Top 18 How To Apply Diamond Brite Pool Finish 12159 Good Rating This Answer

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Lightly moisten walls and floors prior to application of Diamond Brite. MIXING: Thoroughly mix Diamond Brite to a homogeneous lump-free consistency using 1-1/2-2gallons of portable water per 80 lb. bag. APPLICATION: Diamond Brite should be applied to a uniform thickness of 3/8” to ½” over the entire surface.Allow BOND-KOTE to cure for at least six (6) hours before plastering. The plaster should be applied to BOND-KOTE within three (3) to five (5) days. If left for a longer period before the finish is applied, ensure Bond Kote is clean and free of dirt, efflorescence, and other contaminants.Diamond Brite plaster is commonly accepted as the best pool interior finish, giving you the lasting beauty and durability of a diamond. Unlike traditional marble-based pool plaster, Diamond Brite is made with natural quartz.

Contents

How long does it take Diamond Brite to cure?

Allow BOND-KOTE to cure for at least six (6) hours before plastering. The plaster should be applied to BOND-KOTE within three (3) to five (5) days. If left for a longer period before the finish is applied, ensure Bond Kote is clean and free of dirt, efflorescence, and other contaminants.

Is Diamond Brite a good pool finish?

Diamond Brite plaster is commonly accepted as the best pool interior finish, giving you the lasting beauty and durability of a diamond. Unlike traditional marble-based pool plaster, Diamond Brite is made with natural quartz.

How Long Does Diamond Brite pool finish last?

Pool owners often tell us that it feels more comfortable for their feet after we place in this smooth finish. Colored quartz is added as it can come in colors such as emerald, blue-gray, aqua blue, and many others. Diamond Brite finishes can last about 8 years- 15 years. A Diamond Brite finish is strong and durable.

How is Diamondbrite applied?

HOW TO USE DIAMONDBRITE CONSERVER Apply after use of Diamondbrite Max Foam Shampoo. 1) Shake well. 2) Add 25ml (1 capful) of Conserver to a clean bucket of water. 3) Using a separate bucket and sponge if possible, apply solution to all exterior paintwork.

How thick is Diamond Brite applied?

bag. APPLICATION: Diamond Brite should be applied to a uniform thickness of 3/8” to ½” over the entire surface.

What is the most popular Diamond Brite color?

Common colors for Diamond Brite pools include Cool Blue, Onyx, Ivory, Oyster Quartz, Aqua Quartz, and Verde. However, our favorites are Tahoe Blue and French Gray.

Can you wax over Diamond Brite?

You can simply wax over it though and the wax will become the outer protective layer on the car. A pure wax (eg not a cleaner wax) shouldnt remove it, but obviously if you clay, polish and use paint cleaners in future you will.

What is the most popular pool finish?

Plaster Finishes

Plaster, a timeless option, is the most common pool surface finish. It’s a simple mixture of water, Portland cement, and either marble dust or silica sand.

What is the best product to resurface a pool?

Fibreglass– At the risk of sounding immodest, fibreglass is one of the best products to resurface a pool. Why? Because it has been a popular type of pool finish for over 40 years due to its strength, versatility, and cost-effectiveness.

What is the most popular Diamond Brite color?

Common colors for Diamond Brite pools include Cool Blue, Onyx, Ivory, Oyster Quartz, Aqua Quartz, and Verde. However, our favorites are Tahoe Blue and French Gray.

Is Diamond Brite waterproof?

But one of our jobs is to simplify the complex. In short, there are four main types of plaster that Absolute Pools uses to waterproof your pool, each of which has many variations. They are marcite, Diamond Brite, Hydrazzo and PebbleTec.

What is the best pebble pool finish?

Baja Micro Mini Pebble, which is a result of over 20 years of testing a mixture of Pozzolanic additives, cement and pebble to create an even tinier aggregate, is even smoother. It is the smoothest pebble finish available.

