Top 48 How To Mitigate Radon In A Crawl Space Trust The Answer

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Crawl space encapsulation is the first step in reducing radon levels. Crawl spaces should be sealed and encapsulated with a continuous vapor barrier, like the premium CleanSpace liner and crawl space encapsulation system from Basement Systems. Encapsulating the crawl space reduces the migration of radon into the air.Active subslab suction — also called subslab depressurization — is the most common and usually the most reliable radon reduction method. One or more suction pipes are inserted through the floor slab into the crushed rock or soil underneath. They also may be inserted below the concrete slab from outside the home.In some cases, radon levels can be lowered by ventilating the crawlspace passively, or actively, with the use of a fan. Crawlspace ventilation may lower indoor radon levels both by reducing the home’s suction on the soil and by diluting the radon beneath the home.

Other Ways to Reduce Radon

Increase air flow in your house by opening windows and using fans and vents to circulate air. …
Seal cracks in floors and walls with plaster, caulk, or other materials designed for this purpose.

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What is the most common method of radon mitigation?

Active subslab suction — also called subslab depressurization — is the most common and usually the most reliable radon reduction method. One or more suction pipes are inserted through the floor slab into the crushed rock or soil underneath. They also may be inserted below the concrete slab from outside the home.

How can the build up of radon be reduced?

Other Ways to Reduce Radon

Increase air flow in your house by opening windows and using fans and vents to circulate air. …
Seal cracks in floors and walls with plaster, caulk, or other materials designed for this purpose.

Can a fan help reduce radon?

In some cases, radon levels can be lowered by ventilating the crawlspace passively, or actively, with the use of a fan. Crawlspace ventilation may lower indoor radon levels both by reducing the home’s suction on the soil and by diluting the radon beneath the home.

Should I seal my crawl space?

Yes, you should. All crawl spaces should be completely sealed and isolated from moisture in the air and from the ground.

What time of year are radon levels highest?

The reason that radon levels in the home can be higher in the summer and winter is two-fold. During the winter, the air in your home tends to be much warmer than the outside air, and this temperature difference creates a vacuum within your home.

Is it OK to live in a house with radon?

Radon is the second leading cause of lung cancer after cigarette smoking. If you smoke and live in a home with high radon levels, you increase your risk of developing lung cancer. Having your home tested is the only effective way to determine whether you and your family are at risk of high radon exposure.

Does radon go through concrete?

Radon, soil gasses, and water vapor will easily pass through any openings, cracks, gaps, drains, or thin concrete (rat slabs) in the basement.

Should I walk away from a house with radon?

Radon-related deaths are due to exposure over the course of a lifetime. “You should definitely take it seriously but you really don’t need to walk away from the home. It’s actually pretty easy to remove radon, and it’s not that expensive,” Consumer Reports Home Editor Paul Hope said.

Which of the following is an appropriate remediation strategy for removing radon gas from the home?

Which of the following is an appropriate remediation strategy for removing radon gas from the home? e. Seal or ventilate places where radon enters the living space. Which of the following is true of the Clean Air Act?

Does a dehumidifier help with radon?

No, buying a dehumidifier will not make radon go away. Research conducted by the US Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has clearly disproved this idea.

Does opening a window reduce radon?

As a temporary solution, however, you can reduce radon levels simply by opening windows. Opening windows improves air circulation and ventilation, helping move radon out of the house and mixing radon-free outside air with indoor air. Make sure all your basement windows are open.

Does running furnace fan reduce radon?

In many homes, blowing air in through an existing central furnace is quite practical. The use of an exhaust fan to pull air out of the house may decease the interior air pressure and draw more radon inside.

Should a crawl space be vented or sealed?

Because much of the air you breathe in your home comes directly from your crawl space, most contractors today agree that the crawl space should be treated as part of your living area—in other words, it should be sealed, insulated and kept free of moisture.

Is encapsulating a crawl space a good idea?

Avoids Structural Damage

Moisture in your crawl space will only lead to structural damage over time. The vapor within the crawl space can rot your home’s wooden frames and flooring. Encapsulating the crawl space keeps away moisture. In addition, encapsulation helps keep dangerous pests like termites out.

