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Contents
Does Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 work with GarageBand?
The best audio interface for beginners to Garageband is the Focusrite Scarlett 2i2, which is definitely the most suggested as well. The second best audio interface for Garageband, in my opinion, is the iRig Pro I/O, which is not only for guitars but also for microphones.
Do I need preamp for GarageBand?
With your pedalboard going directly into the USB interface, and ultimately GarageBand, you’ll need to treat GarageBand as your final power amp. This means that the pedalboard is in a kind of preamp role, with the potential to send enough gain into GarageBand to create unwanted noise or even distortion.
Does Scarlett 2i2 work with iPad?
Scarlett Solo and Scarlett 2i2 can be used with USB-C iPad Pro devices in fully mobile, bus-powered mode over several hours. For permanent situations, such as home studio setups, we recommend powered operation using an appropriate USB-C hub.
What interface do I need for GarageBand?
You will need an audio interface with +48V phantom power if you want to use it with condenser microphones. It will ensure the unit is giving your condenser mic the proper power.
How do I connect my Scarlett 2i2 to my iPad?
- Connect the USB-C to A adapter to your iPad.
- Connect the USB-A end of your Scarlett USB cable to the USB-C to A adapter.
- Connect the USB-C end of your Scarlett USB cable to your Scarlett audio interface.
- Connect the appropriate cables into the back’s of your monitors.
How do I connect my Scarlett solo focusrite to my Mac?
- To connect your Scarlett 2i2 to your MacBook Pro. …
- 1) Connect your USB-to-USB-C Adapter. …
- 1) Click on System Preferences.
- 2) Choose “Sound.”
- 3) Choose Scarlett 2i2 for your input and output, depending on your needs.
- 1) Scarlett 2i2 (on Amazon)
How do I record directly on GarageBand?
- Tap the Record button in the control bar.
- Play, sing, or make sound into the microphone.
- When you are finish, tap the Play button in the control bar to stop recording. Tap the Play button again to hear your recording.
How do I connect my Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 to my iPad?
- Connect the USB-C to A adapter to your iPad.
- Connect the USB-A end of your Scarlett USB cable to the USB-C to A adapter.
- Connect the USB-C end of your Scarlett USB cable to your Scarlett audio interface.
- Connect the appropriate cables into the back’s of your monitors.
How do you use a tuner in GarageBand?
GarageBand for Mac: Select the header for the track you want to play for the tuner. Click the solo button in the track header so you’ll hear only that track. Click the Tuner button in the control bar (see Figure 14). Play the part you’ve already recorded, so the Tuner will hear the output.
Easy to follow GarageBand Tutorial with Focusrite Scarlett studio – YouTube
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The Definitive Guide to Audio Interfaces for Garageband – Producer Society
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How To Connect Your Recording Gear To GarageBand (GarageBand Tutorial) – YouTube
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How To Connect Your Recording Gear To GarageBand – YouTube
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Security check
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How to Use the Scarlett 2i2 With GarageBand [iOS/macOS] – Producer Society
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How to Use the Scarlett Audio Interface With GarageBand macOS
How to Use the Scarlett Audio Interface With GarageBand iOS
Why Can’t I Hear When Recording With GarageBand and My Scarlett
Important Things to Note About the Scarlett Series & GarageBand
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Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 not working into Mac (garageband) : audioengineering
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The Definitive Guide to Audio Interfaces for Garageband – Producer Society
In this article today, I’m going to show you the two best interfaces for Garageband users, as well as offer an explanation of all their usual functions, including what those confusing specifications actually mean.
The best audio interface for beginners to Garageband is the Focusrite Scarlett 2i2, which is definitely the most suggested as well.
The second best audio interface for Garageband, in my opinion, is the iRig Pro I/O, which is not only for guitars but also for microphones.
The Scarlett 2i2 has more than one port/channel, which means you can use it for a microphone as well as another instrument at the same time. The iRig Pro I/O is more for taking on the road.
By the way, I’m always on the lookout for deals in the music industry (there’s usually something if you know where to look). Right now, there are 3 deals that stick out to me
What Is An Audio Interface And What Does It Do?
In layman’s terms, an audio interface is the piece of equipment that – through the conversion of analog to digital information – allows us to hook up all of our musical gear to our computer.
An audio interface like the Scarlett 2i2 (from Amazon) turns regular sound into a form of information that the computer can process, and it can also turn digital information into a sound capable of being heard by the human ear.
It acts literally as an interface between the sound and the computer. Or, in other words, it’s as if the audio interface is translating the soundwaves into a language the computer can understand.
The vast majority of computers out there come with an in-built digital audio interface that translates digital information into sound, moreover, some of the better models like this MacBook Pro from Amazon have better in-built audio interfaces than others.
This is called a soundcard, and an audio interface is like an external soundcard. This is what allows the computer to play music through Music/iTunes and other music playing platforms. Universal Audio’s Apollo Twin (again from Amazon) is a great example of a professional quality soundcard.
