Top 6 How To Knit Socks That Stay Up Top 101 Best Answers

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Do hand knitted socks stay up?

A handknitted sock (especially one made out of wool or other animal fibers) will stretch out over the day. Unless the sock stretches somewhat to fit your foot, this added stretch can cause the sock to become floppy as the day wears on.

How do you knit a sock that lasts?

5+1 tips for knitting socks that last

Knit with good quality yarn. Selecting good quality sock yarn is maybe one of the most important factors. …
Knit denser fabric. Good quality yarn does not help you much if the fabric you make is too loose. …
Reinforce heel and toes. …
Wash correctly. …
Make the socks more fitting.

Is it easier to knit socks top down or tie up?

Cuff-down socks have an easier cast-on.

Because you’re casting on more stitches and doing so in a loop, the cast-on for a pair of cuff-down socks is a bit easier than the cast-on for toe-up socks, where you are casting on a small number of stitches in a straight line and then growing a loop outward.

Are hand knit socks better?

Knitting socks in wool will keep your feet from getting stinky. On the other hand, if you knit your own socks, you can choose the fiber mix that works for you. Wool is antimicrobial, which means less smelly socks. There are cotton blends for those of you who like your feet to be a little cooler.

What is Swiss darning on knitting?

Swiss darning is a way of embroidering a stitch that looks like a knit stitch therefore perfect to work on knitted fabric. It is mostly used to work single motifs or to cover small areas in contrast colour on knitted background. For that reason, it can also be included when working in Fair Isle or Intarsia techniques.

Can you knit socks with 100% wool?

The only real downside to using 100% wool in socks is that they can wear out quicker than socks that contain a synthetic fibre. That’s why most yarn sold as “sock yarn” tends to have a percentage of synthetic fibre, such as nylon or acrylic – it adds extra strength and durability.

How often should you wash hand knit wool socks?

So how often should you wash your wool socks? That depends on how long you wear them per use, the activity, climate, and your own comfort level with re-wearing clothing. I’ve found washing them after 2-3 full days of wear to be a good balance.

How many stitches do you cast on for toe up socks?

The Fingering-Weight Toe-Up Sock for Adults calls for 56 stitches around the cuff for a medium, or 28 stitches on each needle. Find a cable pattern that is 4 or 7 stitches wide, and work it along the top of the foot, knitting the sole of the foot in Stockinette stitch, and then work the cables around the entire cuff.

Can you knit socks on straight needles?

You don’t have to learn how to manage double pointed needles to make a lovely pair of socks. Use regular straight needles to make a pair of socks instead. Knitting socks on straight needles requires some seaming and basic knowledge of knitting techniques.

How long should I knit the foot of a sock?

Knit the cuff to your desired length (1 to 2 inches for anklets, 6 to 8 inches for standard socks). Keep in mind that if you make very long cuffs, it may be necessary to start out with more stitches, because your leg gets wider toward the top.

What needles to use to knit socks?

There are three main different types of knitting needles you can use to knit socks; a set of double pointed needles, a long circular needle with an 80cm cable, or a small circular needle with a 25cm cable.

How do you care for hand knitted socks?

How to Care for Your Special Hand Knit Socks

Do wash your hand knit socks in cool water. …
Don’t wash your knit socks with a ton of agitation. …
Do drip dry your knit socks. …
Don’t go outside in your hand knit socks without putting on shoes, first. …
Do treat your knit socks like normal socks that you can actually wear.

How often should you wash hand knit wool socks?

How do you block hand knitted socks?

Soap And Warm Water: How To Block Your Knitting

Let your socks soak for twenty minutes and then squeeze, don’t wring, them out in a towel. Place them on the sock blockers and hang over your shower rod or if you’re in a hurry, lay them on a towel with a fan pointing on them. One day later, voila!

