Top 33 How To Keep Skunks Away From Beehives The 7 New Answer

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Once the bees determine the skunk is a threat, they have a larger target — the skunk’s underbelly — to attack. Secondly, you can create a bed of nails or spike strips to deter them. Drive nails into a two-foot-wide piece of plywood that is a little wider than the hive and place it, nail points up, under the entrance.

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How to Protect Your Apiary from Skunks, Raccoons and Mice

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Updating Keep smaller predators — skunks, raccoons, and mice — from raiding and causing damage to your hives. These smaller predators may not cause as much destruction as bears, however, they can trigger your bees to feel unsafe and abscond, taking as much honey as they can carry with them. Learn more!
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Protecting Beehives from Skunks

Protecting Beehives from Raccoons

Protecting Hives from Mice

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A slightly higher voltage can be effective, but there’s another method in common use — get their noses and tongues into the action. A bit of bacon grease or … Learn How to Protect Beehives from Bear, Raccoon & Skunk with an electric net fence and Nite Guard Solar lights.
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Preparing for Unwelcome Visitors in Your Hive Design

Simulating Your Design Checking for Effectiveness

Protecting Against Size and Cleverness

Cost and Construction

How to Protect Beehives from Bear, Raccoon & Skunk

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How to Protect Your Apiary from Skunks, Raccoons and Mice

In our last post, we discussed what you can do to protect your hives from bears. Today, we’re going to look at what you can do to keep smaller predators — skunks, raccoons, and mice — from raiding and causing damage to your hives. These smaller predators may not cause as much destruction as bears, such as ripping the hives apart to get to the honey and bees; however, they can trigger your bees to feel unsafe and abscond in the process, taking as much honey as they can carry with them.

Protecting Beehives from Skunks

Skunks are insect eaters by nature, so a bee is a nice, sweet delicacy. When a skunk finds a hive, it scratches at the entrance, causing the bees to come and investigate. When they do, the skunk snatches them up as a tasty treat.

You’ll know skunks have been visiting your hives when you see scratches on the lower parts of the hive. You’ll also find remnants of bees lying around on the ground outside the hive. This is because skunks often suck on the bees, drawing out the bee’s juicy inner parts, and then spitting out the exoskeleton.

Fortunately, you have a few options when it comes to deterring skunks.

The first is to elevate the hive, placing it on a stand that is several feet above the ground. This forces the skunk to expose its tender underbelly to stings when it stands on its hind legs to gain access to the entrance. Once the bees determine the skunk is a threat, they have a larger target — the skunk’s underbelly — to attack.

Secondly, you can create a bed of nails or spike strips to deter them. Drive nails into a two-foot-wide piece of plywood that is a little wider than the hive and place it, nail points up, under the entrance. Of course, you’ll need to be careful not to step on the nails yourself when you’re working around your hive.

Lastly, you can enclose your apiary with poultry netting. Skunks can’t climb poultry fencing but other pests such as raccoons and weasels can. If you are trying to deter skunks only, the poultry netting doesn’t need to be electrified since they can’t climb it; however, skunks can dig under the fencing.

Protecting Beehives from Raccoons

Raccoons are clever and much smarter than skunks. Raccoons are also strong enough and large enough to take the top off of a hive. To prevent them from removing the tops from your hives, place a heavy rock on top of the hive’s outer cover or secure the top with straps.

Electric netting, such as that used to deter bears, also works to discourage raccoons.

And, just as a bed of nails dissuaded skunks, spike or nail strips work to deter raccoons but must be used on all four sides of the hive to prevent the raccoon from getting to the hive. Carpeting tack boards can also be used to create a spiky deterrent against raccoons and skunks.

Specialty lighting systems are used successfully by many beekeepers. When these lighting systems are installed, they simulate eyes glowing in the dark. The raccoon sees the “glowing eyes” which, to them, may mean bear, skunk or another raccoon, and decides not to chance an encounter with another animal who is “watching” them. These systems use red light which is beyond the bees’ visual spectrum; therefore, it doesn’t bother the bees.

