Frame Builders Smoothing Putty? The 127 Latest Answer

Are you looking for an answer to the topic “frame builders smoothing putty“? We answer all your questions at the website https://chewathai27.com/ppa in category: Top 711 tips update new. You will find the answer right below.

This thick cover-all putty is perfect for tatty frames. It can be used to cover minor blemishes including scratches, rust damage and stickers. Hold the can at least 8 inches away from the surface when you spray.The paint of choice for bicycle frames is Dupont Imron enamel.

Which paint is best for bike frame?

The paint of choice for bicycle frames is Dupont Imron enamel.

Do you need primer to paint a bike?

If your bike is prepped for paint and still has the factory paint, you do not need primer. If you bike has some exposed metal after sanding and some original factory paint, we recommend priming the entire frame.

Spray.Bike Frame Builder’s Smoothing Putty

Is one can of paint enough for a whole bike? – A 400ml can of paint will easily cover a typical frame and fork if you apply it with the correct technique required by Spray.Bike. Be sure to follow the spray distance recommendations and basecoat recommendations for each color as spray distances vary widely. We recommend a primer (either White Metal Primer, Marylebone or Whitechapel) when painting with any of the Fluro colours.

Do I have to disassemble the bike before painting? – Yes. You should remove all parts and tape off any areas where a part will come back onto the bike.

How do I hang the bike when painting? We recommend hanging the frame somehow so you can paint it without having to set it down. Several methods work: a bike stand, a rope through the head tube hanging from a tree or garage rafters. Make sure you access all areas of the frame. Get creative when needed.

How many coats of paint is best? – More paint is not better and too much paint will make your finish less durable. We recommend that you use the minimum amount of paint to get the job done. Painting is recommended unless otherwise stated on the product page. A coat of paint that is one coat of paint (not a whole can) with a set back to cover any light spots are areas that have been missed. We recommend painting the bike and letting it stand for about 30 minutes. Take it in a different light and touch up all the bright spots. You don’t need to add more layers if there is good coverage.

I have an old metal bike that I want to repaint. Do I have to disassemble my bike down to the bare metal before painting? – Compared to chemically stripping the entire old factory, repainting an existing paint job is preferable in terms of both prep work and the durability of the new paint job. A sanded factory paint serves as a primer. Chemical strippers can leave residues that prevent Spray.Bike from adhering properly. Sandblasting is an acceptable method of removing old paint, but you should use a primer (metal primer or cold zinc primer) as the first coat.

How to prepare a metal bike? – All bikes are different and encourage you to do some independent research before getting started. In general, we recommend preparing metal frames by wet sanding with around 220 grit sandpaper. The goal is to provide a rough, clean old coat of factory paint for the new paint to adhere to without exposing the raw metal. Basically, the sanded factory paint acts like a primer. We recommend cleaning your frame with rubbing alcohol before painting. Never use acetone or an acetone based cleaner on your bike and never use rubbing alcohol through Spray.bike.

How do I prepare a carbon wheel? – All bikes are different and encourage you to do some independent research before getting started. In general, we recommend preparing your painted carbon wheel with wet sanding with 600 grit. The goal is to provide a rough, clean old coat of factory paint for the new paint to adhere to without exposing the raw carbon. We recommend cleaning your frame with rubbing alcohol before painting. Never use acetone or an acetone based cleaner on your bike and never use rubbing alcohol through Spray.bike. Applying a thin coat of carbon primer after the frame has been sanded and cleaned can improve durability and adhesion.

What grit sandpaper should I use? – All bikes are different and encourage you to do some independent research before getting started. In general, we recommend preparing metal frames by wet sanding around 300 grit for metal wheels and wet sanding carbon at 800 grit for carbon wheels. The goal is to provide a rough, clean layer of old paint for the new paint to adhere to without exposing the raw metal or carbon. We recommend cleaning your frame with rubbing alcohol to clean the bike before painting. Never use acetone or an acetone-based cleaner on your bike.

How do I know if I need a primer? – Metal Primer (Aluminum or Steel) / Cold Zinc (Steel) is only needed once you’ve gotten down to the exposed metal. You only need carbon primer if you are painting over raw carbon fiber or a resin composite frameset. If your bike is prepared for painting and still has the factory paint finish, you do not need a primer. If your bike has some exposed metal and some original factory paint after sanding, we recommend priming the entire frame.

My steel frame has some rusty spots, how do I deal with it? The best you can do is sand down those rusty spots, starting with steel wool (or similar) and working up to about 300 grit sandpaper. Try to remove as much rust as possible. Ideally you want this area to be rust free and smooth with the rest of the frame. Clean with soap and water and wipe with rubbing alcohol. We recommend a coat of Cold-Zinc Primer to prevent further rust from developing. If this rusted area is still rough after sanding and priming, you can use our finishing putty to build up/sand back the area so it is smooth with the rest of the frame.

Can I paint my mountain bike with Spray.Bike? – Absolutely. Although Spray.Bike is an amazing consumer spray paint, it’s still spray paint and, especially on a mountain bike, can be expected to get scratched. Chain slapping on a mountain bike can be particularly difficult during paint jobs, using a chainstay protector can help protect the frame from rapid wear.

What is the correct distance from the frame for spraying? –

Spot Colors: Spray the surface from a distance of 2-4 inches

Pocket Clears, Frame Builder’s Smoothing Putty, Frame Builder’s Transparent Finish, Frame Builder’s Cold-Zinc, Frame Builder’s Metal Primer, Frame Builder’s Carbon Primer, Frame Builder’s Metal Plating: Spray the surface from a distance of at least 8 inches

Keirin Flake and Keirin Sunlight: Spray the surface from a distance of at least 12 inches

Frame Builder’s Top Wax: Spray onto a paper towel or soft, lint-free cloth and apply gently

How long should I wait between layers of top coat? – Drying times will vary depending on the product, how thick the paint has been applied, temperature and humidity. Generally we recommend 7 days before building the bike to allow the top coat to cure. See the How To section for more information. Generally 2 hours for colors and 24 hours for top coats. We recommend a drying time of 2 or 24 hours between top coats. Cooler temperatures, thicker paint and humid conditions increase drying times.

Fluros seems difficult to work with, any tips? – The fluoros are a bit difficult to work with due to their high powder content. The biggest mistake people make with it is painting too far away. You want to be nice and close, 2-3 inches from the frame. This seems too close, so practice a little first to get the feel. We suggest trying to drip it to see where this point is. If you get a rough orange peel effect, it means the paint is basically drying before it hits the frame. It could be too hot (see website for details) or you’re painting too far away. We also recommend a light base coat (Metal Primer, Cold-Zinc Primer or one of the light colors) to bring out the bright colour. In addition, rubbing the paint off with parchment paper about 20-30 minutes after painting will help compress the paint. A few tricks for working with the Fluros:

Make sure you shake the can for 3 full minutes, you must be able to hear the ball moving freely inside

The optimal temperature for Fluros is between 55-65F. Don’t paint when it’s over 75 degrees

Sometimes the cans will spray gunk for the first few seconds, shake again for a few seconds and then spray again until you get a nice flow of paint

The biggest mistake people make is painting too far away. Practice spraying 2-4 inches from a wall or other object to feel spray distance before beginning framing

Always spray first to get a nice flow before spraying the frame.

If the paint “spits”, shake the can for a few seconds and let it run nicely against a wall or other test object again before bringing it back to the frame

Hold the can upright while spraying as much as possible. It doesn’t like spraying upside down, so rotate the frame as you paint, not the can

Paint a nice layer, let it sit and come back in after about 30 minutes to see if you have any light spots, ideally under different light conditions (take it outside or inside). Touch up the light spots if necessary

20-30min after you finish painting, rub the frame with parchment paper to compress the paint smooth

a few coats of top coat and help smooth out the finish and bring out the fluoro color

Invert the can and spray until the paint stops coming out to clean the can after each painting. You don’t have to do this every time you spray in between, just when you’re done painting and leaving it for more than a day

Do I have to sand between layers? – You don’t do it, but you can. If you do this we recommend using a fine sandpaper and being careful not to mix the colors together.

do you match in color – No, all the colors we offer are available on the website.

Help, my nozzle is clogged! – If it happens, remove the nozzle from the can and scrape off the dried paint on the outside of the nozzle. Put the nozzle back on the can, shake the can well and see if you can get it to spray. Sometimes you have to hold the nozzle down to see if you can blow through the serrated paint. This is usually enough to get the paint splashing again. If that doesn’t work, you can swap out the nozzles from other Spray.Bike cans as long as they’re the same color.

Can the keirins be used as a top coat? – Yes! The keirin is a transparent glossy top coat but with floating bits of metallic colored flakes (in the flake) or glass dust (in the sunlight) making it an excellent top coat. In general, we recommend 7 days before building the bike to allow the Keirin top coat to cure.

Can I use Spray.Bike Top Coat to protect my raw frame? – Our understanding of using clear coat on raw steel is that it is almost impossible to permanently prevent rust and our clear coat certainly will not do so completely. It will definitely slow down the development of rust though, and if you’re willing to occasionally brush out some rust and spray clear again it will likely remain a cool looking finish. We recommend sandblasting or sanding with some coarse grit and cleaning with rubbing alcohol (never acetone) before spraying.

Can I paint over a powder coated frame? – Probably. However, it can be difficult to prepare a powder-coated frame well for painting, especially when it’s going to be coated with a hard, clear powder. If you can have the frame sandblasted, that’s best. If not, we recommend sanding through the top coat and making sure the frame is roughened and cleaned well to get the best adhesion.

Can I paint a raw titanium bike? Titanium is a wonderful material for bikes, but it’s notoriously difficult to paint on. In theory, Spray.Bike should work just about any type of paint as it is ultimately composed of pigment and an emulsifier (only in combinations that work really well for a spray paint.) The question really is what type of preparation is needed to make any paint adhere to titanium, and we don’t have a good answer for you on that. There are various etching processes recommended to prepare titanium for painting, but we have no direct experience. When working with steel and aluminium, we would assume that grit blasting is a good preparation for the underlying surface as it appears best with the other materials. Primer usually helps with the other materials as well, so this is probably a safe bet to maximize performance. Bottom line, it will probably perform just as well as any other color, but durability can be unsatisfactory.

Can I also paint other bicycle components with Spray.Bike? – Yes is the short answer. Painting metal parts can be a bit tricky, however, as there are a variety of surface treatments commonly used in the manufacture of components. Many parts are made from anodized alloy, which is a surface to which paint is quite difficult to adhere. Others are polished, which also leaves a slippery surface. With a little prep work – mostly careful sanding and cleaning – you can probably get paint to adhere to most aluminum parts. However, durability is another issue as parts are often even more stressed than the frame/fork and in our experience painting components often creates durability issues. We recommend using our Metal Primer before painting and you’ll be fine with a little trial and error.

Can I use your paint on plastic or fiberglass? Yes, but durability depends to some extent on how flexible the plastic is. We recommend sanding and cleaning the surface first and applying a coat of Carbon Primer to act as an adhesion aid and to help the paint flex without cracking.

I want a design on my bike. How long should I wait before adding color masking? – We recommend making sure the paint is fully cured (about 2 hours) before adding glue. That means if you can wait longer, that’s better. 24 hours is great, so leaving it overnight is great.

