yes Performance Cleans and removes stains Environmental Yes Fragrance Not specified Quantity Two gallons or nine gallons

Do you need cleaning agents for pressure washers?

No, but it has advantages. It can fight stains, remove mold, dirt and stains. In general, it cleans better. Also, it makes the job easier because you can use less pressure and elbow grease.

However, not all pressure washers come with a soap tank, so check yours before you buy any cleaning supplies.

Pressure Washer Soap vs Laundry Detergent

The main difference between soap and detergent is the ingredients. In general, soaps are made with natural ingredients such as fat as a cleaning agent. Laundry detergents, on the other hand, use synthetic compounds and surfactants as cleaning agents (1).

Soaps are better for the environment, but detergents can be better for heavy-duty jobs. If you have plants or wildlife or sensitive surfaces around you, we recommend a soap. These are sometimes advertised as eco-friendly cleaning products.

How to Choose (Buyer’s Guide)

If you type pressure washer detergents on the internet, you will be presented with hundreds of options. No two are the same. We’ll help you create a checklist of things to consider before purchasing your laundry detergent.

Multi-Purpose Detergent Ask yourself if it is a multi-purpose detergent. Does it work on more than one surface? Can you use it without a pressure washer in case you need to clean stains? For many people, this doesn’t matter. They like to buy specific cleaning products for specific jobs, such as B. Decking, fences or concrete. But other people try to kill a few birds with one stone and get something that works across a range of projects and surfaces.

Budget Consider your budget before purchasing. Pressure washer detergent doesn’t come in a huge price range, but you should look at the cost per fluid ounce to make sure you’re getting your money’s worth.

Eco-friendliness If you’re looking for an eco-friendly option, you’re not alone! Check if the product is biodegradable and if the ingredients are environmentally friendly. While detergents can usually be stronger, eco-friendly soaps are certainly taking the market by storm and getting the job done for many happy customers.

Performance What is the main purpose of the product? Is it for removing stains, fighting mold and mildew, general cleaning, cleaning cars, or something else? Whatever you want to do, you will find a detergent that will get the job done.

Toxicity This goes hand in hand with environmental friendliness. Check the toxicity of the product, especially on human skin, respiratory system, wildlife, grass, flowers and pets that may be nearby.

Fragrance Last but not least, think about the fragrance. Some like a mild or unscented product, while others like something with a nice scent behind it.

Which detergent is best?

With this list of the 10 best pressure washers, which one is best for you? It all depends on what you are looking for! Whether you’re looking for something to clean your cars, decking or siding will change what’s best for you.

The bottom line is that these are all amazing products. But to find the one that works best for you, always check what it’s for, what it can do, and if it’s eco-friendly. Lastly, consider the scent – as this is important to many customers – and how much you’re getting for your purchase.

Once dissolved, use an artist brush and paint the mixture only on the stained areas. Let dry. The spot gets lighter. If it doesn’t go away, then do another layer. You may need to coat it 3 or 4 times, allowing time to dry between coats. Once the stain is gone, there can sometimes be a slight halo effect around the area where the stain has been bleached. To do this, soak a rag in the acid solution and wipe a thin layer over the stain and surrounding area. Let dry. This should take care of the stains. Once the stains are gone, you need to neutralize the acid so it doesn’t react with your wood surface. Mix two tablespoons of borax in a quart of hot water. Soak a rag in the borax solution, wipe down the floor and let it dry. Like oxalic acid, borax is a natural product.

Oxalic acid is primarily used as a bleaching agent, particularly on wood, and to remove iron stains without bleaching the wood. (If you want to remove the natural color of wood, you’ll need a two-part bleach made from sodium hydroxide and hydrogen peroxide.) For small stains, it’s recommended that users mix about two tablespoons of this in a quart of hot water and let it dissolve. For larger patches or entire sections of a floor, see the next tab for instructions. Wood bleach is also great for removing water stains and rust stains.

Oxalic acid (oxalate) is an all-natural, organic compound with the formula HO 2 C-CO 2 H. It’s found in vegetables like sorrel, spinach, and rhubarb. There are many methods of extracting it from vegetation, but modern methods produce it by oxidizing carbohydrates or glucose with nitric acid or vanadium pentoxide. It is a relatively strong acid for its acidic group. It is important to wear protective equipment and eye goggles when handling oxalic acid.

Have you ever stripped paint off a piece of furniture and found black spots or black rings from metal pots or prolonged exposure to water? Have you ever removed the surface of a floor and found black or dark brown animal urine stains in the wood that even sanding can’t remove? These are all iron stains caused by the chemical reaction of tannins in the wood mixing with the trace metals in urine and water.

Instructions for use

SURFACE PREPARATION: Wood must be free of all coatings, waxes and oils. Use appropriate paint strippers and cleaners to remove coatings.

MIXING: ALWAYS WEAR RUBBER GLOVES, EYE PROTECTION AND PROTECTIVE CLOTHING WHEN USING THIS PRODUCT. Dissolve the contents of this pack with a gallon of hot water.

APPLICATION:

Add the entire contents of the glass to 2 gallons of water, or 2 tablespoons per liter. Apply hot solution with scrub brush, old brush or wipe large areas. Apply liberally and leave the solution on the surface until bleached to the desired brightness. If the solution cools before the work is finished, reheat the solution, being careful not to bring it to a boil. Rinse the treated area repeatedly with clean water and allow to dry. Test the removal of the bleach from the dried wood by wiping the surface with a dark cloth and checking for any powdery residue. If there is powder, rinse again with clean water and allow to dry. The wood grain can be enhanced by using this product. Make sure all bleach residue is removed, then sand the wood and finish with the desired product.

KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN AND PETS.

MAY BE TOXIC TO SMALL PETS.

Working with older wood has its complexities, one of which is stains that sanding cannot remove. Often these stains are due to the chemical reaction of tannins with trace metals in the wood. These chemical reactions occur for a variety of reasons, including wet hardware that has been sitting on the wood for an extended period of time, or animal urine that has been in contact with the surface for an extended period of time. Luckily, wood bleaches like oxalic acid from The Real Milk Paint Co. can help you remove stains from wood without changing its original color. This formulation works on both small and large areas and also helps when you need to remove water stains or rust stains.

How oxalic acid is made

Oxalic acid from common vegetables like spinach, rhubarb and sorrel. The extraction process typically involves oxidizing carbohydrates and glucose in this plant vegetation with either nitric acid or vanadium pentoxide. This process creates powdered crystals that become fully activated when mixed with hot water, making them easy to store between uses and mix when needed.

