Top 45 How Many Otocinclus Should I Get Top 93 Best Answers

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Otocinclus are social fish, living in shoals of thousands in the wild. Because of this, you’ll need to keep at least 6 in your tank – 10-15 would be better. Preferably in a 20-gallon tank, however, if you only want to own 6 Otos a 10-gallon tank will be okay.Unlike their large cousins, the Plecos, Otos remain small and are not boisterous enough to cause damage to plants. Although they are often purchased solely for algae control, Otos are social and should not be kept in groups of less than three.However, it is possible to keep a single otocinclus in a 10-gallon tank, but it’s not recommended. Make sure your tank has a sandy substrate as well as lots of live plants and driftwood. There also needs to be a good water flow. Otocinclus catfish are peaceful and won’t attack your betta.

Contents

Do otocinclus need pairs?

Unlike their large cousins, the Plecos, Otos remain small and are not boisterous enough to cause damage to plants. Although they are often purchased solely for algae control, Otos are social and should not be kept in groups of less than three.

Can you have just one otocinclus?

However, it is possible to keep a single otocinclus in a 10-gallon tank, but it’s not recommended. Make sure your tank has a sandy substrate as well as lots of live plants and driftwood. There also needs to be a good water flow. Otocinclus catfish are peaceful and won’t attack your betta.

How many OTOS are in 10 gallons?

Otos have a pretty big appetite for their size. I think 2 is enough or else they would starve if you added more. Generally I use an oto per 5-10 gallons.

How many otocinclus are in a group?

How Many Otocinclus Should Be Kept Together? Otocinclus must be kept in small 5-6 fishes in a 10-gallon tank. You can keep adding more fish by increasing the capacity of your tank.

Can Otos be alone?

No, otocinclus cannot live alone. You should only keep otocinclus in groups. A small group of five or six otocinclus would feel right at home living in a 10-gallon tank. With that said, wild otocinclus usually live in groups that have thousands of fish, so the more otocinclus you keep in your tank, the better.

How many Otocinclus Catfish do you need?

Tank Size. Otocinclus are social fish, living in shoals of thousands in the wild. Because of this, you’ll need to keep at least 6 in your tank – 10-15 would be better.

Do OTOS get along with bettas?

Unfortunately, otos do not make good tank mates for betta fish. Bettas are aggressive fish and need to be kept on their own when placed in smaller tanks; even females need to be carefully watched for aggressive behaviors.

Do Oto catfish need driftwood?

They should not be kept in brackish water conditions or extremely hard water. Do otocinclus require driftwood? No. This has been going around for a while, because some people confuse otocinclus needs with some of the “wood catfish” needs, such as the gold nugget pleco.

Are OTOS schooling fish?

When it comes to tank size, Otocinclus catfish are pretty simple – as dwarf catfish, they can be kept in aquariums as small as 10 to 20 gallons. While aquarists sometimes keep them alone they are schooling fish that prefer being kept in small groups of at least 6 individuals.

Are otocinclus good algae eaters?

The Otocinclus Catfish, or the Oto Cat is another peaceful fish that’s known for their algae-eating habits. They’re quite small, reaching only 2 inches in length, and do well in small community tanks. These little guys are talented at removing brown algae and new algae growths from tanks.

How many Nerite snails can be in a 15 gallon tank?

How Many Nerite Snails Per Gallon?

Aquarium capacity in gallons	Ideal Nerite Snails Count
10	2
15	3
20	4
40	8

31 thg 12, 2020

How many fish can I have in a 10-gallon tank?

Going by the numbers, however, you can put up to 8 to 10 fish in a 10-gallon aquarium tank. However, we would not recommend adding 10 fish in a tank unless the fish are tiny and do not generate too much waste. On the other hand, if you have chosen fish types that grow over time, you should limit the number to 8 or 6.

How long do Otto fish live for?

Adult Size & Lifespan

The average lifespan of the oto catfish in captivity is 3–5 years, as long as the fish is cared for properly.

How do you increase otocinclus?

Temperature: Otocinclus will thrive in warm waters that are consistently between 23 – 27 °C (73 – 80 °F). pH: Although they can take a wide range of pH (from 6.0 to 7.5), they still prefer pH a little bit on the lower side 6.5 – 7.0. Hardness: Neutral to soft water being ideal for them.

Do Oto catfish eat hair algae?

They specialize in eating soft green algae; often this algae is hard to see without looking closely for it. The otocinclus will eat it before it grows too long and gets out of control.

Are otocinclus hard to keep?

It is often said that Otocinclus Catfish care is relatively easy. But while care should be easy and straight foreword, keeping Oto Catfish can be tricky because they a delicate freshwater aquarium fish.

Do otocinclus produce lots of waste?

