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Contents
How do you water Spiderlings?
As mentioned above, spiderlings are too small for water dishes and will obtain enough water from their prey as long as the container doesn’t become very dry. Once a terrestrial tarantula has a legspan equal to or greater than a 2-liter soda bottle cap I begin to use said cap as a water dish. Always use fresh water.
How do I give my tarantula water?
Place one hand on top of the tarantula and slowly flip them over onto their back. Then, take take the eye dropper, fill it with water, and drop a tiny bit of water onto the mouth of the tarantula. If a tarantula is thirsty, they’ll likely suck the drop into their mouth immediately.
How often do you feed Spiderlings?
Feeding appropriately sized crickets or roaches once or twice each week for small spiderlings is just fine. We feed spiderlings the weekend before they ship.
Does my tarantula need a water dish?
Tarantulas don’t have water dishes in the wild, so they don’t need them in captivity.
How do you keep a tarantula hydrated?
They not only acquire water from, for example, a water dish. Humidity provides water as well, and even when it is not visible to the eye, it provides hydration for your tarantula. Humid air keeps your tarantula hydrated as well. That doesn’t mean you need to mist spray the enclosure every hour.
Can I spray my tarantula with water?
Spraying or misting only soaks down the surface of the substrate and the decorations in most instances. This is a great way to give your spiders an alternative to the water dish for getting a drink, and many species, like Avicularia, will siphon moisture right off the glass and plants.
Why is my tarantula not drinking?
Humidity and moisture are especially important to tropical species. I’ve often said that tarantulas may never drink from their water dish, but the one time they need to they will really, really need to. That is why I recommend always having a dish present.
What to feed jumping Spiderlings?
Crickets. The most prevalent feeder insect found in most pet shops, which can be quickly purchased on the internet, is undoubtedly crickets. You may purchase them in a variety of sizes, including micro crickets, which are ideal for spiderlings and up to sub-adults when fed as adults.
Can Spiderlings eat mealworms?
they have small jaws and its not unusal for a mealworm to kill a spiderling when its trying to moult so if feeding mealworms you should make sure you remove if not eaten the day after. i find waxworms pretty safe. they are a big meal for a spiderling but all mine love them.
How long can a sling go without eating?
Even slings can go 9-10 days without food. Adult spiders have been known to go a year and a half.
Can a sling get wet?
The sling should not be got to wet as it takes ages to dry and after a few weeks at body temp probably wont be to hygenic, but careful showering from the waist down is possible if you have a detachable shower head.
Can a tarantula walk on water?
The force of surface tension balances the spider’s weight, helping it to walk on water.
How long do Spiderlings take to grow?
The spiderlings hatch after about a month. Different species of spider take different amounts of time to mature, with some reaching adulthood in two weeks, and some around two years. Buzzing spiders attract mates by tapping on leaves with their palps and abdomens.
How do you take care of spider eggs?
Luckily, there are several simple methods for helping remove or eliminate spider eggs you may find within your home. Spider eggs are fragile and can be removed with a broom or vacuum cleaner. If using a vacuum, remove the bag after each cleaning and dispose of the debris, including the eggs, in a sealed plastic bag.
What spider can go underwater?
water spider, (Argyroneta aquatica), also known as diving bell spider, species of spider that is known for its underwater silk web, which resembles a kind of flexible diving bell. The water spider is the only species of spider known to spend its entire life underwater.
What kind of spider likes water?
…
Diving bell spider.
| Diving bell spider Temporal range: | |
|---|---|
| Family: | Dictynidae |
| Genus: | Argyroneta Latreille, 1804 |
| Species: | A. aquatica |
| Binomial name |
How long can a black widow spider live underwater?
In a paper published today in the journal Biology Letters, Petillion and a team of researchers report that A. Fulvolineata can survive up to 40 hours underwater by slipping into a brief suspended animation, switching its metabolism from aerobic to anaerobic when oxygen is in short supply. Only a few A.
