Top 14 How Much Horsepower Does A 383 Have The 82 Correct Answer

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The 383 stroker engines have been reported to achieve 330 horsepower with 410 foot-pounds of Torque, 395 horsepower with 410 foot-pounds of Torque and 395 horsepower with 410 foot-pounds of Torque.So, as a given rule, the more cubic inches an engine is, the more power it will make. However, the horsepower output will largely depend on the overall combination you are using. We could take a 500″ short block and with stock heads and a mild cam, it might make around 450-475 horsepower.The HP94 Chevy 383ci stroker from ATK is being offered by Jegs at the low price of $3,993.99, but is found throughout a range of big-box stores, so it might pay to shop around some, as is the case with any large-volume crate engine commodity like a Chevy 383ci stroker.

That combo would probably make around 465 hp and nearly 500 lb-ft, but at less rpm. But never mind that.
…
Hot Rod’s Proven Recipe For A Simple Chevy 383 That Knocks Down 500 HP And 500 LB-FT.

True 383 Power
RPM	LB-FT	HP
5,700	462	501
5,800	457	505
5,900	450	505

•

13 thg 10, 2009

Contents

How much horsepower can a 383 stroker make?

How much HP does a stroker kit add?

So, as a given rule, the more cubic inches an engine is, the more power it will make. However, the horsepower output will largely depend on the overall combination you are using. We could take a 500″ short block and with stock heads and a mild cam, it might make around 450-475 horsepower.

How much is a 383 stroker motor?

The HP94 Chevy 383ci stroker from ATK is being offered by Jegs at the low price of $3,993.99, but is found throughout a range of big-box stores, so it might pay to shop around some, as is the case with any large-volume crate engine commodity like a Chevy 383ci stroker.

Can a 383 stroker make 600hp?

It can’t be done. You just can’t make a lot of power with cheap cast-iron heads. Certainly you can’t make 600 hp out of a 383 with them. And for sure you can’t do it without a bunch of compression.

How many MPG does a 383 stroker get?

I’ve got a 383 Stroker (10:1 with Dart heads) in my 66 with a properly tuned 650 Holley vacuum secondary carb and MSD Pro Billet ign system. I’m getting an average of 9/10 mpg on 93 non ethanol gas. I don’t “punch” the car often and most cruising down the road is done at 3-35K.

Are stroker kits worth it?

Some people avoid installing a stroker kit as it can interfere with the natural character of the powertrain, but the additional gains may be worth it if you’re looking for maximum power gains at the wheels.

What is the benefit of a stroker motor?

A stroker is an engine that has been modified to increase the length of the stroke and therefore has a greater engine capacity. Its benefits are improved torque and power.

What makes more power bore or stroke?

The short answer is that a bigger bore is generally the best way to get more power. It creates more space, allowing for bigger valve openings, which in turn can bring more fuel and air into the cylinder.

How fast is a 383 stroker?

The rod and piston have to travel in a larger diameter in the same engine rpm. This increases the piston speed, which makes the stroker pull more air at a lower engine rpm. A 383 has the same piston speed at 2,500 rpm that a 350 has at 3,100 rpm.

Can you turn a 350 into a 383 stroker?

The biggest advantage to putting a crankshaft from a Chevy 400 into a 350 block to produce 383 cubic inches is that more displacement equals more power. Also, the longer crank throw produces more downward thrust, which translates into torque. And torque is what we’re after, especially in a truck.

What size block is a 383 stroker?

Car Craft has scoured the earth to assemble all the details around building a stroker 383 Chevy.

DISPLACEMENT	BORE	NOTES
377	4.155	400 block (+0.030), 350 crank
377	4.000	350 block standard bore, 400 crank
383	4.030	350 block (+0.030), 400 crank
388	4.060	350 block (+0.060), 400 crank

1 thg 8, 2008

How fast is a 383 stroker?

Does stroking an engine increase horsepower?

There are only two ways to increase an engine’s displacement: You can bore it (engine boring increases the cylinder diameters) or you can stroke it (engine stroking increases the crankshaft stroke).

How much HP can a 350 make?

The Chevy 350 engine is a 350 cubic inch (5.7-liter) small block V8 with a 4.00 and 3.48 inch bore and stroke. Depending on the year, make and model of a car, horsepower ranges from approximately 145 to more than 370.

What crank is used in a 383 stroker?

Car Craft has scoured the earth to assemble all the details around building a stroker 383 Chevy.

DISPLACEMENT	BORE	NOTES
377	4.000	350 block standard bore, 400 crank
383	4.030	350 block (+0.030), 400 crank
388	4.060	350 block (+0.060), 400 crank
395	4.030	350 block (+0.030), custom crank

1 thg 8, 2008

Project Chevelle Episode 16: 383 vs. LS Shootout

Chevy 383 Engine – We Build a Small-Block That Makes 500HP and 500 LB-FT – Hot Rod Magazine

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Summary of article content: Articles about Chevy 383 Engine – We Build a Small-Block That Makes 500HP and 500 LB-FT – Hot Rod Magazine Updating …
Most searched keywords: Whether you are looking for Chevy 383 Engine – We Build a Small-Block That Makes 500HP and 500 LB-FT – Hot Rod Magazine Updating In this engine tech article HOT ROD shows you how to build a 383ci small-block Chevy stroker engine for your hot rod or musclecar that makes 500 horsepower and 500 lb-ft torque – Hot Rod Magazine
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Most searched keywords: Whether you are looking for How much horsepower does a 383 stroker have? Updating The ZZ383 Performance engine has more than 400hp and over 450 ft-pounds of Torque. The 383 stroker engines have been reported to achieve 330 horsepower with 410 foot-pounds of Torque, 395 horsepower with 410 foot-pounds of Torque and 395 horsepower with 410 foot-pounds of Torque.
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How much horsepower does a 383 stroker have?

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Summary of article content: Articles about 383 Stroker Specifications | It Still Runs The GM HT383 Base Performance engine has 435 foot-pounds of torque at 4,000 rpm and boasts more than 400 foot-pounds of torque starting at 2,500 rpm. The GM … …
Most searched keywords: Whether you are looking for 383 Stroker Specifications | It Still Runs The GM HT383 Base Performance engine has 435 foot-pounds of torque at 4,000 rpm and boasts more than 400 foot-pounds of torque starting at 2,500 rpm. The GM … The 383 stroker engine is typically installed in a vehicle to increase horsepower and torque. The GM small block 5.7-liter 350 is the base for the 383 stroker; the 350 crankshaft is exchanged for a GM small block 400 crankshaft. The 400 crankshaft rod journals produce a longer stroke for the engine and create a larger …
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383 Stroker Specifications | It Still Runs

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Summary of article content: Articles about 383 Stroker Specifications | It Still Runs 030″ over 350 is actually a 355 cubic incher, and at 1HP per cubic inch for a mild build, we would get 355 HP. The same goes for a typical 383 using the same … …
Most searched keywords: Whether you are looking for 383 Stroker Specifications | It Still Runs 030″ over 350 is actually a 355 cubic incher, and at 1HP per cubic inch for a mild build, we would get 355 HP. The same goes for a typical 383 using the same … The 383 stroker engine is typically installed in a vehicle to increase horsepower and torque. The GM small block 5.7-liter 350 is the base for the 383 stroker; the 350 crankshaft is exchanged for a GM small block 400 crankshaft. The 400 crankshaft rod journals produce a longer stroke for the engine and create a larger …
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Summary of article content: Articles about How much Horsepower does a 383 stroker with dual quads have? – Quora I would need a lot more information to guesstimate what the horsepower of this engine would have. First of all who’s the manufacturer ? does it have ported … …
Most searched keywords: Whether you are looking for How much Horsepower does a 383 stroker with dual quads have? – Quora I would need a lot more information to guesstimate what the horsepower of this engine would have. First of all who’s the manufacturer ? does it have ported … I would need a lot more information to guesstimate what the horsepower of this engine would have. First of all who's the manufacturer ? does it have ported aluminum heads on it? does it have a big cam or a small cam? does it have a roller cam or s…
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How much Horsepower does a 383 stroker with dual quads have? - Quora — How much Horsepower does a 383 stroker with dual quads have? – Quora

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SBC CHEVY 383 STROKER PRO STREET MOTOR 540 hp BASE ENGINE-PRO STREET | Skip White Performance – We have the best prices you will ever find for aluminum heads, rotating assemblies and strokers
Many machine shops fail to do this. The finish on most cranks are at the bare minimum of acceptance, and we know this can affect bearing life. We have measured … …
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SBC CHEVY 383 STROKER PRO STREET MOTOR 540 hp BASE ENGINE-PRO STREET | Skip White Performance – We have the best prices you will ever find for aluminum heads, rotating assemblies and strokers
Many machine shops fail to do this. The finish on most cranks are at the bare minimum of acceptance, and we know this can affect bearing life. We have measured …

SBC CHEVY HYDRAULIC ROLLER CAM 383 CUBIC INCH PRO STREET ENGINE 540 HP STREET ROD SETUP.

RUNS ON PREMIUM PUMP GAS.
This engine is fully assembled from intake to oil pan.

Important note.

Our user id is: skipwhite, and our store name is whiteperformance1. You may have noticed other sellers using a similar name offering similar products. These other sellers have capitalized on our name as we see it, and many customers searching for us will inadvertently find them, thinking we are one in the same company. There is only one “Skip White.” We are the original premier seller under this name since approximately 2003. We have no other names, nor are we associated with any other company regardless of the similarity in the name or location. Our official company name is Skip White Performance. Please see the article in the lower part of this ad for a more detailed explanation.

ROLLER BLOCK WITH SPLAYED MAIN CAPS.
FORGED 4.030 BORE WISECO PISTONS, SCAT 3.750 STROKE CRANK, AND 6.0 OR 5.7 SCAT RODS. NKB ALUMINUM HEADS.
FULLY ASSEMBLED FROM INTAKE TO OIL PAN.
4.030″ BORE X 3.750″ STROKE
– GM ROLLER BLOCK WITH 4 BOLT MAIN CAPS.
– NKB ALUMINUM ALLOY HEADS.
– COMP CAMS ROLLER CAM. A CUT ABOVE THE OTHERS.
– SA GEAR BILLET TIMING SET WITH TORRINGTON BEARING AND ROLON CHAIN 9 KEYWAY. TOP OF THE LINE.
– COMP HIGH ENERGY ALUMINUM ROCKERS 1.5 OR 1.6 RATIO.
– SCAT CRANKSHAFT, CLEVITE BEARINGS. BALANCED ON OUR CWT BALANCER TO BELOW 2 GRAMS.
– SCAT COMPETITION RODS WITH ARP 2000 CAP SCREWS.
– WISECO PREMIUM FORGED PISTONS. 800+HP RATED.
– MELLING M-SELECT SERIES OIL PUMP WITH M-SELECT DRIVE ROD.
– CHAMP OIL PAN WITH OIL CONTROL SYSTEM.
– PRO-RACE SFI DAMPER.
– ONE YEAR WARRANTY.
This engine is designed for street/strip use. Pump gas friendly.
We also offer this engine in a de-tuned form with multiple cam and intake options in our other listings. Those engines are titled as our “Stage 2.0” 383 engines. They are available in a base model, turn key, or serpentine turn key. The Pro Street engines will have diminished drivability, and are not recommended for high mileage driving in excess of 5,000 miles per year. They are setup to obtain the highest practical horse power numbers for street and strip use, and they also have a very aggressive idle and overall engine tone. The Pro Street engines are not recommended for use in cars with overdrive transmissions, or cars with steep gearing. Our Pro Street engines have several internal upgrades that our regular “Stage” series of engines do not have.
ONE year warranty, see details below.