Yes, otocinclus produce a lot of waste. They constantly graze on algae around the tank, so even though otocinclus can help you control the tank’s algae growth, they are also constantly producing their own waste.

How long do Oto fish live?

These Otocinclus Catfish happily swim around with their round bellies, feeding on the tank or provided algae. By investing the $4 in one fish, you are ensuring that it will have a happy life living in your aquarium. A healthy Otocinclus Catfish can live for 5-7 years.

How often should you feed otocinclus?

You should feed an otocinclus two to four times a week. Despite its reputation as an algae eater, an otocinclus cannot live on algae alone. Sometimes, a stable and well-cycled tank may not be able to produce enough soft algae to sustain an otocinclus.

Beginners Mistake Common Otocinclus

Otocinclus Care Sheet: Expert Guide to Healthy & Happy Otos

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Most searched keywords: Whether you are looking for Otocinclus Care Sheet: Expert Guide to Healthy & Happy Otos Updating Otos make a fantastic addition to planted tanks by keeping it algae free. Use this in-depth care guide to create a healthy environment and watch them thrive
Table of Contents:

Common Names For Otoclinclus

Natural Habitat

In-Tank Behavior

Otocinclus Tank Mates

Otocinclus Aquarium Setup

Feeding Otos “a Fat Oto is a Happy Oto”

Sexing and Breeding Otos

Buying Otocinclus – Be Warned!

How to Buy Healthy Otos

How to Introduce Your New Otos

Infographic Otocinclus Care Guide

Otocinclus Care Sheet: Expert Guide to Healthy & Happy Otos

Diligent little algae eaters, Otocinclus are peaceful and would make an awesome addition to your planted aquarium.

They’re easy to look after, provide plenty of entertainment, and will keep your aquarium from being overrun by algae – as long as you keep them in the correct conditions.

And that’s what you’re about to learn in this Otocinclus care guide.

You’re going to learn how you can avoid the common mistakes which cause many hobbyists to lose their Otos in the first month.

And what you need to do to ensure your buddies live a long, happy and healthy life.

Common Names For Otoclinclus

Oto

Oto Cat

Dwarf Sucking Catfish

Midget Sucker Fish

Scientific Classification

Kingdom: Animalia

Animalia Phylum: Chordata

Chordata Class: Actinopterygii

Actinopterygii Order: Siluriformes

Siluriformes Family: Loricariidae

Loricariidae Tribe: Hypoptopomatini

Hypoptopomatini Genus: Otocinclus

Otocinclus Type species: Otocinclus vestitus

Natural Habitat

A genus of catfish in the family Loricariidae, Otocinclus are native to South America and can be found east of the Andes throughout the lowlands from northern Venezuela to northern Argentina.

Most active in the day, Otos swim in big shoals (or schools) and inhabit well-oxygenated, moderate to slow-flowing streams and small rivers.

Spending their time in the shallows and near the surface, they’ll cling to substrates using their mouth as a sucker and feeding on algae or aufwuchs stuck to roots, stones, macrophytes and broad-leaved grasses.

In-Tank Behavior

Super peaceful, if you house Oto’s properly they’ll show tons of activity and personality during the day.

Industrial workers, they’ll spend the majority of their time sucking away on rocks, leaves, or anything with algae growing on it.

My favorite is when they hang off the aquarium glass and you can see their suckermouth in full motion.

You may see your Oto rising to the surface for air because they have the ability to breathe the same air as you and me (could be a sign your aquarium water is lacking in oxygen).

This study showed they released air through their gills before surfacing, and when they returned to the bottom, they didn’t need to pump their buccal cavities. This suggests they absorb oxygen from the air when they surfaced.

Otocinclus Tank Mates

What you’re looking for, is something that won’t directly or aggressively compete for food, is peaceful, and thrives in the same water parameters.

Large and/or aggressive fish will frighten your Otos – they might even eat them.

Some Recommendations

Common Fish to Avoid

Cichlids

Goldfish

Jack Dempsey

Oscars

Otocinclus Aquarium Setup

It doesn’t matter which species of Otocinclus you own, they all require the same water conditions – low stock density and pristine water – depending on your water source, you may want to use an RO system.

You’ll need a mature filter capable of cycling your aquarium water at least four times an hour (GPH rating).

Keep nitrate levels between 0-20ppm (parts per million) and have no measurable ammonia or nitrite.

Otos prefer a stable pH, which is neutral to slightly acidic (6-7.5) and a water temperature between 72-82°F (22-28°C).

Stock your tank with plants (see more info below) and perform weekly 25-30% water changes to help keep your water as clean as possible.

