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When you first begin researching the types of enclosures to keep a ball python in, the overwhelming consensus seems to be to use a plastic home storage tub. Tubs are a really great tool for keeping these tropical species. They are much easier to maintain the temperature and humidity in, compared to a tank.Once the snake grows, the size of its tank must grow as well. Baby ball pythons will feel most secure and will thrive in either a 10-20 gallon tank or a 6-12 qt tub (for rack systems). An adult ball python would be most comfortable in a 40 gallon breeder tank or a 28-41qt tub.Just be sure to start with a suitably sized enclosure, heat the habitat appropriately and choose a good substrate. Add a few hiding boxes, a water dish, and a digital thermometer and you’ll have a habitat that’ll keep your ball python healthy and happy for years to come.
- Obtain a tub of appropriate size. …
- Melt holes in the sides. …
- Install the thermostat/rheostat. …
- Install the under tank heater (UTH). …
- Immediately connect to your thermostat/rheostat! …
- Install thermometers/hygrometers. …
- Add a water bowl to the cool side.
Contents
Can a ball python live in a tub?
When you first begin researching the types of enclosures to keep a ball python in, the overwhelming consensus seems to be to use a plastic home storage tub. Tubs are a really great tool for keeping these tropical species. They are much easier to maintain the temperature and humidity in, compared to a tank.
How big of a tub does a ball python need?
Once the snake grows, the size of its tank must grow as well. Baby ball pythons will feel most secure and will thrive in either a 10-20 gallon tank or a 6-12 qt tub (for rack systems). An adult ball python would be most comfortable in a 40 gallon breeder tank or a 28-41qt tub.
How do you set up a snake tank for a ball python?
Just be sure to start with a suitably sized enclosure, heat the habitat appropriately and choose a good substrate. Add a few hiding boxes, a water dish, and a digital thermometer and you’ll have a habitat that’ll keep your ball python healthy and happy for years to come.
What do ball pythons like in their enclosure?
The ball python, in general, thrives in a warm, humid environment. The best substrates for retaining moisture can help you in maintaining optimal humidity levels inside the enclosure. A substrate such as cypress mulch is the best choice for your ball snake.
How big is a 1 year old ball python?
Age | Male Length | Female Length |
---|---|---|
Nine Months | 25 to 30 inches | 25 to 35 inches |
One year | 1.5 to 2 feet | 2 feet |
One and a Half Years | 2 to 2.5 feet | 2 to 3 feet |
Two Years | 2 to 3 feet | 2.5 to 3.5 feet |
What is the best substrate for ball pythons?
Coconut husk, also referred to as “coco husk,” is made from roughly chopped chunks of coconut shell. It’s widely considered the BEST substrate choice for ball pythons and other tropical reptile and amphibian species.
Do ball pythons need heat at night?
Optimal Temperatures for Ball Pythons
In your Ball Python’s enclosure, you’ll need to have an ambient temperature of 82–86 degrees F, with a basking spot on one side of 95-105 degrees F. At night, the ambient temperature should ideally drop to 72–78 degrees F.
What should I put at the bottom of my snake tank?
Layer the bottom of the habitat with bedding (also called substrate) your new pet can burrow into. Aspen & cypress shavings are a natural, odorless option; snakes can tunnel through it like they’d do in the wild. Spot clean the bedding often to remove droppings and change the bedding regularly.
Should ball pythons have lights?
Even though ball pythons do not require special lighting, many keepers like to provide enclosure lighting to make the habitat and animal look their best. The easiest way to do so is by buying one or more of the fixtures discussed earlier, but instead of using a heat lamp bulb, use compact fluorescent bulbs instead.
Can you snake a shower drain?
How to Unclog a Shower Drain with A Plumber’s Snake. Sometimes the best way to unclog a shower drain is with a drain snake, sometimes called a manual auger or electric auger. If it’s electric, you’ll need a power drill to run the plumber’s snake. If it’s manual, you’ll have to turn the handle by hand to operate it.
Are tubs better for ball pythons?
From over 20 years of experience keeping Ball Pythons, I can tell you that tubs – including those in racks – are great for them. They’re cheap, versatile, and hold both heat and humidity better than most other types of enclosure.
How long do ball pythons live?