We do a full test run on every engine we build on a test mule. The engine is run for two intervals of 15 minutes each, and every possible issue is addressed. When you install the engine, you must verify that the timing is set at the correct value, and the fuel to air ratio must be verified. We also include an engine stand like the one pictured, wheels included, and an engine lift plate.
As of 2/15/2019 we completed installation of third brand new Super Flow 902S dyno. In the past, we outsourced our dyno work. We were unable to do the research and development we truly wanted, and this prompted us to once again make the $105,000 investment. It’s been one of the best investments we have ever made. Every aspect of our engines can now be monitored, calibrated, and tuned. Best of all, we can now see what combos generate the best power, with consideration to drivability.
The build sheet is as follows:

The bare block is a fully machined re-manufactured true GM late model roller block. 1 pc. rear main seal style and designed for street or strip applications. All internals and external items in this engine are 100% brand new.
The compression range will be approx. 10.95:1. We do not see any problems with this compression range in light to medium weight cars with proper gearing. Premium fuel only.
This 4 bolt main bare block used for this engine is an OEM late model GM roller block that has been fully reconditioned/re-manufactured. The rotating assembly and all other parts except the block are 100% brand new.
The blocks used for building our 383 do have four bolt main caps.

These blocks will accept mechanical fuel pumps.

As you can see in the picture above, this is a true roller block.

Listed below are all the machining procedures performed on this block. These are 1 pc. rear main seal style.

Mains have been line-honed to factory specs. This important procedure is often skipped, and failure to do this usually results in a short-lived build.
Block has been bored and torque plate honed. The use of a torque plate when honing is a very important procedure, and many blocks on the market don’t have this performed.

Pictured below is the rotating assembly that comes in this engine.
(file photo, actual parts may vary, see details below)

The photos above and below are file photos. Actual appearance may vary. This picture is to give you an idea of parts used in the rotating assembly portion of this engine. All parts are brand new, first line, unblemished, and balanced in house.
READ THIS LISTING COMPLETELY BEFORE YOU BUY ELSEWHERE!
**********************************************************
Crankshaft Specs.

Crankshaft: Genuine Scat
Crankshaft Stroke: 3.750″
Crankshaft Material : Cast Nodular
Journal Diameter: STD SBC
Rear Main Seal: 2pc RMS

Connecting Rod Specs.

Rods: Genuine Scat
Rod Type: Competition Series, Bronze Bushed.
Rod Length: 6.0″ OR 5.7″
Rod Material: Forged 4340 Alloy.
Rod Bolt/Cap Screw: ARP 2000 Cap Screws.

Piston & Ring Specs.

Pistons: Wiseco Fully Forged. High Performance for street/strip use.
Piston Size: 4.030″
Dome Volume: Flat Top Comp. ratio calculates out to approx. 10.95:1
Compression Height: 1.140
Piston Material: Forged 2618 Aircraft Alloy
Piston Rings: Mahle moly, Reduced Tension Oil Ring
Ring Size and Fit: 5/64 5/64 5/64.
Ring Material: Cast/Stainless/Moly

Bearing, Damper, and Flexplate Specs.

Main Bearings: Clevite
Rod Bearings: Clevite
Balance: In House on CWT balancer.
Damper: Pro-Race brand SFI 6.61″
Flexplate: Heavy Duty SFI. Manual Trans. flywheels available.

Flat top pistons will be used in this engine.

The Wiseco forged pistons are rated very high in the street/strip performance industry. They

are made using the 2618 aircraft alloy and have fully machined crowns. We prefer the 2618 alloy over the lower cost 4032 alloy. This alloy may fragment from the effects of detonation and if this happens, it can be very destructive to the engine.

Those types of pistons are fine for stock or mild engine builds, but should never be used in carbureted engines built to high horse power levels.

The forged 2618 alloy piston is much more resistant to the effects of detonation and heat.

Our Wiseco Forged pistons are custom designed with an increase in compression height. This has many advantages. Here are a few facts about compression height and deck height.

Our custom made pistons have a compression height that is .010 taller on bbc pistons, and .015 taller on sbc pistons, as compared to most all of the catalog pistons on the market. We find this to be a very valuable feature.

Since our pistons sit at a taller than normal compression height, we only have to remove approx. .005-.010 off the deck surface of the block. Our goal is set the piston at zero deck (flush with the deck surface). This maintains the deck’s thickness, making it much stronger than a block that has been cut down .025. The engine will also run a bit cooler with a thicker deck. It’s well known that the deck dissipates much of the built up heat an engine generates. This also allows for future deck re-surfacing without compromising the integrity of the block. On our bbc engines, we actually leave the piston about .003 to .005 in the hole to allow for possible piston rock. Our sbc engines will have the pistons setting right at zero with the deck.

You may have noticed that our Wiseco custom made forged pistons are referred to as Racing Pistons on the package. This does not mean that the pistons are for racing only. This is a generic term, referring to their ability to be used in high performance applications as well as for street rod use. These pistons are perfectly designed for use on the street, as well as for medium to upper level drag racing.

We have built approximately 5000 engines using the Wiseco pistons. The engines have been for street rod and strip use. We have seen no problems, nor have there been any complaints. They are an excellent product in every respect.

These pistons are also suitable for use with nitrous or blower setups.

The pictures below are file photos of our Wiseco pistons. Flash glare on the piston top seems to have enhanced the milling marks. These are hardly visible with the naked eye.
Flat top Wiseco forged pistons

MAHLE RINGS AND KING MAIN AND ROD BEARINGS INCLUDED.
The Mahle rings have a reduced tension bottom ring. We have found these rings to dyno out at approx. 5-8 more hp in our 383 engines.

Scat Crankshaft

The picture below is a generic file photo of a Scat crankshaft.

Some of the benefits of the Scat crankshaft:
The material used in this crankshaft is manufactured from an exclusive Space Age material that was designed for high strength and fatigue resistance. The Scat cranks are the best value you will ever find. The Scat crankshafts are the best way to build a strong bottom end for, street rods, dirt and circle track racing, and drag strip racing.

Crank Polishing.
Pictured below is our ABS crank polishing machine in action. We polish the crank on every engine we build. This extends bearing life, keeps oil cooler, and with the reduced friction, a slight increase in horsepower is gained. Many machine shops fail to do this. The finish on most cranks are at the bare minimum of acceptance, and we know this can affect bearing life. We have measured the RA finish with our profilometer, and found it to be as high as 25 RA finish on many of the cranks. We bring that number down considerably.

We now use the Clevite bearings in our engines.

Our choice of rods are the SCAT COMPETITION SERIES rods with ARP-2000 cap screws.

The Scat Pro-Comp extreme duty I-beam rods should not be mistaken for ProComp rods. These rods are made exclusively by Scat, and have nothing to do with the ProComp company. The critical sizing and installation of the ARP cap screws is performed on a Sunnen machine in the USA by Scat Industries. These rods are excellent for those wanting the extra security offered by a rod with 7/16 ARP cap screws.
Take notice of the design of these rods. They are far superior to conventional style I-beam rods. We are now using this rod in all of our Stage 4 and up SBC engines. We also use this rod in our big block 505/540/555 engines, making approx. 700+hp.
If you do a search on the Scat Pro-Comp rods, you will find a vast amount of info on many car forums. All of the info is 100% positive. These rods are run in engines that not only produce high horsepower levels, but also run at continuous RPM. Notice the general appearance in the pictures. These rods do look impressive. The style is reminiscent of a steel billet rod.
The fact that these rods are incredibly strong and well made, coupled with the fact they are light weight and offer better clearance than any H-Beam rod on the market, made it an easy decision to use them in all of our high horsepower street/strip engines.
We use genuine Scat rods with ARP cap screws in all of our engines. Our Scat rods are bronze bushed, and unlike Eagle I beam rods, these are fully forged 4340 alloy.
We have noticed some engine builders using low cost generic rods and crankshafts in their engines. These non-branded, (no-name) products are often poor quality in many ways. You will notice many of the low end engine builders fail to mention the actual brand of the rods or cranks used in their engines. Upon further investigation you will find such parts not to be a branded name product. They may label these parts with a name, but one that is totally unrecognizable in the industry. Our experience in years past with such rods and cranks has been disappointing to say the least. Besides the obvious issues such as incorrect sizing and machining that is difficult to correct, the questionable alloy these items may be produced from and the potentially incorrect heat treating methods used, could prove to be disastrous. Little can be done to verify this and nothing can be done to correct it. Failures of such critical parts will usually result in catastrophic damage to the engine. As you may have noticed, this is why we specify the brand name and series of every part used in our engines.
Genuine ARP 2000 cap screws.

PRO RACE BRAND SFI PERFORMANCE PRODUCTS DAMPER 6.61″

Pro Sport Series, made by Pro Race Performance Products. S.F.I. internally balanced.

BILLET ALUMINUM TIMING POINTER. FEW SELLERS FINISH OFF THEIR TURN KEY ENGINES AS WE DO.

We did not offer this billet timing pointer in the past. However, we noticed that there was a birds-eye view of the timing pointer from the driver side of the engine, so we decided to use these on all of our engines.

1.52″ THICKNESS, 2.38″ THICKNESS WITH HUB

HEAVY DUTY SFI RATED FLEXPLATE MADE IN THE USA INCLUDED.

This SFI flexplate is made in the USA and will resist cracking and warpage to a very high degree. One good telltale in identifying a low quality flexplate is the lack of welding on each side where the plate mates to the ring gear. They usually have a pale grey color to them, as they are not coated, and will rust quickly. Ours are welded on both sides, and are much thicker than an OE plate, and are zinc dichromate coated.
We do offer this engine with a manual flywheel. In most cases we do have both sizes, 153 and 168 tooth, available.
Our CWT 5500 Balancer.
We do our own balancing with our new state of the art CWT 5500 Series balancers. The CWT 5500 is the ultimate for precision balancing. We now have three of these in our machine shop. We consider this machine to be highly advanced compared to the Hines balancer we once used. We balance every rotating assembly we sell within 2 grams or less at no extra charge. A balance sheet is included with your engine.

Three new CWT balance machines under one roof is a rare sight.

Our crew wrapping up for the day. Pardon the mess.

NKB 200cc ALUMINUM HEADS

Our new NKB-200 heads have been designed especially for us. After receiving many recommendations from our engine builders, we came up with the best quality, best flowing heads on the market relative to cost. The only way you’re going to get a set of heads that flow as well or better will be to spend at least double the cost or more. We have installed these heads on all of our 383 and 406 engines for the past two years. Many of these engines were dynoed on our new Superflo dyno. The engines had every possible combination of cam, intake and carb. The results have been amazing. These heads are excellent in design and quality. Our choice of hardware and precision assembly also contribute to the performance and reliability of the heads.

In the flowchart below, the NKB-200s are superior to the Procomp heads in flow rates, and also edge out the Dart SHP heads on the intake side. The intake numbers are far more important than the exhaust. The overall average flow numbers on the NKB-200 heads are higher than most any brand of non cnc’d cast aluminum heads on the market.

The difference in horsepower and torque generated by the NKB heads is monumental compared to most all of the low cost sbc heads on the market.

Here is a rundown on the hardware used in the NKB heads and the assembly process.

The retail cost at most High Performance stores on the PBM Competition valves is $239

We are now using the Competition Series PBM valves in all of our 383 and 406 engines. These are considered a high end valve. These valves have an undercut and backcut feature.
The backcut feature reduces valve weight by an average of 12.5 grams per valve. This weight reduction of approx. 208 grams off the complete set of valves has a monumental effect on acceleration, deceleration, and valve train life. It may be difficult to understand how this works, but rest assured, this is a huge reduction. The valve spring compression and rebound action will remain stable for a much longer time running lighter weight valves, as well as reducing valve float.
The backcut feature is not be mistaken for undercut. These valves have both features. Backcutting is an additional radius, but located on the head of the valve to increase the flow numbers and reduce valve weight. The flow increase is approx. 3-6 points on the flow bench, and possibly more, depending on the initial flow rate of the heads.
According to one of our machinists who built Winston Cup engines for 15 years, the exhaust valves had an additional radius cut on the outermost edge that allowed a better escape of the exhaust gas. This cut on the exhaust valve is in addition to the back-cut feature. The competition series are made from a much higher temp alloy than most other stainless valves. There are at least three levels of stainless valves on the market, excluding those used in very high level racing such as pro-mod. The PBM competition series is compared to the highest level of those three. As a final note, backcutting a set of valves is said to improve flow in the low lift area, and this is most desirable on street rods.

Comp High Performance Dual Springs, Part Number 987-16
Our Comp springs are 1.43 diameter, with an inner spring and internal damper. Others are using springs that are much smaller in diameter. Smaller diameter springs may be in the correct spring pressure zone, but they usually have a shorter life. Comp springs are made in the USA. All of our engines using the NKB heads use these springs. Spring failures are near non-existent.

