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Contents
How much power can a 5.3 handle stock?
If we were to run the 5.3L in stock trim, the resulting power output would be around 360 hp (on this dyno, the way we test). If we apply 14.7 psi from our turbos to the stock 360hp motor, we might get 720 hp.
How much boost can a stock LS take?
on a stock ls1/ls2. These boost numbers can be plenty safe so long as the car has the proper tune. that PSI *can* be safe detonation wise (with a really good tune!)…but common evidence suggests that 500-550rwhp is about the limit of stock internals, mainly the pistons and con rods begin to start dying over 550rwhp.
How much horsepower can a 5.3 LS make?
The cam is rated at an rpm range of 1,600-6,600 so off-throttle response is good and it makes great power at higher rpm. The stock 5.3L is factory rated around 320 hp with 340 lb-ft of torque.
How much HP can a 5.3 LM7 handle?
Upgrading the LM7 Fuel System and Tuning
and won’t support much more than 380 hp. Plan on upgrading to larger fuel injectors to meet the fuel demands of increased power. Custom tuning will be required to properly adjust the fuel and ignition timing.
Are 5.3 and 6.0 blocks the same?
Flassh, Actually the 6.0 motor is the same small block that the 5.3 utilizes. The 5.3 is 327 cu. in. and the 6.0 is the same block bored to a 366 cu.
What LS is best for boost?
If you’re planning on boosting your project the 4.8L truck engine will be perfect for you. The 4.8L can take insane amounts of boost completely stock and will really perform well. If you don’t want a barebones 5.3L or 4.8L you could always step up to a 6.2L truck block which is based on the LS3 engine.
Can you turbo a stock LS?
Yes, you can make big power by throwing boost at a stock LS engine, however, if you want the horsepower party to last for a long time you’ll need to make some changes to the engine. The stock components just can’t deal with the stress that forced induction can put on them when you really start to crank up the boost.
How much HP can a stock LS handle?
how much HP a stock LS1 engine can handle? Most people will tell you 500-550 rwhp is a reasonably safe limit to push a stock bottom end.
Is the GM 5.3 a 327?
325 is close to the correct number. The 5.3L is not a 327 or even close to a 327.
What are the best heads for a 5.3 LS?
GM’s 706 Vortec heads are the cheapest and most effective heads you can use for your 5.3L, or 4.8L, or even some 6.0L LS engine build.
What does LS stand for?
In a car engine, LS stands for luxury sport, meaning it is majorly used in high-end cars that offer great performance like the Chevrolet. In a Chevy, the LS engine is the main V8 mainly used in General Motors’ line of rear-wheel-drive cars.
Is a 5.3 Vortec an LS?
The Vortec 5300 is a small-block V8 GM engine that was produced from 1999 until 2013. While the 5.3L Vortec is based off of the LS engine platform, it itself is not technically an LS engine. The engine went through two different variations during its lifespan, Gen III and Gen IV.
How much HP can a stock 6.0 LS handle?
If we were to run the 6.0L in stock trim, the resulting power output would be around 400 hp (on this dyno the way we test).
How much HP can a stock L83 handle?
The L83 is GM’s LT based direct-injected 5.3L engine that comes in every GM truck imaginable. They are plentiful, powerful, and reliable, and are now starting to show up in hot rods, muscle cars, and classic trucks. Stock they were rated at 355-380 horsepower and 383-416 lb. ft.
How much boost can L33 handle?
Another bonus of the L33 is it had beefier connecting rods than earlier Gen. 3 engines and had full floating pins. They can handle about 750+ hp and 7,000 rpm in boosted applications (at least for a while).
What is a 5.3 Vortec?
The 5.3L V8 Vortec LMF is a technically advanced small-block V-8 engine that delivers a great balance of power, torque and efficiency. The engine is powerful, but delivers exceptional refinement to go with great strength.
How much boost can a 5.3 handle? – PerformanceTrucks.net Forums
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- Summary of article content: Articles about How much boost can a 5.3 handle? – PerformanceTrucks.net Forums FORCED INDUCTION – How much boost can a 5.3 handle? – So you guys never answered my ? how much boost can stock 5.3 handle without blowing up because I hear … …
- Most searched keywords: Whether you are looking for How much boost can a 5.3 handle? – PerformanceTrucks.net Forums FORCED INDUCTION – How much boost can a 5.3 handle? – So you guys never answered my ? how much boost can stock 5.3 handle without blowing up because I hear … How,much,boost,can,5,3,handle,06, 3000, 53, aluminum, block, boost, chevy, fairmont, handle, ls1tech, parish, power, silverado, stall, turbo, How much boost can a 5.3 handle?, vbulletin,forum,bbs,discussion,jelsoft,bulletin boardFORCED INDUCTION – How much boost can a 5.3 handle? – So you guys never answered my ? how much boost can stock 5.3 handle without blowing up because I hear mixed answers!
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Vortec 5.3L – Big Bang
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- Most searched keywords: Whether you are looking for Vortec 5.3L – Big Bang Updating The two-part question was a simple one. How much boost will a stock 5.3L short-block withstand before the proverbial Big Bang and what is the resulting power ou
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415HP From A Basic 5.3 LS Engine!
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- Summary of article content: Articles about 415HP From A Basic 5.3 LS Engine! Updating …
- Most searched keywords: Whether you are looking for 415HP From A Basic 5.3 LS Engine! Updating Ultimately keeping the engine simple and swapping the fuel injection for a Holley 650 carb, MSD coil pack controller, and an Edelbrock dual-plane intake was the easiest way to go.