The expected lifespan for a ball python in captivity is around 30 years. Individuals have been reported to have lived over 50 years when cared for well. In the wild, they have predators, including humans, wild pigs, and leopards. If they survive to adulthood, their average lifespan in the wild is between 10-15 years.
How big is a 500 gram ball python?
1.5 – 2.5 feet | 150-500 grams
Ball pythons grow at different rates. So long as their bodies are rounded rather than triangular and their spines are not showing, your juvenile ball pythons are fine at any length. A healthy 6-month old ball python may weigh as little as 100 grams or as much as 300.
How to Set up a Plastic Tub for Ball Pythons – PetHelpful
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Ball Python Care Sheet
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Introduction
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Enjoy your Ball Python!
Available Ball Pythons
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Setting up a Tub – WHERE MY SCALES SLITHER
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How to Set up a Plastic Tub for Ball Pythons
Felecia has been an online writer for over four years. Her articles often focus taking care of pet snakes.
An adorable closeup of a pinstripe ball python! martinlyon
Tub setups are all the rage with ball python breeders, collectors, and serious enthusiasts! I use a plastic tub set up for my ball python and always have. They have so many advantages over glass, but that’s for another article. Here, I will tell you how to set up a plastic tub enclosure for a ball python and what you’ll need to get started.
Supplies for a Plastic Tub Enclosure for a Ball Python
digital temp gun
digital thermometer(s) with probe
hygrometer (digital works best)
thermostat or rheostat to control heat
THG or Flexwatt heat tape (or appropriate UTH)
newspaper, aspen, carefresh, or paper towels
plastic tub, such as an underbed Sterilite
soldering gun
water bowl
hides (such as overturned bowls, shoe boxes, or professional reptile hides)
duct tape or foil tape
strong, large binder clips
A 41-qt underbed tub
Step-by-Step Instructions for Tub Setup
Follow these steps to create a safe tub enclosure for your python.
1. Obtain a tub of appropriate size.
Get the right size of tub for your snake. Always go for flatter and longer rather than wider or taller, although a tub should not be so short that you cannot fit a water bowl inside. A good tub for a subadult to adult male would be a 41 quart tub. Basic rule of thumb: make sure that the tub side length is at least equal to the snake’s length. For a hatchling to juvenile, something the equivalent of a ten gallon tank will do. You can get these tubs for around $10 online or in stores like Big Lots or Walmart easily.
2. Melt holes in the sides.
Fire up that soldering gun! You can use a drill, but these tend to crack and make irregular holes. Simply use the gun to melt holes in the sides (and lid, possibly), one about every three inches or so. If the humidity tends to be too high, add more holes. You can also use this to melt the plastic around any wheels, jamming them shut so they can’t move.
3. Install the thermostat/rheostat.
This consists of plugging it into the wall and attaching the probe either on the physical heating element itself, on the outside of the tub, or at the bottom of the tub underneath the substrate where it’s touching the hottest spot.
4. Install the under tank heater (UTH).
For heat tape, you can attach the heating element directly onto the tub (provided that there is at least 1/4″ inch separating the tub from the carpet/floor), but most breeders simply attach the heat tape to their shelving unit, with the tub sitting atop it. For heat pads, simply adhere the pad directly to the bottom of the tub, on the warm side. The UTH should cover about 1/3 of the total tub, or an area about the width x length of the snake curled up.
5. Immediately connect to your thermostat/rheostat!
Do not allow heat tape to be in contact with the tub for any amount of time without regulation from a stat. This can easily burn the tub and the snake. Although heat pads may be lower power, they are just as or even more unreliable, so always connect these to a stat as well.
6. Install thermometers/hygrometers.
A good idea is to feed the digital temperature probe underneath the newspaper/other substrate and over the hottest spot, and to install another thermometer on the “cold” spot. Hygrometers should not be placed directly near the water bowl and shouldn’t be put on the hottest spot either.
7. Add a water bowl to the cool side.
It should ideally be big enough for the snake to soak in, but if that takes up too much space, use something smaller. Short, heavy-ish bowls are best since snakes love tipping their bowls over and spilling them!
