Dual Lye Liquid Soap | Dual Lye Liquid Soap Using The Cold Process Method 답을 믿으세요

당신은 주제를 찾고 있습니까 “dual lye liquid soap – Dual Lye Liquid Soap Using the Cold Process Method“? 다음 카테고리의 웹사이트 https://chewathai27.com/you 에서 귀하의 모든 질문에 답변해 드립니다: https://chewathai27.com/you/blog. 바로 아래에서 답을 찾을 수 있습니다. 작성자 Alpha Omega Soaps Christine Kenyon 이(가) 작성한 기사에는 조회수 11,039회 및 좋아요 534개 개의 좋아요가 있습니다.

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d여기에서 Dual Lye Liquid Soap Using the Cold Process Method – dual lye liquid soap 주제에 대한 세부정보를 참조하세요

This video is about making liquid soap with both potassium hydroxide and sodium hydroxide, using the cold process method. The recipe is included in the video. It makes a thick shower gel with great lather. It’s a simple video–no special effects or music, but one I hope is helpful and informative. Please post any questions, feedback, comments, etc. in the comments’ section below.
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Thank you for watching. Have a wonderful day and God bless you~

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Dual Lye Liquid Soap | Soapmaking Forum

Hi, my question is can I use 90% KOH And 10% NaOH and Oils to make liqu soap? Running the recipe through Summerbee’s it says 12.15 oz.

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Source: www.soapmakingforum.com

Date Published: 10/22/2021

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Basic Dual Lye Liquid Soap Recipe using Olive Oil – Soapee

Basic Dual Lye Liqu Soap Recipe that has perfect INS. Uses Olive oil, coconut and castor,. Notes. Cold process full water method. Oils …

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Source: soapee.com

Date Published: 12/6/2022

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Basic Dual Lye Liquid Soap Recipe using Olive Oil

Liqu Required, 146.08 g. NaOH Weight at 99 % Purity, 67.5 g. KOH Weight at 90 % Purity, 5.54 g. Lye Weight, 73.04 g. Oil Weight, 500 g.

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Source: www.soapmakingfriend.com

Date Published: 3/30/2021

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주제와 관련된 이미지 dual lye liquid soap

주제와 관련된 더 많은 사진을 참조하십시오 Dual Lye Liquid Soap Using the Cold Process Method. 댓글에서 더 많은 관련 이미지를 보거나 필요한 경우 더 많은 관련 기사를 볼 수 있습니다.

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주제에 대한 기사 평가 dual lye liquid soap

• Author: Alpha Omega Soaps Christine Kenyon
• Views: 조회수 11,039회
• Likes: 좋아요 534개
• Date Published: 2020. 7. 12.
• Video Url link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tXWseXsV7-8

What lye is used in liquid soap?

In liquid soap making, you use a different type of lye called Potassium hydroxide (KOH). Also called caustic potash, it will not create solid soap and instead results in a kind of sticky vaseline-looking paste. Diluting the paste in water creates liquid soap.

Why use double lye shaving soap?

This shaving soap recipe uses two types of lye, at a ratio of 2:3 (two parts Sodium Hydroxide to three parts Potassium Hydroxide or in other words, 40% NaOH + 60% KOH), which creates a softer soap that lathers easier.

What is the best lye to water ratio for soap making?

In addition, the lye may not have enough water to dissolve fully. In general, the absolute highest ratio of water to lye is 1:1. This means there is equal parts lye and water in the mixture, or 50/50. At this ratio, the lye is still able to dissolve, but will be very concentrated and somewhat difficult to work with.

What is a hybrid soap?

Hybrid soaps are combination of cold process soap and melt and pour soap into a single bar or batch of soap. The creamy cold process soap and magical translucent soap mixed together into one bar will make people wonder how you did it!

Why is it called Castile soap?

Castile soap was made in the Mediterranean area before its use spread to Europe. Traditionally, castile soap was made of olive oil. It gets its name from the Castile region of Spain. These days, the soap is also made with coconut, castor, or hemp oils.

How do you make good quality liquid soap?

What does stearic acid do in shaving soap?

High Stearic acid creates the stable lather, slickness, and whisker softening qualities that are needed in a shaving soap. Saponifying fats with potassium and sodium hydroxide helps result in these qualities. Potassium hydroxide (potash) when mixed with fats/oils causes a chemical reaction called saponification.

How do you make shaving soap without lye?

How do you calculate lye for liquid soap?

Can you use liquid lye for soap making?

If you want to try something new or cannot find dry lye, consider the technique of using a liquid lye solution for making soap instead of making your own lye solution from scratch. It’s not any more difficult than regular soapmaking and doesn’t require any extra time.

What is a good lye concentration?

Most recipes and tutorials here on Modern Soapmaking use a 33% lye solution, as it’s typically a manageable water discount during the soapmaking process, but also hardens up a little quicker to get the soap out of the mold! A strong water discount is typically referred to as a 40% lye solution.

Can you use sodium hydroxide to make liquid soap?

Sodium hydroxide is used to makes bar soap. It forms a solid, opaque bar soap. Potassium hydroxide makes liquid soap, which is flowing, clear, or translucent.

How do you make Castile soap lather more?

Adding a bit of sugar to a soap recipe can help make a light, bubbly lather with large bubbles when the oils you’re using do not lather up as much as you’d like.

Dual lye recipe

Classic Bells > Soapy stuff > Dual lye recipe

Calculating a dual lye recipe

Some soap makers use two alkalis — sodium hydroxide (NaOH) and potassium hydroxide (KOH) — to make some types of soap. In the hand crafted soaping world, these dual-lye recipes are often used for specialty soaps such as cream soap, shave soap, and liquid soap. Dual-lye recipes are much less common for bar soap, but they do exist.

In her book Castile Soapmaking, author Anne Watson recommends a blend of 5% KOH and 95% NaOH for making classic castile (100% olive oil) soap. She says the KOH reduces the stringy, gelatinous goo that castile (or any soap high in oleic acid) is infamous for making.

A soap high in tallow, lard, palm oil, or the nut butters (in other words, soap high in stearic and palmitic acids) might benefit from a bit of KOH to increase the solubility and lather of this type of soap.

How to calculate the weights of KOH and NaOH for a dual-lye recipe?