Difference between oxalic acid and other wood bleaches

When exploring how to bleach wood, you’ve probably come across other options like two-part wood bleaches and wondered what the difference is between them and oxalic acid. The main difference is that oxalic acid restores wood surfaces to their original color or natural shade, while two-part bleaches usually lighten the wood all over. In addition, two-part bleaches also remove the color from many pigments and dyes, not just the wood they are used on. These formulations are called two-part bleaches because they are literally two parts that you must mix before bleaching. One pack typically contains lye and the other hydrogen peroxide. When you’re ready to use two-part bleach, either mix the two components together and apply to surfaces, or apply one at a time, depending on the brand.

Benefits of bleaching wood with oxalic acid

One of the main benefits of working with oxalic acid is that it’s one of the safer wood bleaching products, as long as you take the right precautions. Although still extremely corrosive and dangerous to handle without protective gear, this all-natural organic compound offers an eco-friendly option for bleaching wood. Because it doesn’t change the color of unstained areas, you don’t need to be as careful when using it as you would with stronger wood bleaches, and it also removes chemical stains and tannin stains from raw wood, making it a versatile option in construction or furniture restoration and apartments.

How to use oxalic acid to bleach wood in small and large spaces

If you only need to remove small stains on furniture areas where hardware has rested on the wood, you can mix a small amount with oxalic acid and save the rest for later. To do this, mix 2 tablespoons of our powder formulation per liter of water, then apply to the area with a fine brush. For larger areas, such as floors with extensive pet urine damage, simply mix the entire pack with a gallon of water. After mixing with the hot solution, cover the floor using a mop for quick and easy application.

Safety Considerations for Using Oxalic Acid Wood Bleach

Although natural, oxalic acid is a strong acid and requires proper equipment for safe use. This means that before you begin, you’ll need thick rubber or vinyl gloves and safety goggles. You should work in a well-ventilated area and use a personal respirator if you have any sensitivities, and consider wearing a dust mask while working even if you don’t. Also, wear a long-sleeved shirt and long pants for better protection in case you spill the mixture while working. To further reduce or limit the risk of injury, have a bucket of fresh water on hand while you work to immediately wash oxalic acid off your skin or eyes in case you accidentally expose bare skin to the chemical. As with all strong chemicals, keep oxalic acid out of the reach of children and pets when not in use.

Dos and don’ts for bleaching wood

When considering how to use wood bleach like oxalic acid in your projects, keep these do’s and don’ts in mind for best results.

Treat Oxalic Acid With Respect: Although completely natural, it cannot be overemphasized that oxalic acid is also very dangerous. Because it’s in crystal form, inhaling it can cause lung damage even before you mix it, so be sure to work in a well-ventilated area and possibly wear a personal respirator.

Don’t use oxalic acid with metal containers: oxalic acid eats away at metal and has the potential to corrode it enough to cause your mixture to leak and damage you or other surfaces. Instead, use ceramic or glass bowls to mix and store your mixture while you work.

Clean wood properly before bleaching: Before applying oxalic acid, make sure the surfaces are completely free of wax, varnish and oils. Remove any metal hardware as well, even if it’s not the hardware that caused the stain you want to remove.

Don’t expect all woods to react the same: some types of wood bleach better than others. So if you are unsure how the wood you are going to bleach will react to oxalic acid, you should do a spot test. You can test on an area of ​​your project that will be invisible once finished, or you can test on bare wood of the same species that you plan to bleach.

Work slowly and carefully: Just because oxalic acid bleaches unsoiled areas doesn’t mean you should be sloppy when applying it. As this is a hazardous chemical, respect the medium and apply gently in smooth, even layers, using either a soft rag or a brush.

Don’t Leave Excess Oxalic Acid: If you’ve applied too much oxalic acid, be sure to wipe it off immediately with a dry cloth. This reduces the risk of accidents and helps ensure your finished project looks its best.

Neutralize Oxalic Acid As You Work: Oxalic acid from The Real Milk Paint Co. is easily neutralized with borax. After coating your surface, mix 2 tablespoons of borax with 1 liter of water and then use the mixed solution to wipe down the wood to be bleached once the oxalic acid has dried.

Don’t premix oxalic acid: As with other wood bleaches, freshly mixed oxalic acid works best when used immediately. Mixing it ahead of time usually weakens the chemicals and reduces potency.

Accessories for oxalic acid wood bleaching projects

In addition to the personal protective equipment mentioned above, you will need several other materials for oxalic acid wood bleaching projects. First, you’ll need a glass or ceramic bowl to mix it with water and something to mix it with, e.g. B. a clean paint stirrer. You also need clean water to rinse off oxalic acid that gets on you or other surfaces, and to mix with borax when you’re ready to neutralize your surface. Scrubbers, old brushes and mops are best for application. Also, to check for residue after bleaching and neutralizing, have a soft, dark-colored cloth handy that makes powder and dust easily visible.

How to use wood bleach

When you’re ready to start your wood bleaching project, gather all the necessary supplies in the area you plan to work. Again, when working with strong chemicals, make sure the area is well ventilated and large enough for you to move around easily during the process.

clean surfaces

Oxalic acid works on bare wood, so the first step in using this formulation is to thoroughly clean your surface. That means removing old finishes, and The Real Milk Paint Co. has you covered there with stripping products designed for just about any surface you need to clean. For surfaces covered with modern paint and urethane, consider using Soy-Gel Professional Paint Remover, which removes multiple coats of shellac, paint, and other finishes in one application. This low VOC formula offers powerful decoating while still being safe enough for indoor use. Use Milk Paint Stripper on surfaces covered with Real Milk Paint. Once you’ve stripped the surface, or if you’re working with bare wood, wipe down the surface with trisodium phosphate to completely remove any residue.

Mix oxalic acid

Mixing is easy when using oxalic acid from The Real Milk Paint Co. For smaller batches, mix 2 tablespoons of our oxalic acid powder with a quart of hot water in a glass or ceramic container. For larger jobs, mix the entire package with 2 gallons of hot water. Remember that acids usually weaken over time, so your oxalic acid blend will work best when freshly mixed.

Apply wood bleach mixture

Once you’ve mixed your solution, grab an old scrubbing brush, brush, or mop, then use it to apply oxalic acid liberally to your surface. Be sure to wipe off any solution that splatters on other surfaces and leave the oxalic acid solution on until the wood has reached the desired level of lightness. If the stain is still there after the solution has dried, reapply it using the same technique and let it dry again.