Water Quality Overview

Filter with a GPH rating 4x the volume of your tank

Nitrates between 0-20ppm

No measurable ammonia or nitrite

Water Temperature: 72-82°F (22-28°C)

pH: 6-7.5

Water Hardness: 6° to 15° dH

Tank Size

Otocinclus are social fish, living in shoals of thousands in the wild. Because of this, you’ll need to keep at least 6 in your tank – 10-15 would be better.

Preferably in a 20-gallon tank, however, if you only want to own 6 Otos a 10-gallon tank will be okay.

Pro Tip: The bigger your tank, the easier it will be for you to maintain a healthy ecosystem.

Equipment

We both know water quality is vital, soI recommend you use a canister filter with a GPH rating 4x the volume of your aquarium.

You’ll also need a good aeration and sufficient water circulation, so try adding a water and/or air pump.

You’ll need appropriate LED lighting for your plants – you can see more information here.

As well as a CO2 injector and test kits to keep track of the ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels in your aquarium.

Tank Hardscape

Pre-soaked branches or bogwood and rounded stones will provide your Otos with areas to graze.

Be careful, make sure you avoid any objects with sharp surfaces.

Your Otos (and other fish in your tank) may damage themselves and create the ideal environment for disease to establish.

Aquarium Plants

Your Otos will graze on algae from your plants, so I recommend you use slow-growing plants.

Fast-growing plants will often consume the carbon dioxide and dissolved nutrients before algae get a chance to feed and grow.

Here are some slow-growing plant species you can use:

Anubius

Cabomba (mimics Otos natural environment)

Cryptocorynes

Echinodorus

Java Fern

Java moss

Feeding Otos: “a Fat Oto is a Happy Oto”

Otos love to constantly graze on soft green algae growing on your substrate, decorations, aquarium glass, and plants.

You don’t want to confuse soft green algae with Green Spot Algae. GSA is extremely tough to remove and Otos won’t eat it.

Hobbyists have also reported Otos eating Brown algae (Diatom), which can often appear in new aquariums which haven’t matured.

– If you want to learn more about different types of algae, you can see a detailed guide here.

Now, this is important, and you should take note of this: Most aquariums with a stable ecosystem will not produce enough algae to sustain 6+ Otos.

Because of this, you need to provide some extra food. You can do this by feeding them algae wafers or Catfish pellets.

Sale Recommended Product: Hikari Tropical Algae Wafers Feeding your otos algae wafers will help ensure they get enough food to keep them happy and healthy

Last update on 2022-07-21 / Commissions Earned / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API

You can also supplement their diet with blanched vegetables:

Brussel Sprouts

Romaine Lettuce

Spinach

Zucchini (Courgette)

When you’re feeding your Otos blanched vegetables, you’re going to need to weigh them down so it’ll stay in one spot long enough for them to reach it.

You can do this by using a Veggie-Clip, leftover plant weights, or attach it to a small rock using a rubber band.

As a general rule, don’t leave the vegetables in your aquarium for more than 3 days.

Pro Tip: Thoroughly wash the vegetables – make sure they’re free of pesticides before you introduce them to your aquarium.

Sexing and Breeding Otos

It can be difficult to sex Otos because there’s no obvious distinction. But, if you look closely the females are slightly larger and wider than males.

And when it comes to in-tank breeding, it’s rare – but not impossible. If it happens, aquatic hobbyists don’t tend to notice until they’re greeted by their new friend in the tank.

If you’re one of the lucky ones who manage to witness the mating process, you’ll see the female swimming up and down plants, rocks, or the sides of your tank with males in hot pursuit (pun intended).

A lucky male will then get into a ‘T’ position with the female – causing her to release and hold her eggs with her ventral fins.

After the female has found a suitable surface to place the eggs, the male will fertilize them. The process is then repeated until the female’s done.

You can read a successful breeding story here.

Fact: Unlike other Loricariids, Otocinclus males do not guard their eggs.

Buying Otocinclus – Be Warned!

A huge problem with keeping Otos is the first month of ownership. It’s common for hobbyists to report high loses in the first few weeks – even in ideal tank conditions.

So what’s going on? Well, there are a couple theories…

Chemical Poisoning?

A lot of hobbyists in the community believe the trouble starts during their capture.

It’s believed that fishermen use chemicals like Cyanide to slow down or temporarily paralyze the Otos. They’re then easily able to gather large numbers of fish.

However, cyanide fishing is more common in reefs. And, I would like to point out I cannot seem to find any official online reports about fishermen using Cyanide or other chemicals to catch Otos – if you know of any, please share.

Shipment and Starvation?

The stress put on fish during shipping can be handled by strong and healthy fish.

However, Otocinclus species are famous for being subjected to some awful shipping conditions.

Temperature swings, oxygen changes, irregular light cycles, dramatic movements, and vibrations can cause a number of diseases to infect the poor fish.