Before diving into my favorite interfaces for Garageband, let’s talk about the differences between Analog and Digital soundwaves, which will help illuminate why they’re important as well as guide you in your purchase of the right product.
Understanding Audio Interfaces – Analog Versus Digital
The primary difference between Analog and Digital is that Analog recording is a continuous wave format recorded by some kind of electrical or mechanical equipment.
Digital recordings are recordings that are broke up into data packages processable by a computer.
Why Do I Need An Audio Interface?
Music producers and musicians, and more generally, people who work with sound a lot, will eventually come to a point where they need a higher-quality device to increase the quality of the computer’s sound.
Moreover, as I explained in my guide on recording acoustic guitars, to record external instruments and other sounds, an audio interface is essential.
A quality audio interface is crucial for music producers, musicians, and audio engineers because the average soundcard in a computer simply doesn’t cut it.
An audio interface is important because it not only performs the crucial function of translating sounds so the computer can actually play it back in a manner audible to the human ear but also to increase the possibilities when it comes to our set-up.
For instance, with more outputs and inputs, we can greatly increase just how much can be done in our home recording studio.
As I mentioned above, we’re going to explain the specifications and functions of the average audio interface, as well as some of the confusing terminology.
1) Focusrite Scarlett 2i2
Click the link here to check the price on Amazon.
One of my greatest pet peeves when it comes to buying products is how it’s actually built. Many products nowadays seem like they’re not built to last because they’re often made out of cheap plastic.
However, with Focusrite products, they’re always well-built and they seem as though attention and consideration have gone into their product’s construction.
I have a Focusrite Saffire 6USB which is the exact same way. The 6USB is made entirely of hard metal and it has lasted me for a little over a decade. It still works, by the way.
What Comes With The Focusrite Scarlett 2i2
In terms of what comes in the box with it, you get the USB-C to USB-A Cable.
You also get Pro Tools one, which includes hundreds of different instruments as well as loops.
Ableton Live. Ableton Live is a digital audio workstation, that like Pro Tools and other DAWs, comes with effects, instruments, sequencers, arpeggiators, etc.
The difference between Ableton Live and other DAWs is that it’s meant for live performances and can be synchronized with lighting systems and so on. I’ve never used it before but I’ve heard it’s great for performers.
Soft tube, which are plug-ins created by Focusrite, including reverb, delay, and distortion.
Focusrite’s Red Plug-in Suite, which includes an EQ as well as a compressor.
And that’s about it.
All of the other stuff that you can get is downloadable from Focusrite on their website.
As I mentioned above, Focusrite’s products are typically very-well built. In this case, it’s made out of a red aluminum housing, and then the front and back of it are made out of plastic.
The knobs and the dials have a very sturdy feel to them, so you don’t have to worry about them falling off or breaking within just a few weeks, months, or even years, as long as you’re careful with it.
Moreover, the buttons have a tactile feel to them. In other words, when you’ve pushed the button, it actually clicks and you know that you’ve pressed it and there’s no confusion as to whether it’s turned on or not.
On the front of the machine, it has two separate channels with the XLR Jack as well as the 1/4 inch input.
An XLR input and output are connectors that are meant for professional audio recording equipment. They typically have between three and seven prongs on them.
They’re known for being “balanced,” and not as susceptible to signal interference. Many cameras and microphones employ an XLR cable like this one from Amazon.
In comparison to a regular jack connection, which is usually unbalanced, the cables are a single prong, for instance, a headphone ‘jack.’
The “Gain” dial flashes red when you’ve turned the gain up too much. If you’re using too much, the interface lets you know. When it’s clipping, it turns red, and when it’s green, it stays a nice soft Green color.
They also have the “Instrument” button which allows you to switch from the line-level and the instrument level whenever you’re using a 1/4 input jack.
Before continuing, let’s unpack the difference between Instrument and Line Level.
Instrument Level refers to any signal that is created by an instrument, but it’s most commonly used to describe the signals coming from a bass guitar or a guitar.
The power of an Instrument’s signal is typically lower than the signal generated by a microphone.
To increase the strength of the signal up to line level, a preamp is typically needed.
Line Level, on the other hand, describes what are the highest level signals. It is the signal that flows through the recording system after it’s passed through the preamplifier stage, but before the amplifier which gives power to the speakers.
I also emailed Focusrite about it and here was their response:
The Scarlett 2i2 also has the “Air” button, which is a new feature that wasn’t on my old 6USB. The “Air” button is a higher-end circuit that’s commonly a part of their higher-end products.
According to Focusrite’s page, the “Air” button emulate certain characteristics of an analog recording.
Their website explains the “Air” function in a very confusing way, but essentially, its purpose is to mimic a classic analog-style recording which has more “air and clarity.”
I also reached out to Focusrite and asked them what the button does and how it works, and here’s what they said.