SGM Diamond Brite Application Part 2..mpg

Diamond Brite Pool Finish – YouTube

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Diamond Brite® - SGM, Inc. — Diamond Brite® – SGM, Inc.

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Most searched keywords: Whether you are looking for Diamond Brite Resurfacing Guide, Everything You Need to Know About a Diamond Brite Project. Updating Diamond Brite Resurfacing is a great renovation project to do in your Broward – Fort Lauderdale swimming pool. Learn ALL about it in our extensive guide.
Table of Contents:

What is Diamond Brite

Reasons Why Diamond Brite is one of the Best Resurfacing Materials

How much Does a Concrete Pool Resurfacing Project Cost

Aggregate Quartz Finish Diamond Brite VS White Plaster Which One is Better

What Happens When I Don’t Resurface My Pool

Diamond Brite Resurfacing Provides Protection From Environmental Pollutants

Diamond Brite Resurfacing Helps in Avoiding Swimming Pool Staining

Diamond Brite Resurfacing Provides Comfort and Safety

Cool Blue

Super Blue

Tahoe Blue

Midnight Blue

Diamond Brite Resurfacing Guide, Everything You Need to Know About a Diamond Brite Project.

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Diamond Brite®

SURFACE PREPARATION

Examine pool surfaces to identify conditions that might interfere with the proper bonding of coating. Look for algae, mold, mildew, dirt, paint, mortar droppings, efflorescence, patching compounds, loose tile, cracked plaster, et cetera. Identify hollow spots in plaster by sounding. Clean pool surfaces of all material that might interfere with the proper bonding of coatings. Clean with high-pressure water or by sandblasting. Wash with chlorine until algae, mold, and mildew are gone. Wash oil and grease spots using tri-sodium phosphate or equivalent and water; soak if necessary. Remove all cleaning solutions via high-pressure washing. Remove and repair all hollow and de-laminated plaster. Saw cut an area three (3) inches around bad spots and remove plaster inside the saw cut. Undercut the edges of the remaining plaster. Fill holes with specified patching cement (SGM Mortar Mix and Southcrete™ 25 Acrylic Admix) to a level of existing plaster. Remove loose tile and fittings; undercut existing plaster two (2) inches below the tile line, and around return lines and fittings to a depth of 3/8 inch. Stop water penetration from the outside pool. Plug cracks and leaks around fittings using hydraulic cement (SGM Dynamite Pool Patch). Etch clean the surface with a muriatic acid solution. Use concentration necessary to clean and roughen the surface; smooth surfaces may require higher concentration. Neutralize surface with a solution of baking soda and water to eliminate acid residue, which can cause bond failure. Remove remaining acid solutions via high-pressure washing. Plug pool inlets and outlets to prevent clogging with expandable plugs or threaded caps. Mark location of fittings using tape on coping or on a measured drawing. Place the sump pump at the main drain to remove all running and standing water. Do not begin installation until the concrete pool shell has cured at least 28 days. For renovation projects (plastering over an existing plaster pool finish) and poured or formed concrete shells apply SGM BOND-KOTE™ as directed. Allow BOND-KOTE to cure for at least six (6) hours before plastering. The plaster should be applied to BOND-KOTE within three (3) to five (5) days. If left for a longer period before the finish is applied, ensure Bond Kote is clean and free of dirt, efflorescence, and other contaminants. If necessary, clean BOND-KOTE by brushing vigorously while spraying with water; chlorine may be used as needed.

MIXING

Diamond Brite is made in batches of 4,000 to 20,000 lbs. (1,800 to 9,000 kg.) using natural ingredients. For this reason, there will be variations in shade between batches. Batch numbers are printed at the end of each individual bag. It is important that the user follow these instructions carefully to ensure the most consistent color throughout the pool.