Starvation is a big problem because they’ll secrete the nitrogen in their food via their skin and gills as ammonia/ammonium – toxic to fish.

It’s not uncommon for them to be starved for 24-48 hours before the final bagging for shipping.

Having been used to an environment with plenty of algae and plants, they’re then starved and left in a bare tank – it’s no surprise there’s often many DOA’s (Dead on Arrival).

The fish then arrive in the fish store, where they’re commonly kept in overcrowded tanks with little algae to feed on.

If the pet store doesn’t provide them with algae wafers or vegetables they won’t last long.

It’s not a case of Otos being a fragile fish, it’s the fact they’re generally kept in harsh conditions before they’re bought.

But, it’s not all doom and gloom – you can use to following tips to buy healthy Otos.

How to Buy Healthy Otos?

To avoid the disappointment of losing your lovely Otos in the first few months, it’s important you pick the healthiest Otos from your fish store.

The following tips aren’t the ultimate answer, more a guide to give you and the Otos the best chance for success.

Speak to the Workers at Your Pet Store

Ask them the following questions:

How long they’ve had the stock for?

It’s common for Otos to die shortly after arriving at a pet store, so if they’ve had them for a few weeks it’s a good sign.

What are you feeding them?

If they say ‘Flake food’ – say no and leave. If they struggle to give you an answer – nope, this store is not for you.

Take a Close Look at Their Appearance

Check and see if they’ve got nice plump bellies, but, if it looks bloated (like they’ve swallowed a marble), they may have a bacterial infection.

Look for good color: olive brown, black and white. Avoid any with grayish white or bloody marks.

How do their fins look? In an ideal world, they’ll have two sharp points on the edges. However, they’re often rounded from stress or damage. Unless the damage is severe, don’t worry too much.

Buy Tank-Bred Otos

Easier said than done. Tank-bred Otos would be a better option, expect it’s extremely hard to source. If you know anyone – hook me up.

How to Introduce Your New Otos

After you’ve selected the best Otos available, it’s time to introduce them to your cycled aquarium (no measurable ammonia or nitrites and nitrates are below 20ppm).

You’ll also want some algae growth in your tank for when they arrive.

BUT, before you take them anywhere near your tank, you need to quarantine them for a few weeks.

This will help confirm your Otos are healthy and you’re not going to be introducing any nasty diseases into your aquarium.

Once you’re confident they’re in good condition, you can begin to introduce them to their new home.

I recommend using an acclimation kit and drip method. If you’re unfamiliar with the drip method. You can check out this article here.

Keep a close eye on them during the first month; making sure you keep on top of your 25-30% water changes.

If they survive, you’ve got a big chance they’ll be around for a long time – as long as you take care of them properly.

– Do you have your own Oto stories? Let us know in the comments.

Infographic: Otocinclus Care Guide

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What You Need to Know About Keeping Otocinclus Catfish

I’ve kept a variety of catfish to help keep my aquariums clean. I enjoy sharing what I’ve learned with other hobbyists on the web.

What Are Otos?

Otocinclus, the dwarf suckermouth catfish, is a popular genus of algae-eating catfish. The 17 species of Otocinclus (often called Otos) are often kept in hobbyists’ aquariums to control algae. Unlike their large cousins, the Plecos, Otos remain small and are not boisterous enough to cause damage to plants.

Although they are often purchased solely for algae control, Otos are social and should not be kept in groups of less than three. They are native to South America east of the Andes mountains, in streams that drain into the Amazon, Orinoco, and Paraguay/Parana rivers, and in streams that drain into the Atlantic in southeastern Brazil. They are notably absent from the Guianas.

All About Keeping Otos

This guide discusses the following aspects of the Otocinclus genus:

Size Diet Purchasing Considerations Breeding Considerations Species

1. Size

Otos are small—they range in size from 16.5–43.8 mm (0.6–1.7 inches), not counting the tail. Females are 10–20% larger than males and have a broader body, especially when they are in breeding condition.

2. Diet

Otocinclus are herbivores, feeding mainly on algae. The ideal tank has a lush growth of algae for them to feed on. Driftwood tends to support a healthy growth of algae for them to consume. Since it’s difficult for them to browse the algae all the way down on a rough surface like wood, it’s likely that there will always be something to eat on a piece of driftwood.

Supplemental Food

Aquariums often do not support enough algal growth to feed a school of Otos, so it may be necessary to supplement their diet with blanched spinach or zucchini. Food that has been dipped in boiling water or microwaved for a minute or two appears to be more attractive to Otos. An algae clip or a rock can be used to hold the material in place.

Sinking algae wafers are also a good way to get some more protein into their diet; however, since these wafers usually have a significant amount of shrimp, they are also attractive to other fish. In my main tank, the Otos rarely get at the algae wafers—the more boisterous Corydoras catfish keep the Otos from trying to get at the food.

