Top 35 How To Exercise A Bunny The 187 Top Answers

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Play Items. Rabbits need exercise equipment too; ramps to run on, buckets of hay to jump in and boxes to climb on are great fun. Cardboard tubes, large enough for your rabbit to run through will make great rabbit tunnels. Toys, both chew toys and toss/nudge toys, can be added to this environment.Exercising your rabbit

Rabbits need a minimum of 4 hours daily exercise each day. Exercise for rabbits consists of hopping, running, jumping on and off raised areas and doing ‘binkies’ (jumping into the air and twisting their head and body in opposite directions).Ideally, rabbits should be able to exercise whenever they want to but a minimum of four hours free run a day is recommended, ideally split into two exercise periods morning and evening of about two hours each.”

Contents

How much exercise does a bunny need?

Exercising your rabbit

How active should a pet rabbit be?

Ideally, rabbits should be able to exercise whenever they want to but a minimum of four hours free run a day is recommended, ideally split into two exercise periods morning and evening of about two hours each.”

What happens if a rabbit doesn’t get exercise?

Rabbit’s who don’t get enough exercise can also become bored and depressed. Bored rabbits are more likely to be destructive. When they finally are let out, they’ll be more likely to dig into carpets and chew on things they shouldn’t. Rabbits who are depressed can become irritable and angry.

Why my rabbit is lazy?

Many pet rabbits suffer from depression which can be confused for laziness. Make sure your bunny has sufficient freedom to run around without fear. Make sure he is getting affection and good tasting food to eat. Larger rabbits were bred to be docile, inactive, and grow quickly, to eat.

How often should I let my bunny out of the cage?

To keep your rabbit happy and healthy, let it out of its cage at least once a day, giving it time to roam. Though at least one hour is necessary, aim closer to three or four. As a rule, never keep your rabbit cooped up for 24 hours at a time.

How much attention do rabbits need a day?

It’s best to spend about an hour each day with your rabbit. On average, early morning is the best time to play with a rabbit, as it will be the most active. After that, the evening will be a prime opportunity for petting and cuddling. Younger rabbits may need your undivided attention as they have more energy.

What do bunnies do all day?

A typical rabbit day

Rabbits usually wake up with the dawn and stay active until about mid morning. They spend this time eating, grooming, digging, foraging and playing. They may investigate a new toy or digging box, follow you around to see what you are doing, or race around burning off energy.

Do rabbits like light or dark?

Rabbits need a contrast of light and darkness. A rabbit that lives in constant light can experience stress. In addition, their eyes can be damaged, and they’ll gain weight. Provide a dark area for your bunny to sleep and relax within.

How can you tell if your rabbit is bored?

If rabbits live in small hutches with nothing to do and no space to move, they get bored. Boredom can cause some serious health problems: Bored rabbits will fill their time by eating. If they eat too much and don’t move around they’ll put on weight.

Why is my bunny not playful?

If your rabbit suddenly shows no interest in engaging, something is wrong. Your rabbit’s reluctance to play could be mental or physical. If your rabbit doesn’t run around but is otherwise healthy, it’s likely a physical illness. If they avoid all contact, they’re probably experiencing emotional turmoil.

Can you let bunnies run around the house?

Instead of spending most of their time in an enclosure, free roam rabbits are allowed to wander freely in the home or apartment, even when their pet parents aren’t present. Similar to the way many people share their homes with cats and dogs, free roam rabbits can explore, nap, and play wherever they please.

How do I train my bunny to sleep with me?

Stroking and playing with your bunny before sleep can be relaxing for both of you. Rabbits are also very sociable animals and prefer to sleep cuddled up to either a person or another rabbit, so this might also benefit your pet. Some rabbits live outside, and being taken in at night is also quite calming for them too.

How do you keep a rabbit fit?

Encourage plenty of exercise

Make sure you take your rabbit out of its cage at least once every day, either in a run or to run around the room. And use playtime as a way of encouraging exercise. Did you know rabbits have long, powerful hind legs and can reach sprinting speeds of up to 50 miles per hour?

How do you know if your rabbit doesn’t like you?

Does your rabbit really hate you?

Aggressive rabbits. A rabbit that swats, lunges or bites people does not necessarily hate them. …
Rabbits that run away. …
Rabbits that won’t cuddle. …
Holding your rabbit. …
You’re too loud. …
Too much unwanted attention. …
You smell like other animals. …
Your rabbit is territorial.

How long should a rabbit exercise a day?

As a general rule, your rabbit should be spending as much time as possible during the day in a large, secure outdoor run. At a minimum, this should be three hours, but the more the better! Remember to make sure your rabbits’ outdoor run is safe from predators, safe from escape attempts and has shade on sunny days.

