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Contents
What is the best thing to clean a muzzleloader with?
Hold the butt of the rifle firmly with one hand while pushing the ramrod, with cleaning jag and dry patch attached, down into the hot soapy water. Work the ramrod up and down quickly to suck the hot water up into the bore. This will help to flush out the fouling.
Should you clean a muzzleloader after every shot?
Do You Really Have to Clean the Barrel after Every Shot? Not if you are just shooting for fun, but if you want to shoot for accuracy, like when sighting in your gun or working up a load, then Yes! You really need to clean the barrel and breech plug after every shot (or every other shot).
Can you clean a muzzleloader with Hoppes?
Whatever you usually use on your centerfire rifles will work just fine. Don’t use any solvent made for muzzleloaders. I use Hoppes #9.
What dissolves black powder?
Black Powder Solvent
Due to its alkaline character, Ballistol is ideal for cleaning and maintaining black powder firearms. The residues from black powder in chambers and bores are acidic. Ballistol neutralizes and dissolves them.
How long does it take to clean a muzzleloader?
Final Thoughts. The whole process may seem a little overwhelming and counter intuitive. But rest assured, you can clean and prepare your muzzleloader for storage in about 20 minutes. And next time you’re headed to the range you can be certain your rifle will fire each and every time.
What happens if you don’t clean your muzzleloader?
Firing a muzzleloader leaves a corrosive residue inside the barrel that causes pitting and reduces accuracy. The buildup of residue, called fouling, also will make loading difficult.
How many times can you shoot a muzzleloader before you have to clean it?
I’m assuming you’re not wiping with a dry patch. I don’t clean between shots. Use a spit patch on the target range and go 30+ rounds with no issues.
How far can you shoot a deer with a muzzleloader?
For any ethical hunter, 200 yards is about the limit of ballistic and shooter performance for a modern muzzleloader.
Which of the following is used as a cleaning or maintenance tool for muzzleloading firearms?
Which of the following is used as a cleaning or maintenance tool for muzzleloading firearms? (A) or nipple wrench.
Can you use CLP on a muzzleloader?
But tests have subsequently shown Breakfree CLP to be an excellent metal protectant. When I finish cleaning a muzzleloader barrel, I run a dry patch, then a patch saturated with Breakfree CLP.
What should be used to clean your muzzleloader hunters Ed?
Always clean the muzzleloader at the end of a day of firing to prevent rapid rusting and pitting. Modern chemicals and products make cleaning black powder fouling easier. Unlike smokeless residue, black powder fouling is water-soluble. Always use mild, soapy water or products made specifically for black powder.
What is the most accurate muzzleloader bullet?
In fact, the 250gr PowerBelt AeroLite is by far the most accurate muzzleloader bullet I’ve ever shot out of my CVA Wolf and CVA Optima. These bullets also offer absolutely devastating terminal performance on deer sized game.
Which CVA muzzleloader is the best?
- Caliber: .50.
- Barrel Length: 30-inch nitride-treated Bergara Barrel.
- Ignition System: Inline, 209 primer.
- Weight: 7.6 pounds (rifle only)
Are traditions muzzleloaders any good?
Super lightweight and offering extra safety features, this muzzleloader is a still-hunter’s dream. And it comes at a bargain price! In recent years, Traditions has taken the lead on producing front-stuffers that are lighter and easier for hunters to use.
What is true about using a round ball for the projectile in a muzzleloader?
Round Ball: This is the traditional projectile used in the muzzleloader. Rapid loss of velocity and energy reduces their efficiency compared to the bullet. Hunting success relies more heavily on skills and proximity to the game. These projectiles require the use of lubricated cloth patches, which slows down loading.
How to Clean a Muzzleloader
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Solve Your Modern Muzzleloader Accuracy Problems
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Free Bad Advice Given while Learning to Shoot My Muzzleloader
Why Not Use Magnum Loads
Differences in Muzzleloader Barrels and Bullets
Why Not Use PowerBelt Bullets
Do You Really Have to Clean the Barrel after Every Shot
How To Shoot Muzzleloader Accurately
My Load for Thompson Center Encore
How to Clean Your CVA Muzzleloader – YouTube
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Cleaning BH209? | Rokslide Forum
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I just noticed the side of the jug says to only use their Montana Extreme solvent and not to use other solvents.. Is this…
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Attention Required! | Cloudflare
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How to Clean a Muzzleloader (Black Powder Rifle). : 4 Steps – Instructables
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By the way, muzzleloading w…
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Introduction How to Clean a Muzzleloader (Black Powder Rifle)
Step 1 Disassembly
Step 2 Clean Nipple Andor Breechplug
Step 3 Cleaning and Protecting Your Barrel
Step 4 Reassembly and Final Touches
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How to Clean a Muzzleloader
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Tips and Reasons for Cleaning Your Muzzleloader
Muzzleloader Cleaning Products
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how to clean a muzzleloader
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How to Clean a Muzzleloader
Quick Tips Use the jag and cleaning patch to clean the bore of your muzzleloader.