Jobsite additives, such as calcium chloride solutions, pump-aides, or bonding agents can affect the color of this product. For best results mix product using only cool clean, potable water. If adding any other approved additives, hold a portion of the mix water to dissolve the additives, screen and add the final amount to mixer. Additives should be introduced at the end of the mixing process. Ensure that the additives are mixed with water and pre-dissolved.

Separate the bags according to the batch numbers on the bottom of each bag. Record all batch numbers. Warranties submitted without valid batch numbers are VOID. Blend different batches together in each mix according to the ratio present at the job site. FOR EXAMPLE: If there are thirty (30) bags total on the job and there are twenty (20) bags of Batch A and ten (10) bags of Batch B, then use two (2) bags of Batch A to one (1) bag of Batch B in every mix. Coverage: Each 80 lbs. bag will cover approximately 22—25 sq. ft., to a thickness of minimum 3/8″—½”. Surface roughness affects coverage rates. The shelf life of Diamond Brite is up to one (1) year in the unopened properly stored container. Diamond Brite can be mixed by using a low-speed paddle mixer, low RPM drill with mud paddle, ribbon blender, or concrete plaster mixer. Measure and add 1½ to two (2) gallons (5.7 to 7.6 L) of clean potable water to mixer.

Hold back a portion of the water and add as necessary as mixing progresses. Lower water to cement ratios will produce plaster of greater strength and density. Therefore it is best to use as little water as needed to produce a workable mix. Excess water will reduce strength and increase shrinkage (check) cracks.

NOTE: Mix water quality is extremely important. Well water or water high in metal and mineral content will cause discoloration in finished Diamond Brite. Additionally, water of high hardness or alkalinity will cause the plaster to effloresce, releasing high levels of salts that produce calcium scale. This is especially true of colored Diamond Brite such as Midnight Blue, Onyx, Tahoe Blue, and French Gray.

Check mix water for metals, minerals, hardness, and alkalinity before use. Start the mixer and add Diamond Brite as quickly as possible to ensure that all the material has the proper mix time. Mix for a minimum of five (5) minutes but no more than ten (10) minutes. This ensures even distribution of aggregates and increases the working time of the plaster. Insufficient mix time will result in uneven setting and shade variations. Too much mix time will produce an overall weaker plaster and may entrain undesirable air bubbles. As a rule of thumb, mix for only the amount of time required to produce a consistent, homogenous mix. Calcium Chloride may be used as an accelerator. It must be fully dissolved in the water allowing impurities to settle out. Pour off the solution from the top being careful not to add impurities to the mix. The impurities found in calcium chloride flake and pellets have been known to cause discoloration in pool plaster. No more than 2% by weight of cement (about 1/2 lb. per bag) can be used. Overuse may cause discoloration.

PUMPING

Although it is not necessary to use a plaster pump, many contractors do. Included here are some helpful hints for successful pumping. Increase the size of the pump manifold from three (3) inches to four (4) inches. Change the valve ball from plastic to steel to improve longevity. Set a plaster pump to the lowest gear by moving the belt. Always begin pumping with a full stroke on the main piston. This is accomplished by advancing the wheel until the cam is at its highest position. Prepare a slurry of cement and water or pump aid and run it through the pump first to prime the pump and lubricate the hoses. Pour the mixed plaster slowly into the pump hopper. Do not pour all the material in at once. Agitate the material in the hopper to prevent separation of the cement and aggregate. Avoid unnecessary stopping during the pumping process. Diamond Brite aggregate will tend to settle in the pump manifold and hoses when the pump is stopped. Agitate the remaining material left in the hopper to reduce clogging. Do not try to clear a blockage using the pump. Disassemble and clean the manifold and hoses when clogged. Do not over-water mix. This will only cause the material to separate, clogging the pump and hoses.