How many hours of playtime do rabbits need?

Rabbits require at least 3 hours of exercise outside their hutch per day. This is a minimum. If you can give your rabbit more time than this, you should. 7 to 8 hours per day is a more acceptable figure.

How much attention do rabbits need a day?

How long can a bunny be left alone?

Rabbits are not particularly independent, so they can’t be left on their own for more than two days. However, if it’s just a weekend or a working day, we can make sure they get everything they need, so we can spend time away from home without worrying too much about their health.

15 Ways to Exercise Your Rabbit

Rabbit Exercise | Wisconsin Humane Society

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Table of Contents:

Wisconsin Humane Society

Selecting A Play Area

Play Items

Outdoor Play Time

Rabbit Exercise | Wisconsin Humane Society

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Table of Contents:

Animal Welfare Victoria

Environment for your rabbit

Transporting your rabbit

If you are away

Feeding for your rabbit

Water for your rabbit

Rabbit behaviour

Handling your rabbit

Health of your rabbit

Dental care for rabbits

Breeding and reproduction of rabbits

Identification of rabbits

Euthanasia of rabbits

Acknowledgements and resources

Article author: www.burgesspetcare.com
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Most searched keywords: Whether you are looking for How to help your bunnies get all the exercise they need | Burgess Pet Care Updating To encourage your bunny chums to like to move it, move it, create an exciting space where they can hop, run, jump, explore and forage
Table of Contents:

Wisconsin Humane Society

Rabbit Exercise

Just like you should exercise every day, so should your bunny!

Exercise time can be a wonderful bonding opportunity where you can play with your bunny. Your rabbit will also benefit by playing alone and you can encourage her by giving her an exercise space that is interesting and stimulating.

Selecting A Play Area

It doesn’t have to be very large, one room is sufficient.

After your rabbit becomes comfortable and familliar with the room, it is possible to allow him to explore more areas of your home. Once you know where you are going to allow your bunny to roam free, make sure the area is bunny proofed. Keeping electrical cords out of reach and making sure there are no small objects available that your rabbit can nibble on or swallow.

Play Items

Rabbits need exercise equipment too; ramps to run on, buckets of hay to jump in and boxes to climb on are great fun.

Cardboard tubes, large enough for your rabbit to run through will make great rabbit tunnels. Toys, both chew toys and toss/nudge toys, can be added to this environment. Having something extra to chew on and dig is also a good idea and an old phone book will do the trick! Be sure to always have a litter box in their play area, just in case.

Outdoor Play Time

An outdoor area is also very nice, but takes extra consideration.

Predators, toxic plants, pesticides and moving vehicles can all be deadly to your bunny. If you are going to have outside playtime, please plan wisely. A large covered playpen can be built with straw strewn across the floor. An enclosed porch or balcony can also serve as a good outdoor area. Please remember that outdoor time must always be supervised.

Guidelines for keeping pet rabbits

Owning a rabbit is a long term commitment financially and in terms of responsibility. The law requires that the needs of the rabbit must be met and all reasonable steps must be taken to ensure this.

A rabbit should have a suitable environment to provide:

protection against climate extremes

an appropriate diet and water

protection from pain and suffering

freedom of movement.

It is important to monitor changes of behaviour which may mean that your rabbit is distressed, ill or not coping with its environment (its needs are not being sufficiently met).

An adult (18 years or older) must be the primary carer of your rabbit. It should be recognised that rabbits are not suitable pets for children under 8 years of age. For children 8 years and older, an adult should be the primary carer of the rabbits.

It is the owner’s responsibility to read these guidelines and ensure that all requirements are met.

Environment for your rabbit

A rabbit’s environment refers to any area the rabbit has access to. It includes where the rabbit eats, sleeps, exercises and excretes.

The environment should be sufficient to allow the rabbit to do all of the following:

rest and sleep

eat and drink

exercise and explore

interact with companions

play

chew

scent mark

look out for danger and companions.

The environment should always provide rabbits with protection and shelter from:

predators such as cats, dogs, foxes, birds of prey

extremes of temperature both indoors and outdoors

rain, wind and sun.

Rabbits should have access to hiding places at all times. There should be enough hiding places in the enclosure to allow all animals to hide at any given time. A good hiding place should:

be a suitable size for the rabbit

have more than one entrance

be constructed from non-toxic materials

contain no sharp edges.

Suitable hiding places include:

wooden boxes

paper sacks

drain pipes

shelves.

Hiding places should provide suitable bedding such as:

hay

straw

untreated wood shavings

shredded paper.

