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We recommend rinsing the print using soapy water or isopropyl alcohol. Simply drop the print in the liquid and scrub using a sponge or paper towel. Be careful not to scrub too hard, as you could potentially discolor or damage the part.To clean PLA, ABS & PETG, you want to use a combination of removing support materials with your hands or a tool, along with cutting off small blemishes like leftover material and blobs on the print. You can then sand the prints down with low grit sandpaper, up to higher grit sandpaper, then polish.Formlabs generally recommends the use of isopropyl alcohol (IPA) with a concentration of at least 90% to clean and dissolve uncured resin. In case you cannot acquire IPA, tripropylene glycol monomethyl ether (TPM) is a tested alternative for parts printed with non-biocompatible Formlabs resins.
- Remove supports from your part. Use a set of flush cutters to remove sections, or peel off supports by hand. …
- Sand down support marks. …
- Sand and smooth surface. …
- Mount the part. …
- Wash the surface to remove dust. …
- Wipe down the surface with a tack cloth. …
- Mix the primer. …
- Spray the first coat of primer.
Contents
How do you clean a 3D PLA print?
To clean PLA, ABS & PETG, you want to use a combination of removing support materials with your hands or a tool, along with cutting off small blemishes like leftover material and blobs on the print. You can then sand the prints down with low grit sandpaper, up to higher grit sandpaper, then polish.
What can I use to clean my resin 3D print?
Formlabs generally recommends the use of isopropyl alcohol (IPA) with a concentration of at least 90% to clean and dissolve uncured resin. In case you cannot acquire IPA, tripropylene glycol monomethyl ether (TPM) is a tested alternative for parts printed with non-biocompatible Formlabs resins.
How do you clean a 3D print before painting?
- Remove supports from your part. Use a set of flush cutters to remove sections, or peel off supports by hand. …
- Sand down support marks. …
- Sand and smooth surface. …
- Mount the part. …
- Wash the surface to remove dust. …
- Wipe down the surface with a tack cloth. …
- Mix the primer. …
- Spray the first coat of primer.
Does alcohol dissolve PLA?
Smoothing PLA using Polymaker branded products
There is a type of PLA whose formulation makes it soluble in isopropyl alcohol, a much less dangerous product than acetone or methylene chloride.
Do you need to wash 3D prints?
All resins are classified as a skin irritant, therefore nitrile gloves and safety glasses should be worn while handling uncured resin. If you get any liquid resin on your skin, you’ll need to wash immediately with soap and water. Once resin prints have been fully cured with UV light, they are safe to handle.
Can you use 70% isopropyl alcohol to clean resin prints?
The benefit of using 70:30 alcohol to water ratio is that it’s gentle on skin and floors around the house. The negative of using that ratio for 3D printing is that it doesn’t clean the resin well enough. I do not recommend using 70% IPA in 3D printing. So that leaves 91% and 99% IPA.
What alcohol cleans resin prints?
Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) dissolves liquid resin, making it effective for washing parts printed on Formlabs SLA printers and for cleaning resin spills. Wash prints with IPA using the Form Wash, Form Wash L, or the Finish Kit.
Do I need to wash resin prints?
If resin accidentally comes in contact with bare skin, wash immediately with soap and water. Avoid leaving resin trails on items you touch. If a spill occurs, clean it right away before the resin hardens – a paper towel may just do the trick.
Can you hand wash PLA?
What is this? The fact that PLA is not dishwasher safe doesn’t mean you can’t fully wash your 3D print objects. Instead of using a dishwasher, you can wash your objects after use with lukewarm water and a mild antibacterial detergent. This reduces the risk of a molten print and removes all surface bacteria.
How do you clean prints?
Wipe off the moisture with a dry cloth and place the artwork in direct sunlight for quick drying. Absorbent Food: Use of high absorbing food item like bread is a good option to clean persistent smudges. After removing the crust scrub the entire surface of the painting with the dough using gentle pressure.
Can PLA be washed?
The fact that PLA is not dishwasher safe doesn’t mean you can’t fully wash your 3D print objects. Instead of using a dishwasher, you can wash your objects after use with lukewarm water and a mild antibacterial detergent. This reduces the risk of a molten print and removes all surface bacteria.