APPLICATION

The substrate should be cool and damp but not dripping wet. Mist the shell with cool, clean potable water. Non- absorbed water may be removed by using sponges and/ or air. Standing water will weaken Diamond Brite and may cause washouts. Note: Hot, dry shells will cause the rapid setting of the plaster and result in check or shrinkage cracking and de-lamination. All materials and effected areas should remain above 50°F / 10°C (fifty degrees Fahrenheit / ten degrees Celsius) or below 100°F / 38°C (100 degrees Fahrenheit / 38 degrees Celsius) 24-hours prior and 72-hours after placement. Discard unmixed material (lumps). Apply plaster liberally with the flat side of the trowel using sufficient pressure to key in a scratch coat on the vertical surfaces. Beginning with the shady walls and working to the sunny walls, trowel a scratch coat onto the walls and allow to set up until it becomes tacky. The set time will vary according to temperature and humidity. Once the scratch coat has become tacky, apply a finish coat to the entire pool surface beginning in bowl area and working toward the shallow end, troweling and blending walls and floor together to achieve a seamless appearance while working to a final thickness of 3/8″ to one-half inch (½”) (10 mm — 12 mm). Uniform troweling will help to ensure even exposure, reduce washouts and produce a comfortable slip-resistant finish. The technique of “slick troweling” is recommended. During application make several passes with pool trowels to compact the aggregate and ensure a smooth dense finish. In this process, the cement paste is brought to the surface during troweling, then removed with the trowel. This produces a slick surface and minimizes the exposure needed. Small amounts of lubrication water may be necessary for smoothing out and compacting the finish in this process. The aggregate can be seen through a thin film of cement paste after troweling is complete. Special attention must be given to the filling in of spike holes. The applicator must be careful to fill all spike holes with Diamond Brite aggregate to avoid visible spike holes. Extra care must be taken to ensure proper troweling in the coves and corners. Specialty trowels are required for these areas. Insufficient troweling in these areas will result in roughness and washouts (loss of cement and aggregate) during the exposure process.

EXPOSURE

NOTE: You must have one workman for every 300 square feet to properly expose Diamond Brite. The exposure time is limited to approximately one hour but will vary according to local conditions. Beginning too early or too late will result in uneven exposure. Some areas may be ready for exposure while other areas are still being troweled. Constant inspection of the Diamond Brite for readiness is imperative. There are several techniques commonly used to expose Diamond Brite. The following is a list of the most popular techniques.

Water Washing with Brushes: NOTE: This is by far the most effective technique and produces the best results with standard Diamond Brite pool finishes. It is not recommended for the Diamond Brite® Quartz Series pool finishes. When the Diamond Brite has lost its sheen or is no longer damp, it may be ready for exposure with soft bristle brushes and water. The material must be sufficiently set up to allow applicators to walk on the floor without leaving footprints. Wear white cotton socks or foam shoes when exposing Diamond Brite. Boots and bare feet are not recommended. Test the plaster for readiness by carefully washing a small area with a soft bristle brush. If the cream washes away without losing aggregate the exposure process may begin. Starting with sunny or fast setting areas begin washing away cement paste with water and brushes. Use a bucket first then progress to a soft flow of water from a garden hose as the material begins to harden. Begin using stiff bristle brushes as the set progresses. Examine the plaster for hot spots that may be set quickly. Mist these areas with water to allow longer exposure time. Over-cured cement paste will not remove easily and may require stiff bristle brushes to remove. Avoid slow setting areas like shady walls and the bowl. Washing too soon in these areas will cause washouts. If an area washes out it must be re-troweled immediately. Keep some extra Diamond Brite mixed up for use in patching washout areas. Keep a sump pump running in the main drain at all times to discharge the wash solution. Dispose of wash as directed by local requirements. Avoid leaving hoses, buckets or any other items on the plaster during exposure. Any object left on the plaster during this critical phase may leave a “shadow” on the surface. In the event of shadowing heat may be carefully applied to remove the discoloration. When all of the cement paste has been removed from the surface uniformly, the brush phase is complete. If done thoroughly, this will complete the exposure process. The process of acid washing as described below is optional. If desired, an acid wash may now be performed using a 25% solution of muriatic acid (higher concentrations may be needed for stubborn areas) and water to remove the thin film that may remain on the surface. Proper safety equipment must be worn at all times. Begin washing the bowl first and work up to the shallow end. Following this procedure will minimize “rivers” or streaks on the floor. The use of an acid wash additive to reduce fumes and ensure uniform coverage is highly recommended. Neutralize and discard the wash solution according to local requirements. Neutralize acid remaining on the Diamond Brite with Soda Ash and water to avoid discoloration.

