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Is aluminum a good metal for swords?
Aluminum practice swords are often preferred over traditional steel swords for beginners. Because of its widespread availability and 100% recyclable properties, aluminum swords are cheaper than steel swords. Aluminum is lightweight, with a lower weight by volume than most other metals.
What is the strongest metal for swords?
- One of the best and strongest metals to use is 1095 high carbon steel.
- 1095 high carbon steel is strong and durable.
- 1095 high carbon steel is highly susceptible to rust.
Can you make a sword from aluminum?
I happen to make a lot of swords blades from 7075 Aluminum. Aluminum blades are a mainstay of the film industry, and are also used in theater and other live performance fighting.
What are the strongest type of swords?
- 1.1 1) Khopesh.
- 1.2 2) Gladius.
- 1.3 3) Falcata.
- 1.4 4) Miao Dao.
- 1.5 5) Ulfberht.
- 1.6 6) Scimitar.
- 1.7 7) Katana.
- 1.8 8) Estoc.
What is the strongest sword ever made?
The Honjo Masamune is so important because it represented the Shogunate during the Edo period of Japan. The sword was passed down from one Shogun to another for generations. In 1939 the weapon was named a national treasure in Japan, but remained in the Kii branch of the Tokugawa family.
Why are there no titanium swords?
Titanium is not a good material for swords or any blades. Steel is far better. Titanium cannot be heat treated sufficiently to gain a good edge and will not retain edge.
Would titanium make a good sword?
The unfortunate fact is that titanium is never going to have the hardness required to form a good sword blade. It’ll dull quickly and have an innate weakness in the infrastructure of the titanium. This blade will also be much softer than steel, even if formed into a thicker blade.
Is Damascus steel stronger than steel?
Durable. As we will see later, when it comes to sharpness and durability, there is no difference between Damascus steel and stainless steel. The different elements that go into making stainless steel combine to make it strong and long-lasting. It can thus be made into a very thin blade with long edge retention.
What metal makes good swords?
The most common type of metal used for sword making is steel. There are a variety of metal mixtures that are all classified as steel. Stainless steel, high carbon steel, tool steel, spring steel and Damascus steel are the varieties commonly used in sword making with stainless steel varieties being the most common.
How much blood would it take to make a sword?
2,250 grams of workable iron, factoring for the ratio of impurities, means we’ll need 9,407.25 grams of raw material — of blood-iron sand — to start. At 4 grams per person, you’d need at least 2,352 completely drained donors to make a iron longsword out of blood.
How hard is it to forge a sword?
Forging a sword is an advanced blacksmithing project and can be a huge undertaking for beginner blacksmiths. Like most forging processes, forging a sword requires patience, experience, and time. With the right tools and safety equipment, you can forge a sword at home.
How strong are bronze swords?
Unfortunately, bronze didn’t yield exceptionally high-quality weapons or armor, including swords. Bronze swords were brittle, often breaking upon impact.
What is the deadliest type of sword?
- The Katana. One of the most famous swords in the world is also one of the deadliest. …
- The Claymore. Along with being the finishing move of WWE wrestler Drew McIntyre, the claymore is a great Scottish blade. …
- The Urumi. …
- The Muramasa. …
- The Scimitar. …
- The Hook. …
- The Gladius. …
- The Estoc.
Is it possible to cut steel with a sword?
Both iron and bronze swords can be cut through with a steel one, there are a number of accounts of this.
How long would a sword last in battle?
“A sword could last X years in peacetime, but during a prolonged conflict it would need to be repaired or replaced every Y months…” @Nerrolken: IMHO the “during prolong conflict” part should also include the intensity of use. “This sword has warranty of 25 years or 1000 blows, whichever comes first.”
What metal makes good swords?
The most common type of metal used for sword making is steel. There are a variety of metal mixtures that are all classified as steel. Stainless steel, high carbon steel, tool steel, spring steel and Damascus steel are the varieties commonly used in sword making with stainless steel varieties being the most common.
What is the best material for making a sword?