8. Add appropriately-sized hides (just large enough for the snake to fit in comfortably).
These can be practically anything safe for snakes, although something that can be cleaned (or discarded) immediately after a poop is best. Put one hide on the warm side, and one on the cool side.
9. (Optional) Add decorations.
You can include decorations like fake plants, fake rock formations, etc. to enhance the cage’s overall look. You might want to do this if the enclosure is incredibly large to get rid of excess space and make your ball python more comfortable.
The beautiful normal ball python. Angela N
Proper Ball Python Temperatures
Side °F °C Hot side 82–85 27–30 Cold side 75–81 24–27
Four Quick Tips
Provide a heat gradient. Any time you set up a reptile enclosure, make sure to provide an appropriate heat gradient. This means that the tub has a hot end, a warmish middle, and a cool end (where the water bowl will be). Use a digital temperature gun. Digital temperature guns provide accurate, easy-to-read, instantaneous temperature readings for a specific spot in your enclosure. This helps monitor your temperatures more directly and check to make sure your digital thermometers, placed on the hottest spot and one on the coolest spot, are working properly. Use a thermostat. A thermostat or at least a rheostat (essentially, a heat dimmer), is absolutely vital for any reptile setup to prevent heating malfunctions and burns, and to establish an overall stable temperature gradient. Stick with non-loose substrates. I personally recommend non-loose substrates, such as newspaper or paper towels.
Why I Recommend Non-Loose Substrates
easy to clean
not at all dangerous (no danger of ingestion)
safe
cheap
and easy to obtain
Four Important Warnings!
Never use a heat rock. They cannot be regulated via stat and can and probably will cause serious burns; no, snakes do not instinctively avoid something if it feels too hot, especially since they are not always capable of doing so in restricted spaces. Always use a thermostat. I know I’ve already said this. I can’t say it enough! If all you can afford is a crummy rheostat that will not keep the temperatures accurate, get that. It’ll get the job done until you can save up enough money for a better thermostat. Never never never ever use sand! This includes “safe” calcium sand. Do not even use it for “sand” boas or reptiles that are from deserts! Just because a reptile is from an arid climate, such as a desert, does not mean that they spend most of their time in loose sand. Even so, in captivity, sand is much too dry, and very commonly causes impaction; no matter how careful you are, an animal on sand will be ingesting it or at the very least be in physical contact with it. Impaction can be deadly! Never use pine, cedar, or crushed walnut shells, either. Other substrates not to use include pine and cedar, which are proven toxic to most small animals despite their labels, and crushed walnut shells, as they are incredibly dry and don’t retain humidity.
Another great housing option: racks! Tubs fixed in a shelving unit with proper heating and heat regulation attached. Most ball python breeders use these. jotay
This article is accurate and true to the best of the author’s knowledge. It is not meant to substitute for diagnosis, prognosis, treatment, prescription, or formal and individualized advice from a veterinary medical professional. Animals exhibiting signs and symptoms of distress should be seen by a veterinarian immediately.
© 2014 Felecia Burgett
Dante on May 08, 2020:
I’ve actually heard that aspen bedding is not good for ball pythons.
Christine on July 13, 2019:
My favorite snake species is reticulated pythons.
Russell kitsmiller on May 26, 2018:
Im geting three young ballpythons and im looking for the right cage set up for them its us for two females and one male can you help me
Anna on March 19, 2018:
Can you post a picture of your setup so that I can have an idea of what the end product should look like?
totallyNotTheOP on January 03, 2016:
this hub is wack!!!!!!!!
Tubs: How to Create an Appropriate Ball Python Tub
When you first begin researching the types of enclosures to keep a ball python in, the overwhelming consensus seems to be to use a plastic home storage tub. Tubs are a really great tool for keeping these tropical species. They are much easier to maintain the temperature and humidity in, compared to a tank. They are also much less transparent, so the snake doesn’t feel quite as exposed. Plus, you won’t have to buy an expensive tank every time your snake grows. This guide was designed to walk you through the process of using a tub as an enclosure.