Acid Washing: NOTE: This technique is commonly used in cold climates or when the plasterers lack sufficient experience to undertake water washing. It is easier to do but can produce a less uniform finish. Use this technique when applying the Quartz Series. After troweling, allow the plaster to fully set up. This may take anywhere from one to a few hours or overnight, depending on local job site conditions. Begin acid washing by using a 25% solution of muriatic acid (higher concentrations may be needed for stubborn areas) and water to remove the cement film that may remain on the surface. Increase the concentration of the acid solution as needed. Proper safety equipment must be worn at all times. Begin washing the bowl first and work up to the shallow end. Following this procedure will minimize “rivers” or streaks on the floor. Acid wash walls and steps last. Do not allow acid wash solution to puddle in the bowl area. Use a sump pump to constantly discard the runoff after it is diluted and neutralized. The use of an acid wash additive to reduce fumes and ensure uniform coverage is highly recommended. Neutralize and discard the wash solution according to local requirements. Neutralize acid remaining on the Diamond Brite with Soda Ash and water to avoid discoloration.

Wet Acid Wash: NOTE: Also called Acid Start-Up or No Drain Acid Wash. This technique is sometimes used after water washing. It is also used in areas where the fill water is high in alkalinity and or hardness. When used alone without water washing this technique produces the least desirable results. It will not remove all of the cement paste evenly and may result in a streaked appearance. Remove all metal such as ladders and lights from the pool and turn off the circulation system. After filling the pool test the alkalinity to determine the amount of muriatic acid needed to lower the Total Alkalinity to zero. Distribute the acid evenly throughout the pool. Brush the pool thoroughly over the entire surface twice daily for three (3) days. Add a sequestering agent and raise the pH to the proper level with soda ash. Start the circulation system and follow the start-up instructions.

Powerwash Exposure Technique: Hard trowel pool to a uniform smooth finish. Let finish air dry for 1-3 hours after completion. Begin the acid wash process by filling a pool with eight (8) to ten (10) inches of water. This water will buffer the acid solution during the exposure process. Acid wash with 100% muriatic acid starting with walls working down to the bowl. Leave acid on for approximately one (1) to two (2) minutes before rinsing off with a hose. Keep constant water on the floor to diffuse acid solution avoiding streaks. Keep acid-washed areas wet through the entire process or cement paste will re-set. Complete the acid wash on the floor and the bowl of the pool, finish by pumping out water. Begin the power-washing phase with 2,500 psi machine using a 45-degree nozzle. Keep tip twelve (12) to eighteen (18) inches away from the surface perpendicular to the plaster finish. Power wash surface with approximately 20% of overlap to ensure complete exposure. Start power-washing walls from tile line thru cove of the pool, finish with the floor. Pump out remaining water; install main drain covers, lights, and fittings.