1). Bar none, the best metal for sword blades is steel made from bog iron—that which has been found in bogs as apposed to iron which has been mined from the ground—the main reason being bog iron has silicon in it, other irons don’t.
What metals were swords made of?
Early swords were made of copper, which bends easily. Bronze swords were stronger; by varying the amount of tin in the alloy, a smith could make various parts of the sword harder or tougher to suit the demands of combat service. The Roman gladius was an early example of swords forged from blooms of steel.
What metal makes the best knives?
- Tool steels are a very popular choice for making knives. …
- Carbon steel grades with high amounts of carbon are desirable for knife making because they will give the blade the hardness and strength needed to hold up against impact and wear. …
- Stainless steel is another type of knife-making metal.
how strong is an aluminum sword
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How to Care for an Aluminum Sword | MartialArtSwords.com
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What is the Best Metal for a Sword? – Survival Freedom
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The Best Overall Metal for a Sword
What is the Best Material for a Sword
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Aluminum sword build tips? — myArmoury.com
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Best Fighting Swords in History [Updated] – Working the Flame
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How to Care for an Aluminum Sword | MartialArtSwords.com
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Are aluminum/lead weapons any good?
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- Summary of article content: Articles about Aluminum sword build tips? — myArmoury.com In general, aluminum swords made from 7075-T6 can stand up to a lot of heavy use. The key is creating an edge geometry that’s resistant to … …
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Aluminum Alloy Sword – Swordsmithing – I Forge Iron
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ALUMINUM BLADE INFO — Jesse Belsky Stageswords
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How to Care for an Aluminum Sword
Stainless steel and high-carbon steel are the most popular choice of metals used in the construction of swords. Stainless steel is characterized by the addition of chromium, further protecting it against rust and corrosion. High-carbon steel, on the other hand, contains higher concentrations of carbon, giving the blade a superior level of strength and hardness.
But swords are made of other metals as well, including aluminum. To learn more about aluminum swords and care for them, keep reading.
Aluminum Swords: The Basics
Aluminum is often used to make practice swords, including the Japanese iaito. Aluminum itself is a soft, nonmagnetic metal in the boron group. It’s also one of the most common elements on Earth, only behind oxygen and silicone respectively. Aluminum practice swords are often preferred over traditional steel swords for beginners.
Aluminum Sword Pros
Because of its widespread availability and 100% recyclable properties, aluminum swords are cheaper than steel swords.
Aluminum is lightweight, with a lower weight by volume than most other metals.
Aluminum swords have a shiny chrome finish that many collectors and martial arts practitioners prefer.
Aluminum Sword Cons
Aluminum swords are less susceptible to rust and corrosion than steel swords.
Aluminum swords have a shorter lifespan than swords made of other metals.
Due to the nuances in composition, aluminum swords cannot be heat treated in the same manner as traditional Japanese steel swords.
The edge of an aluminum sword doesn’t hold as easily as that of a steel sword.
For these reasons and others, aluminum swords are generally recommended for beginners, either for collecting or practicing martial arts.
Maintaining and Caring for an Aluminum Sword
But if you choose an aluminum sword, you should take the necessary precautions to preserve its integrity and aesthetics. For starters, aluminum is not as hard as steel and it can be easily scratched. You should take a pre-caution that the blade is not rubbed against other hard surfaces.
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What is the Best Metal for a Sword?
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Whether you want to forge your own sword or you are just interested in metals that are used for sword making, it is important to know what the best metals are. If a sword does not use the right metal, it will be flimsy and liable to break, so using a strong metal is ideal.
The best metal for a sword is carbon steel. Carbon steel comes in many variations denoted by the number 10, followed by a two-digit number that represents the carbon content. Carbon steel under 1040 is too weak for a sword. The best overall metal for a sword is carbon steel rated at 1060.
In case you’re wondering, forging steel can be purchased on Amazon.
So, if you are going to forge a sword at home, understanding why a carbon steel blade is the best option is important. Read on to discover all you need to know about the best metal for a sword and more.
The Best Overall Metal for a Sword
While swords may not be a standard issue anymore for soldiers, they are still popular to make and collect. Forging your own sword is a great project to undertake. However, with so many types of metal to choose from, it can be difficult to choose the right one for your sword.