The first thought many people have when designing a dual-lye recipe is to just calculate the alkali weight as if the recipe was a single-lye recipe and divide this total weight in proportion to the percentages of KOH and NaOH. If you do that, however, it will not work. Your soap will either be soft and greasy from not nearly enough alkali or brittle and dangerously alkaline from too much alkali.

The key to remember is each batch of soap requires a specific number of alkali molecules, whether they be KOH molecules, NaOH molecules, or a combination of both. Because each KOH molecule weighs 1.403 times more than an NaOH molecule, a soaper must allow for that weight difference so the batch gets the correct number of alkali molecules to make good soap.

Let’s say you want make a dual-lye soap using 95% NaOH molecules and 5% KOH molecules. How can you calculate the correct weights for KOH and NaOH?

Geeky Soapers may want to do the calculations by hand. The easiest way, however, is to let a dual-lye recipe calculator do the work. Suitable soap calculators include Soapee and the Advanced version of the SummerBeeMeadow calc. I strongly recommend Soapee over the SBM calculator, because Soapee is better organized and easier to understand.

To start a dual-lye recipe in Soapee, click the button next to the “Hybrid Soap” option in Section 1 —

Click in the underlined area just to the left of the words “% KOH”. Type the percentage of KOH you want in your recipe. I have entered 5% KOH in the screen shot above. Soapee will then calculate the percentage of NaOH. In this example, the answer is 95% NaOH.

Alternatively, you can click in the underlined area just to the left of the words “% NaOH” and enter the percentage of NaOH. Soapee will then calculate the percentage of KOH for you. Either way works.

Enter the % KOH purity in the next line. If you don’t know the purity, check with your supplier. If the supplier will not provide that information, Soapee suggests using 90% KOH purity since KOH is often about that pure.

Continue entering the information for your recipe — units of measure, water, superfat, and fragrance.

To enter the fats, double click on the name of your first fat. New windows will appear. One window will show the properties of the fat and another will allow you to enter the percentage or weight of this fat.

The finished recipe will appear, including the weights of KOH and NaOH, as fats are added.

How to calculate the weight of extra alkali if you also add an acid to dual-lye soap?

Some people add acids, such as citric acid (citrus juices), acetic acid (vinegar), ascorbic acid (vitamin C), or lactic acid (yogurt), to their soap. Depending on the type of acid chosen and the amount added, this can make soap batter more fluid, reduce soap scum in the shower or sink, increase shelf life of the finished soap, and/or increase hardness of bar soap.

Any time you add an acid to soap, the acid will consume some of the alkali. If you do not add extra alkali to compensate for what the acid will use up, there will not be enough alkali left over to fully saponify the fats according to your recipe. This means the soap batch will have a higher superfat than you may want.

The solution to this problem is to add the extra alkali that the acid needs. For a dual-lye recipe, here is a simple way to calculate this extra alkali —

Decide how much acid you want to use in your batch. Calculate the NaOH (sodium hydroxide) needed to react with this acid. Click on a link (above) for the acid you want to use to get more help. Add this extra NaOH weight to the NaOH weight needed for the soap. The answer is the total weight of NaOH needed for the recipe — Total NaOH wt = NaOH for acid + NaOH for saponification The KOH weight will not change — Total KOH wt = KOH for saponification

How to make a dual lye blend with NaOH and KOH?

Wear your usual safety gear for working with lye. At a minimum, please use protective gloves to protect your hands and either chemical splash goggles or a face shield to protect your eyes. Make sure your work area has good ventilation or work outdoors. Review the first aid for lye….

If you are using solid NaOH and solid KOH, weigh out each alkali. Add one alkali to the room-temperature water-based liquid in your recipe, and mix until that alkali is dissolved. Add the second alkali and mix until it is also fully dissolved. It doesn’t matter which one you use first. Add the lye solution to your fats and make soap as usual.

How to use a masterbatched 50% NaOH solution along with KOH?

Weigh the correct amount of the 50% NaOH masterbatch solution to get the proper amount of NaOH for the recipe. Set this container aside.

Weigh the additional water-based liquid needed for the recipe in another container. Weigh out the solid KOH. Add the KOH to the container of water-based liquid and stir until the KOH is dissolved.

Pour the containers of 50% NaOH solution and weak KOH solution into the fats and make soap as usual.

Caution — The total weight of water-based liquid in the recipe must be equal to or more than the total weight of alkali (NaOH + KOH). If you try to use less water, the lye concentration will be over 50% and the alkali may not completely dissolve.

More discussion about BAR soap made with mostly NaOH with a little KOH

https://www.soapmakingforum.com/threads/dual-lye-castile.59747/

https://www.soapmakingforum.com/threads/castile-95-naoh-5-koh-calculations-help.60350/

https://www.soapmakingforum.com/threads/dual-alkali-soaps-naoh-koh.61561/

https://www.soapmakingforum.com/threads/dual-lye-soap-what-is-this-amazing-concept.62022/

More discussion about LIQUID soap made with mostly KOH and the remainder NaOH

https://www.soapmakingforum.com/threads/dual-lye-liquid-soap.63517/ see posts 33, 34

Disclaimer

I take no credit for being the inventor of the dual-lye idea. In addition to Anne Watson, I know soap makers Evik (Curious Soapmaker, http://curious-soapmaker.com/), and Sistrum (https://www.soapmakingforum.com/members/sistrum.2742/) have shared this idea as well.

——–

Extra Credit: How to hand calculate the weights of KOH, NaOH, and water

If you are not familiar with SBM Advanced, Soapee, or other soap recipe calculator that can calculate dual-lye recipes, you can trick your favorite single-lye soap calculator, such as the well known SoapCalc calculator, into doing some of the work, but you will have to break out your trusty calculator to finish up. Here’s how —

1. Enter your complete recipe into the recipe calculator as usual with all the oil weights, superfat percentage, water settings, etc.

If the calculator allows you to adjust the KOH purity, leave the purity set at 100%. You will correct for that later on in this procedure.

2. Calculate the exact same soap recipe twice. Leave EVERYTHING the same for each calculation EXCEPT the choice of lye.

The first time, choose NaOH as the lye. Record the “All-NaOH weight” from this recipe calculation. The second time choose KOH as the lye. Do not change anything else. Record the “All-KOH weight” for this version of your recipe. For the first calculation, the recipe calculator will tell you how much NaOH and water you would need if NaOH is ALL of the lye in the recipe. In the second version, the calculator will tell you how much KOH and water you would need if KOH is ALL of the lye.