Neutralize the oxalic acid

When you have achieved the look you want, neutralize the oxalic acid solution with borax. To do this, mix 2 tablespoons of borax with 1 liter of water and then apply the mixed solution liberally to the surface. While this isn’t a difficult step to take, it does help create a safer work environment and reduce the risk of injury when you complete your project. Once the solution has dried, you can rinse the surface with water.

Rinse the treated area with water

Once the wood has reached the desired level of lightness, rinse the treated area with water. You’ll likely need to flush the area several times to make sure you’ve removed all of the oxalic acid, so don’t be afraid to flush. When you’re done, let the bleached finish dry. It is very important to remove and rinse off any residual oxalic acid. So don’t be afraid to repeat these steps if necessary.

Check for residue

After treating the wood, rinsing it clean and allowing the surface to dry, use the dark rag provided with your supplies to check for residue. To do this, simply run it across the dried surface and then check for any powder left behind. If you find residue on the dark rag, repeat the rinsing step and check for residue again. Once your rag comes back clean, move on to the next step.

Complete your build or restoration

Once your surface has reached the desired level of brightness and you have rinsed, neutralized and removed any residue, you can add color or shine to the wood. Since your wood is bare and clean, you can simply work as usual with your choice of Real Milk Paint, cover creams or stains, or waxes such as Good Ol’ Brown Wax or Soapstone Sealer and Wood Wax.

It doesn’t have to be difficult to give the original wood used in antique construction the look you want when you use oxalic acid to remove stains or restore surfaces to their original beauty. Safe and effective when you take the right precautions, oxalic acid works equally well for experienced and novice DIYers alike, with a forgiving formulation that won’t leave your surface brighter than it originally was. By combining oxalic acid with other The Real Milk Paint Co. products, you can effortlessly enhance vintage pieces and create new furniture or flooring that mimics the look of antique items without breaking your back or breaking the bank.

In order to use oxalic acid there is a simple process that you need to follow. We’ve detailed it below and included a video to make the process as easy as possible.

Oxalic acid is the perfect chemical for removing stains from wood. It is made from rhubarb leaves and is available in crystal form.

Oxalic acid is used for:

Removal of tannin stains in oak or wood

Removal of iron stains

boat cleaning

bleach wood

Remove brick stains

Furniture restoration

beekeeping

You will need:

A container

A brush

scrub brush

safety gloves

A mask

Avoid contact with skin and eyes.

The process is extremely simple. We divided it into 4 steps. It can be completed very easily in a few minutes:

Mix 1 part oxalic acid with 6 parts warm water. Apply a generous amount of the mixture to the wood with a brush or sprayer. Use the scrub brush to scrub the stains. Allow to dry – the wood dries without the stains

To make it easy for you, we have included our video below detailing these steps:

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Henri de Marne

Q: We have some water stains from our flower pots on our bay window sill and are wondering what is the best way to remove them.

My wife bought a bleach. Also, we have a warehouse in north-central Pennsylvania that is made out of cement blocks and I want to insulate two of the exterior walls. Do I need a vapor barrier between the insulation? I want to use rigid insulation. — Pennsylvania, via email

A: If the bleach your wife bought isn’t getting rid of the stains, you may need a more harsh chemical.

In a plastic bucket, make a solution of oxalic acid crystals (available at paint stores) in hot water until saturated; Never use metal with oxalic acid.

Apply it to the spots with a brush. Leave for about half an hour and wipe with a clean white cloth dampened with white vinegar to remove any residue left after the water has evaporated.

If you see good but not entirely satisfactory results, repeat the treatment.

Be very careful with oxalic acid. It’s a very strong chemical. Use thick rubber gloves, skin and eye protection and avoid splashing.

You need to re-dye the treated areas that can be bleached lighter than the rest of the sills. There are also some plastic trays for placing flower pots on windowsills that you might consider.

As for your camp, I assume you plan to build frame walls over the blocks. If you insulate the log walls with hard foam insulation boards, you don’t need a vapor barrier. Just glue the joints between the panels in front of the frame.

Q: We live in a suburb of Chicago. The sump pump is in the basement just below our family room, where we spend much of our waking time. During a wet, rainy period, frequent running of the sump pump is annoying.

We helped the situation by installing a silent check valve, but now we want to further quiet the pump itself if possible.

We now have a Home Depot sump pump. Our on-site plumber said a Zoeller brand pump might be quieter, but not much better.

I’m considering building panels of some sort of soundproofing material in the corner where the pump is located. I’m not sure if these efforts would yield results or not.

I’m writing to see if you have any other suggestions or if you can comment on my thoughts on possible next steps. – Illinois, via email

A: Zoeller pumps are very good, but I doubt the difference in operating noise is enough to get what you want. This would be an expensive attempt at a solution with dubious results.

Your plan sounds good, and the easiest way to improve sound is to add rigid insulation to the panels. I assume you will make the plates easily removable to access the pump.

Another solution, which may be easier, is to install Roxul panels between the joists under the family room if the basement ceiling is open. Roxul is a very effective sound insulation. Buy it at construction supply stores.

Q: I have a problem. I have a rubber roof on a lower, slightly sloping roof. The problem is that over this sloping roof I have the overhang for the actual roof of my house. I’m quite concerned that the icicles coming off the top roof will fall onto my rubber roof and punch holes in the rubber underneath. For now I have a sheet of plywood on top of this section of the rubber roof with cement blocks holding it in place.

It’s not very attractive, to say the least. Is there anything else I can do to keep this from happening? The two roofs are about 10 to 15 feet apart. – by email

A: The only thing I can suggest aside from what you are currently doing is that you do what is necessary to prevent icicles from forming.

Large icicles on the eaves of heated buildings usually form because heat from the living space flows into the attic, causing the snow cover to melt from below.

Consider upgrading the attic’s insulation and make sure there are no convection paths carrying warm, humid air from the heated space into the attic.

This is best done with a blow-door test and infrared thermography. The contact person for these tests is an energy auditor.

If you have controlled the convection and heat loss, small and regular icicles can still form in the spring due to the sun and the ambient temperature. These are harmless as they melt slowly and usually do not fall off. But if they do, they shouldn’t damage the rubber roof.