TUTORIAL: How to KNIT SOCKS

Sock Knitting 101: How a Sock is Supposed to Fit | Interweave

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Most searched keywords: Whether you are looking for Sock Knitting 101: How a Sock is Supposed to Fit | Interweave Updating Learning how to fit a sock in your sock knitting projects is demystified in this very helpful knitting blog on fitting socks the simple way.
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How a Sock is Supposed to Fit

How Sock Knitting Patterns Are Sized

Floreale Socks Knit Pattern Download

Limn Socks Knit Pattern Download

Sterling Silver Socks Knit Pattern Download

Knit Socks that Fit Create Patterns Using Precise Measurements + Gauge Video with Kate Atherley Video Download

Washington State Knee Socks Knitting Pattern Download

Constant Cables Socks Knitting Pattern Download

Sock Knitting 101: How a Sock is Supposed to Fit

I am so disappointed when I knit something that doesn’t fit. Aren’t you? There are some patterns where you don’t have to worry about fit a lot, such as scarves and cowls, but most patterns need a little thought about how they will fit the recipient. Sock knitting is included in that category. Although you may think you need to know just the length of the feet of the person you’re knitting for, you would be wrong. Sorry. Kate Atherley, author of, Custom Socks: Knit to Fit Your Feet, and stars in the video workshop, Knit Socks that Fit, is here to talk in-depth about sock knitting and fitting, and the measurements you’ll need to make them perfect every time.

Shown above: Time Traveler Socks by Jennifer Raymond

Harcourt Socks from Custom Socks by Kate Atherley is written two ways, toe-up or top-down!

Here’s Kate to tell you more about knitting socks that fit.

How a Sock is Supposed to Fit

Yes, it’s true! We’re releasing a whole book on the topic of sock fit. (It’s not just about how to fit a sock, but the book also provides lots of great patterns and tips on how to customize a sock knitting pattern for special fit needs.) Sock fit matters for two reasons: comfort and longevity. If you’re going to go to the trouble of knitting a pair of socks, they should fit you properly. A well-fitted sock is more comfortable to wear and will last much longer. Socks should be worn with a little bit of negative ease—that is, they should be smaller than the foot (and leg) they’re to cover. You want the sock to have to stretch a bit so that it will stay up on your leg and stay in place on your foot. A common problem cited with handknitted socks is that the legs don’t stay up—in many cases, this is simply because the sock is too big.

Marpleridge Socks from Custom Socks

A handknitted sock (especially one made out of wool or other animal fibers) will stretch out over the day. Unless the sock stretches somewhat to fit your foot, this added stretch can cause the sock to become floppy as the day wears on. In addition to feeling uncomfortable, loose floppy socks will move around inside shoes and wear out much quicker due to the added friction. A sock that has to stretch to fit your foot will stay put, feel comfortable, and resist abrasion.

For the best fit, a sock for an adult should measure about 10 percent—practically speaking, that corresponds to about 1” (2.5 cm)—smaller than the actual leg or foot circumference, and about 1/2” (1.3 cm) shorter than the actual foot length. A sock for a child should also measure about 10% smaller in circumference—about 1/2” (1.3 cm) for a foot with a 5” (12.5 cm) circumference—and about 1/4” to 1/2″ (6 mm to 1.3 cm) shorter in length.

If you haven’t been choosing your sock size based on these rules, chances are that you haven’t enjoyed well-fitting socks. Follow these guidelines for your next pair of socks and you’ll find an instant improvement in fit, even if you’re following a standard sock knitting pattern.

How Sock Knitting Patterns Are Sized

The finished size of the majority of sock patterns—whether they’re knitted toe-up or top-down—is based on the foot or ankle circumference. This makes sense—the socks have to fit around the foot and ankle, whereas the foot length and the leg length can be easily adjusted by working more or fewer rounds. When we talk about foot circumference, we mean the measurement taken around the ball of the foot, which is typically the largest circumference, discounting any bunions. You don’t want to include a bunion in this measurement because that bony protuberance typically occupies less than 1″ (2.5 cm), or 10 percent, of the foot circumference or foot length. The inherent stretch in knitted fabric will accommodate this amount of variation.

If you based the sock size on that larger circumference, the sock would be too big for 90 percent of your foot. This is why it’s good to be a knitter—we make a fabric that stretches. A sock with 10 percent negative ease will still stretch to fit comfortably around an area that’s a bit larger. When we talk about ankle circumference, we mean the measurement around the narrowest part of your ankle—usually just above those characteristic rounded bones.

