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The formula will be good for about 48 hours if refrigerated. If the formula has been left out of the refrigerator for more than 2 hours, it must be discarded.Opened can, discard if not used within 72 hours.Once opened, kitten milk replacement formula (canned or powdered) must be refrigerated promptly and stored in the refrigerator. You cannot keep opened kitten milk replacement formula out of the refrigerator for very long before it spoils. Think of it as fresh milk.
Contents
How long can KMR sit out?
Opened can, discard if not used within 72 hours.
Does kitten milk replacer need to be refrigerated?
Once opened, kitten milk replacement formula (canned or powdered) must be refrigerated promptly and stored in the refrigerator. You cannot keep opened kitten milk replacement formula out of the refrigerator for very long before it spoils. Think of it as fresh milk.
How long can milk replacer sit out?
Storage and use of unused portions exceeding 24 hours may promote bacteria growth and should be discarded immediately for the health and safety of your newborn animals. Excess formula that has been used for feeding (left in the bottle) should not be stored and should be disposed of immediately.
How long is kitten milk replacer good for?
Not for human consumption. Reconstituted KMR® must be kept refrigerated for up to 24 hours. Discard any reconstituted KMR after 24 hours. Opened powder must be refrigerated for up to 3 months or can be frozen for up to 6 months.
Do you have to refrigerate KMR kitten formula?
Storage: Unopened powder should be kept in a cool, dry place. Reconstituted KMR must be kept refrigerated for up to 24 hours. Opened powder can be refrigerated for up to 3 months, or can be frozen for up to 6 months to preserve freshness.
Does milk replacer spoil?
The average recommended shelf life of milk replacers is approximately six months under ideal storage conditions. Other considerations for storage include: Keeping it away from high humidity places such as your water source or sink/mixing area. Do not store directly in the calf barns as calves generate heat & moisture.
Can you leave cat milk out?
This product should be refrigerated after opening. It will keep in the refrigerator for just under a week. We suggest bringing it to room temperature prior to serving for your cat’s maximum enjoyment.
Should I warm up my kittens milk?
General Feeding Instructions
Test the temperature of the formula before feeding, it should be warm but not hot, around 100 degrees Fahrenheit. You can warm the bottle by placing it in hot water for a few minutes or putting it in the microwave until it reaches 100 degrees Fahrenheit.
How often should a bottle fed kitten poop?
Bottle baby poop should be well formed, mustard yellow in color, and should occur at least 1-2 times a day. If you’re concerned about the frequency or consistency of the kitten’s poop, please read more about healthy kitten poop and consult a veterinarian.
How many times can you reheat kitten formula?
You can pre-mix enough formula to last for 24 hours of feeding; but it must be refrigerated at all times. Discard all mixed formula after 24 hours. Avoid reheating formula excessively because harmful bacteria can develop in it. The opened can of powdered formula should also be refrigerated.
How long does formula last out of the fridge?
If made-up formula is stored: in a fridge – use within 24 hours. in a cool bag with an ice pack – use within 4 hours. at room temperature – use within 2 hours.
How do you know if formula is spoiled?
Any discoloration, smell, or separation of its liquid components are signs that the formula needs to be discarded. Once powdered formula has been mixed with water, its shelf life changes considerably.
What do you feed a baby kitten if you don’t have formula?
Homemade milk replacer for kittens1 • 6 tablespoons (90 ml) condensed milk • 6 tablespoons (90 ml) water • 1/2 cup (120 ml) plain yogurt (not low fat) • 3 large or 4 small egg yolks Blend uniformly and warm to 95-100°F. + Refrigerate between uses.
Can you overfeed a kitten?
Do not overfeed the kittens because it can cause loose stools and diarrhea. A well-fed kitten’s belly should be round, but not hard and distended. Smaller or weaker kittens may eat less per feeding and will need to be fed more often. Kittens need to be burped, just like human babies.
Is KMR good for kittens?
The KMR kitten milk replacer is recommended for kittens and other small animals 6 weeks or younger. It may also be appropriate for pregnant and lactating cats, and it’s available in 12 oz. canisters.
What is kitten gruel?