Henri de Marne’s book About the House is available at www.upperaccess.com and in bookstores. His website is www.henridemarne.com. Readers may email questions to Henri de Marne at [email protected] or to First Aid for the Ailing House, Universal Uclick, 1130 Walnut St., Kansas City, MO 64106.

Q: Thank you for your article on rust and oxalic acid (“Rust Isn’t Your Best Paint,” January 7). We’ve had this problem for years! And it’s frustrating. We even use Culligan to treat our water. Where to buy oxalic acid, in what form and how is it used?

Nancy R. Seller

Napa

A: Oxalic acid is a powerful but toxic cleaning agent that removes rust and stains caused by iron, water and tannin. It is available in dry crystal form, which is dissolved in warm water for use. Be sure to read and follow the package directions. The correct application may differ depending on the intended use.

Oxalic acid is available at most hardware, home improvement, and home supply stores. I’ve also heard from readers who have picked it up at pharmacies and chemical stores. For the best (and cheapest) option, refine your search to “wood bleach” (oxalic acid is the ingredient in most decking “brighteners”) and focus on hardware and hardware stores. Wood bleaching products look and function similar to the more expensive products, for a fraction of the cost.

Granted, oxalic acid isn’t the easiest cleaner to use, and with good reason. It’s one of the most toxic. But when used safely and judiciously outdoors and away from pets and children, it is effective on stubborn rust problems. Just make sure you follow the container’s precautions.

Reader Response: I too have been plagued by rust on clothes in the laundry. I was sure it was the washing machine but thought I’d experiment to confirm. I washed white laundry, examined it after taking it out of the washing machine – and found no rust spots. Then I put them in the dryer, removed them and found that rust spots had appeared. Then I made another white load and didn’t put it in the dryer. No rust spots.

Simple solution? We replaced the dryer and that was the end of the rust. Additional tip from this expensive but necessary experiment: I spent a lot of time removing the rust spots before we replaced the dryer. I have found CLR (calcium, limescale and rust remover) to be very effective at removing the rust stains.

Barbara Hanley

Belmont

Oxalic acid is a popular bleaching agent among woodworkers because it bleaches and removes stains from wood without changing the wood’s natural color. It is important to properly bleach wood with oxalic acid to get the best result this method can offer. This is how you would bleach with oxalic acid.

To bleach stains from the wood surface, mix 28-30 grams of oxalic acid crystals with a cup of hot water and allow to dissolve completely. Apply the mixture to the surface of the wood you want to bleach with a brush and leave to dry. Make sure the entire area is evenly covered. Once it has dried, neutralize the acid in the wood by washing it off with a solution of borax and water. Finally, allow the wood to dry before sanding and finishing.

Wood bleaching is a delicate process that requires caution and a little expertise. With the right guidance, a novice can start bleaching like a pro. This article will walk you through the ABCs of bleaching wood with oxalic acid. We also answer all your questions about wood bleaching. Continue reading!

How to mix oxalic acid to bleach wood

Oxalic acid is packaged in crystalline form, which is usually dissolved in water before use. The ratio of oxalic acid to water depends on the need of the project. There are two ways to mix oxalic acid to bleach wood.

Wash oxalic acid

Oxalic acid wash is prepared to bleach a large surface area of ​​wood without deep bleaching. To prepare the wash for a small wood surface, mix one ounce (28 grams) of oxalic acid crystals with one cup of warm water. For larger surfaces, mix eight ounces of oxalic acid with one liter (950 mL) of warm water.

oxalic acid paste

To make oxalic acid paste, mix the crystals with a little warm water until you get a paste-like consistency. The paste formed is often used to spot treat stains on wood rather than covering the entire surface of the wood with the acid.

The paste is applied to the wood and allowed to dry before being scraped off. After scraping, the wood should be cleaned with a cloth.

Steps to bleach wood with oxalic acid

To bleach wood with oxalic acid you will need the following:

oxalic acid crystals

Hot water

spray bottle

A piece of brush

rubber gloves

borax

Step one: clean the wood.

The wood to be bleached should first be wiped clean with a suitable wood cleaner. The purpose of cleaning the wood is to remove any paint, wax, or finishes that may be preventing the bleach from penetrating the wood.

TIP: After cleaning, allow the wood to dry well before you start bleaching.

Step Two: Mix the oxalic acid crystals with hot water

To mix oxalic acid with water for bleaching, do the following:

Fill a glass two-thirds of the way with hot water.

Add the oxalic acid crystals to the hot water and stir slowly. We recommend Rockler Oxalic Acid for proven results.

Keep stirring and adding more crystals until they begin to collect at the bottom of the glass.

At this point you can stop adding the crystals as the solution is already saturated. Just shake it up and start using it.

Step Three: Apply the bleach to the wood.

Apply the oxalic acid solution to the wood surface with a brush. For larger areas such as the floor, a mop is suitable for applying the solution. It is important to ensure that the solution covers the entire surface of the wood as this is necessary for the wood to fade evenly.

Leave the oxalic acid solution on the wood until the desired brightness is achieved. If the stain persists after drying, the process can be repeated three or four times until the result is satisfactory.

Step four: neutralize the acid.

Before the bleached wood can be finished, the acid present in the wood must be neutralized. Neutralization is accomplished by flooding the wood with a mixture of water and borax powder to neutralize the effects of the acid. The borax in water serves as a basic solution capable of neutralizing the effects of the acid. Alternatively, baking soda can be used in place of borax.

To prepare the borax solution, mix two tablespoons of borax powder with a quart of water and apply liberally to the entire surface of the wood. To ensure complete neutralization of the acid, repeat the process up to three times.

Step 5: Rinse and check for residue.

After the solution dries, proceed to rinsing with water. The rinsing process can be repeated as often as you like. When the surface is completely dry after rinsing, run a dark-colored rag over the surface of the dried wood. If there is residue on the cloth, rinse again with water. Continue doing this until there is no residue left in the rag when you walk on the wood surface.

Step Six: Sand the Wood.

After the wood is completely dry, some grains may appear rough. To even out the grit and give them a finer appearance, sand them with 120 grit sandpaper and finish with 220 grit sandpaper for a smooth effect.

What Exactly Is Oxalic Acid (And How Does It Work)

Now that you know how to use it to bleach wood, it would be helpful to understand what exactly oxalic acid is. Normally, oxalic acid is packaged in a crystalline form that needs to be dissolved in hot water before use. When dissolved in hot water, oxalic acid is fully activated.

