Top 50 How To Humanely Kill A Bearded Dragon At Home The 81 Correct Answer

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Contents

How can I euthanize my bearded dragon?

Get the beardie treated by a vet who knows what he is doing. There’s no need to put down an otherwise healthy animal. Only a vet will be able to make this judgement correctly. By the way, the safest and best method you could use to euthenize your pet is to club it over the head with a heavy hammer.

How do you humanely put down a lizard?

Euthanasia can be done by destroying the brain with a sharp blow to the head, on the middle and just posterior to the eyes. This can be done in an emergency, as when an animal is found hit by a car, grievously injured but not yet dead and no other method is available.

What will kill a bearded dragon?

Ingesting toxic plants or bugs can quickly kill your bearded dragon. Unless you realize that your dragon has ingested a toxic plant or bug, your beaded dragon can go ill quickly and die. What is this? Toxic bugs for bearded dragons include fireflies, box elder bugs, lubber grasshoppers and more.

Can a bearded dragon freeze to death?

The lowest temperature bearded dragons can survive for a short period is about 65°F. When it drops below 65°F, the lizard will start to show signs of inactivity and lethargy due to the extreme cold. If not provided with heat, the lizard will be at risk of dying.

How long do bearded dragons live?

Caring for your bearded dragon. Bearded dragons, or ‘beardies’, are one of the most popular lizards in captivity in the UK. They have a lifespan of 10 to 15 years, or even longer, so they’re quite a commitment and it’s important to keep them in a way that mimics the wild as much as possible.

Where do you draw blood from a bearded dragon?

The ventral coccygeal vein (Figure 5) lies on the midline ventral aspect of the vertebrae and is the preferred and most effective site for blood sampling. Figure 5. A ventral coccygeal vein blood sample in the bearded dragon (Pogona vitticeps).

What is poisonous to reptiles?

Avoid spiders, ticks, centipedes, millipedes, scorpions, and fireflies. Fireflies are especially toxic because they contain a self-defense toxin called lucibufagin, which is extremely poisonous to reptiles.

How does animal euthanasia work?

Euthanasia is most often accomplished for pets by injection of a death-inducing drug. Your veterinarian may administer a tranquilizer first to relax your pet. Following injection of the euthanasia drug, your pet will immediately become deeply and irreversibly unconscious as the drug stops brain function.

Do bearded dragons feel pain?

Many recent scientific studies have shown that reptiles have all of the necessary neurotransmitters and anatomy to feel pain.

What does a bearded dragon look like when it’s dying?

Some other common beardie health concerns include tail rot, mouth rot, and yellow fungus. The most obvious signs of these are visible problems with the lizard’s skin, such as discolored patches, particularly around the mouth, the appearance of rot, open wounds, swelling, or inflammation.

Can I bury my bearded dragon?

Cremation or burial are both valid options. Cremations can be arranged through your vet or directly with a pet cremation service. If you prefer to bury your bearded dragon, prepare the hole deep enough that it will not be disturbed by any passing creature.

How much does it cost to cremate a bearded dragon?

The average cost runs from $50 to $250, depending on factors such as the size of your pet, whether you choose individual or group cremation, and your location.

How long can a bearded dragon go without eating?

So an average bearded dragon can go without food for 1-3 months in the wild. Juvenile bearded dragons would not survive that long since they don’t have enough fat reserves. They can hardly last a week before their body demands food.

What does it mean when your bearded dragon turns white?

Bearded dragon is turning white because it’s shedding. Note the white patches – they are about to shed. One of the main reasons why your bearded dragon is turning white is because it’s shedding. Young bearded dragons which are actively growing will be shedding very often – as often as every few weeks.

Do bearded dragons sleep on their back?

Vitamin absorbance is one reason why bearded dragons lay on its back. Bearded dragons bask under natural light or heat lamps to help digestion and absorb Vitamin D3. Loss of balance may also cause a bearded dragon to lay on its back.

How do you euthanize an iguana?

If those pesky iguanas have pushed you to the limit, there’s a solution: You could kill them. Just do it humanely. You can shoot them with a pellet gun, stab them in the brain, even decapitate them if they don’t suffer. But don’t freeze them, drown them or poison them, or you could end up behind bars.