😻😻Gruel is a mixture of soft kitten food and milk that helps a kitten transition off bottle feeding. #
Bottle Feeding Kittens | Best Friends Animal Society
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- Table of Contents:
Warmth and bedding
Feeding
Weaning
Weight and hydration
Elimination and litter box training
A clean kitten is a happy kitten
Medical care
Kittens’ developmental milestones
Loving care
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KMR® Kitten Milk Replacer Liquid
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KMR® Kitten Milk Replacer Liquid
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KMR® Kitten Milk Replacer Liquid
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Best practices for storing powdered milk replacer – Grober Pets
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MILK REPLACER INSPIRED BY NATURE
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Will Cat Milk Replacement Spoil If Not Refrigerated? – Hyaenidae
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How Long Can Milk Replacer Sit Out
Does Milk Replacer Spoil
Does Cat Milk Spoil
How Long Is Powdered Kitten Milk Good For
How Long Can Liquid Kmr Sit Out
How Long Can You Leave Kitten Formula Out
Does Calf Milk Replacer Need To Be Refrigerated
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Homemade Kitten Milk Formula Recipes
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KMR® Kitten Milk Replacer Liquid
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KMR® Kitten Milk Replacer Liquid
| PetAg (en-US) Storage: Store unopened can in a cool, dry place. Opened can, discard if not used within 72 hours. May be frozen in single serving size containers for up to 6 … From cats and dogs to exotic pets & wildlife, Pet-Ag delivers quality nutritional, grooming & health products that enhance and enrich the lives of all animals. - Table of Contents:
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Bottle Feeding Kittens
This resource provides instructions for caring for bottle-feeding kittens (“bottle babies”) – very young kittens who have been abandoned or orphaned. It includes information on feeding, weaning, medical care, developmental milestones and more.
Table of Contents
1.) Warmth and bedding
2.) Feeding
3.) Weaning
4.) Weight and hydration
5.) Elimination and litter box training
6.) A clean kitten is a happy kitten
7.) Medical care
8.) Kittens’ developmental milestones
9.) Loving care
Warmth and bedding
For their safety, bottle babies should be kept in a cat carrier when you are not feeding or caring for them. The kittens must be kept warm. Use a heating pad designed and approved for pets (such as a K&H or Snugglesafe pet bed warmer), wrapped in two or three layers of towels. The top layer of bedding can also be a soft fleece blanket instead of a towel. Make sure the carrier is large enough for the kittens to have an area to move away from the heating pad if they are too warm. Kittens will need the heating pad until they are 3 to 4 weeks old.
Cover the carrier with a towel or blanket and keep it in a warm, draft-free room, securely away from other pets. Check the bedding several times a day for messes. Bedding should be changed at least once a day, more often if the kittens soil the bedding.
A kitten’s ideal body temperature is 100 to 102 degrees. A kitten who feels cold and is unresponsive should be warmed immediately. Never attempt to feed a cold kitten. Place the kitten on an approved heating pad safely wrapped in two or three layers of towels. Turn the kitten side to side every 5 minutes. To stimulate blood flow, you may, ever so gently, massage the kitten with hand-rubbing. If the kitten does not respond within 20 to 30 minutes, contact your medical staff immediately.
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Feeding
Do not feed cow’s milk to kittens, as it does not have the proper nutrition for them. Cow’s milk will also cause diarrhea, a possibly life-threatening condition for young kittens. Only feed your kittens an approved kitten formula. Hoskins, a homemade formula, is ideal. You may also use KMR, a powdered commercial formula. The recipe for Hoskins and instructions for mixing KMR are below.
Hoskins formula 3 oz. goat’s milk
3 oz. water
4 oz. plain full-fat yogurt
3 egg yolks
The formula will be good for about 48 hours if refrigerated. If the formula has been left out of the refrigerator for more than 2 hours, it must be discarded.
KMR powdered formula Use 1 part formula to 2 parts water. A part is whatever you are using to measure with. For example, if you’re using a tablespoon for measuring, this would mean 1 tablespoon of powdered KMR and 2 tablespoons of water.
Formula that has been in the refrigerator must be warmed to just above room temperature. Place the bottle in a bowl of shallow water, then heat in the microwave for 10 seconds. Or you may place the bottle in a bowl of hot water for a few minutes. If mixing up fresh KMR powder formula, use warm water. Before feeding the kittens, always test the temperature of the formula by placing a few drops on your inner wrist to be sure it is not too hot. Always wash your hands well with soap and water before and after feeding the kittens. Bottles should be cleaned thoroughly before each use.