COMP CAMS “POSITIVE STOP” VITON VALVE STEM SEALS. # 529-16

Comp 10 degree machined valve locks.
We use only Comp Super 10 degree machined locks. Our head builder noticed the low grade locks on the market fit more loosely than he felt they should, not to mention the possibility that they were made of inferior metal. He envisioned the engine being much more prone to dropping a valve at high rpm. Using these locks, we have yet to have an engine drop a valve due to a valve lock failure.

Comp Cams retainers # 75740-16 and Comp Cams ID locators Part number: 4771-16

Our Comp Cams retainers # 75740-16 and Comp ID locators # VTH-4771-16 are made from 4130 chromoly steel. These retainers have a perfect fit with the Comp valve locks. We have used these on all of our engines for many years, and have had zero failures.

Assembly Procedure
We hone all of the bronze valve guides with a ball berry flex hone to establish not only perfect clearance, but also a semi cross hatch finish for oil retention. We finish off with a natural bristle brush. The heads are then placed in our parts washer and cleaned with high pressure hot water, then pressure dried. Before installing the valves, we apply a heavy coat of engine assembly lube to the valve stems. The coating on the valve stems is essential to protect the bronze guides from gaulding on initial startup.

Our next step is to set the spring pressure to a predetermined pressure using a spring height checking device, most suitable for street rod use. The springs we are using allow for a near perfect seat to nose ratio. Be warned that some sellers of aftermarket heads may not be checking the installed height when assembling the heads, and may not be setting them up to the correct pressures. We have a full scale machine shop with several very knowledgeable engine builders that know and fully understand how to properly assemble a set of heads. Combine the possibility of poor assembly methods with incorrect or low grade hardware, and it is easy to see how failures can result.

Head gaskets are Fel Pro 1003 premium race grade series, and ARP head bolts, and rocker studs.

Comp Cams High Energy Aluminum Roller Rockers.

Important notice.
If you’ve read our warning on engine builders using low grade no-name rods and cranks, a similar situation exists in the roller rocker market. We do not use or sell non branded, (no-name) roller rockers, period. They have proven to be faulty in many ways. The center trunnions are not polished, nor is the center of the roller tip true to size or polished. Metal fragments are often left inside the trunnion housing and will cause destruction of the needle bearings. The pins and keepers that hold the parts together are often of poor quality and improperly installed. The front roller will usually scoot along the valve tip, as it can’t roll properly due to rough internal surfaces.

We have honestly seen valve tips that were scalloped out due to the front roller dragging across them. This will cause the valves to side-load against the valve guides in the heads and surely cause damage to them if run like this for very long.

We have scrutinized these products in the past and found all of the above problems, and I can tell you there are most likely many more. We would not use them in an engine under any circumstances. You will also see many of these rockers made from stainless on the market. They use a low grade stainless that actually has a near non-existent amount of nickel in them, but that’s not the real problem with them, as stainless steel has no advantage over high grade heat treated steel when it comes to a roller rocker. The lack of hardness of the rocker body is the real problem. The problems with these stainless rockers are the same as mentioned above. These are the roller rockers you see on the market for around $119 and up to $169 for the so called stainless ones. They are pure junk, in our honest opinion. They could possibly be used on a budget back yard stock build up that has a very low spring pressure, with a cam that has very low lift, but then you would be better off with the stock stamped rockers on such a build.

We have heard of many engines using these rockers that came apart and spilled needle bearings into the engine, only to end up in the oil pump. It seems like some engine builders do not care how long the parts in your engine last, or they simply don’t know this. I can tell you for sure that using such low grade, “no-name” roller rockers is asking for trouble.

We use Comp High Energy, Comp Ultra Pro Magnum, Comp Gold Arc, Scorpion Race and Endurance Series rockers in all of our engines. The difference in these compared to the low grade no-name rockers on the market is huge.
MOREL TIE BAR LIFTERS, HOWARDS CHROMOLY 1pc. .080 WALL PUSHRODS.

We use Howards brand premium pushrods in all of our engines. They are lightweight in design, yet very strong. Made in the USA from 4130 chromoly steel. Regular hardened pushrods will most likely flex in the engine when running above normal RPM ranges, and risk bending under high RPM. These do not have the welded ball on the end. We only use the swedged one pc. design, which is a well proven design far superior to the style many others use in engines. 4130 chromoly steel is also much stronger, and will resist flexing. When a pushrod flexes in the engine, you lose lift. Don’t be misled by the term “hardened,” as this is nothing more than a stock style low cost push rod. They will flex in the engine or possibly bend permanently.
Our choice of lifters are the Morel brand tie bar lifters. These lifters have many unique features. They greatly reduce valve float in the upper rpm range, and have a very quiet operation. These lifters sell for approx. $439 a set. They are a cut above the regular tie bar lifters on the market.

Special Grind # 13459

PART NUMBER: 12-000-8-11321

598/583 lift

253/261 duration
110 lobe sep.

Comp Cams SBC Xtreme Energy Step Nose Hydraulic Roller Camshafts.

This cam, coupled with our single plane intake and our flat top
forged pistons with 1.6 rockers, will produce right at 540 horsepower at approx. 6500 RPM. We recommend the dual plane intake for better drivability, and throttle response.

The single plane intake is not recommended for use in vehicles weighing over 3,800 lbs unless your vehicle is set up with a somewhat deep final gear, (3.55-3.73 ratio). Our cam timing components were left in the straight up position. Ignition timing was set at 34 degrees total and 93 octane fuel was used. During very hot weather, total timing should be set at 31-32 degrees. We recommend a stall converter in the 3000 rpm range with this engine.

Below are our dyno results on this engine with this cam and a single plane intake and the 1.6 rockers. We now are running the 1.5 rockers on these due to lifter limitations, and to increase reliability of the valve train. The horse power numbers will usually improve anywhere from 5-10 HP more than what the dyno results show after the rings have fully seated.

Official Dyno report on our 383 Pro Street engine.

Important note.

If you do choose to purchase our 383 Pro Street engine, it is highly recommended that you upgrade the ignition system to an MSD Pro Billet distributor and CDI unit. These important upgrades are essential for improved tuning, idling and overall performance. If you do decide to use the MSD Pro Billet distributor, we suggest you use the black timing degree bushing to increase the initial timing and possibly the lighter springs to control how soon the mechanical advance comes in. You may even “lock-out” the distributor, depending on your car’s overall setup. The CDI unit will make a huge improvement in how the engine runs at idle and low speed cruising, as well as high rpm operation.

The single plane intake (1st pic below) should only be used on cars that are very
lightweight and have good hood clearance.

We now offer the single plane intake in powder coated black finish as a $49.00 upgrade.

304 STAINLESS ALLEN HEAD INTAKE BOLTS ARE USED ON ALL OUR ENGINES.

Pictured below are some of our most popular valve covers. They are fabricated aluminum, and very high quality. You may select from any of the valve covers we have listed at no additional cost for your engine.

The satin covers below are by far the most popular.

RETRO STYLE FINNED. OUR SECOND MOST POPULAR CHOICE.

THE RETRO FINNED VALVE COVERS CONTRAST NICELY WITH THE CHROME AND POLISHED ITEMS.

Timing components: SA Gear 8999T billet double roller timing set.
Polished Aluminum Timing Cover.

We use the top of the line SA Gear timing set with a torrington bearing and rolon chain. The difference in quality is dramatic compared to the common low-cost timing set. The upper sprocket is made from billet steel and the lower is induction hardened with nine keyways. These sets are hand matched for selective sizing.
The cost on this high end timing set is approx $97.50, more than double the cost of the low level budget timing set used by many other engine builders. Should you ever want to confirm that this is what is actually in your engine, you can remove the timing cover, and you will see that this timing set is very different in appearance to the run of the mill low cost sets often used by others.
This timing set is offered in three different chain tension setups, allowing us to set it up perfectly every time. One more benefit is that timing accuracy is very precise and will remain that way. This timing set will likely last for the life of the engine. This is what you will find in most solid roller engines, as they have very high spring rates, and create an enormous load on the chain and gears, compared to non solid roller setups. It may seem like a bit of overkill to use such a high end timing set, but the versatility and extreme quality outweigh the cost, in our opinion.

Melling M-Select Oil Pump, and M-Select Drive rod with ARP stud.

The M-Select series oil pump by Melling has several important upgrades compared to the regular Melling M-55 Series. The gears are billet steel, and the body is stronger, coated with corrosion-resistant nitrite. This oil pump also includes the M-Select drive rod. Both components are far superior to the regular Melling oil pump and drive rods used by most other engine builders.

Champ premium oil pan.
If you choose the 7 qt. Champ oil pan, it has kickouts that swell outward approx. 3 inches on each side. If you think you will encounter clearance issues with the kickouts, we recommend the the stock appearing 5 qt. oil pan. The 5 qt. pan will still be a Champ pan and will have the windage tray and crank scraper. We strongly recommend reducing the amount of oil used in these oil pans by approx. 1/4th of a quart. Doing this may reduce the chance of oil leaks and reduce oil temps. The larger counter weights used on stroker crankshafts are why we recommend reducing the oil capacity in these engines.
To be clear on what we’re saying, we would like to see you add right at 6.75 quarts of oil grand total in your engine and oil filter when using the higher capacity oil pan. When using the stock appearing oil pan, we would like to see you add right at 4.75 quarts grand total in your engine and oil filter.
Our engines include a dipstick. It’s very important that you re-calibrate the oil level marking on the dipstick. This is due to the fact that the dipstick, oil pan, and block are all made from various manufacturers and we often see great variances. Couple this with the fact that you may be running a reduced amount of oil, and the “full” mark on the dipstick will most likely not indicate correctly. Once you have put a predetermined amount of oil in your engine, and run it for a few minutes, let it sit for awhile on level ground, check the oil, and mark your dipstick with a flat file to re-establish the full mark.

We do not use the knock off oil pan gaskets on the market. Felpro premium oil pan gaskets are used on all of our engines.
Pictured below is a file photo. The actual Felpro gasket used will be the correct model for this application.

Studded Mini Nut Set.

We use our premium studded mini nut set on all of our oil pans and valve covers. The nuts have a serrated face and built in washers. This is the ultimate set for securing the oil pan and valve covers to the engine and is far superior to the typical bolts used by most other engine builders. Our standard engine color is black. Custom paint work on engine blocks and oil pans is available as an optional upgrade. The pictures above and below are file photos to display the studded mini nuts. Other items seen in these pictures may not represent your actual engine.

Our new 383 engine is premium pump gas friendly. NEVER run regular 87 octane in this engine. Should you ever hear any sign of pinging or clatter in the engine when accelerating, reduce timing one or two degrees.
We include an engine lift plate and heavy duty engine stand with casters with every engine we build.

We offer this engine with selected upgrades and options. Listed below are some of the most requested ones. Many not only improve performance, but further enhance the reliability and longevity of your engine, along with resale value.

We offer premium grade Ram brand SFI Billet Steel flywheels for manual transmission use at an additional cost. See our other listings. This engine includes a flexplate for automatic transmission use at no additional cost.

When purchasing a flywheel for manual transmission use, be sure to know what tooth count you need. There are two sizes available, and it is of the utmost importance to select the flywheel that is correct for this engine. There are several factors that must be addressed when choosing your correct flywheel. The tooth count must be correct. This is very important. There are two sizes available, and it is the bellhousing size on the transmission that determines this. Another important factor is if the engine your purchasing is internally balanced often referred to as neutral balanced or if it is an externally balanced engine, often referred to as externally balanced. Big block and small block engines will also have a different bolt pattern in most cases. To sum it up, there are three important factors to look for when selecting the correct flywheel, tooth count, int. or ext bal. and whether or not you purchasing a big block or small block engine. The Ram brand flywheels we offer are very high quality. See our other listings for a complete line of the Ram brand SFI flywheels.