At Home Small Animal Euthanasia (Emergency Pest How To)

Euthanasia of reptiles

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How long can bearded dragons go without heat

Will a bearded dragon die if it gets cold

What is the lowest temperature a bearded dragon can survive

Why do bearded dragons need heat

Power Outage and Heating for Bearded Dragons

Signs your bearded dragon is too cold

How To Euthanize A Reptile At Home Humanely

Have you noticed your pet reptile is not feeling well?

Do you think your reptile is very near death?

If you are wondering if you can or should help stop the animal’s suffering, you might ask:

How can I euthanize a reptile at home?

If you consider euthanizing your reptile at home, there are a few ways to do it, including smashing its head quickly with something hard or, some will say, putting it in a fridge or freezer to stop its bodily processes.

Both of these ways are often difficult for owners, and neither is precisely the most humane option.

Keep reading to learn more about euthanizing your reptile.

How To Euthanize A Reptile At Home

Sometimes euthanizing your pet is the only alternative if they are genuinely suffering with no way to make things better.

If you are considering euthanizing your reptile, you might wonder how to do so at home.

There are a few options for euthanizing your pet at home, but these aren’t the most humane options for the pet.

One swift option to euthanize your pet is to smash its head using something hard quickly.

You will need to place the animal on a hard surface to end its life quickly.

This is a pretty gruesome way to do this, and it isn’t something everyone can do, but it is one of the most painless ways to euthanize the animal at home.

Smashing the head will instantly destroy the brain, making sure the animal does not feel pain.

With some methods of euthanizing the pet, like with decapitation, your animal is likely to feel a certain level of pain.

Research suggests the animal will still be alive for a short period if you opt for decapitation and feel the whole process.

Another way some pick for euthanizing their pet reptile is to cool them down drastically.

This is an option, but as with decapitation, your reptile will feel a certain level of pain during this process.

Most consider this option inhumane and not something you should explore.

Some people have been known to put their reptiles in the fridge or freezer for prolonged periods to slow down and eventually stop their bodies’ processes.

Research has shown this is quite painful for the animal as the tissues and other fluids in the body begin to crystallize as they cool.

The crystallization is painful for the animal, and even if you think they are asleep because of the cool down, it is believed they are still able to feel the pain of the experience.

The ice crystals will form before the animal is unconscious and will cause extreme pain.

These at-home ways to euthanize your reptile are not considered very humane, and even still, they might be too gruesome for you to consider.

It would be challenging to perform these, given your likely connection to the animal you kept as a pet.

Let’s ask the Veterinarian! Chat with an on-call Veterinarian in minutes! Have trouble with not eating, drinking, or more?

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Should I Euthanize My Reptile At Home?

While you might want to stop the animal’s suffering, euthanizing your reptile at home is often difficult because of how you would have to do it.

The most humane and effective way to euthanize your reptile is actually to take it to your local reptile veterinarian.

They know what they are doing and how to put your animal down effectively.

A veterinarian will euthanize the animal quickly with an injection and using just the right amount of medicine so the animal doesn’t suffer as it is put to sleep.

If you are attempting to euthanize at home because of financial restraints, check with the veterinarian about a payment plan.

Often they will let you split up the payments into smaller ones you can afford.

You do still want to be humane to the animal and treat it with respect.

You can still be with the animal to say goodbye, but the vet will be best able to help your animal pass on.

And who knows, they might be able to save the reptile, even if you think it is on its last life.

There are no guarantees of this, but the veterinarian will have access to testing and give a definitive answer, filling in your knowledge gaps.

Seeking professional advice will be your best option when it comes to caring for or even making the end-of-life decision for your reptile.

Is My Reptile Dying?

Keeping a reptile healthy involves many things, including providing an ideal habitat, optimal temperature, and humidity levels, and providing a healthy and varied diet.

The slightest change or minor issue can lead to health problems for your pet.

If you are concerned, you have a sick reptile, the best thing to do is assess the situation and not be afraid to contact your veterinarian.

There are a few things you might notice if your reptile is sick or dying.

The overall appearance of the animal is a great indicator.

Look for things like a change in color, rapid weight loss, or even sunken eyes.

Has your pet’s eating habits changed?

A change in how much or how often they eat is usually an indication of sickness or parasites.

Behavioral changes, like lethargy, digging, tongue flicking, and aggressiveness, can also tip you off to illness.

The best way to notice these changes is to know your reptile and what is normal for them.

As you notice any of these indicators, check the environment to ensure temperatures, humidity levels, lights, or other environmental issues are the cause.