One of my Otos. Copyright I. Ramjohn

3. Buying Otos

Most Otocinclus are wild-caught. Since they are vegetarian and need to eat almost constantly, mortality rates are high in transit. They may be starving by the time they get to the pet store, where they are often fed unsuitable food. Combine this with the added stress of a trip home from the pet store, and you end up with a fish that has a reputation for dying easily.

To minimise the risk, try not to buy fish until a few days after they arrive at your local pet store. Pick the healthy fish—the ones that are swimming around, looking for food on the gravel and glass, and schooling with the other Otos in the tank. Pick ones with rounded, not sunken bellies. Choose carefully.

Gary MacDonald (see “resources” section below) recommends that you bring a “snack” for the trip home. A piece of skinned cucumber or zucchini would make a good choice. It’s always a good idea to bring a darker bag to put your fish bag in—this minimises the stress of the trip home.

4. Breeding Otos

Breeding Otocinclus requires a heavily planted tank. Spawning is triggered by water changes using water that is a few degrees cooler than that temperature of the water in the tank. As with Corydoras catfish, Otos appear to use a “T-position” when breeding. Gary MacDonald’s article (see “resources,” below) is an excellent resource. Another account of spawning is available online at PlanetCatfish.

5. Species of Otocinclus

In his 1997 monograph on the species, Scott Schaefer recognised 13 species of Otocinclus:

O. vestitus, O. afinis, O. flexilis, O. vittatus, O. hasemani, O. hoppei, O. mariae, O. macrospilus, O. bororo, O. caxararz, O. huaorani, O. mura, and O. xakriaba.

Since then, four new species have been described:

O, batmani, O. cocama (the zebra Oto), O. mimulus, and O. tapirape.

This brings the total up to 17 unique species.

Resources

The best resource for beginners is Planet Catfish. Although it hasn’t been updated recently, Otocinclus.com is another good resource for information about Otocinclus catfish.

The definitive monograph on the genus Otocinclus was published by Scott Schaefer in 1997:

Schaefer, Scott A. 1997. The Neotropical Cascudinhos: Systematics and Biogeography of the Otocinclus Catfishes (Siluriformes: Loricariidae). Proceedings of the Academy of Natural Sciences of Philadelphia 148:1-120 (JSTOR subscription required).

Macdonald, Gary A. 2008. Oto Pilot: Buying, Keeping & Breeding Otocinclus Catfish. Tropical Fish Hobbyist, February 2008.

kip on February 05, 2011:

i read somewhere that if your oto starts to spend a lot of time at the top of the tank its because the water quality is not good, they apparently do not tolerate unclean water so regular small water changes are advised.

Jay on January 26, 2011:

Irene: Your otos are most likely starving to death. There is an algae/microbe line above the water line. The otos were probably leaving the water in search of food.

Additionally, I have never had any issues with these fish dying. Was surprised to see them listed as delicate. My current oto is nearing 3 years old. When I get some more algae in my tank I will buy him a friend.

Pat Menken on September 05, 2010:

I am somewhat new at raising ottos, but I have read several places that if you can get the ottos to survive more than a month, they will likely thrive a long time (barring any major or stupid accident). Driftwood is highly recommended, but I do not have any in my tank. Plants are highly recommended, but the one plant we had died (and we removed it). My tank (10 gallon) has lots of large gravel and several sea shells (about a dozen). For a while we used a 60 watt bulb light (until it burned out). We then switched to a 100 watt bulb and could visibly see lots of algae start growing on the tank within a week. We eventually were able to afford an aquarium light that now uses 15 watts flourescent. I also have black mollies and several really small snails (23 at last count). I didn’t realize that the mollies eat algae also. WE now have an army of algae eaters. Weirdly, our original otto female will not even consider eating the algae tablets we bought. When we got 2 new ottos, they seemed to love it as a most wonderful treat (unfortunately, so do the mollies). The biggest problem I saw, was trying to keep the right temperature for all the fish. After some quick consulting on the web, I came to reason that 77F (25C) would be about the best temperature. Later, I learned that 77F (25C) is also the optimum breeding temp for ottos as well. Even tho the local Pet Smart (where we bought our first otto) (and several other local stores) are out of ottos… We already had my female trying to attract a mate when she was the only otto. When we added the 2 new ottos (1 female and 1 male), i had hoped they would spawn together. I accidentally threw away the first egg set from the original female while cleaning out 50% water replacement (not knowing what this clear gel was). Now with 3 ottos, there are 2 different locations of this clear gel. I am not entirely sure that our male is old enough to perform his adult duties. He seems to favor the smaller female (the one we bought with him). The 2 biggest reasons for an otto to die are : 1. there isn’t enough algae in the tank, 2. The capturing method or other stress on the animal caused severe harm to it (most likely its liver). In parts of the world, they use cianide or other chemicals to slow the ottos down and make them really sluggish (and easier to catch). This has severe negative effects on the ottos health. Places using these methods are endangering the life of the otto (and the stress of a new tank only seems to speed up the process). I would recommend you get your otto from a different store. Ironically a week later, (the store we bought our original otto and mollies at) had their fish come down with ick. Our otto never showed any signs of ick. The mollies came down with ick and they have never been the same. They survived the treatments but have permanent scars. I later read that ottos are also sensitive to ick treatments and other medicines (I suspect this is probably referring to the ones who have bad livers). Our 3 ottos (though they each choose a different territory in the tank) do often hang out with eachother and can most often be found within a 2 inch radius (all three of them). My observation is that ottos can live alone, but seem to prefer friends. We had 2 neon tetras with the original purchase of fish, however one neon died within 24 hours and the other neon got so lonely (even the mollies wouldn’t play with it), that it simply quit eating. It died of loneliness within a week. Hope this helps you guys get some ideas about ottos. I got my information by using google and researching several sites (and of course from my own experiences as well). Good Luck. p.s. even the mollies have successfully bred recently.