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LM7 5.3L Engine Upgrade Guide: Expert Advice for LM7 Mods to Maximize Performance
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Search Form
Intro to LM7 Engines
How to Get More Power From Your LM7
Upgrading the LM7 Camshaft and Valvetrain
LM7 Power Adders
Upgrading the LM7 Fuel System and Tuning
Upgrading the LM7 Intake Manifold and Throttle Body
Upgrading LM7 Cylinder Heads
Upgrading the LM7 Rotating Assembly
Upgrading the LM7 Engine Block
How much boost can a 5.3 handle
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- Summary of article content: Articles about How much boost can a 5.3 handle You can run more than 10psi, no sweat. It’s all in the tune. Stock cranks are good for FAR more than 500hp. ff_jeff 12:39 AM 01-16 … …
- Most searched keywords: Whether you are looking for How much boost can a 5.3 handle You can run more than 10psi, no sweat. It’s all in the tune. Stock cranks are good for FAR more than 500hp. ff_jeff 12:39 AM 01-16 … pistons,change,handle,boost,stock,rotating,hoping,leave,assembly,changing,stay,moneys,sake,heard,bone,nice,forged,true,pretty,hold,bottomAnyone know how much boost a bone stock 5.3 can handle. Also Ive heard all you need to do is change to some nice forged pistons and the bottom end will hold up pretty well, anyone know if this is true. If I change the pistons I was looking to run 12 psi, if I leave it stock I was hoping for 8 maybe 10. Id like to try and stay away from changing the whole rotating assembly just for moneys sake.
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How much boost can a 53 handle
How much Boost can a stock 5.3 handle ? – LS1TECH – Camaro and Firebird Forum Discussion
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- Summary of article content: Articles about How much Boost can a stock 5.3 handle ? – LS1TECH – Camaro and Firebird Forum Discussion General LSX Automobile Discussion – How much Boost can a stock 5.3 handle ? – Thinking of throwing a D1 procharger on a 5.3 how much power … …
- Most searched keywords: Whether you are looking for How much Boost can a stock 5.3 handle ? – LS1TECH – Camaro and Firebird Forum Discussion General LSX Automobile Discussion – How much Boost can a stock 5.3 handle ? – Thinking of throwing a D1 procharger on a 5.3 how much power … How,much,Boost,can,stock,5,3,handle,2010, 53, block, boost, cam, camaro, cammed, charger, handle, horsepower, hp, power, pro, run, stock, How much Boost can a stock 5.3 handle ?, LS1Tech – Forum and Community for GM Performance Vehicles – LS1General LSX Automobile Discussion – How much Boost can a stock 5.3 handle ? – Thinking of throwing a D1 procharger on a 5.3 how much power could i get out of it safely ? Would also have a cam installed too. Just wondering how far i could push it with boost and be safe thanks to anyone with info
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How much boost can a stock 5.3 take?
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- Summary of article content: Articles about How much boost can a stock 5.3 take? How much boost can a stock 5.3 take? … It can take all of the boost…j/k. They can take quite a lot, but I personally wouldn’t run any higher … …
- Most searched keywords: Whether you are looking for How much boost can a stock 5.3 take? How much boost can a stock 5.3 take? … It can take all of the boost…j/k. They can take quite a lot, but I personally wouldn’t run any higher … boost, kind, running, stock, pounds, shifting, 5200, degrees, rpms, spin, timingHow much boost can a stock 5.3 take. What kind of rpms do you spin and what kind of timing are you running under boost. Im running 8 pounds and 16 degrees and shifting at 5200
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2007 5.3L Silverado…how much boost will she hold? Engine management? – CamaroZ28.Com Message Board
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- Summary of article content: Articles about 2007 5.3L Silverado…how much boost will she hold? Engine management? – CamaroZ28.Com Message Board The little 5.3 will hold a lot. From smaller turbos like the mp70 many have run upwards of 20psi and right around the 600rwhp mark. The tranny is without a … …
- Most searched keywords: Whether you are looking for 2007 5.3L Silverado…how much boost will she hold? Engine management? – CamaroZ28.Com Message Board The little 5.3 will hold a lot. From smaller turbos like the mp70 many have run upwards of 20psi and right around the 600rwhp mark. The tranny is without a … 2007,5,3L,Silverado,how,much,boost,will,she,hold,Engine,management, 2007 5.3L Silverado…how much boost will she hold? Engine management?, Camaro,forum,camaro forum,camaroz28,camaro z ,z, z28,ss,rs,v6,v8,ls,lt,ls3,lsa,parts,sale,reviews,chevy,chevrolet forum,chevrolet,f-body,5th genForced Induction – 2007 5.3L Silverado…how much boost will she hold? Engine management? – Posting for a friend. He has the new style Silverado. Has 12000 miles on it. Pampered. Hasn’t seen rain or snow lol. Looking to turbo it next week. How much boost will it take? We’re aiming for a safe reliable level. What is…
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how much boost can a stock 5.3 handle
- Article author: www.quora.com
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- Summary of article content: Articles about how much boost can a stock 5.3 handle I have heard that someone got a 5.3 to do dozens of runs at 58lbs of boost, on a stock block And I belive stock bottom end too. It was like well over 900hp. …
- Most searched keywords: Whether you are looking for how much boost can a stock 5.3 handle I have heard that someone got a 5.3 to do dozens of runs at 58lbs of boost, on a stock block And I belive stock bottom end too. It was like well over 900hp.