It also comes with the 48V Phantom Power button to turn it on and off, in addition to the Direct Monitoring button.
The idea behind Phantom Power is to send power to some microphones that need it. It’s used to either drive active circuitry or to activate the plates within a condenser microphone (my personal favorite right now is the AT2021 from Amazon).
In other words, some microphones need phantom power – an alternative source of power – and therefore, this audio interface provides that.
As it was just stated, a condenser microphone needs Phantom Power whereas a Dynamic Microphone does not. Ribbon mics apparently can be damaged by the addition of phantom power.
The purpose of the Direct Monitoring allows you to, not only change between on and off if you want to listen while you’re singing (learn to sing with Singorama), but it also switches between Mono and Stereo.
The Monitoring button is a nice big dial and it takes up the most space on the interface.
It also has the Headphone Volume control for when you’re listening with headphones, along with the 1/4 inch headphones input.
On the back of it, the Focusrite 2i2 comes with a USB-C port that way you can hook it up to other devices, in addition to the balanced left and right monitor outputs.
An unbalanced cable usually has just two connectors and two conductors each, whereas a balanced cable has three prongs. An unbalanced cable would be a guitar cable, and a balanced cable would be that of a microphone.
As it was just stated, a cable that carries an unbalanced signal typically has two wires, a ground, and a signal.
Unbalanced cables can often pick up noise as the signal travels through the cable, so for that reason, they’re typically used for short distances, like the guitar cable mentioned above. The idea behind the cable being short is that it picks up less noise.
The difference between a balanced and unbalanced cable is that the balanced one has a ground wire, and it also comes with two identical versions of the same audio signal.
One is usually described as “hot” while the other is referred to as “cold” – positive and negative respectively.
On account of the fact that one is positively charged and the other is negatively charged, they end up canceling each other out. This is also called “reverse polarity.”
The hot and cold signals travel to the end of the cable and because they’re identical, they end up canceling each other out, except the one with the noise attached to it is the one that’s canceled.
This is where the useful feature comes in: if the cable picks up undesirable sounds during its travel, when the polarity is reversed at the end, the noise that comes along with it is canceled out on account of the polarity of the cold signal matching the hot.
This is called “common-mode rejection.”
In other words, both signal wires, the hot and cold, carry the same “noise,” so to speak, and because they’re similar to each other, they end up canceling each other out. The effect of this is a noise-free cable.
Additionally, balanced signals have two synchronized signals, therefore, they tend to be much louder than unbalanced signals.
On the other hand, a cable with just a signal and a ground wire is an unbalanced cable.
The signal wire acts as a transportation device for the signal. The ground wire is for the sake of reference for the signal wire, but it also has the unintended consequence of accumulating undesirable sounds.
Due to the lack of the two wires that are hot and cold, there is no canceling of the undesirable sounds in an unbalanced cable, unlike the balanced cable.
I hope this illustrated what is meant by balanced and unbalanced, but let’s move on.
The balanced outputs on the back of the Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 are meant for speakers, for instance, the left speaker and the right speaker.
The Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 also has nice rubber stoppers on the bottom of it so that it doesn’t hurt your table and doesn’t slide around.
Let’s move on to the specifications of the unit.
It has a bit-depth of 24bit; a sampling rate of 192kHz, as well as a Gain range of 56db and a dynamic range of 111 dB.
If you were anything like me, these terms and specifications don’t mean a lot. So, let’s unpack what each one means.
What Is Bit-Depth?
The Bit-Depth is the number of “bits,” or pieces of information that are stored in each sample.
A Bit-Depth of 1, simply, means 6 dB. So a 16-bit audio clip, which is the standard for CDs, will have a dynamic range of 96dB. The digital noise floor tends to be quite high, so therefore the dynamic range is small.
The digital noise floor refers to the noise created by the actual system itself. Any kind of recording will pick up on undesirable sounds, for instance, an acoustic may have background noise and electronics will have thermal noise.
Moreover, there can be interfering signals from the environment as well. A digital measurement system will have within the system itself, noises that are undesirable.
Typically speaking, the more electronics there are in the system, the more noises there will be.
So, relating this back to the bit-depth, because the dynamic range is smaller, that means that recorded sounds at a lower volume may have more noise within them.
For that reason, the 24-bit audio range allows for a dynamic range of 144 dB, therefore, professionals are able to get a better-sounding recording.
In the graph I created which you can see above, there is the blue line and the red lines, and the blue line represents analog and the red lines represent digital.
You’ll notice that the analog one is one consistent line, whereas the digital line is chopped up into little squares.
Essentially, the grid-lines are meant to communicate what is known as “bit-depth.” The number of bits is basically how much information is recorded per sample.
The distance between each gridline represents one bit per line.
A sample is a term that describes the reduction of a continuous-time signal to a discrete-time signal.