Should I put a dehumidifier in my crawl space?

Moisture can build-up inside the crawl space from duct-work condensation, ground moisture evaporation, high outdoor humidity, and more. The dehumidifier is needed to condition the crawl space and ensure healthy humidity levels are kept all year.

What type of pipe is used for radon mitigation?

Typically 3″ pipe or 4″ pipe is used for radon mitigation systems. The EPA radon mitigation standards require the PVC pipe be schedule 40. This is due in part to the schedule 40 pipe being more rigid, and sound absorbent. 3″ pvc pipe is often used for systems that require a higher suction.

Will opening the basement windows before a radon test lower the results?

Unfortunately, no, opening the windows does not reduce radon. It is not a gas that will just permanently escape the home like smoke from something burning in the oven. The radon may seem to leave when the windows are open, but as soon as they are closed, it is back.

Which of the following is an appropriate remediation strategy for removing radon gas from the home?

Will an air exchanger reduce radon?

While an air exchanger typically isn’t installed as a radon mitigation system, a running air exchanger will reduce radon levels in the home*, because stale indoor air is replaced with fresh outdoor air. * This assumes the unit has been properly installed and properly maintained.

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What is Radon Mitigation?

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What is Radon Mitigation?

What is Radon Mitigation?

You have tested your home for radon, but now what? This information is for people who have tested their home for radon and confirmed that they have elevated radon levels — 4 pCi/L or higher. The following steps can help you reduce radon in your home: Select a qualified radon mitigation contractor to reduce the radon levels in your home.

Determine an appropriate radon reduction method.

Maintain your radon reduction system.

Radon reduction systems work.

Some radon reduction systems can reduce radon levels in your home by up to 99 percent. Most homes can be fixed for about the same cost as other common home repairs. Your costs may vary depending on the size and design of your home and which radon reduction methods are needed. Hundreds of thousands of people have reduced radon levels in their homes.

The New York State Department of Health and U.S. Environmental Protection Agency recommend that you have a qualified radon mitigation contractor fix your home because lowering high radon levels requires specific technical knowledge and special skills. Without the proper equipment or technical knowledge, you could actually increase your radon level or create other potential hazards and additional costs. However, if you decide to do the work yourself, get information on appropriate training courses and technical guidance documents from the New York State Department of Health Radon Program.

Select a qualified radon mitigation contractor.

Choose a contractor to fix a radon problem just as you would choose someone to do other home repairs. It is wise to get more than one estimate, to ask for references, and to contact some of those references to ask if they are satisfied with the contractors’ work.

New York State Department of Health does not regulate radon services. Ask the contractor if they hold a professional proficiency or certification credential, and if they follow industry consensus standards such as the American Society for Testing and Materials, ASTM, Standard Practice for Installing Radon Mitigation Systems in Existing Low-Rise Residential Buildings, E2121.

Evaluate and Compare Contractors Ask the following questions and then use this checklist when evaluating and comparing contractors: YES NO Question Will the contractor provide references or photographs, as well as test results of before and after radon levels of past radon reduction work? Can the contractor explain what the work will involve, how long it will take to complete, and exactly how the radon reduction system will work? Does the contractor charge a fee for any diagnostic tests? Although many contractors give free estimates, they may charge for diagnostic tests. These tests help determine what type of radon reduction system should be used and in some cases are necessary, especially if the contractor is unfamiliar with the type of home structure or the anticipated degree of difficulty. See “Radon Reduction Techniques” for more on diagnostic tests. Did the contractor inspect your home’s structure before giving you an estimate? Did the contractor review the quality of your radon measurement results and determine if appropriate testing procedures were followed?

Compare Contractors’ Costs Compare the contractors’ proposed costs and consider what you will get for your money, taking into account: a less expensive system may cost more to operate and maintain; a less expensive system may have less aesthetic appeal; a more expensive system may be best for your home; and, the quality of the building material will affect how long the system lasts. YES NO Does the contractor’s proposal and estimate include? Proof of professional proficiency or certification credentials? Proof of liability insurance and being bonded, and having all necessary licenses to satisfy local requirements? Diagnostic testing prior to design and installation of a radon reduction system? Installation of a warning device to caution you if the radon reduction system is not working correctly? Testing after installation to make sure the radon reduction system works well? (The New York State Department of Health Radon Program will provide a free radon test kit within one year of a radon mitigation system being installed in your home.) A guarantee to reduce radon levels to 4 pCi/L or below. And if so, for how long?