Chemically, it is known as ethanedioic acid, a compound naturally found in certain plants. When oxalic acid is processed in its natural form, it becomes inorganic and toxic. This form of oxalic acid is famous for bleaching wood and is commercially available for other uses.

When wood is exposed to water or metal for a long period of time, blotchy marks and stains begin to appear on the wood. These mottled spots are called iron oxide spots. They are formed by the reaction between the tannin present in the wood and traces of iron oxide from metals or water.

Iron oxide stains alone are responsible for most stains in wood. Other stains can be caused by heat stains, inks, dyes, etc.

Oxalic acid has been shown to produce amazing results in wood restoration. It is a preferred bleach as it removes all types of stains without changing the color of the wood.

Tips for bleaching wood with oxalic acid

If safety precautions are observed; Oxalic acid is one of the safest bleaches available. When bleaching with oxalic acid, there are a few tips to keep in mind.

Always clean the wood before bleaching: Before bleaching wood, it should be thoroughly wiped down with a cloth and a suitable wood cleaner. Cleaning the wood ensures that the bleach penetrates the wood without being impeded by surface coatings such as paint and wax.

Do not mix oxalic acid with other bleaches or chemicals: When oxalic acid is mixed with other bleaches or chemicals, it can react and produce toxic compounds or gases that are harmful to your health.

Do not mix oxalic acid in a metal container: When oxalic acid is mixed in a metal container, it will corrode the metal and cause the solution to spill onto other surfaces. Oxalic acid should be mixed in a ceramic or glass container.

Always use protective gear: oxalic acid is a strong acid; Therefore, contact with any part of the body can be toxic. Protective equipment such as rubber gloves and eye goggles should be worn before handling the acid. It is also safer and wiser to wear a long-sleeved shirt and long pants while working as this reduces the possibility of direct skin contact.

Also, since oxalic acid is in crystalline/powder form, it can be easily inhaled during handling. Exposure to dust can cause bleeding in the tabs. To avoid this, wear a dust mask when handling the powder.

Do not pre-mix oxalic acid: Oxalic acid is more effective when mixed and applied to wood immediately. When mixed in advance, oxalic acid tends to become weak and less effective.

Work in a well-ventilated area: Because oxalic acid is a strong chemical, it is safer to work in a large and well-ventilated area. The space should be large enough to allow for easy movement while you work.

Alternatives to wood bleaching

If you want to avoid the stress of bleaching wood, you can use other methods to remove stains and restore an old piece of furniture or wood.

For really stubborn stains

White Vinegar and Baking Soda: Add a few drops of white vinegar to baking soda and mix until it forms a paste-like consistency. Rub the mixture onto the stain and wipe off with a damp cloth. This mixture is effective for removing dye and other similar stains. Sandpaper: Stains that appear bleach resistant can be sanded. Carefully sand away the stain and its surroundings with fine sandpaper. If necessary, sand down the entire area to keep the color even. Isopropyl alcohol: Isopropyl alcohol is effective for removing stains like pen and ink. Using an old, clean cloth, rub the surface with isopropyl alcohol and wipe thoroughly. Once the stain is gone, clean the wood with a damp, soapy cloth and allow the surface to dry.

For less stubborn stains

Petroleum jelly: Apply petroleum jelly to the watermarks and leave overnight before wiping them off. Baking Soda and Non-Gel Toothpaste: For heat stains on wood, combine non-gel toothpaste and baking soda. Use a cloth to rub the resulting paste onto the wood until it is warm to the touch before wiping it off. Repeat the process until you are sure the stain is completely gone. Smooth the wood with oil or polish afterwards.

Other Uses of Oxalic Acid

Oxalic acid is a household chemical used for various purposes. Aside from being a wood bleaching agent, oxalic acid has other important domestic and commercial uses. Some of them are;

For rust removers: Oxalic acid is an important ingredient in many commercial rust removers. It is used to remove rust from pipes, sinks, metals, etc.

It is a bleach for straw hats, stones, leather.

It is used as a laundry rinse and limescale remover.

It is used to remove paint and varnish.

It is used as a mordant in the manufacture of textiles. it is also used in the manufacture of ink.

It is used as a mild hydrolyzing agent in the manufacture of dyes.

Final Thoughts

Oxalic acid is great for bleaching and removing stains from your wood. It’s not too expensive and if done right, gets the job done very well. We hope that you learned something new from today’s article. If you want to read more useful woodworking guides, browse our site a little further.

clothing/fabrics

Rust stains can be very difficult to remove. Do not use chlorine bleach on rust. Chlorine bleach fixes these stains. If the color fastness of the garment is in question, test the following rust removal products on an inconspicuous area first.

Sprinkle salt on the stain, squeeze lemon juice on it and spread in the sun to dry. Rinse thoroughly. Repeat if necessary. When it is safe to boil the fabric (generally some cotton and linen fabrics), boil the stained item in a solution containing 4 teaspoons of cream of tartar to 1 pint of water. Cook until stain is removed. Rinse thoroughly. Gently apply a commercially available rust remover and follow the manufacturer’s instructions. If necessary, repeat the process. Rust removers are commonly available at home appliance and hardware stores.

NOTE: For rusty stains on a load of white items, add laundry detergent and a cup of oxygen bleach and soak clothes for 10-15 minutes. To wash. A commercial paint remover (available at grocery and drug stores) can also be used. For specialty fabrics (washable silk, washable wool, suede-like and silk-like fabrics) see index.

DANGER:

Always read the care label before attempting any stain removal method. Do not use any product or process prohibited by the care label.

Always use caution when using a commercial product or combination of cleaning products.

Always test any cleaning product on an inconspicuous area first to determine color fastness.

Be sure to store and dispose of product/cans/containers as recommended. Keep out of reach of children.

Ensure adequate ventilation when using caustic or commercial cleaning solutions.

carpet

Mixed fibers, fur, hemp, jute, natural fibers, synthetic fibers, wool

Mix a solution of 1 tablespoon of oxalic acid and 1 cup of warm water. Apply the solution with a toothbrush and gently agitate. If stain persists, allow to dry and repeat method 1. If the stain remains, try a commercial rust/iron remover.

DANGER:

Always test any cleaning product on an inconspicuous area first to determine color fastness.

Always use caution when using a commercial product or combination of cleaning products.

Be sure to store and dispose of product/cans/containers as recommended. Keep out of reach of children.

Ensure adequate ventilation when using caustic, toxic, aromatic, or flammable cleaning solutions.