In other words, it’s the transformation of a flowing and continuous signal into a signal that’s divided into individual “bits” or “parts”. For instance, converting an analog sound into a digital sound.
In other words, the more “bits” there are, the higher the quality of the information.
The fewer the bits, the fewer the number of information recorded in the sample.
This is why people argue that Analog is superior to Digital, because an Analog recording is capturing more information, thus, the sound is considered higher quality.
The specification, 16-bit, or 24-bit, represents how much information is recorded within each sample.
Using the example above, you can see how if there are more grid-lines, that means that the digital recording is capturing more of the sound, and it’s doing a better job of capturing all of the information because there are more points at which the digital recording is picking up the information.
Explained another way, if there are more grid-lines, and more “bits,” that means there will be more Red Squares, so to speak, therefore there is more information recorded in each sample.
If there are fewer grid-lines or “bits,” that means the soundwave will be chopped into fewer squares, and the recording will be choppier and not as good in quality.
The analog recording, represented by the blue line, is a continuous line in contrast to the digital which is chopped up into little squares.
I hope you’re able to see what’s being illustrated here.
For the sake of clarification, what I’m trying to say is that digital recordings are broken up into tiny little data packages, and the more data packages there are, the more information there is, therefore the quality of the recording is higher.
Analog, on the other hand, is not broken up into tiny little data packages. It’s just one long continuous recording.
Using an example, the common CD has a typical resolution of about 16-bits. Moreover, it’s also the standard by which most CDs and converters operate. While many can be much stronger than 16-bit, the consequence of this is that the computer’s processor will work much harder.
I hope this explanation has illuminated what is meant by “bit-depth.”
Let’s move on to the next specification that I laid out for the Focusrite Scarlett 2i2, the “sampling rate.”
What Is The Sampling Rate?
Both the sampling rate (not to be confused with the act of sampling music which I also have a guide on) as well as the bit-depth play a fundamental role in the quality of a digital recording.
From the explanation you just read above, you’ll see that its function is a bit easier to communicate. The sampling rate, however, is more sophisticated.
The sampling rate is the number of samples per unit of time, typically measured in seconds.
It refers to the rate at which samples are taken of an analog sound and converted into a digital sound. It’s kind of like a digital photo of the audio. The standard of measurement for communicating this signal is typically Hertz.
If you’re new to audio engineering, know that these frequency ranges used to be known as the level at which human beings can hear.
If you’re a dog person, you’ll know that they can pick up much higher frequencies, which is why dog whistles are a thing.
If you’ve ever had an amp with bad feedback around your dog, I’m sure you know how much they dislike it.
In recent years, people have figured out that humans can actually hear frequencies that are a bit lower and higher than 20Hz – 20,000Hz. These days, interfaces with a sampling rate of 48kHz and even much higher can be found on the market.
The caveat to using a piece of equipment with a higher bit-depth and sampling rate is that it tends to take up more disc space on your computer, so you won’t be able to have as many productions on the computer.
Moving past all of these explanations, you’re probably wondering if this machine works for what you need, and the answer is yes; it does.
Let’s move on to the iRig I/O, which is a much smaller but more convenient audio interface.
2) iRig Pro I/O
Click the link here to check the price on Amazon.
This portable piece of equipment is great for taking on the road, due to the fact it’s so small and light-weight.
It’s a fraction of the size of a Focusrite interface, and I use a different version of this product all of the time, an iRig HD 2, which is meant primarily for guitars.
The iRig Pro I/O, however, can be used for vocals and other instruments and is compatible with Mac, PC, iOS, macOS, and Android.
Unlike the Focusrite Interfaces, however, the iRig set-ups are typically made out of plastic, which I’m not a huge fan of, but it still performs its function well.
The iRig Pro I/O has on it two LED lights, with one being red and the other blue. If the top light is red, that means Phantom Power is on, and it’ll turn Blue or Green for MIDI in and Out signals.
The Gain LED display signifies different things, however. If it’s red, it means that the signal is clipping or “too hot.”
On the bottom of the device, is where the XLR and 1/4 inch combination cord is. This means that it’s good for both guitars and vocals.
On the right of it, it has the headphone jack as well as the volume control. On the left of it, you have the switch for Phantom Power, which I explained in detail above, in addition to the MIDI inputs and MIDI outports.
The top of it features a digital output which is meant for connecting to your computer or your phone.
It comes with a USB cable as well as two MIDI brake cables. It also comes with batteries, which is for Phantom Power on account of mobile recordings, as well as a USB cable for charging.
You can also power the device with the DC input, so it’ll charge your phone as well at the same time. However, you need a cable to do this as it doesn’t come with the cable.
Truthfully, this piece of machinery works the best for mobile systems, including iOS. There’s no question that this thing is all about convenience and portability.
So, let’s move on to the specifications.
It records at 24-bit and 96kHz. You’ll notice that this device as the same bit-depth as the Focusrite Interface, but it doesn’t have as strong of a sampling rate.
