Stucco Wall Detail Drawings? The 7 Latest Answer

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What is stucco in architecture?

Stucco or render is a construction material made of aggregates, a binder, and water. Stucco is applied wet and hardens to a very dense solid. It is used as a decorative coating for walls and ceilings, exterior walls, and as a sculptural and artistic material in architecture.

What is stucco wall?

Traditional masonry stucco is a cement-based plaster that is applied over walls and other surfaces inside and outside of buildings. It is made from cement, sand, and lime and hardens into a highly durable material that requires little maintenance.

How thick is a stucco wall?

The correct thickness is then 5/8 inch. Two-coat applications are only for use over solid plaster bases without metal lath. For unit masonry, that thickness is ½ inch. For cast-in-place or precast concrete, the thickness for two-coat work is 3/8 inch.

What are the three layers of stucco called?

What is Three Coat Stucco? Three coat is the original stucco process, consisting of paper and wire, a scratch coat, a brown coat, and a finish, or “top” coat. In industry terms — lath, scratch and brown.

Stucco Frequently Asked Questions

Stucco provides a durable, low-maintenance surface that adds a lot of character to a home. It can be applied in either one or three coats, but there is some confusion about the methods. Let’s take a look at each technique and the benefits each has to offer:

What is three-layer stucco?

Three coats is the original stucco process, consisting of paper and wire, a scratch coat, a brown coat, and a finish or “top” coat. In terms of industry – slat, scratch and brown. The final coating is not considered a step as it is required for any type of application, so they mainly refer to the phases up to the final coating.

More specifically, a strip of asphalt-loaded paper is applied over a weather-resistant barrier. Then a layer of furry chicken wire (which sticks out a bit from the wall) is applied. Next comes the scratch coat, a base coat of field-mixed Portland cement, sand, lime, and water with a series of horizontal lines scratched into it. Then comes the brown coat. This coat is applied with a darby or long trowel to ensure the cement is applied evenly. Finally, a top layer is applied with a squeegee and trowel, which can be applied in different structures. These coats are available in a range of colors so no additional painting is required.

The great advantage of three-layer stucco is its strength and durability. Because it is twice as thick as a layer, it better withstands wear and tear. The two disadvantages are time and cost. It can take weeks for each coat to be applied and cured. As a result, the additional materials and labor make the three-layer option more expensive than the single-layer option.

What is One Coat Stucco and what is the benefit?

The term monolayer stucco refers to a mixture of Portland cement, sand, fibers, special proprietary chemicals, and water. This method speeds up the three-layer stucco process by combining the scratch and brown layers in a single application ranging from 3/8″ to 1/2″ thick. It is typically installed over rigid foam board and battens to provide a continuous insulated durable cladding as required by the Energy Code.

However, the term “single coat” is a misnomer as the first iteration mixed the colored top coat into the mix. Unfortunately this resulted in uneven color and fibers showing in the top layer so the two layer method was adjusted.

The one-layer process is enjoying growing popularity due to the speed and cost advantages. Compared to three coats, one coat saves money as it takes about half the time to apply, resulting in faster job completion, reduced labor costs, low maintenance and a better life cycle cost ratio. Yet, One Coat Stucco offers the same benefits you’d expect from three-layer stucco…durability, design flexibility, and fire resistance. The downside is that the thinner depth makes it more prone to damage.

Common problems with stucco and home construction

Stucco is actually a porous material and is intended to allow water to be absorbed. House wrap or hydrophobic barrier acts as a drainage layer, and as the stucco dries, water will flow down the construction board and seep out the bottom of the stucco. As long as the sheathing remains dry and water does not become lodged in the wall cavity, problems are rare. But… they still happen.

It is important that high performing builders and contractors are aware of these issues as they are much less forgiving when water enters the system. For example using household foil as a water repellent barrier (WRB). House film is primarily an air barrier with water repellent properties. Due to changes in building codes mandating the use of WRBs, contractors should be aware that for proper function there must be a gap between the stucco and the WRB to allow water to dry out. If this is not followed as best practice, water can become trapped and damage the entire wall assembly, not only leading to the growth of black mold but also compromising the structural integrity of the building.

In addition, improper window trim continues to be a problem since stucco paneling is most susceptible to excessive amounts of water entering the wall assembly at window trim and eaves.

How is tape used in stucco applications?

You may not know that masking tape is an important tool used in the application of exterior stucco. Stucco composite can damage windows and frames if accidentally comes into contact with it during application. Contractors therefore ensure they are masked off with tape specially designed to provide a strong hold against plaster and to withstand intense sunlight and fluctuating temperatures. It’s also important that the tape be able to hold heavy plastic sheeting used to keep windows and other surfaces clean and protected while stucco is applied. In addition, tape is used to create a watertight seal to protect surfaces that should not get wet, as discussed in the Common Issues section. (Also, one of the steps in applying stucco is to apply a light spray of water to the stucco surface to aid in curing!)

So why use specialty stucco tape instead of something more generic? It all comes down to choosing the right tool for the job. Stucco work requires tapes specifically designed to withstand the weight of plaster; stick to multiple surfaces, not just concrete and wood; and leaves no residue when removed 7, 10 or even 60 days later. That means it must withstand a variety of elements, including sun, rain, wind, and even extreme temperatures, before it can be removed cleanly.

Consider these related posts for more stucco info:

If you are involved in stucco work, be sure to choose tape that is designed for stucco purposes to ensure a clean, quality job. Check out ECHOtape’s stucco masking solutions here. And if you have any questions about stucco tape or any of our other pressure-sensitive adhesive tapes, please contact us. We have been passionate about helping professionals with their tough problems for more than 40 years!

What is the main problem with stucco?

When a home’s stucco doesn’t have the necessary space or is below the grade, it can trap water and moisture leading to the formation of mold, rotting, cracking, and crumbling. Additionally, the stucco will begin to soak up even more moisture from the ground.

Stucco Frequently Asked Questions

Stucco failure warning sign

There are a number of warning signs that can indicate stucco failure. If you notice any of the following common plaster problems with your home, you should call a plasterer right away.

Persistent water spots, stains and discoloration

While stucco is designed to naturally retain some moisture, permanent water stains on the exterior of your stucco home can indicate serious problems. Stucco water stains, commonly referred to as spots, can be seen as either white, cloudy streaks or dark spots in color. Left untreated, trapped moisture can lead to the formation of black mold, rotting wood and compromising the structural integrity of your home. Often this is caused by poorly installed or missing flashing.

As a homeowner, you should pay particular attention to the areas around your doors and windows. They are typically the most common problem areas for stucco homes. However, stains can appear anywhere. While permanent water stains don’t always indicate problems with your stucco, it’s in your best interest to call a professional if you notice one on your home.

cracking in your piece

Stucco houses can crack over time for a variety of reasons. Land shifts, improper mix ratios, and poor workmanship are some potential causes of cracks in your home. Not only does this look bad, but cracks that go deeper than the surface can cause significant problems for your home.

Unfortunately, the cracking is not a singular problem. Most often, stucco cracks propagate as the house foundation settles. Cracks smaller than 1/16 inch are common and usually not a cause for concern provided you fix them in a timely manner. However, larger cracks can allow water to become trapped and lead to problems like the ones mentioned above. While you may be tempted to just fix the cracks, all that really helps is a temporary fix. If the cracks are deep enough, there’s a good chance water has already seeped through.

Expand below the class

This has less to do with the actual stucco and more to do with improper building practice. Stucco that extends underground can cause significant problems for your home. When we say “below the level” we are referring to the stucco applied below where the foundation of the house meets the ground. There must be at least two inches of space for the stucco to drain properly. When a home’s stucco does not have the required space or is below grade, it can trap water and moisture, leading to the formation of mold, rot, cracking, and crumbling. In addition, the stucco absorbs even more moisture from the floor.