3. Decide what percentage of NaOH molecules you want in your recipe.

4. Multiply the weight of each alkali by the desired percentage desired in the recipe. This step is also where you will adjust for the KOH purity. if you are not sure about your KOH purity, a good guess is to assume it is around 90% pure. —

NaOH weight for recipe = (All-NaOH weight) X (% NaOH molecules) / 100 KOH weight for recipe = (All-KOH weight) X (100 – % NaOH molecules) / (KOH purity %) Example 1: The recipe calculator says 213 grams NaOH is needed to make my soap recipe if I use all NaOH. For the same recipe made with all KOH, the KOH weight is 299 grams. I want to use 95% NaOH molecules and 5% KOH molecules in the soap to make a 95:5 dual lye batch. The purity of my KOH is 92%. What is the weight of each alkali to make a 95% NaOH, 5% KOH version of my recipe? NaOH weight for recipe = 213 X 95 / 100 = 202.4 grams KOH weight for recipe = 299 X (100 – 95) / 92 = 299 X 5 / 92 = 16.3 grams Important: Do the subtraction problem inside the parentheses FIRST (100-95) and then do the multiplication and division.

5a. If your recipe uses “water as % of oils” to calculate the water weight, then use the water weight from either version of your recipe. “Water as % of oils” will stay the same as long as the oil weight stays the same.

5b. If your recipe is based on lye concentration or water:lye ratio to calculate the water weight, then do these calculations:

How to make Liquid Hand Soap from Scratch

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Recipe and instructions for how to make liquid hand soap using olive oil and coconut oil. Makes over two quarts of natural liquid soap for use in pumps and squeezy bottles

Washing our hands has never been more important, and many of us have been going through bars and bottles of soap like never before. So much so that people are running out and sometimes finding it difficult to buy. Just yesterday I went into two supermarkets trying to find liquid hand soap to no avail — it’s gone the way of hand sanitizer here, especially the good stuff. I hope you can find it a little easier in your area but if not, you can make liquid hand soap yourself.

If you’ve made bar soap before using the hot process method, then this recipe will feel familiar. If you’re mainly a cold-process soap maker, the process is entirely different. It takes prolonged heat, a different kind of lye, and a lot more time. At the end of saponification, you’ll have a soap paste that you can store for up to two years, or dilute into liquid soap on the spot. In fact, the relatively small investment in cost will make at least two quarts (two liters) of the best quality natural liquid soap you’ve ever used.

Ingredients to make liquid hand soap

This is a bastille recipe, meaning that it’s at least seventy percent olive oil. I’m using extra virgin olive oil in my batch, which is why the resulting paste and soap have a greenish tinge. If you use light-colored olive oil, then your soap will be cheaper to make and a color similar to Dr. Bronners. The other oil in the recipe is refined 76 coconut oil and it adds the lather and bubbles that olive oil soap lacks.

The other ingredients you’ll need are distilled water, Potassium hydroxide (KOH), and vegetable glycerine. Liquid hand soap has a superfat of just 3% so the glycerine helps add moisture and glide. If you’d like to scent your soap you can also add essential oils, though that’s completely optional. Those that smell nice and that have disinfectant qualities include lavandin, peppermint, and tea tree. At the end of the process, you’ll have a golden liquid soap that’s golden and translucent.

You create liquid soap by introducing oils to a strong alkali called Potassium hydroxide

Lye: KOH vs NaOH

I’ve said it many times before, but true soap making is chemistry. Soap is created through a process called saponification in which lye and oils interact in a controlled manner. In cold-process soap making, you use Sodium hydroxide (NaOH) to create hard bars of soap. In liquid soap making, you use a different type of lye called Potassium hydroxide (KOH). Also called caustic potash, it will not create solid soap and instead results in a kind of sticky vaseline-looking paste. Diluting the paste in water creates liquid soap.

Almost all KOH available to the home soap maker is only 90% pure, but you should make sure before you begin. Oftentimes, it will be on the bottle but if not, check with the retailer or look on their website for a document for the lye called an MSDS sheet. It’s a material safety data sheet and it will tell you all about what’s in it, amongst other information. If your KOH is different, make sure to rework the amount you’ll need for this recipe using the SoapCalc. It’s best to always run soap recipes through it beforehand anyway. The field it includes for KOH has a tickbox for if the potassium hydroxide is only 90% pure.

You’ll need a slow cooker (crockpot) to make liquid hand soap

Soap making equipment

Many of the items you’ll need to make liquid hand soap are the same ones you’d use in cold-process soap making. There’s a list below that includes familiar tools such as an immersion blender and a digital scale. The one real difference is a slow-cooker/crockpot. The process needs steady, indirect, and prolonged heat for the cooking phase and slow cookers are the best tools for the job. After you’re finished making soap, the slow-cooker is perfectly fine to use to make food recipes. You don’t need to purchase one specifically for soap making.

Stovetops can have hot spots and the direct heat on a pan could be problematic. I don’t know of any soap makers that would make liquid soap using this method on a stove, but if anyone did, it would probably require cooking on a double-boiler. If you’ve made liquid soap using a stove or oven, do leave a comment and let us know about your experience.

Just a small amount of this liquid hand soap is enough to work up a nice lather and clean your hands

Making Liquid Hand Soap

Making liquid hand soap has three phases: cooking the ingredients, testing for clarity and completed saponification, and liquifying the soap paste into something you’d recognize as liquid soap. Each step takes time, but especially the first and third steps. When I say time, you’d do well to set aside a weekend for this project. Some liquid soap makers have the experience of being able to make it all in an afternoon, but I don’t think that’s realistic for most. Expect that it will take longer, and take your time while making liquid hand soap and you’ll have better results.

There’s a video pin that shows the various stages of this soap recipe. Have a watch to better understand the process and save it for later on Pinterest.

Most of my soap recipes are for small batches of cold-process soap. It takes about an hour or less to make them and then you forget about them for a month while they cure. Because making liquid soap takes a lot longer, this recipe is relatively larger. That way you invest the time once and have enough soap to last months, or longer.