How do you smooth PLA 3D printed parts?
- Sanding. The most common method for smoothing PLA prints is sanding. …
- Polishing. …
- Priming. …
- Epoxy resin. …
- Solvents. …
- Vapor smoothing. …
- Heat gun smoothing.
Can PLA be sanded?
Poorer quality PLA isn’t as easy to sand as higher quality. So if you are going to sand PLA, you’ll save yourself hassle printing with high-quality filament. Now to the sanding. To start, you’re going to need a selection of fine grit sandpapers.
How do you clean stringy 3D prints?
Grasp your hairy 3D print on a corner, perhaps with pliers. Swiftly move the print into the hot air flow for only a second or less. If the print is multi-sided, repeat for the other sides. The heat will almost instantly melt away the hairlike structures, but leave the remainder of the print secure.
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Cleaning Resin 3D Prints: Alternative Wash Solutions for SLA Parts
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- Most searched keywords: Whether you are looking for Cleaning Resin 3D Prints: Alternative Wash Solutions for SLA Parts Updating Read on to learn how to clean resin 3D prints, using an automated or alternative wash solutions for SLA parts with solvents like IPA or TPM.wash solvents, 3DP wash solvents, solvents for SLA parts, IPA, TPM, solvents for SLA parts, solvents for 3DP, 3d printing wash solvents, wash solutions for SLA parts, wash solutions for 3d printing
- Table of Contents:
Washing SLA Resin 3D Printed Parts
Methods to Extend the Lifetime of Your IPA
Tripropylene Glycol Monomethyl Ether (TPM)
Other Potentially Available Solvents and Resin Cleaning Solutions
Guide to Painting 3D Printed Parts: Priming (Includes Video)
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Applications
Materials
Tool Checklist
Steps
Part 2 Painting
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- Summary of article content: Articles about Attention Required! | Cloudflare Learn how to clean resin 3D prints in three easy steps. Contents. Step 1: Rinse Off the Part; Step 2: Remove Supports; Step 3 … …
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How to Clean and Cure Resin Prints | Tom’s Hardware
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- Summary of article content: Articles about How to Clean and Cure Resin Prints | Tom’s Hardware 91% isopropyl alcohol can be expensive and sometimes hard to find, but there are alternatives. You can also use Mean Green cleaner, denatured … …
- Most searched keywords: Whether you are looking for How to Clean and Cure Resin Prints | Tom’s Hardware 91% isopropyl alcohol can be expensive and sometimes hard to find, but there are alternatives. You can also use Mean Green cleaner, denatured … Resin prints need to be cleaned and hardened with UV light before they’re safe to handle. Here’s how.
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How to Handle Resin Safely
How to Clean a Resin 3D Print by Hand
What You’ll Need to Clean and Cure Resin Prints
How to Cure a Resin Print in the Sun
How to Make a DIY Resin Curing Station
What You Need
How to Use an All-in-One Wash and Resin Cure Station
What if Your Resin Print is Still Sticky
Isopropyl Alcohol Alternatives
What about Ultrasonic Cleaners
What do I do with Resin Trash
Cleaning Resin 3D Prints: Alternative Wash Solutions for SLA Parts
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- Summary of article content: Articles about Cleaning Resin 3D Prints: Alternative Wash Solutions for SLA Parts Washing SLA Resin 3D Printed Parts · Formlabs recommends washing SLA parts with isopropyl alcohol (IPA) or tripropylene glycol monomethyl ether (TPM). · Parts … …
- Most searched keywords: Whether you are looking for Cleaning Resin 3D Prints: Alternative Wash Solutions for SLA Parts Washing SLA Resin 3D Printed Parts · Formlabs recommends washing SLA parts with isopropyl alcohol (IPA) or tripropylene glycol monomethyl ether (TPM). · Parts … Read on to learn how to clean resin 3D prints, using an automated or alternative wash solutions for SLA parts with solvents like IPA or TPM.wash solvents, 3DP wash solvents, solvents for SLA parts, IPA, TPM, solvents for SLA parts, solvents for 3DP, 3d printing wash solvents, wash solutions for SLA parts, wash solutions for 3d printing
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Washing SLA Resin 3D Printed Parts
Methods to Extend the Lifetime of Your IPA