DIAMOND BRITE COLOR COMBINATIONS

STEEL BLUE – 8 Bags Tahoe Blue + 2 Bags Onyx

AEGEAN SEA – 4 Bags Tahoe Blue + 6 Bags French Gray

OCEAN BLUE – 4 Bags Midnight Blue + 4 Bags French Gray + 2 Bags Onyx

ISLA VERDE – 4 Bags Verde + 3 Bags Midnight Blue + 3 Bags French Gray

GRECIAN SLATE – 5 Bags French Gray + 3 Bags Verde + 2 Bags Onyx

TAHITI BLUE – 8 Bags Super Blue + 2 Bags Tahoe Blue

COOL QUARTZ – 5 Bags Cool Blue + 5 Bags Blue Quartz

BAHAMA BREEZE – 9 Bags Tahoe Blue + 1 Bags Onyx

COBALT – 6 Bags Midnight Blue + 4 Bags Onyx

INITIAL FILL AND BALANCING — OPTIMUM POOL AND SPA WATER CHEMISTRY CONDITIONS

In accordance with the National Plasterers Council, Inc. (“NPC”) standards, it is recommended that the following pool and spa water chemistry conditions be maintained on an ongoing basis for the longevity of the interior pool and spa finish. These values are important to prevent corrosion, deterioration, discoloration, scaling or other problems. For more information refer to your local agency having jurisdiction or NPC.

Follow recommended fill and balancing procedures to ensure a successful start-up. Fill pool completely and without interruption with clean, potable water. The use of a filter during fill is strongly recommended. The initial fill water is the most important water that the pool will receive and must be tested, recorded and adjusted according to the following parameters by an experienced pool professional. For the first thirty days (30) the pH and alkalinity must be monitored and adjusted (if applicable) every three (3) to five (5) days. All other chemicals monitored and adjusted (if applicable) every seven (7) to ten (10) days. The pool water must be tested regularly and documented monthly by a reputable company using a computerized system. Monitoring the pool water regularly will not only affect the new finish but will keep it looking new. Improper water chemistry will void the limited residential / commercial warranty. It is recommended that a quality sequestering agent be used in the initial start-up in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions and then a recommended maintenance dosage per the sequestering agent’s manufacturer instructions.

FIRST DAY: Add sequestering agent upon initial fill per manufacturer’s instructions. Adjust pH to 7.2 – 7.6 and total alkalinity to 80 -120 PPM. Maintain calcium hardness at a minimum of 125 PPM for the first three days, then adjust to 200-400 PPM thereafter. Dissolve chemicals completely in water and disperse throughout pool.

Add sequestering agent upon initial fill per manufacturer’s instructions. Adjust pH to 7.2 – 7.6 and total alkalinity to 80 -120 PPM. Maintain calcium hardness at a minimum of 125 PPM for the first three days, then adjust to 200-400 PPM thereafter. Dissolve chemicals completely in water and disperse throughout pool. SECOND DAY: Record pH, total alkalinity, calcium hardness, and temperature levels. Adjust pH to 7.4 — 7.6 and total alkalinity to 80—120 PPM. Dissolve all chemicals completely in water before adding to the pool, and allow sufficient time for each chemical to be fully dispersed before adding other chemicals. DO NOT ADD CHLORINE. Brush the entire surface twice daily for the first three (3) days.

Record pH, total alkalinity, calcium hardness, and temperature levels. Adjust pH to 7.4 — 7.6 and total alkalinity to 80—120 PPM. Dissolve all chemicals completely in water before adding to the pool, and allow sufficient time for each chemical to be fully dispersed before adding other chemicals. Brush the entire surface twice daily for the first three (3) days. THIRD DAY: Repeat steps from Second Day. Adjust chemistry to the following levels: Free Chlorine: 1.0 — 3.0 PPM pH: 7.4—7.6 Total Alkalinity: 80—120 PPM Calcium Hardness: 200—400 PPM Stabilizer: 30—60 PPM

Repeat steps from Second Day. Adjust chemistry to the following levels:

Adjust circulating pump timer to normal operating hours. Brush the pool walls and floor daily for the first two (2) weeks. Do not vacuum pool with wheeled vacuum for 14 days. Putting a wheel cleaner in the pool prematurely can cause wheel marks/ tracks to show up on the pool finish. Do not install an automatic pool cleaner for 28 days. No salt should be added for 28 days. Please make sure the water pH and alkalinity is balanced prior to the use of salt chlorine generators.