Unfortunately, unless you’re a detail advocate or a home inspector, you probably have no reason to check your home for it. Unlicensed contractors and shoddy building practices have plagued southeastern Pennsylvania for years. If you are concerned that your home’s stucco is substandard, it is best to contact a professional immediately.

Caulking and other water-repellent sealants

Caulk is a material used to seal joints, seams and cracks against leakage. It is commonly found on the trim of the doors and windows of your home. When the caulk has dried out, shriveled, or appeared to be missing altogether, your home can become vulnerable to water infiltration, leading to many of the problems previously mentioned.

However, doors and windows aren’t the only areas you need to be aware of. Many stucco home owners will have trouble with exterior features such as lights, decks, and other objects that protrude from a home. It is important for homeowners to monitor these areas to ensure sealers are in good condition to protect them from the elements.

What material is used behind stucco?

Traditional stucco is made from a mixture of Portland cement, fine sand, water, and hydrated lime. In addition, it may contain acrylic or glass fiber additives that improve its strength and flexibility.

Stucco Frequently Asked Questions

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Expert advice on stucco paneling including pros and cons with helpful diagram and photos of stucco wall construction.

Stucco is a plaster-like siding popular as a siding material for many styles of homes, from Southwestern and European styles to contemporary.

Because stucco is essentially concrete, it has several significant advantages over cladding materials such as wood. First, it’s tough and durable – with proper maintenance, it will last 50 years or more. And it’s seamless, so the weather doesn’t have cracks and crevices to penetrate. Because it is a form of masonry, it is not susceptible to damage from fire, rot, or insects, and is good at insulating sound.

On the other hand, stucco can be brittle and as a result can crack when the house is set or during earthquakes. However, stucco is now formulated with epoxy, making it more elastic and therefore less prone to breakage. If it cracks, it can be repaired as per How to Fix Stucco article.

Another disadvantage is that in extremely rainy regions, water can seep into the stucco and eventually penetrate walls. With any stucco installation, proper masking is an absolute must to prevent damage to the interior of the wall. The application must ensure that water penetrating through the material is properly drained.

Check what local contractors recommend before painting stucco. If painting is an option, choose a 100 percent acrylic latex paint specifically formulated for plaster surfaces. See also How to Paint Stucco.

Traditional stucco construction

Traditional stucco is made from a mixture of Portland cement, fine sand, water and hydrated lime. Also, it may contain acrylic or fiberglass additives that improve its strength and flexibility.

It is applied wet in three coats: a base coat called the “scratch coat”, a second “brown coat” and a final “top coat”.

After applying the first layer, a notched trowel is used to “scratch” the surface with horizontal grooves so that the next brown layer has some grip. Then comes the brown coat and finally the top coat.

Before each subsequent coat is applied, the previous one is allowed to dry—usually a day or two before applying the brown coat and a week or two before applying the top coat. In hot weather, each coat is regularly lightly sprayed with water to allow it to cure slowly and evenly – drying too quickly will weaken it. And the last layer may crack due to shrinkage if not hardened slowly.

Stucco is applied to a wire mesh base that holds it in place and helps prevent cracking. The diagram above shows how an older stucco wall is built – note how this differs from the newer construction shown in the photos below. In the older style, a chicken-wire-like mesh called “stucco netting” is fastened over horizontal wooden lath spacers to allow the stucco to squeeze and grab into pockets.

In newer stucco construction, a much heavier, three-dimensional wire lath is nailed, screwed, or stapled directly to the studs under the base of the weather barrier and sheathing. Contemporary forms of wire slats include woven wire slats, welded wire slats, and expanded metal slats.

Because stucco is porous, the substrate—usually plywood or OSB—must have at least one layer of weather-resistant, vapor-permeable, asphalt-impregnated building paper (“felt”) or plastic-based building envelope or stucco envelope. This barrier must repel weather and water but allow vapor to escape. In many cases two coats are used as the stucco will stick to the top coat making it less effective. A “weep screed” at the foundation line allows water to drain away.

The first two coats can be troweled or sprayed onto the wall. The final coat is typically applied to the surface and given one of many possible textures, from smooth to sandy or irregular.

Instead of painting stucco, pigment is usually mixed into the final layer. A popular option is to use an acrylic based finish as the final coat. Because acrylic surfaces are resilient, they are much less likely to crack and also help minimize moisture penetration into the stucco.

Stucco can also be applied to properly primed solid masonry surfaces such as cinder block, brick, or older stucco. However, to ensure adhesion, it should not be applied to a painted surface without first sandblasting.

Thin-layer stucco systems

Modern synthetic stucco can be applied as a base coat and a top coat that is thinner and has a shorter application life than traditional stucco – closer to a week than two.

The basis for this system is similar to that described above: wire mesh over weather-resistant, vapor-permeable construction paper. However, the composition of the material is different. Mixed with just water and sand, the base coat contains chopped fiberglass and acrylic polymers to make it stronger.

The final coating is typically a colored elastomeric formula mixed with a fine aggregate. The result is a smooth, water-resistant surface that is less prone to cracking than ordinary stucco. It usually looks a bit more uniform in color as well.

One downside is that since it’s thinner than traditional stucco, it’s more easily damaged. Another reason is that it takes longer to dry when it’s soaked. Last but not least, these systems are proprietary and must be used exactly to specification or the warranty may be void.

External Insulation and Finishing Systems (EIFS)

Known to professionals as EIFS, short for Exterior Insulation and Finishing System, this form of synthetic stucco differs from traditional stucco. With ETICS, the panels are covered with an acrylic coating that looks like plaster. The panels can be foam or fiber cement board siding (foam has much higher insulation values). The polymers are generally sprayed onto the panels.

ETICS systems have a reputation for having moisture-related problems, mainly due to improper application. Basically, water can get trapped in the walls and cause rot and mold if it is not properly secured by a membrane, connector and proper drainage system. Before you decide on an ETICS system, do your homework! Professional and quality installation is imperative.

cost of stucco

Stucco is not as expensive as high quality cedar siding, but costs significantly more than vinyl or fiber cement siding. The only way to really determine the cost is to get an estimate, but expect it will likely cost between $6 and $11 per square foot for materials and labor.

Featured Resource: Find a pre-vetted local plasterwork contractor

Where is stucco commonly used?

Although it can be found nationwide, it is most popular in the Southwest region of the United States because of its desert-like climate. In fact, 50-60% of houses in this region are made using stucco. * It is also commonly used in the states of Texas and Florida.

Stucco Frequently Asked Questions

Stucco is a popular choice for residential and commercial siding that has advantages over other material options, especially for certain regions. Although found nationwide, its desert-like climate makes it most popular in the southwestern United States. In fact, 50-60% of homes in this region are made with stucco.* Stucco is also commonly used in the states of Texas and Florida.

An advantage of stucco, especially for the Southwest region, has to do with the components of stucco. It consists of a mixture of sand, lime, cement and water. These materials are plentiful in this area, making them inexpensive and easy to manufacture.

A hot, dry, and desert-like climate creates a perfect environment for stucco work, as stucco work does not fare well in prolonged heavy rainfall or excessive humidity. However, stucco is fire resistant, which helps provide an extra level of security to protect home and building owners in dry, fire-prone regions.

Although deserts are known for their extremely hot temperatures, it can also get very cold at night and in winter, making heating and air costs high year-round. Stucco is energy efficient and provides insulation to the building or home, helping to reduce these costs.

In addition to the practical reasons for its use, stucco lends buildings an aesthetic style that is popular and characteristic of many areas of the Southwest. Stucco can even be tinted to dry a specific color – allowing homeowners to customize it to a unique shade.