Dyno Tuning (Carbureted Engines): This is one of the most important upgrade/options we offer. There are many benefits to this service. The engine is first run at fast idle to bring the water and oil temp up to normal operating temperature. It is then run for approx. 20 minutes under a simulated load at around 3k rpm to promote initial ring seating. After this, the engine is shut down to allow us to check the readings on the spark plugs, and for any possible oil leaks. This cool down is considered part of the engine’s first heat cycle. We then follow up with multiple low to medium rpm runs to further the break-in process of all the moving parts in the engine. During these multiple runs, we are paying close attention to the EGT (exhaust gas temp) readings, vacuum pump readings, oil temp and pressure, coolant temp, and overall engine sound. At this point, we start the actual dyno tuning process and this focuses around the air to fuel ratio numbers and what timing numbers produce peak power. We usually have to change carb. jetting several times, adjust the idle circuits, and the air-bleeds occasionally have to be changed. We then establish the engine’s full horse power and torque numbers at a given rpm limit.
Having your engine dyno tuned will allow it to run at its absolute best, and is very important in protecting the engine from potential damage caused by the carburetor running excessively rich or lean. This also establishes the engine’s hp output and max rpm. These numbers are very important to know. There is one more value that we consider just as important to what we have mentioned above. An engine that has been dyno tuned has also been validated to be in perfect operating condition. This is something that running the engine on a test mule can’t provide. Any problems the engine may have will show up during the dyno tuning process. We have on rare occasion seen a popular combination show hp numbers that were not where they should be. Some of these problems give no indication other than reduced hp numbers. We find and fix such problems. The problem may be something simple and easy to find and in some cases very difficult to pinpoint. We will not send the engine out until it’s perfect. If you choose not to purchase the dyno tuning package, we will still do a test mule run, as many engine builders do, and it certainly is better than nothing but pales in comparison to a full dyno tuning. When engines are dyno tuned, the chances of you having a problem are near non-existent. Unforeseen problems may still occur, but they are rare. We have kept the cost on this extensive procedure low to not only make it affordable, but it gives us great peace of mind knowing the engine will be in perfect operating condition when it is received. The cost to do a repair once the engine is installed can be very expensive for both us as the seller and for the customer. When you see the final dyno run of your engine on youtube, consider the fact that approximately five man hours, around $25.00 worth of fuel, oil and filter, and $105K worth of dyno equipment went into making that one minute final test run video.
Cost of the full dyno tune option for carbureted engines is $350.00 We have this upgrade featured in our other listings. You can see this and other upgrade options in our ebay store under the “UPGRADES” category, or simply do a search with the key word, “Upgrade” in the search bar when shopping in our ebay store. Before you finalize your purchase of this engine, you may add any of these upgrades to your shopping cart. Click here to add upgrades.
Cost of the full dyno tune option for engines with EFI fuel systems will be $100 more.
Pictured below is one of our actual Super Flow dyno’s. This is a 2016 model and highly advanced compared to the much older models many shops have. We have two of these in use at our shop.

The Super Flow is the best dyno in the industry.

WARRANTY INFORMATION

This engine is warranted, with limitations and exclusions as set forth below, for one year from date of sale.

Should a major problem arise with this engine within the first six month of use, the warranty covers all parts and labor and we will pay for shipping the engine both ways.

Keep the crate your engine came in to ensure a safe return to our workshop.

We do not cover the removal or re-installation of the engine at any time during the warranty period.

Our engines must be used with a rev limiter. Should warranty issues arise, proof of the rev limiter use will be required.

Should a problem occur during the first six months of the warranty that we determine can be repaired by you or a qualified repair shop, upon our written approval, we will pay for the repair based on our in-house hourly rates for labor and our estimate of a reasonable amount of time to make the repair with the engine on a stand as you received it. To be specific, due to the difficulty of accessing certain engine parts in some vehicles, we are not responsible for the additional time and labor costs you may incur in removing and replacing such parts.

During the second half of the warranty we will cover all parts minus any labor to remove and install needed parts. The cost of shipping the engine to us is not covered in the second six months of warranty.

Tuning or maintenance are not covered under the warranty. Tuning includes jetting or adjusting the carb, ignition timing, or readjusting the rockers. Tuning would also include changing out plugs to optimize temp range for your needs. Setting ignition timing is also considered tuning. You must check the timing on this engine before it is driven.

Damage due to overheating, detonation or extreme abuse will not be covered by the warranty. Detonation damage is evident upon removal of the cyl. heads.

Our engines are custom built to your specifications (e.g., engine color, and upgrades).

You can enjoy your engine with occasional spirited driving, as it is well designed for it, but we will not cover damage caused by racing or improper tuning. A rev limiter and fuel to air ratio monitoring device must be used on this engine. The rev limiter should be set to cut off at its peak horsepower or less if you choose, and this should allow many years of service without a problem.
Your carb should be tuned to allow the correct fuel to air ratio. This ratio can vary depending on many factors such as altitude, vehicle weight, gearing, type of driving, etc. These values should be in the recommended safe zone.

Pre-Installation/Pre-Run Recommendations.

It is highly recommended that you re-torque the intake manifold. The gasket sealant tends to shrink after a period of time and this may cause the intake bolts to lose their proper torque values. The torque range is approx. 25-30 lbs.

The spark plug gaps should all be re-checked. For those running an HEI distributor, the plug gap should be approx. .040-.045 Those running an MSD 6AL unit should gap the plugs to approx. .035-.040 These values are very controversial and you may experiment as to what runs best in your engine. Widening the gap too much can put a strain on the ignition components. Be sure your plug wires are completely fastened onto the spark plugs.

Check your flexplate or flywheel bolts.

Check fuel bowl levels in the sight glass on the carb once you have the engine running. Be sure your fuel pressure is set in the correct range. Adjust the choke on the carb. We would prefer you set the choke to a loose setting. Setting it tightly may allow it do its job better, but can cause engine damage over a period of time due to excess fuel entering the engine upon warm up. Be sure to use a high quality fuel filter.

You may not find a problem with any of the items mentioned above, but considering the small amount of time it takes to check them, we find it to be a valuable preventive measure.
As it’s been said, “an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.”
Continue reading for more detailed information on timing and carburetion. You must follow the recommendations listed below.
Tuning, maintenance, and oil recommendations.

This engine must be maintained with oil specifically designed for high performance engines. The life of the engine can be greatly extended if you run a race grade engine oil such as our Schaeffer brand racing oil. We strongly recommend the Schaeffer Micron Moly 20w-50 grade in warm to hot weather or you may run the 10w-30 weight Schaeffer Supreme 7000 series semi synthetic oil in cooler weather. The part number for this oil is 709-06 for the six qt. case or 709-12 for the full case. After the engine is fully broken in, you may move over the Schaeffer full synthetic oil. The Schaeffer brand oil is very highly rated. It is the only brand of oil we use when dyno tuning. Racing oil must be changed more often than conventional oil. Every 2000 miles or less would be optimal. We offer a full line of this oil in our other listings.
Here is a brief outline of the average additive levels in the Schaeffer Oils as compared to Valvoline VR1. We only use Schaeffer oil in our dyno room, and strongly recommend its use in our engines. The 10W-30 7000 series oil is totally acceptable to use in one of our brand new engines. It will not interfere with the break-in process. The 20W-50 Micron Moly is also an excellent choice to use in warm weather.

Schaeffer 191 Micron Moly Racing Oil
Zinc = 1900 ppm
Phosphorus = 1800 ppm
Soluble Moly = 350 ppm

Schaeffer 709 Racing Oil 10W30
Zinc = 2100 ppm
Phosphorus = 1800 ppm
Moly = 350 ppm

Valvoline VR1
20W50
Zinc = 1400 ppm
Phosphorus 1300 ppm

Valvoline VR1
10W30
Zinc = 1100 ppm
Phosphorus = 1000 ppm

A couple of things worth mentioning: Valvoline VR1 doesn’t report any Moly in their oil. Schaeffer uses a soluble form of Moly that bonds to metal under heat, pressure, and movement. Once fully bonded, it takes over 500,000 psi per square inch. Schaeffer Oil has the best base stocks and additives that make it the best oil on the market.
Oil pressure of 50-60 lbs in the upper rpm range on a fully warmed up engine is nothing to worry about. You may also notice that oil pressure drops at idle to approx 25-30 lbs when the engine is fully warmed up during very hot weather. This is somewhat common and no cause for alarm.
If your engine has a Dart block, then it has priority main oiling. This block routes the oil in a very different pathway compared to a GM block. The mains and rod bearings as well as the crankshaft are well protected with an ample supply of oil even when the oil pressure numbers are lower than you think they should be.
There are many special additives in race grade oils that are not in conventional oil. These additives are very valuable for high performance engines. Never add anything to racing oil. This oil has exactly what is needed to protect a high performance engine. Some of these oils will state that they are low or possibly non-detergent, and that is a desirable trait of racing oil.
The anti-foaming agents in race grade oils are much better than what you would find in conventional motor oil. Race grade oils have higher than normal amounts of the zinc compounds in them, and there are many components in the engine that can make great use of these additives.
This engine does not include a fuel pump. This engine is best suited to operate with an electric fuel pump, with a pressure regulator set at 6-6.5 psi. A chrome block off plate will be installed on the engine. We believe that the electric fuel pump system is a superior fuel delivery system compared to a mechanical system. If you decide to run a high volume mechanical fuel pump on this engine, then you must use the special polymer fuel pump rod that we offer, and you must also use a fuel pressure regulator, and gauge, set to approx. 6.0-6.5 psi. Only use engine oils with high levels of zinc compounds in them when running a mechanical fuel pump. This will protect the eccentric fuel pump lobe on the camshaft. We strongly recommend the Schaeffer Racing oil. See our other listings for this oil.
As for oil filters, we recommend a high quality oil filter. Racing oil filters are excellent. See our other listings for the recommended oil filters.
You must use a rev-limiter on this engine. Should you have a warranty issue, proof will be required. A rev-limiter will allow you the freedom to drive without having to monitor the tach. Every car from the factory has this feature. Set the limiter to the peak hp rating of this engine or less for added protection.
We strongly recommend using a crankcase ventilation system to pull gases from the crankcase. The exhaust evac system we recommend is made by Moroso. The benefits are numerous as compared to the typical pcv system. Oil leaks are greatly reduced by using the exhaust evac system.
Engine break in: As soon as your engine is installed, check and reset the timing if needed.
Drive safely please but keep your engine under load more than normal and bring the rpm up and back down to seat the rings much better and faster. This allows the rings to expand in a perfect circle and with greater pressure against the cylinder walls to establish an even wear pattern. This is why race engines are dynoed: to put a good number of passes on the engine under heavy load, as this will partially seat the rings very quickly, making the engine somewhat ready for racing. Failing to do this not only delays the break-in, but can permanently stop the engine from establishing a good wear pattern on the cylinder walls.
If you have opted for our dyno-tuned version of this engine, then ring seating will be partially established. The dyno has a computer controlled break-in mode that we use before doing any dyno testing for power output. Should you opt for the dyno tuning package, it does not mean that your engine is ready for full synthetic racing oil. Your engine will continue to seat the rings in to an even higher degree after 300-500 miles of driving.
VERY IMPORTANT NOTICE.
This engine does not come with oil in it. The oil that was used during the test run or dyno tuning will be drained as this is required by the shipping companies. We also prefer draining the oil as this gives us a chance to examine it for metal particles. The filter is removed and is also closely examined for metal particles or debris. To prevent oil from dripping onto the shipping pallet, we re-install the oil filter.