Diluted and ready-to-use liquid soap on the left, and the soap paste on the right. You dilute the paste with water and glycerine to create liquid soap.

Your final soap paste should be about 1100 g/38.8 oz/2.43 lbs, and once liquified with distilled water and glycerine, it will be at least double that. In volume measurements, that’s approximately two quarts. You could even have a lot more if you decide to add more water.

As you read below you may feel a little overwhelmed by the steps and testing. In that case, you can also make a simple kind of liquid soap by grating up a bar of soap. I go over how you make it in this piece.

Testing liquid hand soap

Liquid soap making is much more tricky than cold-process soap making because of the lye. With KOH being only 90% pure, it can cause your soap to be lye-heavy, and harsh on the skin, or overly superfatted and cloudy. You can have everything measured correctly and this can still happen because of the lye’s 10% wild card. That’s why testing your soap is so important, and unfortunately, it needs to be done for every batch of liquid soap you make.

Using the clarity test, I can see that this batch of liquid soap is fully cooked. You should be able to see through it clearly and cloudiness is fine.

Testing the superfat

If your liquid soap has too high of a superfat, so anything more than 3%, then it will turn your soap cloudy. It can also cause all kinds of issues once you begin adding essential oils and fragrances, and some people have reported seeing their soap separate afterward. Also, too much oil can separate anyway and float to the surface, after you dilute the soap paste in water.

After you think the soap has finished cooking, gently stir a teaspoon of soap paste into half a cup of scalding hot distilled water. Let it sit and dissolve, giving it another stir if it needs help breaking up. Let it cool completely then have a look. If there’s oil on the surface, or if the liquid is milky and opaque then you still have unsaponified oils in the paste. Continue cooking it until it’s much clearer. Just to be clear, milky means you can’t see through it at all. If your liquid is translucent then you’re good to go.

Liquid soap should have a pH of 9 to 10.2. Don’t attempt to bring it below this or your soap will separate.

Testing for lye-heaviness

You test for excess lye by checking its pH. Dilute one part soap paste into ninety-nine parts scalding hot distilled water and cool to room temperature. Take the pH using strips (Litmus test papers) and check to see if the soap is between 9-10. Allow the paper to dry completely for the most accurate result.

Liquid soap is supposed to be alkaline, but if it’s above this amount then your soap is lye-heavy. Adjust down to the proper pH by adding diluted citric acid but don’t go below 9 or it will destabilize. Further information on testing liquid soap is over here.

Dilute the soap paste as you need more liquid soap. It’s safer to do that than dilute it all at once.

Shelf-life and Preservatives

One big thing you’ll find different in my recipe compared to others is the last stage — I don’t liquefy the soap paste all at once. Whenever you add liquid water to a product, be it food, lotions, or soap, you’re creating an environment that microbes can colonize. The alkaline pH of the soap should deter most, but to be on the safe side, just wait, and liquify only the amount that you’d use in a month. Alternatively, you can liquefy it all but please add a broad-spectrum preservative to keep microbes out. There are various types to choose from, including natural preservatives.

Another thing I need to add, or rather not add. If you wanted to add things like goat milk or honey or other lovely yummy ingredients I’d encourage you to think twice. Because of the water content, your soap will already be a temptation for bacteria. Adding sugar-rich ingredients will tempt them even more! If you use them at any stage of liquid soap making, you will need a preservative to stop your soap from becoming a microbe breeding ground.

Natural Liquid Hand Soap Recipe Lovely Greens Technical information: 1.76lb / 800g batch — 3% superfat 4.93 from 14 votes Print Recipe Pin Recipe Prep Time 1 hr Cook Time 1 d Total Time 1 hr Servings 2 Quarts Equipment Digital scale

Immersion blender

Slow cooker (crockpot)

Heat-proof jug for the lye-solution

Rubber spatula for stirring and scraping

Small sieve (strainer)

Various kitchen bowls

Goggles (eye protection)

Gloves (hand protection)

pH strips Ingredients 1x 2x 3x Lye solution 181 g Potassium hydroxide (90% pure) 6.39 oz

550 g Distilled water 19.4 oz Oils 240 g Coconut oil (refined) 8.47 oz

560 g Olive oil 19.75 oz For diluting Vegetable glycerine

Distilled water

Essential oil Optional Instructions Make the Soap Paste Prepare your workstation with your tools and equipment. Put on rubber gloves, eye protection, and an apron. Carefully pre-measure the ingredients. The oils in the slow cooker, the water in a heat-proof jug, and the lye (KOH) in another container.

Turn the slow cooker on to high heat and melt the coconut oil. When it’s liquid, continue to the next step but keep the heat on.

Dissolve the lye crystals in water. In an airy place, outdoors is best, pour the lye crystals into the water (not the other way around) and stir well. Don’t be alarmed if it fizzes and crackles as this is normal for KOH. If you’ve made soap using sodium hydroxide, please note that the reaction between KOH is a little more active. Stir until the lye is completely dissolved.

Pour the lye solution into the melted oils. Now it’s time to blend. Put the immersion blender in the slow cooker and, turned off, use it as a spoon to gently stir the ingredients together. Bring it to the middle of the slow cooker next, press it right against the bottom and turn it on for a few seconds. Don’t move it around while it’s on. Now turn it off and use it to stir again. Repeat this until you see the batter thicken slightly. Put the lid on the slow cooker and allow it to sit for five minutes before coming back. The soap batter may look a little separated or chunky and different from other types of soap you’ve made before. Don’t be too concerned.

Repeat this process of stirring and blending and allowing to sit for a few minutes. After fifteen to thirty minutes it will thicken up to very thick ‘Trace’. Keep stick blending until the soap becomes thick like really dry mashed potatoes and it becomes difficult to stick blend any longer.

Time to cook. All this time the slow cooker has been on high heat and that’s where you’re going to leave it for at least the next three to six hours. Put the lid on, and let it cook for that time, stirring every thirty minutes. You can set a timer if that helps. During that time, the texture of the soap will change dramatically — from the runny custard to mashed potatoes, to puffy taffy, to glue, to something that looks like a puffy mess with chunks of greenish or golden amber.