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how much boost can a stock 5.3 handle
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- Summary of article content: Articles about how much boost can a stock 5.3 handle How much HP can a stock 5.3 bottom end handle? How much power can a stock 5.3 handle? How much boost will a 5.3 hold? How much horsepower can a LS engine … …
- Most searched keywords: Whether you are looking for how much boost can a stock 5.3 handle How much HP can a stock 5.3 bottom end handle? How much power can a stock 5.3 handle? How much boost will a 5.3 hold? How much horsepower can a LS engine …
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Vortec 5.3L – Big Bang
The two-part question was a simple one. How much boost will a stock 5.3L short-block withstand before the proverbial Big Bang and what is the resulting power output? The web is chock-full of speculation, ranging from absurd to the insane. What will go first? Will the sleeves split in the block or will the power level simply push the crank out the bottom? The smart money is on the notoriously weak cast pistons and powdered metal connecting rods, since neither was designed by GM to withstand the rigors of boost. Rather than rely on viral videos or Internet banter, we decided to find out for ourselves. Having run a similar test for Hot Rod with a 4.8L, we decided to step up to the larger (and more popular) 5.3L LM7 truck motor. Just how tough is the 5.3L? The results of this test will amaze you and make you proud to own a 5.3L Chevy.
The procedure for our Big Bang test was equally simple. We purchased a used (supposedly running) 5.3L truck motor (circa 2003) from a dismantler in Ohio and had it shipped to Westech Performance. Rather than just pull it from the shipping crate and run it, we decided to do a little prep. The engine was first disassembled to ensure it was a worthy candidate. The last thing we wanted was an unusable core with rusty innards or a spun cam bearing. The motor was listed as having logged 160,000 miles, and looked liked frequent oil changes were not part of the maintenance schedule. In addition to checking out the internals, we also wanted to perform a little boost-prerequisite modification to the otherwise stock short-block. The real reason most stock motors fail under boost is insufficient ring gap. The rings heat up and expand until the ring gap is eliminated. Once this happens, the ring can momentarily stick in the bore and snap the ring land off the piston. Damage that is usually attributed to weak piston design is actually insufficient ring gap. Knowing we were going for broke, we gapped the rings aggressively—meaning over .035 for both top and second rings.
While performing the regap procedure on the original 160,000-mile rings (new rings would be cheating), we also addressed a couple issues with the stock pistons. The excessive mileage and (PCV-related) oil consumption left hardened sludge in the ring lands (behind the rings). This was cleaned using a pick, screwdriver and brake cleaner. Scuffed piston skirts were addressed with a little oil and Scotch brite pads. The one machining operation performed was to ball hone the block. Given the high-mileage rings and excessive ring gap, this was probably unnecessary, but we felt better giving the tired truck motor a little love before sending it to its doom. Once everything was cleaned, we reassembled the short-block using the original bearings. We did take the liberty of installing a new oil pump from Federal Mogul. Though we were tempted, we refrained from replacing the seals in the front, rear, and valley covers. Even the original oil pan gasket was deemed adequate for this destruction test. With the stock short-block now boost ready, it was time for some modifications.
See all 20 photos See all 20 photos 1. Humble beginnings—the LM7 had logged 160,000 miles before it arrived for dyno testing.
You might be wondering why we would choose to modify any components in this strength test, but the answer is a simple one. The power output of any turbocharged motor is a function of the power output of the normally aspirated motor multiplied by the boost pressure (pressure ratio). Your normally aspirated motor is actually running at an atmospheric pressure of 14.7 psi. If you double this atmospheric pressure (by supplying boost from a turbo or blower), you can theoretically double the power output of your motor. This formula works regardless of the original power output. If we were to run the 5.3L in stock trim, the resulting power output would be around 360 hp (on this dyno, the way we test). If we apply 14.7 psi from our turbos to the stock 360hp motor, we might get 720 hp. If, on the other hand, we increase the power output of the motor with ported heads, a cam and intake to 500 hp, then adding 14.7 psi will result in an even 1,000 hp. Having a more powerful normally aspirated motor allows you to produce more power with the turbos at a lower boost pressure. More than just the boost limit of the motor, we wanted a big power number to go along with it.
Wanting big boost and big power to test the limits of the internal components of the stock short-block, we swapped out the stock cam, heads and intake manifold. The mild 5.3L truck cam was replaced by a healthy 281LR HR13 cam from Comp Cams. The LSR cathedral-port grind offered a .617/.624 lift split, a 231/239-degree duration split and a boost-friendly 113-degree LSA. The powerful cam was teamed with a set of GenX 215 heads from Trick Flow Specialties. The GenX 215 heads featured full CNC porting, 215cc intake ports and a 2.04/1.575 stainless steel valve package. The GenX 215 heads were designed for the slightly larger 3.902 bore but worked without interference on the smaller 3.78-inch bore. The GenX 215 heads offered not only exceptional airflow (over 320 cfm), but also a thicker deck surface than the stock 5.3L heads. The heads were combined with a truck-oriented Fast LSXRT intake and matching 102mm throttle body. The dedicated fuel rails were stuffed with injectors that flowed a whopping 160 pounds per hour—we were not lacking for fuel! Wanting to maximize sealing under high boost, we installed a set of Fel Pro MLS head gaskets (.053 thick and 3.950 bore) and ARP head studs. The 64cc chambers on the GenX heads lowered the static compression of our 5.3L by nearly half a point.
