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How do you stiffen foam?
Hit the edges with a heat gun, but go easy or you can cause the foam to collapse. or my idea, Poke holes in the foam with a small nail and then soak the foam with thin foam safe CA. Baking the foam, 20 minutes at 200 degrees gets the job done.
What can I use to harden EVA foam?
Thanks for sharing. In the past I have sealed my foam with coats of PVA glue, then used a polyeurethane resin to harden it. It leaves a nice, sandable surface that paints really nice.
How do you harden crafting foam sheets?
No – the heat just sets the shape or bend or curve of the craft foam. Its a porous material, so you need to seal it with sobo glue or mod podge. I usually cut out a shape of craft foam – coat it 3 times with Mod podge, then cut out some cotton gauze fabric, lay it on the back and seal it with mod podge as well.
What can be used to coat Styrofoam?
FoamCoat is a non-toxic, water-based coating for styrofoam and polystyrene foam, as well as other surfaces. It provides a hard, durable finish that resists chipping and cracking, yet can be sanded smooth or carved to add detailing.
Can you seal EVA foam with Mod Podge?
However, it can also be used as a general adhesive when you’re working with foam. It’s especially useful for stacking sheets of EVA, L200, or insulation foam on top of one another to create thicker pieces. Perhaps the most common use for Mod Podge in cosplay, however, is as a sealant.
How do you set up EVA foam?
To shape your foam take a heat gun and wave it over the area you want to shape, moving it around and keeping it about 4″ away from the foam. You will start to notice that the surface of the foam goes from matte to slightly shiny as it is softened somewhat by the heat.
How do you stop foam from crumbling?
Wrap tape around the Styrofoam to create a protective barrier. Clear packaging tape works well if you want to preserve the original color of the Styrofoam, but masking tape can be used if you aren’t concerned with the appearance. Regardless of the tape you use, make sure it lays flat against the Styrofoam.
How do you harden pink foam?
Watered down white glue is the cheap way to go, but it works.
Can I use epoxy on Styrofoam?
With Polystyrene or Styrofoam, you can’t directly apply Polyester or Epoxy directly to Styrofoam, as it will melt the foam.
Can you cover Styrofoam with cement?
After installing Styrofoam, you must use some cement or mortar to cover it up and harden the surface. If you want a highly reinforced structure, especially if you use a cheaper and “softer” polystyrene insulation, use some fiberglass mesh on the surface and apply a coat of mortar on the mesh.
What is the best foam for carving?
EPS (Expanded Polystyrene) is used for most of the hand-carving of our scupltures, this is typically the white foam. Some carvers will use XPS (extruded polystyrene) foam. This is sometimes called “blue foam” or “pink foam” and also by its most popular brand name — Styrofoam.
You guys know how to harden foam? – RC Groups
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Hardening EVA and Craft foam. | Halo Costume and Prop Maker Community – 405th
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AICOSU — can you give me advice on hardening craft foam?…
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FoamCoat™ | Rosco
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FoamCoat™
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You guys know how to harden foam? – RC Groups
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- Summary of article content: Articles about You guys know how to harden foam? – RC Groups To harden it use corn strach with hot water then MIX!! it alot then just use your hands to put it on let it sit and there it is! 1 2. …
- Most searched keywords: Whether you are looking for You guys know how to harden foam? – RC Groups To harden it use corn strach with hot water then MIX!! it alot then just use your hands to put it on let it sit and there it is! 1 2. Yippee! You guys know how to harden foam? Foamies (Kits)
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What to use to harden foam. | Halo Costume and Prop Maker Community – 405th
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- Summary of article content: Articles about What to use to harden foam. | Halo Costume and Prop Maker Community – 405th You can fiberglass it, cover it in casting resin, plastip, etc. Before you do any of these, coat it in pva (white or wood) glue to seal it. …
- Most searched keywords: Whether you are looking for What to use to harden foam. | Halo Costume and Prop Maker Community – 405th You can fiberglass it, cover it in casting resin, plastip, etc. Before you do any of these, coat it in pva (white or wood) glue to seal it. Hello I’m new here and have recently been making a halo 3 battle rifle out of extruded polystyrene. Right now it is pretty close to finish but I want…
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How do you harden foam cosplay? – Theburningofrome.com
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- Summary of article content: Articles about How do you harden foam cosplay? – Theburningofrome.com To harden EVA Foam you will either need varnish or you will need to work with an epoxy resin. Varnish is normally used to seal wood. …
- Most searched keywords: Whether you are looking for How do you harden foam cosplay? – Theburningofrome.com To harden EVA Foam you will either need varnish or you will need to work with an epoxy resin. Varnish is normally used to seal wood.
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How do you harden foam cosplay
How do you harden foam sheets
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How to Make Styrofoam Hard | eHow
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- Summary of article content: Articles about How to Make Styrofoam Hard | eHow You don’t need to rely on messy fiberglass resin to harden your Styrofoam. Simply use a two-part liqu polyurethane hard-coat system. …
- Most searched keywords: Whether you are looking for How to Make Styrofoam Hard | eHow You don’t need to rely on messy fiberglass resin to harden your Styrofoam. Simply use a two-part liqu polyurethane hard-coat system. Keep your Styrofoam props, cosplay outfits and other projects protected with a hard-surface coating. You don’t need to rely on messy fiberglass resin to harden your Styrofoam. Simply use a two-part liquid polyurethane hard-coat system.
