Top 16 How Long Do Ls1 Engines Last 12159 Good Rating This Answer

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The LS1 life is estimated at 200,000 miles by GM. Most engines have 100,000 miles on them.The motor is good for 200+ With proper maintenance.With normal or better maintenance, you’ll easily get over 200k. Especially if most are freeway miles. It should be well in excess of 100K. I’ve seen posts here that show mileage of 150K and more and still going very strong.

The LS3 is the go-to choice for LS engine swappers right now and for good reason; this mill makes great power and is about as reliable as they come. …
The CT525 and LS376/515 does away with the standard fuel-injection intake manifold in favor of a carbureted setup.
With its iron block, the LSX376-B8 is built for boost.

Contents

How many miles is an LS1 good for?

The motor is good for 200+ With proper maintenance.

How long does a 5.7 LS1 last?

With normal or better maintenance, you’ll easily get over 200k. Especially if most are freeway miles. It should be well in excess of 100K. I’ve seen posts here that show mileage of 150K and more and still going very strong.

Are LS1 engines reliable?

Is the LS1 engine reliable? When left completely stock the LS1 is a very reliable and dependable engine. When modified, the LS1 becomes a bit more problematic. The biggest issue with the LS1 is that when things do break they are generally quite expensive to fix.

Which LS engine is most reliable?

The LS3 is the go-to choice for LS engine swappers right now and for good reason; this mill makes great power and is about as reliable as they come. …
The CT525 and LS376/515 does away with the standard fuel-injection intake manifold in favor of a carbureted setup.
With its iron block, the LSX376-B8 is built for boost.

Are LS engines reliable?

Having been in production for more than 20 years, the LS engines, through use, have proven to be one of the most durable and reliable engines around.

Why are LS Motors Good?

The main reason that they’re such a compact V8 engine is because of their “old-school” pushrod design, as well as all of the modern designs they used when designing the engine block. The push-rod design that they continue to use is unlike almost all modern engines that have overhead cams.

Is the LS1 5.7 a good engine?

As a starting point, the LS1 was an eye-opener for Chevy fans. Its all aluminum architecture made it significantly lighter than past GM V8s, and power was great: the engine was rated at 345-350 horses in the Corvette (depending on model year) and would check in at as much as 325 hp in the F-body cars.

How much does it cost to rebuild an LS1?

Rebuild with stock parts is probably going to cost you around $2,000 to $3000 give or take, buying a rebuilt LS1 or LS2 around $3500, and a new LS1 long block crate motor will run you a little over $4000.

Do LS1 engines burn oil?

It’s a fact: GM LS engines consume excessive amounts of oil.

Whats better LS1 or LS2?

The latest model of the LS1 engine came with an LS2 intake, which has better horsepower. With testing, the LS2 engine intake will make about 10 horsepower better than LS1. Both flow well, but LS2 is slightly better. For the exhaust manifold, one of the amendments made is a lighter exhaust manifold.

How much horsepower does a 5.7 LS1 have?

LS Family = Gen. 3, 5.7L, Aluminum Block, Car Engines

Performance Specifications
Compression Ratio	10.2:1
Horsepower Rating	305-350 hp
Torque Rating	335-365 ft./lbs

6 thg 6, 2017

How much HP does a LS1 engine have?

The LS1 was initially introduced in the 1997 Chevrolet Corvette C5, in which it was rated at 345 horsepower (257 kW) at 5,600 rpm and 350 pound-feet of torque (470 Nm) at 4,400 rpm.
…
GM 5.7 Liter V8 Small Block LS1 Engine.

Displacement:	5.7L / 346 cu. in.
Aspiration:	Natural
Introduced:	1997 model year
Discontinued:	2005
Predecessor:	LT1 / Gen 2 Small Block

20 thg 6, 2022

Are LS swaps worth it?

Reasons To Consider An LS Engine Swap. An LS engine swap is not done purely for cosmetics. LS engines offer a range of benefits over most other options. From their power to their cost and the ability to find one that suits almost any need, LS engines have become the most popular swap option, and for good reason.

What does LS stand for in LS engines?