Tub size:
Tub size is a touchy subject. Every breeder wants to tell you that ball pythons never move and therefore need little space. You’ll commonly hear that they are pet rocks who wont eat unless they are in a very small cage. However, this fails to take into account actual reptile behavior. This common misconception likely came about from 3rd source information received from ball python hunters and exporters in Africa. The exporters gave the information to the importers who then released the information publicly. When viewing the ball python capturing videos, you will notice the hunters go out and look for snug holes a ball python may inhabit. Sure enough, the hunters reach in and pull out a ball python! There is one remarkable detail that is often overlooked in these videos- they take place during the day. Ball pythons are a nocturnal animal and therefore it makes sense they would be hiding during the day. Unfortunately, there are no records about behavior during the night, but based on my own observations as well as a ton of fellow reptiblrs- ball pythons will use larger enclosures without problem.
When properly designed, a ball python habitat will encourage positive use of the space. Species appropriate enrichment, as well as a correct heat gradient will allow for the snake to move throughout the enclosure. Movement will help to stave off fat deposits which otherwise can lower reproductive rates in addition to the length of your snake’s life. For more information about the purpose and benefits of enrichment, please take a look at @rainbowsnakes ’s enrichment article here.
Because enrichment is important, you will want to provide enough space to allow for it. The rule of thumb is to use an enclosure that is at least as long as a snake. There is also evidence that ball pythons are semi-arboreal, so giving them some room to climb will also allow them to complete natural behaviors. Even if you don’t choose to believe they are semi-arboreal, the term “terrestrial” does not mean “branches are lava!” It simply means they spend most time of the ground. Terrestrial animals still have the ability to climb 2 ft or higher on occasion!
Alright, now you have some background to make a decision. Tub size will depend on the age of your snake. I find that baby snakes are less likely to find heat as easily as an adult if they are in a larger space. Adults will easily navigate larger enclosures, so providing them with more room than their length can be great! Here are the minimum tub sizes I would recommend for ball pythons:
Hatchling (60-300 g): 16 qt/15 L; 16 ¾” L x 11 7/8″ W x 7″ H (42.5cm L x 30.2cm W x 17.8cm H)
Hatchling (300-700 g): 32 qt/30 L; 23 5/8″ L x 16 3/8″ W x 6 ½” H (60cm L x 41.6cm W x 16.5cm H)
Sub/small-adult (700-1200 g): 110 qt/104 L; 34 5/8″ L x 18 ¾” W x 12 5/8″ H
87.9cm L x 47.6cm W x 32.1cm H
Larger Adult (1200+g): IRIS Christmas Tree Bin 53″L x 21″W x 14″H (134.62”L x 53.34”W x 35.56”H)
Do I need a rack system?
Rack systems look, for the most part, like this. They are usually built out of melamine. The rack functions as the lid for the enclosure, so you wouldn’t need to worry about purchasing a lid. If you are not using a rack, please make sure you buy the tubs with a locking lid. You can also modify the lid so the snake won’t escape.
Ventilation:
Air flow is an important aspect of creating a habitat. For this part you will need either a soldering iron or a drill with a twist bit, a razor blade, and a lighter. A tape measure/ruler and permanent marker are optional but you may want to measure out and mark where you would like the holes to be so they look nice. If this is the case, you can begin by measuring out your tub and marking where you would like your holes to go. Decide where your hot end will be. If you limit the amount of holes on one end, and increase them gradually on the other end it will make it easier to form a heat gradient. The side with the least holes will be your warm side. Something like this:
Once you have marked all of the places you would like holes, grab your hole making tool. If you are using a soldering iron, heat it up and press it through the plastic. If you are using a drill bit, carefully drill through the side. Try to put a lot of tension around the area the hole is going. The less wobbly it is, the less likely it is to crack when using the drill. When you have finished with the drill, take the razor blade and scrape out the excess plastic. Next, use the lighter to soften the edges of the plastic.
Rinse the tub thoroughly and allow to defume for 24 hours. This will air out the chemically smell that could be dangerous for your snake. After waiting, use your favorite snake friendly cleaner on the tub.
Climbing structures:
As mentioned before, because ball pythons climb they should be presented with the opportunity to do so. I collected cholla, mesquite,wood dowels, and aspen branches, then screwed them into the tub. First, I get a feel for when I want the branches and then cut them as needed.
I place them where I need them to go, then mark the spot I need to put the screw.
I slowly screw it in, but only just so. The trick is to get it so the screw is stuck, but not really protruding through the other side.