When in doubt, give your veterinarian a call to determine the cause of your reptile’s distress.

Conclusion

It is always hard to say goodbye to your pet, no matter how much you might know it has to happen.

The best option, and the most humane, would be to contact your vet to help you decide to euthanize your reptile.

A good veterinarian will provide you with all the information you need to decide what is best for your pet.

Euthanasia of reptiles

Euthanasia, the act of humanely killing animals that are hopelessly sick or injured, is a controversial topic. Some people, including animals rights advocates, don’t believe euthanasia should ever be performed, regardless of the circumstances. However, many of these same people also oppose other things that herpetologists traditionally do: the keeping of animals in cages, feeding of prey items (rodents, poultry, fish, insects) to carnivorous reptiles and the collection of animals from the wild. (I often wonder if animals rights activists oppose giving a dog a flea bath or treating it for worms, because that would violate the rights of the parasites.) Most herpetologists and veterinarians alike are strong supporters of animal welfare rather than animal rights–believing that animals may be kept as pets, kept in zoos and used for food and research, but it is our moral obligation to provide them with optimum captive conditions, balanced diets, pay attention to their behavioral needs and keep them from pain and suffering. Occasions arise when the only way to alleviate pain and suffering is to humanely euthanize captive herps. These may include irreversible illness or injury, sacrificing a small number of a larger group to diagnose a disease outbreak or culling an overcrowded collection. Many prey animals, especially rodents, are euthanized prior to feeding them to captive reptiles. This is a special circumstance in that chemical agents should not be used or the reptile eating the euthanized rodent could suffer toxic affects. When euthanasia is performed it must be performed in a humane manner. Decapitation is an easy way to kill a reptile in that no special equipment or drugs are necessary. Nevertheless, the brain of a decapitated reptile may remain active for up to an hour, so decapitation by itself is inhumane. It may be used if the brain is pithed, or destroyed by the insertion of a probe, immediately afterwards. Some of you may have pithed leopard frogs in high school biology prior to their dissection. Euthanasia can be done by destroying the brain with a sharp blow to the head, on the middle and just posterior to the eyes. This can be done in an emergency, as when an animal is found hit by a car, grievously injured but not yet dead and no other method is available. This is among the most common methods of euthanizing feeder rodents. Care must be taken to perform this method properly, as a soft or misdirected blow could injure the patient without killing it. Large reptiles (crocodiles, monitors and big tortoises) can be killed with a gunshot of appropriate caliber to the brain. Inhalation of various gasses can be used to euthanize animals. Some of the gasses that might be used are chloroform, methoxyflurane and carbon monoxide, among others. Disadvantages of this method include the need for some means to deliver the gas to an enclosed chamber holding the patient, the potential risk to the person if improper equipment is used and the difficulty in obtaining some of those agents. I once read a report of rats killed with chloroform causing sedation in the snake that ate him. This method is useful for venomous snakes in that no handling is necessary. Freezing has been used as a humane method to kill small reptiles under one pound in weight. Although low temperatures do result in a state of torpor, the formation of ice crystals in the tissue is quite painful. Freezing should only be done to anesthetized animals. The preferred method of performing euthanasia is the injection of barbiturates into a vein or into the coelomic cavity. This is how dogs and cats are euthanized when it is necessary. The technique is quick and painless, taking only minutes to perform by the intravenous route but up to several hours by the intracoelomic route. The later route should not be used if a post-mortem examination is planned. Barbiturates are controlled substances and must be administered by licensed veterinarians. Aggressive, dangerous or difficult patients may be sedated either by injection or with anesthesia prior to euthanizing. Injectable agents should not be used on animals intended for food. In a perfect world euthanasia would never be necessary. Since it sometimes is, the goal of this column is to promote the use of humane methods and to educate readers that some commonly used methods, such as freezing and decapitation, are inappropriate. Steve Barten, DVM, is a noted reptile veterinarian is, when he is not writing about reptile and other exotic veterinary medicine, or teaching and lecturing at veterinary conferences, in exotics practice in Mundelein, IL. The following references on euthanasia are cited in the chapter on euthanasia in Manual of Reptiles (1992. Peter Benyon, Martin Lawton, John Cooper (eds.). Iowa State University, Ames, IA): JE Cooper, R Ewbank, C Platt, C Warwick (eds). 1989. Euthanasia of Amphibians and Reptiles. University Federation for Animal Welfare, Potters Bar.