Raising Young Tarantulas | TARANTULAS.com
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Do Tarantulas Drink Water? (Ultimate Tarantula Hydration Guide)
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“ BABY TARANTULAS will DrOwN in WATER DISHES ” – YouTube
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How do I water a sling? | Arachnoboards
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Your tarantula needs water… – Ts & Things
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Raising Young Tarantulas | TARANTULAS.com
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- Summary of article content: Articles about Raising Young Tarantulas | TARANTULAS.com Sperlings will acquire the water they need from their prey [see “Watering and Feeding” below). They are too small to be given a water dish. …
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Raising Young Tarantulas
Raising Young Tarantulas [aka “spiderlings”]
© 2000-2013, Michael Jacobi and TARANTULAS.com
Introduction
Raising young tarantulas is often the most rewarding aspect of the hobby for many keepers. Beginners are usually intimidated by the thought of keeping something so small and fragile and usually will choose to stick with adult tarantulas. However, once experience is gained, watching young spiders grow from a speck to hand-size and seeing the gradual transformation to adult coloration and pattern becomes a favorite experience. If you have never kept a tarantula in captivity I do recommend you start with a larger, adult spider (see Choosing A Tarantula). For those of you ready to accept the challenge of raising baby tarantulas, read on!
The Basics
Many people are surprised just how small many “big, hairy spiders” can be. Lasiodora parahybana [“Brazilian Salmon-pink”] gets as large as the average “Goliath Bird-eater” [Theraphosa blondi] — about 10″ [250 mm], yet it begins life with less than a 0.25″ [6 mm] legspan. The reproductive strategy of the former species is to have a very large number of young (often in excess of 2000 nymphs), few of which will survive to adulthood. However, the latter species has closer to 100 nymphs and these begin their lives with a legspan of almost 1″ [25 mm]. The spiderlings [second instar or older] of most terrestrial species are about 0.25″ [6 mm], whereas those of most arboreal species are at least 0.5″ [13 mm] if not 0.75″ [19 mm].
So how do we keep these little mini-tarantulas alive? It’s easier than most inexperienced keepers believe. The key factors are using a small escape-proof container that provides somewhat elevated humidity without sacrificing ventilation, frequent feeding, and ensuring that uneaten food is removed promptly, especially during a molt cycle.
Housing
There are many types of containers that are useful in raising spiderlings. Most just require a little modification and many can be found at no cost. It is important to use a fairly small container so that the spider and its prey can “find each other” and eating and molting can be easily monitored. A 40 dram vial is perfect for most spiderlings. It is not so narrow as to make maintenance difficult and is not overly large. With small spiderlings the diameter of the container may be several times its legspan, but as it grows a container that is two or three times the diameter of the spider’s legspan is ideal. A spider can be successfully raised to a 1″ [25 mm] legspan in a 40 dram vial or baby food jar.
The most popular spiderling rearing container is the vial such as that available through Thornton Plastics. Vials allow a good depth of substrate so the spiderling can burrow (which reduces the risk of desiccation) and they are clear so that the spiderling is easily visible (if not burrowed). Other suitable containers include baby food jars and 1-2 oz. [30-60 ml] plastic condiment cups. A container that I like to use for terrestrial is actually designed for displaying a Matchbox car (see Pioneer Plastics Model 164-C). Ventilation may be added to these containers by drilling very small holes in the lid, or, in the case of the vials, holes can be punched through with a miniature Phillips screwdriver. (Note: soldering irons, which are useful for putting holes in plastic containers housing larger spiders, make too large of hole to be of use for ventilating rearing containers].