Luxury Sport (LS) engines are the main V8 engines used in General Motors’ line of rear-wheel-drive cars. These engines are quite powerful, strong, and lightweight, making them a go-to for many car enthusiasts that love a mix of luxury and performance.

How much HP does a LS1 5.7 have?

LS Family = Gen. 3, 5.7L, Aluminum Block, Car Engines

Performance Specifications
Compression Ratio	10.2:1
Horsepower Rating	305-350 hp
Torque Rating	335-365 ft./lbs

6 thg 6, 2017

Is there a 5.7 LS motor?

The 5.7L LS1 V8 engine was produced by General Motors for use in high-performance vehicles such as the Chevrolet Camaro and Corvette, among others.
…
GM 5.7 Liter V8 Small Block LS1 Engine.

Displacement:	5.7L / 346 cu. in.
Aspiration:	Natural
Introduced:	1997 model year
Discontinued:	2005
Predecessor:	LT1 / Gen 2 Small Block

20 thg 6, 2022

How much HP does a LS1 engine have?

The aluminum LS1 is also a lot lighter than a lot of other engines. How much horsepower and torque you can get with an LS1 engine depends on when it was manufactured. LS1 models produced in the period 1997-2000 produce slightly less horsepower at 345 hp and torque than the models produced from 2001-2007 at 350 hp.

What vehicles have a LS1 engine?

LS1

Year(s)	Model	Power
1997–2004	Chevrolet Corvette C5	345–350 hp (257–261 kW) @ 5600 rpm
1998–2002	Pontiac Firebird Formula, Trans Am	305–345 hp (227–257 kW) @ 5600 rpm
1998–2002	Chevrolet Camaro Z28	305–310 hp (227–231 kW) @ 5200 rpm
1998–2002	Chevrolet Camaro SS	320–325 hp (239–242 kW) @ 5200 rpm

Ultimate LS Engine Overview

How long do ls1 Motors last?

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Average Life of a LS1 motor ????????

Quote: Oldvetter Originally Posted by GM has estimated the LS1 life at 200,000 miles. Most engines are only designed for 100,000 miles.

I don’t believe that for one second, I think most manufacturers nowadays design their engines to go at least 200k plus. Just look around you, there are a TON of cars on the road with well over 100k and they are still plugging away on their original engines. I have many friends will all kinds of vehicles that are past 100k. I honestly don’t know a single person who has worn out an engine at or before the 100k mark, unless they blew it up with nitrous or something.I personally think that a stock or mildly modded LS1 should have no problems going well beyond 300k.

The 5 Most Common GM LS1 Engine Problems

The Chevy & GM LS1 engine is a 5.7L small-block V8 engine produced from 1997 until 2004. The LS1 is part of the “Gen III” small-block V8 engine family which also includes the LS6 as well as the 4.8, 5.3, and 6.0 Vortec engines. It’s the successor to the 5.7L Gen II LT1 engine which produced up to 305hp and 340lb-ft. of torque. While the LS1 shares the same displacement, engine sizing, and rod bearings as the LT1 it was otherwise a freshly designed engine.

Most prominently used in the Chevy Corvette and Camaro, the LS1 produced 345-350hp and 350-365lb-ft. of torque. The LS1 was also built and used in Australia in Holden vehicles where it reached power levels of up to 400bhp and 405lb-ft of torque.

Built with an all aluminum block the lightweight nature and strength of the engine make the LS1 a popular engine for performance modification, capable of producing significant power with simple bolt-on modifications. Availability of LS1 engines and performance parts makes them common candidates for engine swaps into all sorts of cars.

Cars that use the GM LS1 engine

1997-2004 Chevy Corvette

1998-2002 Chevy Camaro (SS & Z28)

1998-2002 Pontiac Firebird (Formula & Trans Am)

2004 Pontiac GTO

Various Holden models in Australia

LS1 Engine Problems

Piston Ring Seals

Water Pump Failure

Bent Pushrods

Piston Slap (Oil Consumption)

Oil Pump Failure

Brake Rotors (not engine related but noteworthy problem)

1. LS1 Piston Ring Seal Failure

Piston ring seals sit within the piston head and seal together the piston and the cylinder wall. The seals maintain the cylinder compression and also reduce blow-by and help keep the combustion chamber free of oil by scraping and sending the oil back to the crankcase.