JE Cooper, R Ewbank, ME Rosenberg. 1984. Euthanasia of tortoises. Veterinary Record, 114, 635.

FL Frye. Euthanasia, necropsy techniques and comparative histology of reptiles. In, Diseases of Amphibians and Reptiles. Eds. GL Hoff, FL Frye, ER Jacobson, Plenum Press, NY.

H Hillman. 1978. Humane killing of animals for medical experiments. World Medical Journal, 25(5):68. Related Article: Notes on Decapitation

Is My Bearded Dragon Dead or Dying? Signs and Death Causes

Losing your bearded dragon or seeing it die is a traumatic experience. A bearded dragon can die of old age, illness, or due to various husbandry mistakes. But is my bearded dragon dead or dying? In this post, we will cover bearded dragon death symptoms and signs, signs of a dying bearded dragon, common causes of bearded dragon death and what to do when your bearded dragon dies.

First of all, how long do bearded dragons live for?

Bearded dragons can live up to 10-15 years in captivity. With very good care, bearded dragons often live at least 7-10 years.

Bearded dragons over 6 years old enter the old stage of their lives. For some bearded dragons, it can be a bit later – at 7-8 years old. At this stage, your bearded dragon will eat much less, sleep more and be generally less active.

Is my bearded dragon dying right now? Symptoms and signs and how to save a bearded dragon

Bearded dragon refusing to eat suddenly and not eating for more than a week not due to brumation

Hiding a lot – especially on a cool side

Acting very lethargic

Losing weight, which shouldn’t happen during brumation

Dull skin, but not shedding

Becoming pale suddenly

Sunken eyes and not fully open eyes – eyes tell a lot about a bearded dragon’s state

Minimal movements and lots of sleeping

Severe panting, digging, glass climbing and trying to escape – overheating signs

Symptoms might differ depending on reasons why your bearded dragon could be dying (see possible reasons below). To save your bearded dragon from dying, you need to recognize the problem and try to fix it as soon as possible. Please don’t blame yourself if the cause was impossible to fix.

1: Refusing to eat due to impaction, stress, sickness etc.

If your bearded dragon has suddenly stopped eating, there can be few reasons. Sudden refusal to eat can be due to impaction. Do you have loose substrate in your bearded dragon’s tank? If yes, replace it with paper towel, reptile carpet like this or tiles immediately.

If your bearded dragon hasn’t pooped in a while and isn’t eating normally, it could be impacted. Give it a few drops of olive, vegetable oil or mineral oil then give baths. Also, feed it some natural laxatives – pumpkin puree, applesauce. Bathing will stimulate pooping.

You must also make sure that you don’t feed bugs or other foods that are larger than the width between the eyes.

Also, your bearded dragon might stop eating due to low temperatures, pain, stress and more.

Read all about reasons why bearded dragons might stop eating here.

2: Overheating

If your bearded dragon is panting a lot (in general panting is fine when a bearded dragon is basking), trying to escape the tank and digging, then it might be too hot.

Extreme heat will cause overheating, stroke and death. Overheating can happen in a small tank, where temperature gradient is impossible to create. It can also happen with incorrect bulbs etc.

Read all about correct lighting and heating here.

3: Losing weight

One of the main causes of weight loss is a parasitic infection. Depending on a parasitic infection, your bearded dragon can start losing weight, will be lethargic, will have runny and smelly poop and even blood in poop.

Most parasitic infections can be treated with medications, but some are not. If you suspect a parasitic infection, please take a fresh sample of your dragon’s poop (less than few hours old) and request a full fecal test. Unfortunately, some infections which can lead to death are Cryptosporidiosis, Yellow fungus disease, Adenovirus infection and more.

If your bearded dragon is losing weight, you can read a full post on possible reasons why.

Is my bearded dragon brumating or dying?

Please note that your bearded dragon might start brumation. Bearded dragons start brumating during colder months of the year, and can go without eating for up to few months without losing any weight!

Brumating bearded dragons mostly sleep, don’t move around much, and don’t eat. Also, bearded dragons start to brumate after reaching 12-18 months old. Brumating bearded dragon will still react to you picking it up and when taking a bath.