Live traps can be used to capture both raccoons and skunks, but if you catch a skunk, you’ll have a smelly mess to deal with. Live traps do work for some predators, but they work more like a band-aid rather than an actual solution. Plus, you’ll need a location in which to relocate the animal once it has been caught, possibly creating a problem for someone else.

Protecting Hives from Mice

In the fall, mice begin to look for a toasty place to build a nest and call home as cool weather sets in. Although mice won’t harm the bees, they will cause significant damage to the honeycomb, foundation and frames. To prevent mice from entering the hive, install a mouse guard. Mouse guards, or entrance reducers, are an easy fix to prevent mice from entering the hive but have holes large enough for bees to pass through.

Before installing a mouse guard, make sure that a mouse hasn’t already set up residence by “sweeping” the floor of the bottom board with a long stick or coat hanger wire.

How to Protect Beehives from Bear, Raccoon & Skunk

Beehives draw an amazing variety of inquisitive and aggressive visitors. Depending on where you live, your apiary could be the target of skunks, raccoons or even bears seeking the insects and their offspring and the delicious sweet product. If you’re facing some of these critters, count yourself still lucky; some beekeepers also have to fend off honey badgers and elephants. We’ll stick with typical North American and European concerns here, though.

Preparing for Unwelcome Visitors in Your Hive Design

Your defenses shouldn’t be piecemeal; they should be an integral part of your beekeeping plan in order to be most effective and least problematic. Use a bit of storytelling to envision how each defense will work. To design a well-fortified collection of hives, describe the interest, approach and invasion or avoidance of the visitor. For instance, “Drawn by the smell and sound, the skunk slips past the fencing and approaches the elevated hive. As his paws touch the sharp spikes just above the base of the structure, his interest diminishes, and he wanders off.”

Simulating Your Design: Checking for Effectiveness

Make sure that your complete design covers these essential functions:

Keeping the yellow jacket threat down

Protecting guard bee activity

Multiplying your hives in the future

Integrating seasonal changes

Encouraging natural bee routes and behavior

Trace the paths of the hungry lumbering beasts, big and small, that can wreak havoc out of hunger or simple curiosity, and determine how they might respond to your design. Bears, raccoons and skunks each have different ideas of how to attack your hive and what’s tasty in it.

Hives that are frequently visited by predators tend to have agitated, stressed bees. Your ultimate goal is to create a peaceful, deterrent environment that makes your apiary uninteresting to creatures exploring your neighborhood. Here’s what it could include.

Protecting Against Size and Cleverness

Your plans should include both physical barriers to keep aggressive intruders from proceeding and intelligent design that anticipates creative approaches, especially from raccoons.

Creative Fencing

Strong fencing can be effective, but don’t forget that these creatures dig and climb. Your barrier, whether fence, chain links or wire, should go underground far enough to block access, and you should remove tree overhangs.

Spiking

While it won’t stop reckless bear destruction, using carpeting tackboards on the base of the hives, even above mouse guards, can be an effective deterrent for other pests. It may keep raccoons, and especially skunks, from doing much more than scratching a bit before they wander off, and hopefully before the bees get agitated and vulnerable.

Planning for Apiary Growth

Remember that fencing and other major projects should take into account your growth plan for the years to come. You don’t want to wind up crowding the hives or giving predators access to new colonies placed near fences. Also, plan your hive locations so that bees tend to stay local to their home rather than dropping by others along their incoming flight path.

Shock Deterrents for Hairy Visitors

Bears, skunks and raccoons are difficult to deter with shock because their thick fur keeps the power from reaching them. A slightly higher voltage can be effective, but there’s another method in common use — get their noses and tongues into the action. A bit of bacon grease or peanut butter on foil attached to the energized wire can get them sniffing, licking and ruling out any further attention to your hives. Furry visitors feel like they got stung even before they cross the line, and definitely before they develop a taste for the honey.

Vegetation growth can touch the wire and reduce its effectiveness, but don’t just cover the ground below the fence, or you’ll make a great home for wasps right by your hives.