What kind of masking do you recommend? – We use the yellow 3M Automotive Refinishing Masking Tape. If you have a digital design that you would like created, we recommend calling your local sign shop and seeing if they can print your design on High Bake Paint vinyl or a low tack vinyl. You can use stickers, but sometimes the glue can be very strong and leave glue residue or peel the paint off if it’s not fully cured.

What if I screw up? – You could screw it up. It’s OK. It’s not the end of the world and we make mistakes too. We always say, “$hit ain’t done until you can fix it.” There are many ways to make a mistake painting a bike, especially if you’ve never done it before, but there are also many ways to make it to fix. We think that shouldn’t stop you from doing a fun creative endeavor and making the bike your own. In general, if something gets screwed up (you touch the frame when it’s wet, the masking pulls, you get a drip in your clear coat, the paint ends up being textured, or you just decide you want to start over), there there ways to make it right. Often this means sanding down the area that needs repairing, masking off other areas, and repainting. Take a look at our troubleshooting page and feel free to email us with specific questions.

How long should I wait before building the bike? – We recommend 7 days before building the bike to allow the top coat to cure. This also varies. Thicker paints, especially top coats and keirins, will increase cure time, as will temperature and humidity. In general, the longer you can give it to heal, the better.

What is the return policy? – We accept returns of unopened and unused cans up to 90 days after purchase. Return shipping must be by ground, and associated shipping costs and a $5 restocking fee will be paid by the customer. Please include your order number and we recommend obtaining a tracking number for the returned package. Refunds will be processed once the product is received.

Spray.Bike

5320 14th Ave

Sacramento Ca 95820

After painting, can I restore the bike to its original factory finish? You can easily sand off the paint, but you cannot restore the frame to its original condition.

Anything else to know? It’s common sense, but it’s wise to be careful when inhaling paint fumes. We use respirators and always paint in well-ventilated areas.

Be careful with temperature and humidity ranges as this can affect paint adhesion and performance more than almost anything. Do not paint when it is hot, moderately cold, rainy or humid.

Be prepared that your DIY project will turn out absolutely gorgeous, but rarely turn out exactly how you expect it to.

Now have fun painting your bike!

Should I clear coat my bike frame?

Using nail polish to touch-up scratched/rusted frames is more or less well-known (cf. Girls Biking to Work), but recently a hobbyist restorer of old bikes told me that you can “just apply clear coat over the entire frame” in order to keep the frame from rusting and to protect the paint job.

Spray.Bike Frame Builder’s Smoothing Putty

You can, but there are a few things you need to do first. As @FreeMan said you would have to clean it thoroughly to get it right and I would also use a degreaser before painting it.

You could try something like this before using the clear coat and adhesion promoter. Even after you’ve done all of this, there’s no telling how well it will work and/or how long it will last.

Without a proper paint booth or ideal conditions, it can be very easy to screw up a paint job.

If there is any underlying rust that hasn’t shown it will eventually even with a coat of paint.

If you really want to do a good job, it’s best to sand, prime, recoat, and then use a clear coat.

If you want to get the color, you may be out of luck. If you just want to restore/reuse the frame I would just go back and do a good job. It all comes down to whether it’s worth the time, money and energy to you.

How do you prepare a bike frame for painting?

Make sure that the frame is completely clean. If it’s not raw aluminum, steel, or carbon, give it a light sanding so the paint has something to stick to. Use 1,000 to 1,500-grit sandpaper, and rub just enough to texture the surface—you don’t want to take any material completely off.

Spray.Bike Frame Builder’s Smoothing Putty

British cycling coach Juliet Elliott shows how to paint a bike in a video on Squidbikes.com.

“I race a bike with ice on it,” says Emily Kachorek. “You don’t have to like it, but I do. And at least it turns your head!”

An elite cyclocross racer, former biologist and co-founder of Squid Bikes, Kachorek discovered her creative side early on. “I used to build bows and arrows and slingshots when I was a kid,” she says. Now she gets paid to spray paint bikes with flashy patterns and to make bike gear that stands out even when covered in mud.

Squid started partly because of failure. In 2013, Kachorek worked with a bike company to design a frame to match their neon gear at the time—but the paint job came back the wrong shade of yellow. She asked the owner of the brand if she could fix it herself. “I glued the shit out of the frame,” she says, laughing. “It was neon vomit. It looked unlike anything else out there. I wondered if I would be embarrassed at the start line.”

Instead, Kachorek discovered that people liked her bold and playful style. She and her Squid Bikes co-founders sourced American-made aluminum frames and began spray-painting. “I’m an 80’s kid; I love naughty neon things,” says Kachorek. “I realized that bikes don’t look like that. They are black and red and white and blue. I like to think that we helped that culture develop a bit.”

“Not many people do that,” Kachorek says of Squid’s vibrant aesthetic. “But people connect with it.” Carl Costas

Kachorek founded Squid not only to share her own vision, but also to give other riders the opportunity to realize theirs: the company sells several frames (as well as framesets and different builds) that customers can finish themselves, or you can build the frame have them painted by Squid Bikes. Squid also sells Sprayed n Ready frames that they painted but never built. (They are usually from fairs, but sometimes they sell frames painted by selected artists.)

This content will be imported from {embed-name}. You may find the same content in a different format or more information on their website.

One of Kachorek’s all-time favorite bikes was a creamsicle and cloud design that came to her in a dream. She painted the frame in front of an audience at a gravel road race to show how easy the process can be. “It’s our way of having fun and not taking everything so seriously,” she says. “It won’t be perfect, but it will be yours.”

Cyclocross racer Samantha Runnels from Team Squid x Eliel. Icon Sportswire Getty Images

6 tips for painting a bike

Whether you’ve always wanted to try your own custom paint job on your bike or have recently dusted off your bike due to COVID-19, giving your bike a fresh look is always a good idea. Along with Kachorek’s advice, we’ve put together some tips for a successful paint job.

1. Practice first

If this is your first time painting a bike, or if you are going to use a different color than last time, you may want to practice. You can experiment with a cheap frame that you don’t mind screwing up, or even a cheap metal tube.

2. Prepare the bike

You should make sure that the frame is ready for painting. First clean it with rubbing alcohol and a lint-free cloth. Make sure the frame is completely clean. Unless it’s raw aluminum, steel, or carbon, sand it down lightly so the paint has something to stick to. Use 1000-1500 grit sandpaper and rub just enough to texture the surface – you don’t want to completely remove any material.

3. Choose your color

It’s important to choose a quality paint that will last, so check your local art stores. Look for a low-pressure can – the slower the paint comes out, the easier it is to work with. Squid sells its own paint, Spray.Bike, on its website, and Montana paint is another good option. Whatever you end up choosing, don’t mix marks or lines, as different colors can react badly with each other.

4. Break out the tape

Place painter’s tape over parts of the frame where components will be attached: bottom bracket, seat tube, head tube, and dropouts. According to Kachorek, it works well on Squid’s aluminum frames. You can also use masking tape to mask off areas of the bike while you create your design – just make sure your base layer is completely dry or the paint could come off with the masking tape.

5. Set up your workspace

While doable, painting your bike while holding it is a hassle, so be sure to secure your frame so you can paint it without touching it. You can clamp the head tube onto a dowel and clamp the dowel into a stand, or just thread a cord or cord through the top tube and hang it from a rafter. You may also want to put a drop cloth on top to catch overspray.

6. Spray away

First, Kachorek says to shake the can for three minutes before using it. Then check the can to see how far away you should hold it when spraying. (Spray.Bike should be held closer to the bike than other paints, between 1 and 4 inches away.) Paint should be sprayed evenly and one coat at a time. Also, keep your hand at a steady pace while spraying.

Also consider the weather. Kachorek recommends painting in dry weather (most important) and preferably in warmer temperatures and lower humidity. Make sure to give the paint enough time to dry before layering different colors or applying a second layer.

And play around! The beauty of DIY is that there are no wrong answers. If you need more advice on painting your bike, check out painting tips at Squidbikes.com.

This content is created and maintained by a third party and imported to this page to help users provide their email addresses. You may find more information about this and similar content on piano.io

Is acrylic paint good for bikes?

Acrylic paint is water based, and contains nothing corrosive or harmful to aluminum. The only real downside with using acrylic is it isn’t a very durable and can easily be scratched off. For touchups I would recommend an enamel paint (ie.

Spray.Bike Frame Builder’s Smoothing Putty

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Can you paint over a bike frame?

You’ll want to make sure that the frame is ready to be painted. First, clean it with rubbing alcohol and a lint free towel. Make sure that the frame is completely clean. If it’s not raw aluminum, steel, or carbon, give it a light sanding so the paint has something to stick to.

Spray.Bike Frame Builder’s Smoothing Putty

British cycling coach Juliet Elliott shows how to paint a bike in a video on Squidbikes.com.

“I race a bike with ice on it,” says Emily Kachorek. “You don’t have to like it, but I do. And at least it turns your head!”

An elite cyclocross racer, former biologist and co-founder of Squid Bikes, Kachorek discovered her creative side early on. “I used to build bows and arrows and slingshots when I was a kid,” she says. Now she gets paid to spray paint bikes with flashy patterns and to make bike gear that stands out even when covered in mud.

Squid started partly because of failure. In 2013, Kachorek worked with a bike company to design a frame to match their neon gear at the time—but the paint job came back the wrong shade of yellow. She asked the owner of the brand if she could fix it herself. “I glued the shit out of the frame,” she says, laughing. “It was neon vomit. It looked unlike anything else out there. I wondered if I would be embarrassed at the start line.”

Instead, Kachorek discovered that people liked her bold and playful style. She and her Squid Bikes co-founders sourced American-made aluminum frames and began spray-painting. “I’m an 80’s kid; I love naughty neon things,” says Kachorek. “I realized that bikes don’t look like that. They are black and red and white and blue. I like to think that we helped that culture develop a bit.”

“Not many people do that,” Kachorek says of Squid’s vibrant aesthetic. “But people connect with it.” Carl Costas

Kachorek founded Squid not only to share her own vision, but also to give other riders the opportunity to realize theirs: the company sells several frames (as well as framesets and different builds) that customers can finish themselves, or you can build the frame have them painted by Squid Bikes. Squid also sells Sprayed n Ready frames that they painted but never built. (They are usually from fairs, but sometimes they sell frames painted by selected artists.)

This content will be imported from {embed-name}. You may find the same content in a different format or more information on their website.

One of Kachorek’s all-time favorite bikes was a creamsicle and cloud design that came to her in a dream. She painted the frame in front of an audience at a gravel road race to show how easy the process can be. “It’s our way of having fun and not taking everything so seriously,” she says. “It won’t be perfect, but it will be yours.”

Cyclocross racer Samantha Runnels from Team Squid x Eliel. Icon Sportswire Getty Images

6 tips for painting a bike

Whether you’ve always wanted to try your own custom paint job on your bike or have recently dusted off your bike due to COVID-19, giving your bike a fresh look is always a good idea. Along with Kachorek’s advice, we’ve put together some tips for a successful paint job.

1. Practice first

If this is your first time painting a bike, or if you are going to use a different color than last time, you may want to practice. You can experiment with a cheap frame that you don’t mind screwing up, or even a cheap metal tube.