Is my bearded dragon dead? Bearded dragon death symptoms

Your bearded dragon is not responsive if you put it on its back or side (dragons can’t breathe properly on their back)

No breathing – however their breathing is very slow when they are sleeping or brumating.

Lack of any movements – bearded dragon is limp and unresponsive

When rigor mortis sets in – a bearded dragon will become stiff

A bearded dragon’s color will change – due to blood pooling (pale on top and can get a black beard and below

Fluids coming out of the nose and mouth

Pupils not reacting at all to bright light – just stay dilated

Bearded dragon not blinking when you touch its eyelids

Jaw looks limp and your dragon doesn’t bite on your finger if you put it inside of its mouth

Eyes rolled back and sunken

Bad smell after few days

Please wait for around 2 days to make sure that your bearded dragon is dead. Try to place it under a basking light, give it a bath and put it on its back to see if it’s alive. If being cool made your bearded dragon become unresponsive, then heat can help bring it back to normal.

If you wish to know for sure, a vet will be able to perform a Doppler ultrasound to check for any blood flow in the body. A vet will also check for a pulse and see if pupils react to light at all.

Why did my bearded dragon die? Possible causes

Impaction

Overheating – small tank, high temperatures

Cold

Parasites or infection, especially Crypto or Adenovirus

Dystocia, or egg binding

Ingesting toxic plants or bugs

Metabolic bone disease

Vitamin toxicity

Stress and bullying

Internal organ failure – gout (kidneys), fatty liver disease, heart etc.

Aneurysm

Accidentally aspirating water or loose substrate and blocking the lungs or choking with food

1: Impaction

Bearded dragons can die of impaction pretty quickly. If ingested substrate or object is small, then it might pass through the digestive tract. But if your dragon is kept on loose substrate such as sand or rocks, it can lead to impaction and death.

Same can happen if you fed it very large bugs. You must also not give your baby bearded dragon under 6-7 months any mealworms, butterworms or superworms. Eating these bugs can cause paralysis and impaction in baby bearded dragons.

Did your dragon experience any back leg paralysis? And did it not poop for a while? Was it refusing to eat? Was it lethargic? These are impaction signs.

2: Overheating

Overheating is actually very dangerous and can kill your bearded dragon quickly by causing dehydration, confusion and stroke.

Common signs of overheating include severe panting, trying to escape the tank, digging, hiding under a rock or hide and sitting in a corner. If you notice that your bearded dragon has overheated, take it out immediately to allow to cool down and review heating in the tank.

High temperatures can be often seen with incorrect lighting+heating or in small tanks. Adult bearded dragons require an at least 40-55 gallon tank to themselves. Baby bearded dragon over a month old already require 30 gallons tanks – so it’s better to get a bigger one straight away.

In this tank, you must create a temperature gradient – a hot and a cool side. However, in smaller tanks, especially for baby dragons, you can’t create a gradient due to lack of space.

Bearded dragons require high temperature basking spots, so this can create a problem in small tanks. Make sure not to use high wattage bulbs in small tanks, or tube lights either. But the most important thing is – your bearded dragon does require a large tank with tube UVB light and heat bulb.

Make sure to use one digital thermometer with a probe like this in a hot spot, and one in a cool spot. Analog stick on thermometers tend to be very inaccurate and can be off by 10 degrees or more. On top of it, please use a handheld infrared thermometer like this and hold it 2-3 inches away from the spot to get accurate temperatures.

Read a full heating and lighting guide here. By reading this post, you can choose correct lighting and heating as well learn about ideal temperatures.

3: Cold

Your bearded dragon can easily die from cold. Bearded dragons are cold-blooded lizards, and they rely fully on outside temperatures to keep themselves warm.

Preferred bearded dragon body temperatures are around 98 F (36.6 C). But for some time, it can be fine if temperatures are lower by even 10 degrees F (around 5 C).

If you keep your bearded dragon in low temperatures for few hours, it will go into brumating state to save itself from dying. With more hours on, your bearded dragon will slowly start to die. This will depend on how low temperatures are.

If there is a power outage in your home or if your dragon’s bulbs burn out, you can keep it warm until you find a solution. You can put your dragon in a blanket, under your shirt, or even use heat packs to keep it warm.

Read about keeping your bearded dragon warm during a power outage or without bulbs here.

4: Parasites or infections

Most parasitic infections can kill a bearded dragon if untreated. However, there are certain parasites or infections that can inevitably lead to wasting and death, even with supportive care. Signs of parasites include weight loss, runny, smelly and even bloody poop, appetite loss, lethargy.