So, let’s assume that you have a baby food jar and you have cleaned it and drilled tiny holes in the lid for ventilation. Or maybe you have a clear vial with poked holes. The next step is to fill it half way with some type of substrate. Substrate choice is a matter of great debate among tarantula keepers. Garden soil, top soil, unfertilized/untreated potting soil, sphagnum peat moss, horticultural vermiculite and coconut coir (e.g., Bed-A-Beast, Eco Earth, Forest Bed) are most often used. I personally use a 50/50 mix of sphagnum peat moss and vermiculite. Both can be readily obtained at any nursery, home center or hardware store and are inexpensive. Vermiculite is used as a soil amendment to allow roots to breathe and water to be retained. It helps keep the mix from drying out and provides structural integrity to any burrows. I mix the two in equal parts in a storage tub and gradually add tepid water while stirring with a trowel until the blend just begins to clump when squeezed in a fist. If water is squeezed out it is too wet and you will need to add more substrate to dry the mix until it will barely clump together. Moisture content of the substrate may have to be slightly adjusted for species that require particularly dry or moist conditions, but, again, err on the side of dryness while trying to find the perfect balance. Even spiderlings of Asian species that live in deep burrows in humid forest will die from excessively damp conditions. In fact, I use extra caution to ensure that vials containing Haplopelma spiderlings do not become wet. Experience has taught me that even these “jungle dwellers” quickly succumb to wet and stagnant conditions. If the substrate begins to dry out it can be rehydrated with a brief light misting [avoiding the spider], or, better still, the spider can be removed [see Manipulating Spiderlings below] and the substrate can be moistened or replaced with fresh substrate.
I then fill the jar (or vial) halfway and pat down the substrate using my fingers or the butt end of the trowel. I then add a bit more and pat it down again until the jar is half full. Then I take the tip of a pencil or something similar and make a 1″ [25 mm] deep hole towards the side of the container. This creates a “starter burrow” that most spiderlings will retreat to and expand on over time. Placing it near the side of the container often results in being able to see the spiderling even when its in the burrow. Many spiderlings will make their way all the way to the bottom and you will be able to clearly see it by looking under the container. Spiderlings will acquire the water they need from their prey [see “Watering and Feeding” below). They are too small to be given a water dish. At this point you can add your spider and secure the lid. Warm room temperatures [72-78ºF/22-26ºC] are sufficient for raising most species and an external heat source is not needed and often ill-advised. If you have a cool home you might want to use an aquarium with an undertank reptile heat mat or similar heating device as an incubator of sorts to house jars of spiderlings. However, make sure the jars are raised off the bottom of this tank so that they are not in direct contact with the heat source and that a thermometer is placed inside the larger container and temperatures do not exceed 82ºF [28ºC]. I recommend using a thermostat sold in reptile shops to control the heat source. As a rule, external heat sources should be used for arachnids only if necessary and ambient room temperatures should be tried first. Excessive heat may kill the spiderling and will contribute to the substrate drying quickly.
Deli-cup Style Containers for Larger Specimens
As spiderlings outgrow the containers discussed above they can be transferred to larger homes such as clear deli cups. I use clear Solo cups – 12 or 16 oz. for terrestrial species and 32 oz. for arboreal species. Once they outgrow these they may be ready for a permanent home such as an aquarium, plastic “critter keeper” or gallon [4 l] jar (for small arboreal tarantulas).
The Insect Cup for Better Ventilation
I have become a big fan of using 16 oz. deli cups with insect lids [see Superior Enterprise] for all young tarantulas instead of vials. They provide significantly better ventilation than vials or similar containers and you can fill them with much more substrate. Having a greater depth and volume of substrate allows you to safely add more moisture less often. It will evaporate over time and provide beneficial humidity. At the same time, the great airflow offered by the insect lid reduces the risk of poor ventilation and stagnant conditions. An added benefit of the insect-style lid is that it prevents tiny flies and other pests from entering your tarantula’s home.