Living areas and housing for your rabbit

Indoor living areas should be in a cool room out of direct sunlight. They need to be protected from draughts, loud noises and direct access to radiators. The area should consist of two compartments — a dark sheltered area for sleeping and another section for eating, drinking, excreting and exploring.

Living areas should be a secure area where your rabbits can be confined, unsupervised. The living area can be considered a sleeping area which is housed within a larger enclosure or a run for more space.

The living areas should be at least large enough for a rabbit to:

lie down and stretch out in all directions

stand upright (without erect ears touching the top), cages should be no less than 45cm high for rabbits over 12 weeks of age

move around, feed and drink

take at least 3 hops in either direction from one end to the other.

Space allowance recommendations

Space allowances depend on the size of the rabbit — larger rabbits require more space than smaller rabbits (refer to Table 1 for recommendations on floor space).

a. Single rabbit

Animal weight (Kg) Min. floor area (cm2 per animal) <2 2000 2-4 4000 4-6 5400 >6 6000

b. Group of rabbits

Animal weight (Kg) Min. floor area (cm2 per animal) <2 1300 2-4 2600 4-6 3300 >6 4000 Female and litter 9300 per female + litter

Adapted from the Code of Practice for the housing and care of laboratory mice, rats, guinea pigs and rabbits.

Flooring for indoor housing

Flooring should be constructed and maintained to minimise injury or distress to rabbits.

Material should be a solid non-absorbent board and cover no less than 0.1㎡ of the total floor space (or ⅓ of the total floor area in each cage).

Use a plastic base or something that is easy to clean and disinfect.

Wooden or absorbent surfaces are not recommended.

Clean and disinfect floor regularly.

Wire mesh floor is not recommended.

Bedding materials

Bedding must be clean and dry.

Recommended bedding materials include newspaper or towels.

A hay tray with good quality hay should be provided and changed daily. This does require a nesting area or nest box.

Suitable nesting materials include:

hay

straw

untreated wood shavings

shredded paper.

Electrical switching should be of a non-sparking safety design or must be outside the animal holding area.

Outdoor housing for rabbits

Rabbits need protection from predators at all times.

When housed outside, they need a large hutch which is safe from predators (cats, dogs, foxes). This should be insect (mosquito) proof and protect rabbits from extreme weather.

Position the hutch so it is also protected from weather (on a verandah or deck). The hutch should be waterproof, sturdy, easy to clean and raised off the ground.

Do not use a metal hutch or shed as overheating can occur. Rabbits are prone to heat stress. The hutch should be put in a shed during winter months in cold climates. The space allowance for housing rabbits outdoors is the same as for in door housing.

Exercising your rabbit

Rabbits need a minimum of 4 hours daily exercise each day. Exercise for rabbits consists of hopping, running, jumping on and off raised areas and doing ‘binkies’ (jumping into the air and twisting their head and body in opposite directions).

Rabbit runs should be as large as possible to encourage the rabbits to perform the full range of exercise behaviours. Runs should provide:

appropriate platforms

tunnels and hidey holes

outside access to grassy areas

sheltered areas

space for them to be alone.

Rabbits should be supervised at all times when exercising or exploring outdoors outside of the rabbit run. Outdoor exercise areas should be rabbit-proofed to prevent escape.

Temperature and ventilation for your rabbit

Rabbits need protection from extreme temperature and bad weather in all environments (including living areas and outdoor runs).

The recommended temperature range is 10 to 25°C. Outdoor hutches should be covered with a blanket or carpet on cold nights (taking care not to block ventilation). Indoor living areas should be in a cool, non-drafty room out of direct sunlight. Enclosed buildings should have ventilation.

Rabbit hygiene

It is the responsibility of the owner to ensure that the rabbit’s environment is clean and hygienic. Only good quality, pet friendly disinfectants should be used for cleaning. Thoroughly rinse off and dry the hutch before the rabbit is returned.

The living area should be cleaned daily or as often as needed so your rabbit has a clean healthy environment.

Cleaning should include:

removal and replacement of wet and dirty bedding

removal of uneaten fresh foods

cleaning of water and food containers.

Clean the toilet area daily. Use good quality hay in the toilet area. This can be provided in a litter tray to help with containment and cleaning. One hay tray per rabbit is recommended.

Run areas should be rotated or cleaned regularly.

Protecting your rabbit from hazards

Protection from predators and harassment by other animals should be provided. Maintain living areas and runs so they are free of feral rabbits and rodents which can carry disease. They also cause stress to confined rabbits.

Insect proofing is recommended to further protect against contraction of disease (for example, myxomatosis). Take care when using herbicides, pesticides and cleaning products. Always read the packaging before use in the rabbits environment. Keep household cleaning materials, medicines and other products not intended for use on or to be consumed by rabbits out of reach.

