Top 27 How To Clean A Weber Carburetor Top 110 Best Answers

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Contents

How do I know which Weber carburetor I have?

Weber model numbers are always stamped on the carburetor body. They always begin with a 2-digit number (or a pair of 2-digit numbers separated by a slash) followed by three or four letters. There may or may not be more numbers and/or letters after that.

Are Weber carburetors still made?

Genuine Weber carburetors were produced in Bologna, Italy, up until 1992, when production was transferred to Madrid, Spain, where they continue to be made today.

Are Weber carburetors any good?

Weber carburetors might not be the induction of choice for a modern, high-tech, race engine. But remarkably, they are still the induction system of choice for any Sixties-era sports or race car that represented the “high-water mark” in racing and performance during the era, if you want authenticity.

What is a Weber 32 36 carb?

Perfect for stock or mild performance engines, the Weber 32/36 DGV carb is a progressive down-draft carburetor with counter-clockwise rotation. As a progressive carb it operates as a one barrel most of the time, with the second barrel only opening when more power is needed, or under wide open throttle.

How long do Weber burners last?

So, how long do Weber gas grills last? The average lifespan of a Weber gas grill is between 3 and 10 years, depending on how frequently you use them, what model of gas grill you have purchased, what type of food and in how much quantity of food you cook on your gas grill, how much you take of your Weber gas grill.

What is a Weber 32 36 carb?

What does Dcoe stand for Weber?

Weber carburetors are sold for both street and off-road use, with the twin-choke sidedraft DCOE (Doppio Corpo Orizzontale E; “Double-Body Horizontal E“) being the most common one. They are sold in what is referred to as a Weber conversion kit.

How to disassemble and clean a Weber 32/36 carburetor.

How to disassemble and clean a Weber 32/36 carburetor. – YouTube

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Table of Contents:

Cleaning the Weber Carburetor

Vapor Blasting your Weber Carburetor

Throttle Shafts

Measuring the Jets

Tools used in this tutorial

Up Next Putting your Carburetor back together

Weber Carburetor Identification and Model Numbers

Which Weber Carburetor do I have?

Weber has made dozens of different models of carburetors throughout the years.

Unfortunately — unlike some other brands — many Weber carburetors are made up almost entirely of unique parts that are not used by any other model. Very few parts interchange from one model to another, and exactly zero parts were used on every Weber carburetor model. That means that you must accurately identify which carburetor model you have before you can order jets or replacement parts.

That’s easy, mine has a tag (or a sticker) on it with a 6-digit number!

That is not a Weber model number. Tags and stickers are generally used by aftermarket companies (and even OEM automakers) to put their own part number on the carburetor, and we have no way to cross-reference your number to a Weber model. Weber model numbers are always stamped on the carburetor body. They always begin with a 2-digit number (or a pair of 2-digit numbers separated by a slash) followed by three or four letters. There may or may not be more numbers and/or letters after that.

Where is the model number on my Weber carb?

On downdraft carburetors, Weber stamps the carburetor model number on the side of the base flange. Sidedraft carburetors have the model number stamped on the top, outboard of the jet cover.

Weber Downdraft Carburetor Weber Sidedraft Carburetor 32/36 DGV 5A 48 DCO 23P

Note that the stamp on the downdraft may be facing the engine. You may need a flashlight and a mirror to see it. Click either photo to enlarge.

Weber model number breakdown

The model number prefix is a 2-digit number that refers to the diameter of the throttle plate(s) in millimeters. (If the prefix is a pair of 2-digit numbers separated by a slash, the first number refers to the primary throttle and the second number to the secondary.) This number alone will not tell us which carburetor you have.

The main part of the model number is a 3 or 4 letter code that indicates the carburetor design. This is where it gets confusing. Each letter is a one-letter abbreviation for a word, but the words are all Italian. Worse, Weber sometimes used the same one-letter abbreviation for two different words. And just to be quaint, they never published a decoder table. The good news is that it doesn’t really matter what the letters mean because the unique combination of numbers and letters will positively identify what the carburetor is.