When bottle nipples are brand new, you will need to cut a hole in the top. Cut an X in the tip of the nipple using small, sharp scissors. Or you can burn a hole in the nipple using a large needle. Heat the needle with a match, then poke it through the nipple tip. It may take a few attempts to make the hole the correct size. Once the hole is made, test it by placing the nipple on a bottle of formula and turning the bottle upside down. The formula should drip slowly out of the hole. If the hole is too big, the kittens will ingest too much formula too fast; if it is too small, they will have to work harder to eat and won’t eat as much as they should.
To prevent the possibility of spreading viruses between the kittens and other pets in your house, keep a “kitten gown” (a robe, sweatshirt, etc.) in the kittens’ room to wear during feeding and handling of the kittens. You may also wear gloves if you wish, and remember to always wash your hands well before and after feeding your bottle babies.
Never feed a kitten on his back. The kitten should be on his stomach in a position similar to how he would lay next to his mother to nurse. You may try holding the kitten upright swaddled in a warm towel or have the kitten lay on a towel in your lap. Experiment with what position works best for you and the kitten.
Turn the bottle upside down and allow a drop of formula to come out. Place the bottle nipple in the kitten’s mouth and gently move it back and forth, holding the bottle at a 45-degree angle to keep air from getting into the kitten’s stomach. This movement should encourage the kitten to start eating. If at first you don’t succeed, wait a few minutes and try again. Usually the kitten will latch on and begin to suckle. If the bottle appears to be collapsing, gently remove the nipple from the kitten’s mouth and let more air return to the bottle.
Allow the kitten to suckle at his own pace. If a kitten refuses to suckle, try stroking the kitten’s back or gently rubbing her on her forehead. This stroking is similar to momma cat’s cleaning and it may stimulate the kitten to nurse. If this doesn’t work, try rubbing some Karo Syrup on the kitten’s lips. If the kitten still doesn’t want to nurse, contact your medical staff immediately.
Do not attempt to feed a kitten who is chilled because it can have serious health consequences. Try warming the kitten as described above. If you are unable to warm the kitten, contact your medical staff immediately.
A kitten should eat about 8 milliliters (mls) of formula per ounce of body weight per day. For example, a kitten who weighs 4 ounces should eat about 32 mls of formula per day. To determine how much to give at each feeding, divide the total amount of formula per day by the number of feedings. For example, if you’re going to feed 32 mls per day and do 7 feedings per day (approximately every three hours), that would mean giving 4.5 mls per feeding.
Nursing bottles are marked with measurements, so it’s easy to know how much you’re feeding the kittens. Please note that some bottles use ml for measurement, some use cubic centimeters (cc). They are the same: 1 cc = 1 ml.
Using a kitchen or small postal scale, weigh the kittens daily to calculate the amount of formula they need. Keep a log listing daily weights and amount of formula consumed at each feeding.
Newborn kittens, up to 1 week old, should be fed every 2-3 hours; by 2 weeks old, every 4-6 hours. Once they are 3 weeks old, they can be fed every 4 to 6 hours. Continue to follow the rule of 8 mls of formula per ounce of body weight per day, as described above, to determine the amount of food the kitten should be eating.
If you are feeding multiple kittens, feed the first kitten until he stops nursing, then begin feeding the next kitten, and so on. Once you have fed all the kittens, feed the first kitten again and repeat with all the kittens. Usually one to three nursing turns will suffice. When a kitten stops nursing, he/she has had enough. Do not overfeed the kittens because it can cause loose stools and diarrhea. A well-fed kitten’s belly should be round, but not hard and distended. Smaller or weaker kittens may eat less per feeding and will need to be fed more often.
Kittens need to be burped, just like human babies. Lay the kitten on his stomach, on your shoulder or in your lap, and very gently pat his back until you hear a little burp. You may need to burp a couple times per feeding.
Young kittens may suckle on each other. This is a normal thing, but make sure they aren’t damaging the fur or skin of the littermate they are suckling on. If the suckling is causing problems, you should separate the kittens.
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Weaning
Weaning may begin at 3 ½ to 4 weeks of age. Start by offering the kittens formula on a spoon. Once they are lapping off the spoon, try putting some formula in a saucer. As they master lapping up the formula out of the saucer, you can gradually add a small amount of canned food to the formula in the saucer, making a gruel. Increase the amount of canned food slowly, adding more food and less formula. Some kittens catch on right away, others may take a few days. To be sure the kittens are getting enough food, you may need to continue bottle feeding them a few times a day, until they are eating well on their own. Be sure to feed them what they need to be full, but don’t overfeed them.
