Top 46 How Long Can Ball Pythons Go Without Heat 12159 Good Rating This Answer

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Ball pythons can go about 6 hours in 75°F temperatures before it starts to cause problems for them and their body starts to shut down.General air temperatures in a ball python’s enclosure should never exceed 95°F (35°C)! Temperatures can typically drop to room temperature at night without negative effects, and may actually be more beneficial for the snake’s long-term health.The truth is that Ball Pythons spend most of their time hiding, and directly absorb heat through their belly. During the day, and in smaller plastic enclosures, this makes heat pads more than enough. But if they come out at night, it also needs to be warm enough for them to forage and explore without getting cold.

Contents

How cold is too cold for a ball python?

General air temperatures in a ball python’s enclosure should never exceed 95°F (35°C)! Temperatures can typically drop to room temperature at night without negative effects, and may actually be more beneficial for the snake’s long-term health.

Do ball pythons need heat all day?

The truth is that Ball Pythons spend most of their time hiding, and directly absorb heat through their belly. During the day, and in smaller plastic enclosures, this makes heat pads more than enough. But if they come out at night, it also needs to be warm enough for them to forage and explore without getting cold.

Do snakes need a heat lamp 24 7?

Snakes don’t need a light to be on at night. They benefit from a day and night cycle, which means they need light during the day and darkness during the night. If the light stays on during the night, the snake could become stressed, lethargic, and may stop eating.

How do you keep snakes warm without a heat lamp?

The following are 11 simple ways to keep your snake warm during travel:

Warm your vehicle before introducing your snake (if travelling in a car)
Pop your snake in a pillow case.
Use a hot water bottle.
Add plenty of bedding to the travel carrier.
Use hand warmers.
Use microwaveable heat packs.

How long can a ball python survive in the cold?

Ball pythons can go about 6 hours in 75°F temperatures before it starts to cause problems for them and their body starts to shut down.

What temperature is too cold for snakes to be out?

At cold temperatures, these reactions are slow and at warm temperatures they are fast. These chemical reactions are optimal at body temperatures are between 70 – 90 degrees Farenheit. Below 60 degrees Farenheit, snakes become sluggish. Above 95 degrees F, snakes become overheated.

Should I turn my snakes heat mat off at night?

Leave the heat mat on only if your room does not meet the night time low temperature limit for the animal in question.

How do I keep my ball python warm at night?

Heat Lights and Ball Pythons

Some household light bulbs will emit enough heat to heat a tank, but if your tank is larger, you will need some heat lights. Many snake owners use under tank heating pads to keep the tank warm but it can be difficult to maintain and monitor proper temperatures with heating pads.

Can I turn my heat lamp off at night?

Registered. I’d turn a heat lamp off at night personally, as the light may disturb them. However this may cause a problem if you have low ambient night temps. However, if you ditch the heat lamp and buy a heat mat instead, you can leave that on (thermostatted) 24-7.

What temperature is too cold for snakes to be out?

What temperature should a ball python tank be at night?

Tank Temperature

Ball Python Temperature Range
	Basking Spot	Night
Min	88°F	75°F
Max	92°F	–

22 thg 4, 2022

Breeding Ball Pythons without heat mats; how I keep my snakes in the tropics.

How Long Can Ball Pythons Go Without Heat? | Pet Keen

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Most searched keywords: Whether you are looking for How Long Can Ball Pythons Go Without Heat? | Pet Keen Updating Because they are cold-blooded animals, heat is key to a ball python’s survival. So how long can they last without heat?
Table of Contents:

Why Do Ball Pythons Need Heat

What’s The Best Tank Temperature for Ball Pythons

What Temperature Is Too Cold for Ball Pythons

How Long Can Ball Pythons Go Without Heat

What Happens If a Ball Python Gets Too Cold

What Can You Do In An Emergency If the Heat Goes Out

Final Thoughts

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Table of Contents:

Lighting

Temperatures

Humidity

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Most searched keywords: Whether you are looking for Do Ball Pythons need heat lamps? | BALL PYTHON BREEDER UK Updating Do Ball Pythons need heat lamps? Generally, no they do fine with a heat pad. This depends on their enclosure type, however. Keep reading to learn more!
Table of Contents:

Do Ball Pythons like to bask

How do I keep my Ball Python warm

Do Ball Pythons need a heat lamp and a heat pad

How do I keep my Ball Python warm at night

Table Types of heating appliance for Ball Pythons

Are LED lights OK for snakes

Overall are heat lamps bad for Ball Pythons

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How Long Can Ball Pythons Go Without Heat?

As a responsible pet python owner, you know that snakes require heat in their tank in order to survive. However, even the most responsible pet owners can’t prevent accidents such as power outages from happening, just like you can’t prevent your heat source from suddenly calling it quits.

In the event that either of those does happen, or something like it. you’re probably wondering how long your ball python can go without heat. The answer is not very long. Snakes can only last for a few hours without any type of heat source before their body starts to shut down.

What exactly could happen to your ball python if he does get too cold? And how can you keep your snake warm or provide him with a source of heat in the event of such an emergency? Don’t worry! With proper knowledge and preparation, you can make sure that your snake never has to go without a heat source for long enough to cause serious problems.

Why Do Ball Pythons Need Heat?

Ball pythons need heat because like all reptiles, they are cold-blooded animals. Unlike humans that are warm-blooded, snakes are unable to regulate their body temperatures on their own. That means that their bodies need to absorb heat in order to carry out all of their bodily functions, including movement, digestion of their food, and even reproduction.

When snakes are in the wild, they usually only live in areas that have a year-round warm climate. This provides them with their main heat source to keep them warm, but they also need a basking spot in order to warm them up even more. Snakes use rocks or sticks in order to bask and absorb sunlight so that their bodies can function.

If a snake is kept as a pet, then as their owner, you are responsible for providing that heat source as there is an absence of natural sunlight when kept indoors. A ball python’s tank requires a heater that will need to remain on constantly in order to maintain the temperature of the tank.

You will also need to provide your ball python with a basking spot so that he can raise his body temperature whenever he needs to. Raising his body temperature in this way allows him to perform functions such as digesting his food properly so that he can generate energy.

Keep in mind though that your snake will not bask all the time. He also needs a cool-down period in order to lower his body temperature so that he can rest. However, the basking spot will need to be available to him at all times as well so that he can raise and lower his temperature as needed.

What’s The Best Tank Temperature for Ball Pythons?

Different snake species have different ideal temperatures in which they can live comfortably. The tank should be separated into different areas based on temperature. Ball pythons require their tank to be a minimum of 75°F in the cooler area in order to survive. But the ideal overall temperature of the tank should be around 80°F, with a basking spot temperature of around 90°F.

It is possible to make your snake too hot as well, which is the main reason why a snake needs a cool-down location. If the temperature in the tank, but particularly the basking spot, is too warm, it can burn your snake. Any temperature above 95°F is too hot for your ball python, especially without a cool-down spot.

What Temperature Is Too Cold for Ball Pythons?

The absolute coldest temperature that any snake can survive in is 65°F. But since the ideal cool-down temperature for a ball python is 75°F, anything that is colder than that can cause your snake to become too cold and his body will start to shut down.

You may be thinking that 75°F isn’t really that cold, but you have to remember that most species of snakes live in subtropical, tropical, and desert regions. When temperatures get too cold in their natural habitats, they go into a period of brumation in which they conserve their energy and body heat by shutting down without actually dying.

Even pet snakes can go into brumation, which is similar to hibernation, during the colder winter months as this is part of their natural instincts. However, the difference is that snakes will still wake up every once in a while to eat and drink.