Then, line up your branch and screw it through. You may have to angle the screw so it doesn’t poke out of the wood. Make sure the screw is in line with the branch while you are using the drill.
Finish doing this with all your branches.
Substrate:
Since tubs are easier to maintain humidity in, there are more options for substrate.
Moisten your substrate as needed and place it in the tub.
I personally make my own mix of substrate using 1:1 coco chip and organic potting soil. I place a paper towel over the hotspot so the temps are consistent for each snake. In this particular example I was also trying some tactile enrichment, so I have a small pile of play sand available for the snake.
Furnishings:
Furnishings are very important for helping your snake feel secure. Make sure you have at least 2 hides that are snug fitting. Most ball pythons like short, tight spaces so that they are able to press their bodies up against all sides. You can purchase premade or simple hides, or you can learn to make your own.
Choose a water bowl that the snake can fit its entire body in. In the case your humidity drops too low, you want to make sure your snake won’t become dehydrated. A larger bowl will also increase the humidity.
Now, place your fake plants and vines into the enclosure. For ball pythons, visual, permeable barriers are important. This means making the space appear crowded, but with thing the snake can move through. Fake aquarium plants and vines draped over the branches will help with this process.
Now you’re done! Put it over your heater and apply the snake!
Ball Python Habitat: How to Create the Ideal Tank Setup?
Ball pythons make fantastic pets, as they are relatively small, easy to maintain and typically have docile temperaments. They’re also attractive animals, who are available in a number of beautiful color variations.
But to ensure your ball python enjoys a high quality of life, you must provide him with the proper care. This means, among other things, providing a suitable habitat or enclosure for your pet.
Below, we’ll try to help you do exactly this. We’ll explain the most important things to keep in mind when selecting and preparing your ball python’s enclosure. We’ll also discuss the proper humidity, temperature, bedding, and lighting for the habitat too.
But we’ll begin by looking at the natural habitat of the ball python, as this will inform some of our choices and decisions moving forward.
> Further Reading: The Complete Ball Python Care Sheet
Ball Python Natural Habitat
The ball python habitat is stretching from the West African coast to central Africa. Most imported ball pythons hail from the countries of Ghana, Benin or Togo.
They primarily inhabit grasslands, scrublands, savannas and open forests. Ball pythons may also live in disturbed areas, around human habitations or farms. They do not typically inhabit rainforests (or other dense forests), nor do they live in deserts or extremely arid places. Ball pythons spend most of their time in rodent burrows, which provide them with shelter and moderate temperatures.
Ball Python Cage: What Type of Tank Is Best and What Size Should It Be?
The first thing you’ll need to provide your ball python with is a suitable enclosure. There are several different types of enclosure from which you can choose, and each presents different benefits and drawbacks.
The most commonly used enclosure types include:
Glass aquaria
Glass aquaria are readily available and typically quite affordable. They also offer unparalleled visibility, which will make it easy to see your pet. However, aquaria are quite fragile, and they can be difficult to move around. Additionally, glass aquariums do not retain heat very well.
Commercially manufactured cages
Commercially manufactured reptile cages are usually the best option for ball python keepers. Commercial cages are typically made from lightweight plastic, feature front-opening doors and are designed to accommodate heating devices. They aren’t as widely available as aquaria, so you may need to purchase one online.
Plastic storage boxes
Plastic storage boxes can make suitable ball python habitats, and they are both affordable and lightweight. They’re also easy to find at big-box retailers and hardware stores. However, they don’t provide a good view of your pet, as they’re typically translucent (as opposed to transparent). You’ll also need to modify them by drilling air holes and making them escape-proof.
Custom-built enclosures
Custom-built enclosures are a great option for keepers who have the skill and desire to build them. However, they are usually best designed by keepers with a bit of experience, rather than beginners.
No matter what type of enclosure you select, you must ensure that it provides your pet with enough room. Habitat size is a hotly debated topic among keepers, but generally speaking, adult ball pythons will require a habitat that provides between 3 and 6 square feet of space. Young ball pythons require only a fraction of this space.
Ball pythons don’t climb very frequently, so enclosure height isn’t terribly important. Habitats that provide 12 to 18 inches of height are sufficient.