Monitor the kittens’ stools to make sure they are tolerating and digesting the gruel mix well. If the kittens have loose stools, reduce the amount of canned food and increase the formula until their systems have adjusted. As the kittens adjust to the gruel mix and you are adding more canned food to their diet, you can also add more water to the formula mix. If you are using KMR formula, add an extra measure of water when preparing the formula. Instead of 1 part formula to 2 parts water, mix 1 part formula to 3 or 4 parts water. For the Hoskins formula, you may add an extra ounce of water to the recipe.
As the kittens eat more food and less formula, you will need to have a bowl of fresh water available to them at all times to keep them well hydrated. At this time, you may also add dry food to their diet. Add some of the watered-down formula mix to the dry food to entice the kittens to eat it. Gradually reduce the formula and let them eat the food dry. Again, keep watch on the kittens’ stools to make sure they are tolerating the food well. If diarrhea or constipation persists with the change in diet, contact your medical staff.
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Weight and hydration
Weigh your kittens daily, preferably at the same time each day, using a kitchen or postal scale. Kittens should gain about ½ ounce every day or 3 to 4 ounces per week. By 8 weeks, most kittens weigh about 2 pounds. Enter their daily weights in the logbook. If the kittens are not gaining weight or are losing weight, contact your medical staff right away.
A well-fed kitten should be properly hydrated. To test a kitten’s hydration, pull up on the skin at the scruff of the neck. The skin should bounce back easily. If it doesn’t bounce back, or goes back down slowly, the kitten may be dehydrated. If the kitten appears dehydrated, contact your medical staff.
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Elimination and litter box training
Young kittens cannot eliminate on their own. A momma cat will clean her kittens, stimulating them to urinate and have a bowel movement. As their human caregiver, you now have the honor of performing this duty. After each feeding, use a warm, moist cotton ball, tissue or soft cloth to gently rub and clean the kitten’s lower belly, genital and anal area. The kitten should begin eliminating within a minute. Kittens should urinate after each feeding and have a bowel movement one to four times a day. Do not continue to rub the kitten for more than a minute or so, since this could irritate their delicate skin. Gently wash the kitten after she is done eliminating using a clean, damp, soft cloth. Record the kittens’ elimination type and frequency in the logbook.
When they are between 3 and 4 weeks of age, kittens can be introduced to the litter box. Use a small cardboard box or plastic litter box with just enough clay litter to cover the bottom. Don’t use clumping litter. Adding a used cotton ball (from when you helped them urinate) to the box will help them get the idea of what to do next. Put the kittens in the box, allowing them to get the feel for the litter. Natural instinct will generally prevail and the kittens will begin investigating, scratching, and, within a few days, using the box.
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A clean kitten is a happy kitten
After feeding, clean any formula, urine, feces or other messes off the kitten using a clean, soft, warm, damp cloth. This action simulates how the momma cat would clean the kittens. If more cleaning is required, you may use a wetter washcloth dipped in warm water to loosen up caked-on messes in the kitten’s fur. Do not use soap or pet shampoo directly on the kitten. If you must use a shampoo to clean the kitten, add one or two drops of shampoo to a cup of warm water, then use the cloth dipped in this mixture to clean the kitten. Rinse the cleaned area with another cloth dipped in clear, warm water. Gently dry the kitten with a soft towel. Do not allow the kitten to become chilled. Once the kitten is clean and dry, place her back in the carrier on the covered heating pad, which should be covered in clean layers of bedding.
Kittens’ ears should be clean and dirt-free. If the ears are dirty, gently clean the area with a Q-tip; you may need to dampen it in warm water. Do not use ear-cleaning solution because it could be harmful to the kitten. Only clean the outer area of the inside ear, just the part that you can see; do not push the Q-tip down into the ear. If the ears are extremely dirty or you see signs of ear mites (specks that look like coffee grounds), contact your medical staff about treatment options.
Kittens may have some discharge in or around their eyes. To cleanse the area, gently wipe around the eye with a warm, damp, soft cloth. If the discharge continues, is cloudy, or the eyes are gooped shut, clean the eyes as directed above, then contact your medical staff for treatment options.
All kitten bedding should be washed separately from other household laundry using detergent and ¾ cup of bleach per load. To clean carriers and litter boxes used for the kittens, use a mixture of ¼ cup of bleach per gallon of water. You may add a tablespoon of laundry soap to the wash water. Do not use any cleaning agents that contain ammonia or are not approved to mix with bleach, since it could cause hazardous fumes. Be sure the carrier and/or litter boxes are completely dry and free of bleach fumes before putting them back with the kittens.