Special Considerations for Tree-dwelling Species
Arboreal species, such as those of the genera Avicularia and Poecilotheria, will require slightly taller containers such as a 50 dram vial. For these types of tarantula I only fill the jar or vial about one quarter of the way with substrate, do not create a starter burrow and use a small sprig of silk plant (for Avicularia, Psalmopoeus] or a small piece of bark [Poecilotheria] to provide a climbing surface and retreat. Arboreal tarantulas, especially Avicularia, will typically create silken tube retreats at the top of the container. Misting is another topic of hot debate among tarantula keepers, but I generally give a very light misting – avoiding the spider itself – to the containers housing arboreal tarantula spiderlings once a week. I ensure that there is enough ventilation that the cage dries within a day or two. If the substrate becomes increasingly damp you should increase the ventilation or decrease the amount or frequency of misting. Damp, stagnant conditions are always to be avoided.
Watering and Feeding
As mentioned above, spiderlings are too small for water dishes and will obtain enough water from their prey as long as the container doesn’t become very dry. Once a terrestrial tarantula has a legspan equal to or greater than a 2-liter soda bottle cap I begin to use said cap as a water dish. Always use fresh water. Do not use damp sponges or paper towel or cricket gel. Sponges quickly become dirty bacteria breeding grounds and are a thing of the past.
As also mentioned above, I do lightly mist containers housing arboreal species as they are often more prone to desiccation and typically are inhabitants of humid forest. However, many tarantula keepers are vehemently against misting. The key to doing it right is to be very conservative, avoid spraying the spider directly and ensure that the container dries out within a day or two and the substrate does not increase in moisture content. Once again, ventilation is more important than humidity – all other things being equal.
The one thing that makes most potential spiderling keepers nervous is feeding. Many people believe that “pinhead” crickets are necessary. The truth is that most terrestrial and some arboreal tarantula babies will scavenge and freshly killed larger crickets can be used as a food source. Some keepers just smash the head of the cricket, while others cut large crickets into a few pieces and offer each to an individual spider. Also, many people underestimate the size of cricket or other insect a spiderling will tackle. As a rule, a cricket should be offered that is approximately the total length of the spider’s body (excluding legs). Some species are very aggressive feeders and will wrestle a cricket as large as their legspan to its death! Arboreal species have slightly larger spiderlings that will usually eat insects as large as their legspan and are often easier to find food for. Regardless, true “pinhead” crickets are not required. One week old crickets (0.125″/3 mm] are usually the right size for very small spiderlings. Baby roaches [especially from small species such as Nauphoeta cinerea [“Lobster Roach”], termites and maggots can also be used. Fruit flies are too small and their flight presents problems except for arboreal species, but some keepers do use them.
One of the most important things to remember when feeding spiderlings is to remove any uneaten food or remains of prey immediately the following day. Dead crickets will attract pests and produce odor. Live crickets can injure or kill a spiderling if it is fasting in preparation for a molt or is in the molting process (see “Molting” below). It is imperative that you monitor your spiderling’s eating and keep its container clean.
An appropriately sized prey item twice a week is a good feeding regimen for spiderlings. Feeding less frequently will increase the risk of desiccation since the baby tarantulas are acquiring their water from their food. Some keepers like to “power feed” their spiderlings so that they grow quicker and will offer food daily as long as it is eaten. Whether this practice is detrimental to the health and lifespan of the spider is not known, but the same practice does have adverse resuilts in higher animals such as reptiles. Others will put several crickets in at a time, but if they are too large to be grabbed in succession the way an adult tarantula does the uneaten crickets [or other prey] may harass the feeding spider. I recommend sticking with one prey item at a time and feeding more frequently if desired.
Before leaving the subject of feeding I should answer a question that, as a dealer, I get quite frequently. That is, “How long should I wait after receiving my slings before feeding them?”. Well, I have spent years instructing my customers to wait a few days for the spider to settle into its new home before offering food. However, it seems that most customers will email me to let me know their package arrived safely and let me know that the spiderlings are already eating. The fact is that even after being boxed up and shipped across the country most spiderlings that are not about to molt will never refuse a meal!