Finally, after hours of cooking and stirring, the soap will all look amber paste. Some soap makers describe it as looking like vaseline. Once your soap looks like that, it’s probably fully cooked. This soap paste is the first major step in creating your liquid hand soap. Note: if you cook and cook and don’t seem to get anywhere. Unplug the slow cooker, cover it with a towel and let it sit overnight. Have a look the next morning and see what it looks like. Sometimes just letting it sit in residual heat overnight does the trick. If this doesn’t work, keep heating it the next morning. Testing the soap You now need to know if the soap is actually complete and if it’s lye-heavy or not. Let’s begin by seeing if there’s unsaponified oil in the soap. Gently stir a teaspoon of soap paste into half a cup of scalding hot distilled water. Let it sit and dissolve, giving it another stir if it needs help breaking up. Let it cool completely then have a look. If there’s oil on the surface, or if the liquid is milky and opaque then you still have unsaponified oils in the paste. Continue cooking it until it’s much clearer. Just to be clear, milky means you can’t see through it at all. If your liquid is translucent then you’re good to go.

Test the soap for excess lye by checking its pH. Dilute one part soap paste into ninety-nine parts scalding hot distilled water and cool to room temperature. Take the pH using strips (Litmus test papers) and check to see if the soap is between 9-10. Allow the paper to dry completely for the most accurate result. Liquid soap is supposed to be alkaline, but if it’s above this amount then your soap is lye-heavy. Adjust down to the proper pH by adding diluted citric acid but don’t go below 9 or it will destabilize. Diluting the soap paste Once you’ve tested the paste, you can now dilute part or all of it. If you dilute the full amount, then you’ll have more soap than you’ll probably be able to use in a month. In that case, you will need to add a suitable broad-spectrum preservative. Alternatively, keep the soap paste stored in a jar and dilute part of it at a time. The soap paste does not need a preservative and has a shelf-life of up to two years. The shelf-life will be the closest best-by date of the ingredients you use (check your bottles). You can also use the soap paste on its own without diluting it.

100g of soap paste will give you approximately 200ml of liquid soap. Use more or less depending on how much soap you need. Measure the amount back into the slow cooker.

Add the distilled water and glycerine to dilute the soap paste. Multiply the weight of the soap paste you’re using by 0.8 — this is how much distilled water you add to the slow cooker. Multiply the weight of the soap paste you’re using by 0.2 — this is how much vegetable glycerine you add to the slow cooker.

Turn the slow cooker on to high and warm the contents through. Gently stir, turn the heat to keep warm, and leave for an hour. Come back after that time, stir again, squish any blobs gently, and turn the heat off. Cover the slow cooker with a towel and leave it to sit for several hours, if not overnight. The soap paste will go soft and mushy in the same way that a bar of soap will do if you leave it sitting in water. If you come back and it’s not fully soft, you can add a little more heat and more gentle stirring. It’s not an exact science, this part, and patience is essential.

When it looks fairly liquid, cool it completely, and strain the soap through a sieve into another bowl. This will catch any chunks of soap paste. Add 10-20 drops of essential oil (per 200ml) if you wish, the preservative if you’re using one, and bottle it up in squeezy bottles or pump bottles. It’s ready to use immediately. Keyword soap, soap recipe Tried this recipe? Let us know how it was!

Further resources for making liquid soap

If you’re interested in learning more about the art of making liquid soap, shampoo, and other liquid cleansers, check out these resources:

Tutorial: Shaving Soap Recipe with Stearic Acid

Tutorial: Shaving Soap Recipe with Stearic Acid

Last year, Veronica shared her palm-free shaving soap recipe, and it’s been quite the hit! However, a lot of soapmakers have been requesting two modifications:

A wet shaving soap formula with palm oil (not palm-free)

A palm free shaving soap formula without soy

Today, we’re going to tackle the first request: a traditional shaving soap made with stearic acid, which is often derived from palm oil (and sometimes, animal fats.) We’ll have to dive into a palm-free and soy-free version another time (but yes, it is possible!)

Tutorial: Shaving Soap Recipe with Stearic Acid

This shaving soap recipe can be poured into a cylindrical mold and cut into bars, poured into individual cavity molds, or poured directly in tins. It’s completely up to you! The soap during the pour is extremely smooth due to the higher water content, and the inclusion of sodium lactate. With each section, I’ve included notes as to why the formula is written how it is and should give you enough information to make decisions about making any changes!

This shaving soap recipe with stearic acid is sized for a small batch, giving you about ten shaving soaps coming in around 3.5 to 4 ounces each. You can resize it using a lye calculator for whichever mold works for you. As requested, the formula includes percentages for your convenience.

(If you aren’t sure how much soap your mold holds, you can find out with this guide to resizing your soap recipes to fit your mold.)

Shaving Soap Recipe Used

10.8 ounces Stearic Acid (45% of the oils)

5.8 ounces Coconut Oil (24% of the oils)

3.4 ounces Olive Oil (14% of the oils)

2.4 ounces Hemp Seed Oil (10% of the oils)

1.7 ounces Castor Oil (7% of the oils)

2.78 ounces Potassium Hydroxide (5% superfat)

1.67 ounces Sodium Hydroxide (5% superfat)

23.36 ounces Distilled Water (16% lye solution)

I bought these soapmaking oils from Soaper’s Choice.

This shaving soap recipe uses two types of lye, at a ratio of 2:3 (two parts Sodium Hydroxide to three parts Potassium Hydroxide or in other words, 40% NaOH + 60% KOH), which creates a softer soap that lathers easier. For a softer soap that will lather quicker, increase the KOH to 75% of the total lye amount and use only 25% NaOH. The lye amount is calculated at a 5% superfat, however, an additional ounce of oil will be added later that will increase the superfat to about an 8% superfat.

This shaving soap recipe also uses a lot of water (more than “full water”) to give the soap fluidity for easier pouring. Since this shaving soap recipe is cooked in a crockpot, you will see some water loss and evaporation during the process, especially if you uncover the crockpot a lot! I wouldn’t recommend reducing your water amount below 17 to 18 ounces (20% lye solution).

Essential Oil Blend Used

8 grams Ho Wood Essential Oil (23% of the blend)

6 grams Amyris Essential Oil (18% of the blend)

6 grams Folded Orange Essential Oil (18% of the blend)

5 grams Atlas Cedarwood Essential Oil (15% of the blend)

5 grams Turmeric Essential Oil (15% of the blend)

4 grams Juniper Berry Essential Oil (11% of the blend)

These essential oils are from Liberty Natural, but you can use any fragrances or essential oils your heart desires.