After a break-in procedure, Westech’s Ernie Mena dialed in the tune on the 5.3L using the Fast XFI/XIM management system. The normally aspirated 5.3L eventually produced 503 hp at 6,600 rpm and 441 lb-ft of torque at 5,700 rpm. The new heads, cam, and intake shifted the power curve higher in the rev range, as a stock 5.3L will produce peak power at just 5,400 rpm. We were impressed by the power of the little 5.3L, but were anxious to get this thing under boost. We installed a homemade turbo system consisting of a set of JBA shorty truck headers and adapter tubes to mount the T4-based, 76mm turbos from CX Racing. CX Racing also supplied the air-to-water intercooler, aluminum tubing and silicone couplers. They even had all the small parts like oil feed and drain kits, making them and excellent source for the do-it-yourselfer. To properly control the boost on this monster, we relied on a pair of 45mm Hyper Gate wastegates, a manual wastegate controller, and a Race Port blow-off valve all from Turbo Smart.
See all 20 photos See all 20 photos 9. Since we had them from another build, we installed these GenX 215 heads from Trick Flow Specialties.
Wanting strength and not octane to be the destructive force, we replaced the 91-octane fuel with 118-octane race fuel from Rocket Brand. Truth be told, improper tuning has probably killed more engines than insufficient ring gap, but the two are likely responsible for the majority of boost-related Big Bangs. We kept the total timing on the conservative side (around 18 degrees) and snuck up on boost and power levels. The motor was loaded at 3,000 rpm and allowed to run to 6,300 rpm, though peak power was actually some 300 to 400 rpm higher. Running just 5.5 psi, the twin-turbo 5.3L produced 696 hp and 606 lb-ft of torque. Stepping up to 13.0 psi resulted in 930 hp and 806 lb-ft of torque, while 15.5 psi took us over 1,000 hp to 1,014 hp and 872 lb-ft of torque. Adjusting the manual wastegate controller to a peak of 18.3 psi brought 1,094 hp and 950 lb-ft of torque then 1,174 hp and 1008 lb-ft at 21.0 psi. A few more clicks of the controller upped the power ante to 1,245 hp and 1,056 lb-ft of torque and the highest boosted run of the day recorded an amazing 1,308 hp and 1,109 lb-ft of torque at 24.2 psi before the Big Bang finally came through. Wanting strength and not octane to be the destructive force, we replaced the 91-octane fuel with 118-octane race fuel from Rocket Brand. Truth be told, improper tuning has probably killed more engines than insufficient ring gap, but the two are likely responsible for the majority of boost-related Big Bangs. We kept the total timing on the conservative side (around 18 degrees) and snuck up on boost and power levels. The motor was loaded at 3,000 rpm and allowed to run to 6,300 rpm, though peak power was actually some 300 to 400 rpm higher. Running just 5.5 psi, the twin-turbo 5.3L produced 696 hp and 606 lb-ft of torque. Stepping up to 13.0 psi resulted in 930 hp and 806 lb-ft of torque, while 15.5 psi took us over 1,000 hp to 1,014 hp and 872 lb-ft of torque. Adjusting the manual wastegate controller to a peak of 18.3 psi brought 1,094 hp and 950 lb-ft of torque then 1,174 hp and 1008 lb-ft at 21.0 psi. A few more clicks of the controller upped the power ante to 1,245 hp and 1,056 lb-ft of torque and the highest boosted run of the day recorded an amazing 1,308 hp and 1,109 lb-ft of torque at 24.2 psi before the Big Bang finally came through.
Actually, the Big Bang was more of a little whimper, as the power simply fell off and a check of the dreaded cylinder number seven revealed absolutely no compression. Figuring we killed a piston, connecting rod or both, we called it a day. Before pulling the motor, we decided to check out the internals for a few post-mortem photos. After pulling the turbos, intercooler and valve covers, we discovered the missing compression was not caused by damage to a piston or rod, but rather a broken lifter and pushrod. During testing the higher boost levels, we experienced a misfire that we figured was ignition related. After several attempts to cure it, the power dropped and we thought we had killed the 5.3L. We now suspect the culprit to be valve float, and the hammering of the lifter points in this direction. Before removing the 5.3L, we decided to find out if it was indeed still alive. We replaced the broken lifter and pushrod and ran the motor once again in normally aspirated trim. Though the output was down by roughly 15 hp (excessive blow caused by a combination of 160,000 miles, over .035 ring gap and 70 runs over 1,000 hp), the 1,300hp Big Bang 5.3L was still alive, kicking and ready for more boost (and maybe a new set of rings).
Big Bang 5.3L NA vs. Turbo (5.5 psi) vs. Turbo 15.5 psi vs. Turbo 24.2 psi NA 5.5 psi 15.5 psi 24.2 psi RPM HP TQ HP TQ HP TQ HP TQ 3000 209 365 250 438 251 439 224 394 3200 220 362 267 439 271 446 241 395 3400 234 361 290 448 296 457 267 412 3600 248 362 323 471 338 494 317 463 3800 267 369 362 501 393 542 371 512 4000 293 384 404 531 478 628 446 585 4200 313 391 430 537 568 711 549 686 4400 341 407 453 542 629 751 647 773 4600 377 430 495 565 704 804 841 961 4800 401 438 535 585 785 858 984 1077 5000 414 435 559 588 821 863 1056 1109 5200 428 433 576 583 850 858 1089 1100 5400 451 439 601 584 572 858 1122 1091 5600 472 443 636 596 921 864 1168 1096 5800 483 437 669 606 962 872 1212 1098 6000 492 430 689 603 994 870 1254 1098 6200 497 421 695 589 1011 856 1295 1095 6300 499 416 NA NA 1013 845 1308 1091 6600 503 400 NA NA NA NA NA NA
See all 20 photos See all 20 photos 17. The homemade turbo kit consisted of a set of JBA truck headers turned upside down feeding adapter tubes designed to mount the turbos. Note the orientation of the wastegate flanges.