You must replace the oil filter that is installed on the engine with a high quality oil filter, but opt for the medium length version, as this will help maintain oil pressure and volume much better than the short version. See our listings for the recommended oil filters.
You must prime your new oil filter. Priming is not needed when changing oil on a well broken-in warm engine that has been running moments before changing the oil. If your new engine has been sitting around for weeks, or possibly months, then you must prime the oil filter.
If your engine is equipped with the 7 qt. Champ oil pan, it has kickouts that swell outward approx. 3 inches on each side. If you think you will encounter clearance issues with the kickouts, we recommend opting for the stock appearing 5 qt. oil pan. The 5 qt. pan will still be a Champ pan and will have the windage tray and crank scraper. We strongly recommend reducing the amount of oil used in these oil pans by approx. 1/4th of a quart. Doing this may reduce the chance of oil leaks and reduce oil temps. The larger counter weights used on stroker crankshafts are why we recommend reducing the oil capacity in these engines. The higher capacity 7 quart oil pan is an optional upgrade on some of our engines.
To be clear on what we’re saying, we would like to see you add right at 6.75 quarts of oil grand total in your engine and oil filter when using the higher capacity oil pan. When using the stock appearing oil pan, we would like to see you add right at 4.75 quarts grand total in your engine and oil filter.
Our engines include a dipstick. It’s very important that you re-calibrate the oil level marking on the dipstick. This is due to the fact that the dipstick, oil pan, and block are all made from various manufacturers and we often see great variances. Couple this with the fact that you may be running a reduced amount of oil, and the “full” mark on the dipstick will most likely not indicate correctly. Once you have put a predetermined amount of oil in your engine, and run it for a few minutes, let it sit for awhile on level ground, check the oil, and mark your dipstick with a flat file to re-establish the full mark.
More tuning recommendations. Very important.
You must be sure that your air to fuel ratio is correct. We strongly recommend purchasing a fuel to air ratio monitor. Proper carb jetting is also a must. If you purchased the dyno package from us then the fuel to air ratio on your carburetor will be tuned within the safe ranges.
If you are using your own carb. on this engine, then you must be sure the fuel to air ratio is correct. If your carb is running too lean, detonation is at your door.
If it is excessively rich, cylinder wash-down from excessive fuel will destroy your bore finish, pistons, and rings quickly, not to mention cause excessive fuel consumption.
A tad on the rich side is not a problem and can help resist detonation; a tad on the lean side will generate the most power and increase fuel mileage.
The optimal air to fuel ratio is approx. 13:1 Set total timing at 30-34 degrees. Total timing refers to the reading at 4500 rpm with the vac. advance disconnected. The closer to the lower number (30 degrees) the total timing is, the safer your engine will be. Do not worry about initial timing, as it will be determined by the total timing.
We do not recommend running the vacuum advance with this engine.
Be sure to have a high amperage battery and high quality starter. The battery must be 850 cca or more. Use heavy gauge battery cables. If you have a hard cranking issue, purchase an in-car timing controller or ignition kill switch. This will allow you to control your timing for optimal performance and ease of starting.

Do not run regular gas in this engine, no matter how much you have reduced the timing. It may not be enough! You may have run an old car in the past that pinged and clattered under load for many miles, and this didn’t seem to hurt it. Most cars from the 60’s and 70’s had very low compression, especially when nearly worn out, and this is why the detonation did not destroy the engine. Excessive pinging, spark knock or valve clatter, as it’s often referred to, may destroy this engine very quickly. Light pinging now and then is unlikely to do any damage, but it certainly will when there is an excessive amount of it under load.
Let any engine with compression numbers above 10:1 clatter and ping for very long, and you will lose the engine due to detonation, and in some cases this can happen very quickly.

Spark Plugs: We recommend the Autolite brand, part number Autolite 3923. Most of our engines include the correct spark plugs. We also offer a premium NGK plug that is highly suitable for this engine when running in very hot climate. Race grade plugs are fine as they have a few features that are desirable for certain types of driving. Keep the temp in the low to middle range. Use a plug that’s too hot, and you are once again close to detonation/pre-ignition; use a plug that’s too cold and they will foul constantly, run poorly when cruising at low speed, and be difficult to start.
Most of our engines come with spark plugs in them, depending on the package you purchase. You may also use NGK part # NGK 4554, a plug that is one step lower in heat range than the Autolite plug. The NGK plug is only to be run during very hot weather.
You would be amazed at how much better an engine will run with the correct spark plugs installed, but brand name has little do with this. It’s more to do with heat range than any other factor. Factors such as outside temp, altitude, compression ratio, and the type of driving you do determine the temp range to run.
A slight loss of power is also an issue with plugs that are too cold, as well as possible difficulty in starting. However, you can have much more serious issues by running plugs with high temp ranges.
Keep the engine coolant temp as low as possible, but it is not a problem if it runs as high as 210 on very hot days, as long as it’s consistent, and not climbing.
Never use any of the modern day type antifreeze formulas that are used in most newer cars. This will most likely destroy the gasket material used in these engines. We have a customer that used the orange colored antifreeze made for Toyota trucks as he happened to have this on hand. This led to a failure of the high quality Felpro intake gaskets. The print seal material was partially dissolved allowing great amounts of coolant into the combustion chamber. This led to a catastrophic engine failure. The correct type of antifreeze to use should be ethylene glycol based, usually green colored. There are some animal safe substitutes on the market that should be ok to use. A mixture of 50/50 or even slightly less antifreeze will cool the engine better than a rich mixture of antifreeze. Keep the engine temp down if possible, but don’t worry if you can’t get it below 210 on a hot summer day. The cooler you keep the engine, the lower the risk of detonation. Set engine idle at approx. 900-950, and never too far below this.
Never let the engine idle for excessively long periods during the break-in period.
When setting your carb choke, we recommend setting it on the mild/lean side. It is best for the choke to open up to its full straight up position as quickly as possible. Keep backing it off until cold starting becomes difficult. Quickfuel brand carbs are best to run. They are also suitable for use on engines running a mechanical or electric fuel pump.
If the choke is set up on the aggressive side, it will create an over-rich condition upon every cold start-up and warm-up. This over-rich condition is very damaging to an engine, and will waste fuel.
If you feel you can get by without using the choke, then by all means do without it! The modern day carbs actually do well with very little or no choke. With a few pumps of the throttle and a bit of feathering, the throttle will have you off and going smoothly, in most cases with very little or no choking at all.
Hydraulic roller setups are virtually maintenance-free and require little if any maintenance.

Our recommendations will change from time to time. We never stop trying to build a better engine, and we learn from our own experiences and from feedback from our customers. We know there’s always room for improvement. We’re always working on research and development, as does any successful business. We advise checking out the recommendation section of our engine ads on a regular basis.

Why have we given such detailed information on our warranty and maintenance suggestions? Some customers bought our engines and did not fully understand our warranty and the maintenance needs of the engines.

Not knowing is understandable, but failing to educate yourself on the do’s and don’ts is asking for problems. We suggest joining a few good car forums, as they have a wealth of great information.

However, beware of some individuals on forums who think they know it all, and really know very little. Do your research using several sources, and be sure to read between the lines.

Special note.
For engines equipped with special order solid roller cams, the warranty on the valve train components is for 30 days. You may never have a problem with any of the components, but excessive street driving at cruising speed can adversely affect these components.
Solid roller setups should not be driven for excessively long distances or for long periods of time on the street. A weekend of racing at the drag strip would likely have less of an effect on the valve train components than a 100 mile easy drive.

If you do think you will be driving significant numbers of miles, we strongly recommend staying with our hydraulic roller cam package. The warranty on the hydraulic roller cam and valve train components is the same as the rest of the engine. See our other listings for info on all of our engines.
Skip White
Your engine info will include the balance sheet and other information on this engine such as cam card, and your invoice will show your personal selection of the options offered.
Many have asked why we’re able to sell such an engine for such a great price. It’s because we’re a major distribution center for all of the parts used in this engine, as well as a full scale machine shop. Our purchase price for the parts used in this and all of our engines are at master warehouse distributor (WD) pricing. Few machine shops ever get to master-wd pricing. We also believe in keeping our profit levels low enough to allow the working man a chance to build his car the way it should be built.
A final note.

Our user id is: skipwhite, and our store name is whiteperformance1. You may have noticed other sellers using a similar name offering similar products. These other sellers have capitalized on our name as we see it, and many customers searching for us will inadvertently find them, thinking we are one in the same company. There is only one “Skip White.” We are the original premier seller under this name since approximately 2003. We have no other names, nor are we associated with any other company regardless of the similarity in the name or location. Our official company name is Skip White Performance. Please see the article below for a more detailed explanation.
The real story…Skip White Performance vs. White Performance & Machine
I’m sure many of you have noticed there are 2 high performance engine builders in Kingsport, TN with similar names, and this has led to a great amount of confusion.

We are Skip White Performance, NOT White Performance and Machine.

Due to the name similarity many customers looking for us online inadvertently find them, thinking we are the same company. Definitely not…there is no connection between the two companies. We don’t have a problem with free enterprise (competition). However, when the competition builds their foundation on such things as a name similarity and their supposedly long history of being in business, then we think it’s about time we set the record straight.

We have owned White Performance since 2003, with the exception of the machine shop, which was owned by Fred White at the time. He continued to operate the machine shop and build engines for us while we continued selling online under the user ID of skipwhite and the store name of whiteperformance1.

Due to their limited production capability and many disagreements about the engine building process and workmanship, we opted to open a full scale machine shop of our own a few years later. Fred White began competing against us even though our contract had a non-compete clause in it.

As our business grew, we opened a second, much larger warehouse and machine shop around 2011, located on Brookside Ln. in Kingsport TN. By putting heart and soul in this company, we have become the number one street rod engine builder in the nation.

Fred sold his shop to an investor in 2016 and the new owners continue to reap the benefits from this confusion between the two shops. This investor lacks any knowledge of this industry. They continue to use the White Performance & Machine name. Contrary to what is posted on their website, Fred White is no longer associated with the company in any way. Their main spiel in advertising is, “In business since 1979,” when in fact, we purchased the White Performance company in 2003, with the exception of the machine shop.

All in all, we have been in this business 16+ years. Skip White’s passion has been owning and building street rods for 47 years on a personal level. The knowledge he has gained over time has allowed him to venture into this business and succeed to a very high level.

The great pretenders continue capitalizing on our success due to the name similarity, but have been degrading our reputation. Recently, we have been getting calls nearly on a daily basis from people that now realize there are two shops in this town with very similar names. They complain of serious problems in getting their engines in a timely manner from them. They think they purchased their engine from us. Due to the confusion, there is an increasing amount of negative talk that is starting to reflect on our reputation within the street rod community, when in fact we have a near perfect reputation in this industry. We have an “A+” rating with the Better Business Bureau and we have maintained the A+ rating for many years.

FAST FORWARD TO 2019…We have become the largest street rod engine builder in the nation. Our engines, rotating assemblies, and cylinder heads are built to very high standards and shipped to our customers in a timely manner. We are a premier seller on with a positive feedback score of well over 206,000 and growing, as compared to our competitor’s score of approximately 24,000.

Our engines are custom-built to our customers’ specifications and are shipped in approx. 2-4 weeks, perhaps sooner, depending on the season. Our rotating assemblies usually ship out in about one week or less, and our heads ship in about a week or less.

Now you know the real story, and we hope this helps with the confusion.

skip white, performance parts, racing engines, engine parts, high performance, cylinder heads, pistons, racing parts, turn-key
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SBC CHEVY 383 STROKER PRO STREET MOTOR 540 hp BASE ENGINE-PRO STREET | Skip White Performance – We have the best prices you will ever find for aluminum heads, rotating assemblies and strokers

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Summary of article content: Articles about How much does a Chevy 383 stroker cost? How much HP does a 383 stroker have? The 383 stroker engines have been reported to achieve 330 horsepower with 410 foot-pounds of Torque, 395 horsepower … …
Most searched keywords: Whether you are looking for How much does a Chevy 383 stroker cost? How much HP does a 383 stroker have? The 383 stroker engines have been reported to achieve 330 horsepower with 410 foot-pounds of Torque, 395 horsepower … The HP94 Chevy 383ci stroker from ATK is being offered by Jegs at the low price of $3,993.99, but is found throughout a range of big-box stores, so it might
Table of Contents:

How much HP does a 383 stroker have

How hard is it to build a 383 stroker

Can you turn a 350 into a 383 stroker

How fast does a 383 stroker go

How much does a 383 stroker cost

Is a 383 a good motor

What are the benefits of a stroker motor

What is the difference between a 350 and 383

What liter is 383 stroker

What is a Chevy 350 bored 30 over

Who built the first 383 stroker

What is a 383 stroker kit

What size block is a 383 stroker

How much HP does a 454 big block have

What block is used for a 383 stroker

How much does a 383 stroker motor weigh

How many liters is 454

What is better a 350 or a 383 stroker

What does stroker engine mean

What are the disadvantages of a stroker engine

Do stroker motors rev higher

Can you boost a stroker engine

How much horsepower does a 383 big block have

Whats so good about a 383 stroker

How much does a Chevy 383 stroker cost?

See more articles in the same category here: Chewathai27.com/toplist.