The best overall metal for making your own sword is 1060 high carbon steel. A 1060 high carbon steel blade is right in the middle as far as carbon steel goes. There are several reasons why this is a great option for your sword:
It is not too cheap or too expensive. You do not want to get a metal that is too cheap because it can be brittle, too flexible, and low-quality. Likewise, if you get a metal that is too expensive, you may get a metal that is too difficult to forge.
You do not want to get a metal that is too cheap because it can be brittle, too flexible, and low-quality. Likewise, if you get a metal that is too expensive, you may get a metal that is too difficult to forge. It is durable. A good sword will be durable and strong. It depends on what you need the sword for, but, generally, you want it to have good durability without too much flexibility in the blade.
A good sword will be durable and strong. It depends on what you need the sword for, but, generally, you want it to have good durability without too much flexibility in the blade. It will retain its sharpness well. Some metals lose their sharpness quickly, but a 1060 high carbon steel blade will retain its shape for a long time, which means you do not have to sharpen it as often.
The best high carbon steel blades will range from 1040 up to 1095, so 1060 falls right in the middle of this range. This is why it is the best overall metal to use for a sword. It offers a good, durable metal that will stay sharp.
It is important to note that this type of metal is susceptible to corrosion if not attended to properly. However, as long as you take care of the sword then it should be okay.
What is the Strongest Metal for a Sword?
You want a strong and durable metal for a sword. If you do not use a strong or durable metal for a sword, you will end up with a subpar product.
While 1060 high carbon steel is the best overall metal, it is not the strongest option:
One of the best and strongest metals to use is 1095 high carbon steel.
1095 high carbon steel is strong and durable.
1095 high carbon steel is highly susceptible to rust.
Stainless steel, for example, is a metal that many people may try to forge a sword from. However, this is not recommended.
Stainless steel is a subpar choice for a sword. It is neither strong nor durable when the blade is over 12 inches long. It becomes brittle at these longer lengths, which does not pair well with a sword.
Therefore, it is important to avoid stainless steel when making your sword. Instead, opt for high carbon steel. If you want the strongest, you should try the 1095 high carbon steel.
What is the Best Material for a Sword?
The best material for a sword is steel. However, many types of steel can be made into a sword. Take this video for example, where different types of steel are explained concerning sword making.
So, what types of steel are there for making a sword? Here are a few to consider.
High carbon steel- High carbon steel, as its name suggests, has a high carbon percentage in its composition. It helps it remain durable and strong. High carbon steel is probably the most popular material for making a sword.
High carbon steel, as its name suggests, has a high carbon percentage in its composition. It helps it remain durable and strong. High carbon steel is probably the most popular material for making a sword. Spring steel- Spring steel is a steel alloy that also has a high carbon composition. However, spring steel is flexible and can return to its original shape when bent.
Spring steel is a steel alloy that also has a high carbon composition. However, spring steel is flexible and can return to its original shape when bent. T-10 steel- T-10 steel is silicon-strengthened carbon steel–the equivalent to carbon steel rated at 1095. This means it is even stronger than carbon steel rated at 1095.
Remember, when looking at the material for making a sword, you want it to work for you. If you want a sword that is “usable,” then you will need a metal that is strong, durable, and can retain its razor edge.
However, if the blade you are forging is for display only, or it is to use in theatre production, or it is just for practice—like fencing—then you can opt for a cheaper metal. You do not need to spend more money unless you need a functional sword.
Where to Get Metal for a Homemade Sword
Now that you know the metal you want to get for your homemade sword, it is time to go out and get it.
However, unless you are a blacksmith or have forged other blades in the past, you may not know exactly where to get the metal you need.
You can get metal for a homemade sword online. There are several stores that specialize in metal for sword making and knife making. You may be able to find the metal you need in-store if there is a blacksmith or metal store nearby.
Online, there are blacksmith stores that specialize in selling metal for swords, knives, and other blades. Moreover, if you are in a real squeeze, you can also find metal from independent sellers on Amazon. As long as you know what you are looking for, you should find it easily.