See all 20 photos See all 20 photos 18. Boost control was critical on this application, so we went right to Turbo Smart for a pair of their 45mm Hyper Gates. Despite oversized turbos on a small motor, these gates provided perfect boost control.
415HP From A Basic 5.3 LS Engine!
So why would you want build an LS engine? Because they are cheap horsepower and it’s easy to build. Over a million trucks were made with V-8-powered LS powerplants since 1998. Tons of aftermarket companies are now making parts for these engines and our test engine ended up making 415 horsepower with minimal parts. So why not build an LS?
After pulling a 5.3L LS truck engine out of a junkyard, I wanted to find out for myself how easy it was to get it running again. The junkyard guy said that the engine was in fact a 5.3L out of a 2004 Chevy truck. As I looked over the engine I thought, “Hey, that would be a perfect engine to use for one of my many project vehicles.”
After loading the engine in the back of my pickup, I pondered on what I wanted the engine to look like, but more importantly what can I do to bump up performance. Several different directions passed through my head, like keeping the stock LS intake or purchase one of the many available aftermarket fuel-injection systems. Ultimately keeping the engine simple and swapping the fuel injection for a Holley 650 carb, MSD coil pack controller, and an Edelbrock dual-plane intake was the easiest way to go.
Now that I had a direction on what parts I wanted to use, I looked on the Summit Racing website and found the Edelbrock dual-plane intake (part number 71187), (ARP-200-2401) carb studs, and (SUM-G1418) carb gasket. Instead of ordering the complete Edelbrock intake/controller kit, Steve from Westech Performance suggested that I use the MSD 6LS Ignition Controller (part number 6010) because of the ability to tune the timing curve while on the dyno or with a laptop at home. Steve also recommended that I use a Comp Cams (54-416-11) hydraulic roller camshaft specs are 220/224 int./exh. at 0.05-inch duration with 0.530-inch / 0.0534-inch int./exh. lift at 112 LSA. The stock cam specs are 190/191 int./exh. at 0.05-inch duration with 0.466-inch / 0.457-inch int./exh. lift at 114 LSA.
If you know anything about camshafts, then our Comp Cams choice does not seem like a huge jump, but boy did it make a big improvement on the dyno. The cam is rated at an rpm range of 1,600-6,600 so off-throttle response is good and it makes great power at higher rpm.
The stock 5.3L is factory rated around 320 hp with 340 lb-ft of torque. When on the dyno at Westech we were able to get close to the stock numbers 315 hp and 325 lb-ft with our 650 Holley carburetor swap, MSD controller, and Edelbrock intake. So it was cool to see the how well the LS engine will improve to simple changes 415 hp and 396 lb-ft from what was a basic cam change.
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Is it a 4.8 or 5.3? You need to know what the engine is before you order performance parts, especially if you are planning on replacing the heads down the road.
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The only way to tell the difference is to either remove a cylinder head or use a bore scope such as this one I picked up from Harbor Freight. The 4.8L pistons are flat on the top and the 5.3L pistons have a small dish to them.
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The Edelbrock dual-plane intake is perfect for our application. It features an air gap under the intake that allows the intake to not get hot like a traditional small-block intake. The air gap also allows us to run the stock LS crossover tubes for the coolant.
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We flipped the intake over to install the rubber gaskets. Unlike the small-blocks of the past we didn’t have to use silicone to seal the intake, the LS gaskets just push right on.
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I cleaned the surface and installed the intake with the provided bolts.
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I used a Holley 650 Ultra Double Pumper carb to provide fuel to the LS engine. Holley says that Ultra Double Pumper carburetors feature all-aluminum construction and are equipped with metering blocks and a base plate made from 6061T6 billet aluminum. Three different anodized color options (red, blue, or black) allow for a personalized look while maintaining the ultra-high strength and durability you get from billet. They weigh approximately 5 pounds less than a comparable zinc carburetor.
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I then bolted the MSD 6LS Ignition Controller (part number 6010) to the top of the intake. This provided the spark to the coils via the stock coil wiring, the crank sensor, and cam sensor. On our engine we had a 24-tooth crank sensor reluctor wheel and you will need to know what year engine you have to figure that out.
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I would recommend using one of these Summit Racing adjustable engine leveler (part number SUM-G1022) so that you can easily load the engine in the truck or on the dyno without scratching parts or lifting the engine from the carb studs.
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I used a Lokar Anchor Tight Locking Flexible Engine Dipstick to clean up the engine bay and to easily check the engine oil.
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The engine started up great and with a few adjustments to the floats Steve Brule of Westech ran it on the dyno. We were not getting enough fuel at mid to top end so Steve opened up the fuel bowls and replaced the front and rear main jets. We went from a 61 to a 70 main jet and retested the engine. Not bad for a stock engine 315 hp and 325 lb-ft.
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Now it’s time to install some performance goodies from Comp Cams. We ordered a street/strip dual-valve spring kit, lightweight tool steel retainers, 7-degree steel valve locks, valve seals, and spring seats. Also a Comp cam.
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Steve started by removing the crank pulley and cover for the timing set.
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The No. 1 cylinder is on the right-hand side of the engine or driver side if you’re sitting in the vehicle. After Steve removed the cover for the timing set he needed to set it at top dead center.