Tripropylene Glycol Monomethyl Ether (TPM)
Other Potentially Available Solvents and Resin Cleaning Solutions
How To Clean 3d Prints? – Open World Learning
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- Summary of article content: Articles about How To Clean 3d Prints? – Open World Learning How Do You Clean And Cure 3D Prints? (Source: MatterHackers) Cleaning out the printer part first. Start by rinsing your print to remove the uncured resins. Step … …
- Most searched keywords: Whether you are looking for How To Clean 3d Prints? – Open World Learning How Do You Clean And Cure 3D Prints? (Source: MatterHackers) Cleaning out the printer part first. Start by rinsing your print to remove the uncured resins. Step …
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How Do You Clean 3D Printed Pla
What Do You Wash 3D Prints With
How Do You Clean And Cure 3D Prints
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Can You Wash Pla
Do You Need To Wash 3D Prints
How Long Should You Wash And Cure Resin Prints
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How to Clean PLA, ABS & PETG 3D Printed Objects – Easy to Follow – 3D Printerly
When it comes to 3D printed objects and cleaning them, it can be quite troublesome if you don’t have the right techniques. If you want to learn how to properly clean your 3D printed objects, then this article is for you.
To clean PLA, ABS & PETG, you want to use a combination of removing support materials with your hands or a tool, along with cutting off small blemishes like leftover material and blobs on the print. You can then sand the prints down with low grit sandpaper, up to higher grit sandpaper, then polish.
Keep reading through this article for some useful tips and guidance on how to clean your 3D printed objects, whether it’s PLA, ABS, or PETG. You’ll also learn about the right tools to clean up your 3D printed objects.
How to Clean PLA, ABS & PETG 3D Prints
You have just completed 3D printing one of your favorite models, and before you start using it, you see a need to smoothen and make it look cleaner. It can be tricky, but very easy.
Follow the steps outlined below to clean up 3D printed parts of the 3 most commonly used filament types.
How to Clean PLA & PETG 3D Prints
PLA is the most commonly used filament and cleaning it is a pretty simple job when you have the right tools and products.
You’ll want the following:
Flush Cutter
Needle-Nosed Pliers
A Needle File
A Soldering Iron (optional)
A Heat Gun
Sandpaper
Clear Spray or Polish
Once you have the right set of tools, we want to ensure our safety by getting some good protective equipment such as safety glasses, and a good pair of cut-resistant gloves like the NoCry Cut Resistant High Performance Gloves from Amazon. This protects our eyes from flinging parts, as well as our hands and fingers.
In terms of safety glasses or goggles, you can go with a simple one like the 3M Safety Glasses with Clear Frame from Amazon, which is made out of Polycarbonate plastic.
Once you have your glasses and gloves on, pick up your 3D printed part from the printer bed and examine if there is stringy filament and other supports used during the actual printing on it.
Most of the time, you can clear supports and stringy material with your hands, making sure to be gentle with the model. When you have good support settings, such as creating a gap between the top and bottom of the support and the model, supports should be easy to remove.
In terms of stringing, you can use good retraction settings, lower temperature settings, along with a filament that doesn’t string too much, PLA being one of them. PETG is known to be quite stringy if you don’t optimize your retraction settings.
You can follow How to Get the Best Retraction Length & Speed Settings to get some great retraction settings for your 3D printer.
For those supports or rafts/brims that are hard to remove, you can bring in your flush cutters to remove them, as well as needle-nosed pliers. Again, you want to be gentle with your model so you don’t remove any important features that are connected.
When you are cutting, it’s a good idea to cut away from yourself rather than towards yourself, as doing that can cause injury. After removing the bigger pieces, we can bring in our needle file or low-grit sandpaper to get rid of the smaller bumps and blobs on the print.
The Miady 120-3,000 Assorted Grit Sandpaper from Amazon is perfect for dry and wet sanding of 3D prints.