Bottom Line
The best overall metal for a sword is 1060 high carbon steel. However, there are other options you can choose from too, such as 1040 high carbon steel, 1095 high carbon steel, spring steel, and T-10 steel.
It depends on what you need the sword for. Finding the metal is easy when you search online, as long as you know what you are looking for. Once you have the metal you want, you can begin the process of forging your homemade sword.
Thanks for reading!
For more, check out Ways to Hold a Sword | Methods and Poses.
Hey, I’m Jim and the author of this website. I have always been interested in survival, fishing, camping, and anything in nature. In fact, while growing up I spent more time on the water than on land! I am also a best-selling author and have a degree in History, Anthropology, and Music. I hope you find value in the articles on this website. Feel free to contact me if you have any questions or input!
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Aluminum sword build tips?
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T. Diamante
Joined: 09 Aug 2016
Posts: 70
Location: United StatesJoined: 09 Aug 2016 Posted: Tue 09 Aug, 2016 8:02 pm Post subject: Aluminum sword build tips? I was helping my parents clean out their garage about two weeks ago, and came across some supplies my dad had stored. Most of it was scrap metal, but he did have a sizable piece of 7075 aluminum. He’s a locksmith but I don’t really know what he was doing with it. Anyway, I ended up taking it and I decided to turn it into a sword! Although I am fully aware that this will be a primarily decorative piece. I’m aiming for something like an Oakeshott type Xa. I have the rough shape and some beveling done, but the blade has a long way to go. Has anyone else here done something like this? And what was your experience working with aluminum?
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Jesse Belsky
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Location: Durham, NCJoined: 12 Aug 2007 Posted: Wed 10 Aug, 2016 1:27 pm Post subject:
I can’t quite tell what stock thickness you have there, but usually the hardest thing about working with aluminum blades is securing the hilt. If you want the sword to ring when struck, it’s best to put the hilt under compression with some kind of threaded pommel. If you don’t care about sound, you can pin a pommel on any which way. Check out this page on my website for descriptions of a bunch of different methods for securing an aluminum blade, and the pros and cons of each:
The other critical thing to know about working with 7075 T-6 (and this info may come too late as you’ve already begun shaping the blade) is that you can ruin the temper of the material by overheating it. This is only an issue if you plan to fight with it, of course. When grinding or cutting 7075 you want to keep it cool enough to handle with your bare hands. Technically I believe you don’t blow the temper on 7075 until about 700º, but it can be hard to track that, and material can heat up fast especially at the edges and tip. Once the temper is wrecked, you can’t fix it, and the aluminum becomes soft and weak.
Good luck, and let me know if I can offer any other advice! Hello T., that’s a great looking blade you’ve got going. I happen to make a lot of swords blades from 7075 Aluminum. Aluminum blades are a mainstay of the film industry, and are also used in theater and other live performance fighting. You can only use aluminum blades with other aluminum blades, but if you give them substantial edge thickness they can last for years of hard use. As you’ve probably discovered 7075 is very easy to work compared to steel. It cuts, grinds and polishes with a lot less elbow grease.I can’t quite tell what stock thickness you have there, but usually the hardest thing about working with aluminum blades is securing the hilt. If you want the sword to ring when struck, it’s best to put the hilt under compression with some kind of threaded pommel. If you don’t care about sound, you can pin a pommel on any which way. Check out this page on my website for descriptions of a bunch of different methods for securing an aluminum blade, and the pros and cons of each: https://jesse-belsky-stageswords.squarespace.com/aluminum-blade-info The other critical thing to know about working with 7075 T-6 (and this info may come too late as you’ve already begun shaping the blade) is that you can ruin the temper of the material by overheating it. This is only an issue if you plan to fight with it, of course. When grinding or cutting 7075 you want to keep it cool enough to handle with your bare hands. Technically I believe you don’t blow the temper on 7075 until about 700º, but it can be hard to track that, and material can heat up fast especially at the edges and tip. Once the temper is wrecked, you can’t fix it, and the aluminum becomes soft and weak.Good luck, and let me know if I can offer any other advice!