2. Prepare the bike

You should make sure that the frame is ready for painting. First clean it with rubbing alcohol and a lint-free cloth. Make sure the frame is completely clean. Unless it’s raw aluminum, steel, or carbon, sand it down lightly so the paint has something to stick to. Use 1000-1500 grit sandpaper and rub just enough to texture the surface – you don’t want to completely remove any material.

3. Choose your color

It’s important to choose a quality paint that will last, so check your local art stores. Look for a low-pressure can – the slower the paint comes out, the easier it is to work with. Squid sells its own paint, Spray.Bike, on its website, and Montana paint is another good option. Whatever you end up choosing, don’t mix marks or lines, as different colors can react badly with each other.

4. Break out the tape

Place painter’s tape over parts of the frame where components will be attached: bottom bracket, seat tube, head tube, and dropouts. According to Kachorek, it works well on Squid’s aluminum frames. You can also use masking tape to mask off areas of the bike while you create your design – just make sure your base layer is completely dry or the paint could come off with the masking tape.

5. Set up your workspace

While doable, painting your bike while holding it is a hassle, so be sure to secure your frame so you can paint it without touching it. You can clamp the head tube onto a dowel and clamp the dowel into a stand, or just thread a cord or cord through the top tube and hang it from a rafter. You may also want to put a drop cloth on top to catch overspray.

6. Spray away

First, Kachorek says to shake the can for three minutes before using it. Then check the can to see how far away you should hold it when spraying. (Spray.Bike should be held closer to the bike than other paints, between 1 and 4 inches away.) Paint should be sprayed evenly and one coat at a time. Also, keep your hand at a steady pace while spraying.

Also consider the weather. Kachorek recommends painting in dry weather (most important) and preferably in warmer temperatures and lower humidity. Make sure to give the paint enough time to dry before layering different colors or applying a second layer.

And play around! The beauty of DIY is that there are no wrong answers. If you need more advice on painting your bike, check out painting tips at Squidbikes.com.

This content is created and maintained by a third party and imported to this page to help users provide their email addresses. You may find more information about this and similar content on piano.io

Can you use car paint on a bike frame?

Provided you do the general preparation and degreasing well, careful layering using cans of car spray paint can result in an excellent finish.

Spray.Bike Frame Builder’s Smoothing Putty

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Everyone will have a different idea of ​​what it’s worth spending on a frame refurbishment. A rational output based on the final value needs to be balanced against the impossible-to-quantify emotional attachment some frames attract.

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At one end of the spectrum, you could just peel off all the pieces, spend time with a pot of paint stripper and emery cloth, and then repaint with the brush in whatever Hammerite color you like.

Provided you do a good job of general prep and degreasing, careful layering with cans of automotive paint can result in a superb finish. Practice before you start and wear a mask.

There’s an art to spraying a bike frame well without getting drips and bumps, and you really don’t want to inhale that drifting spray!

At the other end of the spectrum, you can pay a specialist like Argos Cycles to sandblast or chemically strip a frame and apply your choice of colour(s), new graphics and top coat.

While you’re at it, you can install disc brake hubs, chrome parts of the frame, add extra water bottle or rack hubs, or even completely replace a damaged tube.

Most specialists repair steel frames, while a minority also deal with aluminium, carbon fiber and titanium. The cost will vary depending on who you choose.

Here we refurbish the only Reynolds 853 singlespeed specific frame Canadian builder Chris DeKerf has ever built to have a high value that it wants to keep despite being left in the garage for years with a seatpost corroded in it.

bike radar

A blowtorch was used to pull out the seatpost, heat it to the melting point and pour it out in molten gobs. We also stripped the paint around the head tube to ensure the top and down tube connections weren’t damaged from falls. It was then sent to Argos Cycles, Bristol’s refurbishment specialists.

We explain what Argos did to make our old frame look as good as new…

1. Strip components

This is important to properly paint a frame. Aside from the headset and bottom bracket cups, complete disassembly is easy in most cases using allen wrenches, a chain splitter, and cable cutters.

The headset cups can be tapped out with a hammer and a long piece of metal, but a headset cup remover will work better. A tool to remove your threaded bottom bracket shells will cost around £10>£15.

bike radar

2. Stuck parts

A stuck seat post in an old frame is a common problem. In this case we had to heat the frame (with a blowtorch) to the point where the aluminum post melted.

Of course, that’s not possible with an aluminum frame, but most refurbishment specialists have their own secret methods for removing stuck parts, including bottom bracket shells and broken bottle cage bolts.

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3. Structural problems

Don’t commit to a renovation until you’ve checked all the important parts for damage. If you can remember a frontal collision, be aware of any welded or soldered joints, especially behind the head tube.

Make sure all tubing is straight and that rust spots do not affect the structure of the frame. Most renovation specialists can fix a connection or even fit new pipe, but it may not be worth the expense.

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4. Cable guides

This is also a good time to assess your cable runs. Many riders want to convert an old frame to disc brakes or install full outer cables instead of broken cables.

All of these detail changes are possible and can easily be done by a specialist like Argos Cycles while the paint is being removed from the bike. Make sure you get a quote as all the small changes can quickly add up to a lot of extra money.

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5. Bottle bosses

Adding additional bottle necks is a frequently requested change during renovation. This is easy and relatively inexpensive to achieve, and can be done even if you’re not ready for a repaint.

Ditto for Crudguard mounts under the down tube and, in most cases, threaded rack mounts on the seatstays. If you want to add threaded tabs for fenders and a rack at the dropouts, just make sure the tubing isn’t too thin at the fixed points.

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6. Seat clamps

The DeKerf frame was made with a welded, threaded seatpost clamp. Ours was fine but these often stretch with use. They can be easily removed and replaced with a slide-on all-round clamp.

We know many riders who have taken a refurbishment opportunity to upgrade that part of the frame with a support wedge, which is particularly useful for increasing the strength of a frame with an extended seat tube and long seatpost.

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7. Failures

A popular renovation conversion is replacing the wheel dropouts on a frame. This could be because the derailleur hanger has entered the wheel and damaged the dropouts, or you are having the frame converted from geared to single-speed use.

Now it’s time to start thinking about adding a disc brake mount to an old steel frame and removing the cantilever brake hubs in the process.

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8. Bottom bracket

Damaged bottom bracket threads are another typical problem with old frames. There are several possible solutions from re-tapping the threads to replacing the entire bottom bracket shell.

We once had a steel frame “cut and closed” – the underside of the shell was cut then pulled together and welded again, reducing the size of the shell slightly before tapping the new thread.

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9. Color choice

If you’ve got the budget, anything from simple, super tough “school railing green” (our pick for the DeKerf) to fancy metallics, contrasting swatches, and gradual color fades is possible. If you’re feeling extra flush, you might even consider color-coordinating your fork and stem. A renovation specialist can usually also match original manufacturer colors.

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10. Shot peening

Paint stripping chemicals work well for DIY spray jobs or with a softer material frame, but shot/grit blasting is the quickest and most thorough method on most steel frames.

It will also highlight any issues such as: B. Rust spots that have become pinholes (these can be filled), giving you one last chance to abandon the expensive part of the renovation job if a problem is structurally significant.

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11th amendment

A popular upgrade is chrome plating on the dropouts or the entire right chainstay. Adding disc brake tabs or cable guides (perhaps for full outer cables) is also an easy task, as is replacing the rear derailleur hanger if you’ve twisted and weakened the current one when inserting your rear shifter mechanism into the spokes.

12. Tools

Logically, it’s rarely worth swapping out entire frame tubes, but it’s easy to become emotionally attached to a favorite frame, so removing and replacing a badly corroded, dented, or damaged section isn’t out of the question.

A professional usually has options to vacuum or fill dents prior to a final paint job. Never assume that something is impossible. Always ask.

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Step 13: Spray Frame

Spray painting a bike frame is a skilled job when it comes to achieving a truly professional, evenly applied finish that’s tough enough to last. We’ve seen good-looking, inexpensive DIYs, but it’s difficult to get a finish that really shows off the quality of a valuable frame when you do it yourself. Just pay for a pro and think about spreading the cost over years.

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14. Decals

Most manufacturers can provide ready-made decals for frame renovations. It pays to have them professionally applied and sealed with paint as part of the repainting.

Aligning stickers and applying them without wrinkles or bubbles takes practice, and you don’t want to waste the money spent messing up the application. Most specialist renovators can supply tube decals.

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15. Completion

A coat of paint is the final touch of a professional renovation. It gives extra resilience to the paint and seals the decals. Depending on the desired effect, you can choose between glossy, matt or silk varnish.

It’s also a good time to think about covering the bottom bracket threads neatly or adding clear protective tape to protect the paintwork from cable abrasions, chain slaps or rocks spraying off the front wheel and damaging the underside of the downtube.

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16. Welcome home

In most cases a frame is ready to build as soon as you get it home, but occasionally the final coat of paint or varnish can be a little soft for a few days, so if you can wait a while it’s worth it.

Think carefully about how you are going to rebuild the bike and be sure to remove excess paint from the bottom bracket threads, head tube and seat tube. In most cases, a specialist renovator will do this for you.

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Essential tools

Allen key

chain splitter

multiple tool

hammer

metal rod

Press headset

You will need a full allen wrench set and a chain breaker for initial disassembly and reassembly. A multi-tool can be enough for everything but the headset and bottom bracket (BB) cups.

Check what tools are needed to remove and install the crankset and bottom bracket. There are different options for different units.

A hammer and a long piece of metal can work to remove the headset cups, but you risk damaging the cups if you try to put them back in without a headset press. A press costs around £35, or take the frame to your local shop and have them do it.

Best Tips

Future Proof: The expense of adding disc brake hubs to a frame can be worth it, but think about how much you’re spending on a frame with say a 1″ steerer designed for a short fork. Your choices of 1″ steerer stems and short forks will be extremely limited!

Check for Damage: Undoubtedly an old frame has crashed, which may have resulted in structural damage. If you’re having a frame repainted, it’s easy to strip off sections of paint to inspect tubing and connections. Crashed aluminum frames can show stress cracks that are not obvious when painted. Look closely at steel frames if you see an area of ​​corrosion that could be more than superficial;

Check the top tube connection behind the head tube before committing to the cost of a repaint. This is an area that is often damaged by frontal impacts.

before you embark on the expense of a repaint. This is an area that is often damaged by frontal impacts. It’s easy for a frame refurbishment specialist to reinforce, swap out, or rethread a seatpost clamp on an old frame. This is a common area of ​​damage or weakness.

on an old frame. This is a common area of ​​damage or weakness. If your headset cups are loose, it could mean that the steerer tube has spread slightly in an impact. A renovation specialist will be able to correct this.

was spread slightly on impact. A renovation specialist will be able to correct this. Damaged bottom bracket threads can be built up and recut. In extreme cases, a new bottom bracket shell can be fitted.

Dropouts: A good frame rebuild specialist can easily replace the wheel dropouts on your frame if you decide to do a single speed conversion or need a derailleur hanger repair.

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Added Protection: The two part epoxy finish we chose for the DeKerf will hopefully prevent stone chip damage to the underside of the down tube. Alternatively attach frame protection tape.

Which spray paint is best for metal?