Jarvis Socks from Custom Socks

Most sock patterns assume that the wearer’s foot circumference and ankle circumference are the same. (Note that some sock patterns call this measurement the “leg circumference”—it’s because for the majority of calf-length sock patterns, the circumference of the sock leg is constant from top of cuff to the top of the heel, so either term works.) So, assuming your foot confirms to this standard, you can base your size on either measurement. But, remember that you want to allow for negative ease, so the finished size that you want to follow should be 10 percent—that’s about 1” (2.5 cm) for an adult sock—smaller than your actual foot or ankle circumference.

Not all sock patterns provide the same sizing information. Ideally, you want to know the “finished” measurements or “actual size” of the sock. This will tell you exactly what to expect in the knitted sock. Sizes that are described as “to fit” or “foot size” describe the foot intended to wear the sock, not the actual sock measurements. Unless you know exactly how much (if any) negative ease is allowed, these measurements won’t tell you the actual size of the finished sock.

Choose a size that has about 10 percent negative ease—about 1” (2.5 cm) for an “average” adult sock; about 1/2″ to 1/4″ (6 mm to 1.3 cm) for an “average” child’s sock.

If the sock sizes are given as shoe sizes:

First, check where the pattern was published—shoe sizes differ regionally and a U.S. size 7 shoe is different than a UK size 7 shoe. In general, shoes are designed with the expectation that a longer foot (larger shoe size) corresponds to a larger foot circumference and shoe sizes assume that the foot has an “average” or medium width. If your foot is narrow, you’ll probably find the socks too big; if your foot is wide, you’ll probably find the socks too small.

The only way to know for sure what the finished sock will measure around the foot or leg is to divide the number of stitches in the foot or leg by the number of stitches per inch in the stitch pattern used (assuming the stitch gauge for the pattern used on the foot or leg is provided). For example, if the pattern calls for 68 stitches in the foot or leg and the gauge is 8 stitches per inch (2.5 cm), the finished sock will measure about 8” (20.5 cm) in circumference.

68 stitches ÷ 8 stitches/inch = 8.5″

Be careful. The typical assumption is that foot circumference increases proportionally with foot length. But the relationship isn’t this simple. If the pattern doesn’t include the finished foot or leg circumference, you’ll want to calculate it yourself based on the number of stitches and the gauge. If you can’t find (or calculate) the finished measurement, these patterns are best avoided.

If the sock sizes are given as standard names, “small,” “medium,” “large”:

Again, be careful—if there’s no indication of the actual size, you can’t be sure of what you’ll get unless you can calculate the finished measurement from the stitch count and gauge.

If the sock only has one size:

Beware—one size does not fit all! Unless the finished measurement is also given, there’s no way to know how it will fit unless there’s enough information for you to calculate the finished measurement yourself. All of this is to say that you need to know your measurements and the finished measurements of the sock—foot and leg circumference and foot and leg lengths—to know if a knitted sock is going to fit.

—Kate Atherley

This info is so helpful. I don’t knit a lot of socks, and part of the reason why is that they haven’t fit me properly. They are either too tight on the calf or I have to really tug them over my heel to get them on. So I choose my store-bought socks over my handknits, which is super sad, right?

Kate is a sock knitting superstar, and her new resources are must-haves if you’re a sock knitter or you want to become one. Start knitting socks that fit with Kate! Her wonderful video workshop, Knit Socks that Fit: Create Patterns Using Precise Measurements and Gauge, is available as a video download.

I know I’ll be using these references and patterns. Here’s to socks that fit!

Cheers,

Kathleen

Originally posted on July 15, 2015; updated on March 28, 2022.

Get started on your dream socks!

5+1 Tips for Knitting Socks That Last

1. Knit with good quality yarn

Selecting good quality sock yarn is maybe one of the most important factors. If the durability is the number one factor for you I suggest that you select a rough, highly twisted wool yarn that is reinforced with nylon (polyamide). Soft wools such as merino wear out a lot quicker than rougher ones.

Also selecting a little bit thicker yarn makes the fabric more durable. If you are used to knitting your socks with fingering weight yarn you might want to consider sport weight or light DK weight yarn.

One of my favorite sock yarns is the Novita Nalle and one pair made with it usually lasts for years.

Knitting Toe-Up Socks vs. Cuff-Down Socks: Which is Best?