DAILY WATER CHEMISTRY AFTER 28 DAYS

Maintain the water chemistry using the Langelier Saturation Index (LSI) maintained between 0.0 and +0.3.

Description Pool & Spa Water Levels

Free Chlorine – Above 4.0 PPM may cause corrosion 1 – 3 PPM

Total Chlorine 1 – 3 PPM

pH 7.4 – 7.6

Alkalinity 80 – 120 PPM

Calcium Hardness 200 – 400 PPM

Cyanuric Acid 50 – 80 PPM

TDS (Non-Salt Pools) 300 – 1800 PPM

Salt Level (Salt Chlorination ONLY) 2500 – 3500 PPM

SHELF LIFE

Up to one (1) year from date of manufacture in an unopened properly stored container.

CAUTION

WARNING — EYE IRRITANT CONTAINS PORTLAND CEMENT. Product is alkaline on contact with water. Use paddle for mixing to avoid splashing into eyes or contact with skin. During mixing or application avoid contact with eyes. In case of such contact, flood eyes repeatedly with water and CALL A PHYSICIAN. Wash thoroughly after handling and before smoking or eating. Do not take internally. CONTAINS FREE SILICA — DO NOT BREATHE DUST. Prolonged exposure to dust may cause delayed lung disease (Silicosis). WARNING: This product may expose you to chemicals, including silica, which the State of California recognizes as a cause of cancer. For more information, visit the Proposition 65 Warnings Website (www.P65Warnings.ca.gov). Use NIOSH approved masks at all times to handle silica dust. KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN.

Diamond Brite Resurfacing Guide, Everything You Need to Know About a Diamond Brite Project.

Having a pool in your home or grounds might seem like an exotic idea, and factors such as costs and upkeep might be off-putting, but it doesn’t have to be.

There are several expenses associated with having a pool, some of which are recurring costs, for example, refinishing and resurfacing. Concrete pools themselves can get pretty expensive, therefore keeping them properly maintained should be your top priority.

Other than the usual prices for the general maintenance of your pool throughout the year, repairs and utilities can add to the bills.

The surface on your pool is responsible for sealing it and helps keep the water from seeping into the ground. With proper care of the surface, ideally it can last you for up to two decades, but in most cases, you would need to repair it earlier than that.

Figuring out how much it would cost to resurface your pool depends on several factors.

These include:

The size of your pool

The extent of damage to the pool’s surface

The need for any additional repairs such as leaks or crack repairs

The type and quality of the material you wish to use for the new surface

When it comes to choosing the type of pool surface, there are several options. The three basic types of pool surfaces and their average cost per square foot are as given below.

White plaster – $4 per square foot Aggregate quartz finish/ Diamond Brite – $5 per square foot Pebble finish – $10 per square foot

So as you can see from the above, the aggregate quartz finish provides a good balance between affordability and quality. It’s a mixture of concrete and finely crushed pebbles, which is then dyed and smoothed over the concrete on your pool.

NOTE: Sometimes you can prolong the life of your diamond brite finish by patching your diamond brite pool. Read our diamond brite repair guide to learn more.

Concrete Pool Resurfacing Cost: What to Expect

Concrete Pool Resurfacing Cost: What to Expect

Your family loved having the pool when first purchasing the home. Yet after a few years, the interior’s appearance has changed. There are cracks along the floor and the colors have faded. Even extensive cleanings haven’t worked to restore the surface to its previous beauty. If this is happening to you then it sounds like its time to renovate so lets dive into the concrete pool resurfacing cost of your best options, so you can plan accordingly.

How Much Does Concrete Pool Resurfacing Cost?