Which Are the Best Spray Paints for Metal Surfaces
  • Rust-Oleum American Accents Spray Paint.
  • Rust-Oleum Painter’s Touch Spray Paint. …
  • Rust-Oleum Chalked Spray Paint. …
  • Krylon Fusion All-In-One Spray Paint. …
  • Rust-Oleum Metallic Spray Paint. …
  • Krylon ColorMaster Paint and Primer. …
  • Krylon COVERMAXX.

Spray.Bike Frame Builder’s Smoothing Putty

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One of the last things a metal worker will do before considering a job fully completed is to apply a coat of paint to give their project a whole new look and then a metal finish spray can can be extremely useful.

The great thing about spray paint is that it’s very easy to use, so even kids can use it without much practice (although adult supervision is something we recommend), making it one of the easiest tools to use for anyone Handyman makes project.

Of course, you’re not doing this just for aesthetic reasons, as a coat of quality paint can also protect the metallic finish from all manner of environmental hazards like rain and ambient humidity, as well as physical damage like abrasion or chipping.

However, since the paint you use is literally the first thing you see, you need to make sure you’re getting a quality product and not something cheap that blisters, swells and cracks too easily.

The problem is that there are many spray paints that you can buy, and even individual manufacturers have a variety of separate product lines for specific scenarios, which can make choosing the right product very difficult.

That’s why we decided to do the groundwork for you and compile a list of the best spray paints you can use on metal surfaces, and we’ve included products that work for a variety of needs and scenarios.

Of course we will not recommend any specific colors as this is just a matter of personal taste, but our selection is based on more practical criteria. For example, regular red color, which is durable, is much more desirable than lighter shades of red, which don’t even last a year.

Not only that, but right after the list we’re going to add a few tips and tricks for choosing the right spray paint based on what exactly you’re trying to do.

A Guide to Buying Spray Paints for Metal Finishes

So far you’ve read what all of the products on our list can do and it’s understandable if you’re under the impression that pretty much any spray paint will do, but the truth is that not every single type of spray paint can be used on metal surfaces .

In fact, choosing the wrong type can result in paint not adhering well, leading to cracking and chipping, and even if the paint adheres well enough, the finish can either end up looking patchy or uneven.

There is a wide variety of products on the market, so you need to look at all the features, pros and cons of each spray paint to choose the right one for you.

With that in mind, here are a few things to look out for if you’re interested in buying the right type of paint to use on metal.

type of color

The first thing to consider when choosing paint for metal surfaces is whether it is a water based acrylic paint or an oil based enamel as this can make the biggest difference in how well the paint will adhere and how long it will last.

When it comes to metallic surfaces, the best choice is a heavy duty enamel paint as it is oil based which means it will take longer to dry but the finish will last much longer.

In addition, oil-based paints behave much better at lower temperatures and can cover the material so well that a second coat applied afterwards may not even be necessary.

Interior vs. exterior color

Next you need to consider whether the metallic object you want to paint will be indoors or outdoors as environmental conditions can also affect the quality of the paintwork in the long run.

For example, indoor spray paints don’t have the same water resistance and durability as outdoor paints (they have to withstand wind, dew, humidity, etc.). On the other hand, because indoor spray paints don’t need to be as durable, manufacturers can make them in a wider range of colors.

Painted with primers

When you want to paint a surface, especially one as smooth as metal, you usually need to apply a coat of primer first to help the paint adhere better to the material.

However, it can be time consuming to apply a coat of primer and then allow it to dry before applying the first coat of paint. Because of this, many manufacturers have started developing spray paints that have primers mixed into the base formula.

durability

When it comes to colour, durability is a bit of a vague term as it is a criterion that is actually the result of several other criteria such as: B. Water resistance, moisture resistance, adhesion and more.

Nonetheless, if you’re the type of person who likes to think long-term, it would be ideal if you opted for a spray paint that’s labeled as durable, long-lasting or something similar, especially if it’s a metallic object the people in question will be using sit in areas with extreme environmental conditions.

moisture resistance

Moisture is probably the number 1 environmental hazard for exposed metallic surfaces in general, but also for painted metallic surfaces, or at least if you’re not using the right kind of paint.

Fortunately, most prayer paints come with high moisture resistance as standard.

However, remember that no matter how water resistant a paint is, you still need to protect it from all types of moisture from the moment you first apply it to a surface and until the moment it dries, since itself Water trapped in it A coat of paint will not only ruin the paint itself, it can also cause the metal underneath to rust.

temperature range

While interior paints don’t have to deal with extreme temperature swings, exterior paints do as they are exposed to everything from the long, sweltering hot summer days to the long, cold winter nights.

Another thing to remember is that metal in general is a very good conductor of heat and you probably know those videos where people sometimes cook their food on the roof of their car just because of the sun exposure .

So if you want to avoid having paintwork peeling, melting, or generally ruining it after several seasons, make sure you buy spray paint that’s labeled heat-resistant.

adhesion

The main cause of paint chipping, chipping, air and moisture entrapment is poor adhesion, a criterion that determines how good the bond between the paint and the material will be.

While you could always balance this out with a primer, they don’t always work as intended and a paint with good adhesion is still recommended.

In addition, good adhesion ensures that the paint adheres to even the shiniest surfaces such as glass components or, in our case, very well polished metal.

One last thing to remember is that if you put too many coats of paint on an object, the color will degrade faster because even with good adhesion, coats of paint will stick to other coats of paint instead of having a direct metal-to- lacquer connection.

drying speed

This particular property is especially important if you work outdoors and use exterior paints because, as mentioned earlier, a fresh coat of paint is most vulnerable until it has dried.

Because of this, you should always look for spray paints that dry as quickly as possible.

However, we’ve already found that water-based acrylic paints dry the fastest but don’t last very long, especially on metal surfaces and outdoors. So if you’re going to depend on oil paints anyway, you might as well get the fastest drying ones out there.

On the other hand, quick drying water based acrylic paint can also come in handy because you have to apply multiple coats of paint anyway and wait for 3 coats of paint to dry 30 minutes each is much better than having to wait 60 minutes each.

UV protection

UV protection is another important criterion, but it has less to do with protecting the metal than with the paint itself.

You see, all outdoor objects are affected by hours of UV exposure from the sun, and objects that aren’t painted with UV resistant paint usually fade in color fairly quickly due to a phenomenon known as sun fading.

So if you want your paint jobs to retain their vibrant color and luster for longer, opt for spray paints that are UV resistant (most outdoor spray paints are standard).

What are the best spray paints for metal surfaces?

The first spray paint on our list is American Accents Rust-Oleum Spray Paint, a high quality paint can that can be used for both interior and exterior painting and on all types of materials including metal, wood, plastic, ceramic, etc.

As it is also suitable for outdoor use, it dries as quickly as possible (approx. 20 minutes), it is also very durable and offers any surface both full coverage and active protection against environmental hazards.

Speaking of finishes, a single can of paint can cover up to 12 square feet, getting all your projects done in no time and with minimal investment.

Using the spray can itself is also very comfortable, even if you hold it down until it’s empty, thanks to the angle-independent spray comfort tip, which significantly reduces finger fatigue.

In terms of aesthetics, this range of spray paints comes in 5 different colors namely Apple Red, Candy Pink, Golden Suns, Ivory and Poppy Red, all of which come with a glossy finish.

If this spray paint is what you’re looking for, see what other users have to say about it by visiting the Rust-Oleum American Accents Paint Amazon page.

Specifications:

Type: Enamel

Enamel colors: apple red, candy pink, golden sun, ivory and poppy red

Apple Red, Candy Pink, Golden Sun, Ivory and Poppy Red Finish: Glossy

Glossy surfaces: plastic, vinyl, wood, drywall, metal, wicker

Plastic, Vinyl, Wood, Drywall, Metal, Wicker Size: 12 oz

Advantages:

Any spray angle Comfort tip

Available in 5 glossy colors

Fast drying paint

Continuous

Disadvantages:

Adhesion to plastic is not very good.

Amazon

Last on our list is a spray paint that emphasizes opacity and the ability to do as much with as little material as possible, and it’s called Rust-Oleum Painter’s Touch Spray Paint.

Ideal for indoor and outdoor surfaces, it easily adheres to almost any surface you can find inside and outside the home, including metal, wood, plastic, plaster, masonry or unglazed ceramic.

The formula is oil-based (enamel), has no unpleasant odor when freshly applied, resists chipping, abrasion and wrinkling, offering protection to any surface, especially metallic, from any type of external environmental aggression, thanks in particular to its rust-resistant composition.

Using this spray paint is just as satisfying as the result as the can comes with a convenient spray tip whilst also being able to spray at any angle so you don’t have to worry about areas that would otherwise be harder to reach.

Once you’ve finished spraying the surface, all you have to do is wait about 20 minutes before it’s dry to the touch.

However, what makes this paint particularly amazing is the fact that despite having so many protective features and adhesion to so many surfaces, they have managed to make it in 44 different colors and 4 different finishes, so changing the look of everyday objects is a breeze.

If you’re as impressed with this prayer paint as we are, grab a few cans from the Amazon page of Rust-Oleum Painter’s Touch Spray Paint before they run out.

Specifications:

Type: Enamel

Colors: Gloss Black, Gloss Almond, Gloss Red Apple, Gloss Berry Pink, Gloss Brilliant Blue, Gloss Candy Pink, Gloss Chestnut, Gloss Clear, Gloss Colonial Red, Gloss Coral, Gloss Dark Grey, Gloss Deep Blue, Gloss Golden Sunset, Gloss Grape, Hunter Green Gloss, Ivory Gloss, Key Lime Gloss, Khaki Gloss, Kona Brown Gloss, Marigold Gloss, Meadow Green Gloss, Modern Mint Gloss, Navajo White Gloss, Navy Blue Gloss, Navajo White Gloss, Ocean Mist Gloss, Peony Pink Gloss , Glossy Purple, Glossy Real Orange, Glossy Sage Green, Glossy Seaside, Glossy Solstice Blue, Glossy Spa Blue, Glossy Spring Green, Glossy Sunshine Yellow, Glossy Warm Yellow, Glossy White, Glossy Winter Gray, Aluminum Metallic, Black Semi-Gloss, Semi-Gloss Clear, Semi-Gloss Hunter Green, Semi-Gloss Ivory Bisque, Semi-Gloss White

Gloss Black, Gloss Almond, Gloss Red Apple, Gloss Berry Pink, Gloss Brilliant Blue, Gloss Candy Pink, Gloss Chestnut, Gloss Clear, Gloss Colonial Red, Gloss Coral, Gloss Dark Grey, Gloss Deep Blue, Gloss Golden Sunset, Gloss Gloss Grape , Gloss Hunter Green, Gloss Ivory, Gloss Key Lime, Gloss Khaki, Gloss Kona Brown, Gloss Marigold, Gloss Meadow Green, Gloss Modern Mint, Gloss Navajo White, Gloss Navy Blue, Gloss Navajo White, Gloss Ocean Mist, Gloss Pink Peony, Gloss Violet, Gloss True Orange, Gloss Sage Green, Gloss Seaside, Gloss Solstice Blue, Gloss Spa Blue, Gloss Spring Green, Gloss Sunshine Yellow, Gloss Warm Yellow, Gloss White, Gloss Winter Gray, Aluminum Metallic, Black Semi-Gloss, Gloss Clear, Semi-Gloss Hunter Green, Semi-Gloss Ivory Bisque, Semi-Gloss White Finish: Glossy, Semi-Gloss, Metallic

Glossy, satin, metallic finishes: metal, mesh

Metal, Willow Size: 12 ounces

Advantages:

Offers lots of coverage.