In other words, the Focusrite Saffire 2i2 has a more quality sampling rate, thus a better sound, however, the iRig Pro I/O isn’t meant for the highest quality recordings, it’s meant for portability and ease of use while traveling.
Moreover, there’s no latency when recording so that’s good for you to know.
The other great thing about this product is the fact it comes with other downloadable content from IK Multimedia, including Amplitube for iOS, which is the amplifier simulation software that many guitarists and bassists are using nowadays, however, the full version from Plugin Fox is way better.
YouTube Video Tutorial
The Guide To Audio Interfaces For Garageband
Watch this video on YouTube
Conclusion
I hope this tutorial was helpful to you. There was a lot of information and specifications to unpack in this, so I hope I managed to elucidate some concepts which will help you in your purchase of the right product.
Make sure to share it on social media with your producer friends, it would be greatly appreciated.
How to Use the Scarlett 2i2 With GarageBand [iOS
The Scarlett 2i2 and the Scarlett series in general is one of the most popular audio interfaces on the market. I think it’s probably even the most popular one available at the moment. Focusrite has managed to improve on its original design over the years too. Although, my main gripe with it is they got rid of the MIDI outputs for some reason.
Regardless, it’s still a great audio interface for the money and I use mine all of the time. However, if you’re new to recording gear, it could be a little intimidating because there are a lot of acronyms, recording gear, and other options, in conjunction with needless sophistication online. Setting one up with GarageBand is easy though. Here’s how to do it.
To use the Scarlett 2i2 with GarageBand
1) Connect the USB-C cable between the Scarlett and your PC
2) Open GarageBand > Select GarageBand > Preferences > Audio/MIDI
3) Select “Scarlett 2i2” As ‘Input Device’
(For pre-2018 iOS devices, you need a USB-C camera adapter to connect a power source)
This is the long and short of connecting a Scarlett 2i2 to GarageBand. If you want to connect GarageBand iOS, the primary difference is you need a USB-C multiport adapter – also known as a USB camera adapter – to connect your iOS device to a block charger or power bank. This is because older iPads and iPhones don’t have enough power to drive the audio interface on their own, although, newer models seem to work just fine without them. Let’s get into the details now.
By the way, I’m always on the lookout for deals in the music industry (there’s usually something if you know where to look). Right now, there are 3 deals that stick out to me
How to Use the Scarlett Audio Interface With GarageBand macOS
This is how you connect a Scarlett audio interface to GarageBand on your computer
Connecting a Scarlett 2i2 to GarageBand really isn’t difficult at all, however, there are a couple of ways to do it. For the most part, there is only one way when it comes to the actual hardware, but you can configure things differently on the software side.
For example, you can change things around in the Smart Controls of GarageBand or in the track header, depending on your needs and specifics.
Another thing that’s possible is actually adjusting the settings and parameters right in the settings of your MacBook, instead of GarageBand, but that usually isn’t necessary. That all said, let’s talk about some of the cables and accessories you need first.
What Gear You Need to Use the Scarlett with GarageBand macOS
1) USB-C Cable
I recommend getting this very one from Amazon, although the color doesn’t matter, that way you absolutely have enough length. It’s always better to be too long than too short.
I bought this one a long time ago, and it made my life much easier. As I’ve shown in my studio setup guide, I use a stand-up desk and a lot of adapters, so I need a cable with enough length.
2) Thunderbolt 3 to USB Adapter
I chose this particular adapter because it works and it’s the least expensive way to go about it when you’re first starting out. However, I wouldn’t personally recommend one of these because your needs are going to expand beyond its capabilities.
You can only connect one device with it. These days, I’m using not one but two multiport adapters because I have so much gear at this point.
These are the adapters I have connected to my MacBook Pro. You can see that it’s quite a mess.
I have to give the MacBook Pro credit for being able to power as much gear as it can. I have two Samsung monitors running, iLoud Micro Monitors, an external SSD, MIDI keyboards, and a Yubikey all connected to it.
As you can see, one adapter isn’t enough for me, and it won’t be for you either as your needs slowly expand. I’d recommend this one Thomann instead. Maybe you’ll do a bit better than me though in terms of organization though.
3) Scarlett and macOS Device
You probably own both of these, so it’s not worth diving into the specs and whatnot. Let’s get into the actual steps of how to connect everything. It’s not complicated at all, so no worries there.
1) Connect the USB-C Cable Between the Scarlett and Your Computer
This is how you connect a Scarlett 2i2 to a MacBook Pro or any other macOS device.
Once you’ve connected your Scarlett to the macOS computer, it’ll light up and start flashing. Connect your guitar or microphone (my guide on this), and then get ready to open GarageBand.
2) Open GarageBand > Choose Empty Project
Select Empty Project – or choose a pre-existing project.