Optional suffixes take the form of numbers or numbers and letters. This usually indicates a “variant”, generally a carburetor that was set up for a specific application. The factory jetting may be different, or a linkage might be swapped from one side to the other. (The Alfa Romeo Sprint Veloce came with a pair of “40 DCOE 2” model carburetors, but the Spider Veloce had two “40 DCOE 32” model carbs. The difference in this case is in the factory jetting.)

One notable exception to the suffix rule is the IDA family. 46 IDA is a 2-barrel downdraft carburetor, but add a “3” suffix (46 IDA 3) and you’re looking at a 3-barrel downdraft carburetor which not only has an entirely different body, it even uses different jets!

Common Weber Carburetor Models

Here are a few of the Weber carburetor models we deal with most frequently. Suffixes in parentheses are not critical and only indicate minor tweaks.

Model Number Common Name Notes 32/36 DGV (5A) DGV Progressive throttles, Manual choke

(standard for Formula Ford 1600, Formula Ford 2000, and Sports 2000) 32/36 DGAV DGV Automatic choke (A = Aqua; water-operated) 32/36 DGEV DGV Automatic choke (E = Electrically-operated) 32/36 DFAV, 32/36 DFEV DFV Should be a mirror-image of DGV series,

but only the jets interchange!* 38/38 DGAS, 38/38 DGES DGAS Synchronous throttles, otherwise a DGV

(why call out the same throttle size twice??) 40 DCOE, 45 DCOE, 48 DCO, 50 DCO, 55 DCOE DCOE Dual-throat sidedraft. E used to indicate a trapezoidal mount. The E has largely been dropped but the trapezoid remains. 46 IDA, 48 IDA IDA (dual) Dual-throat downdraft 40 IDA 3, 46 IDA 3 IDA (triple) 3-throat downdraft specifically for Porsche flat-6

(nothing interchanges with IDA dual!) 40 IDF, 44 IDF IDF Dual-throat downdraft

* Even better, the DGV body and top plate castings are symmetrical. Weber could have simply moved the fuel inlet fitting, accelerator pump, and linkage to the other side. Instead, they used an entirely different top plate. The DGV and DFV can’t even use the same air filters.

The Most Important Part, Cleaning Your Weber Three-Barrel Carburetor.

The most important part of your Weber Carburetor rebuild is cleaning. But what is the most important part of the cleaning? It is cleaning out the fuel passageways, or galleries. Surface cleaning is great but opening up and chasing down the galleries is essential.

In this lesson we cover the longest and most important job of all, cleaning the carburetors.

Cleaning is the most important part of rebuilding your Webers

Cleaning the Weber Carburetor

If you have not checked out our Carburetor Teardown, please catch up. After teardown, you should have two carburetor bodies with no parts inside.

Using a chemical dip is not really effective when working with an old and corroded carburetor. For us, carburetor cleaning is best achieved by blasting. Water or vapor blasting is the best, but all blasting has its pluses and its drawbacks.

Hours well spent with the wet blast cabinet

You need to use the correct materials and techniques when blasting so you do not damage your carburetor bodies. Many of you will stop right here and say that you can never remove all the blast media. This may be true if you do not refer back to our number one tip, Gallery Plug Removal!

Please note, we have left our studs in place for easy blasting. We will remove them after cleaning and before the carburetor bodies are sent out for color.

Removing the Gallery Plugs

The fuel travels through the carburetor passageways and they can become blocked with corrosion and old fuel.

We use a 2.5mm drill bit to drill into the soft lead plug by hand. We pull all the lead plugs from the front and top. The brass plugs on the side passageways are generally ok to leave and only need to be pulled on very corroded sets.

Gallery plugs on the front passageways

Be careful when drilling and prying out the lead plugs. We will not be putting the plugs back in until after the coloration process. Catch this process in Reassembly Part One.