Available in 44 different colors

Comes with 4 different finishes

Good for indoor and outdoor work

Disadvantages:

Keep the nozzle end clean or it will clog

Amazon

If you’re not too into shiny or vibrant colors, this next spray paint is sure to catch your eye.

Rust-Oleum Chalk Spray Paint is another Rust-Oleum product. It offers a much wider range of colors, although it’s softer and warmer than vibrant and flashy, making it an ideal choice if you’re planning on gifting your everyday items with a vintage look.

This paint works on a wide variety of materials, not just metal, such as wood, ceramic or canvas, and thanks to the oil-based formula, the adhesion of the paint is so high that it will remain attached to that particular surface long after use. I’m sick of the color myself.

Speaking of colors, this paint comes in 13 different shades, all of which have an elegant matte finish that is very pleasing to the eye and will add a vintage look to any surface they are applied to.

Once you’ve applied one coat it only takes 20 minutes for it to be dry to the touch and a single can of paint can cover you up to 12 square feet completely and since you rarely need more than one coat for anything, large projects can come with a very small number of spray cans to be completed.

However, since all colors are so light, dark surfaces will require a few extra coats to get the right shade. Additionally, with metallic or glass surfaces, you may need to use some extra layers as well.

If you love living in a vintage looking environment, don’t miss the chance to get Amazon’s Rust-Oleum Chalk Spray Paint, so go ahead, browse and see what amazing colors they stock have, and see what used to be buyers thought about the product.

Specifications:

Type: Enamel

Enamel Colors: Charcoal, Cream Chiffon, Country Grey, Linen White, Serenity Blue, Aged Grey, Blush Pink, Clear Matte, Coastal Blue, Farmhouse Red, Semi-Transparent Aged Brown, Semi-Transparent Smoked Black, Tidal Pond

Charcoal, Chiffon Creme, Country Grey, Linen White, Serenity Blue, Aged Grey, Blush Pink, Matt Clear, Coastal Blue, Farmhouse Red, Semi-Transparent Aged Brown, Semi-Transparent Smoked Black, Tidal Pond Finish: Matt

Matte surfaces: metal, wood, ceramic and canvas

Metal, Wood, Ceramic, and Canvas Size: 12 ounces

Advantages:

Only one coat is required on most surfaces

The oil-based formula for extra resistance

Available in 13 different colors

Elegant matte finish

Disadvantages:

It may clog if you don’t shake it well before using

Amazon

As you can probably guess from the name, Krylon Fusion All-In-One Spray Paint is designed to be a multi-purpose spray paint that you can use on items made of any material.

It is characterized by very good adhesion, durability and rust protection. So when you apply a coat of paint to a metal surface, you not only give it a new look, you also protect it.

Also, you don’t have to waste time applying primer and then applying the color as this product already has primer in its formula making it a time saver.

Not only that, this paint requires no prior sanding and adheres to even the smoothest of surfaces including plastic, glass, plaster, laminate, etc.

It feels dry in less than 20 minutes and fully dries in about an hour, while the sweep-over window is either within 2 hours or 48 hours, depending on what you’re trying to do.

Another nice thing about this spray paint is that while it’s still 12 ounces like the previous entries, a single can offers full coverage of up to 25 square feet.

As for the colors available, unfortunately this product is only available in black, although there are many variations depending on what type of finish you want for the black color.

For example, you can choose from metallic, glossy, matte, satin, flat, hammered, and textured finishes.

If you have things both inside and outside the house that you have been wanting to paint for a long time, now is your chance. Go to the Krylon Fusion All-In-One Spray Paint Amazon page and select the paint job that you think best suits your project.

Specifications:

Type: Acrylic

Acrylic Colors: Black

Black Finishes: Metallic, gloss, matte, satin, flat, hammered and textured

Metallic, shiny, matte, satin, flat, hammered and textured surfaces: metal, plastic, wood, PVC, tiles

Metal, Plastic, Wood, PVC, Tile Size: 12 oz

Advantages:

Covers better than other spray paints

Available in 7 different finishes

Good adhesion

Fast drying

Disadvantages:

Only available in black

Amazon

If you’re a big fan of metalworking, or at least anything that looks like metal, then you’ll be happy to hear about Rust-Oleum Metallic Spray Paint.

It’s available in 14 different colors, all of which have either a metallic theme or at least a metallic finish, with the most popular being the gold, bronze, copper and silver hues.

It works on all types of surfaces, not just metal, and it also sticks well to materials like wood, concrete, masonry and more.

However, this paint isn’t just about making things look metallic, it’s also about protecting any metal surface you apply it to. For example, paint contains several corrosion-resistant substances that prevent damage from things like rust from occurring, even when exposed outdoors.

Additionally, once the paint is fully dry (takes about 20 minutes), the finish is protected from abrasion, fading and even chipping, making this paint an ideal choice if you are looking to bring old metal patio furniture back to life.

A can of this paint covers 15 square feet, and because it dries so quickly, your painting job will be completed in no time with minimal investment.

If this product has caught your eye and you want to turn that old rusty lawn chair into a gold throne, visit the Rust-Oleum Metallic Spray Paint page on Amazon and choose from the many different colors.

Specifications:

Type: Enamel

Enamel Colors: Antique Brass, Black Night, Charcoal, Cobalt Blue, Gold Rush, Matte Nickel, Rose Gold, Silver, Warm Gold, Dark Copper, Champagne Bronze, Racing Green, Vintage Copper, Dark Bronze

Antique Brass, Black Night, Charcoal, Cobalt Blue, Gold Rush, Matte Nickel, Rose Gold, Silver, Warm Gold, Dark Copper, Champagne Bronze, Racing Green, Vintage Copper, Dark Bronze Finish: Metallic

Metallic surfaces: metal, wood, concrete, masonry and other exterior materials

Metal, wood, concrete, masonry and other outdoor materials Size: 11 ounces

Advantages:

Perfect for outdoor projects

anti-rust formula

Beautiful colors

UV-resistant

Disadvantages:

Some of the colors are darker than what the label says

Amazon

There’s no shame in admitting that sometimes we want to paint something, not because it’s old or damaged or because we want to protect it, but because we just want to change the color.

Well, if you’re the kind of person who likes to turn red things green and gray things sapphire blue on a whim, then here’s the perfect product for you: the Krylon ColorMaster paint and primer.

This versatile spray paint works on all types of surfaces, not just metal, especially common indoor surfaces such as wood, plastic or masonry, and is perfect for both interior and exterior projects.

Speaking of plastic, you’ve probably heard how difficult it can sometimes be to paint over plastic without first applying a primer. Well, you don’t have to do that when using this color from Krylon as it already has a primer in the formula and also gets a touch in about 10 minutes.

However, the true highlight of this particular product (which is probably where the name ColorMaster comes from) is the fact that it comes in 54 different colors ranging from the most vibrant reds to toned down and elegant shades of grey, ivory or white.

Not only that, the color comes in 8 different finishes, so it doesn’t matter if you want to paint your fence silver or you just want to give your favorite lamp a good old periwinkle finish, this color is perfect for you.

If you too are excited about having the full visible spectrum in one can, then choose your favorite color from the Krylon ColorMaster Paint and Primer Amazon page.

Specifications:

Type: Enamel

Enamel Colors: Black, Sparkling Canyon, Clear, White, Almond, Banner Red, Bauhaus Gold, Blue Ocean Breeze, Bright Idea, Cherry Red, Dover White, Equestrian, Hunter Green, Ivory, Ivy Leaf, Leather Brown, Navy Blue, Peekaboo Blue , Pewter Grey, Pumpkin Orange, Violet, Royal Blue, Smoky Grey, Sunshine Yellow, True Blue, Watermelon, Aqua, Bordeaux, Cocoa Bean, Jet Grey, Glacial, Sea Green, Brushed Nickel, Gold, Oil Finish Bronze, Grey, Red Oxide, Bright White, Brown Boots, Meringue , Oxford Blue, Classic Grey, Periwinkle

Black, Sparkling Canyon, Clear, White, Almond, Banner Red, Bauhaus Gold, Blue Ocean Breeze, Bright Idea, Cherry Red, Dover White, Equestrian, Hunter Green, Ivory, Ivy Leaf, Leather Brown, Navy Blue, Peekaboo Blue, Pewter Grey, Pumpkin Orange, Violet, Royal Blue, Smoky Grey, Sunshine Yellow, True Blue, Watermelon, Aqua, Bordeaux, Cocoa Bean, Jet Grey, Glacial, Coastal Green, Brushed Nickel, Gold, Oil Finish Bronze, Grey, Red Oxide, Bright White, Brown Boots, Meringue, Oxford Blue, Classic Grey, Periwinkle Finish: Metallic, matte, gloss, matte, primer, satin, semi-matte, semi-gloss

Metallic, matte, gloss, matte, primer, satin, semi-matte, semi-gloss Surfaces: metal, plastic, wood, etc

Metal, Plastic, Wood, etc. Size: 11oz, 12oz, 15oz

Advantages:

Available in 54 different colors

Available in 8 different finishes

Comes with primer in the formula

Good for indoors and outdoors

Disadvantages:

Can be a little difficult to spray

Amazon

Just like the previous product, Krylon COVERMAXX is a type of spray paint that works on almost any type of surface and comes in 29 different colors, all with a fabulous glossy finish.

If you’re interested in applying paint the old-fashioned way with a brush, that paint is also available in the traditional 1/2-pint can, but for those of you who prefer to work in a much cleaner way, there’s always that 12 ounce aerosol can, and some of the paints are also available in a 15 ounce version.

It works on all types of surfaces, especially metal and wood, although we have to mention that it doesn’t stick well to plastic or soft vinyl.

Because the paint is acrylic based, it dries extremely quickly (about 10 minutes or less) so you can finish your work extremely quickly and start painting other items as well.

Another way to save time with this color is the fact that you don’t need any prep like applying a primer before use as the primer is already mixed into the formula of the color.

Speaking of the formula, the paint also has anti-rust properties, making it an ideal choice for anyone who cares about the longevity of their metal finishes, not just their looks.

If you’re curious what some of the colors of this paint look like, you can browse them all on the Krylon COVERMAXX Amazon page.

Specifications:

Type: Acrylic

Acrylic Colors: Banner Red, Black, Classic Grey, Leather Brown, Ocean Breeze, Rich Plum, Watermelon, White, Clear, Almond, Bright Idea, Brown Boots, Burgundy, Grey, Gum Drop, Hosta Leaf, Island Splash, Ivory, Jade , Khaki, Meringue, Pistachio, Pumpkin Orange, Purple, Raspberry, Sea Glass, Sea Green, Smoke Gray, Sparkling Canyon

Banner Red, Black, Classic Gray, Leather Brown, Ocean Breeze, Rich Plum, Watermelon, White, Clear, Almond, Bright Idea, Brown Boots, Burgundy, Gray, Gummy Bear, Hosta Leaf, Island Splash, Ivory, Jade, Khaki, Meringue, Pistachio, Pumpkin Orange , Purple, Raspberry, Sea Glass, Sea Green, Smoke Gray, Sparkling Canyon Finish: Glossy

Shiny surfaces: metal, wood

Metal, Wood Size: 1/2 pint, 12 oz, 15 oz

Advantages:

painter + primer

Anti-rust formula

Good adhesion to metal

Conical easy-push spray tip

Disadvantages:

Will not work on soft vinyl/plastic surfaces

Amazon

No matter the type of product, we always tend to buy the ones that can do as many tasks as possible, and the same goes for spray paint.