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Medical care
A veterinarian should be consulted for kittens showing any of the following symptoms.
Do not medicate kittens without consulting a vet first.
Diarrhea
Constipation
Straining to urinate, or not urinating
Vomiting
Upper respiratory symptoms: goopy/watery eyes, runny nose, constant sneezing, coughing, wheezing or labored breathing
Not eating
Lethargy
Change in attitude or behavior
Hair loss
Anything you are worried or concerned about
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Kittens’ developmental milestones
Kittens weigh about 2 to 4 ounces at birth. They are blind, deaf and totally dependent on the mother cat for survival. Some developmental milestones:
At 7 to 10 days, their eyes start to open. Kittens’ eyes are fully open by 20 days. Their eyes stay blue until they are 6 to 7 weeks old.
They begin crawling at 16 to 20 days.
They will begin to play with each other at 3 to 4 weeks.
By 3 to 4 weeks, solid food can be introduced, their first juvenile teeth are cut, and litter box training begins.
At 6 weeks, kittens are well-coordinated, running and climbing and full of mischief.
Kittens are ready for their first vaccinations and spay/neuter surgery at 8 weeks old.
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Loving care
Physical and emotional contact with you is extremely important for the growing, developing kitten. Early cuddling and gentle petting of kittens helps them to bond well with humans, allowing them to grow up feeling safe and secure with their human family. Playing with the kittens with a variety of toys will stimulate their minds and help them develop good motor skills.
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How do I care for and feed the kittens that I found?
First Steps
Prepare for bottle-feeding and proper care before you take the kittens off the street.
If you feel you must take the kittens in, wrap the carrier you will transport them in a towel for warmth, but make sure you leave air holes uncovered so the kittens won’t suffocate.
Check to see if the kittens are warm. This is more important than feeding. Never feed a cold kitten! If the kittens are cold, you will need to warm them up slowly. You can tell a kitten is cold if the pads of his feet and ears feel cool or cold. Put your finger in the kitten’s mouth. If it feels cold, then the kitten’s temperature is too low. This is life-threatening and must be dealt with immediately. Warm up the kitten slowly over one to two hours by wrapping him in a polar fleece towel, holding him close to your body, and continually rubbing him with your warm hands.
Determine the age of the kittens by comparing them to the photos and descriptions on the Kitten Progression: Week-by-Week. Newborn kittens need to be fed and stimulated for elimination every three hours around-the-clock.
Feeding & Elimination
Neonatal kittens (under four weeks of age) cannot eat solid food (canned nor dry) and cannot urinate or defecate on their own, so you must bottle-feed them around-the-clock and stimulate their genitals after every feeding so they can eliminate. For example, if you have kittens less than one week old, they will need to be fed and stimulated every three hours. That means you will be caring for them eight times a day — for example, at midnight, 3 a.m., 6 a.m., etc. If the kittens are unusually small or sickly, they might need to be fed every two hours.
Skipping feedings or overfeeding can cause diarrhea, which results in dehydration, a condition that can be fatal for small kittens. Diarrhea requires a visit to the veterinarian. As the kittens age, the number of feedings they need per day goes down. You can start weaning at four weeks of age.
Milk Replacement Formula
Powdered kitten milk replacement formula is better for kittens than the canned liquid formula. We recommend that you use only powdered kitten milk replacement formula from the start, or as soon as possible, to prevent diarrhea. Two major brands of formula are available: PetAg KMR® Powder and Farnam Pet Products Just Born® Highly Digestible Milk Replacer for Kittens. Both brands are available in both canned and powdered formulas. We highly recommend the powdered type to prevent diarrhea. It can be purchased at pet food stores, veterinarians’ offices, or online.
Make sure that the powdered formula you are using is fresh by opening the pop-top and smelling it. It should smell slightly sweet, like powdered milk. If it has a sharp smell like bad cooking oil, cheese, or chemicals, it is rancid, and dangerous to give to the kittens. Do not use any type of formula past the expiration date. Once opened, kitten milk replacement formula (canned or powdered) must be refrigerated promptly and stored in the refrigerator. You cannot keep opened kitten milk replacement formula out of the refrigerator for very long before it spoils. Think of it as fresh milk.