Molting
A tarantula needs to shed its exoskeleton periodically to allow for growth. Obviously, this molting process will occur with greatest frequency when it is young. Therefore, it is not unusual for a spiderling to shed every month or two. Since most tarantulas will fast for a period of days or weeks prior to a molt it is normal for spiderlings to refuse food every so often. That is usually the sign that a molt is coming (you should also notice its coloration to gradually become duller and its abdomen to darken). As mentioned above, it is essential that food is not offered at this time. By checking for remaining food every morning after feeding you will be able to prevent the spiderling from being killed by a hungry cricket that nibbles on it during a molt. I recommend waiting for about four days after a molt to offer food again. During this time the spider will grow and its new exoskeleton will harden. The spider will be particularly vulnerable at this time and should be left alone as much as possible. The molted skin [exuvium] should be removed as soon as possible after the spider is completely finished molting.
Manipulating Spiderlings
I almost called this section “Handling”, but I certainly advise against handling small spiderlings. They are small, delicate and too easy to lose. But transferring them to another container or catching them should they come out of the container during feeding or maintenance is often necessary. The essential tool for this is a small artist’s paintbrush. I use cheap ones from the dollar store. Gently brushing the spider is the best method of gently persuading it to move the direction you wish. Slightly larger brushes should be on hand for those keeping adult tarantulas. The use of a brush is safe and generally calms the spider rather than irritating it.
Record Keeping
I recommend that feeding and molting dates be recorded. As your collection increases it becomes more difficult to remember when each spider has been fed unless you only feed on a regular schedule. When a meal is refused you can make a notation that will remind you not to offer food again until after it has molted (assuming that is why it didn’t eat). Keeping molting records is a fun way to track the spiderling’s “progress” and will help you predict when it is due to molt and should be refusing food.
Sexing
Once a tarantula has reached a legspan of around 2″ [5 cm] an experienced person can determine its gender using a stereo dissecting microscope to look for the absence or presence of spermathecae in the cast skin (exuvium). See Sexing A Tarantula.
Do Tarantulas Drink Water? (Ultimate Tarantula Hydration Guide)
Every single living creature on earth, from tiny amoeba to giant whales, requires water to survive. Despite this fact, most people have never observed a tarantula drinking water. So, how exactly do tarantulas get their water? Do they drink it out of a water bowl, or do they get it in some other fashion? This post will detail the topic of pet tarantula hydration and tell you all that you need to know about your tarantula’s drinking habits. Do Tarantulas Drink Water? In short, yes, tarantulas do need and drink water. In fact, water is way more important than food for these guys! Tarantulas have the ability to go days or weeks without food, especially when they’re going through mating season or preparing for a molt. However, just a few days without water is fatal, so it’s absolutely essential that they’re given a constant supply of clean water. Now, while these creatures get their water from normal drinking, they also get it through several other means. It’s important that you understand all of the ways that water is beneficial so that you can avoid the dreaded problem of tarantula dehydration. How Exactly Do Tarantulas Drink? As stated, tarantulas get water from several different sources. The first and most basic way is by actually drinking. Yes, tarantulas lean into their water bowls and sip just like other creatures! Behind their fangs they have little mouths that will take in small amounts of water when they’re thirsty. This isn’t done very frequently, but it’s been observed time and time again by owners.
There are also two alternate methods that tarantulas use to get water into their bodies. First of all, they get a very healthy amount of water from the food that they eat! Crickets, dubia roaches, and other small insects contain a surprising amount of water that works to sustain tarantulas. This is especially prominent with particularly ravenous tarantulas, such as Lasiodora klugi, a tarantula that readily eats anything that’s put in front of it. This is one of the main reasons why tarantulas aren’t seen drinking very frequently — they get their water from their meals! The final way that tarantulas get their water is through the humidity of their enclosure. A healthy tarantula enclosure will generally sit around 60% – 70% humidity, which results in there being a lot of water in the air. Since many tarantulas are from tropical regions, this humidity is essential for keeping their epidermis healthy. If the humidity levels in an enclosure are too low, a tarantula can quickly become dehydrated and die. As you can see, there are many different ways that tarantulas get the water that they need. It’s important that you make sure all 3 methods are being utilized so that dehydration is never close to being a problem.