Until recently, I never paid much attention to the knitting toe-up socks vs. cuff-down socks debate.

When I decided to learn to knit toe-up socks this month, I already had a little bit of a bias. I’d tried toe-up socks before, and I knew I’d had a frustrating experience. I’d also been knitting cuff-down socks for over a decade, so I knew what I liked and was used to.

But knitting, for me, is about growth and learning as much as it is about having cozy things. I knew I wanted to learn toe-up socks, so I gritted my teeth and went for it.

If you’re like me, you might be trying to figure out whether it’s time to try a new sock technique, too. Maybe you’ve never knit socks before at all.

In case you’re new here, I’ll tip my hand: I believe knitting is a personal process. As a result, there’s rarely a right or wrong way to do things. Does it get you the knit item you want? Then you did it right.

So this post isn’t geared toward telling you which sock construction method is the objective best. That’s because I don’t believe there is an objective best. What it can do, though, is help you sift through some of the pros and cons of each technique. That’ll help you decide which one meets your needs.

Because knitting toe-up socks vs. cuff-down socks is something we all need to decide for ourselves.

What are toe-up socks good for?

1. They help use up scraps effectively.

I’m primarily a cuff-down knitter, and because I have medium-sized feet, I usually only use about 2/3 of a skein of sock yarn for each pair. That means I have a lot of leftovers, and because I’m pretty consistent in the colors I choose, I have a lot of leftovers that coordinate.

I’ve been ogling Louise Tilbrook’s scrappy socks for years, now. Louise uses leftovers to make socks and blankets, and the stripes are always a cheerful combo. When you knit those scrappy socks from the toe up, you don’t have to worry about running out of yarn before you finish the sock. As long as you have enough to knit the foot through the heel, you can finish with a cuff and cast-off as soon as you run out of yarn.

A tip for this one: weigh your yarn and divide it into two balls, one for each sock, before you start knitting.

2. They avoid having to graft the toe.

A lot of cuff-down sock patterns have a wedge toe with grafting at the end, and a lot of people really dislike grafting. It can be fiddly, and the instructions can be hard to remember. Grafting isn’t something I struggle with, but I struggle with multi-step processes generally, so I get it.

But if you work your sock from the toe-up, there’s no grafting involved. Instead, you cast on at the toe, work your way to the cuff, and then cast off.

3. Some stitch patterns only work in one direction.

Many stitch patterns look the same from the top and the bottom, but not all of them. Lace patterns, in particular, are notorious for only looking right in one direction.

That means, if you have a lace motif that you want flowing from the toe upward toward the cuff instead of down from the cuff to the toe, you might need to work that sock from the toe up.

What are the drawbacks of toe-up socks?

1. It’s harder to do a heel flap and gusset on a toe-up sock.

In the traditional cuff-down sock, a heel flap and gusset is fairly straightforward. You knit a square jutting off from the leg, turn the heel, pick up stitches along the heel flap, and decrease to form the gusset. This gives you a nice, snug fit.

But with toe-up socks, you’re approaching the heel from the opposite direction. That means you’ll need to work increases first to form the gusset, the turn the heel, then work the heel flap.

That’s not an impossible task, of course, but it can be a bit of a tussle. If you’re curious to try it, Kate Atherley did a great tutorial over on the Modern Daily Knitting blog.

2. The cast-on for a toe-up sock can be fiddly.

The three most common cast-ons for toe-up socks seem to be the Turkish cast-on, the figure-eight cast-on, and Judy’s Magic Cast-On. I’ll be honest: after a decade of trying and plenty of experience mastering other tricky techniques, I still can’t get the dang Turkish cast-on to work.

Thankfully, Judy’s Magic Cast-On works just fine for me, but getting the stitches onto the needles is only the first part. Growing the toe from that single cast-on line of stitches can be a challenge, too. I’m sure with more practice, this will feel less frustrating. For now, though, I spend a lot of time wrangling tight stitches and wrinkling my brow.