Lights: Daylight Simulation

You can discourage unwelcome visitors with motion detector lights, but white light may have unacceptable effects on bee cycles and behavior.

Lights: Threat Simulation

The NiteGuard solar-powered lighting system is a self-sufficient deterrent that flashes red light beyond the bees’ visual spectrum. If you’ve ever stepped from your yard into the nearby woods at night and seen glowing red lights, you probably know what they mean to bear, skunk and raccoon visitors as well — another creature is watching. “The raccoon approaches and sees eyes glowing in the dark. He decides not to take a chance, and departs.” It’s simple and successful, as proven by many beekeepers.

Cost and Construction

Each of these deterrents can make a big difference in protecting your precious hives. If you haven’t stepped out to find your frames, supers and covers torn apart or invaded and your precious honey producers scattered or devoured, now’s the time to get to work. You can find Nite Guard Solar lights online or at a retailer near you. Give us a call at 1-800-328-6647, or send us an email for specific assistance.

How to Keep Larger Animals Out of Your Beehive Article

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Even healthy bee colonies can run into trouble every now and then. Critters can create problems for your hives. Anticipating such trouble can head off disaster. And if any of these pests get the better of your colony, you’ll need to know what steps to take to prevent things from getting worse.

Defending your beehive from bears

If bears are active in your area (they’re in many states within the continental United States), taking steps to protect your hive from these lumbering marauders is a necessity. If they catch a whiff of your hive, they can do spectacular and heartbreaking damage, smashing apart the hive and scattering frames and supers far and wide. Worse yet, you can be certain that once they’ve discovered your bees, they’ll be back, hoping for a second helping.

The only really effective defense against these huge beasts is installing an electric fence around your apiary. Anything short of this just won’t do the trick.

If you’re ever unlucky enough to lose your bees to bears, be sure to contact your state or local conservation department. You may qualify for remuneration for the loss of your bees. And the department may provide financial assistance for the installation of an electric fence.

$\"image0.jpg\"/$

Raccoons and skunks can wreck hives

Raccoons are clever animals. They easily figure out how to remove the hive’s top to get at the tasty treats inside. Placing a heavy rock on the hive’s outer cover is a simple solution to a pesky raccoon problem.

Skunks are insect eaters by nature. When they find insects that have a sweet drop of honey in the center . . . bonanza! Skunks and their families visit the hive at night and scratch at the entrance until bees come out to investigate. When they do . . . they’re snatched up by the skunk and . . . gulp!

Putting your hive on an elevated stand is an effective solution for skunk invasions. The skunk then must stand on his hind legs to reach the hive’s entrance. That exposes his tender underbelly to the bees.

Another solution is hammering a bunch of nails through a plank of plywood (about two-feet square) and placing it in front of the hive with the nail points sticking up. Like a bed of nails. No more skunks. Just be sure you remember the plank’s there when you go stomping around the hive.

Keeping mice out of your bees

When the nighttime weather starts turning colder in early autumn, mice start looking for appropriate winter nesting sites. A toasty warm hive is a desirable option.

Mice do extensive damage in a hive during the winter. They don’t directly harm the bees, but they destroy comb and foundation and generally make a big mess. They usually leave the hive in early spring, long before the bees break winter cluster and chase them out or sting them to death. Anticipate mouse problems and take these simple steps to prevent them from taking up winter residence in your hive:

As part of winterizing your hive, use a long stick or a wire coat hanger to “sweep” the floor of the bottom board, making sure that no mouse already has taken up residence.

When you’re sure your furry friends are not at home, secure a metal mouse guard along the entrance of the hive.

Using a wooden entrance reducer as a mouse guard doesn’t work. The mouse nibbles away at the wood and makes the opening just big enough to slip through.

$\"Installing$

Installing a metal mouse guard prevents mice from nesting in your hive during winter.

Some birds have a taste for bees

If you think you notice birds swooping at your bees and eating them, you may be right. Some birds have a taste for bees and gobble them up as bees fly in and out of the hive. But don’t be alarmed. The number of bees that you’ll lose to birds probably is modest compared to the hive’s total population. No action need be taken. You’re just witnessing nature’s balancing act.