The Contract Ask the contractor to prepare a contract before any work starts. Carefully read the contract before you sign it. Make sure everything in the contract matches the original proposal. The contract should describe exactly what work will be done prior to and during the installation of the system, what the system consists of, and how the system will operate. Many contractors provide a guarantee that they will adjust or modify the system to reach a negotiated radon level. Carefully read the conditions of the contract describing the guarantee. Carefully consider optional additions to your contract which may add to the initial cost of the system, but may be worth the extra expense. Typical options might include an extended warranty, a service plan and/or improved aesthetics. Verified Does the Contract Include? The total cost of the job, including all taxes and permit fees; how much, if any, is required for a deposit; and when payment is due in full. The time needed to complete the work. An agreement by the contractor to obtain necessary permits and follow required building codes. A statement that the contractor carries liability insurance and is bonded and insured to protect you in case of injury to persons, or damage to property, while the work is done. A guarantee that the contractor will be responsible for damage and cleanup after the job. Details of any guarantee to reduce radon below a negotiated level. Details of warranties or other optional features associated with the hardware components of the mitigation system. A declaration stating whether any warranties or guarantees are transferable if you sell your home. A description of what the contractor expects the homeowner to do, such as make the work area accessible, before work begins.

Types of Radon Mitigation

In homes that have a basement or a slab-on-grade foundation, radon is usually reduced by one of four types of soil suction:

subslab suction

drain-tile suction

sump-hole suction

block-wall suction

Subslab Suction Active Subslab Suction Active subslab suction — also called subslab depressurization — is the most common and usually the most reliable radon reduction method. One or more suction pipes are inserted through the floor slab into the crushed rock or soil underneath. They also may be inserted below the concrete slab from outside the home. The number and location of suction pipes that are needed depends on how easily air can move in the crushed rock or soil under the slab and on the strength of the radon source. Often, only a single suction point is needed. A contractor usually gets this information from visual inspection, from diagnostic tests, and/or from experience. A radon vent fan connected to the suction pipes draws the radon gas from below the home and releases it into the outdoor air while simultaneously creating a negative pressure or vacuum beneath the slab. Common fan locations include unconditioned home and garage spaces, including attics, and the exterior of the home. Passive Subslab Suction Passive subslab suction is the same as active subslab suction except it relies on natural pressure differentials and air currents instead of a fan to draw radon up from below the home. Passive subslab suction is usually associated with radon-resistant features installed in newly constructed homes. Passive subslab suction is generally not as effective in reducing high radon levels as active subslab suction.

Drain-Tile Suction Some homes have drain tiles or perforated pipe to direct water away from the foundation of the home. Suction on these tiles or pipes is often effective in reducing radon levels.

Sump-Hole Suction One variation of subslab and drain tile suction is sump-hole suction. Often, when a home with a basement has a sump pump to remove unwanted water, the sump can be capped so that it can continue to drain water and serve as the location for a radon suction pipe.

Block-Wall Suction Block-wall suction can be used in basement homes with hollow block foundation walls. This method removes radon and depressurizes the block wall, similar to subslab suction. This method is often used in combination with subslab suction.

Crawlspace Ventilation In some cases, radon levels can be lowered by ventilating the crawlspace passively, or actively, with the use of a fan. Crawlspace ventilation may lower indoor radon levels both by reducing the home’s suction on the soil and by diluting the radon beneath the home. Passive ventilation in a crawlspace is achieved by opening vents, or installing additional vents. Active ventilation uses a fan to blow air through the crawlspace instead of relying on natural air circulation. In colder climates, for either passive or active crawlspace ventilation, water pipes, sewer lines and appliances in the crawlspace may need to be insulated against the cold. These ventilation options could result in increased energy costs for the home. An effective method to reduce radon levels in crawlspace homes involves covering the earth floor with a high-density plastic sheet. A vent pipe and fan are used to draw the radon from under the sheet and vent it to the outdoors. This form of soil suction is called submembrane suction, and when properly applied is the most effective way to reduce radon levels in crawlspace homes. Another less-favorable option is active crawlspace depressurization which involves drawing air directly from the crawlspace using a fan. This technique generally does not work as well as submembrane suction and requires special attention to combustion appliance backdrafting and sealing the crawlspace from other portions of the home, and may also result in increased energy costs due to loss of conditioned air from the home.