Additional Additives Used

1 ounce additional oil

1 ounce Sodium Lactate

0.5 ounce Silk Amino Acids

0.5 ounces Vitamin E

½ teaspoon Nettle Leaf Powder

¾ teaspoon Turmeric Powder

For this specific soap, I used one ounce of Argan oil as my additional oil, but this is where you can really customize and choose your favorite skin-loving oil without worrying about throwing the formula off too much. (If you want to replace other oils in this formula, you’ll need to replace them properly.)

I also added silk amino acids and vitamin E. Unlike other wash-off products and soaps, the lather of this soap will actually sit on the skin for a while and these additives add a little more love to the skin feel and post-shave skin conditioning. The sodium lactate is primarily serving as a viscosity aide, to ensure the soap is easier to pour into the mold or tins, but it has the double benefit of being a humectant, too.

I chose nettle leaf and turmeric as colorants, as well as for their purported skin benefits. However, as this soap is not a drug, no claims can be made about those benefits and their primary purpose is as a colorant.

PREP WORK: Weigh out your oils, place them in the crockpot, and set them aside.

In a lye-safe container, add both the sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide to the distilled water. I recommend adding the potassium hydroxide (KOH) first, as it will make a whooshing sound and bubble up a little from the amount of heat/energy created by a KOH solution. Once the KOH is fully dissolved, slowly add the sodium hydroxide and stir until dissolved.

In a glass or stainless steel jar/bowl (do not use plastic!), measure your additional oil, your essential oil blend (or fragrance), vitamin E, and your colorants (if using). These additives are all oil-soluble ingredients, so they can be prepped together.

In another container (plastic is okay here), measure your sodium lactate and silk amino acids. These additives are water-soluble additives, so they can be prepped together. Unlike cold process soapmaking, you do not want to add your sodium lactate to your lye solution. It will be added after the cook to make your soap a little easier to pour!

The dual-lye solution, the oil-soluble additives, and the water-soluble additives prepped for the shaving soap!

GET STARTED: Turn your crockpot on to low and wait for your oils to melt. The stearic acid will take a long time to melt on its own, and you may crank your crockpot up to high for a short period of time. Do not try to melt your stearic acid by itself – it will melt faster if it’s mixed with the liquid and soft oils!

Stir the oils periodically, as the movement of the oils will help spread the heat out and melt the solid oils/fats faster.

This shaving soap recipe contains a ton of stearic acid, which has a very high melting point. The melting process will take a while!

Add your other oils to your stearic acid, and stir the oils occasionally to prevent hot spots.

Allow the stearic acid to fully melt before moving on to making your shaving soap!

MIX IT UP: Once all of your oils are melted, you are ready to get started! If you turned your crockpot on high to melt the stearic acid, you will want to turn it down to low. Temp your oils, and if they are below 180° F (82° C) move right along with the next step!

Slowly pour the lye solution into the oils. When you do so, your lye solution will be cooler than your oils and will create a really cool effect as the high melt point fatty acids temporarily resolidify.

After pouring your lye solution into the oils, stick blend the lye solution and oils together. At first, they will accelerate quickly and turn into a texture similar to mashed potatoes. Keep stirring and mixing, and the shaving soap recipe will loosen back up.

Pop the lid back on your crockpot and cook the soap on low. Every fifteen minutes, stir your soap with a spatula so that the soap on the bottom doesn’t burn. (Meaning check your soap after the first fifteen minutes and every fifteen to thirty minutes thereafter, keep an eye on it! Different crockpots heat differently, and you could overcook the soap!)

(Based on comments, it’s become clear that everyone’s crockpots and methods for keeping it covered are greatly affecting their results. If your soap begins to thicken like a taffy but has completed the other phases pictured, stop cooking it and move forward. Refer to the photos below to identify the stages, the last photo in this series is the “taffy” consistency you should be looking for. There is no harm in ending the cook “early”, so don’t be afraid to act!)

When you add the dual lye solution to the hot oils, some of the fatty acids will resolidify. It looks like something is going wrong, but it’s perfectly fine!

Initially, the shaving soap recipe will hugely accelerate into the mashed potatoes phase of hot process soapmaking. Keep stirring and it will loosen back up!

Once the shaving soap has become a nice fluid consistency, put the lid back on your crockpot and let it cook. You could move forward with additives and pouring here, if you would like.

The thickest you should allow your shaving soap should get is like this – some translucent areas, but not all, thick but not unmanageable, still pretty wet and glossy.

WRAP IT UP: After your soap has cooked and gone through all of the above stages, turn your crockpot to the warm setting (if it has one!) Give the soap a few minutes to rest and cool down, stirring it helps!

(In my crockpot, I cooked this soap for about an hour. After lots of others soapmakers have tried it, we’ve discovered that different crockpots are heating the soap differently – your crockpot may run much hotter than mine! It’s not harmful to “undercook” the soap, the initial heat will jumpstart saponification.)

Once the shaving soap is below 180° F (82° C), you’re ready to mix in your additives and pour. It’s important to be prepared. Once your temperature starts dropping, it will continue to drop dramatically. If you wait too long, the soap will start to harden and will make it difficult to pour. Be prepared, move quickly (and steadily – the soap may not be caustic anymore but it’s still hot!)

Stir in all of your additives: you can add your oil phase and water phase additives separately or all together. Personally, I like to add the water phase additives first, as the sodium lactate helps loosen up the soap a little bit more. Using a stick blender will help incorporate the additives quickly!

If you are reading this before whipping up this soap, a common mistake has been adding the additives (sodium lactate, extra oil, vitamin e, essential oils, silk, etc.) before or during the cook. They should be reserved for AFTER the cook as they will help loosen the soap back up!

Add your additives to the shaving soap, including your additional oil, essential oil blend, vitamin E, sodium lactate, silk amino acids, and colorants!

Use your stick blender to incorporate the additives and smooth out the shaving soap!

POUR IT: It’s time to mold! If you are using tins or plastic jars, you want to make sure that you are not pouring too hot (consult your supplier for a melting point on plastic packaging).