Oxalic acid is toxic. do not touch skin. wear rubber gloves.

Hard surface floors

brick, concrete, stone/masonry (except marble)

Make a paste by combining 7 parts lint-free glycerin, 1 part sodium citrate crystals (available at drugstores), 6 parts lukewarm water, and enough whiting to make a thick paste. Apply this paste to the stain and let it harden. Remove with a wooden scraper and repeat if necessary. Wash area thoroughly with clean water and allow to dry.

NOTE: The paste can remain on the stain for several days if needed.

DANGER:

Always use caution when using a commercial product or combination of cleaning products.

Be sure to store and dispose of product/cans/containers as recommended. Keep out of reach of children.

Ensure adequate ventilation when using caustic, toxic, aromatic, or flammable cleaning solutions.

marble

Rust stains on marble floors are often caused by contact with ferrous (iron/steel) objects or steel wool. Always use coasters under flower pots, lamp bases or other items that may stain the marble surface. Rub with a mild detergent (e.g. baking soda) and a felt pad. Wash the area thoroughly with clean water and wipe dry. If the stain persists, make a paste of powdered white dust or chalk dust mixed with a commercial liquid rust remover. Apply the mixture to the stain and cover with plastic wrap and seal with tape. Leave for a few hours. Sponge off the mixture and buff the treated area. Rust stains may benefit from a follow-up treatment with a paste of powdered whiting or powdered chalk dust mixed with 6% hydrogen peroxide. Follow the same procedure as for paste method #2.

NOTE: Removing a rust stain from a marble surface can dull the surface. Wet the area with water and sprinkle with marble polishing powder (tin oxide). Rub with a thick, soft cloth or use an electric buffer.

DANGER:

Always use caution when using a commercial product or combination of cleaning products.

Be sure to store and dispose of product/cans/containers as recommended. Keep out of reach of children.

Ensure adequate ventilation when using caustic, toxic, aromatic, or flammable cleaning solutions.

Robust

Wipe the stain with a cloth or sponge dipped in warm, sudsy water. Rinse well and wipe dry. If a stain remains, use a commercially available rust remover suitable for resilient floors. Use according to package label directions.

DANGER:

Be careful not to spill commercial rust removers on porcelain or enamel surfaces (like those on kitchenware) as these products can mar the finish.

Always use caution when using a commercial product or combination of cleaning products.

Be sure to store and dispose of product/can!container as recommended. Keep out of reach of children.

Ensure adequate ventilation when using caustic, toxic, aromatic, or flammable cleaning solutions.

tile

Rust stains on ceramic tile floors come from iron in the water supply, which can only be permanently removed by installing an iron filter. Occasionally, caustic water will dissolve iron from rusting pipes or water pipes.

To treat fresh iron stains on ceramic tile, use a heavy-duty detergent such as Spic ‘n Span, which contains a large amount of trisodium phosphate (TSP). Apply the granular cleaner with a damp cloth or pad and rub the stained surface until the stain is removed. Rinse thoroughly, wipe dry and buff with a dry cloth. Heavy, stubborn rust stains can often be removed by applying oxalic acid stain remover compounds like Zud or a trichloromelamine compound like Bartender’s Friend. Follow the instructions very carefully. For rust stains already set on ceramide plastic tile, dissolve oxalic acid crystals in hot water and enough white powder or talcum powder to make a soft paste. Apply this poultice to the rust stain and let it dry before removing it. Rinse and polish thoroughly.

DANGER:

Oxalic acid is toxic. do not touch skin. wear rubber gloves.

Always use caution when using a commercial product or combination of cleaning products.

Be sure to store and dispose of products as recommended! Cans/Containers. Keep out of reach of children.

Ensure adequate ventilation when using caustic, toxic, aromatic, or flammable cleaning solutions.

furniture

cast, wrought iron

There are several methods to remove rust from metal surfaces. Rusting of ferrous metals (iron, steel) occurs in the presence of moisture. A coat of paint prevents rust.

It is desirable to remove the rust down to the bare metal. However, this is often difficult to achieve. Sometimes deep pitting occurs. Use a wire brush or brush attachment on an electric drill to remove as much rust as possible. Then sand down to bare metal with a medium grit silicon carbide paper. Finish with fine sandpaper or steel wool. Before painting, clean the surface with paint thinner and apply a rust resistant zinc chromate primer such as Rust-Oleum paint. It works well to prevent further oxidation and provide a finish coat. On hard-to-sand surfaces, brush off as much rust as possible, then apply a commercial gel-type rust remover as directed. “Navel jelly” is a type of chemical gel sold at hardware stores. Coat the rusted parts and follow the directions on the container. If necessary, repeat the process. When the surface is completely dry, paint with a rust resistant paint.

NOTE: There are chemical gels on the market that break down rust so it dries and hardens into a smooth protective base like a primer. The surface can then be painted. Read all labels and precautions carefully.

DANGER:

Always test any cleaning product on an inconspicuous area first to determine color fastness.

Always use caution when using a commercial product or combination of cleaning products.

Store and dispose of product/cans/containers as recommended. Keep out of reach of children.

Ensure adequate ventilation when using caustic, toxic, aromatic, or flammable cleaning solutions.

marble

Rust stains on marble floors are often caused by contact with ferrous (iron/steel) objects or steel wool. Always use coasters under flower pots, lamp bases or other items that may stain the marble surface.

Rub with a mild detergent (e.g. baking soda) and a felt pad. Wash the area thoroughly with clean water and wipe dry. If the stain persists, make a paste of powdered white dust and chalk mixed with a commercial liquid rust remover. Apply the mixture to the stain and cover with plastic wrap and seal with tape. Leave for a few hours. Sponge off the mixture and buff the treated area. Rust stains may benefit from a follow-up treatment of a paste of powdered whiting or powdered chalk dust mixed with 6 percent hydrogen peroxide. Proceed in the same way as with the paste in #2.

NOTE: Removing a rust stain from a marble surface can dull the surface. Wet the area with water and sprinkle with marble polishing powder (tin oxide). Rub with a thick, soft cloth or use an electric buffer.

DANGER:

Always test any cleaning product on an inconspicuous area first to determine color fastness.

Always use caution when using a commercial product or combination of cleaning products.

Be sure to store and dispose of product/cans/containers as recommended. Keep out of reach of children.

Ensure adequate ventilation when using caustic, toxic, aromatic, or flammable cleaning solutions.