The sandpaper is great for surfaces which are larger and flat, while the needle file is great for those harder to reach areas, corners, and between smaller parts of the model.
The KALIM 10 PCs Mini Diamond Needle File Set from Amazon is perfect for this purpose.
Always be gentle while doing these parts and check the model often so you can see where your attention should be focused.
Doing this for the first time can be quite time-consuming, but after some more practice and experience, you can clean up your PLA models pretty quickly.
The heat gun is a great solution for getting rid of those stringy parts, as well as even smoothing over PLA & PETG in some cases to make the exterior shiny, though not completely necessary.
Some people make use of a soldering iron as well to smooth other parts of their print with more precision. With the right flat attachment, you can get some pretty great results.
The Vastar Soldering Iron Kit – Full Set from Amazon is a good solution which comes relatively cheap.
Check out the video below for a nice illustration on how it’s done. It’s great for getting those hard to reach spots on your 3D prints.
In terms of the heat gun, it takes a certain technique of waving over the PLA print rather than holding the hot air on the part. Doing this can make the PLA softer and deform.
After you’ve done these steps, you should have a model that is free of supports, blobs, and most other imperfections.
This is where we can start to clean up the model and make it look more professional. Get your sandpaper and start to sand around the model, starting off with a grit around 100-150. Sanding in a circular motion usually works best.
When it comes to sanding you want to start with lower grits which are rougher, then progress onto higher grits which are finer and allows for a smooth finish. If you want to really go the full mile, you can go from 100 grit to 3,000 grit for a glass-smooth finish.
You can even wet sand the 3D print for better results.
Now that we have a really smooth part, you can choose to apply polish or a clear spray solution to finalize the model.
A great spray coating that some 3D printer users have tried successfully is the Rust-Oleum Clear Painter’s Touch 2X Ultra Cover Can from Amazon. It works great as a clear gloss surface on your resin 3D prints to give it that extra shine.
Another product that can work well to give an extra gloss or polished look on your resin 3D prints is some Thirteen Chef’s Mineral Oil from Amazon, also made in the USA.
You can pour some of this oil onto a soft and dry cotton cloth, then rub it onto your 3D printed part in small circles until all the polish is rubbed into the surface.
Here’s a great video you can follow that teaches you how to clean up 3D prints.
Most other 3D printed materials are usually cleaned up using similar methods like Nylon, HIPS, and others.
How to Clean ABS 3D Prints
We can use pretty similar techniques to clean up our ABS 3D prints as the methods above, but there is a popular smoothing technique that works really well with ABS in particular, called ABS smoothing.
Once we’ve cleaned up our supports and other blemishes and imperfections from our print using the flush cutters and needle file, we can prepare to vapor smooth the ABS print. It saves us having to do the sanding and polishing like with PLA and PETG prints.
One of the best videos on how to do this is by Josef Prusa, which you can watch below.
You can easily buy acetone from a local store or you can find one online like the Pronto 100% Pure Acetone 16 FL. OZ. bottle on Amazon.
When you do acetone vapor smoothing on your ABS prints, you want to make sure you are doing it in a well-ventilated area because it is quite a harsh chemical.
All you need to do is pour some acetone into a container and have your ABS prints elevated above, in an enclosed box like a larger storage container. You want to make sure it is not airtight so there isn’t too much of a pressure build up.
The ABS print shouldn’t have direct contact with the acetone, rather smoothed by the vapors.
A good time for you to leave the ABS print to be smoothed is anywhere from 15-20 minutes. The print will be pretty soft after being smoothed so try not to touch the object, and leave it to dry with the cover off.
How to Clean Up 3D Printed Miniatures
One of the first steps for cleaning up 3D printed miniatures is to remove those supports. When it comes to these minis, supports are vital to creating those detailed prints since there are usually plenty of overhangs on the model’s design.
Before you even start printing your miniature, it’s a good idea to have a good wall thickness so when you are doing your sanding, you don’t sand too deep to the infill.
Being able to use the right techniques to remove supports is important.
You can follow the video below by 3D Printed Tabletop on how to remove tough supports on your miniatures.