You see, when preparing a surface for painting you sometimes need to sand and prime it first, but that’s no longer the case when you choose Krylon SUPERMAXX All-In-One Spray Paint.

The special formula of this acrylic paint allows for easy adhesion to all types of surfaces including metal, plastic, laminate, wood and/or masonry and the adhesion and durability are quite impressive.

Those of you who are particularly interested in painting metal surfaces will also appreciate the fact that this paint already comes with a primer, which saves you a lot of time since no pre-coating is required.

In fact, any paint job requires minimal prep work as you basically just wipe the area down with a clean towel and water, let it dry, mask off anything that needs masking and spray away. Also, the jet of the spray is pretty fast, applying a lot of coating in just a few seconds, so you don’t waste time trying to cover every patch of material.

One thing that many of you might consider a disadvantage is that this color only comes in one color, Field Green, but we would like to point out that this particular shade of green actually looks very pleasing as it isn’t too vibrant nor too faded .

If you’re a fan of the color green, you’ll definitely love this spray paint, so go ahead and see what other users think about it by visiting the Krylon SUPERMAXX All-In-One Spray Paint Amazon page.

Specifications:

Type: Acrylic

Acrylic paints: field green

Field Green Finish: Glossy

Shiny surfaces: metal, plastics, laminates, melamine and wood

Metal, Plastics, Laminates, Melamine, and Wood Size: 12 ounces

Advantages:

color + primer

Good rust protection

Requires no prior preparation

Good for plastic and laminate

Disadvantages:

Available in one color only

Amazon

Einer der wichtigsten Aspekte, auf die Sie beim Kauf von Sprühfarbe achten müssen, ist die Haftung, die sie hat, und nur wenige können in dieser Hinsicht auch nur annähernd an das heranreichen, was die Krylon Dual Superbond-Farbe und -Grundierung bieten kann.

Daher ist es ideal für jede Art von Oberfläche, von wirklich rauen wie Holz, Keramik, Mauerwerk oder Beton bis hin zu wirklich glatten Oberflächen, auf denen andere Farben nicht richtig haften können, wie Metall, Aluminium, Glas oder Kunststoff.

Metallurgiebegeisterte werden außerdem zu schätzen wissen, dass diese Farbe sowohl für Innen- als auch für Außenarbeiten verwendet werden kann und einen guten Rostschutz bietet, sodass eine Lackierung auch zu einem Akt der Pflege wird.

Natürlich ist Farbe immer noch Farbe, und der Hauptgrund, warum Sie jemals Farbe verwenden möchten, ist, das Aussehen eines Gegenstands zu verändern, und da dieses spezielle Produkt in 22 verschiedenen Farben und 3 verschiedenen Ausführungen erhältlich ist, haben Sie reichlich davon Optionen zur Auswahl.

Darüber hinaus streicht dieses duale System Ihre Oberfläche nicht nur, sondern bereitet sie dank der 2-in-1-Formel von Krylon auch mit Grundierung vor.

Sie können sich alle 22 verschiedenen Farben von Krylon Dual Superbond Paint und Primer ansehen, indem Sie die Amazon-Seite besuchen, und während Sie dort sind, schauen Sie sich an, was andere Kunden zu sagen haben, und entscheiden Sie selbst, ob Dies ist die Farbe für Sie oder nicht.

Specifications:

Typ: Emaille

Lackfarben: Almond glänzend, Burgund glänzend, Kirschrot glänzend, Klassikgrau glänzend, Feldgrün glänzend, Jägergrün glänzend, Elfenbein glänzend, Khaki glänzend, Lederbraun, Mandarin glänzend, Kolbengrau glänzend, Violett glänzend, Regalblau glänzend, Rauchglas Grau, Sonnengelb glänzend, True Blue glänzend, Adobe-Satin, Mandel-Satin, Burgund-Satin, Camp-Grün-Satin, Elfenbein-Satin

Gloss Almond, Gloss Burgundy, Gloss Cherry Red, Gloss Classic Grey, Gloss Field Green, Gloss Hunter Green, Gloss Ivory, Gloss Khaki, Leather Brown, Gloss Mandarin, Gloss Piston Grey, Gloss Purple, Gloss Regal Blue, Glass Smoke Grey, Gloss Sun Yellow, Gloss True Blue, Satin Adobe, Satin Almond, Satin Burgund, Satin Camp Green, Satin Ivory Finish: Glänzend, seidenmatt, flach

Glänzend, seidenmatt, flach Oberflächen: Metall, Holz, Keramik, Mauerwerk, Beton, Korbgeflecht, Glas und Putz

Metall, Holz, Keramik, Mauerwerk, Beton, Weide, Glas und Gips Größe: 12 Unzen

Advantages:

Erhältlich in 22 verschiedenen Farben

Gute Haftung

Guter Rostschutz

Farbe + Grundierung

Disadvantages:

Das Sprühbild ist etwas eng

Amazon

Metall ist optisch sehr attraktiv, und vielleicht lieben wir es deshalb, von Gold, Silber, Messing oder Kupfer umgeben zu sein. Die meisten dieser Metalle sind jedoch auch teuer, also wäre es das Nächstbeste, sie so zu lackieren, dass sie wie Metall aussehen, und hier glänzt die Metallic-Sprühfarbe der Krylon DIY-Serie!

Dieses spezielle Produkt ist in Kupferoptik erhältlich, und sobald Sie eine einzige Schicht auftragen und trocknen lassen, sieht jede Oberfläche aus, als wäre sie echtes Kupfer, sogar eine typische Plastikvase.

Diese Farbe dient jedoch hauptsächlich der Show, da sie nicht sehr haltbar ist und keinen der üblichen äußeren Gefahren wie Sonne, Wind, Regen und großen Temperaturschwankungen standhalten kann.

Wenn Sie jedoch vorhaben, diese Farbe zu verwenden, sollten Sie sie nur für Gegenstände verwenden, die im Innenbereich stehen. However, this doesn’t mean that this paint is limited, and that’s because it can stick to pretty much any surface, so there’s nothing in your house that you can’t give a metallic look.

For example, if you’re thinking about painting glass, wood, or plastic, you can go ahead and do it without worries of abrasion, chipping, and you don’t even have to apply multiple coats to do so either.

All in all, this is probably our only entry that is admittedly the least durable and made purely for decorative purposes. However, that doesn’t mean that it isn’t any good since let’s face it, we always paint things in a new color for the sake of aesthetics.

If you find the sheen of metal to be attractive, go ahead and visit the Krylon DIY Series Metallic Spray Paint’s Amazon page, see what others think about it, then get yourself a few cans and to a total makeover around the house.

Specifications:

Type: Acrylic

Acrylic Colors: Copper

Copper Finish: Metallic

Metallic Surfaces: Metal, wood, wicker, plaster, paper mache, paper, glass, ceramic, and plastic

Metal, wood, wicker, plaster, paper mache, paper, glass, ceramic, and plastic Size: 12 ounces

Advantages:

Beautiful metallic finish

Only available in one color

Ideal for indoor redecoration

Works on all kinds of surfaces

Disadvantages:

Indoor use only

Amazon

Where Can I Buy Spray Paints for Metal Surfaces?

When starting out a new DIY project, it’s easy as a non-professional to maybe get the measurements or the materials wrong, and that’s when a solid return policy will really come in handy, especially when there’s not too much money to go around.

Because of that, the best place to look for when browsing for spray paints is, in our opinion, Amazon. Besides their worry-free return policy, you have the chance to see exactly what other users think of the products, which are the best, and which to avoid entirely.

In fact, some users go the extra mile of writing mini-reviews regarding their experience while using certain products, sometimes even providing real-life photos of the product, and even videos.

Best Spray Paints for Metal Surfaces: Closing Thoughts

We like our things to be durable and practical, but we have to admit that we like them to be great to look at as well, and while metal itself is all shiny, sometimes a coat or ruby red or emerald-green looks a whole lot better, making a can of spray paint a must-have in any DIY crafter’s toolbox.

Not only that, but painting can get messy, so if you don’t want to repaint something too often, you need to make sure that the spray paint you’re using is also of good quality, and well-suited for what your needs are.

All in all, the products on our list were all chosen because they were very good in particular scenarios, while still being affordable.

To learn more about common crafting materials that any metallurgist should have, leave us your suggestion in the comments section below and we’ll be sure to create in-depth product lists like the one above as soon as possible.

How to Prep a Bicycle Frame for Painting

How to Prep a Bicycle Frame for Painting
How to Prep a Bicycle Frame for Painting


See some more details on the topic frame builders smoothing putty here:

Spray.Bike Frame Builder’s Smoothing Putty – 400ml

This thick cover-all putty is perfect for tatty frames. It can be used to cover minor blemishes including scratches, rust damage and stickers.

+ View More Here

Source: framebuildersupply.com

Date Published: 2/5/2021

View: 9550

Frame Builder’s Smoothing Putty – 400ml – Custom-Ebike

Make it smoooth. This thick cover-all putty is perfect for tatty frames. Covers minor blemishes including scratches, rust damage and stickers. Product color: …

+ View Here

Source: custom-ebike.com

Date Published: 11/10/2022

View: 7974

SPRAY.BIKE “Frame Builders Smoothing Putty'” 400ml Can

Thick cover-all putty for tatty frames Covers minor blemishes including scratches, rust damage and stickers Easily sanded down A clearcoat of traditional …

+ Read More

Source: bikepunkshop.com

Date Published: 1/20/2021

View: 4428

Leeli Cycles – The Frame Builder’s Structural Putty is for…

… Smoothing Putty, if required. The Frame Builder’s Structural Putty can also be used to create shaping. … Spray.Bike Frame Builder’s Smoothing Putty.

+ Read More Here

Source: www.facebook.com

Date Published: 3/24/2022

View: 5756

Frame Builder’s Smoothing Putty – 400ml – Pinterest

01.01.2021 – This thick cover-all putty is perfect for tatty frames. It can be used to cover minor … Frame Builder’s Smoothing Putty – 400ml – Spray.

+ View More Here

Source: in.pinterest.com

Date Published: 2/11/2022

View: 8899

Frame Builder’s Smoothing Putty – 400ml

This thick top compound is perfect for dingy frames. It can be used to cover minor blemishes such as scratches, rust damage and stickers. Hold the can at least 20cm from the surface when spraying. It is not necessary to spray the entire frame, only the damaged areas. The idea is that the putty will serve as a filler.

After drying (2 hours), the filler can be lightly sanded and repeated if necessary. to smooth the damaged areas. The idea is that the putty will serve as a filler. Therefore, you may need to apply and sand down a few times to build up the recessed areas.

The putty should not be used as a primer. Note: When using Frame Builder’s Cold Zinc or Metal Primer, prime first and then apply the putty.