Generally speaking, ball pythons should not brumate as they are tropical snakes and it doesn’t usually get cold enough in their natural climate to warrant brumation. Since their tank is a more controlled environment and they don’t brumate, they can’t go for days or weeks on end without a heat source.

How Long Can Ball Pythons Go Without Heat?

Ball pythons can go about 6 hours in 75°F temperatures before it starts to cause problems for them and their body starts to shut down. Anything colder than 75°F lowers the amount of time that your snake can go without heat, and without brumation, temperatures below 65°F for even a couple of hours can usually be deadly for snakes.

Remember that ball pythons do not undergo brumation. If it looks like brumation is happening, it’s usually a sign that your snake is too cold.

What Happens If a Ball Python Gets Too Cold?

When a ball python gets too cold, it could lead to many health problems or could cause your snake’s body to eventually slow down. Here are some of the potential problems that could happen if your ball python gets too cold.

Illness

Snakes can get “colds” just like humans can. But the difference between snakes and humans is that snakes rely on heat to help them overcome a cold. Heat is also necessary to help your snake digest his food, which provides him with a source of energy.

Essentially, if a snake is exposed to the cold for too long, he can’t get any energy from his food. A lack of energy means that he can’t overcome his illness, which could eventually lead to his death. You can usually help your snake overcome this illness before it is too late by providing him with a heat source.

Hypothermia

Your ball python can develop hypothermia if it is kept in an environment that is too cold for too long, or only given heat for a few hours per day. This can also lead to your snake developing other health conditions such as a respiratory infection. Signs of hypothermia include skin that appears dehydrated, less movement, and loss of appetite.

What Can You Do In An Emergency If the Heat Goes Out?

If an emergency happens, such as a power outage or the heater suddenly stops working, there are some things you can do to keep your snake warm enough that he’ll survive.

In the event of a power outage, especially for an extended period of time, one thing you can do is invest in a small generator that you can hook up to your snake tank. It should provide enough power to keep the heater and basking spot on until the power comes back on.

Generators can be expensive, so if that isn’t an option, or one of the heating components quits working altogether, there are some things you can do to keep your snake warm while you go get another one.

One suggestion is to fill a jug or bowl with hot water and place it in your snake’s tank. He can get close to the vessel holding the water and use it to warm up his body.

Say that you don’t have hot water, or you’ve replaced the heat source and you’re waiting for the tank to warm up. Another option is to hold your snake close to your body while the tank warms back up. He can absorb some of your body heat in order to keep warm.

Final Thoughts

Because they are cold-blooded animals, heat is key to a ball python’s survival, and when kept as pets, they usually can’t survive for even a day without it. After just a few hours, they can get sick and their body will start to shut down. But in the event of an emergency, knowing how you can keep your snake warm is one of the most important things you can do to save his life.

Featured Image Credit: DWI YULIANTO, Shutterstock

Ball Python Humidity & Temperature Requirements

Temperatures

Because ball pythons are reptiles, they are cold-blooded, and that means they rely on their environment for the heat needed to regulate their metabolism. If the temperatures or humidity is off, the snake may stop eating.

Python regius is native to Africa’s tropical savanna climate zone, where average temperatures average between 68-86°F (20-30°C) over the course of the year, with occasional spikes up to 96°F (35°C) or higher. However, keep in mind that ball pythons prefer to live in burrows, where temperatures are cooler and more stable than the open air above.

Basking surface temperature: 95-104°F (35-40°C)

95-104°F (35-40°C) Warm hide temperature: 86-90°F (30-32°C)

86-90°F (30-32°C) Cool hide temperature: 72-80°F (22-27°C)

72-80°F (22-27°C) Nighttime temperature: 70-78°F (21-26°C)

Note the difference between surface temperature and air temperature. Surface temperature is measured on the basking surface (substrate, a flat rock, etc.), and can only be measured with an infrared temperature gun like the Etekcity 774. Air temperature can only be measured with a conventional digital thermometer like the Zoo Med Digital Thermometer. Just because a surface is hot doesn’t mean that the air is hot — have you ever touched a piece of metal on a sunny day? Even if the air temperature is mild, the surface temperature of the metal can get quite hot. General air temperatures in a ball python’s enclosure should never exceed 95°F (35°C)!