Keep electrical cabling out of reach or protect it with rabbit proof casing, to stop the rabbit chewing through them.

Do not give rabbits access to flower beds or other areas where there could be poisonous plants. Get vet advice immediately if you think your rabbit has had contact with anything that could harm it.

Transporting your rabbit

Rabbits should be restrained in a secure pet carrier or transport container when moving them by vehicle. The pet carrier or transport container should:

be of adequate size to allow the rabbits to turn around and lie down

have good ventilation

allow rabbits to be put in and taken out without causing injury.

During transport, protect rabbits from wind, rain and extreme temperatures. Do not place the carrier in direct sunlight, next to the car heater or in the boot of the car. The carrier should be secured inside the vehicle by strapping them in place with a seat belt or wedging them in the foot-well.

Rabbits should not be transported for more than 24 hours without provision of food and water. During long trips, offer food and water regularly to the rabbit inside the carrier once the vehicle has come to a complete stop.

Do not leave rabbits unattended in a car or other vehicle during extreme cold or during warm weather when they can suffer from heat stress. This is potentially life threatening and may be prosecutable under the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals Act 1986.

If you are away

It is your responsibility as a rabbit owner to make sure your rabbit is cared for while you are away. You need to make sure your pet-sitter or carer has all necessary facilities to meet the rabbit’s needs (including a suitable hutch or living area and run if they are caring for the rabbit at a different location to the rabbit’s familiar home).

The carer should be 18 years old or older and provided with information to understand the rabbit’s needs, including these guidelines and recommendations on keeping pet rabbits. In the absence of the owner, the appointed carer is legally responsible for the welfare of the rabbit.

Boarding facilities where the rabbit is monitored and cared for by an experienced rabbit caretaker are recommended.

Feeding for your rabbit

Rabbits should be fed a balanced healthy diet at least once daily. Food such as good quality fresh hay should always be available to the rabbit during both day and night. Uneaten food from the previous meal should be considered before giving more food. Mouldy or contaminated food should be removed immediately.

Rabbits are herbivores. It is the owner’s responsibility to ensure that the rabbit is fed an appropriate high fibre diet. The fibre helps to wear down their teeth and promotes healthy gut function. High fibre diets provide environmental enrichment. A high fibre diet for rabbits includes:

90% good quality hay (oaten or grass hay) or dried or fresh grass plucked from the ground (avoid lawn clippings, clover and grass which is dirty that may have been treated with pesticides or be contaminated with faeces).

10% green leafy plants (broccoli, cabbage, parsley, watercress, celery leaves and kale) and wild plants (chickweed, bramble, raspberry, blackberry and strawberry leaves and dandelion). Twigs from safe trees (apple, pear) that have not been treated with pesticides can be given to the rabbit to chew on.

Small quantities of specialised rabbit food (pellets or nuggets) should be limited to 1 tablespoon per rabbit per day. Over-consumption of these foods may result in obesity. Be careful when feeding muesli type mixtures as rabbits are selective feeders and tend to pick out the tastier ingredients leading to a dietary imbalance.

Fruit may be fed but only occasionally due to the high sugar content.

All green foods should be washed and dried prior to feeding. Many plants are poisonous to rabbits. Only plants of known identity which have been confirmed as non-toxic to rabbits should be fed.

Changes to diet must be introduced gradually over 2 to 4 weeks, particularly when weaning or introducing green plants.

Inappropriate diets can cause obesity, teeth and gut problems in rabbits. Rabbits should not be fed too many specialist rabbit treats. Avoid sugary treats as they are harmful to a rabbit’s teeth. Changes in the rabbit’s eating habits should be monitored closely as this can be a sign of illness. Rabbits may have other dietary needs when pregnant or recovering from an illness. Seek advice from your vet or qualified pet care specialist.

A rabbit has a specialised digestive system and produces a grape-like faeces called cecotrophes which it re-digests to receive even more nutrients.

Food containers should be large enough in size or number that all your rabbits can comfortably feed at the same time.

Weight

Rabbits that are over or under weight may have health problems as a result. Potential problems include:

painful joints and feet

decreased ability and willingness to exercise

heat stress

dietary deficiencies through the inability to re-ingest cecotrophes (soft pellet like faeces that it consumes directly from the anus)

fly strike

difficulty grooming.

A rabbit is at an ideal weight when the ribs can be easily felt. The ribs should feel rounded, not sharp, with a thin layer of padding of soft tissue. The lumbar vertebrae and pelvic bones should be easily felt but not prominent. Adjust your rabbit’s feed so it does not become over or under weight.