This is especially true for baby bearded dragons, as many sick babies don’t survive at all. If you have got a baby bearded dragon and it died very quickly, it could possibly be a parasitic infection.

This is why getting a slightly older bearded dragon at least will give you a better chance of its survival. Even if this sounds harsh, weak and sick baby bearded dragons mostly don’t make it, even with intensive care. And if you got one that was already sick or infected and it died, don’t blame yourself as it’s natural selection.

However, parasitic infections can kill adult bearded dragons too. Some of the most serious parasites include Cryptosporidium, Adenovirus, CANV (causing Yellow Fungus disease) and more. Other types of infections are bacterial or viral infections – such as meningitis.

If you suspect a parasitic infection in your bearded dragon, please have a full fecal test done. Also, always quarantine your new bearded dragon. This means that you have to keep it separate from other pets and have its poop tested.

With treatment, you can bring your bearded dragon back to normal, but with weak dragons, it might not be enough.

When treating your bearded dragon for parasites, make sure to keep its enclosure extremely clean to prevent reinfection. You can even invest in a steam cleaner like this that will help disinfect a tank and surfaces with a hot pressurized steam.

You can read all about parasitic infections in bearded dragons in this post.

5: Egg-binding, or dystocia

Bearded dragon eggs

Egg-binding happens when a female bearded dragon couldn’t lay her eggs, and they got stuck inside of her. There can be few reasons why a gravid bearded dragon wouldn’t lay her eggs.

One of the reasons is when you don’t make a nesting site for your bearded dragon, and she gets stressed and doesn’t lay them anywhere. Other reasons can include deficiencies, very large eggs and numerous abnormalities in the reproductive tract.

If you suspect that your bearded dragon couldn’t lay her eggs, please take her to the vet for an X-Ray. In case of egg-binding, surgical removal might be required to save your dragon. Dystocia can be fatal.

A female bearded dragon will lay around 2-7 clutches of eggs in one year, and each clutch will consist of 7-40 eggs! This is why it’s important to check if your dragon laid all her eggs by the end of breeding season.

Read all about reproduction in bearded dragons, breeding, eggs and more here.

6: Ingesting toxic plants or bugs

Ingesting toxic plants or bugs can quickly kill your bearded dragon. Unless you realize that your dragon has ingested a toxic plant or bug, your beaded dragon can go ill quickly and die.

Toxic bugs for bearded dragons include fireflies, box elder bugs, lubber grasshoppers and more. There are a lot of toxic plants and veggies, such as avocados, rhubarbs, daffodils, azalea and many more.

Symptoms of poisoning in bearded dragon are lethargy or running around the tank, scratching the belly, black beard, vomiting, seizure or twitching. If you suspect that your bearded dragon has ingested a toxic plant or bug, act immediately. Give your bearded dragon some activated charcoal, to help cleanse the system quickly.

Mix a pinch of charcoal in a 10ml of water, and then offer 0.2 ml to small dragons under 150 grams. You can add extra 0.2 ml for each 150 grams of your bearded dragon’s weight. If you can, also make a cleansing slurry.

If you don’t have any charcoal at home, you can quickly get some at the pharmacy, or instead, you can make a detoxifying slurry. To make a detoxifying slurry, mix cilantro, kale, turnip greens, watercress and add some coconut water for natural electrolytes and hydration.

And you can also add a small drop of diluted charcoal in there, too. Keep offering the slurry with the charcoal every 4-5 hours. The best thing is to take your bearded dragon to the vet, but while getting there, you should make the slurry and offer some activated charcoal.

7: Metabolic bone disease, or MBD

MBD

MBD is a serious illness that is caused by lack or calcium and/or vitamin D in the diet. This can also be caused by lack of UVB lighting in the tank. UVB light helps produce vitamin D, which is also crucial for calcium absorption.

Please make sure to have a UVB tube light that runs 50-70% of the tank, as well gut-load and supplement all the live bugs (apart from Calci-Worms, as they have an ideal Ca:P ratio).

Symptoms of MBD start with tail and back kinking, weakness in limbs, soft bones and jaw, lethargy. Then, you might start seeing twitches, broken bones and more. If you don’t correct the setup or take any action on time, the changes will be irreversible and will lead to slow death.