Does My Tarantula Need A Water Bowl? The topic of tarantula water bowls is highly discussed and argued within the tarantula community. There are many people that don’t provide their tarantulas with water bowls, but there are also many people that vehemently stand by the fact that every tarantula needs a water bowl. So what is the correct answer? We here at Beyond The Treat, along with many tarantula experts, hold firm in the belief that every tarantula needs a water bowl in their enclosure. The benefits that water bowls bring are simply too important to ignore, and the dangers that result from the lack of a bowl are quite prominent. Below we’ll dispute some of the most common myths and misconceptions about tarantula water bowls. Myth: Water bowls are too dangerous for slings One of the most common things that you’ll hear people say about water bowls is that they should be avoided in a spiderling’s enclosure. The reasoning behind this is that water bowls pose a drowning hazard for spiderlings and are essentially the equivalent of leaving a baby unattended in a bathtub. First and foremost, there is definitely the possibility that a sling can drown in a water bowl. However, the chances of that happening are extremely small. These baby spiders are covered in small water-repelling hairs, and their bodies are simply too small and light to break the surface tension of the water. They even have the ability to go a significant amount of time without breathing. So, while a tiny risk is still present, the benefits massively outweigh the dangers. Slings are particularly fragile and are extremely prone to dehydration. Sure, the occasional misting of an enclosure will provide the tarantula with moisture, but that moisture is very short-lived. It doesn’t even compare to the benefits of having a constant water supply in a bowl. Myth: No water bowls in nature = nothing needed in captivity You’ll sometimes hear tarantula owners stating that tarantulas don’t have water bowls in nature, so it isn’t necessary to supply them with one in their enclosure. They should be used to surviving without one, right? That’s about as erroneous as stating that dogs don’t get two bowls of kibble a day in nature, so you don’t need to feed your dog at all. First of all, in nature, tarantulas have access to streams, lakes, puddles, and rain. There’s essentially a never-ending supply of water sources that tarantulas can drink from. In an enclosure, there’s no moisture beyond the occasional misting that owners provide. Without a water bowl, there’s way less water available to captive tarantulas. It should also be noted that wild tarantulas have shorter lifespans because of the fact that they have to seek out nourishment for themselves. With captive tarantulas, they don’t have to seek out their next meal or drink of water, so they have a much longer average lifespan. A well-stocked water bowl will provide the water necessary for a tarantula to live a very long and hydrated life. Myth: Tarantulas don’t use water bowls This is a major misconception that can be proven wrong with a quick internet search. There are plenty of videos and pictures showing tarantulas huddled over a water bowl drinking water. That right there disproves this myth.
Even if a tarantula doesn’t drink out of a water bowl directly, they still get a lot of use out of their existence. Water bowls help to contribute to the overall humidity of the enclosure, reducing the need for constant and inconsistent misting. So, while you may not observe your tarantula drinking from their water bowl, they’ll still benefit from its presence greatly.
Myth: Why bother when they dirty their water bowls daily? Most tarantula owners that have supplied water bowls have experienced their tarantulas immediately dirtying the bowl within a day. Whether it be dirt, waste, or webbing, many tarantulas seem to disrespect their water bowls and dirty them within 24 hours. Since tarantulas can be relatively neat and picky when it comes to their living space, they may see the water bowl as a way to clean instead of a way to stay hydrated. This can, of course, become frustrating — causing many owners to swear off using water bowls altogether! However, maintaining a clean water bowl is a simple act of good animal husbandry. Part of responsible pet ownership is keeping their living space clean and up-to-par no matter what. So, while you may have to clean a water bowl daily, it’s something that you as the owner need to do. Rest assured that your efforts aren’t for nothing, though. The presence of constant clean water in your tarantula’s enclosure is invaluable to them, even if it seems like they just use it as a toilet.