I’d recommend getting yourself some Viseman 6″ Mini Needle Nose Pliers from Amazon for cleaning your 3D prints up. These are great at getting into those harder to reach areas, and have a nice grip for more comfort and efficiency.
Another product that I’d recommend getting for miniatures is a Xacto knife which is a handle that holes a sharp blade at the end of it.
The specific one that I would go for is the DIYSELF 20Pcs Xacto Knife with Cutting Mat from Amazon. It has thousands of positive reviews from users that love the product, and has really great value for the price.
Again, I’d recommend getting cut-resistant gloves while using this.
After getting rid of the larger parts, you want to dry sand using a low grit sandpaper, usually ranging anywhere from 60-220. After you have smoothed over and gotten rid of the main imperfections, you can start to wet sand from 120 grit up to 400.
The Miady 120-3,000 Assorted Grit Sandpaper would work really great for sanding miniature 3D prints.
Some users use a sandable primer+filler combination spray that can fill in those layer lines, to be sanded down again for a very smooth surface. The Rust-Oleum 2-in-1 Filler & Sandable Primer is a great choice that you can get from Amazon.
Z-Poxy is a product well-known in the miniature 3D printing niche that works pretty nicely to help provide a cleaner look to models. You can find the Pacer Technology (Zap) Z-Poxy Resin on Amazon.
It does a great job with filling in the gaps between layers to create a smoother and cleaner model. Some people would advise to mix the two-part epoxy with a few drops of isopropyl alcohol to thin out the solution.
When you apply the solution, it should be pretty thin and spread out on your model nicely. After the solution dries on your miniature, it thins out even more as it cures. It can be mixed in a small container and you need to work before it cures.
Once the mixture is together, it starts curing, but to fully cure it can take a few hours.
If you want a simpler solution, you can go for the popular XTC-3D Smooth-On 3D Print Coating from Amazon.
One of the best sets of tools that you can use to clean up 3D printed objects is the HAWKUNG 35 Pieces 3D Printer Accessories Tool Kit on Amazon. It consists of:
1 Remover Scraper
1 Pair of Pliers
2 Tweezers
3 Cleaning Brushes
12 Clean Up Knives
15 Cleaning Needles
Tube Cutter
You can clean up 3D printed objects very nicely with a combination of the pliers, tweezers, cleaning brushes and clean up knives. A lot of the print imperfections such as stringing, nubs from supports, and blobs can be cleaned up efficiently with these tools.
In addition to this, you can also get yourself an AFA Deburring Tool with Removal Blades from Amazon. This tool has a sturdy aluminum handle and a wide body style that is designed specifically for a strong grip.
Not only can you clean up your 3D prints with it, but it has a wide range of applications from removing burrs from several types of material such as plastic, metal, wood, and aluminum.
The blades that it comes with are highly durable, said to have a lifetime 80% longer than regular blades out there. It can even remove burrs from nylon and ABS 3D prints which are known to be tough plastics.
Investing into a solid diagonal cutter is a good idea when you get into 3D printing. The stock items that comes with your printer can get the job done, but they aren’t the highest quality.
The IRWIN Vise-Grip Diagonal Cutting Pliers from Amazon can quickly get rid of supports and other unwanted parts. Many of these tools have similar uses, so it’s up to you which you go for, though having a combination can be useful for the best quality prints.
If you want to move up levels for getting the best clean 3D prints, a popular tool that is used by experts is the Dremel 8220 12-Volt Max Cordless Rotary Tool Kit from Amazon. It is a great solution for cutting, carving, polishing, sanding, and even engraving your 3D prints.
Cleaning Resin 3D Prints: Alternative Wash Solutions for SLA Parts
Post-processing your parts is crucial to the SLA 3D printing workflow. Rinsing, washing, and curing allows you to produce highly functional, detailed parts and finish your parts effectively. For the detailed workflow, read our guide to post-processing resin 3D printed parts.