We Build a Small-Block That Makes 500HP and 500 LB-FT

Chevy 383s destroy 350s in overall power. Readers have figured that out, since 383 stroker combos are the ones we get asked about most often, and most of the shops we talk to peddle more 383s than not. These days, if you need to buy a crank when rebuilding your small-block, there’s no reason not to add the extra cubes; a 383 is just as cheap as a 350.

So you’re sold. But people still have questions about 383 combos, so after we threw one together for a video project and then noticed that it made pretty good grunt-eclipsing both 500 lb-ft of torque and 500 hp-we decided to give you the parts list so you can build one of your own. This one’s based on a ZZ4 short-block we blew up on the dyno a few years back, so it uses the late-style one-piece rear-main seal that takes a special crank and matching oil pan. Other than those model-year-specific bits, the combo could be duplicated with any 350 or large-journal 327 block. Not counting the core short-block, we used about $6,400 in parts, and that’s complete from carb to oil pan and from water pump to flexplate including Performance Distributors ignition and even paint and oil. Our only extravagances were ARP accessory bolts, a tuner-built 850 Holley carb, a hydraulic-roller cam, and aftermarket cylinder heads, but the latter two are the key to making the big power you just can’t get with flat-tappet cams and stock heads.

What makes our 383 pretty basic is the use of a stock block with a budget crankshaft (we used a forging, but a cheaper casting would be fine at this power and rpm) and with stock 5.7-inch rods upgraded with ARP bolts. Also, Chevy 383s with 5.7 rods are often cheaper to balance externally, so that’s how we did it, using TCI’s SFI-approved Rattler balancer and counterweighted flexplate. (Shorter rods require smaller crank counterweights to clear the pistons at TDC, so Mallory metal may need to be added to balance a 5.7-rod 383 internally). The pistons are lightweight Speed-Pro forgings with 12cc dishes for just under 10.0:1 compression with the pistons at 0.010 inch in the hole and with the 64cc chambers in the World Products Motown 220 heads. We used budget iron heads, though we think the compression ratio may have detonation problems on the street without aluminum heads, so we recommend Motown Lites if you want to duplicate this engine.

The Comp hydraulic roller is an XR294HR stick with 242/248 degrees of duration at 0.050, 0.540/0.562-inch lift with 1.52:1 roller rockers, and 110 degrees of lobe sep. This cam cleared the stock rods (cam-to-rod clearance always needs to be checked on 383s), and also has plenty of valve-to-piston clearance with the Speed-Pro pistons. It’s also got the chop you want, idling at 950 rpm with about 9 inches of vacuum. We could drive it every day, but we live hard. We wouldn’t go much bigger with a hydraulic roller (because we’d go to a solid at that point), and if you want perfect driveability, we’d pick the Comp XR276HR (224/230 at 0.050, 0.502/0.510 lift on a 110 LDA), but then we’d certainly use heads with 72cc chambers rather than our 64s to drop the compression to 9.2:1 to avoid detonation. That combo would probably make around 465 hp and nearly 500 lb-ft, but at less rpm.

But never mind that. The point here is 502 lb-ft at 4,700 rpm and 500-plus horsepower from 5,700-6,200 rpm. Someday we hope to stab this 383 in the Crusher Camaro, which has been relieved of its 632. Meanwhile, here’s all the parts we needed to get the power done.

Parts And Prices Description PN Source Price Long-Block 3.75-stroke forged crank SME-3-51-05L057 Summit Racing $589.95 TCI Rattler balancer 870003 Summit Racing $359.95 ARP crank bolt 134-2501 Summit Racing $18.88 ARP main bolts 134-5202 Summit Racing $25.88 TCI ext.-balance flexplate 399773 Summit Racing $84.88 ARP flexplate bolts 100-2901 Summit Racing $7.88 Fel-Pro rear main 2919 Dougan’ $18.88 Speed Pro pistons LW2605F-030 Dougan’ $477.04 Speed Pro file-fit rings R9771 35 Dougan’ $122.00 Speed Pro main bearings 139M Dougan’ $59.13 Speed Pro rod bearings 8-7100CH Dougan’ $63.09 Speed Pro cam bearings 2100M Dougan’ $33.71 Speed Pro freeze plugs 3818059 Dougan’ $7.08 Motown 220 heads (2) 014150-2 Summit Racing $999.00 ARP head bolts 134-3601 Summit Racing $49.88 Fel-Pro head gaskets (2) 1003 Dougan’ $74.56 VHT paint Chevy Orange Summit Racing $6.39 Show All

Oiling Milodon pan 30909 Summit Racing $256.88 Milodon rear pan baffle 32500 Summit Racing $5.25 Milodon pickup 18314 Summit Racing $34.88 Milodon oil pump 18750 Summit Racing $56.99 Milodon oil driveshaft 23050 Summit Racing $13.95 ARP oil-pump stud 230-7001 Summit Racing $4.88 Milodon oil pan gasket 41001 Summit Racing $27.95 Milodon dipstick 22005 Summit Racing $52.95 Dougan’ oil-filter adapter NA Dougan’ $36.00 HP-1011 Summit Racing $9.95 Lucas 20W50 oil (6) 20500-1 Summit Racing $29.70 Show All

Induction Hardcore 850 carb Plus Series 850 Hardcore Parts $499.95 Performer RPM Air Gap 2601 Summit Racing $199.95 Fel-Pro intake gaskets 1205 Dougan’ $15.24

Ignition Tri-Power distributor 14720 Perf. Distributors $295.00 Milodon hold-down 65710 Summit Racing $12.39 Live wires C9052P Perf. Distributors $99.00

Valvetrain Comp Cam kit K08-443-8 Summit Racing $676.69 Pro Magnum rockers 1301-16 Summit Racing $265.69 ARP cam-bolt kit 134-1001 Summit Racing $3.95 Comp valve covers 220 Summit Racing $125.95 Hardware 221 Summit Racing $24.69 Fel-Pro v/c gaskets 1604 Dougan’ $31.87 Fel-Pro timing set TCS-45121 Dougan’ $8.96 Show All

Exhaust Summit headers G9001-9 Summit Racing $199.50

Accessories ARP stainless bolt kit 534-9501 Summit Racing $77.95 Milodon water pump 16210 Summit Racing $74.88 Milodon thermostat 16401 Summit Racing $10.95 Milodon water neck 65720 Summit Racing $18.99 TCI Starter 351100 Summit Racing $189.95 Total $6,359.11 Show All

Stroker Kit Frequently Asked Questions from 440 Source

Frequently Asked Questions about our stroker kits:

Here are the answers to the most frequently asked questions we get about our stroker kits. You can click on the questions below to jump down to a specific question, or scroll down the page to read everything. If you have a question that is not answered here or on the stroker kits page, please let us know.

1) How much Horsepower will my stroker motor make?

2 ) Are the kits in stock and ready to ship?

3) What kind of bearings should I run?

4) Do the kits come balanced?

5) What other modifications or machine work is necessary to run these kits on an “RB” (413/426/440) engine?

6) What other modifications or machine work is necessary to run these kits on a “B” (383/400) engine?

7) What will my compression be?

8) I have looked around at the competition’s kits, and yours are considerably less money. Does this mean they’re lower quality? What’s the catch?

9) Great, what should I do BEFORE I order my Stroker Kit?

1) How much Horsepower will my stroker motor make?

This is probably our most commonly asked question, and an accurate and correct answer depends on many different factors. As far as the horsepower level or the strength that our parts are capable of withstanding, we generally rate them very conservatively at about 1000 horsepower. Many customers and some magazine builds have made over 1400 horsepower on the dyno, and are still running many years later without failure. However, that does not automatically mean that putting together a stroker motor will instantly guarantee you 1000+ horsepower. While the old saying “There’s no replacement for displacement” is as true today as when it was first said, many other factors besides cubic inches contribute to the horsepower output of an engine. An engine is basically an air pump. The more air you can pump through it, the more horsepower it’s going to make. In order to take full advantage of all those new cubic inches you are adding, you have to be able to “fill” them (meaning the cylinders) up with air. The air that goes through your engine has to go through many different parts along the way. It must go in the carb, through the intake, head ports, valves, exhaust, etc, etc. Along the way, any of these parts can either help the flow or restrict it. It is a bit like a chain. A chain will only be as strong as its weakest link. Likewise, the path of airflow through your engine will only flow as much as the most restrictive part in the chain will allow it to flow. Usually, the most restrictive part (the “weakest link”) in a big block Mopar engine is the cylinder heads.

So, as a given rule, the more cubic inches an engine is, the more power it will make. However, the horsepower output will largely depend on the overall combination you are using. We could take a 500″ short block and with stock heads and a mild cam, it might make around 450-475 horsepower. We could then take that same shortblock, put in an .800″ lift roller cam and fully ported B1 heads, and it might now make 900-1000 horsepower. With a more common and streetable setup such as using our aluminum STEALTH heads without any additional porting , along with a cam in the .540-.560″ lift range, most people will end up making in the 540-580 horsepower range. With our CNC ported STEALTH heads, horsepower numbers in the high 600 to low 700 range are not uncommon. With the more serious race heads such as Indy, B1, etc, many people are making 700-800 horsepower or above. Add a supercharger or turbocharger(s) to that, and the sky’s the limit (but you better make sure your block can handle it!)

2) Are the kits in stock and ready to ship?

Yes, the kits are normally kept in stock and ready to ship. At any given time, we stock over 300 stroker kits. No other shop comes close to the selection of crank strokes, rod styles and lengths, piston types and bore sizes we have available on our shelves and ready to ship immediately. Payment with Visa or Mastercard will usually get a kit out to you within a day or so. For balancing, you can usually figure on a few days to a week, depending on how many kits happen to be in line at any given time. We also stock pistons in dished, domed, and flat top configurations, and in .030″, .040″ and .055″ and sometimes .060″ over, along with rings to match most every bore size and configuration. Want to add some of the other goodies on our web site such as a timing chain, lightweight starter, SFI flexplate or damper, or high volume oil pump and deep sump pan? Chances are we have all that stuff on the shelf and ready to ship out also. Because we specialize in ONLY big block Mopars, we normally keep EVERYTHING on our web site in stock and ready to ship. It is not uncommon for customers to place an order for nearly their entire engine project of 70+ parts, and have the whole order ship out 100% complete the same day. No other parts house (not even Summit and Jegs) can compete with us on this.

3) What kind of bearings should I run?

Clevite makes 4 different types or “series” of bearings. They are the P, H, V, and M series. The M series are a very short life bearing used only for specialized applications, so for almost all applications the M series will not be the best choice. For almost all performance applications, we supply either the H or the V series, depending on what Clevite offers for the specific application. You can read more about the different series of bearings, specifics of manufacturing, etc on our Bearings page.

One other very important fact to consider when choosing bearings is that for extra strength, our cranks have a larger than stock .125″ radius on the edges of the journals. The P series are designed mostly as a stock replacement bearing to work primarily with stock cranks so they do not have any clearance cut into them for this larger radius. The H and V series are performance bearings are intended to be used with new aftermarket type racing/performance crankshafts, so they are already clearanced for the larger radius. When using the P series bearings with our crankshafts, they may have to be champhered to avoid hitting the radius, whereas the H and V series will generally not have this problem. This is why we offer the H and V series bearings as standard in our kits. The only exception is for the low deck (“B” series engine) main bearings, where the only series offered by Clevite is the “P” series. In this case, we champher them ourselves on CNC lathes and offer this as an optional upgrade. Remember, bearings are not like rocker arms, intakes or even heads where it is relatively easy to change them later on. The engine gets balanced with the bearings, and once they are in, it requires tearing the engine completely down to change them, so it pays to spend a little extra in this category and buy the best you can afford. That being said, selection of parts when building an engine is based heavily on opinion, and e very engine builder and/or machine shop has their own preference for what they like to use, so be sure to collaborate with them before ordering. Opened bearings are non-returnable.

4) Do the kits come balanced?