Water for your rabbit

Rabbits should have clean fresh drinking water at all time. Metal tipped drinking bottles or drinking nipples should be positioned approximately 10cm from the floor (not too high for the rabbit to comfortably reach and not so low that it may be contaminated with urine, faeces or fur). They should not project more than 2.5cm into the hutch or cage of the rabbit. Automated drinkers are recommended with a backup system in place so the rabbits still have access to water if the automated system breaks down.

Feeding bottles or drinkers should be cleaned regularly and checked for leaks or air blocks. Water can also be provided in a water bowl, although this is not as hygienic as a bottle. Clean the water bowl regularly. A rabbit may refuse to drink if the water is given in a different way to usual, which can lead to dehydration.

It is important in cold weather to make sure the water has not frozen.

Rabbit behaviour

Rabbits are prey animals and are easily frightened. Fear is a survival mechanism, induced by a perceived threat, which enables the animal to avoid dangerous situations. However, if put in situations where they are constantly fearful the rabbit will become stressed which in turn affects both health and welfare.

Socialisation and early experiences

Early experiences can have a large influence on the behaviour of the rabbit. While some rabbits are naturally more confident than others, experience with people and rabbits (socialisation) is essential during the first weeks of life.

Rabbits that have not had experience with people may find it difficult to cope and adapt to their environment as an adult. This can lead to fear-related aggression towards people (including their owner) which makes it difficult to handle the rabbit and provide care.

It is the breeder’s responsibility to make sure the rabbit is well socialised at an early age and able to cope with most new situations and people confidently as an adult. Socialisation involves:

introducing the rabbit appropriately to different people

providing important experiences for behavioural development, experiencing objects and sounds in a safe environment.

The rabbit should not be forced to interact and should always have a safe hiding place available as an escape.

Rabbits instinctively fear other animals like dogs, cats and birds. Rabbits should be introduced to other pets gradually and always given the opportunity to avoid them. Never leave a rabbit alone with a cat or a dog, even if familiar with them.

When you bring a rabbit home, it should be gradually introduced to its new environment and to being handled.

Stress in your rabbit

It is important that you recognise any changes in the rabbit’s behaviour or signs of stress. Relaxed and content rabbits:

have a normal appetite

will sit or lay outstretched

be content to approach or interact with people and familiar objects and other animals.

In fearful situations, a rabbit will seek quiet and hidden locations. This is normal behaviour, but may be a cause for concern if it happens frequently.

Situations which may cause stress to rabbits include:

novelty (new environments, transport, strangers)

sudden or loud noises

inability to express natural behaviours (adequate exercise, lack of companionship or environmental enrichment, escape stressful events)

pain, discomfort or illness

boredom

insufficient space

no access to food or water

social stress through lack or loss of companionship or too many individuals in a confined space

insufficient temperature control or ventilation.

Signs of stress in rabbits include:

nervous behaviour (flattened ears, hunched posture, freezing, agitated and jumpy)

aggression towards people or other animals

aggression when handled

listless behaviour, lethargy and lack of interest in surroundings, food, etc.

escape behaviour and hiding (excessively)

rapid breathing or heavy breathing

over grooming or not grooming

changes in feeding or eliminative (toileting) behaviour

stereotypical behaviour (repetitive purposeless movements e.g. biting pen fittings, biting the water bottle, circling or head bobbing).

If any of these signs be detected, you should seek veterinary advice promptly.

You should take all reasonable steps to ensure your rabbit is protected from stress. You should provide your rabbit with:

secure hiding places

environmental enrichment (boxes to climb on, PVC pipe tunnels, piles of newspaper)

suitable materials to enable the rabbit to dig, and scent mark its territory (with chin secretions, urine and droppings).

Companionship and socialisation for your rabbit

As rabbits are social animals, it is recommended they be kept with an appropriate companion (a neutered rabbit of a similar size). Rabbits that are socially isolated can become frustrated and display stress behaviours.

When keeping rabbits together it is recommended to:

select neutered companions of similar size

provide hiding places if keeping rabbits of different sizes together, in which the smaller rabbit can avoid the attention of the larger rabbit

ensure the size of the accommodation is big enough for the number of rabbits

carefully consider the gender of the rabbits, same sex companions may fight even if desexed

avoid mixing established groups of unfamiliar rabbits

introduce rabbit companions carefully in a safe neutral environment and supervise them to minimise fighting

carefully re-introduce the rabbits if they have been separated for a period of time

seek advice from a pet care specialist on how to introduce the rabbits in a way that minimises risks of fighting and other welfare concerns.

Even though rabbits will accept guinea pigs as companions, it is not recommended as a rabbit can inadvertently cause bodily harm to guinea pigs. Different dietary requirements also make the guinea pig a less ideal companion.