Each LS1 piston uses 4 seals, a 1.2mm combustion ring, a 1.5mm seal, and two 2.8mm oil rings. These rings on the LS1 are known to deteriorate quicker than normal. While they are sub-par on stock engines, modded LS1’s are a lot more likely to run into these issues. The rings come with very tight ring end gaps from the factory and the additional heat caused by extra horsepower can cause the end gaps to close.

Ultimately, when the ring seals go bad excess oil will seep into the cylinder causing oil consumption and blow-by. When the piston seals wear fuel and oil leaks into the crankcase which is eventually passed back through the intake system via the PCV valve.

Symptoms of Bad LS1 Piston Ring Seals

Excessive oil consumption

Blue smoke from exhaust

Piston slap

Rough idling, lack of acceleration, poor performance

Replacement Options

Bad ring seals is very common on LS1 engines as is piston slap which we will cover later on. The only way to resolve the problem is to replace the seals. However, we don’t always recommend this option as replacing the seals is quite expensive and requires a lot of the engine to be taken apart.

The best way to test the extent of the seal failure is to do a leakdown test. Leakdown numbers of 10%-12% are generally acceptable for street engines. We recommend replacing the seals once you are around the 15% range which is when the performance issues will start to be more prevalent. On track or race engines, the acceptable range is within the 2%-5%.

If you are rebuilding your LS1 or upgrading pistons, etc. we recommend going with a set of upgraded piston seals. Here is a good article on how to choose the right piston ring seals.

2. LS1 Water Pump Failure

Water pumps are the most crucial component of the LS1’s cooling system. The water pump is responsible for circulating coolant throughout the engine to prevent overheating.

On the LS1 both failed water pump and water pump leaks are common. The water pump shaft is a common failure point for the pump itself and the water pump gasket is a common leak spot. Gaskets naturally wear down over time. When the water pump gasket wears down it will start dripping coolant onto the belts, causing coolant loss and potential overheating.

Additionally, when the gasket wears down pressure drops within the system requiring the water pump to work overtime to flow enough coolant through the engine. Ultimately this can lead to the water pump itself failing. On a stock LS1 you can expect the water pump to run into some issues around the 100,000 mile mark. Water pump failure is more common on modded LS1’s as the added power and heat causes additional stress to the stock cooling system.

Water Pump Failure Symptoms

Engine overheating

Leaking coolant

Replacement Options

If you catch a gasket leak before busting your water pump you can simply replace the gasket. Although we recommend also replacing the pump itself if it is getting up there in age. If the pump breaks or fails the only option is to replace it.

You can either replace it with a stock belt-driven water pump or upgrade to an electric pump. The electric pumps are more expensive and will last the same amount of time as the belt-driven pumps, but they flow more. Additionally, they offer about a 10hp pickup as it reduces load on the engine caused by the belt-driven pumps.

3. Bent Pushrods

The LS1, as with most of the LS engine, is a pushrod engine (aka overhead valve) instead of an overhead cam engine. In overhead valve engines, the camshaft uses a cam-in-block style where the camshaft sits in-between the heads. The crankshaft is connected to the camshaft with a gear system. When the crank turns the cam follows. When the cam turns, the lifters push the pushrod which then opens and closes the valves.

On LS1 engines the pushrods commonly bend when the engine revs past the redline. The higher the revs, the higher the lifter lifts in order to let more air into the cylinder. On the LS1 an over-rev can cause the lifter to lift too much. This creates a gap between the lifter and the pushrod which can make the pushrod tilt out of place. The lifter then comes down while the pushrod is out of alignment, causing the pushrod to bend.

If the pushrods bends too much or snaps it can cause the piston to run into the valves, causing some serious internal engine damage. Additionally, they can rub against the guide holes of the cylinder head, wearing down the head and potentially leading to a cracked head.