The crock is going to be hot and heavy, so if you are more comfortable using a ladle to pour the soap, please do! For this tutorial, I poured some of this shaving soap recipe into PET wide-mouth plastic jars and the remainder in a mold.

(A few soapmakers have said they use a stainless steel ice cream scoop for portioning this soap into jars or tins – smart thinking!)

This shaving soap recipe poured into PET wide mouth plastic jars.

If you use jars and plan on selling this soap, you want to remember to weigh each jar as you pour the soap into the mold. Be prepared with a jar on your scale with the scale tared, so you can pour each jar in an assembly line fashion. If you pour into jars, you are welcome to pop the lid on the jars within 24 hours of pouring, just be sure the soap has completely cooled to prevent any condensation from forming inside the jar.

If you pour the soap into a mold, you will be able to unmold it within a couple of hours, but there’s no harm in waiting until the next day like you do with the cold process. When I made the final recipe for this tutorial, I was able to remove the soap from the mold and cut it after two hours!

This shaving soap recipe in both a jar and in a puck!

Wait, we didn’t zap test this sucker?! Nope, we didn’t. The amount of heat we applied to the soap and the excess water will help saponify the soap. KOH is notorious for being stubborn without added heat, but following these directions will give you enough heat for saponification to do its thing. You can still test the soap during the cook if you wish!

I recommend allowing the soap to sit for a week before using it, and doing a pH test to check for any excess alkali before using. If your pH is higher than 10, allow it to continue to mellow. If your pH is still higher than 10 after two weeks, there is probably an issue with your shaving soap: your scale may be inaccurate, need new batteries, or need to be calibrated; your lye calculations may have been incorrect, or you may not have cooked the soap long enough initially to jumpstart saponification.

Thick and luscious lather from this shaving soap recipe is due to the huge amount of stearic acid in the formula!

You’ll want to package this soap within a week to prevent excess moisture loss and shrinkage. Your final shaving soap should be a semi-soft consistency that is pliable with a little force, which will allow it to lather quickly on a shaving brush!

If you run into issues, Molly wrote a great beginner’s tutorial for hot process soapmaking in a crockpot, and it’s full of great tips.

This shaving soap recipe featured in this tutorial is a hot process shaving soap recipe, it is not palm-free or vegan-friendly. If you would prefer a palm-free version of shaving soap, this tutorial would be a better fit for you! You can make this shaving soap recipe vegan-friendly by eliminating the silk amino acids and ensuring your stearic acid is not derived from animal fats. It uses a 5% superfat and a 16% lye solution. Feel free to adjust as necessary!

Water Discounting Cold Process Soap: How & Why

Water and lye are crucial components of cold process soap. Water is used to dissolve the sodium hydroxide lye so it can interact with the soaping oils to begin the saponification process. As the soap cures, some of the water evaporates and makes a harder, longer-lasting bar of soap. How much water you use in your soap will depend on the calculator you use. You may also choose to “water discount” the recipe and use less than what is called for. If you’re unfamiliar with how the saponification process works, click here to learn more about the balance of lye and oils.

Using less water than originally called for in a recipe is known as a “water discount.” There are several reasons why you may want to water discount soap. Water discounting helps the soap release from the mold faster. Using less water also results in a shorter curing and drying time, as there is less water to evaporate from the soap. Soapers may also choose to water discount if the recipe contains additives that naturally contain water, like fruit or vegetable purees. Using less water can reduce the chance of soda ash and glycerin rivers. In addition, water discounting affects the temperature at which soap goes through gel phase. Water discounting has plenty of benefits.

Water discounting is a great way to avoid glycerin rivers (shown above). Learn more about how to avoid glycerin rivers here.

You may be thinking, “If there are so many great reasons to water discount, why don’t soapers do it all the time?” Some soapers do choose to water discount with every recipe. The trick is that water discounting a soap recipe can cause the soap batter to thicken quickly. Generally, the more a recipe is water discounted, the faster the soap thickens. This is because the lye solution is more concentrated, which speeds along the emulsification process. The water content also affects when soap goes through gel phase and how it reacts to heat. A fantastic (and beautiful!) demonstration of this is shown in The Ghost Swirl by Clara of Auntie Clara’s Handcrafted Cosmetics. In this post, Clara demonstrates wonderfully how soap is affected by water content.

Because a water discount causes the soap to accelerate faster, water discounts can make a recipe difficult to work with. If your recipe contains a large amount of hard oils or an accelerating fragrance oil, you may want to avoid water discounts. I generally recommend water discounting for more advanced soapers who are prepared to work with a faster moving trace. If you’re looking for more information, the All About the Trace post is full of tips and photo examples of thin vs. thick trace.

Water discounting a recipe can cause the soap to accelerate, resulting in a thick trace.

Technically, there is not an “absolutely correct” amount of water to use in your soap recipe. In fact, if you plug in your recipe of soap making oils into various lye calculators, you may end up with slightly different amounts. Water is roughly 22% of the total recipe (oils + lye + water) when calculated with the Bramble Berry Lye Calculator. Other lye/soap calculators may give a slightly higher or lower amount. The amount of water in a recipe is determined by the amount of lye, not the amount of oils in your recipe.

The important part of determining how much water to use in your recipe depends on the ratio of lye to water you prefer. Remember, the lye solution is created by dissolving and diluting lye into distilled water. A common dilution rate is 30% lye and 70% water. In other words, the total makeup of the lye mixture is 1 part lye to 2.3 parts water. When the ratio of lye to water increases, the mixture is more lye concentrated. For example, a solution with 40% lye and 60% water (with a ratio of 1 part lye to 1.5 parts water) is more highly concentrated, because it contains less water in the total mixture.

The Bramble Berry Lye Calculator produces lye and water mixtures with a ratio of roughly 1 part lye to 2.4 parts water. This ratio will change slightly depending on the superfat percentage of your recipe. For example, let’s take a look at two similar recipes for the Basic Quick Mix. Both recipes contain 10 ounces of oils. One has a superfat of 5% (shown on the right) and the other has a superfat of 0% (shown on the left). As you can see below, the water amount stays the same. But, the ratio of water to lye changes slightly; the soap with a 0% superfat has a ratio of 1 part lye to 2.2 parts water, while the soap with the 5% superfat has a ratio of 1 part lye to 2.4 parts water. Soap with a higher superfat has a less concentrated lye mixture than soap with a lower superfat.