Handling your rabbit

Rabbits instinctively do not like being picked up, particularly if not socialised appropriately. They may associate it with an attack from a prey animal. It is important to handle rabbits gently from a young age to establish trust and a bond. If it is necessary to pick up the rabbit, always use both hands. Use one hand to support the rabbit’s weight under its rump. Place the other hand around the chest. Never pick up a rabbit by the ears or by a single limb. ‘Scruffing’ (holding by loose skin on back of the neck) an adult rabbit is not recommended.

Health of your rabbit

Rabbits are prone to a number of health problems, and are physiologically very fragile. They succumb quickly to illness and disease. Regular vet checks are essential for early detection of health problems and prevention of disease through vaccinations and administration of internal and external parasite control.

Important considerations for rabbit health and welfare include:

Only use medications that have been prescribed or recommended by a veterinarian. Medicines developed for humans or other animals can be harmful to rabbits and should not be used.

Vaccinations against the disease Viral Haemorrhagic Disease (VHD) are recommended and should be administered by a veterinarian.

Unfortunately the vaccination against Myxomatosis is not legally available in Australia.

Rabbits should not have contact with wild rabbits or areas where wild rabbits have been.

Rabbits should be provided with a healthy balanced diet.

Rabbits should be provided with an environment that minimizes the risk of injury and disease.

Rabbits should be checked daily, and prompt action should be taken if the rabbit is ill or any change in behaviour is noticed.

It is the owner’s responsibility to be aware of signs that their rabbit is unwell. A vet should be consulted if the rabbit shows any signs of illness or changes in behaviour. Signs of illness include:

changes in behaviour — hunched posture, inactive, lethargic

changes in eating or drinking habits (lack of appetite, excessive drinking)

injury (swollen limbs, lameness or abnormal gait, open wounds)

discharge from eyes, ears or nose

difficulty eliminating (defaecation and urination) going to the toilet or diarrhoea

difficulty breathing (panting)

grinding teeth

redness on skin (particularly around the belly, bottom or underside of feet)

signs of pain (flinching, not wanting to be touched).

Routine health checks should be conducted to detect signs of ill health. The rabbit should be examined daily to:

detect changes in behaviour (eating and drinking)

check the feet for bald patches and sores

check the fur for parasites, dandruff, bald patches, sores, scaly patches and wounds.

check the eyes and nose for abnormal discharges

check the ears for excessive wax deposits

check for abnormal faeces (diarrhoea).

Routine weekly checks should be conducted to:

check the nails for excessive length or damage

check the teeth for appropriate length/shape

check the mouth for drooling or staining on their chest

check weight — loss of weight may indicate dental or other health problems, obesity can also cause health problems.

Rabbits should be checked twice daily during warm weather for faeces underneath and around their rear end to prevent fly strike. Fly strike occurs when fly larvae or maggots infest the tissue. Flies lay their eggs in the rabbit’s dirty fur and the hatched maggots burrow under the fur coat and into the skin. This condition may cause shock, severe illness and death if left untreated. Vet advice should be sought immediately if maggots are detected on the rabbit.

Grooming your rabbit

Many rabbits constantly moult (shed fur) and should be groomed regularly. Short haired rabbits should be groomed weekly to prevent ingestion of hair. Long haired rabbits should be groomed daily to prevent matting. If necessary, a long haired rabbit may also be clipped by a veterinarian or pet care specialist.

Rabbit nails continuously grow and are worn down naturally by exercise and digging. A rabbit’s nails should be checked regularly and trimmed to an appropriate length. Take care not to damage the sensitive tissue surround the nails. How often the nails need to be trimmed depends on the environment in which the rabbit is kept.

Dental care for rabbits

A rabbit’s teeth grow continuously throughout its life and are typically worn down by a diet high in roughage (hay and grasses). Access to hard, chewable items may also help to wear down the teeth and prevent overgrowing incisors.

A rabbit’s teeth should be checked regularly. Dental problems caused by overgrown or misaligned teeth can affect the rabbit’s ability to eat and can also be painful. Poor appetite and drooling are often signs of dental problems, and veterinary advice should be sought promptly. Overgrown or misaligned teeth should be corrected by a veterinarian.

Breeding and reproduction of rabbits

When breeding rabbits, it is the responsibility of the owner to ensure that the welfare needs of both the parents and the offspring are met. Suitable homes should be secured for all the offspring arising from a pregnancy, planned or otherwise. A vet should be consulted regularly — before, during and after the pregnancy.

Female rabbits reach sexual maturity at 4 months of age. They can produce 4 to 12 kittens per litter and have up to 6 litters per year. If you aren’t going to breed your rabbits, they should be desexed by a veterinarian. Female rabbits can be desexed from 4 months of age and male rabbits may be desexed from as early as 3 months.