Symptoms of Bent Pushrods – LS1

Ticking noise from engine

Timing is off

Cylinder misfires

Poor idling and overall performance

Pushrod Replacement Options

While you theoretically can drive on slightly bent pushrods, it can lead to some significant engine damage or a cracked cylinder head. Pushrods themselves aren’t very expensive and can be replaced pretty easily so the best bet is to replace any that are even slightly bent.

When you pull the pushrods, roll them against a flat surface to be able to see if they have the slightest bend in them. If you get lucky you only need to replace the pushrod that is bent. If you are unlucky you might need to replace the valves as well and even the piston if you fully snap the rod.

Outside of stock pushrods there is the option for a set of performance pushrods which are made of stronger, hardened metal and less likely to bend. There are different lengths and diameters you will need to be aware of depending on the modifications you might have. For those interested in getting tech-heavy, here is a good post on lifter preload and pushrod length.

4. LS1 Piston Slap

Although I put this at number four, piston slap might be the most common LS1 engine problem. Piston slap occurs when there is too much clearance between the cylinder walls and the piston rings. This causes the piston to “slap” against the cylinder wall as the piston isn’t sitting tight enough against the cylinder wall.

Aluminum expands with heat. Therefore, the pistons and walls are manufactured with enough clearance to allow for heat expansion. Because of this, piston slap most commonly occurs during cold starts and generally disappears once the engine warms up.

However, piston slap can also be caused by failing piston seals. A ticking or slapping noise during cold starts is very common and isn’t harmful to these engines. However, if you are still hearing these noises on a warm engine, bad seals are likely the case.

Piston slap also causes excess oil consumption as the gap between the walls and piston allow oil to seep into the combustion chamber.

LS1 Piston Slap Symptoms

Ticking noise from engine when cold

Excess oil consumption

Piston Slap Fix

Unfortunately there isn’t really an ideal fix here. The fix is new pistons and boring out the cylinders. The piston slap is normal and not harmful so long as it only occurs when the engine is cold. It can be loud and annoying but most folks just learn to live with it. If it occurs when the engine is warm then consider a leak-down test to check if your piston seals are going bad.

GM did release a service bulletin 02-06-01-038 with respect to an “engine knock or lifter noise”. The bulletin claims that a faulty oil pump o-ring seal leaks air into the oil which causes a ticking noise when the oil is cold and thickest. The labor is a bit expensive to replace this o-ring seal and it’s not a guaranteed fix for ticking noises, so we recommend ignoring this option.

5. LS1 Oil Pump Failure

LS1 engines suffer from oil pump cavitation. The stock oil pump is reliable up until the 6,000rpm mark. Above that the pump is pretty insufficient at delivering enough oil required for the rpms. Cavitation occurs when the oil pump can’t get as much oil as it is trying to deliver. When this happens, air gets pulled out of the oil and air cavities form. These air cavities get sent into the oil pump and implode from the pressure, causing damage to the internal components of the oil pump.

This problem can be further exacerbated by the service bulletin mentioned above. If the oil pump o-ring goes bad it lets air into the oil system which then causes further cavitation and pump damage.

The pressure release valve is a common failure point in the cooling system that can lead to serious engine damage. The pressure release valve prevents oil pressure from getting too high by allowing oil to run off into the crankcase. When this valve fails it frequently fails open, causing too much oil to runoff into the crankcase. The end result is low oil pressure which causes serious internal engine damage.

While the oil pumps themselves can fail the problem is most commonly caused by the release or bypass valve. Frequently revving your LS1 above the 6,000rpm mark further increases the likelihood of this problem occurring.

Oil Pump / Bypass Valve Failure Symptoms

Low oil pressure light

Gauges showing zero oil pressure

Replacement Options

Barring any catastrophic engine damage, the oil pump and bypass valve should be replaced. There are a few options for oil pumps from stock, to ported, to high-flow performance pumps. Melling pumps are a common replacement option. Outside of improved flow they also offer an improved pressure release valve and a secondary relief spring to prevent issues with the valve sticking open.

6. Warped Brake Rotors

While this isn’t an engine problem I wanted to cover it due to the commonality of the problem. If you are swapping an LS1 into another car this isn’t a problem. However for the Camaros, Corvettes, GTO’s, and Firebirds, the brake rotors are extremely prone to warping.