Yes! We may have the world’s only balance machine that has never been used to balance any engine except the Big Block Mopar! Balancing nothing but Big Block Mopar stroker cranks all day long, everyday allows us to develop a level of familiarity and skill with this setup that no other shop can even come close to offering. The end result is a super clean, super accurate balance job done on cutting edge machinery by techs who know the process like the back of their hand in a clean & efficient work area at a VERY fair cost. No other warehouse store, (or especially a local machine shop) can compare. See our BALANCING page for details. When understanding the concept of balancing an engine, it is helpful to think of the crankshaft as being “split” lengthwise into two halfs. One “half” would be the counterweight side of the crank, and the other half would be the side with the rods and pistons. When you balance an engine (or crankshaft) essentially what you are doing is making the counterweight side of the crank equal the rod and piston side. If the counterweight side of the crank starts out too heavy, all you have to do is remove metal from the counterweights and lighten up the crank, or bring it “down” to where it needs to be to equal the rod/piston side. This is a standard, inexpensive balance job that most any machine shop (including us) can do. A problem can come up when the counterweight side of the crank is too light, and requires adding metal to it, in order to get it UP to the weight of the rod/piston side. You may have heard of this as adding “heavy” metal or “mallory” metal to the crank. This is a very expensive procedure in terms of both labor and materials. Because the rods and pistons in our stroker kits are so light (our rods alone are about 100 grams per rod lighter than the competition — multiplied by 8, that’s 800 grams, or more than the weight of an entire piston AND pin!!) most of our kits will have bobweights in the 2050-2300 range, far below the bobweight the cranks come pre balanced at, meaning there should never have to be any material or metal added under any circumstances, just removed.

5) What other modifications or machine work is necessary to run these kits on an “RB” (413/426/440) engine?

For an RB engine, some very minor clearancing of the very bottom of the cylinder walls will usually be required. Sometimes you may also need to clearance the inside of the boss where the oil pickup tube screws in. Some blocks have more “meat” in them than others, so exactly how much you will need to clearance will depend on the specific block you are using. The larger the stroke, the “farther” away from the center the rods are going to be positioned, so the stroker kits with larger strokes will generally require slightly more clearancing. Most people who have enough technical skills to assemble an engine can do this clearancing in their garage with a die grinder in less than a couple hours. No actual extra “machine work” is required. Most of our smaller kits (512CI and below) usually will work with stock oil pickups, and stock oil pans . Also, don’t forget you can’t run the stock windage tray, a special stroker windage tray is required. We’ve got ’em listed on our site for a real nice price (of course..)

6) What other modifications or machine work is necessary to run these kits on a “B” (383/400) engine?

All of the above on the “RB” engines also applies to the “B” engine. This means some very minor clearancing of the very bottom of the cylinder walls and/or inside of the boss where the oil pickup tube screws in will sometimes be required. Some blocks have more “meat” in them than others, so exactly how much you will need to clearance will depend on the specific block you are using. The larger the stroke, the “farther” away from the center the rods are going to be positioned, so the stroker kits with larger strokes will generally require slightly more clearancing. Most people who have enough technical skills to assemble an engine can do this clearancing in their garage with a die grinder in less than a couple hours. No actual extra “machine work” is required. Most of our smaller kits (512CI and below) usually will work with stock oil pickups, and stock oil pans . Also, don’t forget you can’t run the stock windage tray, a special stroker windage tray is required. We’ve got ’em listed on our site for a real nice price (of course..) Our “B” engine cranks also come with the smaller factory sized counterweights, so you will never have to turn down the weights, which can be a problem with some of our competitors kits. One other issue you should be aware of is that Clevite (or any other bearing manufacturer that we know of) does not currently make a narrowed or champhered main bearing for the “B” engine, so in some cases it may be necessary to slightly narrow the main bearings if you find they are coming in contact with the radius of the crank. We offer pre-champhered main bearings (which we do ourselves on CNC lathes) as an optional upgrade on our “B” engine stroker kits. The champhering can also be easily done yourself with a tool called a “bearing knife.” We carry these as part number 200-1122, available on the “Tools and Supplies” page of our web store.

7) What will my compression be?

Compression depends on many factors. A big determining factor for compression is cylinder head CC size. We list a very detailed tables on our stroker kits page for each kit, and there is additional info on our pistons page that will tell you what your compression will be with all the popular big block Chrysler head CC sizes. While each kit will differ slightly, in our popular 440>>500 kit, (for example,) we offer 3 different types of pistons; domed, flat top and dished. These three different pistons are engineered to have a 2 point “spread” of compression ratio between them. In other words, with a given head CC size (take a stock head at 88CC,) you would have 8.6 with the dish, 10.6 with the flat top, and 12.6 with the dome. So, choose the type of piston that will get you closest to where you want to be. From there, there are many different ways to “tweak” the compression up or down slightly. If you need less compression, you can run a thicker head gasket (the ratios are figured with a .039″ gasket, but Fel-pro also makes a .051″ – this should drop your compression by about .4 or .5 tenths of a point), and there are many other aftermarket gasket companies such as Cometic, SCE, etc which offer gaskets in many thicknesses between .020″ and .120″. These many thicknesses will allow you to tweak the compression to exactly where you want it. Alternatively, you can also run the pistons farther down in the cylinder (aka don’t deck the block,) or polish the combustion chambers to increase the CC’s slightly (this also helps to reduce detonation.) If you need more compression, you can surface the heads, run a thinner head gasket, or surface the deck of the block slightly more to run the pistons at zero deck instead of slightly below deck which is where most pistons will come in at. This alone will usually give you a few tenths of a point. So, there are many ways to play with compression. As a general guideline, it is usually easier to bring the compression up than it is to lower it, since once heads or blocks have been surfaced, there is no way to put the metal back. If there is no way to get the exact compression you need with an off the shelf piston, as a last resort, you can always order a custom piston and specify the compression exactly where you want it, along with bore size, ring pack size & location, and anything else you can think of.

8) I have looked around at the competition’s kits, and yours are considerably less money. Does this mean they’re lower quality? What’s the catch?

There is no “catch.” Our products are actually BETTER quality than the competition, AND at a much lower cost. Shop around and you will see nothing even comes close. When shopping around, compare the actual engineering specs of our products to the competitions, rather than just the cost. Remember, the parts themselves only “know” how well they are made, not how much they cost. Cost is only an artificial value someone has decided to assign to the part, based on many factors beyond just the quality of the product itself. If the company has a huge warehouse and/or retail store that stocks hundreds or thousands of different part numbers, prints a full color catalog, and does widespread and/or full color advertising, all those things cost money. That money spent must be made up for in profit, or the amount that the parts are marked up in price. Often, the final cost has more to do with the above listed factors than the quality of the parts themselves. We are a relatively small, very specialized company that focuses all our efforts on the big block Chrysler engine. We sell relatively few part numbers, and we are able to manufacture those parts in very high volume, allowing the factory production line to setup their machinery for mass production of large numbers of one specific part, bringing the cost per part down considerably. When we combine this volume discount with our philosophy of keeping our expenses low, (we do minimal advertising, use our web page in place of a color catalog, and are a mail order only company, meaning we do not have a public storefront,) and then pass all these cost savings on to the customer, we end up with much higher quality parts at a fraction of the competition’s cost.

When calling around, be sure to compare specific specifications. Take our Platinum Series connecting rods for instance. We use only genuine American Made ARP bolts. Find out what type of rod bolts the competitions rods use. Several of our competitors (including most of the rods sold on EBAY) use a no name overseas bolt not even made by ARP at all. Are rod bolts a place where you want to skimp on your motor? We hope not. If you need to save some money, buy cheaper valve covers, but don’t compromise critical fasteners. Once you’ve compared bolt strength, move on to weight.

Our Platinum Series 440 rods weigh about 740-750 grams. That’s over 100 grams per rod lighter than the competition, or 800 grams when you multiply that weight savings by 8, more than the weight of an entire piston AND pin. That’s some serious horsepower gain, not to mention all that weight saved puts considerably less load and abuse on the bearings, block, crank, etc. Why is our stuff so much lighter? Simple. When the larger companies (selling hundreds or thousands of different part numbers) design a raw forging, in order to save money, they will design that forging to work for multiple part numbers. For example they may design an H beam rod forging to work for every rod they offer from 6.700″ – 6.900″ By doing this, they can do a much bigger production run of the forgings (saving money) but the end result is a heavier piece, since more metal is required to accommodate all the different parts the forging will be made into. Since we only make and sell parts for Big Block Chrysler engines, when we design a forging, it is engineered EXACTLY for the specific part it will be made into, and there is no additional unnecessary metal added into the part. Our 6.760″ H beam forgings were designed specifically for our 6.760″ H beam rods, and that is all they will ever be used for. This is a more expensive way of doing things, but we feel the extra quality and weight savings gained by using this method justifies the additional cost.

But, even comparing strength AND weight doesn’t tell the whole story!

There are also some other areas which might not be so obvious. Because we specialize in a small number of parts for ONLY the big block Chrysler engine, we can pay attention to many small details that the large companies we compete with who offer hundreds or thousands of part numbers will overlook. Take the big end width of a connecting rod. The competition provides their big block Chrysler rods with a big end width of anywhere between 1.003″ and 1.009″. On a standard journal width of 2.050″, this will produce a side clearance of up to .045″, nearly double the recommended clearance. Our rods are made with a big end thickness of 1.014″, for a perfect side clearance of about .022.” Keeping the proper side clearance avoids throwing excessive oil around the inside of the motor, which is much easier on the piston rings, and gives considerable horsepower gains due to less windage. Small details like this make the difference. We have given this example based on connecting rods, but the situation is very similar with other parts as well, such as our cranks, pistons, etc.

We always encourage people to shop around, because they almost always call us back in the end. Don’t be scared or misled by the competitions sales talk. No additional machine work (such as turning the journals on our cranks, etc) is required. In terms of VALUE, (the quality you get vs. what you pay for it,) there is nothing like our stuff! When you combine details such as the above with the fact that everything we sell is GUARANTEED to be within spec (see our guarantee for details,) you will agree that NOTHING EVEN COMES CLOSE!!!

Still not sure? Many of our customers tell us that when they shop around and ask our competition about our parts, our competition will tell them what we sell is junk and that “you get what you pay for.” We say, check out our Customers Rides page, which is chock full of our customers running 10’s, 9’s, 8’s and even as fast as MID 6 second quarter miles with the same parts we supply in every stroker kit! Like we said above, don’t be scared or misled by the competitions sales talk, instead ask them how you can argue with these types of quarter mile times, and these types of RESULTS!

9) Great, what should I do BEFORE I order my Stroker Kit?

The most critical piece of information you need to know before ordering a stroker kit is the bore size that your block will require in order to complete the finish honing of the cylinders. Because the components of a stroker kit are all precision balanced together, once a kit is ordered, specific parts in the kit cannot be returned or exchanged. Here’s what you want to avoid. Let’s say you have a standard bore block that has a scratch in one of the cylinders, and your machinist tells you he thinks it should clean up at .030″ over. So, you order your kit with .030″ over pistons, and it gets balanced and shipped. Then, the next week, you go to your machine shop to pick up your block, and your machinist tells you “Oh, by the way that scratch didn’t quite clean up on that one cylinder, so we went .040″ on the block instead.” This situation can happen with a scratch, or even with normal engine wear. What feels like a “slight” ridge on the cylinder walls may be deeper than expected in one specific area. Now you have a perfectly good fully machined block, and a perfectly good stroker kit that are both completely unusable with each other.

To avoid this issue, do one of two things: Have your machinist fully measure the block, and if he can guarantee you 100% that it will clean up at a specific finished bore size, you can choose to take his word for it. However, if he’s wrong, or if there’s any kind of error during machining, etc, and the block doesn’t finish as expected, it will be necessary to start over with a different block that will be able to finish at the size you need. This can add considerable cost.