Please read a guide on lighting here and supplementation here to prevent future mistakes.

8: Vitamin toxicity

Vitamin toxicity is not common, but can happen. Some vitamins and minerals are water soluble, while others – fat soluble. Water soluble vitamins will be excreted with urates if you give too much. But fat soluble vitamins, however, will build up in internal organs and cause toxicity.

Water soluble vitamins include vitamin B, C, while fat soluble ones – vitamin A, D, E, K. The most common vitamin toxicity in bearded dragons is vitamin A or D toxicity. Symptoms of vitamin toxicity include swelling, bloating, vomiting, lethargy, constipation and more. Vitamin D toxicity can also cause kidney failure.

Please read a supplementation guide to see supplement dosages.

9: Stress and bullying

Believe it or not, stress and bullying can slowly kill your bearded dragon. If you house your bearded dragon with other cage mates, it’s highly likely to experience serious stress. Bearded dragons are competitive for food, space, basking spots etc. and there is always an alpha (main) and beta dragon in the group.

Weak bearded dragons don’t get to eat or bask as much and tend to hide more. This with time suppresses the immune system and leads to illnesses. Not even mentioning a high possibility or attacks and injuries.

Make sure to always house your bearded dragons separately. You can only keep hatchlings together for 2-3 weeks, that’s all. Don’t keep even a male and female(s) together, as male will always cause stress to a female.

Read about keeping two or more bearded dragons together in this post.

Additionally, stress caused by various factors will have the similar effect on your bearded dragon. Stress can be caused by loud noises, very bright light, small tank, relocation, poor hygiene and much more. If you don’t eliminate stress factors, your bearded dragon will slowly die.

Read about stress factors and symptoms in bearded dragons here.

10: Internal organ failure

Your bearded dragon can die from organ failure and it can sometimes seem as a sudden death. For example, a bearded dragon can suffer from gout or kidney failure – due to old age, too much protein in the diet, toxicity.

Hepatic lipidosis (fatty liver) can happen in bearded dragons that have been eating too many fatty foods. Liver will store the fat until it can’t function anymore. Other problems with a heart, lungs and other organs can also cause death.

The only way to find out if your bearded dragon had an organ failure would be to take it to the vet and ask to perform a necropsy. This is when a vet would open up the internal organs and will examine them for possible problems that could cause death. But even a necropsy doesn’t always provide answers.

11: Aneurysm

Aneurysm is an enlargement of the arteries in various parts of a bearded dragon’s body. It happens when the blood vessels on the head, limbs, and even back enlarge. The weakened and enlarged vessels are due to weak vessels walls.

The enlarged vessel will look like a swelling and some vets can misdiagnose it with a cyst or abnormal growth. Either way, if untreated, aneurysm will burst and cause internal bleeding in a bearded dragon, leading to death.

Surgery is required to prevent your bearded dragon’s death. However, aneurysms might reoccur after the surgery.

12: Inhaling water or loose substrate, or choking

If your bearded dragon accidentally inhales water or loose substrate in the lungs, it can die very quickly. Unfortunately, if your dragon gets something in its lungs by mistake, there is a small chance that it will survive. A dying bearded dragon will be shaking violently, getting bloated and becoming lethargic.

This is why you must always make sure that water level in a water dish (if you have it) is below your dragon’s ankles. Baby dragons especially can fall in a dish and aspirate water or even drown. Same goes when you are bathing your dragon. And, you must not use any loose substrate in the tank.

Choking might also happen if you offer bugs that are too large (larger than the with between dragon’s eyes). Or, if you haven’t chopped veggies or greens properly.

In some cases, bearded dragon won’t choke, but will get it stuck in the throat. This will cause its beard to enlarge – in this case you might reach and remove the object from the throat with tweezers.

What to do when your bearded dragon dies?

If your bearded dragon has died, you can either take it to a vet for a necropsy, bury it or request cremation. If you choose to bury your dragon, please check if it’s legal before you do it.

Necropsy is opening up of internal organs surgically to find out the possible cause of death. However, necropsy can be a bit expensive and not always give much information on death causes.

If you are having a very hard time and feeling depressed about your bearded dragon’s death, please don’t hesitate to get support or call a hot line to share your emotions. Cremating your bearded dragon might also help to keep your dragon with you after its death.

Thank you for reading this post. Please check out a resource page where you will find lots of useful care articles on bearded dragons.

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