Warped brake rotors occur when the rotors are exposed to excessive heat. When this happens the rotors wear at an uneven rate, creating an uneven surface and decreasing braking capabilities. When brake rotors are warped they squeak when braking, can cause shaking or vibrating, and overall don’t brake as quickly as they should.

The trick here is to ditch the OEM rotors and get a good set of rotors. Some owners claim going through the OEM rotors every 5,000 miles and having to replace them 2 or 3 times. Brembo offers a set of OEM replacements that seem to be a favorite.

LS1 Engine Reliability

Is the LS1 engine reliable? When left completely stock the LS1 is a very reliable and dependable engine. When modified, the LS1 becomes a bit more problematic. The biggest issue with the LS1 is that when things do break they are generally quite expensive to fix. With that being said, there isn’t a lot that does break when left stock.

Piston slap is normal and fine, water pumps will naturally fail over time. However, outside of these two items, the more problematic and expensive common problems like piston ring failure, oil pump failure, and bent pushrods are mostly caused by adding horsepower and over-revving the LS1. Power (and excess heat) and revs are what make problems arise.

With that being said, these are commonly modified engines and they can be very reliable when modified. It just generally requires a good bit of money to make them reliable when significant power is added.

Outside of the items mentioned here, there are numerous items that will arise simply given the age of these engines nowadays. Suspension components, brakes, belts and pulleys, radiators, etc. are all common items that wear down over time and will become problematic at higher mileage.

A stock LS1 can handle 200k miles with minimal problems, but a modded LS1 likely isn’t going to make it there without some significant money spent in repairs and general maintenance.

Seven LS and LT Engines You Should Consider For Your Next Build

LS— and soon to be LT— engines are seemingly ubiquitous these days. Not only can you find them under the hood of most V8-powered GM vehicles, they have been hitting the streets since their introduction in the 1997 Corvette. This means that there is a menagerie of LS, or LS-based, options sitting around in junkyards and classifieds across the nation. And while junkyard builds can be awesome, sometimes you don’t want the hassle, or inherent risk, of resurrecting previously-loved LS engines. Plus, sometimes you want to get your hands on a direct-injected LT1 right away instead of waiting for some poor schlub to wrap it around a tree or put hundreds of thousands of miles on it.

Engines Highlighted LS3

LS376

LSX376

LS7

LSA/LS9

LT1

LT4

One company – Pace Performance – specializes in LS and LT crate engines. Greg Was from Pace helped us put together this list, and gave us some feedback and guidance on what crate motors are the most popular and why along the way.

With that in mind, we thought we’d provide a rundown of the seven best LS (and LT) crate motors that should be considered for your next build; in the off chance that you just want to drop something straight in and go. While we understand that most of these crate engines are not exactly cheap, for those who want to make reliable power without the headache of sourcing, machining and rebuilding, these crate motors make a powerful (literally) argument.

1. LS3

Chevrolet Perfomance— PN 19301362

For those that want a turn-key crate engine, it is hard to go wrong with the tried-and-true LS3. The gen-IV small-block produces 430 horses at just 5,900 rpm and 425 lb-ft of torque at 4,600 rpm— a solid performer for any project. Just ask the producers of “Fast and Furious 7,” as Mighty Car Mods discovered, every car built for the film utilized a 500-horse version of the LS3 under the hood.

Chevrolet Performance also offers the LS3 in E-Rod trim, which is 50-state emission legal and comes complete with exhaust manifolds, catalytic converters, oxygen sensors, EVAP canister, MAF sensor, accelerator pedal and pre-calibrated ECU. The motor also has room for improvement if you aren’t satisfied with its current power production, but if you are thinking of adding boost to the equation, you may want to consider other versions covered in this list.

“The LS3 is definitely one of our most popular crate motors,” said Greg Was, from Pace Performance. “I think most people choose it because of the different configurations it comes in, specifically the Connect & Cruise version.”

Cost: $7,911

2. LS376 480/525

Chevrolet Performance — PN 19301358 and 19301360

The LS376 is basically a spiced up LS3 and comes in two power levels: the 480, which adds Chevrolet Performance’s LS Hot Cam to the mix resulting in 495 horsepower and 473 lb-ft of torque, and the 525, which utilizes Chevrolet Performance’s more aggressive ASA camshaft to produce 525 horsepower.