Here at GPS Pools, we’ve dealt with many clients in this same situation. There are just so many factors involved when trying to figure out pool resurfacing costs that many people are not aware of until the job is started. The best place to start is to figure out what materials were used for your concrete pool and the type of finish that you would like our professionals to install. The most popular materials out on the market today are Marquis finishes, Diamond Brite finishes, Pebbletec finishes, and Stonescape finishes.

Marquis Finishes

Marquis finishes manufactured by Premix Marbletite consist of a mixture of aggregated pebbles or pieces of quartz placed into the cement that has been modified by a polymer. It is an exposed aggregate where the quartz or pebbles are exposed during the entire installation process and after the finish has cured. It can be custom dyed in a range of colors such as green, blue, white, and grey.

Marquis finishes can last from 5 years to 10 years. A common problem our customers experience with Marquis pools is that the interior will begin to erode, discolor, or look stained. This issue is largely due to the quartz aggregate fading or discoloring from the sun or when reacting negatively to the chemicals and pH/alkalinity in the water. Maintaining the right balance is essential to prevent damage, as occasionally hiring a professional to check the chemical balance can help cut done on the future cost of pool resurfacing.

Diamond Brite Finishes

Diamond Brite is a brand name for a line of exposed aggregate pool finishes. It is polymer-modified cement that has natural quartz aggregate. Pool owners often tell us that it feels more comfortable for their feet after we place in this smooth finish. Colored quartz is added as it can come in colors such as emerald, blue-gray, aqua blue, and many others. Diamond Brite finishes can last about 8 years- 15 years.

A Diamond Brite finish is strong and durable. It can stand up well to the corrosiveness from chemicals and unbalanced pH levels. Signs to look for to indicate that an old Diamond Brite finish needs resurfacing is that you will see scaling, etching, or cracking. Scaling occurs when using hard water in the pool, while etching is caused when the pH level is too low. If there are pool cracks, also called crazing, this problem often happens when extreme weather conditions impact the finish’s curing process during the installation process.

PebbleTec Finishes

PebbleTec finishes are exposed aggregate surfaces created by mixing round pebbles into the cement, as this brand of aggregate has been around for over 25 years. Many pool owners enjoy the look of PebbleTec because it is reminiscent of a lakeside area where there are tiny pebbles along the lake bed. The concrete pool resurfacing cost of using PebbleTec can last for 10 to 20 years.

PebbleTec is a good choice because it is low maintenance and lasts for a very long time, which bumps up the price. It is also corrosion-resistant. The major issues that you may experience with PebbleTec are scaling and calcium buildup due to poor water chemistry. These problems can cause the pebbles to discolor and the colors to fade. Investing in an automatic pool cleaner can keep the floor of the pool clean and remove the buildup before it becomes a problem.

Stonescape Finishes

Stonescape finishes are similar to PebbleTec finishes. It is also an exposed aggregate stone and cement mixture. The major difference with Stonescape is that the stones come in bigger sizes although they do have some mini pebble options.

Like PebbleTec, Stonescape will last about the same amount of time and provides the same positive attributes such as strength and durability, as well as negative issues like experiencing scale and calcium buildup. You will see the signs that the pool will need resurfacing when seeing the discoloration of the stones and wear to the cement. Also, keep in mind that exposed aggregate finishes can feel large and bumpy under the feet, which can make your feet feel uncomfortable. So consider how you want the pool floor to feel when walking and bouncing across it before selecting this finish.

We Can Help You Manage Your Concrete Pool Resurfacing Cost

When it comes to remodeling and resurfacing your pool, you want to ensure that such a large project runs as smoothly as possible. Here at GPS Pools in Lutz and Land O’Lakes, we take the hassles out of pool resurfacing by providing an exceptional installation process. It is not a simple DIY project as many things can go wrong. By working with the professionals, we can ensure that the job is done right the first time and that you can get the surface finish which will last for years.

In addition, we offer pool products that can help you maintain a safe and healthy environment for your entire family. Contact us today to learn more about the finishes that are available for your pool resurfacing project.

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