Proper stucco application requires stucco masking tape that can withstand the roughness of the work. Learn more about tapes used in plaster applications at Shurtape.com.

Is stucco the same as plaster?

Stucco is a rougher texture and plaster is a smoother texture. The ingredients in both stucco and plaster are pretty much the same — lime, clay or cement, water, and sand (with many possible additives).

Stucco Frequently Asked Questions

Beyond Beauty: Plaster and Stucco are Natural Winners for Sustainable Walls:

Many people love plaster and stucco as sustainable building finishes because they look beautiful. But the benefits of a plaster and/or stucco for walls instead of paint go well beyond the exterior. The ingredients in these paints occur naturally and have been used in building plaster for thousands of years. The basic composition of both stucco and gypsum is water, sand and binder (typically lime, clay and/or cement). Traditional recipes and more and more modern systems use lime and/or clay instead of cement. Adding lime to a modern mix can improve its workability.

Advantage: vapor and moisture management

Perhaps one of the best advantages of plaster and stucco is that they are the best at absorbing and releasing steam and moisture. Breathable walls help protect the air quality in your home. They absorb pigment easily and are available in a range of colours. Both are fireproof and absorb noise, resulting in a quieter home. When stucco or plaster has a flaw, it can be difficult to get it done well and is best done by experienced professionals (especially exterior stucco and interior painting). It proceeds meticulously in two to three shifts and is labor intensive. The skill and labor required for a good application often make these finishes more expensive than other finishes.

Stucco vs Plaster, What’s the Difference?

In general, most people refer to stucco as a coating for the exterior of a building and plaster as a coating for interior walls, although plaster can be used both internally and externally. Stucco is a rougher texture and plaster is a smoother texture. The ingredients in stucco and plaster are pretty much the same – lime, clay or cement, water and sand (with many possible additives).

Natural lime plaster

Natural lime plaster is made from finely ground limestone, a sedimentary rock, that is fired in a kiln. Historically, the use of natural lime fell out of favor when Portland cement became popular in the 19th century. Natural lime is currently experiencing a resurgence. Portland cement is also made from limestone with clay and other mineral additives. It is also cooked in an oven at higher temperatures than lime.

Natural lime plasters tend to be more workable than cement plasters, are relatively hard surfaces, and have advantages. Lime offers the hardness of cement but is easier to repair, more carbon friendly, and more vapor permeable. Another advantage of the natural lime plaster is that the plaster application is much more forgiving than the stucco application. This makes it more accessible to homeowners.

Faswall can source premium Secil NHL for natural lime plaster

Shelterworks (Faswall’s parent company www.healthyshelterworks.com) brings the high quality Natural Hydraulic Lime or NHL (Secil brand) from Portugal to the United States. Secil is one of the leading European cement brands and offers excellent workability. NHL is an ideal stucco and plaster substrate for breathable Faswall walls. We recommend Limestrong Craft Plaster for finishing paint with its wide range of pigmented colours. Limestrong also offers a roster of plastering and stucco professionals and trains professionals and DIYers who want to invest in learning quality techniques.

As you can imagine, natural lime plaster is the same as natural lime plaster. The difference is that it is specifically formulated for external use in homes and other structures. Stucco and plaster of paris can be applied to many types of block and natural wall materials including faswall, cement blocks, thatch, adobe, adobe and more. Both have great advantages in maintaining vapor permeability.

Advantages of plastering walls

Whether the plaster is used indoors or outdoors, it has many advantages over modern drywall and other wall coatings.

Plaster and stucco are non-toxic

Unlike most paints, plaster does not contain VOCs or other toxic materials. Plaster and stucco are usually colored by adding pigments. When pigments are used, these are often natural. Even when cleaning interior walls, no harmful dust is generated.

durability

A properly mixed and applied plaster is stronger and more durable than drywall. Gypsum is also resistant to bumps and dents.

easy installation

Faswall walls can be finished directly with stucco or plaster on both sides. The success lies in the fact that Faswall is porous, which means that stucco or plaster adheres easily (more on that in the next section!). Applying natural lime plaster to Faswall requires no additional wall finishes, vapor barriers or other moisture control measures, meaning fewer toxins in your home. Plaster doesn’t need to be sanded, and it can be done quickly.

Insulation, Fireproof, Soundproofing

Interior plaster provides better insulation, fire resistance, and soundproofing than drywall. Because moisture vapor passes from your homes (aka breathability), it won’t harbor mold or mildew under most conditions. Builders hear the difference to houses with natural limestone interior walls and/or stucco walls on the outside and often notice how pleasantly quiet and sound-insulating a facade house with stucco and/or plaster is.

aesthetics and style

Plaster just “feels” good, which is hard to describe until you’ve actually been in a house with plaster or stucco walls. When you touch it, it’s harder, feels cooler, and is tougher than drywall. It is aesthetically pleasing in many ways and increases the resale value of your home as many people truly appreciate the skill that goes into quality plasterwork.

Use of stucco and plaster systems with Faswall

The mineral content of Faswall consists of cements and lime. If you use a lime or cement plaster or stucco on Faswall, it will chemically fuse with it. The crystals from the lime and cement plaster grow into the faswall and become a monolithic membrane, or in other words, they are chemically bound. This creates a durable and quality finish that increases the longevity and value of the home.

Other wall coverings are only applied to the surface – they are glued on or have some other type of mechanical connection, which makes them weaker. Plaster and stucco can be permanent wallcoverings in all climates – wet, dry, hot or cold.

When moisture moves through a plaster or stucco faced Faswall wall, the system allows the moisture to flow in and out without ‘getting stuck’ anywhere. This makes the walls resistant to mold, rot and fungus, regardless of humidity.

Because the vapor is absorbed by the faswall and then released, it can be felt almost like a vapor bench. Whether your weather is wet or dry, walls absorb and release moisture vapor, so you’re more likely to experience a constant state of even, stable relative humidity in your home. Different plasters have different abilities to absorb and release vapor and moisture, but generally they absorb and release them very evenly.

Do you have questions about your plaster or stucco finish for your Faswall project? Please contact us and we can talk about what works best for you.

What are the 2 types of stucco?

There are two main types of stucco: traditional and synthetic.
  • Traditional Stucco. Traditional stucco is comprised of sand, lime, and water. …
  • Synthetic Stucco. Unlike traditional stucco, synthetics does not use cement and lime. …
  • Float or Sand. …
  • Dash. …
  • Lace and Skip. …
  • English. …
  • Santa Barbara. …
  • Cat Face.

Stucco Frequently Asked Questions

Stucco is a popular choice for buildings around the world because it can be used to stylize facades and add a touch of allure and color. Stucco is commonly made from Portland cement plaster and can be applied to walls and other surfaces inside and outside buildings. The material is highly durable, fire retardant, requires little maintenance if installed correctly and can even be mixed to create different textures and finishes.

Are you someone considering stucco for the interior or exterior of your home? Knowing the different application systems and styles will help you when meeting with the contractor. You can also decide which optical finish best suits your home’s aesthetic.

Here is everything you need to know about various stucco works:

Different types of stucco

There are two main types of stucco: traditional and synthetic.

Traditional stucco

Traditional stucco consists of sand, lime and water. Nowadays stucco is mixed with cement. The addition of cement makes stucco much more durable. Lime, on the other hand, makes stucco easier to shape. Sometimes fiberglass and acrylic are added to traditional stucco to reinforce it and make it strong. Pure cement plaster is quite hard, and unless a stable grating, called a lath, is applied, the plaster will crack. Traditional stucco is distinguished for its versatility. The outside can be smoothed or roughened. With proper use and care, stucco can last around 50 years.