“We typically recommend the 480-horse version,” Was said. “It is a little better for a street car, it has a lot better street manners.”

The LS376/525 also comes in several other iterations:

DR525 — While this motor has the exact same specs as the LS376/525, this is a factory-sealed motor that is designed as the spec engine for the National Muscle Car Association’s LS Stock racing class.

LS376/515 — This model swaps out the LS’s fuel-injection intake manifold in favor of a carbureted setup, for a more retro look. It also produces eight more ponies than its fuel-injected brother.

CT525 — This version is basically the 515 but specifically tailored for circle track racing by utilizing an 8-quart circle track oil pan.

Cost: $8,438 and $9,698

3. LSX376

Chevrolet Performance— PN 19260831 and 19299306

Much like the other motors we’ve talked about thus far, the LSX376 comes in two different versions; both of which utilize the LSX-Series iron block and are built with boost in mind. Neither of the versions come equipped with an intake manifold or accessories, providing owners the opportunity to tailor the motor to their specific needs.

LSX376-B8— This is the less stout version of the LSX376. Because of the iron block, the LSX376 is going to weigh 120-130 pounds more than an LS3 but will hold up to boost far better due to the intrinsic rigidity of its construction. The B8 is built with a boost-friendly 9.0:1 compression ratio and utilizes forged pistons. However, the connecting rods and crankshaft use standard powdered metal and nodular iron construction respectively. Chevrolet Performance recommends no more than 8 psi be thrown at it.

LSX376-B15— This version of the LSX376 is good for up to 15 psi according the Chevrolet Performance. This is due to its all-forged rotating assembly and, again, a conservative 9.0:1 compression ratio. The B15 also comes equipped with a higher-lift camshaft to take advantage of all that pressurized atmosphere.

Both versions of the LSX376 use stock LS3 mounting locations for the motor mounts and accessories, making it a great choice if you are looking to upgrade the engine in your current late-model GM ride in preparation for boost.

“The LSX376 typically isn’t as popular because GM reports the output without the use of a power adder,” Was said. “When you’re comparing prices without factoring in the added 15 pounds of boost, it’s obviously not going to make sense.”

But those in the know might want to take a look at the LSX376 for its capability to produce much more than just the advertised numbers with the addition of a power adder.

Cost: $7,495 or $9,974

4. LS7

Chevrolet Performance— PN 19244098

The venerable LS7 is arguably one of the most popular motors in recent history. Offering big-block power in a small-block package, this rev-happy large bore motor is just as happy at the drag strip as it is on the road course. And, with the ability to run a dry-sump oiling system, you never have to worry about excessive g’s starving the engine of life-giving lubrication. Factor in the fact that the LS7 comes with a forged crank, lightweight titanium connecting rods and friction-coated aluminum pistons, and this crate engine is giving you a lot of bang — and durability — for your buck. It also comes with CNC-ported heads stuffed with 2.20-inch titanium intake valves and 1.610-inch sodium-filled exhaust valves. We love the LS7 around these parts so much that we selected it to motivate Lucky 13, our fifth-gen road-racing-focused Camaro.

Cost: $16,503

5. LSA/LS9

Chevrolet Performance— PN 19331507 and 19269165

Until recently, these two motors where the pinnacle of GM powerplants and are still amazing pieces of internal-combustion wizardry. While both are similar in design, there are some significant design differences to be aware of:

LSA— Much like the LS3, Chevrolet Performance offers the LSA in several formats such as the E- Rod and Connect & Cruise. The E-Rod again comes as a 50-state legal offering and includes exhaust manifolds, catalytic converters and ECU. The Connect & Cruise option arrives as if it had just been yanked out of a CTS-V or ZL1 and includes the transmission, wiring harness and ECM. The LSA comes with a wet-sump oiling system and features oil squirters for cooling the underside of the pistons. It is sporting a sixth-generation 1.9-liter TVS huffer stuffing a tame 9 psi through the 6.2-liter mill. It offers a forged steel crank with powdered metal connecting rods driving aluminum pistons. All together, the mill makes 558 horsepower.