T. Diamante
Joined: 09 Aug 2016
Posts: 70
Location: United StatesJoined: 09 Aug 2016 Posted: Wed 10 Aug, 2016 1:43 pm Post subject: Thanks for the info Jesse! That hilt discussion is really helpful. I had heard mention somewhere about the temper issue, but didn’t realize that it needed to be so cool. I’m not really sure how hot the blade got while I was shaping it; I was wearing gloves the whole time and my hands stayed cool. However, when I touched the blade barehanded immediately after, it was pretty hot. Not hot enough to burn me, just uncomfortably hot. I was grinding the blade on a belt sander, and worked my way all the down the blade with each pass and alternated sides, so I don’t think the blade at any point got too much hotter after that, so I’d like to know your thoughts on the temper(or if there’s a way I can check the temper without damaging the blade. Out of curiosity, how do your stage swords hold up with heavy contact? Are small gouges, burrs and dents normal? Or would that be a sign of a ruined temper on the blade? Again, thanks for the info!
Oh and, it looks like the stock was 1/4″ thick.
Jesse Belsky
Industry Professional
Joined: 12 Aug 2007
Spotlight topics: 1
Posts: 179
Location: Durham, NCJoined: 12 Aug 2007 Posted: Wed 10 Aug, 2016 2:52 pm Post subject: Hmm. You may well have gotten it too hot, but you might get lucky. When I grind aluminum I cool it in water after every few sanding/grinding passes. One way your can perhaps test the temper is to compare it’s hardness with a scrap piece of 7075 (like a chunk you cut off to make the tang or whatever…something that was never sanded). If you round over the corner along one edge, stick it in a vice and whack it with your sword blade, they should theoretically do the same amount of damage to each other (assuming the edge geometry is similar. Two pieces of the same material of equal hardness smack together, you would expect them to deform equally. If the blade takes a lot more damage, it’s probably been softened.
In general, aluminum swords made from 7075-T6 can stand up to a lot of heavy use. The key is creating an edge geometry that’s resistant to nicks. You want to give yourself a nice fat edge (a full 1/8″ or more), and round it over so there’s no corner to nick. Two such edges meeting each other will deform slightly and dent, but won’t cause the kind of deep nicks that lead to blade breakage. Over time, the edge will pack down onto itself and from there on be pretty indifferent to impacts.
T. Diamante
Joined: 09 Aug 2016
Posts: 70
Location: United StatesJoined: 09 Aug 2016 Posted: Thu 11 Aug, 2016 12:36 am Post subject: I’ll try that test tomorrow if I have time. If I have indeed ruined the temper, then no harm. It would have been cool to have a stage combat ready sword but I never really planned on using it, so a wall hanger is just fine. That would also take away the issue of hilt assembly, since the ring of the blade would be irrelevant.
I have to say, I’ve never seen aluminum swords of the quality you sell. I’ve come across quite a few aluminum sparring and stage swords, and they’ve always looked to bulky, blunt and just “off”, not at all like the ones on your site. If I may, what got you into working with aluminum and not blunt steel?
Jesse Belsky
Industry Professional
Joined: 12 Aug 2007
Spotlight topics: 1
Posts: 179
Location: Durham, NCJoined: 12 Aug 2007 Posted: Thu 11 Aug, 2016 8:12 am Post subject: Thanks! My own sword background is in stage combat, and when I got the bug to try building something I was in graduate school and had access to a good metalworking shop, but no access to heat-treating facilities. So I thought I would start with aluminum, which I could fashion into a functional stage blade with no forge, oven, etc. Also, it’s much easier to cut, grind and file than steel, so it seemed like a good place to start.
I do my best to make the AL swords look and feel real. The audience has to believe in them, but so does the performer. You can make an aluminum sword out of unground flat bar and it will still be light enough to wield, but i can’t believe in it as a weapon. That works fine as a trainer for HEMA, but not for stage/film production.