Irene on April 05, 2009:

To whom it may concern,

Thank you for sharing your knowledge and expertise on otocinclus vittatus. I have learned much valuable information from your website. I have raised these fish but sadly with no success. I do not want to give up on the possibility of raising these fish successfully so I am trying to research as much as possible about them as much as possible until I plan to get more. At one time, I had one baby successfully survive for about a week until it disappeared. I assume it was devoured by one of the other fish in the tank. The full grown ones did not survive much longer then a month. A couple of times I saw an otocinclus vittatus move above the water line to suction against dry part of the glass aquarium. I am not sure if this was normal. It seemed strange. One of the fish that did this I believe died as a result of being dried out. Anyhow, thank you for providing thorough information about this interesting fish. I would appreciate any further advice that you may provide me regarding how to raise them.

Sincerely,

Irene

forlan on March 23, 2009:

nice hubs. i must learn from you

Ramon on March 17, 2009:

Nice to know about how stressed they are in transit to pet store.

cole on March 12, 2009:

i have 1 otto catfish who i keep with 7 tetras and 1 african dwarf frog in a 10 gallon tank and they’re getting along great.

Frank on June 29, 2008:

I didn’t know that the little otos was a social fish. My mom has one. I will have to tell her so she can get a couple more. Thank you for that helpful article.

Can An Otocinclus And Betta Live Together?

If you’re wondering whether an otocinclus and betta can live together, the short answer is yes. However, that doesn’t mean you should go out and buy an otocinclus to introduce to your betta. Otocinclus aren’t the easiest fish to keep (in the beginning) and if the right parameters aren’t met then their chances of survival decline.

So keep reading to find out everything you need to know about keeping otocinclus’ and bettas together!

Can An Otocinclus And Betta Live Together?

If you’re interested in keeping the two fish together then it’s essential to know as much about both fish as you can. If you’re reading this article then that means you already know a lot about bettas. So the focus today is going to be about information on otocinclus’!

Ideal Habitat For An Otocinclus And Betta

When you’re housing multiple fish together you have to create an environment that is going to suit all of them! That’s why it’s important to know what sort of tank your fish like.

The Natural Habitat Of Otocinclus’

Otocinclus catfish are found in South America. And they can often be caught in the Amazon River! Because of this, they are accustomed to being in rivers and streams that have a strong current. (Don’t worry, there is a solution for you to house your betta in a tank with a stronger current.)

Not only do they like a strong current, but they normally live in sandy substrate that is covered in tree roots. So you’ll also need to emulate this as best you can.

While they are most commonly seen in streams and rivers, it’s not impossible to find them in more open space. However, when this happens they’ll normally be in a shoal rather than on their own.

What’s The Ideal Tank?

Some people say you can keep otocinclus catfish in a tank as small as 10 gallons. And if you have just one then that may be possible. But I wouldn’t recommend it. Instead, you should aim for a larger tank that’s at least 29 gallons. This will give you enough space to buy a shoal of otocinclus as well as giving them more room to swim.

And once again make sure the tank itself has a sandy substrate. Your otocinclus may spend time foraging the floor so the last thing you want to do is hurt him. A gravelly substrate can often be sharp and rough which could scratch or cut an otocinclus.

And of course, you’re going to want to fill your tank with a lot of decorations. Especially live plants and driftwood (Check out this complete guide on driftwood). This will help your tank resemble the environment of an otocinclus.

Some great plants you should consider adding to your tank are anubias, java fern, hornwort and anacharis.