Ball Python Enclosure: Providing the Proper Lighting and Temperatures
Now that you’ve selected an enclosure for your ball python, you must provide proper temperatures and lighting for the habitat. Generally speaking, it is quite easy to provide lighting for a ball python, but you may need to make repeated adjustments to establish the correct temperature range for your pet.
Ball Python Habitat Lighting
Ball pythons – like most other snakes – will remain healthy and happy without any specialized lighting. The ambient light entering their enclosure will provide all the light they need. In fact, ball pythons are primarily nocturnal, so extremely bright lighting will often cause them to hide.
However, you can help your snake look his best by incorporating a full-spectrum fluorescent fixture over the habitat. You needn’t use a light that provides UV radiation; simply choose a light that provides a well-balanced color spectrum and a moderate light intensity.
Be sure to plug the lights into a timer so you don’t have to worry about turning the lights on and off every day. This will also provide the snake with a consistent light-dark cycle, which is important for your pet’s health. A 12-hour cycle (12 hours of light, followed by 12 hours of darkness) works well, given the species’ equatorial distribution.
> Further Reading: Ball Python Lighting Needs and Requirements
Ball Python Habitat Temperatures
Ball pythons prefer relatively high temperatures, like those in their natural range. However, you should always provide snakes (and other reptiles) with a thermal gradient. This will allow them to access a range of temperatures at any given point in time.
To create a thermal gradient, you’ll need to place all of the heating devices for the habitat at one end of the enclosure. This will create a basking spot, which provides the warmest temperatures in the habitat. Ideally, the temperatures at the basking spot should be about 95 degrees Fahrenheit during the day.
The opposite end of the habitat should provide somewhat cooler temperatures. Temperatures in the low- to mid-70s Fahrenheit are ideal. Just be sure that they are below 80 degrees so that your snake can cool off if necessary. The temperatures between the basking spot and the cool side of the enclosure will decrease with increasing distance from the heat source.
You can use heat lamps, heat tape, heat pads or radiant heat panels to supply the heat for your pet.
Personally, I’ve always preferred overhead heat sources, such as lamps and radiant heat panels. Overhead sources reduce the likelihood that your snake will suffer burns, and they’re probably better from a fire-safety perspective.
However, other keepers prefer the convenience heat pads or heat tape provide. Just be sure to monitor the temperatures provided by these types of heat sources. It’s also important to follow all of the manufacturer’s instructions during installation.
Unless the temperatures in the habitat fall below about 68 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit at night, you can simply turn off the heat sources overnight. If you need to provide supplemental heat at night, do so with heat sources that do not produce light.
Suitable Humidity for a Ball Python Habitat
Snakes need suitable humidity levels to remain healthy. If kept too dry, they’ll have difficulty shedding properly and they may become dehydrated. On the other hand, snakes kept in excessively humid environments may develop potentially fatal skin diseases. Improper humidity in either direction may also cause the development of respiratory infections.
Ball pythons typically prefer a relative humidity of 50% to 60%. That’s a bit damper than the air in most homes, so you’ll likely find it necessary to mist your pet’s habitat lightly with room-temperature water each day. You can also add water to the substrate or increase the size of the water dish to raise the humidity.
It’s also a good practice to provide your ball python with a moist hide box (in addition to his normal hide box discussed below). This will help prevent dehydration and give him a good place to sleep when he is entering a shed cycle. This will help promote full, problem-free sheds.
You can make a humid hide box by adding a bit of damp (not wet) moss or mulch to a small container. Just cut a small door in the side of the container to provide your snake with access to the retreat.
If your ball python’s habitat is too damp, you’ll need to try to reduce the humidity and dry the cage out a bit. The best way to accomplish this is by increasing the amount of ventilation provided. You can also try decreasing the size of the water dish.
> Further Reading: The Ball Python Behavior & Health
Bedding: What Is the Best Substrate for a Ball Python Enclosure?
There are a variety of different substrates you can use to maintain a ball python. No single substrate is ideal for all situations, so you’ll need to compare the options available and select the best choice for you and your pet.