“,”description”:”

Even healthy bee colonies can run into trouble every now and then. Critters can create problems for your hives. Anticipating such trouble can head off disaster. And if any of these pests get the better of your colony, you’ll need to know what steps to take to prevent things from getting worse.

Defending your beehive from bears

If bears are active in your area (they’re in many states within the continental United States), taking steps to protect your hive from these lumbering marauders is a necessity. If they catch a whiff of your hive, they can do spectacular and heartbreaking damage, smashing apart the hive and scattering frames and supers far and wide. Worse yet, you can be certain that once they’ve discovered your bees, they’ll be back, hoping for a second helping.

The only really effective defense against these huge beasts is installing an electric fence around your apiary. Anything short of this just won’t do the trick.

If you’re ever unlucky enough to lose your bees to bears, be sure to contact your state or local conservation department. You may qualify for remuneration for the loss of your bees. And the department may provide financial assistance for the installation of an electric fence.

$\"image0.jpg\"/$

Raccoons and skunks can wreck hives

Raccoons are clever animals. They easily figure out how to remove the hive’s top to get at the tasty treats inside. Placing a heavy rock on the hive’s outer cover is a simple solution to a pesky raccoon problem.

Skunks are insect eaters by nature. When they find insects that have a sweet drop of honey in the center . . . bonanza! Skunks and their families visit the hive at night and scratch at the entrance until bees come out to investigate. When they do . . . they’re snatched up by the skunk and . . . gulp!

Putting your hive on an elevated stand is an effective solution for skunk invasions. The skunk then must stand on his hind legs to reach the hive’s entrance. That exposes his tender underbelly to the bees.

Another solution is hammering a bunch of nails through a plank of plywood (about two-feet square) and placing it in front of the hive with the nail points sticking up. Like a bed of nails. No more skunks. Just be sure you remember the plank’s there when you go stomping around the hive.

Keeping mice out of your bees

When the nighttime weather starts turning colder in early autumn, mice start looking for appropriate winter nesting sites. A toasty warm hive is a desirable option.

Mice do extensive damage in a hive during the winter. They don’t directly harm the bees, but they destroy comb and foundation and generally make a big mess. They usually leave the hive in early spring, long before the bees break winter cluster and chase them out or sting them to death. Anticipate mouse problems and take these simple steps to prevent them from taking up winter residence in your hive:

As part of winterizing your hive, use a long stick or a wire coat hanger to “sweep” the floor of the bottom board, making sure that no mouse already has taken up residence.

When you’re sure your furry friends are not at home, secure a metal mouse guard along the entrance of the hive.

Using a wooden entrance reducer as a mouse guard doesn’t work. The mouse nibbles away at the wood and makes the opening just big enough to slip through.

$\"Installing$

Installing a metal mouse guard prevents mice from nesting in your hive during winter.

Some birds have a taste for bees

If you think you notice birds swooping at your bees and eating them, you may be right. Some birds have a taste for bees and gobble them up as bees fly in and out of the hive. But don’t be alarmed. The number of bees that you’ll lose to birds probably is modest compared to the hive’s total population. No action need be taken. You’re just witnessing nature’s balancing act.

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C. Marina Marchese is an author, beekeeper, and honey sensory expert. She is also the founder of the American Honey Tasting Society and the Red Bee ^® brand.

Howland Blackiston is the bestselling author of Beekeeping For Dummies and Building Beehives For Dummies, and founding board member and past president of Connecticut’s Back Yard Beekeepers Association.

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C. Marina Marchese is an author, beekeeper, and honey sensory expert. She is also the founder of the American Honey Tasting Society and the Red Bee ^® brand.

Howland Blackiston is the bestselling author of Beekeeping For Dummies and Building Beehives For Dummies, and founding board member and past president of Connecticut’s Back Yard Beekeepers Association.

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Howland Blackiston is the bestselling author of Beekeeping For Dummies and Building Beehives For Dummies, and founding board member and past president of Connecticut’s Back Yard Beekeepers Association.

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