In general, IPA is our recommended post-processing solvent for cleaning resin prints. Without it, your ability to continue printing and washing parts might be impacted. However, you may have experienced the global shortage of IPA wash solvent due to COVID-19 or your facility may be unable to use IPA due to flammability concerns or local restrictions. For these cases, we can share other recommended solvents and solutions that our customers have used successfully.
We recommend Form Wash and Form Cure alongside Formlabs desktop printers, and Form Wash L and Form Cure L for large-format SLA printers to automate and simplify your post-processing. Form Wash and Form Wash L automate the print washing process for consistent, thorough, no-mess cleaning, while Form Cure and Form Cure L precisely combines heat and 405 nm light to consistently post-cure prints.
When handling wash solvents, always consult the safety data sheet (SDS) from the supplier as the primary source of information and ensure appropriate ventilation when handling.
Guide to Painting 3D Printed Parts: Priming (Includes Video)
Materials
These tools of the trade will help make priming your part simple.
Primer
Primer is a special type of paint that adheres strongly to the part and provides a uniform surface for paint to bond with. Different primers have different uses. A spray-on primer is the best way to paint your printed parts because it quickly covers a surface with an even coating. Brush-on primers are available, but they are tricky to work with and better for fine touch ups. For best results, choose a primer and paint that are plastic compatible and from the same brand. We like Krylon and Montana (though both are thick formulas), but nothing really compares to Tamiya brand model paint – it goes on extremely thinly and evenly, preserving delicate surface details.
Rotary Tool
Because sometimes you want to sand fast. With interchangeable bits, rotary tools offer a variety of options for sanding and polishing parts. Drum sanding bits quickly sand down supports, while steel wire brushes smooth surface marks. Rotary tools are rough, so you will still need sandpaper for a smooth finish. There are plenty of great brands: Dremel and Craftsman are popular in the states, Proxxon in Europe. To avoid scorching your part, turn down the RPMs to the minimum (usually 500-1000) and use a light touch.
Hand Files
Not as clumsy or as random as a palm sander. A more elegant tool…for a more civilized age.
One of the most simple yet effective tools, a hand file removes supports and sands down surfaces. Using a firm grip, you can remove marks with more control than with a rotary tool. Keep a wire brush on hand and clean the file’s teeth often (otherwise plastic and resin will gum up teel). Like a rotary tool, a hand file will leave a rough surface, so it’s best for removing the larger support marks.
Sand Paper
The most unglamourous tool in the shop, sandpaper has come light years in the last decade with the release of flexible sanding sheets. Available at home improvement stores, flexible sanding sheets last 15 times longer than paper ones. They don’t curl, puncture or crease.., and they hey can be used wet, which reduces dust and prevents buildup in the sanding tooth. Because they flex, they can easily reach small interior spaces and rounded surfaces.
Dust Removal
Even after wet sanding, some dust will remain. Remove buildup with water and a soft scrub brush (an old toothbrush works). For serious cleanup, an inexpensive sonicator can quickly remove fine particles caught in corners and cracks of a surface. If you work in an area with hard water, using deionized or distilled water will prevent spotting between painting.
Tack Cloth
Tack cloth is a soft, slightly sticky cotton cloth designed to remove remaining dust and leave a clean surface for painting. Let your model dry before using the tack cloth — the waxy surface does not work well with water.
Painting Block, Dowels & Drill
This simple trick will save you grief in the spray booth (we were excited when we saw this technique in a modelmaking how-to video by Adam Savage). By mounting your 3D print on a dowel (often you can use a preexisting hole in the part), you can quickly maneuver while spraying, allowing you to get to all sides and into the nooks and crannies of the part without creating any fingerprints. When you want to add an even coat to all sides of your model, this is pretty essential. We recommend ordering a variety of size of dowels. To minimize the hole size on a part, start with a small size and work your way up until the model feels firmly seated. Drill a corresponding hole in a block of wood or MDF and insert the part with the dowel – now you can keep the model hands free while spraying.
Safety Equipment
Spraypainting means working with airborne particulates and solvents, both of which pose health hazards. Remember to use a NIOSH approved respirator and work in a well ventilated workspace. While painting, wear nitrile gloves to avoid spraying paint on your hands and and also protect your model from fingerprints.
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