Temperatures can typically drop to room temperature at night without negative effects, and may actually be more beneficial for the snake’s long-term health. So go ahead and save a little bit on your electric bill by turning off heat sources at night if your home isn’t too cold.

If your home does get too cold at night, you will need a lightless radiant heat source to warm up the air, like a ceramic heat emitter, radiant heat panel, or deep heat projector.

There are a few ways to keep your ball python at the right temperature…

BEST FOR DAYTIME: Halogen flood heat lamp

Heat lamps are a controversial heat source for ball pythons, but in nature, heat comes from above (the sun), not below (ground). In fact, reptiles retreat underground to escape the heat, not to get warmer. So while heating mats and heat tape are the most commonly used heat sources for ball pythons, they are unnatural and promote unnatural behaviors. Heat lamps solve this problem by warming the air as well as the ground below.

If you are using a glass terrarium or other enclosure with a mesh top (ex: Maximum Reptile, Zen Habitats), I recommend using a dome-style heat lamp fixture with a ceramic socket and a built-in lamp dimmer, like the Zoo Med Combo Deep Dome dual lamp fixture. That way the mesh will create a barrier between the bulb and the snake, preventing burns. Plus, using two bulbs rather than one creates a larger basking area that will be better able to evenly heat your ball python’s body.

Be sure to buy white or clear bulbs rather than red, blue, black, or whatever other color you’ve found. My favorite halogen flood heat bulb for screen-top 4x2x2 enclosures is a 90w PAR38 halogen flood heat bulb, without the hexagonal lens. If you can’t get halogen flood heat bulbs in your area, the Arcadia Halogen, Zoo Med Repti Halogen, and Exo Terra Halogen bulbs are fair alternatives.

Reptile-branded heat bulbs are small enough to be installed inside a reptile enclosure if needed, although I do not recommend this if it can be avoided. If the bulb must be installed inside the enclosure, you will need a bulb cage like this to prevent burns.

What wattage should you use?

This is a common question with no solid answer, sorry! What wattage bulb you will need depends on room temperature, enclosure height, and other factors. What works for one person won’t always work for another, which is why I like dimmable heat lamps so much. When in doubt, try the higher-wattage bulb first and dim as needed.

If your room temperature tends to fluctuate by season, consider purchasing a proportional thermostat like the Herpstat EZ1, which is the top performing proportional stat in the US at its price point. Unlike non-proportional thermostats, which switch a heat source on and off in order to maintain the target temperature (this can be very annoying when you’re using a light-based heat source), proportional thermostats simply dim the heat source instead.

PRO TIP: Beware “environmentally-friendly” light bulbs. These bulbs advertise a high wattage, but actually use fewer watts while maintaining the same light output as the advertised wattage. This is great for household lighting, but in a reptile enclosure you need the warmth that extra energy expenditure provides. If you can’t find a good bulb, a reptile day bulb from a pet store works, too, although it will likely have a shorter lifespan.

For best results, place a large, flat slab of rock (flagstone or similar) directly under the heat lamp, along with the warm hide. This is the perfect way to create an ideal basking surface. It also helps transfer heat to the warm hide, which should be placed directly under the basking rock (I find that black plastic hide boxes work GREAT for this). If your warm hide still isn’t getting warm enough, you will need help from a thermostat-controlled heat mat.

GOOD: Heat pad

Many snake keepers use a heat pad as their primary heat source of choice, covering about 1/3 of the terrarium’s floor space. However, I prefer and recommend using heat pads as a secondary heat source to help make sure the warm hide is staying at an optimal temperature.

Fluker’s and Ultratherm are the most popular, and mats designed for seed germination have also been used successfully.