Synthetic stucco

Unlike traditional stucco, plastic does not use cement and lime. Instead, plastics use acrylic resin, which is resistant to water damage. Synthetic stucco dries evenly and quickly and can be applied to foam board instead of mesh. The acrylic resin also imparts movement to stucco, making it less prone to cracking and breaking.

Different stucco surfaces

Similar to stucco styles, there are finishes that can add more to the trim, all of which have pros and cons.

float or sand

The most common finish for commercial building stucco would be “float” or “sand”. This is a versatile finish that can be used on both traditional and synthetic stucco and is applied in a single coat. When the job needs to be done quickly, the Float/Sand finish is ideal as you only need that one coat for full coverage. It can also be sprayed on or applied with a trowel. Float or sand has coarse, fine, and medium speckles.

hyphen

Dash is sprayed on homes at a light, medium, or heavy volume. Dash is a unique look and can be modified with 1-3 layers. This type of finish is available for both traditional and synthetic surfaces and can be a great option for homeowners concerned about cracks.

Lace up and skip

When you envision a stucco finish on homes, it’s usually peak and crack. This type of execution is used in both commercial and residential buildings. Lace and Skip is rough. Imperfections are easy to hide due to the variations in texture. Tip and crack are either applied by hand or sprayed on and flattened with a trowel. First you apply the base coat, then you have the choice between a fine, medium or coarse pattern.

English

Looking to add a little aged sophistication to your home? Add this finish. The English finish is usually found on older buildings but is also sometimes used on newer construction. However, English can only be applied to traditional stucco.

Santa Barbara

Used only for traditional stucco applications, Santa Barbara uses fine sand particles to develop an adobe look. Colored sand can be used to create variations, but if you don’t want variations in the coating, you can paint Santa Barbara finishes. It’s also very smooth when finished, but this can result in very visible cracks.

cat face

The cat’s face features large areas with smoothed sections and evenly placed rough spots. The rough sections are called “inclusions” and vary in size and shape. Cat face is ideal both traditional and synthetic, and every homeowner can have it in their home. The best part is that your cat’s face finish can be completely different than your neighbor’s.

Smooth texture

Although a smooth texture is one of the most difficult finishes to achieve, it is becoming increasingly popular. The smooth texture can be colored, speckled, and customized to match the aesthetic of your home or office. Smooth surface finish works best with synthetic stucco, but can also be applied to fine traditional cement stucco.

worm

Also known as “plaster” and “swirl” finishes, worm was once popular but isn’t seen that often anymore. With large pieces of aggregate in the stucco, the trowel must be moved over the surface so that the aggregate leaves indentations in the stucco surface. Because of this, every home with a worm finish is different. However, it can be difficult to patch a worm when it cracks.

stucco application systems

1-layer Stucco Hard Coat System

A one-layer stucco system is sometimes referred to as a 2-layer system, which consists of a cement base. Foam is also applied.

3-layer stucco hard coat system

The common 3-coat system consists of a waterproof barrier, typically made from asphalt-fortified paper, then further layers of wire, a scratch and brown coat, and a top coat or primer. The cement primer is usually about 7/8 inch thick.

ETICS stucco systems

EIFS stands for “Exterior Insulation and Finish System”. These do not require hard layers and use thinner layers. ETICS assemblies were made to keep water out of the building. Hard coats, on the other hand, can absorb water.

Another type of ETICS would be those with an additional water management layer called a moisture or air barrier.

packaging

Stucco has numerous advantages, regardless of the type, surface and application system. Stucco siding reduces noise, is energy efficient and offers great versatility. Now that you know the different types of stucco and finishes available, you should be able to choose which type of stucco will work best for your home. Whatever type of style you want, there’s a piece for it.

Want to learn more about stucco paneling? Do you have questions about which type of stucco paneling is right for you? Fill out the contact form for more information!

What is inside of stucco?

The simplest explanation is as follows: stucco is for the exterior and plaster is for the interior.

Stucco Frequently Asked Questions

The age old question of plaster vs stucco and is there a difference? I mean, they’re basically made out of the same materials. We’re here to smash all the rumors and let you know there’s a difference. You may have read the snapshot of this discussion in our monthly newsletter, but we wanted to break it down for you.

The simplest explanation is as follows: stucco is for the exterior and plaster is for the interior. You might say now, “Hey, these are pretty much the same materials, I mean, you apply them the same way, don’t you?” And yes, we apply them with the same methods and techniques because that’s the best is working.

The differences:

Stucco is a Portland and lime based product. We sometimes mix fiberglass strands into the mud for added strength and support. The fiberglass acts as further structural support to ensure cracks stay out and chunks don’t fall off. To add fun texture, different types of sand are used in specific amounts to ensure you enjoy every inch of your home. Before applying it we used a layer of metal lath which is something like a really really thick chicken wire. This helps hold the stucco to the wall by giving it something to hold on to. We’ve mostly used this when applying stucco to a smooth surface. When it dries it’s rock hard. (Pun intended, since it’s a form of rock.) If you visit historic buildings that are hundreds of years old and look at what they’re made of, you’ll see that it’s stucco. Stuck will stand the test of time and Mother Nature, no matter how evil she may be. While there is no such thing as a zero maintenance building, it is low maintenance and will last as long as you want it to if you take care of it.

Plaster is a plaster based product that will look wonderful in your home or office. Although slightly softer than stucco, it will last for more years than you can count. Instead of metal laths, we use a finer mesh as the backbone for the plaster when patching. Like stucco, sometimes the mud just needs something to stick to. Of course, you can buy pre-made plaster from different stores and brands, but it’s like grandma’s cookies: store-bought cookies have nothing to do with grandma’s homemade slices of heaven! A good freshly mixed mud lasts a lot longer and is easier to work with than the canned stuff that dries up and cracks in a year or two.

The Similarities:

If you live in a busy neighborhood or want some peace and quiet in your office, plaster and stucco is the best building material for deadening noise. This works because once dry, the walls form a very tight seal that doesn’t let those annoying noise waves in. The downside to this is that cell phone signals sometimes have a weakened signal. Don’t worry, it’s not enough to make a difference. You can still use your smartphone to make calls, send text messages and surf the Internet.

Both can be applied to be smoother than glass or textured to your wildest dreams. Just let us know what you want! We have samples available if you need ideas. As for the colors, both can be painted to match an existing color or a brand new color. The mud can also be colored.

At the end of the day, mixing plaster and plaster is like cooking the perfect breakfast pancake or baking the best brownies to sell church cake, you have to mix the ingredients just right. Too much and the mud will become too runny and fall right off your house. Too much and you’re guaranteed cracks.

I apologize for all the food references. This was written just before lunch and I really want cookies…

Is stucco stronger than concrete?

Stucco will typically be used in vertical applications, such as for walls and borders. Concrete, on the other hand, is much tougher and heavier, and will typically be used to fill in cracks or act as a horizontal support.

Stucco Frequently Asked Questions

There are numerous ways to attractively decorate the interior or exterior of your home. Many people opt for a natural design and leave the building material (like brick or concrete) as the central design element. On the other hand, some may find that the aesthetic appeal of stucco works better on this plain concrete surface. So let’s look at the difference between stucco and concrete.

Piece

A wall with a stucco finish is said to be decorative because stucco has no support itself and is not intended to support the weight of the house. Typically, the material consists of a combination of an aggregate, water and a binder. Underneath the material there must be some other type of masonry-based structure, such as brick or wood or even cement. Typically, after the material is applied to the wall, it is given a coarse or rough finish.

concrete

Concrete, on the other hand, is an extremely strong and reliable material, made from a combination of cement and water, with additional stone aggregates added to the mix for strength. Typically, sand and gravel are used as the aggregate, although carefully measuring the water is the most important part of the process. Too much water weakens the cement’s strength, while too little prevents it from being easily shaped and applied.