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He removed the rockers so that the engine would be easy to turn and so that the cam would slide out without the valvetrain applying pressure on the camshaft.
Steve found TDC by cranking the engine over via the dyno starter. Then he rotated the engine by hand to get the alignment marks lined up.
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On a three-bolt LS cam the alignment bolt will point toward 3 o’clock.
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The cam sensor was unbolted and removed so that we can slide the camshaft out of the block without damaging the sensor.
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After removing the cam gear and placing the lifter tool that holds the lifters from falling into the block Steve removed the cam.
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Some Lucas assembly lube for the new Comp cam and in it goes.
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Everything was re-installed in reverse order and the camshaft along with the new valvesprings and pushrods were all in the engine. Time for some more testing.
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With the camshaft change we needed to once again re-jet the carb. We ended up with 64 primary and 70 secondary and that helped our engine stay in better fuel control while in cruise conditions, heavy load, and wide-open throttle.
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With the carb apart Steve also wanted to change the primary power valve. He did this because with the cam change the engine wanted the power valve to add more fuel while transitioning from idle to wide-open throttle.
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We took the engine back to the tech center to install a few more LS parts. On the way back I noticed that the engine was leaking oil near the bottom of the oil pan. Well I failed to properly transport the engine and managed to crack the stock oil pan. Now that was not a big deal since I was planning on replacing the oil pan with this Holley (part number 302) LS replacement oil pan. Since most of the readers lower their pickup trucks the oil pan helps add clearance for crossmembers and helps with ground clearance.
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We also replaced the starter with the new MSD that has a gear reduction of 4.4:1 and improves torque for great cranking. It is downsized to help with clearance around the oil pan and aftermarket headers. Also the starter can clock in several different positions so that it can get out of the way.
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Holley also has a cool line of valve covers that hide the coil packs of LS engines. Note: these will have to be cut to fit your application and will not fit over the stock truck coils.
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Shown is a very nice pair of Patriot coated headers for LS engines. These particular headers fit Gen-2 Camaros and the ’75-79 Nova with the LS conversion. Patriot is also working on a few different style headers that will fit our classic trucks that include the popular ’63-72 C10 and the later ’73-87 C10.
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Eddie Motorsports has a cool serpentine kit that we installed on the LS engine. The S-drive Serpentine Pulley Kit comes complete with everything you need including all new name-brand components, Edelbrock rebuildable aluminum water pump, Sanden A/C compressor, Maval power steering pump, Powermaster 140a alternator, and ATI damper. Retail price for black anodized is (MS107-60CC) $2,595. The kit is also available inbright polished (MS107-60P $2,495), or raw machined (MS107-60M; $2,395) finishes.
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LM7 5.3L Engine Upgrade Guide: Expert Advice for LM7 Mods to Maximize Performance
[Editor’s Note: This LM7 engine upgrade guide is part of a series of LS engine upgrade guides assembled by a team of LS experts at Summit Racing that we are sharing at OnAllCylinders. For a primer on the entire LS engine universe, read LS Engines 101: An Introductory Overview of the Gen III/IV LS Engine Family.]…
Intro to LM7 Engines
Meet the hidden gem that helped start the LS-swap craze.
The LM7 (along with its L59 FlexFuel E85-capable brother) are the Gen. III, 5.3L iron block truck engines you can pick up in wrecking yards for about $600.
There were a couple key areas where the LM7 excelled:
1. It makes sense for engine swaps.
Fully dressed, it’s a bit lighter than Gen. I/II engines and easier to find one in good shape. Even bottled up and 25 cubic inches smaller, it matched the power and torque of the F-body LT-1’s. The later 2004-07 versions were right there with the C4 Corvette’s LT1. With the availability of engine swap kits, it just makes good sense to use Gen. III/IV engines.
2. Drag racing.
The aluminum blocks made good power naturally aspirated, but they aren’t the best choice with big boost and nitrous. Although the iron block LM7 is a bit heavier, you can really pour the coals to it. Because of their strength, these engines are likely to see a power-adder sooner than later.
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[Every engine spec you’ll need can be found here: LM7 5.3L Vortec 5300 Engine Specs: Performance, Bore & Stroke, Cylinder Heads, Cam Specs & More.]…
How to Get More Power From Your LM7
These engines started life in GM trucks, but there’s just as much of a chance today that you’ll spot them under the hood of a turbocharged drag car.
This article is focused on the power-adder pathway for upgrading the LM7, whether it will remain in a truck or be swapped into a car.
The LM7 is one of the most popular LS engines for several reasons:
With iron block strength, it is a great choice for boost or nitrous applications.
GM made a bazillion of them over eight years. The abundance of LM7 engines available helps keep prices down.
Gen. 3 engines didn’t have AFM (Active Fuel Management) or VVT (Variable Valve Timing) , so you don’t have the expense of an AFM or VVT delete kit.
or , so you don’t have the expense of an AFM or VVT delete kit. The heads flow similarly to LS6 heads, but have a boost-friendly 9.5:1 compression ratio.
Do they have a downside? Just one. At 216 pounds, the block is 100 lbs. heavier than the aluminum LS1 block.
Basic Bolt-On Upgrades for LM7 Engines
Trucks are the everyday hotrods of the 21st century.
Many people start off adding a cold air intake and aftermarket exhaust.
The problem is that the engine starts to sound REALLY good and owners find themselves wanting to go faster.
Trucks often come with mechanical fans that sap horsepower. An electric fan kit will free up the power. All these can be done in the garage, but the tune won’t be optimized.