T. Diamante
Joined: 09 Aug 2016
Posts: 70
Location: United StatesJoined: 09 Aug 2016 Posted: Wed 17 Aug, 2016 10:44 am Post subject: I performed the test to check tempering, and there was a noticeably more damage to the blade than the piece of stock I tested it against. I’ve since more or less completed the sword and scabbard(images below). It’s been a pretty interesting learning process, and several mistakes were made.
Firstly, I made the guard and pommel from leftover aluminum stock, which turned out to be a significant error on my part. The guard and pommel are not nearly heavy enough to counter balance the blade, and this is only compounded by the fact that I made the pommel too small to begin with. So while the sword weighs only about a pound and a half, it feels remarkably heavier as the center of balance is about nine inches in front of the guard. It was only after this mistake that I realized that aluminum blades are typically still mounted on steel hilts. The grip feels a little too fat for me, although I do have relatively small hands and I’m sure it would feel fine for someone with larger hands.
As for the scabbard, I decided to go with a coreless design. While it does look a little sleeker and holds the blade really nicely(it can be turned upside down without falling out, but glides smoothly out of the scabbard) I found that the all leather design has a mind of its own, and doesn’t like to line up perfectly, resulting in an off center stitching line, though this could also be a measuring/cutting error on my part.
Despite these flaws, I’m still mostly happy with the piece. Since the temper was ruined from the start, the sword has been destined to become a display piece, so I’m not to upset about the balance issues. I’d love to hear any comments you have about it. I’m definitely interested in doing another one, hopefully fixing those issues.
Thanks!
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Jesse Belsky
Industry Professional
Joined: 12 Aug 2007
Spotlight topics: 1
Posts: 179
Location: Durham, NCJoined: 12 Aug 2007 Posted: Thu 18 Aug, 2016 10:52 am Post subject: A very good first effort! I look forward to seeing your next piece. Don’t be afraid to copy dimensions and proportions shamelessly until you get the hang of things.
good luck!
Lafayette C Curtis
Joined: 29 Nov 2006
Reading list: 7 books
Posts: 2,698
Location: IndonesiaJoined: 29 Nov 2006 Posted: Tue 20 Sep, 2016 2:28 am Post subject: OK, so going off on something of a tangent, can anybody chime in with experience about the malleability of aluminium? I know customs cars sometimes involve extensive manual work by panel-beaters so some aluminium alloys are clearly malleable, but what about the ones that are suitable for swords? And what about thinner stock for armour? Are they easier or harder to shape with the hammer than steel? And does it mostly involve cold work (with periodic annealing?) or hot?
T. Diamante
Joined: 09 Aug 2016
Posts: 70
Location: United StatesJoined: 09 Aug 2016 Posted: Tue 20 Sep, 2016 11:53 am Post subject: Lafayette, I’m sure Jesse can probably answer this question better than I can. My experience with forming aluminum is pretty limited, but in the sword build I completed I did bend the crossguard slightly upward and peened the tang over. The peen was very thick but much easier to cold work than steel. As I understand it aluminum work hardens and in order to anneal it, I’m under the impression that you would most likely ruin the temper. However in components where the temper is less important, like the crossguard and pommel, it may be possible to do more complex cold forming. I have zero knowledge of working with sheet aluminum.
I hope this helped at least a little, good luck with any future projects you do!
-Tomas
Ray J
Joined: 09 Sep 2017
Posts: 1
Joined: 09 Sep 2017 Posted: Sun 10 Dec, 2017 2:56 pm Post subject: Material and cost Hi guys. Love this thread. I have been lurking for quite a while and I am really interested in making my own sword.
I have access to a small shed and backyard porch, so no heat treating for me. I don’t want anything with a cutting edge anyways. So I was thinking about making an aluminum blade or an untempered steel blade. I have made wooden ones before. I was wonder about the preferred material and the cost. I have seen that 7075 T6 costs quite a lot to obtain a stock suitable for a blade. About $70+ if I remember correctly. Steel or other types of aluminum may be the cheaper alternative in this regard. So where do you get your material? And what size stocks? And what material other than 7075 is good for training/horsing around?
Thank you so much.
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