Which one is better?

Although both materials can be applied to the surfaces of your home in an aesthetically pleasing way, one is better suited to the task than the other. Stucco is specifically designed to have the rough, almost rustic or urban decorative appeal of concrete without all the weight and difficulty of application.

Concrete, on the other hand, is used almost exclusively for functional purposes, such as B. Determining the structural framework of a house. Concrete is usually placed in places that need to withstand wear and tear and heavy loads.

Stucco is typically used in vertical applications, e.g. B. for walls and borders. Concrete, on the other hand, is much tougher and heavier and is typically used to fill cracks or provide horizontal support. These two materials are regularly used in construction projects and play different roles in bringing a building together.

Does stucco keep water out?

Since stucco is a masonry product, it is often believed to be waterproof already. However, this isn’t totally true — stucco is indeed permeable and will let some water through.

Stucco Frequently Asked Questions

Stucco creates a beautiful finish that brings a Mediterranean look to any home. However, stucco is more than just aesthetically pleasing – it is known for being hard wearing and strong.

Typically found in the Deep South and other high humidity areas, stucco has to do two things: keep out water and allow the wall to breathe by releasing water vapor that has been trapped in the exterior wall system.

All too often, however, there are defects in the form of rotten wood on the outer walls – a problem that could have been prevented if the stucco work had been carried out professionally. So how can this costly problem be solved? Let’s start with the basics.

What is stucco?

Stucco has been around for centuries. The right mix of Portland cement, lime, sand, and water provides a durable, long-lasting exterior finish for your home. It can be mixed with paint to create a solid color or painted after installation. With proper care, stucco will last more than 50 years.

Isn’t stucco waterproof?

Because stucco is a masonry product, it is often assumed that it is already waterproof. However, this is not entirely true – stucco is in fact permeable and will let some water through.

Impregnating a stucco surface requires a multi-step process that offers high resistance to water penetration while allowing easy escape of water vapor.

How to waterproof stucco

What is typically under stucco?

Because stucco is porous, the base—typically plywood or oriented-strand board sheathing—must have at least one layer of weather-resistant, vapor-permeable asphalt-impregnated building paper (“felt”) or plastic-based building wraps or stucco wraps.

Stucco Frequently Asked Questions

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Expert advice on stucco paneling including pros and cons with helpful diagram and photos of stucco wall construction.

Stucco is a plaster-like siding popular as a siding material for many styles of homes, from Southwestern and European styles to contemporary.

Because stucco is essentially concrete, it has several significant advantages over cladding materials such as wood. First, it’s tough and durable – with proper maintenance, it will last 50 years or more. And it’s seamless, so the weather doesn’t have cracks and crevices to penetrate. Because it is a form of masonry, it is not susceptible to damage from fire, rot, or insects, and is good at insulating sound.

On the other hand, stucco can be brittle and as a result can crack when the house is set or during earthquakes. However, stucco is now formulated with epoxy, making it more elastic and therefore less prone to breakage. If it cracks, it can be repaired as per How to Fix Stucco article.

Another disadvantage is that in extremely rainy regions, water can seep into the stucco and eventually penetrate walls. With any stucco installation, proper masking is an absolute must to prevent damage to the interior of the wall. The application must ensure that water penetrating through the material is properly drained.

Check what local contractors recommend before painting stucco. If painting is an option, choose a 100 percent acrylic latex paint specifically formulated for plaster surfaces. See also How to Paint Stucco.

Traditional stucco construction

Traditional stucco is made from a mixture of Portland cement, fine sand, water and hydrated lime. Also, it may contain acrylic or fiberglass additives that improve its strength and flexibility.

It is applied wet in three coats: a base coat called the “scratch coat”, a second “brown coat” and a final “top coat”.

After applying the first layer, a notched trowel is used to “scratch” the surface with horizontal grooves so that the next brown layer has some grip. Then comes the brown coat and finally the top coat.

Before each subsequent coat is applied, the previous one is allowed to dry—usually a day or two before applying the brown coat and a week or two before applying the top coat. In hot weather, each coat is regularly lightly sprayed with water to allow it to cure slowly and evenly – drying too quickly will weaken it. And the last layer may crack due to shrinkage if not hardened slowly.

Stucco is applied to a wire mesh base that holds it in place and helps prevent cracking. The diagram above shows how an older stucco wall is built – note how this differs from the newer construction shown in the photos below. In the older style, a chicken-wire-like mesh called “stucco netting” is fastened over horizontal wooden lath spacers to allow the stucco to squeeze and grab into pockets.

In newer stucco construction, a much heavier, three-dimensional wire lath is nailed, screwed, or stapled directly to the studs under the base of the weather barrier and sheathing. Contemporary forms of wire slats include woven wire slats, welded wire slats, and expanded metal slats.

Because stucco is porous, the substrate—usually plywood or OSB—must have at least one layer of weather-resistant, vapor-permeable, asphalt-impregnated building paper (“felt”) or plastic-based building envelope or stucco envelope. This barrier must repel weather and water but allow vapor to escape. In many cases two coats are used as the stucco will stick to the top coat making it less effective. A “weep screed” at the foundation line allows water to drain away.

The first two coats can be troweled or sprayed onto the wall. The final coat is typically applied to the surface and given one of many possible textures, from smooth to sandy or irregular.

Instead of painting stucco, pigment is usually mixed into the final layer. A popular option is to use an acrylic based finish as the final coat. Because acrylic surfaces are resilient, they are much less likely to crack and also help minimize moisture penetration into the stucco.

Stucco can also be applied to properly primed solid masonry surfaces such as cinder block, brick, or older stucco. However, to ensure adhesion, it should not be applied to a painted surface without first sandblasting.

Thin-layer stucco systems

Modern synthetic stucco can be applied as a base coat and a top coat that is thinner and has a shorter application life than traditional stucco – closer to a week than two.

The basis for this system is similar to that described above: wire mesh over weather-resistant, vapor-permeable construction paper. However, the composition of the material is different. Mixed with just water and sand, the base coat contains chopped fiberglass and acrylic polymers to make it stronger.

The final coating is typically a colored elastomeric formula mixed with a fine aggregate. The result is a smooth, water-resistant surface that is less prone to cracking than ordinary stucco. It usually looks a bit more uniform in color as well.

One downside is that since it’s thinner than traditional stucco, it’s more easily damaged. Another reason is that it takes longer to dry when it’s soaked. Last but not least, these systems are proprietary and must be used exactly to specification or the warranty may be void.

External Insulation and Finishing Systems (EIFS)

Known to professionals as EIFS, short for Exterior Insulation and Finishing System, this form of synthetic stucco differs from traditional stucco. With ETICS, the panels are covered with an acrylic coating that looks like plaster. The panels can be foam or fiber cement board siding (foam has much higher insulation values). The polymers are generally sprayed onto the panels.

ETICS systems have a reputation for having moisture-related problems, mainly due to improper application. Basically, water can get trapped in the walls and cause rot and mold if it is not properly secured by a membrane, connector and proper drainage system. Before you decide on an ETICS system, do your homework! Professional and quality installation is imperative.

cost of stucco

Stucco is not as expensive as high quality cedar siding, but costs significantly more than vinyl or fiber cement siding. The only way to really determine the cost is to get an estimate, but expect it will likely cost between $6 and $11 per square foot for materials and labor.