At this point, we recommend you talk to your chassis dyno tuner and decide on a computer programmer. Whether you’re towing on low-octane or springing for good fuel, a tuner can dial-in the ECM and take it to the next level.
Shift points can be raised which also makes it easier tune for a bigger cam and injectors later. Additionally, installing a colder thermostat will open up the tuning window.
Below are more upgrades that will improve LM7 engine performance.
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Upgrading the LM7 Camshaft and Valvetrain
If you only do one thing to the engine, make it a cam swap.
The tiny 191 at .050-inch cam really held these engines back.
An LS3 or LS9 cam makes good power, but not where you want it, if the engine remains in a truck.
What you need is a cam that delivers a gut-punch right where the converter hits. We recommend a dedicated truck cam.
If the engine is going in a lighter car with gear and converter, you can be more aggressive.
What’s the difference between a truck cam and car cam?
To maximize torque in the mid-range in a truck cam, manufacturers close the intake valve at about 40 degrees (@.050 in.) after bottom dead center and alter the intake valve opening to set the idle quality.
The bigger the engine, the smoother it will idle for any given cam, which is why you’ll see the 5.3L LM7 getting slightly smaller cams than the 6.0L engines.
What if you have a power adder?
Generally, supercharger cams and nitrous cams will have slightly more lobe separation and longer exhaust duration. Turbo cams reduce overlap with less exhaust duration in relation to the intake.
Intake Duration (@ 0.050 in.) Horsepower at the wheels after bolt-ons Idle Quality Notes 191° (Stock) 260-270 whp Smooth Heavy drivetrain. 215° +50 hp Slightly noticeable Good with auto and stock converter. 220° – 230° +75 hp Steady lope Converter recommended. Still can drive daily. 230° – 240° +100 hp Lopey Fly-cutting the pistons may be required. Heads and intake good for another 50+ hp.
Drop-in .500-in. lift cams are popular, but LS6 springs allow you to run .550-in. lift and extend the rpm range. Spring life isn’t a problem because trucks generally don’t spend a lot of time at high rpm.
Beyond that, .575 to .600 in. isn’t a problem with dual valve springs.
The stock rockers are good up to 175 lbs. of seat pressure and 450 lbs. open. You will want to install a trunnion kit for added reliability.
There are a few other parts needed for a LM7 cam swap such as an LS2 timing chain, LS7 spec lifters, LS2 timing chain damper and adapter, as well as .080 in. wall pushrods.
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LM7 Power Adders
In general, most LM7 owners will add boost or nitrous before they begin serious cylinder head work. Before we get into the power adders, there are a couple of things to address.
1. A 4-corner steam kit reduces hot spots that can cause the piston rings to butt and snap the piston’s ring lands.
2. Any power will put you well past the limitations of the stock injectors and fuel pump. We’ll address those in the next section.
Now for the fun stuff:
A nitrous oxide kit (at low settings) is great for street driving with stock internals. Up to a 200-shot system is common. Keep in mind the tight piston ring gap is the limiting factor beyond that. If you want to get serious, a single-plane intake is less prone to break from a nitrous backfire. A plate system has better distribution than the original intake, but an eight-nozzle fogger system is even better. Running higher-octane fuel is advised.
(at low settings) is great for street driving with stock internals. Up to a 200-shot system is common. Keep in mind the tight piston ring gap is the limiting factor beyond that. If you want to get serious, a single-plane intake is less prone to break from a nitrous backfire. A plate system has better distribution than the original intake, but an eight-nozzle fogger system is even better. Running higher-octane fuel is advised. Truck engine bays make fitting turbos easy. Single turbo systems using turbo exhaust manifolds are an inexpensive way to make big power. If you’re running a single turbo, the T4 hot-side fits well, but the small-turbine diameters limit exhaust flow. The 650 whp begins to feel like 400 did in a hurry, so take this into consideration. V-band style exhaust housings open up the turbine options and make plumbing easier. Although twins are a little more expensive out of the box, you’ll have more room to grow.
are an inexpensive way to make big power. If you’re running a single turbo, the T4 hot-side fits well, but the small-turbine diameters limit exhaust flow. The 650 whp begins to feel like 400 did in a hurry, so take this into consideration. V-band style exhaust housings open up the turbine options and make plumbing easier. Although twins are a little more expensive out of the box, you’ll have more room to grow. A roots-style supercharger is dependable and makes great torque in the low- and mid-rpm range. It’s great for melting tires.
is dependable and makes great torque in the low- and mid-rpm range. It’s great for melting tires. A centrifugal-style supercharger is lightweight and makes more power at high rpm. This is partially due to a larger intercooler mounted in front of the radiator.
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Upgrading the LM7 Fuel System and Tuning
The factory LM7 injectors were only rated at 22-25 lbs. and won’t support much more than 380 hp.
Plan on upgrading to larger fuel injectors to meet the fuel demands of increased power.
Custom tuning will be required to properly adjust the fuel and ignition timing. Truck manifolds had 1.9-in. injectors versus the longer Gen. III car injectors or the shorter Gen. IV injectors. The connectors are different as well, but adapters and spacers can be used to fit car injectors on an LM7.
Keep in mind, the best injectors are fully characterized which helps your tuner maximize idle quality, etc.
When running boost, you can use a water-methanol system to supply extra fuel and lower-charge air temps.
The factory pump is good to about 430 whp. Many fuel system upgrade options are available. Drop-in fuel pump modules and external pumps are popular. Other options to maintain or increase pump pressure include electronic voltage controllers and hotwire kits.