LS9— The LS9 is basically a beefed-up, more potent version of the LSA. Featuring forged aluminum pistons, forged titanium connecting rods and a forged steel crankshaft, the bottom end is nearly bullet proof. It also features a dry-sump oiling system, ideal for extreme handling duties and also includes oil squirters for cooling the bottoms of the pistons to prevent hot spots and detonation under boost. Induction duties are handled by a 2.3-liter TVS supercharger putting out 10.5 psi breathing into high-flow heads stuffed with titanium valves on the intake and sodium filled valves on the exhaust. The LS9 also offers a substantially more aggressive camshaft that helps boost (pun intended) output to 638 horsepower. While the LS9 is a potent power producer, its quality is reflected in its price tag.

Cost: $14,006 and $25,509

6. LT1

Chevrolet Performance— PN 19328728

You’ve probably heard all the hoopla about the all-new direct-injected LT1, which debuted in the C7 Corvette and can now be found under the hood of the sixth-gen Camaro as well. While it isn’t as big a leap forward as the gen III motor was in comparison to the original small-block Chevy, it is still a serious advance in technology. The LT1 features direct injection, variable valve timing and Active Fuel Management. The LT1 is also available in dry sump or wet sump configurations. The bottom end is much more robust than its LS progenitors and utilizes a forged steel crankshaft and forged powdered metal connecting rods. It also uses a substantially larger camshaft than the out going LS3 and ups the compression to 11.5:1.

The LS3 will probably continue to dominate the market until the aftermarket catches up as far as swap kits, engine mounts, exhaust and all that.- Greg Was, Pace Performance

If you’re looking to experiment with variable valve timing and direct injection, this is the perfect engine for you. And, due to its new features, the LT1 has a very flat horsepower and torque curve which means this motor pulls like a freight train all the way up to 6,600 rpm where it produces 460 horsepower. In addition, this brute makes more than 300 lb-ft of axle-twisting torque at just 1,000 rpm and keeps right on pulling to make a peak of 465 lb-ft at just 4,000 rpm! Stuffing one of these mills in your project is a great way to beat everyone to the punch because a lot more of these swaps are coming down the line.

However, the LT1 does require more creative problem solving when it comes to performing a swap on your favorite late-model or early-model GM car.

“The LS3 will probably continue to dominate the market until the aftermarket catches up as far as swap kits, engine mounts, exhaust and all that,” Was said. “We’re starting to get there with the serpentine kits, since you have to add power steering to the LT1 to be able to swap it in.”

Cost: $11,000

7. LT4

Chevrolet Performance— PN 19332621

This is it! This is the king of the heap. The most powerful motor that the General has ever offered in a regular-production Chevrolet. The supercharger, an Eaton R1740 TVS, is slightly smaller than the LS9’s at 1.74 liters, but is substantially more efficient and sees speeds of up to 20,000 rpm. The smaller supercharger also ensures that it comes up to speed more quickly. The Rotocast A356T6 aluminum LT4 heads are stuffed with titanium valves and the cylinders house dished forged aluminum slugs to help lower its compression to 10:1, which is still relatively high considering the mill sees up to 9.5 psi. The bottom end is comprised of a forged steel crank that is stronger than the LT1’s and is spun by forged connecting rods. If you’ve got the coin, we are positive that you won’t be disappointed slipping an LT4 between the fenders of your beloved project.

“It’s hard to beat the LT4 as far as price goes,” Was said. “You get 650 horses for a pretty good deal.”

Cost: $15,625

Which one should you pick?

A lot of these engines have positives and negatives, especially when you consider what you are building the car to do. Some are high-revving lightweight earth movers that are better suited for autocross events and track days. Others are heavy-hitting supercharged fire breathers that may be more at home on the drag strip, or iron-block behemoths that are ready to handle a butt-load of boost. And while the final decision will come down to what your projects needs, you can’t really go wrong in selecting any one of these mills to motivate your ride.

Let us know in the comments below which one you would choose and, in case you missed it, check out our recent build of an LSX 376B15.

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