Some of the most common ball python substrates that can be used include:
Newspaper
Newspaper is probably the simplest, most hygienic and most affordable substrate you can use. It is easy to replace when soiled, and your snake can even crawl under the newspaper to hide if he wishes. Generally speaking, newspaper is the best choice for novice snake keepers.
Paper Towels
Paper towels provide most of the same benefits that newspaper does, and it is also a good choice for beginners. It can be difficult to use paper towels in adult-sized enclosures, but it works very well in the relatively small habitats used for hatchling and juvenile snakes.
Aspen Shavings
Aspen shavings are relatively affordable, and they absorb moisture rapidly, which will help reduce odors coming from the enclosure. They also allow snakes to burrow. However, aspen shavings can be a bit messy, and they must be replaced quickly if they become wet, as they’ll rot.
Cypress Mulch
Cypress mulch is another great choice, and it is the author’s favorite substrate for ball python maintenance. This mulch is very affordable (although the price varies by geographic region), permits burrowing and retains moisture well, which can make it easier to maintain the proper enclosure humidity. Cypress mulch also smells nice.
Orchid Bark
Orchid bark is somewhat similar to cypress mulch in that it is helpful for maintaining a high humidity level. It also looks great and allows snakes to burrow. However, orchid bark is often relatively expensive, so it isn’t commonly used in large enclosures.
Just be sure to weigh the pros and cons of these substrates before making your choice. However, you can always decide to make a change later, if you determine that your first choice isn’t working well.
> Further reading: Best Ball Python Substrates and Beddings
Additional Accessories and Supplies for Your Ball Python Cage
In addition to heating and lighting devices and an appropriate substrate, you’ll need a few more things to turn your ball python’s enclosure into a suitable habitat.
All ball python enclosures must include at least one hide box , and it is preferable to include several. Failing to provide your snake with a good place to hide will cause him a great deal of stress. It is also likely to suppress his desire to feed . An inverted plastic tub with a door cut into the side is ideal, but there are also commercial options available.
, and it is preferable to include several. Failing to provide your snake with a good place to hide will cause him a great deal of stress. It is also likely to suppress his . An inverted plastic tub with a door cut into the side is ideal, but there are also commercial options available. You’ll also need to add a water dish to the enclosure and keep it filled with clean water at all times. You can use a plastic water dish, but glass, ceramic or stainless-steel dishes are preferable. The dish needn’t be large enough to permit your snake to soak, but you can provide a dish large enough to accommodate your snake’s entire body if you like.
to the enclosure and keep it filled with clean water at all times. You can use a plastic water dish, but glass, ceramic or stainless-steel dishes are preferable. The dish needn’t be large enough to permit your snake to soak, but you can provide a dish large enough to accommodate your snake’s entire body if you like. You can add plastic or real plants to the enclosure if you like, but they aren’t necessary. Plastic plants are safer and won’t require any care, but some keepers prefer the look of live plants. Just be sure to avoid toxic species or those that are armed with thorns or spines.
to the enclosure if you like, but they aren’t necessary. Plastic plants are safer and won’t require any care, but some keepers prefer the look of live plants. Just be sure to avoid toxic species or those that are armed with thorns or spines. You must also obtain a high-quality digital thermometer to monitor the ambient temperatures in the habitat. In fact, it is also wise to purchase a non-contact infrared thermometer, so you can also monitor surface temperatures in the habitat.
> Further Reading: The Ball Python Diet
Now It’s Your Turn
As you can see, it isn’t terribly difficult to provide a ball python with a proper habitat. Just be sure to start with a suitably sized enclosure, heat the habitat appropriately and choose a good substrate. Add a few hiding boxes, a water dish, and a digital thermometer and you’ll have a habitat that’ll keep your ball python healthy and happy for years to come.
I’d also offer a bit of personal advice to new keepers:
Although many new keepers are eager to create a beautiful, intricately decorated habitat for their pet, it’s probably wise to start with a very simple enclosure. Don’t get me wrong – I love setting up complicated and elaborate vivaria for ball pythons (and other snakes), but I see a lot of new keepers make mistakes when doing so.
Instead, I recommend that first-time snake keepers maintain a simple and straightforward habitat for six months to a year before setting up a natural-looking vivarium. This will give you the chance to learn the basics of habitat design and maintenance, which will help you avoid a number of common problems.
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