Tip: Using unflavored Pedialyte electrolyte solution instead of water when mixing the powdered formula for the first 24 hours of feeding helps prevents diarrhea and eases the transition from mom’s milk to commercial kitten milk replacement formula.
Best practices for storing powdered milk replacer – Grober Pets
To achieve protein and fat nutrient profiles similar to mothers milk our companion animal milk replacers consist of a blend of high quality dry milk ingredients and freeze-dried liquid fat. KittenGro and PuppyGro dry powder pouches have a shelf life of 18-months from production and should be stored sealed, out of direct sunlight, in a cool, dry location (at or below 25°C). Proper storage will help prevent fat oxidation and loss of essential nutrients, vitamins, and minerals.
Here are some tips and tricks to help keep your powdered milk replacer as fresh as possible and maximize shelf-life after opening:
1. Keep out of direct sunlight: Essential vitamins and minerals are susceptible to degradation when exposed to light, air, and heat. Powder should be stored out of direct sunlight, ideally in a cool dark location such as a cupboard. Placing the milk replacer pouch in an opaque bag or container will further block exposure to excess light.
2. Temperature & Humidity: To avoid nutrient degradation, fat oxidation, and fat-soluble vitamin (A, D, and E) losses due to heat or high temperatures, powder should be stored between 5 and 25°C with a relative humidity ≤ 60%. Dry powder should not be stored in the refrigerator.
3. Moisture free: Although the moisture content of dry powder is relatively low (<4%) powder will absorb moisture from the surrounding air, especially with increased humidity. High temperatures combined with high humidity can introduce moisture forming clumps and increase risk of spoilage, rancidity, and mold. Powder that is subject to rapid temperature changes (cold to warm and vice versa) will cause condensation forming clumps making it difficult to break up when measuring and reconstituting. To control moisture, powder should be stored with the pouch sealed, at an appropriate temperature and humidity. For long term storage, food grade moisture desiccants (moisture absorbers) can also be used. 4. Oxygen free: Due to the high fat requirement of our companion animal milk replacers, our powders are susceptible to fat oxidation when exposed to excess oxygen over time. Oxidation causes the fats in the milk replacer to break down, altering the nutritional value, flavor/taste, and colour. Powder not only absorbs moisture, but also odors from its surroundings. This can cause the powder to take on a bad smell or taste/flavor. To limit excessive oxidation and smell/flavor/taste changes it is important to keep pouches sealed when not in use, with little air left inside. For long-term storage, placing pouches into air-tight containers or transferring powder into vacuum sealed food grade mylar bags are also good options. Food grade oxygen absorbers can also be used. 5. Bulk: Did you know we offer our milk replacer in bulk? The waxy paper bag provides a shelf life of 12-months from production, however, repackaging into properly stored smaller portions is a great way to prolong the freshness of the powder. If access to a vacuum sealer is available, re-packaging into air-tight bags and placing into opaque containers or dark areas will maximize shelf-life. 6. Freezing: Powder can be frozen (re-warmed slowly) if product will not be used prior to expiry. However, it is not recommended to freeze the product if close to the expiry date. When freezing, re-packaging the powder into doubled up freezer bags with as little air as possible is recommended. 7. Shelf Life: Our milk replacers have a shelf life of 18-months from production, it’s a good idea to always check and record your pouches expiration date after purchase. If appropriate measures are taken to preserve the integrity of the dry powder (re-sealed, dry area, not refrigerated, out of sunlight and away from heat/moisture) our products are stable for the entirety of its shelf life after opening. Dry powder does not need to be stored in the refrigerator. 8. Label: After opening a pouch it is always a good idea to label it with the date it was first opened and the expiry date. This will help you keep track of milk replacer use and shelf-life. 9. Gone bad?: If stored improperly, there are a few signs that dry powder has gone rancid. This includes discoloration, foul odor, clumping, and refusal of milk (bad taste). If moisture has made its way into the powder, there is an increased chance of mold/bacteria and it should be disposed of immediately. 10. Wet Storage: Reconstituted formula that has not been used for feeding can be stored refrigerated for up to 24 hours in a separate clean sealed container. Storage and use of unused portions exceeding 24 hours may promote bacteria growth and should be discarded immediately for the health and safety of your newborn animals. Excess formula that has been used for feeding (left in the bottle) should not be stored and should be disposed of immediately. Formula combined with kitten/puppy saliva can lead to bacteria growth.
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