Spray.Bike Frame Builder’s Smoothing Putty – 400ml

This thick top compound is perfect for dingy frames. Covers minor blemishes such as scratches, rust damage and stickers.

Color of product: grey

Spray Distance: at least 8 inches

Ideal for steel, aluminum and even carbon parts

Recommended minimum coating: one

Can be sanded off easily

Drying time 2 hours between coats / before painting

Requires no heat treatment after application

Please note:

This product can only be shipped from this website to a US address.

Elsewhere? Click here.

Bicycle Frame Refinishing

Reports of the demise of this site are grossly exaggerated! We at sheldonbrown.com thank Harris Cyclery for their many years of support. Harris Cyclery is closed but we’re moving on. Keep visiting the site for new and updated articles and news about possible new affiliations.

options in post-processing

Paint is chipped, scratched and worn away. Paint defects lead to corrosion, which can weaken a frame. If a frame is reworked before it is seriously damaged, you can still use it for many years. How much work does it make sense to do yourself? With a steel frame, there are several good answers, depending on the time available, your workspace, and how important the frame’s appearance is to you. With non-steel frames, the options are more limited, but I’ll describe them as well. Professional bike frame builders and repair shops perform fancy, multi-colored paint jobs and complete restorations, even reproducing original decals, stripes and chrome. If you’re happy with a more streamlined appearance, an industrial paint shop or body shop can do a great job at a lower cost. I will also describe a do-it-yourself varnish that results in an ugly but very durable finish. But — 90% of the repair work is in the preparation. On a bike frame, much of this work can be done using ordinary bike tools and other simple tools and consumables, although the final preparation for painting is best left to a professional. Once the prep is complete, you can have the frame professionally refinished or give it that ugly finish I mentioned. The main example here is a homemade steel tandem frame made from scrap frames. (I described the construction of this frame in another article.)

Surface preparation

The photo on the left shows the tandem frame before I prepared it for repainting. It still carried most of the original paint, although I had stripped some areas of paint before soldering. The frame was in storage for a few years before I got around to refinishing it and there were some rust spots on the bare metal areas. The first step in preparation is to strip a frame of all components – already done for that frame before I soldered it together. Most components come off easily. Crankset, bottom bracket and headset or a stuck seat post present the biggest challenges. Articles on this page describe how to deal with them: Cranks without a cotter pin

One-piece cranks

Cup and cone bottom bracket

cartridge bottom bracket

Headset

Seatpost Keep small parts organized for easier replacement. It’s a good idea to line up the nuts, bolts, and washers of each component on a spare cable or spoke. Any modification that involves soldering or welding must be done prior to final preparation for post-processing. Now is also a good time if you’re looking to reposition the dropouts – but first check that the frame is sound – no cracks or serious dents and tolerable rust. Steel frame tubes can be replaced — worth it for a collector’s item — job for a professional frame builder. Three degrees of rust are more or less light surface rust, moderate pitting, and rust severe enough to require frame repair. Some perforated rust is tolerable in less stressed areas of the frame. Rust is common around the bottom bracket and chainstay area or anywhere there is damage to the paint – including from sweat on the top of the top tube if a bike has been used on an indoor trainer. Also check the pipes for rust. Interior rust is insidious rust. Water can enter through the open top of a stocktube seatpost or through a vent hole. If the frame doesn’t have a drain hole under the bottom bracket, drill one. This will help prevent future internal rust. The down tube, seat tube, and chainstays should all communicate with the bottom bracket shell to drain through this drain hole. If possible, there should be no pockets in which water can collect. An advanced case of internal rust – my old Raleigh Twenty Folder frame.

Salt water got in through a ventilation hole (blue arrow) and couldn’t get out

because paint clogged the bottom vent hole (my fault!).

The pipe rusted from the inside and burst (red arrow).

Priming under the paint prevents rust in small scratches (green arrows).

The hinge rusted where large areas of paint were scraped off (orange arrow). Lightly sand the rust spots with fine sandpaper – #320 grit or finer. This shows where there is deeper rust. Also peel off decals. A paint scraper or single-edged razor blade will take care of them quickly. Follow the sanding with a solution of phosphoric acid — the mild acid that gives Coca-Cola its flavor. In fact, Coca-Cola was sometimes used to clean metals. (I don’t recommend Coca-Cola for rust removal: it leaves a sticky residue and the acid concentration is low.) Phosphoric acid eats rust but not steel, and you can soak a rusted portion of a frame until all the rust is gone . Avoid getting phosphoric acid solution in your eyes; rubber gloves are also advisable – but short-term contact is harmless. You just need to wash with soap and water. The photo on the right shows two phosphoric acid products. Pink and tacky, Loctite Naval Jelly will stick to surfaces in any orientation. Better hardware stores carry this product. Purple Power Rust Remover or other aqueous phosphoric acid treatment is typically used as a wash for metal panels in body shops. You can brush this on bare metal parts of the frame to remove light surface rust and prevent further rusting, or you can soak parts of the frame in a diluted solution to remove deeper rust. A useful way to soak is to soak a rag in the solution and wrap it around a frame tube. [Note: As of 2019, Purple Power De-Roster appears to no longer be sold, but another company, Klean-Strip, offers a similar product. See the link at the bottom of this article.] Phosphoric acid can slowly eat away at brass, so use caution when using it on soldered joints. Usually the rust is gone before the solder joint is significantly damaged. The aim is to remove rust down to the bare metal. You should only see gray rust, not brown or orange. The frame may have rust spots. If they’re not too deep and not where they weaken the frame, good enough. They can be filled before painting. Another way to remove rust is electrolysis, which involves connecting the rusted part and another iron or steel object to the two terminals of a battery charger and submerging them in water. The liquid electrolyte is simple – baking soda or washing soda in water. To get a whole frame into the electrolyte solution, you can lay a sheet of polythene plastic on the floor in a rectangular frame, or use a plastic children’s paddling pool (but keep children away! Electrolysis works faster than phosphoric acid and is more convenient when there is pitting. Links at the bottom of this article lead to web pages with instructions. Reading the last paragraph on any of these pages makes me think electrolysis is safe for soldering, although I’m not sure. The phosphoric acid solution or electrolyte can washed off with clear water. If the frame is dried quickly, very little rust will occur. If a frame needs to be painted, chromed areas are likely to show some pinholes and chips, with rust spots showing through. Using padded aluminum foil will avoid scratches chromed parts – if that matters – but usually chrome is repainted rt or redone in a fancy refinishing job.Phosphoric acid will erode a scarred chromed surface, but you can still use phosphoric acid ay if you are going to be painting over the chrome. This will remove the rust underneath the chrome. The next step, blasting, removes loose chrome and roughens the surface of the chrome part to allow the paint to adhere. I recommend derusting before blasting, as blasting will not remove rust to the bottom of the deepest pits. Blast cleaning will remove most of the de-rusting fluid residue. Both Naval Jelly and Purple Power leave a residue even when washed off with water.

Removing paint and residue

We’re repairing a steel frame here. But let’s talk about carbon fiber, aluminum and titanium for a moment. Chemical paint strippers and abrasives do serious damage to a carbon fiber frame, so it’s best to leave the original paintwork in place and roughen it up slightly to allow a new paint job to adhere. Repairing a carbon fiber frame is best left to professionals from start to finish. In some cases, a repair is also possible by replacing damaged layers of carbon fiber fabric – also a job for professionals. On this page, Damon Rinard describes how he repaired a carbon fiber frame that he had already built. Aluminum is much softer than steel, so chemical paint stripping is the preferred method for an aluminum frame. Abrasive particles have been reported to embed themselves in aluminum and affect the finish. Aluminum also requires special preparation and priming. With aluminum, it’s best to send the frame to a shop that specializes in removing paint from aluminum, most often using chemicals. Titanium is often left untreated as it does not rust. Then painting is not an issue. Titanium is softer than steel, and like aluminum, any paint should be removed with a chemical stripper. Chemical strippers are highly toxic. Chemical paint stripping should preferably be carried out in a professional workshop environment with exhaust air filtration. Once the surface has softened, it can be removed with water, solvents or a mild abrasive such as steel wool or a Scotchbrite™ pad. It is common practice to remove paint from a steel frame with abrasive cleaners. Sandblasting is the generic term for this job, but sand easily erodes steel pipe. Glass bead blasting is much gentler. In larger cities there are shops that do this work. Before you take a frame to a shop—unless it’s a shop with experience working on bike frames—you need to protect surfaces that you don’t want to be rubbed or where you don’t want particles to get stuck. Partially thread old bottom bracket shells into the bottom bracket and wrap them in duct tape, install an old headset and block the vent holes with toothpicks. Adhesive tape is tough enough to withstand blasts and keep abrasive particles out of the frame. Bottom bracket taped (and already blasted) for blasting:

Duct tape wrapped around the old bottom bracket shell. In addition, you or the workshop must remove oil, grease and derusting residues before blasting. Blasting may not completely eliminate these and can drive them into pores in the metal. Deruster can be washed off with water. (The phosphoric acid leaves an anti-rust layer that will withstand a rinse). A solvent cleaner works for grease and oil. If the frame has been waxed, a specialty cleaner such as PPG DX330 Wax and Grease Remover, Sherwin Williams R7K156 Solvent Cleaner, or DuPont 3919S Prep-Sol is recommended as blasting can leave wax residue in the pores of the finish. I took the tandem frame to a local metal shop, Fortune Metal Finishing. in Needham, Massachusetts. In the photo below, Sean from Fortune Metal Finishing holds the tandem frame after blasting. Now it’s free of color. Sean holds the frame with his bare hand. Oils from his skin and other possible contaminants must be cleaned again with solvents before painting. A professional painter will do this, or you can do it again with a solvent cleaner.

odors and toxicity

Solvent cleaners, and especially grease and wax removers, are toxic and smelly. This is one of the reasons why you should leave the painting to professionals after derusting. Most household paints are now water-based. Thanks to advances in chemistry, their durability is acceptable – but they are not suitable for painting bicycle frames. Any solvent based paint will be smelly and more or less unhealthy. Some are worse than others. Consider this carefully when deciding whether to solvent clean and paint the frame yourself and where to do your work. Your smell tolerance is likely greater than that of your spouse, roommates, or landlord. After all, you get something from your work: a reconditioned bike. You only get the smells!

primer and topcoat

Any finish for steel must begin with an anti-rust primer. This works like an electric battery, but on a microscopic scale. A material is eroded when an electric current flows between it and the other material when they are wet. If the two materials are zinc and steel, the zinc will eat away and protect the steel. Primers contain zinc, which is slowly being eaten away. “Acid Etch” primer is now popular for use on auto body panels and adheres particularly well to steel, but it is not suitable on its own under some paints. If used, this should be followed by the primer specially formulated for that colour. A chip on the chainstay of my fixie. The center of the chip is bare metal

and the gray area around it is primer that kept it from rusting. . The top coat or coats prevent moisture penetration as much as possible – but a top coat alone will not prevent rust. Moisture gets in somehow, through a crack, scratch, or chip, or by absorption, and without the primer, rust will spread beneath the paint. A beautiful paint job doesn’t last forever – but with the right preparation and priming under the top coat(s) it should last for many years.

Painting, spraying or powder coating?