3. Some people struggle with the bind-off for toe-up socks.

Because the cuff of your sock is the finish point for toe-up socks, you need to make sure your bind-off is nice and stretchy. It has to be loose enough to get over your heel but elastic enough to hold the sock up once the sock is on. That can be a challenge. My current favorite bind-off involves knitting two stitches and then knitting them together through the back loop, but I’m still exploring options. Elizabeth Zimmerman’s sewn bind-off is also popular.

Why might someone prefer cuff-down socks?

1. Cuff-down socks have an easier cast-on.

Because you’re casting on more stitches and doing so in a loop, the cast-on for a pair of cuff-down socks is a bit easier than the cast-on for toe-up socks, where you are casting on a small number of stitches in a straight line and then growing a loop outward.

I use the trusty old long-tail cast-on for my cuff-down socks, but just about any cast-on method will work. Some knitters like to make sure they use an extra stretchy cast-on method, but I find that casting on loosely works just fine for me.

2. The heel flap and gusset are more intuitive on a cuff-down sock.

On a cuff-down sock, the heel flap really is a flap. You just work rows back and forth across one half of your sock for a specific number of rows. That makes it a little more straightforward than the construction methods for a toe-up sock, and because the heel flap and gusset are the best way to get a snug fit if you have a high instep, this is a factor worth considering.

3. This is an older method, so there are more patterns written for cuff-down socks.

Cuff-down socks predate toe-up socks, so more knitters are familiar with them and more designers have had time to write patterns for them. While toe-up socks aren’t new, they are still less popular than the traditional cuff-down construction. As of the date of this blog post, there are about 43,000 sock patterns on Ravelry, but only about 9,500 of those have been tagged as having a toe-up construction.

Where do cuff-down socks fall short?

1. Cuff-down socks can be tricky for yarn usage.

As I mentioned above, I end up with a LOT of leftovers for my cuff-down socks. That’s partly because my feet aren’t very big. For other knitters, however, that can be driven by difficulty estimating how much yarn they’ll need.

Many newer sock knitters are tempted to skimp on the cuff length. That’s caused by a (totally reasonable!) fear of reaching the end of the foot and running out of yarn before the sock is finished. While you do eventually get the hang of estimating how long you can make your cuff without running out of yarn for the foot, there’s always a little room for something to go wrong.

2. If you don’t like grafting, you might not like cuff-down socks.

Most cuff-down socks feature a wedge toe. Generally, that means you’ll decrease the foot until you have 20-28ish stitches left, then stitch them together. There are grafting methods that create a seamless closure, so you don’t feel them against your toe, but they can be tricky for some knitters.

Of course, there are other sock toe constructions out there! I’m a fan of the star toe and the round toe. The comfort of these shapes, though, is very much affected by the shape of your natural toes. You may find that a wedge toe just fits your feet better, in which case, you’ll be grafting if you work cuff-down. Most toe-up socks have the wedge toe shape without the grafting. They achieve that shape using increases from the cast-on at the toe.

3. Cuff-down socks are the traditional way of making socks.

If you chafe at doing things the same way everyone else does, you might find yourself getting annoyed with cuff-down socks. Everyone and their great-great-grandma seems to have learned to knit socks this way. If you’re interested in showing off a new technique, cuff-down socks probably aren’t going to be the style for you.

So you have finished reading the how to knit socks that stay up topic article, if you find this article useful, please share it. Thank you very much. See more: how to knit toe up socks, how to measure for knit socks, toe-up sock heel flap, toe-up socks heel, free toe up sock pattern, toe-up socks cast on, how many stitches to cast on for socks, when to start gusset on toe-up socks

Top 6 How To Knit Socks That Stay Up Top 101 Best Answers

Do hand knitted socks stay up?

How do you knit a sock that lasts?

Is it easier to knit socks top down or tie up?

Are hand knit socks better?

What is Swiss darning on knitting?

Can you knit socks with 100% wool?

How often should you wash hand knit wool socks?

How many stitches do you cast on for toe up socks?

Can you knit socks on straight needles?

How long should I knit the foot of a sock?

What needles to use to knit socks?

How do you care for hand knitted socks?

How often should you wash hand knit wool socks?

How do you block hand knitted socks?

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Knitting Toe-Up Socks vs. Cuff-Down Socks: Which is Best? – A Bee In The Bonnet

Sock Knitting 101: How a Sock is Supposed to Fit | Interweave

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