The second, and more accurate way to do things is this: When a block is bored and honed, it is usually bored to within five thousands of the finished size, and then honed the final five thousandths. If you are going .030″ over (thirty over) with your block, this means it would actually be bored to .025″ (twenty five thousandths) over, and honed the final .005″ (five thousandths) to thirty. This final honing process does two things. It allows you to size each cylinder exactly where you want it to set proper piston to wall clearance, and it also produces the proper cross hatch pattern on the cylinder walls that is required to hold oil, and allow the piston rings to break in properly. Due to normal manufacturing tolerances in pistons (found in ALL brand names of pistons) there can be very slight differences in diameters from one piston to another within the same set. The most accurate way to set piston to wall clearances, is to bore the block before you order the kit. After the boring process is completed, the machinist will be able to inspect the cylinder walls, and visually confirm that any blemishes or wear has been able to be removed by the boring process. If, for instance, the block was bored to .025 in preparation for an .030″ final size, and there was an area with a blemish or wear that was deep enough that it was still visible at that point, then it would be necessary to try the next larger size, and then verify that size was then able to remove the issue. Once the block has a clean bore, you can be 100% confident in that specific size. Then, you can order the stroker kit. Then, once the stroker kit is in hand, your machinist can measure each specific piston to the ten thousandth of an inch, mark each piston as to which cylinder it is going into, then he can hone each cylinder to exactly the diameter it needs to be in order to run the specific clearance he is trying to achieve. Although this method is a bit more involved then just doing all the work (boring and honing) before hand, there is no other way to ensure perfect cylinder wall clearance in every cylinder. And, of course, we are talking about ten thousandths of an inch, so this method requires that the machinist does quality work, uses a torque plate, and keeps the cylinders perfectly round and free of taper. Taper is when the cylinder is hourglass shaped (larger at the top or bottom) instead of perfectly round.

If you have any questions about anything mentioned in this FAQ section, feel free to give us a call and we’ll help to clarify anything that is unclear to you.

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6 Kick-Ass Chevy 383ci Stroker Crate Engines Under $5,000!

The crate engine business has matured over the years, as choices for aftermarket internals have multiplied; we’re well past the point where building a customized small-block Chevy 383ci stroker at home is a viable cost-effective choice. For all but a few magazine-type insiders with no-cost access to a fully stocked machine shop and a dyno, a partially assembled crate engine is by far the least expensive route to big power. In the case of the small-block Chevy, there are so many market players and hardware choices on the menu that the 383ci stroker Chevy has become a commodity, allowing shoppers to shop around and select carefully.

Why is the 383ci Chevy stroker such a big deal when GM never made such an animal? This might be old news to some readers, but the Chevy 383ci stroker is what you get when you rebuild a Chevy 350ci small-block using the longer, 3.75-inch stroke crank from a Chevy 400ci small-block (the 350’s stroke is 3.48 inches)—or at least that’s how the Chevy 383ci stroker began back in the 1970s, when 400ci cores littered the ground. At the end of the day, a 3.48-inch stroke crank and a 3.75-inch stroke crank cost exactly the same, so it’s like getting the extra displacement (and the power!) for free. These days, most of the parts going into Chevy 383ci strokers are all new items, right down to the block, crankshaft, rotating assembly, valvetrain, and induction. Today’s Chevy 383ci stroker crate engine is largely all-new, with most of Chevy’s improvements over the years (like 4-bolt main bearings, one-piece rear main seals, and roller-cam blocks) being incorporated into virtually all examples.

Chevy 383ci Stroker Features to Look For

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A lot has changed since the first Chevy 383 strokers came about. Simply put, there’s no reason not to get a crate engine with a hydraulic roller camshaft, a one-piece rear main seal, or a four-bolt block. Over the years, all these improvements have become standard, mostly because it costs the same to manufacture the newer, updated versions. The only exception might be the type of lifter, as hydraulic roller lifters and camshafts are moderately more expensive than flat-tappet types. Hydraulic roller valvetrains, however, are far more stable, last longer, and require no break-in running time. More importantly, their roller lobe profiles offer more flow under the lift curve, meaning they produce more horsepower than comparable flat-tappet ones.

Chevy 383ci Strokers With Aluminum Heads

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Once upon a time, aluminum cylinder heads were considered exotic. Besides taking a good 30 to 40 pounds off the front of your car—a performance improvement all by itself—aluminum offers additional heat dissipation capability for better knock resistance. This in turn allows a higher static compression ratio, with 10.0:1 being very typical in pump-gas friendly 383ci crate engine packages. Moreover, many cast aluminum small-block Chevy cylinder heads offer improved mass air flow and a higher quality of mixture motion, further improving power output while reducing much of the usual compromise necessitated by high-lift, long-duration camshafts. Today’s Chevy 383ci stroker crate engine is a high-value, high-output powerhouse on par cost-wise with a typical 350ci crate engine, but with a lot more clout under the hood. Let’s look at six of the most promising Chevy 383ci stroker crate engines available right now.

ATK Chevy 383ci/415HP Stroker, Part No. 059-HP94

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Cost: $3,993.99

Where to get it: Jegs

Delivery cost: free shipping

Core charge: $410

Warranty: 90 days

The HP94 Chevy 383ci stroker from ATK is being offered by Jegs at the low price of $3,993.99, but is found throughout a range of big-box stores, so it might pay to shop around some, as is the case with any large-volume crate engine commodity like a Chevy 383ci stroker. This one is rated at 415 hp or 420 hp, depending on who’s quoting it, and includes a seasoned (1996-to-2000 vintage) four-bolt block with a one-piece rear main seal, Scat rotating assembly (cast iron crank, forged rods, hypereutectic 9.7:1 pistons) and ATK’s own line of high-performance Pro-Filer aluminum cylinder heads with 2.02/1.60-inch valves. A hydraulic roller cam (220/224 degrees duration at 0.050-inch lift, 0.528/0.536-inch lift) with double-roller timing chain is included, and valves are actuated by 1.6:1 billet aluminum roller rocker arms. As the ATK 383 is a partial long-block, you’ll still need to provide a good intake manifold (preferably a dual-plane to match the engine’s camshaft), carb, distributor, water pump, and externally-balanced flexplate and balancer.

Takeaways: We would prefer a partial long-block like this one to include forged pistons and a forged crank, but at this power level and price, ATK’s HP94 is a swinging deal. If nitrous or power-adders are in your future, slide down the page to find the forged hardware you’ll need for that.

Five Star Engines Chevy 383ci/435HP Stroker, Part No. 383B

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Cost: $4,595.00

Where to get it: eBay Motors / Five Star Engines

Delivery cost: free shipping

Core charge: no core required

Warranty: 1 year

Unlike big-box stores, smaller engine builders like Five Star Engines, who sell on eBay Motors, fight an uphill battle to be price competitive. Their main advantage, however, is more customized service, and in the case of Five Star Engines, this has earned the company a 100-percent seller rating on eBay. The company’s 435hp Chevy 383ci stroker is almost stat-for-stat the same as the ATK HP94, but the eBay store’s page is light on details; no mention is made of cam specs or even if it’s a hydraulic roller or flat-tappet cam. Likewise, there’s no mention of valvetrain specs, compression ratio, or cylinder head brand (Edelbrock HP E-Force heads appear to be on the engine in the photo), so you’ll want to take advantage of the seller’s invitation to contact him through eBay’s “Contact Seller” tab. This crate engine does include a Professional Products dual-plane intake, an off-shore copy of an Edelbrock Performer RPM AirGap, which is a very good street manifold.

Takeaways: After doing the math, the Five Star Engines Chevy 383ci stroker is just $191.01 over the cost of the ATK Chevy 383ci stroker, about the cost of the included dual-plane intake manifold. Provided you do your due diligence by calling the seller to verify the components, the Five Star Engines’ Chevy 383ci stroker looks like a great candidate. We do wish the seller would provide more detail, though.

BluePrint Engines Chevy 383ci/436HP Stroker, Part No. BP38318CT1

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Cost: $4,699.00

Where to get it: Speedway Motors

Delivery cost: $199

Core charge: no core required

Warranty: 30-month / 50,000 miles

BluePrint Engines is one of the largest crate engine builders, and their scale allows them to do things others can’t, like cast and machine their own blocks and cylinder heads in-house. Rated at 436 hp with a 10.0:1 compression ratio, this unit mirrors the first two with its four-bolt main, one-piece rear seal block, cast-iron crank, forged rods, hypereutectic pistons, proprietary aluminum heads with 2.02/1.60-inch valves, and a hydraulic roller cam (230/236-degree duration at 0.050-inch lift, 0.544/0.555-inch lift). The assembled long-block will still need an intake manifold, water pump, carb, distributor, balancer, and flexplate to get it running, but that set of expenses will be relatively fixed for most of the engines in this comparison. Once again, the BluePrint BP38318CT1 is a commodity, so it pays to shop around, but on this day we found the best price at Speedway Motors.

Takeaways: While not the least expensive Chevy 383ci stroker in the group, BluePrint’s size and well-established reputation is a plus when buying a crate engine for the first time. The in-house BluePrint block also affords a great deal of added strength in the event that you opt to upgrade the internals in the future.

Smeding Performance Chevy 383ci/450HP Stroker

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Cost: $4,950

Where to get it: Smeding Performance

Delivery cost: none stated

Core charge: none stated

Warranty: 3-year / unlimited mileage

The sales model for Smeding Performance’s line of Chevy 383ci strokers is a little different in that you must first decide which of three hydraulic roller camshafts you want before pricing the engine. Here we’ve priced Smeding’s hottest camshaft (an extra $100) which tops out at 450 hp (231/236 degrees duration at 0.050-inch lift, 0.510/0.521-inch lift). Smeding’s formula calls for an upgraded forged crank and rods but opts for the budget-oriented hypereutectic pistons (9.8:1 compression). Smeding uses a new four-bolt, one-piece rear main seal block, and aluminum cylinder heads of their own design (2.02/1.60-inch valves, 180cc intake port) in conjunction with 1.5:1 roller rocker arms. We like the fact that you can simply option-up your Smeding Chevy 383ci stroker with many of the important extras you’ll need, like water pump ($150), chrome air filter ($100), dipstick ($100), flexplate/flywheel ($125), high-torque mini starter ($150), and swivel thermostat kit ($75).

Takeaways: Smeding is a respected builder of quality crate engines with scale and experience. We like the big power number (450 hp) of this Chevy 383ci stroker and the forged crank being standard. However, it does bug us that forged pistons—a must if you plan on nitrous—are not part of the package.

Wolverine Engines Chevy 383ci/450HP Stroker

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Cost:

Where to get it: Wolverine Engines

Delivery cost: $400 (flat rate)

Core charge: none

Warranty: 24-month / 24,000 miles

Wolverine Engines has an entire section of its website devoted to “Budget Engine Combinations,” a sign they have sharpened their pencils to accommodate every budget and every level of experience. With bare 350ci short-blocks starting at $1,295, and going all the way up to a fully dressed 450hp 383ci stroker for $5,695, the budget department doesn’t disappoint. Within the criteria set out here (partial long-block, cam, aluminum heads), Smeding’s primary entry is this Chevy 383ci stroker rated at 450 hp. Wolverine starts with a seasoned two-bolt, one-piece rear main seal block, then adds an Eagle cast steel crank and forged rods with Speed Pro hypereutectic pistons. Though the website doesn’t spell it out, the photo shows a set of Edelbrock E-Street cylinder heads but publishes that Brodix heads are included. A hydraulic roller cam (unknown specs), double-roller timing chain, and Comp Cams roller rocker arms are also included.

Takeaways: Wolverine’s website is light on details (cam specs, cylinder heads, compression ratio), which means you will need to call to verify the bill of materials used.

Eckler’s Classic Chevy 383ci/425HP Stroker, Part No. 340212

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Cost: $4,999.99

Where to get it: Eckler’s Classic Chevy

Delivery cost: varies by location

Core charge: none stated

Warranty: 3 years / unlimited mileage

Here we are at the bottom of the page, and the deal on the Chevy 383ci stroker from Eckler’s Classic Chevy is a hard one to ignore, with its new four-bolt main block and fully forged Scat rotating assembly. This is a beefcake you can count on to go round after round—with nitrous or other power adder if need be (you’ll need to call to spec a wider ring gap for a power adder, a minimal charge). We’re guessing that Eckler’s has an independent engine shop building these, which might explain the dearth of information about camshaft specs, compression, etc, but those answers are only a phone call away. Eckler’s is the only company offering a fully forged partial long-block (short-block plus aluminum cylinder heads) at this level of completeness (balancer, timing cover, oil pan, hydraulic roller cam, dual-plane intake manifold) under our $5,000 maximum.

Takeaways: Considering the 450hp output of the Eckler’s Chevy 383ci stroker, this partial long-block is overbuilt, which should give buyers the confidence to step up the power even higher if the urge strikes. Lots of hardcore strength for the money.

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