Whichever you choose, keep in mind that heat pads have a nasty tendency to overheat, so make sure to buy a thermostat along with it so you don’t accidentally burn your snake. Most people prefer the low cost of non-proportional thermostats for use with heat pads, such as Jump Start and Vivosun. For something higher quality and much less likely to fail (read: safer), consider the Herpstat EZ1.

Once you have your heat pad placed 1″ under the substrate under your snake’s warm hide, and connected to the thermostat, place the thermostat’s probe inside your ball python’s warm hide, resting on the substrate. By placing the probe on your snake’s level, you will know and be able to control exactly what temperature s/he is experiencing.

I made the mistake of using a heat pad sans thermostat once, and it not only warped the plastic tub, but also changed the color of the wood beneath. The snake was, fortunately, safe, but I had unwittingly kept a major fire hazard in my reptile room during those months.

OKAY: Radiant heat panel

Like a heat lamp, but weaker. These are generally preferred by large snake keepers or keepers with particularly large enclosures because radiant heat panels excel at creating large areas of warmth. Because they’re installed on top of the enclosure, burn/fire risk is lessened compared to heat mats or heat tape. Heat panels must be regulated by a proportional (dimming) thermostat to be used safely.

Heat panels can be purchased at Reptile Basics.

DO NOT USE HEAT ROCKS!

For some unfathomable reason, heat rocks are still on the market, recommended by pet stores as a “safe” source of heat for your snake. Though safety improvements have been made in recent years, they are still dangerous. Furthermore, they’re not a good choice for heating your enclosure, as it only warms the rock, not the surrounding air.

Humidity

Ball pythons need some humidity to maintain proper respiratory health and to shed their skin correctly. In the wild, average humidity ranges roughly between 45-75%, with dips down to 30% and spikes up to 90%. In your enclosure, humidity should generally stay between 45-75%, although occasional short dips and spikes are not likely to be harmful.

Keep tabs on both temperature and humidity with a digital thermometer/hygrometer — the humidity probe should be placed in the middle of the enclosure to monitor average humidity, although it is helpful to have another humidity probe in the humid hide to make sure it stays moist.

Of course, even when you use the right substrate, maintaining high levels of humidity can be tricky, especially if you live in a dry climate or if the enclosure is well ventilated. Here are some tips:

Use a thick layer of substrate — at least 4″. The more substrate you have, the more moisture it can hold.

— at least 4″. The more substrate you have, the more moisture it can hold. Set aside time each week to manually mix or pour water into the substrate until it’s damp, but not wet. While misting only touches the surface, having moisture in the substrate stabilizes humidity for longer periods of time.

Daily misting (preferably in the morning and/or at night) with a traditional spray bottle can give you hand cramps, so use a pressure sprayer like the a lot easier. (preferably in the morning and/or at night) with a traditional spray bottle can give you hand cramps, so use a pressure sprayer like the Exo Terra Pressure Sprayer to make lifeeasier.

Install a humid hideout somewhere in the middle to cool end of the enclosure. This makes sure your snake always has somewhere humid to go when needed. Simply line a reptile hide or cave with moistened sphagnum moss to encourage high humidity, and replace the moss frequently to prevent mold from developing.

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Keep reading:

Do Ball Pythons need heat lamps?

Do Ball Pythons need heat lamps? Generally, no they do fine with a heat pad. This depends on their enclosure type, however. Keep reading to learn more!

We’ve all heard this generalisation from so-called experts: “The sun heats everything so snakes need heat from above, not a heat mat.” For diurnal, heliophilic species this is absolutely true. For Ball Pythons, however, it really isn’t! In fact, a heat lamp is only necessary for them in certain enclosure types.

Do Ball Pythons like to bask?