Cleaning the Cast Zinc Parts

In our first lesson, we separated our carburetor parts into like materials piles. The accelerator pump housings and covers, the auxiliary venturies, plus the accelerator pump nozzles, are made of cast zinc. We clean these parts in the vapor blaster, and then they go in the ceramic polisher. Blasting opens the pores and polishing closes the pores in the metal.

We wire these parts together to make it easier to blast them. They stay wired in the ceramic polisher to not lose them.

Cleaning the Brass Parts

Over the years we have tried many different methods for cleaning brass. We have moved to wet polishing as opposed to dry polishing years ago. The wet formula for the tumbler is water, stainless-steel bits, Lemi Shine, and dawn dish soap.

The steel media is very small, and caution has to be taken with the accelerator pump jets, and other holes. A check valve has a hole that somehow the steel pieces vibrate into. We do not have to wire the small brass parts together, as you can just use a tumbler separator or a magnet to remove the brass from the polishing bath.

Our Brass Cleaning Set Up

The brass will need to tumble for an hour to two. Do not over tumble as the threads on the brass parts can become damaged. If you do damage the threads, you can chase them with dies and taps.

How to Clean and Test the floats

When it comes to cleaning the carburetor floats you cannot blast them. The brass floats are quite fragile and may already have damage. Well-meaning people that squirt compressed air down the vent tubes, hoping to unblock a needle and seat, are responsible for many a crushed float.

Brass floats are fragile and must be cleaned by hand

To clean the floats, use Dawn dish soap and water with a Scotch-Bright pad to gently scrub and polish the floats. You can see if they are useable during this cleaning, if they bubble when underwater, they are out. Another way to check the floats is to weigh them.

Floats have the weight stamped on them, 25.5 grams. They should weigh one gram on either side to be useable. The new solid floats are a little lighter and may behave a little slower in the carburetor, but they are a great replacement for a damaged brass float.

We replace all brass floats to be on the safe side. Brass ages, and floats age too, repairing a seam can add too much weight to the float. Nine times out of 10 we replace.

Carburetor Chokes and cleaning them

Carburetor chokes are a cast aluminum. The aluminum can have air pockets already in them from casting. Blasting can blow up these inconsistencies like blisters. You must take more care and more distance with the blast nozzle when blasting the chokes.

Care must be taken when cleaning a choke

If you have a modified choke, you need to inspect how it was done. If there is a large flat surface area inside the choke don’t bother cleaning it. You will need to replace a choke that has been incorrectly modified. The choke is measured at the smallest part across.

After blasting the chokes are added to the ceramic polisher.

Steel Parts

Steel parts have plating for a reason. The reason is not just for looks. Even though re-plated parts look fantastic, the plating is there to protect from corrosion. If you just blast your steel parts and put them back into use, they will rust in a very short time.

Replacing steel parts has become cheaper than re-plating them

We replace a lot of steel parts as a matter of fact, like all the washers and nuts. Special parts like the arms, pump lever, pivot screws, and choke holding screws can be sent to re-plate. Unless you have a lot of other parts to send to replate, it may be more economical to just buy new parts. Re-plating used to be a lot cheaper, but with the pressures on platers, the cost has gone up.

Vapor Blasting your Weber Carburetor

In our Vapor blaster, we use a fine glass bead. Do not use aluminum oxide, it is too aggressive for the Weber carburetor. Take care even with a gentler glass bead. Do not blast too close to the gasket surfaces.

It will take time in the blaster to get all the nooks and crannies. Keep at it, and make sure you rinse well. Even though this is not the final clean, you do not want media drying in the passageways.

Throttle Shafts

We start the carburetor inspection with our throttle shafts. Weber three-barrel carburetors have an 8mm throttle shaft. Discard a shaft that measures at 7.95mm or less or if it has heavy scoring. The Teflon bushing helps to preserve the throttle shafts.

Measuring the throttle shafts after cleaning

On this set, the short shafts were both usable. We replace the long shafts. Mostly it is the throttle shaft that wears, not the carburetor body. If you have damage to the body you can oversize the throttle shaft and ream the body to suit the new shaft.