Featured Resource: Find a pre-vetted local plasterwork contractor

Wall Section Tutorial 1

Wall Section Tutorial 1
Wall Section Tutorial 1


See some more details on the topic stucco wall detail drawings here:

EXTERIOR STUCCO WALL DETAIL … – ASC Regions 6 & 7

VENT SILL DETAIL @ EXTERIOR. STUCCO WALL. 2X METAL STUDS. LOUVERED VENT W/ STUCCO FLANGE,. REF MECHANICAL DRAWINGS. 5/8″ GYPSUM BOARD. BATT INSULATION.

+ Read More Here

Source: asc67.org

Date Published: 3/29/2021

View: 5686

Details | LaHabra Stucco | Stucco and EIFS

The wall assembly shall be designed to prevent condensation within the assembly. The designer and the user shall prove final drawings and specifications. The …

+ Read More Here

Source: lahabrastucco.com

Date Published: 7/24/2021

View: 4068

Stucco – Wall Penetration (Method 1).pdf – DuPont

TYPICAL WALL. INTERIOR GYPSUM BOARD. STEEL STUDS W/BATT INSULATION … TYPICAL WALL. INTERIOR GYPSUM BOARD … SELECTION AND DETAILING SHOWN ABOVE.

+ Read More Here

Source: www.dupont.com

Date Published: 8/14/2021

View: 7676

Exterior Structural CAD Detail Library – AWCI Technology Center

This is a detail of an exterior wall with stucco finish at window jamb. DOWNLOAD: DWG / PDF (Right click to save these files). WINDOW SILL DETAIL WITH STUCCO …

+ View Here

Source: www.awcitechnologycenter.org

Date Published: 3/18/2021

View: 5741

Details / Drawings – Stuc-O-Flex International

3. WaterWay Drainable Stucco Assembly (Rainscreen) · A. Component Assembly WDSA 1.0 · 1. Roof to Wall Kick-Out Flashing WDSA 2.0 · 2. Cap Flashing 3.01 · 3. Soffit …

+ View Here

Source: www.stucoflex.com

Date Published: 10/29/2021

View: 7234

Wikipedia

Building material made from aggregates, a binder and water

Various stucco examples

Stucco or plaster is a building material made from aggregates, a binder and water. Stucco is applied wet and hardens into a very dense body. It is used as a decorative coating for walls and ceilings, exterior walls, and as a sculptural and artistic material in architecture. Stucco can be applied to building materials such as metal, expanded metal batten, concrete, cinder block, or adobe and adobe brick for decorative and structural purposes.[1]

In English “stucco” sometimes refers to a coating for the exterior of a building and “plaster” to a coating for interiors; However, as discussed below, the materials themselves often show little to no difference. Other European languages, notably Italian, do not have the same distinction; Stucco means plaster in Italian and serves for both.[2]

Composition [ edit ]

Stucco as an exterior coating on a residential building.

Rock dash stucco as an exterior finish for a home on the west coast of Canada. The slivers of quartz, stone and colored glass measure approx. 3-6mm (1/8″ – 1/4″).

The basic composition of stucco is cement, water and sand.[3]

The difference in nomenclature between stucco, plaster, and mortar is based more on usage than composition. Until the second half of the nineteenth century, it was common for plaster used inside a building and stucco used outside to consist of the same basic materials: lime and sand (which are also used in mortar). Animal or vegetable fibers were often added for added strength. In the late nineteenth century Portland cement was increasingly being added to improve the durability of stucco. At the same time, traditional lime plasters were replaced by gypsum plasters.

Traditional stucco consists of lime, sand and water. Modern stucco is made from Portland cement, sand and water. Lime is added to increase the permeability and workability of modern stucco. Additives such as acrylic and fiberglass are sometimes added to improve the structural properties of the stucco. This is usually done with what is known as a one-coat stucco system, as opposed to the traditional three-coat method.

Lime stucco is a relatively hard material that can be broken or chipped by hand without too much difficulty. The lime itself is usually white; Color comes from the aggregate or added pigments. Due to the low water solubility of lime (which can be deposited in cracks where it hardens in dissolved form), lime plaster has the property of being conditionally self-healing. Portland cement stucco is very hard and brittle and can crack easily if the substrate to which it is applied is not stable. Typically its color was gray, the inherent color of most Portland cements, but white Portland cement is also used. Today’s stucco manufacturers offer a very wide range of colors that can be integrally mixed into the finishing plaster. Other materials such as stone and glass chips are sometimes “slung” onto the finish coat before drying, with the finished product commonly known as “rock dash”, “pebble dash” or also roughcast if the stones are directly ​​in incorporated into stucco, mainly used from the early 20th to early 21st centuries.

Traditional stucco[ edit ]

As a building material, stucco is a durable, beautiful and weather-resistant wall covering. It has traditionally been used as both an interior and exterior coating, applied directly to a solid masonry, brick or stone surface in one or two thin coats. The finish coat normally contained an integral color and was typically textured for appearance.

With the introduction and development of heavy timber and light timber frame construction, stucco was adapted for this new use by the addition of a reinforcing mesh or batten, which was attached to and spanned between the structural supports, and by increasing the thickness and number of layers of the overall system. The batten supported the wet plaster and the tensile strength of the brittle, hardened stucco; while the increased thickness and number of layers helped control cracking.

The traditional application of stucco and batten is done in three coats – the scratch coat, the brown coat and the finish coat. The two basic plasters are either applied by hand or sprayed by machine. The top coat can be troweled smooth, hand textured, smoothed to a sand finish or sprayed.

Originally, the batten material consisted of wooden strips attached horizontally to the wall with spaces between them, which supported the wet plaster until it had hardened. This slat and plaster technique became widespread.

In exterior wall applications, the batten is installed over a weather-resistant asphalt-impregnated felt or paper sheet, which protects the frame from moisture that may penetrate through the porous stucco.

After World War II, the introduction of metal wire mesh or netting replaced the use of wooden slats. Galvanizing the wire made it corrosion resistant and suitable for exterior wall applications. At the beginning of the 21st century, this “traditional” method of grating and three-layer external plaster was still widespread.

In some parts of the United States with a warmer climate (such as California, Nevada, Arizona, New Mexico, and Florida), stucco is the predominant exterior for residential and commercial buildings. Stucco exterior (with timber frame interior) became a popular alternative in the Southwest United States in the 1970s as adobe masonry costs rose.

Sculptural and architectural use[edit]

Stucco has also been used as a sculptural and artistic material. Stucco reliefs were used in the architectural decorative schemes of many ancient cultures. Examples of Egyptian, Minoan and Etruscan stucco reliefs survive. There was a widespread tradition of interior figurative and ornamental stucco reliefs in the art of Mesopotamia and Old Persian art, which continued in Islamic art, such as Abbasid Samarra, which now uses geometric and vegetal ornament. As the arabesque reached full maturity, carved stucco remained a very common medium for decoration and calligraphic inscriptions. Indian architecture used stucco as a material for sculpture in an architectural context. It’s rare in the country.

In Roman art of the late Republic and early Empire, stucco was used extensively to decorate vaults. Although marble was the preferred sculptural medium in most cases, stucco was better suited for use in vaults because it was lighter and better able to conform to the curvature of the ceiling. Stucco is used extensively in Baroque and Rococo architecture. Examples are found in churches and palaces, where stucco is used primarily to create a smooth, decorative transition from walls to ceiling and to decorate and add dimension to ceiling surfaces. Stucco is an integral part of the art of the belcomposto, the baroque concept that integrates the three classical arts of architecture, sculpture and painting.

The Greek Buddhist art of modern Afghanistan and northern Pakistan made extensive use of stucco for three-dimensional monumental sculptures and reliefs in monasteries and temples. These were usually carved from rough modeling over a frame and then painted. Similar techniques are used for the life-size statues that adorn the gopurams of Hindu temples in modern South Asia.