Something that adds to the complexity of this question is the fact that Ball python basking behaviour is often wilfully misinterpreted. People say they’ve seen a Ball Python basking, so it must enjoy basking…

Using that kind of logic, you could say that you’ve seen me go to work, so I must enjoy that. Guess what: I don’t! I guess finding a way to claim that Ball Pythons like to bask is a terrific way to sell more UVB bulbs. If you read this article, you will know that they are in fact unnecessary for nocturnal snakes like these.

Like me, Ball Pythons are pragmatic and do what they must to survive. The reality of the situation is that they are not a truly heliophilic (sun-loving) species. Instead, they simply know when they are too cool and need to warm up.

In the wild, Ball pythons will bask when incubating eggs. If they’re hiding area is too cool, they will also bask. Conversely, if their hiding area is too warm, they will lay out in front of it – again appearing to bask.

For Ball Pythons, basking is a tool. It’s not an activity that they enjoy. As a species that is commonly prey to larger birds, reptiles and mammals, Ball Pythons probably feel uneasy at best when basking. This why when provided with heat mats, they almost never appear to bask.

Moreover, in the wild it is extremely uncommon to find them outside of a burrow or hide during the day – just check out this video to see for yourself! It shows Stefan Broghammer finding Ball Pythons in the wild in Ghana.

How do I keep my Ball Python warm?

Heat lamps do work, in certain setups. In fact, ceramic heat emitters – which are basically a heat lamp that produces no light – are powerful enough to heat large enclosures such as those of Boa Constrictors.

They just have an extremely negative effect on humidity. you could expect an enclosure with a large ceramic heat emitter in it to have an ambient humidity level of 40% or lower. They also consume more electricity and have both a higher wattage and larger carbon footprint than heat pads.

Radiant heat panels/deep heat projectors work as well as heat lamps, in my opinion. They project a large area of heat and don’t generate any light. Their drawback, however, is that they are expensive and less widely available. That’s why this article is mainly focusing on heat lamps instead.

Heat pads are undoubtedly the most widely used heat source for Ball Pythons. They are low wattage, and incredibly cheap to run when used with a thermostat. Notwithstanding, they too have a drawback, namely that they work best with plastic tubs.

Tubs and mats aren’t the only option…

Overall, most long-term keepers use heat pads in conjunction with tubs. That is what I do, and what I usually recommend because of how well Ball Pythons do in them. That doesn’t mean it’s the only option, however. If you put in some work, you can make a vivarium or other large enclosure suitable for a Ball Python.

You can also make a heat pad work for this type of enclosure, but it needs to be in a special glass case to prevent burns and other issues. You can easily find these for sale online. In most cases, however, you will need a heat lamp of some description to maintain good ambient temperatures in a vivarium.

In summary: heat pads are best for tubs. Heat lamps (ceramic or not), deep heat projectors and radiant heat panels are best for vivariums. Just make sure you’re always using a thermostat and double checking temperatures with a digital or infrared thermometer.

Do Ball Pythons need a heat lamp and a heat pad?

Although I recommend using tubs for Ball Pythons, you can use vivariums and PVC enclosures successfully for adults. They just tend to be a bit overwhelming for hatchlings. Overall, it just takes more effort, and a lot more clutter.

If you fill up a vivarium with enough hiding places, branches, and fake plants, you can make it suitable for an adult Ball Python. The issue you will have, however, is that larger enclosures like these let heat escape very rapidly. It is in this scenario that I would recommend using both a heat pad and a heat lamp.

The truth is that Ball Pythons spend most of their time hiding, and directly absorb heat through their belly. During the day, and in smaller plastic enclosures, this makes heat pads more than enough.

But if they come out at night, it also needs to be warm enough for them to forage and explore without getting cold. In large enclosures, it’s very hard to achieve this with just a heat pad. All in all, I’d say that you will need a heat mat and heat lamp in any enclosure over 3ft (1m) long.

How do I keep my Ball Python warm at night?