The three common methods of applying paint to a bike frame are brushing, spraying or powder coating. Think about how much you are willing to spend, how important the look of the frame is to you, and how much work you will be doing yourself. Paintable or sprayable surfaces are of three general types: water-based, like most common paints;

Paints that apply in relatively thick layers, or

Varnishes that use a highly volatile (rapidly evaporating and toxic) solvent and dry quickly. Paints were common on cars up until the 1960s, but are no longer widely used. Enamel is more durable. Whatever you do, you need to cover up areas where you don’t want the paint to go. The same masking you used for blasting will also work for painting, except if you want to bake the finish. Then the masking must be heat resistant. Brush You can brush paint. Brushing is easier, less messy, and less hazardous to health than spraying, but generally doesn’t produce great-looking results. Sometimes that’s not what you want anyway. This is Sheldon’s Robin Hood bike. His explanation: “Whenever I was around someone using paint, I would borrow the brush and dab a few dabs on it to deter thieves. I painted everything on it except the saddle.” More about this bike… Most paints use a petroleum based solvent and dry by evaporation, taking weeks to fully cure. Additional hardening occurs through chemical crosslinking, which builds up larger molecules. Baking can greatly speed up drying and curing, but is not a practical choice for DIY jobs. Marine epoxy paint – primer and top coat – can be purchased at marine supply stores. It largely avoids the drying problem because it’s two components that you mix together like epoxy glue. Most curing occurs within a few hours through a chemical reaction. A marine epoxy enamel coating is thick – so only a few coats are required – and very durable. If you brush it up it can get really ugly as it tends to sag and drip. However, ugliness is an advantage where it deters thieves. Since you can apply the coating yourself, the cost is low. Despite its low solvent content, marine epoxy enamel stinks and is so toxic that you should mix and apply it outdoors or in a detached shed or garage. About 30 years ago I refinished three frames with brushed on marine epoxy. The paint sagged and dripped, and I received a lot of criticism from friends for my “drizzle-painted” frames. Two of these frames are still in use, with no post-processing. The third frame was the Raleigh Twenty, which I ride on salted roads through Boston winters. After about 20 years I re-done the marine epoxy after a frame repair. After another 10 years I replaced the frame as it had rusted through from the inside as I showed earlier in this article. Here is my fixie, still ugly and rust free, more than 30 years after receiving the marine epoxy treatment. Spraying Spraying followed by air drying or baking is the traditional way of painting a bike frame. It can be anything from “rattle can” work to auto body work to very fancy artistic fades from a specialist bike refinish shop. Spraying inevitably creates overspray. Droplets of liquid paint are carried in the air. These stink and are unhealthy. There are even horror stories of workers repeatedly spray-painting the insides of their lungs until they could no longer breathe properly and had to resort to an oxygen tank. For occasional, small jobs with the rattle can, you can probably get away with spraying outdoors when the wind blows away from you, but if you use spray paint more than occasionally, you should wear a face mask — preferably not just a plain fiber face mask, but a professional respirator with dust and mist filters, activated carbon elements and a one-way exhaust valve. The mask must fit snugly against the face so that all intake air can pass through the filters. Safety goggles or goggles are also a good idea: you don’t want to get any spray on your eyes or glasses. Professional painters use a ventilated spray booth with exhaust filtration, which also minimizes air pollution. Spray paint followed by baking is the traditional treatment for everything from new cars to refrigerators to bike frames. A good spray painted finish requires multiple coats – first the anti-rust primer, then coats of paint and often a coat of clear coat to add shine. A body shop or professional bike frame shop can spray more efficiently than you. The color of choice for bicycle frames is Dupont Imron Enamel. Like this frame, for example, which Sheldon built himself – but he didn’t paint it himself like Robin Hood. Spraying two-part marine epoxy enamel is impractical for do-it-yourself jobs because it requires special equipment and careful cleaning to avoid clogging. Since sprayed epoxy droplets harden in the lungs, this poses a high health risk. I suppose you could take your frame to a boat builder to have it spray painted with marine grade epoxy for a better look and to avoid the mess and exposure to chemicals, but I haven’t researched this myself. Powder Coating Powder coating has emerged in the last few decades and uses an electrostatic charge – like that which makes a cat’s hair stand on end when you pet it – to attract particles of a powder to the object to be painted. The powder has the consistency of flour. The powder is sprayed on. The object to be sprayed in the photo is part of a machine that processes silicon chips used in integrated circuits. Oven baking melts the powder into a smooth coating. In the photo below, Joe of Coating Application Technologies in Woburn, Massachusetts, USA, stands in the company’s walk-in oven. He checked a thermometer on the side of the oven before opening the doors and stepping inside. It was only 65 degrees Celsius. During use, the temperature is 121 degrees Celsius (250 degrees Fahrenheit). In these conditions he would have avoided going inside. If you’re having a tandem bike frame powder coated, you need to make sure the oven is big enough. This is. Powder coating uses no solvents or leaves liquid overspray, making it relatively environmentally friendly and clean. It creates a strong, smooth and durable coating. A “metallic” (glittering) coating is possible. Bicycle fork with metallic (glittering) powder coating.

The steerer tube and brake hubs were previously masked

Applying the powder. Due to the special equipment, powder coating is only practical in a professional environment. Nevertheless, it is economical compared to other professional coating processes. Only two or three shifts are needed to complete a job. The first coat is an anti-rust primer. Due to baking, powder coating is not suitable for frames or forks that are partially or fully carbon fiber or have chemically bonded parts. The frame or fork must be electrically conductive – metal – but heat-resistant putty can hide rust pits, ugly welds and the like. Covering needs to be heat resistant – no duct tape or masking tape – and it’s important to remove or block any oil and grease residue inside a bike frame where it could liquify and spill out during baking, spoiling the finish. A good powder coating shop knows how to address these issues. Powder coating can be thermoplastic: it will melt again when reheated, or more thermosetting: it will permanently set when baked. Thermoplastic powder coating is particularly easy to touch up. Powder can be applied only to the area that needs touching up and then heated locally. The new powder blends seamlessly into the environment. It is possible to re-colour a powder-coated item by lightly sanding and then spraying on a solvent-based paint that dries at room temperature. Changing the color with an additional powder paint only makes sense after removing the original paint, as this would melt and mix with the new paint. Marbled surfaces might be possible if you take advantage of this, but I’ll leave the experimentation to someone else. I had the tandem frame powder coated. This is how it looked when it was finished. Well done!

Internal rust protection

Avoiding internal rust is a good first step when assembling a bike. Old Raleigh three-speed frames with the matte black finish had baked enamel inside and out, but few modern frames have internal protection against rust. There is a commercial product designed to prevent rusting in bicycle frames: J.P. Weigle’s Frame Saver. You spray it into the bike’s frame tubes, where it partially hardens and forms a sticky protective layer. A thin hose that attaches to the spray nozzle allows you to work around corners and spray into vent holes, water bottle bosses and the like. I had some problems with Frame Saver. I couldn’t figure out how to get to the inside of all the tubes on some frames. Also, the coating left by Frame Saver is so slippery that I had to tighten the seatpost clamp on one of my bikes extra tight or the seatpost would slide down. But if you’ve used Frame Saver, you probably won’t have a stuck seatpost problem. Another product that is often used for rust protection in bicycle frames is Boeshield T9. This is advertised as a protective agent, but also as a lubricant. It is sometimes used for bicycle chains. Boeshield T9 produces a waxy coating that can be removed with a solvent if required. In a bicycle frame, a Boeshield T9 coating is likely to last a few years, although it is not as tough as Frame Saver. Avoid putting any of these products on surfaces that require threadlocking compound—especially bottom bracket threads, which are difficult to clean. You can seal these with tape and leave them in place until the frame protection fluid stops leaking out. If you turn the frame again and again, the liquid is distributed in the tubes. If the frame is ever re-baked T9 will likely liquify and Frame Saver may release vapor – so it would probably be a good idea to let the frame bake before applying the finish to eliminate this problem before baking again. T9 will not catch fire at the temperatures used for baking enamel or powder coating! The seatstays and fork blades usually have ventilation holes that prevented heat-expanded air from being blown out of the soldering or welding points when the bike was built. Bike guru Jobst Brandt recommends closing them to keep water out. Good idea – but leave a drain hole under the bottom bracket. There is a link to Brandt’s advice at the bottom of this article. He objects to the anti-rust coating on the inside of the frame, but I disagree.

reassembly

Now you’re back to reinstalling components on the bike. The procedures are described in other articles on this site. You must first check if the paint is clogging any of the threads or bearing rings. If they were well masked, that didn’t happen, but it can happen. These problems can usually be corrected with a scraper (e.g. for the ends of the bottom bracket shell) or by running a bolt through a bolt hole. If the threads are badly clogged, you can grind down the end of the screw to make it work like a tap. Avoid filing away metal, especially on the headset bearing seats.

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Articles by Sheldon Brown and others

Reports of the demise of this site have been greatly exaggerated! We at sheldonbrown.com thank Harris Cyclery for their many years of support. Harris Cyclery is closed but we’re moving on. Keep visiting the site for new and updated articles and news about possible new affiliations.

Copyright © 2013 John Allen

Spray.Bike Frame Builder’s Smoothing Putty

Spray.Bike’s Frame Builder’s Smoothing Putty – covers stains, scratches and rust

Specifications:

Features:

Application:

CLP regulation label:

Hazardous ingredients:

Hazard warnings:

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400ml:

Contents:

Frame Builder’s Smoothing Putty from Spray.Bike is a convenient sprayable putty that perfectly coats surfaces. It is ideal for worn or slightly damaged steel, aluminum or carbon bicycle frames. Spray bike acrylic paint in aerosol can Frame, fork and all parts to be painted – easy to sand off – ideal for steel, aluminum and carbon – no re-sanding heat treatment required – Spray.Bike only use on clean, dry surfaces – wear gloves, protective clothing and respirator – always use outdoors – spray can approx. 3 minutes before use – take 2-3 test sprays before use – only spray with a spray can in a vertical position (at least 20 cm spray distance) – always keep the spray can in motion during the spraying process – before application allow to dry another coat (approx. 2 hours) Optimum ambient temperature when spraying: 20-25°C. Do not use Spray.Bike when the outside temperature is below 10°C, above 35°C or when the relative humidity is above 75%. Protect can well from sunlight and ambient temperatures above 50°C/122°F.DangerAcetone, Cylene, 2-Methoxy-1-methylethyl acetateH222 Extremely flammable aerosol.H229 Pressurized container: may burst if heated.H315 Causes skin irritation. H319 Causes serious eye irritation.H336 May cause drowsiness or dizziness.P101 If medical advice is needed, have product container or label at hand.P102 Keep out of reach of children.P210 Keep away from heat, hot surfaces, sparks, open flames and other ignition sources. No smoking.P211 Do not spray on an open flame or other ignition source.P251 Do not pierce or burn, even after handling.P280 Wear protective gloves/protective clothing/eye protection/face protection.P410+P412 Protect from sunlight. Do not expose to temperatures above 50°C / 122°F. P501 Dispose of contents/container in accordance with local/regional/national/international regulations. Cosmos Lac AE1 Pindou Street, Kallithea 17672, Athens. GreecePhone: +30 2109570222Fax: +30 [email protected]://www.cosmoslac.com400ml Aerosol – 1 x Spray.Bike Frame Builder’s Smoothing Putty

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