Since stucco can be used both for decoration and for figurative representation, it offers an ideal transitional connection from architectural details to wall paintings such as the typical baroque trompe-l’oeil ceilings, as in the work of the Wessobrunn School. Here the real architecture of the church is optically expanded into a heavenly architecture with a depiction of Christ, the Virgin Mary or the Last Judgment in the centre. Stucco is used to form a semi-sculptural extension of the real architecture that blends into the painted architecture.

Baroque-style stucco decorations were often used in upper-class apartments of the 19th and early 20th centuries because of their “aristocratic” appearance.

From the 1920s stucco, particularly in its Neo-Renaissance and Neo-Baroque materialisation, became increasingly unpopular with modern architects in some countries, leading not only to new buildings without stucco but also to a widespread movement to remove the stucco from existing ones rental houses.

Stucco was used in molded forms to decorate wall and ceiling joints in homes as late as the 1950s. It was generally painted the same color as the ceiling and used in designs that used a picture rail or rat rail.

Modern stucco[ edit ]

Modern stucco is used as wall cladding made of cement plaster outdoors. It is usually a mixture of sand, portland cement, lime and water, but can also be made from a proprietary blend of additives including fibers and synthetic acrylics that add strength and flexibility. Modern synthetic stucco can be applied as a base coat and a top coat, which is thinner and quicker to apply compared to the traditional application of three-coat stucco. Stone plaster imitations can also be made with the traditional application, but marble dust is added to the mixture.

apply stucco

As with any cement-based material, stucco needs to be reinforced to resist movement cracking. A plastic or wire mesh batten, attached to the structural frame with nails or screws, is embedded in the base coat to provide stiffening for the stucco. A method commonly used to conceal minor surface cracks that may appear is the application of a variety of pre-mixed acrylic finishes. Flexible acrylic surfaces have the ability to stretch and bridge cracks, improving appearance and limiting the passage of moisture behind the stucco.

When stucco is to be applied to a timber frame or light steel frame structure, the frame is protected from moisture damage by the application of a cement based primer or a vapor permeable, water resistant weather barrier; typically an asphalt impregnated paper or one of a variety of manufactured plastic-based films known as “architecture films” or “stucco films”. The properties of the weather barrier must not only protect the frame from rain and moisture, but at the same time allow the free passage of water vapor generated inside the building to escape through the wall.

In some cases, a wide variety of stucco accessories such as e.g. Flowing screeds, fitting and expansion joints, corner aids and architectural reveals are incorporated into the battens. Wire battens are used to give the plaster something to attach to and to give it strength. Types include expanded metal battens, wire mesh battens, and welded wire battens.

The tools for plastering walls

The first layer of plaster is called “scratch putty” and consists of plastic cement and sand. A trowel is used to scrape the surface horizontally or in a criss-cross pattern to provide a key for the second layer. A brush is not used as this will lead to delamination. The first coat is allowed to dry (cure) before the second coat is applied.

The next layer is called “brown varnish” or leveling varnish. It also consists of sand, cement and lime. It is leveled, scraped smooth, and smoothed with tools called “Darbies”, “Rods” and “Feathereges” to create a smooth, even surface onto which the final coating is applied. It is then allowed to dry (cure) for at least 7-10 days to allow “control” (shrinkage) and cracking to take place.

When applied in very dry weather, the layers of stucco are sprayed with water for a day or more to retain a degree of moisture in the stucco while it cures, a process known as “wet curing”. If the stucco dries too soon, the chemical hardening (“hydration”) will be incomplete, resulting in a weaker and more brittle stucco.

The final, outer layer is the “finish coat” of which there are two recommended types:

Acrylic finish, an acrylic-based finish ranging from 1 to 4 mm (0.039 to 0.157 in) thick. It can be applied in many ways and can be ordered in any color. Color Coat, a mixed finish of colored sand, cement, and lime, typically 3 mm (0.12 in) thick. It is applied over the second coat (brown coat) and can be water smoothed for a sandy finish or textured with a trowel to achieve different types of finishes. Pre-mixed bagged plaster of paris is becoming more common and is available in coarse sand and fine sand to create a variety of trowelled finishes; it is available in a variety of colors.

Repairing historical stucco[ edit ]

Causes of deterioration[edit]

Damaged stucco that has begun to delaminate from its masonry substrate.

Restoring historical stucco should begin with determining the cause of damage to the stucco surface. Historically, applying stucco was quite similar to applying lime plaster. Repairs should be made as soon as problems become apparent as the damage will only worsen over time. Cracks in the stucco can form due to building settlement or direct damage to the exterior finish. Once water is allowed to penetrate the coating, whether through an opening in the stucco itself or beneath its surface, fragile stucco can begin to warp and crumble. Wood is a common construction material that is often used as a substrate under stucco. It can absorb moisture at or below the surface of the earth and direct it away from the original source of the problem. Stucco can also be applied to masonry such as brick or stone, which can also be damaged by moisture penetration.

Rising damp due to groundwater or drainage problems is particularly problematic. The stucco can peel away from the damp slat of wood underneath, and as the wood rots, the stucco can begin to deteriorate and peel away from it and the building. Damage to the stucco itself leads to further moisture infiltration, which aggravates the deterioration of the surface, as well as the substrate. Downspouts, gutters, flashing, and other means of directing water away from the building prevent the damage from getting worse.[7] Without proper guttering, water can splash onto plastered surfaces, staining and accelerating surface deterioration. It may also be necessary to grade the soil around the building to wick moisture away from the structure and foundation.

Preparation and repair[edit]

Depending on the extent of the damage to the paintwork, repairs can be carried out to varying degrees. Small hairline cracks can be sealed with an additional top coat or simply with a coat of paint. Modern sealing materials are not ideal repair tools. The decision to touch up or fully repair a stucco surface depends on the texture of the finish coat. Repairs, especially numerous, made to a smooth surface are more noticeable and restoring the entire surface with a new coat of finish coat may be more appropriate. Conversely, it may be easier to conceal repairs on a textured surface, and full post-processing may not be necessary.[7]

Preparation should begin with the removal of all damaged materials in the area to be repaired. Loose stucco should be removed as it has already failed.[8] Removal of damaged materials may extend to wooden slats or other substrates that may also have been damaged, although it may be preferable to install a new grille over a damaged slat. Care should be taken with this approach as it can be particularly critical where the authenticity of a historic building is important. In such cases, replacing damaged slats is generally considered more appropriate than installing a new fabric. All surfaces should be cleaned to remove paint, oil or vegetation. Stone or brick mortar joints can be scored to a depth of 5/8 inch to allow for proper adhesion of the new stucco. New patches of stucco should not overlap old stucco.

To get a clean repair, the area to be touched up should be beveled with a butt joint, cold chisel, hatchet, diamond blade saw or stone chisel. Sometimes it may be preferable to leave the area to be patched in an irregular shape, which can result in a less noticeable patch. Proper preparation of the area to be touched up requires very sharp tools and extreme caution on the part of the plasterer not to “sonic” the keys of the surrounding good stucco when removing damaged stucco.

Diagram showing the use of chicken wire as a substrate for an exterior Portland cement application.