Clean the breech assembly with a stiff-bristled brush.
Clean the muzzleloader’s breech plug.
Clean the bore of the muzzleloader with hot soapy water.
Dry the bore with the jag and a dry patch.
Wipe the gun down with a little oil.
A muzzleloader is basically any firearm that is loaded from the muzzle end. In this category of firearm are many weapons, including mortars, cannons, muskets, matchlocks, wheellocks, snaplocks, flintlocks, caplocks, and more modern in-line closed breech muzzle-loaders, which is what I am using for this article today. My dad is an avid hunter, and with the recent disappointment of an unproductive regular firearm deer season, he decided to try his luck at muzzleloading this year. The muzzleloader season adds two more weeks to his overall hunting season. If this year proves unsuccessful, then perhaps next year he may try his hand at archery. That season goes for 3½ months.
This closed breech inline muzzleloader is made by Thompson/Center, which is owned by Smith & Wesson. This model is a newer model called the Omega Z5. It takes advantage of a new patented design called the swinging breech. It’s a pretty smart set-up. Give the trigger guard a stiff tug and it swings down, opening the breech and exposing the primer pocket. Then, once a primer is placed in position, the trigger guard and breech are swung back up and locked into place. OK, now to get back to the article. There are two places that you will clean your muzzleloader: in the field and at home. I have described the techniques for both below.
Steps to Field Clean a Muzzleloader
Use the jag and cleaning patch to clean the bore of your muzzleloader. Before cleaning the rifle make sure that is unloaded AND unprimed. Use a jag that is specifically made to fit in the bore of your rifle, which is dependent upon the caliber. Attach the jag to the ramrod by threading it on the tip. Soak a cleaning patch with bore solvent and lay it on top of the muzzle of the rifle. Push the jag down into the bore of the rifle. The jag will fit tightly down the barrel, dragging the patch with it. Move it up and down the bore several times to loosen up the fouling. Next, replace the wet patch with a dry patch to remove the rest of the fouling and dry the bore. Do this with dry patches until one comes out looking clean. Clean the breech assembly with a stiff-bristled brush.Look into the primer pocket and locate any fouling or carbonation that may have accumulated there. Use a stiff-bristled cleaning brush or toothbrush to scrub that stuff away from the primer pocket and breech plug. If needed, apply a little solvent to the brush to aid in removing stuck-on carbonation. Use a dry patch or cloth to dry the breech and remove any loosened junk. If the muzzleloader is excessively dirty, like to the point that field cleaning is not sufficient, then you should do a thorough cleaning.
Steps to Thoroughly Clean a Muzzleloader
Clean the muzzleloader’s breech plug. Make sure that the rifle is unloaded and unprimed. Swing the breech open by pushing the trigger guard down and forward. Use the breech plug wrench to remove the breech plug by turning it counterclockwise. Once removed, scrub the breech plug free of fouling by using a stiff-bristled brush and bore solvent. Also, scrub out the threads inside the bore where the breech plug screws in. Before replacing the breech plug, the make sure it is dry and well lubricated with anti-seize lubricant. Don’t replace it until you have finished cleaning the bore of the muzzleloader. Clean the bore of the muzzleloader with hot soapy water. With the breech plug removed, attach the cleaning jag to the ramrod. Get a bucket with ½ gallon of extremely hot soapy water in it. Place the muzzle of the rifle into the bucket of water. Hold the butt of the rifle firmly with one hand while pushing the ramrod, with cleaning jag and dry patch attached, down into the hot soapy water. Work the ramrod up and down quickly to suck the hot water up into the bore. This will help to flush out the fouling. Dry the bore with the jag and a dry patch. Once all the fouling is flushed out, wipe the barrel dry and push a few dry patches through the bore with the jag and ramrod. Once the bore is dry, push a lightly oiled patch through to ensure that the barrel doesn’t rust up while the muzzleloader is stored. Be careful to not excessively oil the bore, as it can cause blockages. Look down the bore while holding it up to a light to make sure there aren’t any oil drips inside. Wipe the gun down with a little oil. The final step is to wipe down the ramrod, jag, and rest of the rifle with a lightly oiled, lint-free cloth. This will keep the gun from rusting while it’s stored. Replace the breech plug once it’s cleaned, making sure to apply some anti-seize lubricant to the threads before carefully rethreading it into the breech. Also, be careful not to cross thread it. Lastly, using a straw tip applicator, squeeze some moisture-displacing oil into the firing pin. Then test to make sure everything works.