3) Select “Scarlett 2i2 USB” As Your Input Device and “Built-in Output” As Your Output Device
A) Choose “Scarlett 2i2 USB” As Your Output If You’ve Connected Speakers/Headphones to the Scarlett
Choose Scarlett 2i2 USB as your Input Device and then “Built-In Output” as your Output Device.
4) Select “Choose”
This part is pretty self-explanatory. Just hit the “Choose” button to go to the next step.
5) Select Your Track Type – Software Instrument, Audio, or Drummer
Choose your Track Type
Because you’re connecting an audio interface to GarageBand, it would make sense to choose either the microphone or the guitar from the audio track section. By the way, it doesn’t have to be just a guitar. You could also connect a violin or any other instrument that uses a 1/4″ instrument jack.
6) Choose “Input 1” or “Input 2” for a Mono Track or “Input 1 + 2” for a Stereo Track
Choose a stereo track if you want to record the left and right sides of one track.
As I said in this article, choosing “Input 1,” “Input 2,” or “Input 1 + 2” determines whether you choose a mono or stereo track. The first two are mono tracks, and then the last one is a stereo track. Input 1 is the input on the far left side of the Scarlett 2i2 audio interface, and Input 2 is the one next to it.
Input 1 and Input 2 on the Scarlett 2i2.
If you plan on recording one guitar, direct input, with a guitar amp simulator or a similar device, you want to choose a mono track. But if you want to record two devices together at the same time within one track, you have to choose the stereo track instead.
Tip:
In most cases, it’s simplest to record with a mono track. So choose “Input 1” or “Input 2” if you want to make it easy on yourself.
7) Select Create and then Press the Monitoring Button
As you can see here, you have two options for turning on the monitoring. One is right down in the Smart Controls and the other is on the track header.
In simple terms, the monitoring button allows you to hear yourself while you’re recording (more on this in my guide). This is crucial if you’re a singer or a guitar player that wants to lay down your parts alongside other instruments and sounds.
Another tip is to have the Automatic Level Control turned off. I usually do choose to have the Feedback Protection turned on, as you can see in the image above. I often turn the Noise Gate on as well and have it hover around-35dB to -50dB (my noise gate tutorial). These functions are ancillary but worth bringing up.
8) Ensure the Input is Set As “Scarlett 2i2 USB” in the Smart Controls
The input device when connected to GarageBand
In most instances, you won’t have to adjust the input device in the Smart Controls because you already made this configuration when you first opened your GarageBand project. Sometimes things get switched around though, and in these cases, you can quickly make the needed adjustment in the Smart Controls.
9) Connect Your Instrument or Microphone and Then Hit Record to Start
The basics of how a Scarlett 2i2 works – here’s my guide on direct and regular monitoring, if you’re interested.
Once you’ve hooked up your gear, you can press “Record” in GarageBand and then you can start recording. And that’s pretty much it. Now that you’ve got an idea of how to use your Scarlett audio interface with GarageBand macOS, I’ll show you how to do it with the GarageBand iOS version instead.
How to Use the Scarlett Audio Interface With GarageBand iOS
How to connect a Scarlett 2i2 to a new iPhone (post-2018) with GarageBand running.
While there are some differences between GarageBand macOS and iOS, many of which I’ve discussed in this guide, they’re fundamentally the same.
What impresses me is that Apple has managed to make GarageBand iOS recording even easier, however, in some cases, you’ll need extra equipment if you’re trying to power an audio interface.
For example, my iPhone X has enough power to drive the Scarlett 2i2 without any problems. But the same thing can’t be said for my iPhone 7 + or my iPhone 6s. If you’re using an older iOS device, ie, pre-2018, you’ll probably need a power bank or a block charger to run the Scarlett 2i2 and GarageBand.
Assuming you’re using a newer device (2018 and newer), you probably won’t need to use a block charger or power bank. You just have to connect your iPhone or iPad to the Scarlett, the same way you would with the computer – with the appropriate USB adapter and a USB-C cable.
Instead of the Thunderbolt 3 to USB adapter which is what the MacBook Pro would use, you’ll need to use a standard USB to USB-C adapter.
Use the Thunderbolt 3 to USB adapter for macOS and the USB to USB-C adapter for iOS
What Gear You Need to Use the Scarlett with GarageBand iOS
1) USB-C Multiport Adapter (also called a Camera Adapter)
There’s no need to get the official Apple camera adapter because this one on Amazon works just fine.
If you are one of the people who’s using an older iOS device (pre-2018, I believe), you’ll need a USB Camera Adapter like the one that’s shown and linked in the image above.
2) USB-C Cable (x2)
You need two of these because one has to connect to the power bank or block charger, while the other one connects from the Scarlett 2i2 to the iPhone/iPad.
3) Headphones/Speakers
You need headphones or speakers to monitor while recording. I recommend getting the 80 ohms version of the Beyerdynamic DT 990 Pros (on Amazon).