Overwetting with water can cause the finish to migrate from the upholstery fabric, leaving a circle in the treated area.

upholstered furniture

leather

Iron and rust are chemical stains that should be treated by a professional cleaner. WALLS AND CEILINGS – PAPER (LEATHER, SUEDE) Iron and rust are chemical stains that should be treated by a professional cleaner.

walls and ceilings

tile (ceramic/plastic)

Rust stains on ceramic walls in the bathroom/kitchen/laundry room are mostly caused by iron in the water supply, which can only be permanently removed by installing an iron filter. Occasionally, caustic water will dissolve iron from rusting pipes or water pipes.

To treat fresh iron stains on bathroom/laundry tile walls, use a heavy duty cleaner such as Spic ‘n Span which is high in trisodium phosphate (TSP). Apply this granular cleaner with a damp cloth or pad and rub the stained surface until the stain is removed. Rinse thoroughly, wipe dry and buff with a dry cloth. Heavy, stubborn rust stains can often be removed by applying oxalic acid stain remover compounds like Zud or a trichloromelamine compound like Bartender’s Friend. Follow the instructions very carefully. For rust stains that have already settled on walls, dissolve oxalic acid crystals in hot water and enough white powder or talcum powder to make a soft paste. Apply this poultice to the rust stain and let it dry before removing it. Rinse and polish thoroughly. A paste made from borax and lemon juice helps with iron stains. Rub the paste into the stain and let it dry. Rinse with clear water, then repeat if necessary. Rinse again and dry with a clean cloth.

DANGER:

Oxalic acid is toxic. do not touch skin. wear rubber gloves.

Always use caution when using a commercial product or combination of cleaning products.

Be sure to store and dispose of product/cans/containers as recommended. Keep out of reach of children.

Ensure adequate ventilation when using caustic, toxic, aromatic, or flammable cleaning solutions.

Do not use pumice stone on the ceramic glass of cookware or ceramic hobs. It will scratch the surface.

metals

cast/wrought iron

There are several methods to remove rust from metal surfaces. Rusting of ferrous metals (iron, steel) occurs in the presence of moisture. A coat of paint prevents rust.

It is desirable to remove the rust down to the bare metal. However, this is often difficult to achieve. Sometimes deep pitting occurs. Use a wire brush or brush attachment on an electric drill to remove as much rust as possible. Then sand down to bare metal with a medium grit silicon carbide paper. Finish with fine sandpaper or steel wool. Before painting, clean the surface with paint thinner and apply a rust resistant zinc chromate primer such as Rust-Oleum paint. It works well to prevent further oxidation and provide a finish coat. On hard-to-sand surfaces, brush off as much rust as possible, then apply a commercial gel-type rust remover as directed. Naval Jelly is a type of chemical gel sold at hardware stores. Coat rusty parts and leave for at least 24 hours, then wash with warm water. If necessary, repeat the process. When the surface is completely dry, paint it with a rust resistant paint.

NOTE: There are chemical gels on the market that break down rust so it dries and hardens into a smooth protective base like a primer. The surface can then be painted. Read all labels and precautions carefully.

DANGER:

Always use caution when using a commercial product or combination of cleaning products.

Store and dispose of product containers as recommended. Keep ours out of the reach of children.

Ensure adequate ventilation when using caustic, toxic, aromatic, or flammable cleaning solutions.

Stainless steel

Rub the rust spot with a damp piece of very fine sandpaper (can be purchased at hardware stores, graded from coarse to fine), then rub the area with a slice of onion. Rinse well with hot water and dry thoroughly with a soft cloth.

exterior surfaces

foundations

brick

Brown stains on masonry surfaces are caused by the presence of soluble manganese or iron oxides. Often these stains are caused by improper use of hydrochloric acid or compounds containing hydrochloric acid.

Light stains can be easily removed with Brick Klenz. If the stains are new and light, mix 1 pound of oxalic acid in 1 gallon of water. Scrub with a stiff-bristled brush. Many brown stains can be removed with Sure Klean Iron Stain Remover. Follow the directions for use on the label. When brown stains are severe, dark, and old, they can usually be successfully removed by mixing 1 part peracetic acid and 4 parts water. Brush or spray on the stained area. Allow to stand for a few minutes (until the reaction is complete) before rinsing the area thoroughly with a hose. Allow the wall area to dry for 12.24 hours, then brush or spray a solution of 1 part Brick Klenz to 4 parts water onto the wall. Don’t rinse off. This solution serves as the “neutralizing” material.

NOTE: The above commercial products can be purchased from a building supply company or local brick factory.

DANGER:

Oxalic acid is toxic. Avoid contact with skin. wear rubber gloves.

Peracetic acid is a hazardous textile chemical sold by some textile chemical suppliers. If proper precautions are observed, the user should not be injured. Workers should protect their eyes, hands, etc. and avoid breathing the fumes when using peracetic acid.

Particular care should be taken when handling the container. Be sure to store and dispose of product/cans/containers as recommended. Keep out of reach of children.

Always use caution when using a commercial product or combination of cleaning products.

Porches, Decks, Patios:

brick

Brown stains on masonry surfaces are caused by the presence of soluble manganese or iron oxides. Often these stains are caused by improper use of hydrochloric acid or compounds containing hydrochloric acid.

Light stains can be easily removed with Brick Klenz. If the stains are new and light, mix 1 pound of oxalic acid in 1 gallon of water. Scrub with a stiff-bristled brush. Many brown stains can be removed with Sure Klean Iron Stain Remover. Follow the directions for use on the label. When brown stains are severe, dark, and old, they can usually be successfully removed by mixing 1 part peracetic acid and 4 parts water. Brush or spray on the stained area. Leave on for a few minutes (until the reaction is complete) before rinsing the area thoroughly with a hose. Allow the surface to dry for 12-24 hours, then brush or spray a solution of 1 part Brick Klenz to 4 parts water onto the surface. Don’t rinse off. This solution serves as the “neutralizing” material.

NOTE: The above commercial products can be purchased from a building supply company or local brick factory.

DANGER:

Oxalic acid is toxic. Avoid contact with skin. wear rubber gloves.

Peracetic acid is a hazardous textile chemical sold by some textile chemical suppliers. If proper precautions are observed, the user should not be injured. Workers should protect their eyes, hands, etc. and avoid breathing the fumes when using peracetic acid.

Particular care should be taken when handling the container. Be sure to store and dispose of product/cans/containers as recommended. Keep out of reach of children.