Tips and Reasons for Cleaning Your Muzzleloader
Always make sure your muzzleloader is both UNLOADED and UNPRIMED before cleaning it.
When lightly lubricating your weapon, don’t use a heavy grease or oil. In cold climates it can congeal and slow or altogether stop your hammer from seating.
After scrubbing the barrel with hot soapy water, make sure it is completely dry before applying a light oil to the bore.
Make sure the breech plug threads are meshing properly before screwing the breech plug in. Improperly installed breech plugs may kill you.
In order for your muzzleloader to work properly, it must be properly cleaned.
Field cleaning as part of a regiment of maintenance should be performed each day after shooting has finished.
Thorough cleaning should be done after the season and before you store your rifle for extended periods of time.
Clean your muzzleloader in a well-ventilated area.
Muzzleloader Cleaning Products
Black powder bore solvent.Whether you use black powder or Pyrodex, this bore solvent is supposed to help remove it better than the regular bore solvent. It also helps removes plastic, copper, and lead deposits.
Foaming bore cleaner is an alternative to cleaning with hot water and bore solvent. Just spray it in the bore, let stand one hour, and then wipe clean. You will still need to lightly oil the barrel to prevent rust. You can get Thompson Center Arms T17 Foaming Bore Cleaner from Amazon.
Breech plug cleaner. Once you remove your breech plug, just drop it into the breech plug cleaner container, screw the top back on, and give it a few shakes. Then wipe the breech plug clean.
Solve Your Modern Muzzleloader Accuracy Problems
When I first bought my modern inline muzzleloader, I relied on the advice of too many people that didn’t know what they were talking about. I recognize all the B.S. now, but back then I was glad for any advice I could get. That bad advice set me back many months before I learned how to clean, load and shoot accurately.
I was not the only beginning muzzleloader to be given bad advice. This week, I watched two young men trying to shoot their new muzzleloaders.
I say trying, because I no longer consider 6 inch groups at 50 yards to be getting the job done.
Most modern muzzleloaders should be capable of shooting one inch groups at 100 yards even if every shooter is not. They were having problems because they had been given some of the same bad advice I was given.
What kind of bad advice was I given? Here are a few examples:
Free Bad Advice Given while Learning to Shoot My Muzzleloader
Always use magnum loads (150 grains) in magnum gun
Use Power Belt bullets because they load easy
Don’t need to clean barrel after each shot
If you’re not laughing at me by now, then you are the person I wrote this post for and I can help you shoot more accurately.
Want another laugh at my expense?
I also wasted several weeks trying to learn how to “season” my barrel like a cast iron frying pan. Pure non-sense, but back to the problem at hand – achieving 1 inch accuracy with your muzzleloader.
Why Not Use Magnum Loads?
So, why shouldn’t we use the maximum 150 grain loads if our guns can handle the stress? Stands to reason that maximum load creates maximum velocity, which creates a flatter trajectory. Flat trajectories and increased energy at the point of impact are usually good characteristics for hunting.
For one reason, there are many muzzleloaders that are not capable of shooting anything close to “magnum” loads. Do not test any loads of modern powder in your muzzleloader unless you are certain it can withstand the pressures.
For another reason, even mass produced modern guns can have their own peculiarities. Some guns shoot best with different bullets and different amounts of powder. It’s your job to discover that combination and it requires systematic testing to discover the best combination.
Differences in Muzzleloader Barrels and Bullets
For starters, different manufacturers of 50 cal barrels may have different sized barrels. Thompson Center (TC) barrels are produced very consistently at 0.500 inches. Savage barrels are consistently 0.501 and Knight rifles are consistently 0.502 inches. Other brands may not be consistent from one gun to the next.
Also, the 45 caliber bullets we use in our 50 cal muzzleloaders are not all exactly 0.45 inches. Hornady bullets actually measure 0.452 inches, Barnes bullets are 0.451 and Sierra bullets are 0.4515 inches. The sabots that go with these bullets also come in different thickness, so it should be obvious that different barrels will perform better with different bullet and sabot combinations because they fit differently. I have learned that Barnes T-EZ muzzleloader bullets shoot best in my TC Pro Hunter.