The reason you need headphones has to do with the use of the audio interface. The Scarlett takes over the input and output of the iOS device, so you can’t just use the iPhone speaker, unfortunately. I’m not sure why Apple designed their system to be like this, but this is how it works – for now.
4) 1/4″ to Headphone Adapter
It would be wise to buy more than one of these on Amazon because they often go missing, especially if you work with other people a lot.
If you plan on using headphones with your Scarlett 2i2, then you’ll need this adapter for sure. However, if you want to connect speakers, you can just use the L and R outputs on the back of the Scarlett instead. These are 1/4″ jacks.
5) Powerbank or Block Charger
I got this Power Bank given to me as a gift, but you can find plenty of good ones on Amazon
The power bank or block charger is absolutely essential because – as I said before – pre-2018 iPhone/iPads do not have the juice to drive the Scarlett 2i2. As you may know, the Scarlett 2i2 is bus-powered, which means it relies on the power from the connected device to run. Without further ado, let’s dive into how to set everything up.
How to connect an older iPhone and a power bank to an audio interface.
1) Connect the USB-C Multiport Adapter to Your iOS Device
The iPhone 7 + and the camera adapter.
2) Connect the Power Bank or Block Charger to the Camera Adapter
The iPhone 7 +, power bank, and the camera adapter connected
3) Connect the Scarlett with the USB-C Cable
Now we’re ready to start.
4) Open GarageBand iOS and Choose Audio Recorder (Voice or Instrument)
The Audio Recorder in GarageBand iOS
If you’ve connected a guitar or a bass guitar, you can also use the Amp Designer for both of these instruments instead. This will give you a virtual guitar amplifier simulator, rather than a direct input guitar recording.
5) Click on the Input Device and Turn On Monitoring
Click the input device icon which is shown above, and then turn on the monitoring so you can actually hear what you’re recording
6) Press Record Whenever You’re Ready to Start Recording
Press the red “record” button whenever you’re ready to start recording
And that’s it. You now know how to use the Scarlett with GarageBand macOS and iOS. You may run into some issues though, including when it comes to monitoring. I’ve added a brief section to walk you through a few of the most common issues.
Why Can’t I Hear When Recording With GarageBand and My Scarlett?
1) You Haven’t Turned on the Monitoring Button
The monitoring button in the smart controls (press ‘B’ on your keyboard), or in the regular track header configuration.
The primary reason why you can’t hear yourself while recording or monitoring in GarageBand with your Scarlett 2i2 connected is that you haven’t turned on the monitoring button.
To do this, press ‘B’ on your keyboard to open the Smart Controls and then click the symbol that looks like an upside-down WiFi icon (by the way, I have a whole list of keyboard shortcuts here).
How to turn on the monitoring button in GarageBand iOS
While this solution seems rudimentary, it’s a big one that a lot of people forget. As a matter of fact, I have an entirely separate article that discusses this very thing.
2) You’ve Forgotten to Disconnect Your Bluetooth Speaker
Make sure you’ve disconnected your Bluetooth devices from your iOS or macOS device.
This one usually concerns GarageBand iOS, primarily, and it’s that you’ve forgotten to disconnect your iPad or iPhone from your Bluetooth device, whichever one it may be. In some cases, it’s because you’ve forgotten to disconnect your AirPods, or it’s because you’ve forgotten that you’re connected to your Google Home or Amazon Alexa.
The fact of the matter is that you can’t use these devices to monitor in GarageBand iOS while you have an audio interface connected. As I was saying earlier, the iOS operating system has it set up so that when you connect an audio interface, the input and output audio are now routed to and from the audio interface.
3) You Need to Reboot the Settings Configuration
You may have to reset your settings like what is shown in the image here.
Every once in a while, GarageBand macOS won’t configure the settings properly, despite the fact that you’ve made the change in the Preferences and maybe even down in the Smart Controls. To fix this, you just have to switch the Preferences to something else briefly, and then switch it back to the Scarlett 2i2, or whichever device you’re using.
The same thing goes for the Smart Controls as well. Additionally, it’s worth stating that sometimes you must make the change in the Smart Controls because the settings in the Preferences don’t always configure things properly. I’m not sure why this is the case, but it’s easily fixed.
Also, for reasons that are unknown to me, there are cases where GarageBand will continuously switch to a different input/output device.
For example, if you try and switch to a different device, it may work for a few minutes, but then switch back to the previous input/output device. As I said a moment ago, I’m not sure why this is, but again, it’s easy to fix.
4) You Haven’t Connected Headphones/Speakers to the Scarlett (GarageBand iOS)
You need one of these adapters (on Amazon) in order to connect headphones
This is another big reason why you can’t hear yourself while using GarageBand iOS and an audio interface. You probably just didn’t know that you have to connect headphones or speakers to your device. This is a simple fix.