Desexing rabbits has positive health and welfare benefits aside from simply preventing them from breeding. The benefits of desexing include:

reduced problematic behaviour such as aggression, nesting, spraying and mounting behaviour

prevention of womb infections or cancer

allowing companionship without unwanted pregnancies

Identification of rabbits

Permanent identification (microchip) is recommended as a precaution should the rabbit escape. The microchip should be implanted by a qualified person and registered with your local council and pound.

Euthanasia of rabbits

Rabbits must be euthanased humanely by a vet or a person trained in humane euthanasia. The recommended method is a lethal injection administered by a vet, however when performed by a trained and competent person, cervical dislocation is also an acceptable method.

Rabbits should not be poisoned, drowned or gassed.

Acknowledgements and resources

These guidelines were developed by the Victorian Animal Welfare Advisory Committee, and have been approved by the Minister for Agriculture and Food Security.

A number of documents were used as resource materials, particularly:

How to help your bunnies get all the exercise they need

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How to help your bunnies get all the exercise they need

How much exercise do pet rabbits need?

Astonishingly, a wild rabbit would run about five miles a day. Pet bunnies differ in their exercise needs according to age and breed. Rabbit expert and author of Bunnyhugga (a non-profit website that raises the profile of rabbits as pets) Hannah E Davis says: “They are designed to run very fast in short bursts and dodge and twist to escape predators – this is why you often see rabbits ‘binkying’ (leaping in the air and racing around). Younger rabbits tend to be a lot more active and are more likely to exhibit destructive behaviour such as chewing furniture or the bars of their cage if they are bored. Older rabbits usually sleep more but still need regular exercise. Larger breeds tend to be less active than small or dwarf breeds, while neutered or spayed rabbits slow down a little. Ideally, rabbits should be able to exercise whenever they want to but a minimum of four hours free run a day is recommended, ideally split into two exercise periods morning and evening of about two hours each.”

LET YOUR BUNS COME AND GO AS THEY PLEASE

It’s much easier to provide pet rabbits with the necessary exercise if their exercise run is permanently attached to their hutch/cage, so they can come and go as they please. Rabbits are most active at dawn and dusk – they’re ‘crepuscular’ – so lifting them from hutch to run for a few hours in the daytime just doesn’t suit their body clocks and instincts.

Source: Rabbit Welfare Association & Fund

Why is exercise so important for bunnies?

Burgess in-house vet, Dr Suzanne Moyes, advises: “Without adequate exercise, the skeletal frame of a pet rabbit suffers. Exercise helps young rabbits develop a healthy bone structure and helps adult bunnies maintain a healthy physique. If bunnies don’t have enough to do, they’ll get bored and may overeat, causing obesity. For rabbits, being overweight makes it harder for them to move about, causing a range of health problems. These can include heart problems and arthritis – and the fur on the back of their legs may get worn away, making their skin sore. And, if they can’t turn around to clean themselves properly, they can become vulnerable to flystrike (when flies lay eggs, which hatch into maggots and eat the rabbit’s flesh). Bored, inactive rabbits may also over-groom themselves, making them susceptible to hairballs.”

What sort of exercise do rabbits need?

As well as a chance to run, buns need an exciting space where they can hop, jump, explore and forage and do all the things that come naturally to bunnies.

To encourage them to be more active, give your bunnies plenty of things to do – tunnels to run through, toys to investigate and play with and a chance to dig. A shallow tray filled with potting compost is ideal.

As prey animals, rabbits also need constant access to safe hiding places where they can escape if they feel afraid, as well as platforms from which they hop on and off to can scan their environment for threats.

Dr Moyes says: “Enrichment is really important. Interesting environments that encourage physical and mental stimulation will create a happy place for your buns to explore and encourage natural behaviours, which is vital to your rabbits’ health and wellbeing.”

HEALTHY EATING IS IMPORTANT TOO

Rabbits should be fed in a way that is as close as possible to their natural diet: mostly grass or hay. We recommend providing some fresh leafy vegetables and a small amount of commercial feed. The long fibre of grass or hay is vital to their digestive, behavioural and dental health.

Source: Rabbit Welfare Association & Fund

Find out more about feeding your rabbit >>

Hannah E Davis says: “Rabbits are very inquisitive and enjoy exploring. It’s a good idea to have a range of suitable toys – give your rabbits different ones to play with each week to keep them interested.”

Playing games with your rabbit is a great way to prevent boredom, encourage exercise and get to know them a bit better.