You’ll notice that in this example, the amount of water actually stays the same. This example is technically not a water discount; when you use a higher superfat in your recipe you are actually calculating a lye discount! Kinda cool right?

The lye to water ratio of the lye solution will depend slightly on the superfat percentage of your recipe.

Some soapers prefer to not use the water amount given by lye calculators at all! For example, Amanda of Lovin’ Soap Studio prefers to double the amount of lye in her recipe to get the water amount. Read more about her water calculation here. How much water you choose to use in your recipe depends on personal preference, in addition to the oils, fragrance, colorants and additives in the recipe.

If you have decided that you’d like to water discount your soap recipe, there are a few ways to go about it. Let’s take a look at the recipe below from the Creamy Orange Cold Process Tutorial:

13.6 oz. Olive Oil (40%)

8.5 oz. Palm Oil (25%)

8.5 oz. Coconut Oil (25%)

3.4 oz. Cocoa Butter (10%)

4.8 oz. Sodium Hydroxide Lye

11.2 oz. Distilled Water

2 oz. 10X Orange Essential Oil

If you are looking at the total weight of this recipe (oils + water + lye), the water makes up 22% of the recipe. The lye to water ratio of the lye solution is roughly 1 part lye to 2.3 parts water. This is equivalent to roughly 30% lye and 70% water. Let’s do a water discount of 10%. Ninety percent of 11.2 is 10.08 (11.2 x .9 = 10.08). We can round this up to 10.1 oz. to make it easier to measure. This is the new water amount for your recipe. The amount of lye will stay the same. Remember, when you decrease the amount of lye, you are creating a lye discount which will increase the superfat of your soap. The lye and water solution will now have a ratio of 1 part lye to 2.1 parts water. Or, the mixture is now 32% lye and 67% water. This seems like a small change, but it can make a big difference.

It is possible to water discount too much. If your solution contains too much lye and not enough water, the mixture can become extremely hot and very, very dangerous. In addition, the lye may not have enough water to dissolve fully. In general, the absolute highest ratio of water to lye is 1:1. This means there is equal parts lye and water in the mixture, or 50/50. At this ratio, the lye is still able to dissolve, but will be very concentrated and somewhat difficult to work with. I do not recommend this ratio of water to lye. Some advanced soapers use a ratio of 40% lye to 60% water, but this is still an extremely concentrated solution, and may be very difficult to work with.

So, when should you water discount your soap? Technically, you can water discount any batch you’d like! Just be prepared to move quickly. You may want to have a backup plan if the soap becomes too thick. If you’re adding ingredients that give the recipe additional water (like purees) that’s also a good reason to do a water discount.

In the Pumpkin Spice Swirl Soap, pumpkin puree is added which gives the recipe extra water. A 15% water discount prevented the recipe from containing too much water.

A great example of water discounting a recipe to account for water-filled additives is the Pumpkin Spice Swirl Cold Process Soap. This recipe contains 2.5 oz of pumpkin puree, which contains water. It’s tricky to know for sure just how much of the puree is comprised of water, so it’s a bit of a guessing game. I went with a 15% water discount, which gave me a ratio of about 1 part lye to 2.1 parts water. I could have done a little bit of a steeper discount, but I wanted to make sure I had time to swirl. How much you water discount depends so much on your recipe, personal preference and comfort level.

If you have never worked with a water discount before, I would recommend starting with a 10% discount. This is a good starting point that you can increase once you get the feel for how your recipe behaves with a more lye concentrated solution. I would also recommend keeping your design fairly simple just in case! Layers are a good design option for experimenting with water discounting, because thick trace will help keep the layers separate. I rarely go above a 15% water discount; the only time I do is if I need my soap in a hurry and want to cut down on the drying time. =)

Just to summarize, below are some pros and cons for water discounting your soap –

Pros of Water Discounting:

Generally, the soap will be able to be removed from the mold faster.

Reduced water in the recipe cuts down on the 4-6 week cure time of cold process soap.

Less water can prevent glycerin rivers from occurring. This is particularly helpful if your recipe contains a large amount of titanium dioxide, or will become extremely hot. Click here to read more about what causes glycerin rivers and how to prevent them.

Water discounting your recipe can help prevent soda ash. Click here to read more about soda ash, including how to prevent it.

Cons of Water Discounting:

Water discounting can accelerate trace, which can result in very thick soap batter. Click here for more information on trace.

If your soap accelerates, it can make some complicated soap designs like swirls difficult to execute.

Water discounting can make it more difficult to work with accelerating fragrance oils. Read more about working with accelerating fragrance oils here.

Soap with a lower water content requires higher temperatures to go through a full gel phase. If you like your soap to go through a complete gel phase, water discounting makes this a little more difficult. See a beautiful example of this in The Ghost Swirl by Auntie Clara’s Handcrafted Cosmetics.

Do you water discount your cold process recipes? I would love to hear about your methods for discounting! It depends so much on personal preference, and I’m interested to know what works for you, and what doesn’t.

Dual Lye Liquid Soap

WhackySoaper said: I was actually hoping for a thicker soap and saving on some of the use of KOH because I’ve been making mostly LS and having to buy it more than I like, I have a lot of NaOHI I’m not using but wanted to do so if I could in the LS. Click to expand…

If I’m understanding your train of thought, you’re thinking about adding NaOH to liquid soap for 2 reasons:1. to thicken the soap; and2. to use up some of your NaOH.As to thickening the liquid soap, I tend to agree with the others that adding NaOH won’t result in an appreciable difference in the thickness. Personally, I think there are easier methods for building viscosity: keeping your dilution water at equal to or less than the paste amount (and having the patience to let it dissolve!), and adding table salt (you’ll need to have a high amount of oleic fatty acid to make this work).In regards to your desire to use up some of your NaOH, I say go for it. Given that NaOH is (generally) cheaper, of higher purity than KOH, and any given amount will saponify more oils than the same amount of KOH, you might end up saving some money. If you’re not using the NaOH for bars soap, why not try a small amount in your liquid soap? If I wasn’t a “why use 2 when 1 will suffice” kind of guy, I might even give it a go.

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