Lastly, you should make sure you have a good current flowing through your tank. If you’re worried about your betta then keep reading to find out how you can make the tank suit both breeds of fish!

Knowing the different behavior, tank requirements and diets of multiple fish is a difficult task to accomplish. In fact, there are fish that can live with your betta you haven’t even thought of yet! If you want to know about every fish that can live with your betta then click here.

Otocinclus Temperament

As well as knowing what sort of tank is best for your otocinclus it’s also necessary to know their temperament. We already know that bettas aren’t the friendliest fish, so it’s important to make sure you find tank mates that are going to stay out of their way.

To start off with Otocinclus catfish are bottom dwellers. Because of this, it’s more likely they will get along with your betta. Or to be more specific that your betta will ignore them. Betta’s tend to have a territory that is near the top of the tank. This is because they need to breathe from the surface and because they have upturned mouths.

So if your betta stays at the top of your tank and your otocinclus stays at the bottom they’ll end up avoiding each other naturally.

Also, one thing you should definitely know about otocinclus’ is the fact they love to hide. If you give them enough hiding places you may not see them for a couple of days. Only for them to pop up somewhere completely new later on!

Behavior

There are two things that your otocinclus is most likely going to be seen doing. The first is you’ll notice them foraging the bottom of your tank as well as any decorations that have algae on them. They are HUGE algae eating machines so this is going to be great if your tank is covered in the stuff.

And secondly, you’ll notice them hanging off things with their powerful mouths. They are able to cling to the bottom of leaves and plants by sucking really hard. Just be careful, if otocinclus are starved for too long they may begin hanging off other fish.

Should You Keep An Otocinclus In A Shoal?

To see the true nature of otocinclus catfish it’s best to keep them together rather than on their own. Otocinclus catfish are shoaling fish. When you keep them in groups of 6 or more you’ll notice them becoming a lot more confident. They will become more active and each one of them will show you their own individual personalities.

In fact, it’s better not to keep an otocinclus on its own. While it is possible, they’re definitely not going to be as happy, and you’ll miss out on so much interesting behavior.

Otocinclus Diet

When housing an otocinclus and betta together you’ll also need to make sure each fish is getting the right diet. Otocinclus’ are primarily herbivores, and bettas are primarily meat eaters. However, bettas are also opportunistic eaters so you’re going to need to make sure that your betta isn’t eating their food. (This shouldn’t be a problem).

The main reason this isn’t going to be a problem is that an otocinclus’ main source of food is going to be algae. If there’s an abundance of algae in your tank then your otocinclus is going to be extremely happy. While you should be aiming to maintain high levels of algal growth in your tank, it doesn’t matter if not. There are other ways you can supplement it.

The most common way to supplement algae in your otocinclus’ diet is to feed them algae wafers. You can buy them on Amazon, and to make sure your betta doesn’t eat them it’s best to buy the sinking wafers.

As well as algae wafers you can also feed them a variety of vegetables such as cucumbers or zucchinis, just make sure they’re blanched first.

Just be careful about trying to create the conditions needed for algae artificially. Most algae growth occurs in water that has high levels of nitrate, and because otocinclus catfish and bettas are sensitive to this it could make them sick, or even kill them.

So when feeding your otocinclus and betta make sure that you’re giving your betta the right food that he needs (high-quality food pellets, daphnia and mosquito larvae). And that you’re also making sure your otocinclus is getting adequate algae or the necessary supplements. If you do this, both of your fish will live happily.

How Often Do They Need Feeding?

If you’re not aware already, bettas should be fed twice a day. However, an otocinclus is slightly different. If you plan on feeding them vegetables you should never leave the vegetables in the tank for more than 24 hours.

A good ratio is 4 algae wafers spread throughout the week as well as a small piece of a vegetable of your choice. The more otocinclus you have the more you should feed them.

Water Conditions

Fortunately, an otocinclus and betta need similar water conditions to survive. Of course, like all fish, you should keep the ammonia levels and nitrite levels at 0ppm. However, normally nitrate levels can be up to 20ppm with most fish. But with otocinclus, you should also try to keep the nitrate level as low as possible as well.

Otociniclus’ also do well in temperatures between 72-82°F, likewise, bettas can live in temperatures between 76-80°F. Ideally, you should try keeping the temperature of your tank at 78°F.

pH wise, both fish prefer a neutral pH or one that is slightly acidic. So you should make sure the pH never drops below 6.5 or goes above 7.2.

You should also make sure that your tank has a strong current for your otocinclus, but also an area that is free from the current for your betta.

If you’re interested in knowing about 30 other tank mates that can live with your betta then check out this HUGE list of betta tank mates!

Keeping Otocinclus Catfish And Bettas Together

When keeping otocinclus’ and bettas together there are a few things you’re going to need to be aware of.