Additional Radon Reduction Techniques

Other radon reduction techniques that can be used in any type of home include:

sealing

home or room pressurization

heat recovery ventilation

natural ventilation

Sealing Sealing cracks and other openings in the foundation is a basic part of most approaches to radon reduction. Sealing the cracks limits the flow of radon into your home, thereby making other radon reduction techniques more effective and cost-efficient. It also reduces the loss of conditioned air. EPA does not recommend the use of sealing alone to reduce radon because, by itself, sealing has not been shown to lower radon levels significantly or consistently. It is difficult to identify and permanently seal the places where radon is entering. Normal settling of your home opens new entry routes and reopens old ones.

Home or Room Pressurization Home or room pressurization uses a fan to blow air into the basement, or living area from either upstairs or outdoors. It attempts to create enough pressure at the lowest level indoors — in a basement, for example — to prevent radon from entering into the home. The effectiveness of this technique is limited by home construction, climate, other appliances in the home and occupant lifestyle. In order to maintain enough pressure to keep radon out, the doors and windows at the lowest level must not be left open, except for normal entry and exit. This approach generally results in more outdoor air being introduced into the home, which can cause moisture intrusion and energy penalties. Consequently, this technique should only be considered after the other, more-common techniques have not sufficiently reduced radon.

Heat Recovery Ventilation A heat recovery ventilator, or HRV, also called an air-to-air heat exchanger, can be installed to increase ventilation which will help reduce the radon levels in your home. An HRV will increase ventilation by introducing outdoor air while using the heated or cooled air being exhausted to warm or cool the incoming air. HRVs can be designed to ventilate all or part of your home, although they are more effective in reducing radon levels when used to ventilate only the basement. If properly balanced and maintained, they ensure a constant degree of ventilation throughout the year. HRVs also can improve air quality in homes that have other indoor pollutants. There could be significant increase in the heating and cooling costs with an HRV, but not as great as ventilation without heat recovery.

Natural Ventilation Some natural ventilation occurs in all homes. By opening windows, doors, and vents on the lower floors you increase the ventilation in your home. This increase in ventilation mixes outdoor air with the indoor air containing radon, and can result in reduced radon levels. However, once windows, doors and vents are closed, radon concentrations most often return to previous values within about 12 hours. Natural ventilation in any type of home should normally be regarded as only a temporary radon reduction approach because of the following disadvantages: loss of conditioned air and related discomfort; greatly increased costs of conditioning additional outside air; and security concerns.

Radon in Water

Radon in water is usually not the primary source of radon in the home. If a radon in air mitigation system appears not to be reducing radon levels, then radon in water may be evaluated as a pathway. Presently there is no guideline or recommended action level for radon in water concentration. Radon in water may pose an inhalation risk. This risk results when radon is released into the air when water is used for showering and other household purposes. Approaches to mitigate radon in water are aeration or filtration using granular activated carbon.

Checking Your Contractor’s Work

Below is a list of basic installation requirements that your contractor should meet when installing a radon reduction system in your home. It is important to verify with your contractor that the radon mitigation standards (ASTM E2121 in particular) are properly met to ensure that your radon reduction system will be effective. You can also check with your state radon office to see if there are state requirements that your contractor must meet.