Maintaining Adequate Humidity As stated several times in this post, the humidity of a tarantula’s enclosure is extremely important for their hydration. Sure, they drink from their water bowls and get a lot of water from the food that they eat, but they still need a humid environment. A tarantula in a dry enclosure is like plopping you in the middle of the Sahara desert, giving you a couple of water bottles, and expecting you to thrive. Sure, you may stay alive, but your quality of life will be absolutely horrible. There are several things that you can do to make sure that your tarantula is being kept in a nice, humid enclosure that they absolutely need.
Know the humidity requirements of your species – Every tarantula is native to a specific area, and each of those areas have different climates. Some tarantulas thrive in 60% humidity, while others need a consistent 80%. Knowing the specific needs of your species is the first step in keeping their environment healthy.
Get the proper humidity-monitoring equipment – It simply isn’t possible to eyeball your tarantula’s enclosure and know that it’s at a healthy humidity level. Using a simple, cheap tool like a hygrometer will allow you to keep close tabs on the humidity level of an enclosure. This constant monitoring will allow you to introduce more moisture as needed before it gets too dry.
Maintain a full and clean water bowl – Water bowls have so many perks to tarantulas. Not only will it provide fresh water for drinking, but it will work to keep an enclosure humid. Many owners opt to overflow their water bowls to allow water to soak into the substrate around it, further contributing to the humidity levels. Make sure to clean the water bowl daily!
Mist the substrate as needed – One quick and easy piece of maintenance that you can do is occasionally mist the substrate in your tarantula’s enclosure. The substrate should always be slightly damp so that it keeps the entire enclosure humid. However, avoid saturating the substrate and creating a swampy environment — too much water will cause more harm than good!
Tarantula Dehydration Dehydration in tarantulas is a very real and serious problem — acting as one of the leading causes of premature death! There are only a few dangers to captive-held tarantulas, so preventing dehydration will remove many of the problems that your tarantula could run into. If you follow the steps laid out above, your tarantula should never even come close to becoming dehydrated. However, sometimes accidents happen. Something in your life may come up and prevent you from supplying your tarantula with water for a few days. If this happens, you’ll need to take immediate action in helping to hydrate you tarantula. How To Cure A Dehydrated Tarantula Dehydrated tarantulas all typically show the same symptoms. If any of the symptoms below are recognized, you should act quickly in helping your dehydrated tarantula.
Acting lethargic and slow
A small, shriveled abdomen
Laying in a semi- Laying in a semi- death curl
How do I water a sling?
RemyZee said: You can also use something to poke down deep into the substrate (be careful to avoid burrows) and squirt some water down the hole. The sling will burrow to find moisture. Also, it looks like you may need more substrate in that enclosure. Check out Tom’s Big Spiders 2-part ultimate sling care guide on YouTube. Click to expand…
Tom’s guide is super easy to follow, the whole thing is about an hour and ten minutes long (edit: that’s if you watch all 9 topics. the enclosures part is probably 5-10 minutes long b/c he does terrestrials, arboreals and burrowers a little differently). He packs moist (almost wet) substrate in the bottom, with dryer substrate on top so the slings can burrow to whatever moisture level they prefer. Then he makes some holes around the perimeter and adds water with a pipette when needed.Just got my first slings, I’m going to follow his method except I’m going to put a thin drinking straw on the side with a slot cut out at the bottom and almost flush with the lid. That way the sling can’t get into it and I can add water to the bottom layer of substrate without accidentally giving them a surprise bath.
So you have finished reading the how to give water to spiderlings topic article, if you find this article useful, please share it. Thank you very much. See more: how to take care of a sling, what to feed slings, when is a tarantula no longer a sling, brachypelma smithi sling care, tarantula slings, tarantula instar, tarantula size chart, fossorial sling enclosure