The Water Current

One of the biggest problems that you’re going to have when keeping an otocinclus and betta together is the water current. Otocinclus catfish like constant water flow, whereas with bettas it should be very gentle. One of the best ways you can get around this is the way you decorate your tank. In a 20 gallon tank or bigger, you’ll have enough room to slow down the current, until it’s suitable for your betta at one end.

(If you’re interested in buying a bigger tank or fancy a change, check out some of the best 20 gallon tanks you can buy for your betta.)

To do this you should place plants and decorations in front of the water flow. Sparsely at first and then more concentrated where you want the current to be gentle. It may take some rearranging to get it just right, but once it’s done your betta will be able to swim peacefully in a nice section of the tank.

Aggression

Otocinclus catfish are extremely peaceful and will not attack your betta unless they are starving. However, the same can’t be said for your betta. Even though they don’t have any of the triggers that betta fish attack, it doesn’t mean he won’t try. No fish is safe in a tank with bettas, and before adding a tank mate you should know the temperament of your betta. If he’s aggressive then it’s best to avoid placing him with any other fish, and instead, you should start a new community tank.

However, if your betta is relatively peaceful (which is often the case) then otocinclus’ make great tank mates, and they’ll help you get rid of any algae build up. But they’re not the only ones! Check out the 17 best algae eaters for betta tanks.

Quarantine

You should quarantine any fish that is being introduced to your main tank but this is especially the case with otocinclus catfish. They are notorious for carrying illness, due to the long time they spend in transit, and the lack of food they get in pet stores. Before adding an otocinclus into your bettas tank you should quarantine them for a few weeks first. If you’re not sure how to set up a quarantine tank then you can learn everything you need to know here.

What To Look For When Picking An Otocinclus

Once otocinclus catfish have settled in they’re very easy to keep. However, the first few weeks are the hardest. It’s not uncommon for fish keepers to buy a shoal of otocinclus’ and only end up having one of them surviving.

This is because most of the time they aren’t bred in captivity and instead they’re being shipped around the world. Of course, this increases the stress they’re feeling massively and results in them having a weak immune system by the time they reach your tank.

When looking for a healthy otocinclus you should pick one that looks active and is swimming happily with the rest of his shoal. As well as this you’re going to want to pick one that has a nice plump belly. While this is an unhealthy sign in bettas, it’s a good sign in an otocinclus.

If you notice that their belly is caved in then you should definitely avoid purchasing. Just make sure that their belly looks plump and not bloated. Bloating could be the sign of a serious bacterial infection that you don’t want to introduce into your tank.

Also, you should be paying attention to their color. It should look healthy in different shades of olive, brown, black and white. You should avoid an otocinclus that has a grey coloring and DEFINITELY if they look bloody.

And make sure that their fins don’t look too damaged. While normally they will be a bit damaged due to transit, if they look noticeably bad then you should pick another fish.

And of course if there are any fish dead in the tank then you shouldn’t but anything from that tank.

Recap

This article has a lot of information to take in, so here’s a quick recap of the main points.

Ideally, you should keep otocinclus catfish in a shoal of 6 or more. To do this effectively you should have a tank that is 29 gallons or bigger. However, it is possible to keep a single otocinclus in a 10-gallon tank, but it’s not recommended.

Make sure your tank has a sandy substrate as well as lots of live plants and driftwood. There also needs to be a good water flow.

Otocinclus catfish are peaceful and won’t attack your betta. They prefer being in shoals, and most of the time they’ll spend their time foraging for algae.

Don’t be afraid if your otocinclus goes missing for a couple of days. They like to hide and normally pop up later on.

Make sure otocinclus catfish are getting enough food. Ideally, you want a tank that is covered in algae, but if not high-quality algae wafers can be used. You can also use blanched vegetables like zucchinis and cucumber.

An otocinclus and betta thrive in the same temperature and pH, however, you should keep the nitrates in your tank as low as possible instead of the recommended 20ppm.

To stop your betta being affected by a stronger water current you should use live plants and decorations to slow the current down.

Make sure you quarantine your otocinclus before adding it to your betta tank.

Otocinclus’ that are colorful, active and plump looking are healthy. Avoid any with caved in bellies, torn and ragged fins, and grey or red coloring.

If you’re interested to know more about tank mates that can live with bettas then you have to check out the Ultimate Betta Tank Mate Guide. You’ll learn about 68 different tank mates that can live with your betta, as well as fish to avoid. You’ll also learn how to create the perfect environment for mates, how to introduce tank mates and much more! So check it out!

If you liked this article, make sure you check out the rest of the website! And if you have any more questions you can ask them in the Q&A Section!

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Do otocinclus need pairs?

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