Always use caution when using a commercial product or combination of cleaning products.

wood (stained)

Mix together 1 part sodium citrate, 6 parts water, and 7 parts glycerin. Mix this with Whiting to form a thick paste. Spread on spot until completely dry. scrape off. Repeat as needed.

DANGER:

Always use caution when using a commercial product or combination of cleaning products.

Be sure to store and dispose of product/cans/containers as recommended. Keep out of reach of children.

siding/walls

brick, brick veneer

Brown stains on masonry surfaces are caused by the presence of soluble manganese or iron oxides. Often these stains are caused by improper use of hydrochloric acid or compounds containing hydrochloric acid.

Light stains can be easily removed with Brick Klenz. If the stains are new and light, mix 1 pound of oxalic acid in 1 gallon of water. Scrub with a stiff-bristled brush. Many brown stains can be removed with Sure Klean Iron Stain Remover. Follow the directions for use on the label. When brown stains are severe, dark, and old, they can usually be successfully removed by mixing 1 part peracetic acid and 4 parts water. Brush or spray on the stained area. Allow to stand for a few minutes (until the reaction is complete) before rinsing the area thoroughly with a hose. Allow the wall area to dry for 12-24 hours, then brush or spray a solution of 1 part Brick Klenz and 4 parts water onto the wall. Don’t rinse off. This solution serves as the “neutralizing” material.

NOTE: The above commercial products can be purchased from a building supply company or local brick factory.

DANGER:

Oxalic acid is toxic. Avoid contact with skin. wear rubber gloves.

Peracetic acid is a hazardous textile chemical sold by some textile chemical suppliers. If proper precautions are observed, the user should not be injured. Workers should protect their eyes, hands, etc. and avoid breathing the fumes when using peracetic acid.

Particular care should be taken when handling the container. Be sure to store and dispose of product/cans/containers as recommended. Keep out of reach of children.

Always use caution when using a commercial product or combination of cleaning products.

Piece

Dissolve 1 part sodium citrate in 6 parts water and 6 parts glycerin. Make a paste by mixing some of this liquid with powdered whiting. Spread this in a thick layer on the stain. Once dry, either moisten the existing layer with the remaining liquid or replace with fresh paste. It usually takes about a week to remove a rust stain.

DANGER:

Always use caution when using a commercial product or combination of cleaning products.

Be sure to store and dispose of product/can!container as recommended. Keep out of reach of children.

WOOD (STAINED, SHINGLES, SHAKES)

Mix together 1 part sodium citrate, 6 parts water, and 7 parts glycerin. Mix this with Whiting to form a thick paste. Spread on spot until completely dry. scrape off. Repeat as needed.

DANGER:

Always use caution when using a commercial product or combination of cleaning products.

Be sure to store and dispose of product/can!container as recommended. Keep out of reach of children.

Miscellaneous/Exterior

Awnings, gutters, cover plates, fittings (metal)

There are several methods to remove rust from metal surfaces. Rusting of ferrous metals (iron, steel) occurs in the presence of moisture. A coat of paint prevents rust.

It is desirable to remove the rust down to the bare metal. However, this is often difficult to achieve. Sometimes deep pitting occurs. Use a wire brush or brush attachment on an electric drill to remove as much rust as possible. Then sand down to bare metal with a medium grit silicon carbide paper. Finish with fine sandpaper or steel wool. Before painting, clean the surface with paint thinner and apply a rust resistant zinc chromate primer. Rust-Oleum paint works well to prevent further oxidation and provide a finish coat. On hard-to-sand surfaces, brush off as much rust as possible, then apply a commercial gel-type rust remover as directed. Naval Jelly is a type of chemical gel sold at hardware stores. Coat the rusted parts and leave for at least 24 hours, then wash with warm water. If necessary, repeat the process. When the surface is completely dry, paint it with a rust resistant paint.

NOTE: There are chemical gels on the market that break down rust so it dries and hardens into a smooth protective base like a primer. The surface can then be painted. Read all labels and precautions carefully.

DANGER:

Leafy greens, legumes, and most other plant-based foods contain a nutrient called oxalate, or oxalic acid. It’s a naturally occurring chemical that you get through your diet. The body also produces it as waste. Foods high in oxalates also contain other nutrients your body needs for good health.

When oxalic acid mixes with other minerals, it forms oxalate. People regularly use the two terms interchangeably to refer to the same thing. Your body produces oxalate and also gets it from food sources. Vitamin C converts to oxalate as your body processes it.

When you eat foods containing oxalate, the compound binds to minerals to make other minerals. These include iron oxalate and calcium oxalate. The process takes place most of the time in the colon and sometimes in the kidneys.

The body then removes the elements through stool or urine. In people with high sensitivities, a diet high in oxalates can cause kidney stones. They also increase their risk of other health problems.

kidney stone formation. It is normal for calcium and small amounts of oxalate to be in the urinary tract at the same time. If they remain in their individual form, they do not cause any health problems. Sometimes they dissolve and mix into crystals. These stones can cause problems in some people, especially when oxalate levels are high and urine levels are low. In their small form, you might not even realize they exist. The problem is when they combine into larger stones.

In this case, nausea, severe pain, and blood in the urine occur as the stones move through the urinary tract. Most kidney stones contain a lot of calcium oxalate. This explains why your doctor may advise you to avoid foods high in oxalates if you have kidney stones.

Advances in research show that restricting foods high in oxalates may no longer be practical. Most of these foods contain healthy nutrients that the body needs. Also, much of the oxalate in urine comes from the body and not from the diet. Doctors now recommend a strict low-oxalate diet of less than 50 milligrams for people with high levels of oxalate in their urine.

In the past I haven’t really bothered to clean the outside of KS other than a hose and the occasional bit of dish soap. But she’s looking particularly scruffy at the moment, so I think a little more conscious effort on the deck might be in order.

It’s fiberglass with a non-slip pattern, so I hear oxalic acid is the stuff for removing stains and general dirt. I can see packs of it as a powder on eBay for a few pounds and I suppose I can just mix it with water in a bucket, slosh it onto the decks, brush a bit and then rinse it off.

But – in what proportions should it be mixed for this type of job?

With that mix – how bad is it? (sandals / boots / long pants and sleeves / space suit ?)

Likely to damage other materials normally found on deck? How about painted wood, which I have quite a bit of?

I’ve searched the forum for the mixing ratios but haven’t found anything – so any advice is welcome.

Peter