Hannah E Davis shares some rabbit game tips: “One of the simplest games is to sit or lie on the ground and let your rabbits approach you. They will probably hop on and off you from every direction, investigate every bit of your clothing (watch out for nibbles!) and may even lick your face as a sign of affection. You can build an obstacle course for your rabbits out of cardboard boxes, tunnels, newspapers and so on.

“Many rabbits love jumping so you could even create a set of jumps. Some rabbits like playing with footballs or basketballs, rolling them around the floor, digging at them or even running after them. Remember that rabbits tire quickly – so if your rabbit flops down after a few minutes, give it a chance to rest and recover. Never force your rabbits to play with you – they will let you know when they’ve had enough!”

BUNNIES NEED FRIENDS TO PLAY WITH

Wild rabbits live in colonies, never on their own. Rabbits should be kept in neutered pairs or compatible groups. Recent scientific research has confirmed that rabbits suffer from stress and loneliness if kept alone as they value companionship as much as food.

Source: Rabbit Welfare Association & Fund

Find out more about introducing a new bunny buddy >>

How can I keep my bunnies safe?

This is a very important consideration. We’ve lots of useful advice on how to prevent a great escape, identifying and removing hazards and protecting your bunnies against predators in our guide to rabbit-proofing your garden >>

You can also find some great ideas for runs and hideaways at Runaround. This innovative, connective rabbit run system can connect any hutch to any run with a Runaround door and burrow pipe which safely transports your pets out of their hutch and into their run. You can also add on Runaround tunnels, hides and runs to increase the distance your pet can travel or go for a complete overland warren!

Would you like more top bunny advice?

Here are some useful guides you can download:

Burgess Excel provides nutritionally-balanced rabbit nuggets for adults, juniors, dwarfs, mature and indoor bunnies – there’s even a light variety for bunnies on the tubby side. View the full range here >>

If you found this interesting, you may also like:

MAKING HAY-TIME PLAYTIME FOR BUNNIES Rabbits need to eat their own body size in hay every day to stay healthy. Our in-house vet Dr Suzanne Moyes advises on how to help your bunnies munch their way through their daily ration by making hay-time a fun experience

HAPPY BUNNIES? Find out exactly what your rabbits need to be contented cottontails

HOW TO HANDLE YOUR RABBITS The way you pick up your rabbits has a direct impact on their welfare, according to latest research. Our in-house vet Dr Suzanne Moyes explains the right ways to handle your rabbits with care

GET EVEN CLOSER TO YOUR RABBITS Getting into the habit of carrying out regular health checks can make all the difference to the health and happiness of your beautiful bunnies, advises our in-house vet Dr Suzanne Moyes

BUNNY TALK Rabbits are highly social animals with a complex language all of their own. By learning to understand their body postures, behaviours and vocalisations, you’ll uncover their individual personalities

BONDING WITH YOUR SMALL PETS Handfeeding is a great way to build a closer bond with small animals. It takes time to build trust, but when your little friend finally feels confident enough to take a treat from your hand, it’s a special moment

Sources: bunnyhugga.com, rspca.org.uk, pdsa.org.uk, rabbitwelfare.co.uk

So you have finished reading the how to exercise a bunny topic article, if you find this article useful, please share it. Thank you very much. See more: bunny exercise pen, bunny exercise wheel, rabbit exercise requirements, bunny exercise equipment, ribbit exercise, bunny hop exercise, rabbit run, rabbit toys

Top 35 How To Exercise A Bunny The 187 Top Answers

How much exercise does a bunny need?

How active should a pet rabbit be?

What happens if a rabbit doesn’t get exercise?

Why my rabbit is lazy?

How often should I let my bunny out of the cage?

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Do rabbits like light or dark?

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Why is my bunny not playful?

Can you let bunnies run around the house?

How do I train my bunny to sleep with me?

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How long should a rabbit exercise a day?

How many hours of playtime do rabbits need?

How much attention do rabbits need a day?

How long can a bunny be left alone?

Rabbit Exercise | Wisconsin Humane Society

Guidelines for keeping pet rabbits | Rabbits | Other pets | Animal Welfare Victoria | Livestock and animals | Agriculture Victoria

How to help your bunnies get all the exercise they need | Burgess Pet Care

15 Ways to Make Sure Your Rabbit Gets Enough Exercise

What can I do if my rabbit is lazy? – Quora

15 Ways to Make Sure Your Rabbit Gets Enough Exercise

3 Ways to Exercise Your Rabbit – wikiHow

How should I exercise my rabbits? – PDSA

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How Much Exercise Do Rabbits Need Each Day? — Rabbit Care Tips

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Wisconsin Humane Society

Guidelines for keeping pet rabbits

How to help your bunnies get all the exercise they need

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