Verified Basic Installation Requirements Radon reduction systems must be clearly labeled. This will avoid accidental changes to the system that could disrupt its function. The exhaust pipes of soil suction systems must vent above the surface of the roof and 10 feet or more above the ground, and must be at least 10 feet away from windows, doors, or other openings that could allow the radon to reenter the home, if the exhaust pipes do not vent at least 2 feet above these openings. The exhaust fan must not be located in or below a livable area. For instance, it should be installed in unconditioned space. If installing an exhaust fan outside, the contractor must install a fan that meets local building codes for exterior use. Electrical connections of all active radon reduction systems must be installed according to local electrical codes. A warning device must be installed to alert you if an active system stops working properly. Examples of system failure warning devices are: a liquid gauge, a sound alarm, a light indicator, and a dial, or needle display, gauge. The warning device must be placed where it can be seen or heard easily. Your contractor should check that the warning device works. Later on, if your monitor shows that the system is not working properly, call a contractor to have it checked. A post-mitigation radon test should be done within 30 days of system installation, but no sooner than 24 hours after your system is in operation with the fan on, if it has one. The contractor may perform a post-mitigation test to check his work and the initial effectiveness of the system; however, it is recommended that you also get an independent follow-up radon measurement. Having an independent tester perform the test, or conducting the measurement yourself, will eliminate any potential conflict of interest. To test the system’s effectiveness, a two- to seven-day measurement is recommended. Test conditions: windows and doors must be closed 12 hours before and during the test, except for normal entry and exit. Make sure your contractor completely explains your radon reduction system, demonstrates how it operates and explains how to maintain it. Ask for written operating and maintenance instructions and copies of any warranties.

Installation and Operating Costs

Reduce Radon Levels in Your Home

When You Should Take Action First, test your home radon level. The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) recommends contacting a qualified professionalexternal icon to install a radon reduction (also called radon mitigation) system if your home radon level is at or above 4 pCi/L of air. These are fixes to your home to lower the radon level. EPA also recommends taking action to reduce radon if your home radon level is from 2 pCi/L through 4 pCi/L. If you are buying a new home, ask about including radon-resistant featuresexternal icon to help prevent or minimize radon entering your home and the need to install a more costly system in the future. If you smoke, quitting is still the best way to reduce your risk of lung cancer. Call 1-800-QUIT-NOW or visit CDC.gov/quit for free support and resources to help you quit smoking.

Radon Reduction System

Radon reduction system

Photo courtesy of Protect Environmental

Contact your state radon office or one of EPA’s national radon proficiency programs to find a qualified professionalexternal icon to fix your home. Lowering high radon levels requires technical knowledge and special skills. Contractors who do not specialize in radon reduction could make the problem worse.

There are several proven methods to reduce radon in your home, but the one most used has a vent pipe system and fan, which pulls radon from beneath the house and vents it to the outside. This system, known as a soil depressurization system, does not require major changes to your home. Sealing foundation cracks and other openings makes this kind of system more effective and cost-efficient. Similar systems can also be installed in houses with crawl spaces. The right system depends on the design of your home and other factors like whether your home has a basement.

After installing a radon reduction system, test your home again to make sure it is working and consider retesting your home every two years to be sure radon levels remain low. Also retest your home after any remodeling.

Other Ways to Reduce Radon

If your radon levels are not above 4 pCi/L here are a few things you can do to keep radon levels as low as possible in your home:

Increase air flow in your house by opening windows and using fans and vents to circulate air. Natural ventilation in any type of house should not be considered radon mitigation since it is only a temporary strategy to reduce radon.

Seal cracks in floors and walls with plaster, caulk, or other materials designed for this purpose.

Always test radon levels again after you’ve made any of these changes.

Costs to Reduce Radon

The cost of reducing radon in your home depends on how your home was built and the extent of the radon problem, so the cost to fix it can vary widely. However, most homes can be fixed for about the same cost as other common home repairs. Contact your state radon officeexternal icon for more information, or get one or more estimates from qualified contractorsexternal icon.

Additional Resources

Environmental Protection Agency’s Consumer’s Guide to Radon Reduction pdf icon[PDF – 413 KB]external icon

This Is Why You Should Seal Your Crawl Space

When it comes to home performance, uncontrolled moisture is a real concern. Life along Maryland’s Eastern Shore includes a lot of moisture, especially during the warm, humid summer months. And because moisture comes from the air and from the earth, one of the most common places for moisture to collect and do its worst is in the crawl space.

“Ok, but should I seal my crawl space?” you ask. Yes, you should. All crawl spaces should be completely sealed and isolated from moisture in the air and from the ground. Here’s why.