Why Not Use PowerBelt Bullets?
What about those Powerbelt bullets? There are so easy to load. Did the salesman at the sporting goods store lie to me? No, Powerbelt bullets probably worked well for him in his muzzleloader, but they did not work well in my TC encore. I could never shoot better than 3 inch groups with Powerbelts (245 or 295 grain Aerotip) at 100 yards. Plus, later I learned that Powerbelts have poor ballistic coefficients and very poor weight retention when compared to other bullets. Look for a post in the future about making fishing sinkers out of Powerbelt bullets.
Do You Really Have to Clean the Barrel after Every Shot?
Not if you are just shooting for fun, but if you want to shoot for accuracy, like when sighting in your gun or working up a load, then Yes! You really need to clean the barrel and breech plug after every shot (or every other shot).
NOTE: I actually shoot two times before cleaning. Once with the clean barrel at one target and once with the dirty barrel at a second target. I use powder for my first clean barrel shot and reload with pellets for a quick second shot. Why not practice as if we were hunting? If you missed while hunting, you would have to reload quickly and take a second shot from a dirty barrel.
Consistent shooting requires consistent loading and cleaning. How consistent can the load be if you push all that left over crud down on top of the powder when you seat the bullet? Crud gets mixed with the powder and crud increases the distance of the bullet from the spark. Also, how can the bullet exit the barrel consistently when sometimes it’s clean, sometimes its a little dirty and sometimes it’s real dirty?
Also ever considered the inconsistency of using pellets that have chips missing? And, does it make a difference if you sometimes crush the pellets when ramming them down the barrel?
I’ve read articles claiming the bore will be more consistent if you don’t swab after each shot because swabbing causes inconsistencies. I agree that inconsistent swabbing can be a problem, but consistent swabbing, lubing and drying has to create a more consistent barrel than not swabbing. Anyway, I know what has worked for me and that is to clean the barrel and the breech plug after each shot.
I suggest that you try it both ways and see what you think. Which method gives you the smallest groups?
How To Shoot Muzzleloader Accurately
So, how did I escape from the dark side and get back on the right path? It is a very simple process, but requires steps.
Consistent Cleaning Consistent Loading Consistent Shooting Systematic Testing of powder loads and bullets
Consistent cleaning and loading are simple tasks, but require organization and discipline. Shooting is a perishable skill that we all have to practice constantly to stay proficient. I suggest that while sighting in your muzzleloader or while testing to find the best load for your gun, that you use a bipod, sand bags or a bench rest rests to remove as much of the shooter variation as possible.
My Load for Thompson Center Encore
For mule deer, the most accurate load for my TC Encore is a 250 grain Barnes T-EZ sabot and bullet with 95 grains of Pyrodex Select Powder. I use Federal or Remington 209 primers. Nothing fancy, but it works for me.
For elk, I use a 290 grain Barnes T-EZ sabot and bullet with 120 grains of Pyrodex Select Powder .
For a second shots during practice and in hunting situations, I use 100 grains of Pyrodex Pellets with the 250 grain Barnes T-EZ bullet and 110 or 120 grains with the 290 grain Barnes T-EZ bullet. (110 grains = 50+30+30; 120 grains = 4 X 30).
I have written several articles on muzzleloader accuracy, muzzleloader bullets and systematic load testing: (Find The Right Bullet for Your Rifle) and (Are 6 inch Groups Good Enough for You?).
Don’t know why you missed that deer or elk with your muzzleloader? It might have something to do with those 6 inch groups at the range that automatically turn into 12 inch groups (or worse) in the field.
I suppose I am like a reformed smoker in a way… Now that I know modern inline rifles can shoot tight groups, it drives me crazy to see people that are satisfied with less, especially if they plan to wildly lob those bullets at deer and elk.
I’ve written a book about learning to shoot a muzzleloader accurately. Learn more about my book: Modern Inline Muzzleloader Guide to Loading, Shooting & Cleaning for Accuracy where I share the bad information I was given, the mistakes I made and the valuable tips I learned along the way.
Cleaning BH209?
Any old regular rifle cleaning solvent will do but like what was said earlier you don’t need or want to clean every couple of shots. I’ve shot well over sixty rounds in one session without cleaning . After about the third shot it reaches a dirty level and just stays there. You do need to clean it when you are done shooting because to make it a legal black powder substitute they have to leave some sulfur in it which will eat up your barrel. Shoots more accurate if you weigh charges rather than use a volume measure. Makes a little difference not a big one.
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