Complete any machine work on the carburetor bodies before color. There is an exception for thread repairs. If you time sert with a steel insert, it will not survive the coloration process.

Measuring the Jets

Taking the time to inspect the brass jetting is essential. Pin fitting the jets will let you know if the jets are the size they are marked. The jetting must also be the same size as each other. If there is any inconsistencies, or the jet is damaged, it is better to replace the jet.

Just like the choke, drilling jet changes how the jet flows. So if you find a drilled jet, change it for a new jet.

From drilling the galleries to checking the throttle shafts and carburetor bodies, we use a wide range of tools.

Mitutoyo 293-340-30 Digital Micrometer, Inch/Metric, Ratchet Stop, 0-1″ (0-25.4mm) Range, 0.00005″ (0.001mm) Resolution, +/-0.00005″ Accuracy, Meets IP65 Specifications $149.00 Buy on Amazon Mitutoyo 293-340-30 Digital Micrometer, Inch/Metric, Ratchet Stop, 0-1″ (0-25.4mm) Range, 0.00005″ (0.001mm) Resolution, +/-0.00005″ Accuracy, Meets IP65 Specifications $149.00 Buy on Amazon

Up Next, Putting your Carburetor back together.

It was a lot of work to clean and measure the weber three-barrel carburetor. Now the bodies head out for color and we get our new parts together. Next up is the re-assembly and we start with the gallery plugs we removed and the throttle plates.

For our series the reassembly is three lessons.

BEST CLEANER FOR WEBER BODY CASTINGS? : Fuel System / Carbs

Post by: StressCraxx » Sun Dec 02, 2012 11:00 pm

The ultrasonic cleaners are pretty good for outside surfaces. The sound agitates the chemical and cleans pretty well. We use them at work. They use a butyl ethanol detergent. I don’t think the UT cleaners are very effective deep down in the passages like caustic parts dip was.

The old “parts dip” and “carb dip” is sodium hydroxide, “caustic soda” is another term. The chemical companies that sold it put a layer of oil on top so the stench would not be so overwhelming when you opened it. Its really dangerous stuff for the average person. It can cause serious chemical burns, particularly to mucous membrane. So you never want to get splashed in the mouth, nose or eyes with it. The chemical burns are hideous and take years to heal. Do an MSDS search on sodium hydroxide and you will understand. You should wear nitrile gloves, rubber apron, rubber boots, goggles/faceshield. I have seen good work boots ruined in minutes with that stuff. Its hazardous waste when you are done too. We can no longer buy it here in Kalifornia. The replacement products are pretty worthless.

I get the objections to abrasive blasting. Thats why I brought up trying it on an old zinc part, with varying air pressure. The glass bead/powder that the Porsche/Weber guy uses is extremely fine and he uses lower air pressure so it doesn’t harm the metal.

Walnut shells are very soft. We used walnut shells once a week to clean the compressor section of a gas turbine running at full power. At the 3 year inspection there was no damage to the blades. When you are done, wash everything thoroughly.

All said and done, use caution and do the research. Your results may vary.

There is no cure for Lotus, only treatment.

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Top 27 How To Clean A Weber Carburetor Top 110 Best Answers

How do I know which Weber carburetor I have?

Are Weber carburetors still made?

Are Weber carburetors any good?

What is a Weber 32 36 carb?

How long do Weber burners last?

What is a Weber 32 36 carb?

What does Dcoe stand for Weber?

How to disassemble and clean a Weber 32/36 carburetor. – YouTube

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BEST CLEANER FOR WEBER BODY CASTINGS? : Fuel System / Carbs – Page 2 by LotusElan.net

Clean Weber Carburetor Bodies? – Pelican Parts Forums

Cleaning and rebuilding the Weber 32/36 DGV, DGEV and DGAV carburetor | MotoFaction

How To Clean Weber Carburetor – How To

Weber Carburetor Identification and Model Numbers

The Most Important Part, Cleaning Your Weber Three-Barrel Carburetor.

BEST CLEANER FOR WEBER BODY CASTINGS? : Fuel System / Carbs

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