The Problem with Your Crawl Space

An unsealed crawl space becomes a haven to all kinds of undesirable conditions, which is why crawl spaces have earned such a bad name. Left alone, a crawl space can become a homeowner’s nightmare, sending horrors upward toward your living area that you may not even be aware of.

Moisture

Moisture creates opportunities for mold and mildew growth. Mold degrades your indoor air quality, creating an environment that is extremely unhealthy for you and your family. Moisture also leads to rot, which will degrade your wood structure and warp floorboards. If you are experiencing moisture or humidity issues throughout your Maryland home be sure to speak with us about one of our Moisture & Humidity Assessments.

Insects and Rodents

An unsealed crawl space attracts insect and rodent infestations.

Energy Inefficiency

An untreated crawl space lets conditioned air out while allowing outdoor air in. Your heating and cooling systems must work overtime to compensate, and you’ll still feel cold floors and uneven temperatures in your home. It’s hard on your systems and burns more fuel, resulting in higher utility bills.

Improve Your Whole Home with Crawl Space Encapsulation

With our years of experience, we know exactly how crawl spaces can help or harm a home. At Total Home Performance, we know just what to do to create a clean, dry space that you can live with.

1. Inspection

Every crawl space is unique, so before crawl space encapsulation, we’ll inspect the area for insects or pests, as well as any groundwater situations and ensure these are addressed first.

2. Air Sealing & Insulation

It was once thought that crawl spaces should be vented to allow moisture to move out of the area. However, these vents allow just as much moisture to move in, and its presence is detrimental to your home. This is why we air seal the entire space and install insulation to keep air and heat from moving freely through your crawl space.

3. Vapor Barrier

After cleaning and sealing the area, we apply a sturdy vapor barrier to the floor and walls, ensuring a good fit around pipes, vents and plumbing.

4. Dehumidifier

Last, a crawl space dehumidifier ensures the air in the crawl space stays at a constant and acceptable humidity level at all times.

5. French Drain Installation

If water is a seasonal or consistent issue with your crawlspace, waterproofing the space with an exterior french drain installation is likely needed.

As always, the experts at Total Home Performance will assess your particular situation and needs and present you with the best solution–all while being the only contractor on the Eastern Shore able to offer Home Performance with ENERGY STAR® rebates for crawl space services.

Total Home Performance: Crawl Space Experts

If you’re ready to have your crawl space encapsulated, the certified professionals at Total Home Performance are ready to help. We’ll help you and your family enjoy the benefits for years to come with a lower utility bills and a healthier, safer and more comfortable home.

Create a crawl space you can live with. Contact us or call (410) 822-1390 today.

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Top 48 How To Mitigate Radon In A Crawl Space Trust The Answer

What is the most common method of radon mitigation?

How can the build up of radon be reduced?

Can a fan help reduce radon?

Should I seal my crawl space?

What time of year are radon levels highest?

Is it OK to live in a house with radon?

Does radon go through concrete?

Should I walk away from a house with radon?

Which of the following is an appropriate remediation strategy for removing radon gas from the home?

Does a dehumidifier help with radon?

Does opening a window reduce radon?

Does running furnace fan reduce radon?

Should a crawl space be vented or sealed?

Is encapsulating a crawl space a good idea?

Should I put a dehumidifier in my crawl space?

What type of pipe is used for radon mitigation?

Will opening the basement windows before a radon test lower the results?

Which of the following is an appropriate remediation strategy for removing radon gas from the home?

Will an air exchanger reduce radon?

Attention Required! | Cloudflare

What is Radon Mitigation?

Reduce Radon Levels in Your Home | NCEH | CDC

how to mitigate radon in a crawl space

This Is Why You Should Seal Your Crawl Space | Total Home Performance | Crawl Space Encapsulations | Easton Maryland | MD

Removing Radon gas from Crawlspaces & Basements Easily – Ecohome

Radon Mitigation and Your Crawl Space – DuPage Radon Contractors

Crawl Space Radon Mitigation | Keep Your Home & Family Safe

radon gas and crawlspaces

Attention Required! | Cloudflare

What is Radon Mitigation?

Reduce Radon Levels in Your Home

This Is Why You Should Seal Your Crawl Space

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