The application of new stucco should not include wire mesh when repairing lime stucco to a masonry surface. The new stucco repair should adhere properly to the masonry substrate without any tissue. The introduction of wire mesh has the potential to accelerate deterioration of both masonry and stucco finishes, as the slightest amount of moisture will lead to the development of rust on the wire mesh, which will expand as it rusts. This can lead to chipping not only of the new stucco but also of the masonry itself.[7]

After thoroughly wetting the masonry or wood batten, the first coat of scratching should be applied to the sub-masonry, wood or metal batten to a thickness equal to the original, if any, generally about 1⁄4″ to 3⁄8″. The scratch layer should be scraped or hatched with a comb to provide a key to holding the second layer. It normally takes 24-72 hours and longer in cold weather for each coat to cure before the next coat can be applied. The second layer should be about the same thickness as the first, and the total thickness of the first two layers should generally not exceed about 5⁄8″. This second or leveling coat should be roughened up with a wooden trowel with a protruding nail to form a key for the finish or top coat. The top coat, about 1⁄4″ thick, is applied after the previous coat has initially cured. If this is not possible, the base coat should be thoroughly dampened when the top coat is subsequently applied. The finish coat should be finished to match the texture of the original stucco.[7]

Additional considerations[edit]

In preparation for the repair process, tests must be performed to determine the composition of the stucco to be repaired. Due to numerous factors, including regionally available materials and original workmanship, there is a wide variety of materials that may have been used in stucco’s original application. It must also be determined whether the type of stucco used is lime-based or portland cement-based. Of particular concern is the use of Portland cement, which is harder than previous methods used in applying stucco. This material is not compatible with the softer and more flexible lime cement used in the 18th and mid-19th centuries. Test samples are critical to determine the best mix in terms of durability, compatibility, texture and color for the repair process. Test patches should be used to facilitate this determination. The repair should use the same number of coats used in the original stucco application.[7]

A professional plasterer or contractor familiar with the repair process on historic stucco should make the necessary repairs. Typically, a homeowner should not attempt to repair plaster surfaces themselves.

Other investigations that should be conducted before beginning the repair include determining the types of ingredients used in the original stucco to match the color and texture of the original material as closely as possible. In some cases, shells or pebbles were used in the stucco paneling. For example, locally sourced sand may have been used in the original application but may no longer be readily available. In this way stucco was usually tinted directly, although it was sometimes painted after application.[9] Additionally, the use of ingredients such as animal hair was popular in some regions. Care should be taken to ensure repairs performed contain similar ingredients that are clean and free of oils.[10] This is another reason for using trial patches to ensure that the repairs match the original structure as closely as possible.

See also[edit]

References[edit]

Further Reading[edit]

What Is Stucco Material?

Traditional masonry stucco is a cement-based plaster applied to walls and other surfaces inside and outside buildings. It is made from cement, sand and lime and cures into an extremely durable material that requires little maintenance. Like traditional decorative plaster, stucco can be troweled, brushed or otherwise textured to create a variety of surface effects. Stucco is usually applied over a galvanized wire mesh called a lath, which helps the stucco adhere to the supporting structure and strengthen the entire assembly. Stucco is usually mixed on site and applied in three coats.

plaster coats

The metal crown molding is installed over a moisture membrane that is applied to the wall paneling. The batten is a structural mesh with holes approximately 1/4 inch wide. The first layer of wet stucco pushes through the holes to create a strong bond to the batten.

Traditional or “3-coat” stucco is applied to the batten in three thin coats: the scratch coat, the brown coat, and the finish coat. The scratch coat is applied first and embedded into the metal lath to provide a strong base for the other two coats. It’s called scratch coat because it’s often scratched with a small rake tool to create a grooved texture. The grooves improve the adhesion of the second layer.

The second coat or brown coat is applied next and troweled smooth to provide an even surface for the top coat. The top coat is applied last and forms the decorative finish of the wall finish. This is also the fur, which is colored on request. The total thickness of the three layers is approximately 7/8 inch.

Building code standards for stucco

The International Building Code (IBC) gives recommendations for stucco installation, including the minimum time delay between each coat. In addition, there are two standards from the American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) that govern the application of stucco:

ASTM C 926 Standard Specification for the Application of Portland Cement-Based Plaster

ASTM C 1063 Standard Specification for the Installation of Laths and Facings for Receiving Portland Cement-Based Interior and Exterior Plaster

mix stucco

Because stucco is cement based and hardens when mixed with water, it must be mixed just prior to application. it cannot be sold in premixed form. “Premixed” stucco is a dry mix that contains all the necessary ingredients, and all you add is water. These commercially produced stucco mixes can be an easy fix for many construction projects.

Traditionally, stucco is mixed with bulk materials on site. The trick to creating your own mix of stucco is that each batch is exactly the same. A simple stucco mix consists of:

Three parts of sand

One part Portland cement

Hydrated lime up to 10% of the cement volume

water

The slower stucco dries, the stronger it becomes. In sunny and hot locations, stucco must be shaded to prevent the stucco mixture from drying out. When using pre-mixed stucco, it is best to follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Never apply stucco when the weather temperature is below 40 F.

Manufacturer of premixed stucco

There are many major manufacturers you can contact for more information on mixing and applying stucco:

Parex USA

Omega products

Mission Stuck

Merlex stucco

Eagle building materials

California stucco

BMI products

coloring stucco

Stucco can be mixed with pigment to create a range of colors, or it can be used without pigment and simply wear the natural gray of its cement. Some contractors tend to use warm colors like yellow, pink, or orange, but beige and white are perhaps the most commonly used colors for stucco. Stucco can be painted, but must cure for at least six weeks before painting. Coloring stucco with pigments is far preferable to painting because color is a regular maintenance issue, while premixed coloring is permanent.

Stucco Frequently Asked Questions

While stucco has maintained a strong presence in several parts of North America, there seems to be a general renewed interest in Portland cement plaster for building finishes everywhere. We are often asked whether stucco and plaster are the same and whether plaster and thermal insulation composite systems (ETICS) are the same.

The answer requires a thorough explanation. Plaster is the general term for material applied to a wall surface in a thin layer. Portland cement-based plaster is one such material that uses Portland cement as a binder. It is sometimes referred to as “traditional stucco”. Stucco is a somewhat colloquial term for Portland cement plaster, and some people think it refers to an exterior, not an interior, finish. External insulation and finishing systems are sometimes (incorrectly) referred to as “synthetic” stucco. To complicate matters further, “plastering” is the verb that describes the act of applying one of these various materials to a wall surface.

Portland cement plaster is applied either by hand or by machine in two or three coats to exterior and interior wall surfaces. It can be applied directly to a solid support such as masonry or concrete walls, or it can be applied to a metal batten attached to a framework, solid masonry or concrete structure. Applied directly to concrete masonry, Portland cement render provides a tough, ½ inch thick facing that is fully bonded to the masonry substrate. When applied to a metal lath, three coats of plaster make up a total thickness of 7/8 inch. A vapour-permeable, water-repellent construction cardboard separates plaster and lath from water-sensitive casing or framing. Portland cement plaster has high impact resistance and sheds water, but breathes and allows water vapor to escape. It is a proven system that works in all climates.

Thermal Insulation Composite Systems (ETICS) consist of a polymer-based laminate that is applied wet, usually in two layers, to a rigid insulation board that is attached to the wall with adhesive, mechanical fasteners, or both. The most common are polymer-based (PB) systems, sometimes referred to as thin film, soft film, or flexible coatings. The basecoat for polymer based systems is typically 1/16 inch thick and the topcoat thickness is typically no thicker than the maximum sand particle size in the topcoat.

In the 1990s, exterior insulation finishing systems faced performance issues including water leakage and poor impact resistance. While polymer-based skin is very effective at repelling water, problems arise when moisture gets behind the skin—typically through windows, doors, or other penetrations—and becomes trapped in the wall. Trapped moisture eventually rots the insulation, sheathing and timber frame. It also corrodes metal frames and metal fasteners. There were fewer problems with ETICS on solid substrates such as concrete or masonry, as these substrates are very stable and neither rot nor corrode.

Of course, Portland cement plaster should not be confused with the exterior insulation and finishing systems. The systems may have similarities in application techniques or final appearance, but the systems behave differently when it comes to withstanding weather, particularly in wet conditions.

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