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Priming the Styrofoam
Step 1
Step 2
Step 3
Hard Coating the Styrofoam
Step 1
Step 2
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hardening foam | RPF Costume and Prop Maker Community
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- Summary of article content: Articles about hardening foam | RPF Costume and Prop Maker Community You can harden foam with a lot of different things. I know some people like to use worbla.. Which is a bit pricey. It’s thermoplastic that can … …
- Most searched keywords: Whether you are looking for hardening foam | RPF Costume and Prop Maker Community You can harden foam with a lot of different things. I know some people like to use worbla.. Which is a bit pricey. It’s thermoplastic that can … Sorry if this question has been asked before, but does anybody know a good way to harden EVA foam?
I’m not sure using a bondo resin would work with closed… - Table of Contents:
Looking for some product to harden foam : TerrainBuilding
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- Summary of article content: Articles about Looking for some product to harden foam : TerrainBuilding Use a watered down mix of polyfilla (you might call it Spackle) and PVA. It’ll set rock hard and the styrofoam won’t absorb it like PVA, so you’ … …
- Most searched keywords: Whether you are looking for Looking for some product to harden foam : TerrainBuilding Use a watered down mix of polyfilla (you might call it Spackle) and PVA. It’ll set rock hard and the styrofoam won’t absorb it like PVA, so you’ … 10 votes, 10 comments. So I’m currently working on my modular terrain board. I have made tiles of about 25 x 25 x 4 cm, painted them, and coated the …
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How do you harden foam sheets?
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How To Harden Styrofoam Projects Recipes
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You guys know how to harden foam?
hoppy Space Coast USA
Quote: Originally Posted by hall woo 2 mil packing tape from Harbor freight for 50 cents a roll adds negligible weight
I use it all the time on foamy Walmart planes, makes them bounce without breaking, only creases
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=291803
For new users, be sure to clean the foam before applying (I wipe with 99% isopropyl alcohol) and use a iron set at about 180-200F to “glue and shrink” the tape on. Heating the tape with an iron increases the adhesion to the foam considerably and the tape will shrink a little to remove small wrinkles. This stuff is about 1mil, thus 1/2 the weight.For new users, be sure to clean the foam before applying (I wipe with 99% isopropyl alcohol) and use a iron set at about 180-200F to “glue and shrink” the tape on. Heating the tape with an iron increases the adhesion to the foam considerably and the tape will shrink a little to remove small wrinkles.
Hardening EVA and Craft foam.
: This part is a bit more tricky, and I can not guarantee the results. I would HIGHLY recommend using the EXACT products I have found as epoxy can be a tricky beast at best. In fact, this method was discovered COMPLETELY by accident! I was originally attempting to test this mixture on EVA with the hopes that it gave me a nice hard surface without distorting the material due to it’s no heat chemical reaction cure process. This was not the case! Since I don’t like to re-invent the wheel, I am just going to transfer the information about this directly from my website to here.* Here, I took an angled piece of foam, and coated it first with Elmer’s Carpenter’s wood glue, then with woven fiberglass. I made sure that the glue had fully penetrated the fiberglass. (Note: I would skip using the wood glue and use a base coat of this epoxy mixture in its place. The reason for this is described in my Pull Stress Test below.)* Next, I waited patiently for the glue (or epoxy) to dry completely.* Here is the magical mix. I really don’t believe these two items were ever meant to be used together, but I took a chance anyways. They are designed to be used on cement floors, and if I understand the labeling correctly, would normally create a hard coating. This was not the case here!I used equal parts of each, and it starts out like normal latex based paint. I used a standard paintbrush to apply it to the surface. I did notice that the more I messed with it, the more it created micro-bubbles, so try to limit the brush strokes you make.In case you can’t quite make it out in the picture, here are the details of these products.PART A: Pratt and Lambert Palgard Epoxy (Base 2) #S3492 (Polyamide) This is the one you add your tint to.PART B: Columbia Polyamide Epoxy #07-910-PTB GlossThis is the piece just after I applied the epoxy mix. It took about 6 hours for it to become tacky, and 12 hours before I could handle it. It seems to have cured after 18 hours at approximately 50 degrees and 65% humidity (our power went out this morning, so no heat or dehumidifier).At first, I was very disappointed with the results, as I really wanted the hard surface. The more I looked at the properties of this surface, I realized it would have some great uses. But of course, I could not leave it there! I mean, heck, I had a test piece… I gotta test it!!!Here is what I found out about the material. It is about 1/32″ thick, and has a very shiny and waterproof surface. It accepts indelible ink very well, and the transition from the glue/fiberglass to the foam was completely seamless.I decided to test the material in six different ways. As you can see in the picture, I was a bit cramped for space. In the end though, everything worked out fine.Here are the tests, and their results:BEFORE:AFTER:: I applied heat directly to the surface, making sure I got both the