However, you probably will need a 1/4″ to headphone adapter which is easily found on Amazon for cheap. If I were you, I would even buy a bunch of these, especially if you work with a lot of people. They always go missing, and I imagine it’s because people either pocket them and forget about them, or they just straight-up steal them.
Important Things to Note About the Scarlett Series & GarageBand
1) A Scarlett 4i4, 8i6, 18i8, and 18i20 Require Configuration With Focusrite Control
How To Use The Focusrite Control Software
Watch this video on YouTube
As I said in my other article on how to connect the Scarlett 2i2 to an iPhone or iPad, if you’re using a Scarlett series audio interface that’s above the 2i2 and an iPad/iPhone, then you’ll need to configure your settings with Focusrite Control.
This means you’ll need a desktop computer to switch things around because Focusrite Control isn’t available on iOS. This is not the case, however, if you’re using one of these devices with a computer that’s running macOS.
Gear Mentioned
1) Scarlett 2i2 (on Amazon)
2) USB-C Cable (on Amazon)
3) USB-C Adapter (on Amazon)
4) 2021 MacBook Pro with M1 Chip and 1TB (on Amazon)
5) Kramer Multiport Adapter (on Thomann)
6) Camera Adapter (on Amazon)
7) 1/4″ to Headphone Adapter (on Amazon)
8) Beyerdynamic DT 990 Pros – 80 ohms (on Amazon)
Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 Review
Great Get Yours Here AMAZON
I don’t have a big impressive home recording studio. I don’t have dozens of guitars lining my walls, acoustic foam covering every surface or banks of expensive engineering equipment surrounding a top of the range Mac.
In fact, up until a few years ago I didn’t even use an audio interface at all, instead relying on a single USB microphone to capture my musical tomfoolery.
So when I eventually did make the leap and got my hands on a ‘proper’ recording interface I was thoroughly amazed at the jump in sound quality I was able to produce through the use of XLR microphones and directly inputted instruments.
There’s been a boom in the overall quality of ‘affordable’ audio interfaces in the last few years, with companies like Presonus and M-Audio leading the charge.
There is one company (and one model in particular) however that just keeps cropping up – the Focusrite Scarlett 2i2.
I just had to see what all the fuss is about…
What Is It?
Marketed for ‘musicians on the go’, the Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 is a premium audio interface. The 2i2 refers to the number of inputs and outputs the device has – 2 Hybrid XLR/1/4″ TRS jack inputs on the front of it and 2 balanced monitor outputs on the back.
Some XLR mics require Phantom power to work properly and it’s included here, along with a dedicated headphone monitor output, meaning that you can attach your ‘cans’ to the front facing headphone jack, flick a switch and you’ll be listening to what your playing direct from the interface instead of from your Mac. Handy if you ever come up against latency problems.
The big draw here though is the Scarlett 2i2’s on board preamps. They’re the same ones that power Focusrite’s flagship interfaces. They definitely sound fantastic and I didn’t find them overly sensitive at all. I found that setting the gain knob at around the 1-2 o’clock position was ideal for picking up a good, strong input signal.
Speaking of Gain, the Scarlett 2i2 makes it really simple to set your levels by including a unique gain halo system. If you’ve pushed the gain too high, the light around the knob will turn red, reducing the gain until the light turns green let’s you know you’ve hit the ideal volume. Simple, but VERY useful.
You can find the full rundown of the Scarlett 2i2’s specs here
How Does It Sound?
Put simply – fantastic.
Those top spec pre-amps really bring out the best in whatever you decide to hook up to the device. I put together a wee comparison for you to hear for yourself.
In this comparison:
Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 + Audio Technica AT2020 XLR Microphone
Samson C01U USB Microphone
In Built Microphone
So far, so awesome, but I did run into a couple of issues the first time I set the Scarlett 2i2 up…
Snap, Crackle and Pop
The first issue I encountered was a simple fix. When hooking up the Scarlett 2i2, Garageband instantly recognised it and changed the audio drivers appropriately. I wasn’t able to hear anything though, even though the the volume display in the track header was showing that something was definitely happening…
The problem? Garageband had set the Scarlett 2i2 as the output device, and as I had my headphones through my Mac, I wasn’t hearing a thing. Diving into Garageband’s preferences menu and switching the output device to ‘Built In Output’ did the trick.
The second issue? Well, the second issue was a little more serious.
No matter how much I fiddled with the gain controls, unplugged/plugged back in, restarted and swapped inputs, there was an incredibly irritating ‘pop’ sound every few seconds when trying to record.
I actually thought i’d purchased a faulty unit! A swift Google search later and I found the solution – I had to download a ‘class compliant mode app’ and install it (it took seconds).
According to Focusrite, some users running OS X Mavericks can experience some glitchy sounds and drop outs. I guess that extends to Yosemite users too. A little annoying considering that the 2i2 is pushed as a ‘plug and play’ interface, but whatever – it was a simple enough fix, but still worth mentioning.
The Verdict
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