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Upgrading the LM7 Intake Manifold and Throttle Body
If you have a power adder, the intake and throttle body can take a backseat for a while longer. If you are naturally aspirated though, upgrading the intake and throttle body is commonly done before the heads.
The factory truck-style manifold has long runners for better low-end torque. Porting the intake is an option and a good value.
If you’re looking for more power and torque, the Trailblazer SS intake is a step up and a larger 90mm 4-bolt throttle body can be fitted.
The F.A.S.T. LSXRT intake allows a bigger 102mm+ throttle body. Truck engine bays also accommodate Tunnel Rams. These trade a little bit of torque down low for more up high—and nothing looks cooler.
Manifold Style Peak Horsepower Torque Single Plane +10 hp Losses everywhere below 5500 rpm. *Only recommended for nitrous or boost. Trailblazer SS +10 hp Maintains torque and pulls ahead at 4500 rpm. F.A.S.T. LSXRT +25 hp More low-end and top-end. Tunnel Ram +35 hp Slightly lower below 3000, equal at 4500, and big gains beyond 5500.
Ask your tuner about going with a Speed Density tune. Doing so removes the MAF restriction and will give you a bit more power.
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[Trying to find an LS or LS-based Vortec engine for a swap or build? Check out Part 1 and Part 2 of our LS Spotter’s Guide.]…
Upgrading LM7 Cylinder Heads
The stock heads can be CNC ported for more airflow and milled up to .030 in. for more compression. Flow numbers can be as high as 325 cfm at .600 lift. Lightweight hollow stem LS3 valves can be cut to 2.000 in. to fit the seats. Between the light valves and better springs, the engines will pull cleanly to 7000 rpm. Keep in mind, if you’re looking to boost to 800+ hp; a heavy duty aftermarket stainless intake valve is a bit tougher and won’t tulip as quickly with the heat.
A better option is aftermarket cathedral port heads. They reduce down-time, they’re all new, and you can usually offset the added cost by selling your original heads. Valve angles are typically laid over to 13.5 degrees and 2.040-in. intake valves are common. They flow great and the cross-sections are great for boost. When comparing heads, look at .400 lift numbers as a general indicator of how the heads will perform. With a medium-sized cam, 400+ whp naturally aspirated is common even with the heavier truck drivetrain.
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Upgrading the LM7 Rotating Assembly
Still looking for more?
As mentioned before, the pistons are a weak point and you probably know a guy that’s popped one. A set of forged pistons should be high on your priority list. They have stronger wristpins, thicker ring lands, and the added valve reliefs allow you to run big cams. If you’re going over 800 horsepower, a set of .200 wall tool-steel pins is a good idea.
There are exceptions, but Gen. III rods start getting dicey around 750 whp and the bolts don’t like much more than 7,000 rpm. The 2004½-07 modes were bushed for full-floating pins and were stronger. If you’re getting forged pistons, it’s best to also get forged connecting rods with 7/16-in. rod bolts.
The LM7 crank was cast but strong. They’ve been known to handle over 1,000 whp. The main reason for going with a stroker forged crank is for the added cubic inches. The extra cubes bring boost on quicker which means you can use bigger turbos.
Performance rotating assemblies are available in many combinations.
Notes of caution:
The 5.3L iron blocks had shorter cylinder sleeves than the aluminum blocks (5.430 in. vs. 5.500 in., on average). Much of the piston skirt drops out of the bottom of the cylinder at BDC. The best piston manufacturers have compensated for this by eliminating skirt taper until a point well above where it meets the bottom of the cylinder sleeve at BDC. Any skirt taper at this intersection acts as a razor blade and will wear out the piston quickly.
The blueprint deck height of the block is 9.240 in., but it’s common to find them in the 9.230-in. range. It’s best to measure deck height before ordering your rotating assembly. Thicker head gaskets or using an aftermarket 6.098- to 6.100-in. rod will ensure enough piston-to-head clearance.
Engine Size Bore Dia. Piston Comp. Height Stroke Rod Length Wristpin Dia. 5.3L
(325 c.i.d. – stock) 3.780 in. 1.338 in. 3.622 in. 6.098 in. 0.9431-.09449 in. 5.7L
(347 c.i.d.) 3.905 in. 1.338 in. 3.622 in. 6.098 in. 0.9431-.09449 in. 6.0L
(363 c.i.d.) 3.800 in. 1.115 in. 4.000 in. 6.125 in. 0.927 in. 6.3L
(383 c.i.d.) 3.905 in. 1.338 in. 4.000 in. 6.125 in. 0.927 in.
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Upgrading the LM7 Engine Block
The 5.3L iron blocks can be bored to the LS1’s size.
If you’re running boost and nitrous, most will just hone the blocks to 3.800-in. or up depending on piston and ring availability.
The blocks have been known to withstand 1,300 whp with proper machining, racing fuel, and an excellent tune.
Head and main studs are advised if you’re making more than 850 whp. Four head bolts per cylinder aren’t optimal, but you can O-ring the block if you’re aiming for 1000+ whp.
The factory main caps aren’t doweled. It’s better to reduce ignition timing and compensate with added boost to reduce the cylinder pressure spikes that lift heads and cause the main caps to dance.
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(Information for this article originally appeared in the “Upgrading the Gen. 3, 5.3L, Iron Block, LS Truck Engines” article at Summit Racing’s searchable database of FAQ tech info. Go there and search “LS engines” for a comprehensive collection of LS engine tech information.)
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