treated and untreated areas. I performed this test with a heat gun on low for about 45 seconds, no movement, and about 2-3 inches from the surface. I also used direct flame from a lighter, touching the surface, for about 15 seconds in another area at a later time.Result: Upon introduction to either source of heat, the material starts to bubble, but oddly enough, the bubbles disappear and leave no trace they were there. The surface was initially too hot to touch, but cooled quickly. It did not seem to damage the foam below. Where the heat was exposed directly to the unprotected foam, it was discolored (normal). All in all, this stuff seems extremely resistant to heat.: In the square test area, I took a ball point pen and stabbed the material so hard that I was shaking things off my table.Result: While the pen tip did penetrate the material, when it was removed, it nearly self sealed. Due to the fact that there is fiberglass embedded, it did not create a weak spot in the material. Out of four attempts, two actually breached the material, while the remaining two left dimples.: This was performed to check the elasticity, recovery, and durability. I took one portion and my wife the other. We pulled in opposite directions so hard that the reinforced glue seam actually gave.Result: Well, the seam broke. Other than that, no signs that any stress had been applied was evident. To include, the material was still fully connected to the foam. After REALLY pulling up the material, I noticed that it was easy to remove where only the wood glue was (thus the reason for me recommending not using the wood glue as the base coat). It was only where the epoxy had seeped through the wood glue’s cracks that were practically impossible to peel from the foam.: This was to test the ability to bend the material completely over itself on a compound angle, and whether this would alter it from it’s original state.Result: This was performed many times simply because at this point, I was just trying to find a flaw. I even twisted the material in a wringing motion. After numerous attempts, I was unsuccessful in altering anything. At first, the compound angle was a bit deformed, but after a few seconds of “massaging” it, it was back to original.: This was to test the ability to peel the material. Starting from where there was no fiberglass, to the point where the fiberglass had a full weave.Result: It was a pain to start the peel, as it really adheres to the foam. After a while I was able to get it started. It would only come off in tiny pieces, and even then, only to the point where the fiberglass was at full weave. Past that point was impossible for me to peel.: Let’s try and scratch this stuff! Using both 60 and 150 grit sandpaper, attempt to damage the surface.Result: Okay, this stuff has it’s limits. The 150 grit made it not shiny, and the 60 grit scuffed it up a bit. That was it!Remember, if you do go this route, the surface is not meant to be painted. The material is meant to be dyed with a epoxy colorant. As I have not needed to yet, I can not attest to how well a flexible type paint would perform.I hope this information has helped anyone in need of it
FoamCoat™
Application: Apply by brush, roller, or hopper spray gun depending on the desired finish. The thickness of the coating is determined by the application. When coating over fine details, use successive thin coats to build up a protective layer without obscuring the details. For an extra smooth finish without sanding, smooth the coated surface with a wet sponge before the FoamCoat™ has set completely.
Suggested Use: Excellent for use as a protective coating for many types of foam projects. Especially useful on foam scenery or props that receive physical abuse or need to last for extended tours. It can also be used as a texturing agent that is more durable and not as brittle as plaster or joint compound.
Surface Preparation:
Foam: All surfaces should be clean and dry, free of dust and grease before application.
Wood & Plastic: Clean and prime surface with Rosco Tough Prime before applying FoamCoat™.
For particularly difficult materials, lightly sand surface to give it more “tooth” before applying FoamCoat™.
Compatibility: FoamCoat™ is compatible with most water-based coatings and is easily painted or tinted. Tint FoamCoat™ using Supersaturated Roscopaint or a colorant like Proline, Mixol, Universal or Cal Tints. It is not necessary to prime FoamCoat™ before painting.
Mixing: Stir well. Due to the weight of the solids in FoamCoat™ settling may occur. Use a power mixing blade for best results.
Dilution: Use FoamCoat™ undiluted for most durable single coat application. FoamCoat™ may be diluted with water if desired. Thinner mixtures will flow and level more than an undiluted application and will dry to a thinner coating.
Color: Off-white, matte finish.
Coverage: Varies with application. Approximately 150 sq. ft. per gallon (14 sq. m. per 3.79L).
Film Thickness: Varies with application. 1/16″ – 3/16″ per application.
Dry Time: Varies with thickness of coating. Approximately 2-8 hours. Allow 24 hours to be completely dry to the touch.
Clean-Up: Soap and water.
Shelf Life: Minimum 24 months.
Packaging: 1 Gallon and 3 1/2 Gallon (3.79L and 13.26L)
CAUTIONS: Do not apply when surface or air temperatures are below 50°F (10°C). Keep from freezing. Avoid prolonged contact with skin or breathing of spray. Do not take internally. Use adequate ventilation. KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN.
All technical data, recommendations and service are accurate to the best of our knowledge. Rosco assumes no responsibility for the results obtained or damage incurred from use by the buyer in whole or in part since method of application and its use is beyond our control.
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