The easiest, cheapest, and most obvious way to heat a Ball Python warm at night is of course a heat mat. As we’ve just seen though, this may not be enough to maintain a nice ambient temperature in a larger enclosure.

For these, you will also need some kind of lamp or radiant heat panel/deep heat projector. Because these last two options are still less common (and more expensive) we’re going to look at using lamps.

When setting up an enclosure that uses a heat lamp, it’s important to remember that animals need a break from light – especially at night. In fact, some nocturnal animals like Ball Pythons will slowly stop feeding if they have no escape from light.

If you use a lamp that emits light, make sure it is on a timer, 12 hours on, 12 hours off. During the night, you will need another heating method, preferably a heat mat.

Alternatively, some heat lamps either emit no light, as is the case with ceramic heat emitters, or only emit a less dazzling, red light. Most people call these lamps “Night-time heat bulbs” and they are generally reasonably priced.

Make sure you use the right kind of thermostat!

In either scenario, you would need to have both a heat pad and the heat bulb on their own thermostats. It’s important to remember that for bulbs that emit light, dimming thermostats work best, whereas for mats and ceramic heat emitters you need a pulse-proportional thermostat.

In some enclosures, you may notice that you get a nice, ambient temperature with just a heat lamp. Nonetheless, I still recommend using a heat mat under the hiding place located in the warm end of the enclosure.

Ball Pythons seem to enjoy having constant belly heat. Take it from someone who’s kept them for over 20 years and experimented with every single heating method and enclosure. In fact, if you set a heat mat to 88 -90f (31 -32c) most Ball Pythons will simply snooze on it most of the time – even if a lamp is available to bask under.

Table: Types of heating appliance for Ball Pythons

Appliance Pros Cons Carbon footprint Heat mats – Ball Pythons like them

– they keep them warm while hiding

– work well with tubs – struggle to heat large enclosures

– less convenient for vivariums very low Basking heat lamps – better for heating large enclosures – lower humidity

– need to be turned off at night

– can be stressful for shy Ball Pythons

high Nighttime heat lamps (red or blue) – better for heating large enclosures

– won’t disturb nocturnal species like Ball Pythons – lower humidity

high Ceramic heat emitters – can heat large enclosures efficiently

– produce no light – dramatically lower humidity high Radiant heat panels / deep heat projectors – can heat large enclosures

– produce no light

– can be mounted on the wall or ceiling of enclosure – initial purchase can be expensive low

Are LED lights OK for snakes?

If you’re using a big enclosure, and you’re happy with a night-time bulb that produces red light, or a ceramic heat emitter that produces no light – then great! Problem solved!

What if you’ve gone to a lot of effort to make the enclosure, though? What if it is intended to be the centre piece of your spare room or study, for example? I wouldn’t blame you for at least wanting to be able to see inside it.

In this case, it is totally fine to use an LED lighting strip to light the enclosure. LED lights are cheap, low wattage, and produce almost no heat. They can be set up in any type of enclosure and can often be stuck to the roof with adhesive strips. Again, you just to make sure they are on a timer, set to a 12 hour on/off cycle.

Overall, are heat lamps bad for Ball Pythons?

Heat lamps are only bad for Ball Pythons if they are if they are creating constant, bright light, or if they are turned off at night. They are also bad if they lower humidity too much, but this can be countered with misting and a humid hide (read more here).

In general, it is true that Ball Pythons prefer belly heat. It’s just how they are. In the wild they spend as much time hiding as possible during the day. We can’t really blame them – I wouldn’t want to get eaten by a Baboon or Monitor Lizard either. The result is of course that they are used to getting most of their heat through their substrate.

Where things get complicated is when Ball Pythons live in large enclosures. In these situations, they need an ambient temperature of around 76 – 86f (24 – 30c) at night so that they feel comfortable coming out to stretch and explore.

In this case, a heat lamp of some description is usually the best option for your pet. Just remember that in any enclosure over 3 ft (1 m) long it’s a good idea to also include a heat mat.

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