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Motorcycle shops and dealers costs vary greatly depending upon where you live geographically but from the feedback we hear from our customers is they were quoted as low as $150 and as high as $400 to have a shop fully remove the forks and replace the fork seals.Replacing your fork seals is an easy enough job if you know a few tricks. The first step to any DIY job is to do a little research and get all the parts you’ll need for the job. You’ll at least need the new seals and fork oil but should also consider wipers, bushings and any seals or o-rings for the caps.How long should this take on average? If you have the right tools, and the parts are in good condition, it should take no more than 2 hours. Patience is the key to have a clean fork tube before reinstallation.
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Cost to Replace Fork Seals Yourself.
| Total Parts Cost (No Tools) | $35 – $75 |
|---|---|
| Total Parts Cost (With Tools) | $100 – $200 |
Table of Contents
How much does it cost to replace front fork seals?
…
Cost to Replace Fork Seals Yourself.
| Total Parts Cost (No Tools) | $35 – $75 |
|---|---|
| Total Parts Cost (With Tools) | $100 – $200 |
Are fork seals hard to replace?
Replacing your fork seals is an easy enough job if you know a few tricks. The first step to any DIY job is to do a little research and get all the parts you’ll need for the job. You’ll at least need the new seals and fork oil but should also consider wipers, bushings and any seals or o-rings for the caps.
How long does it take to replace a fork seal?
How long should this take on average? If you have the right tools, and the parts are in good condition, it should take no more than 2 hours. Patience is the key to have a clean fork tube before reinstallation.
What happens if you don’t replace fork seals?
A bad fork seal could leak oil onto your brake calipers, resulting in trouble decelerating and stopping the bike. That, plus poor shock absorption and an unbalanced ride makes a leaky fork seal dangerous to ride on.
Is Fork Seal Replacement That Hard?
You should not ride with a bad fork seal for many reasons, safety being paramount. A bad fork seal can leak oil onto your calipers, which can cause problems braking and stopping the bike. This, along with poor shock absorption and unbalanced handling, makes riding with a leaking fork seal dangerous.
It looks like your bike needs a few repairs. So read on to learn what the fork seal really does, why it can become damaged, and why a damaged seal can be dangerous. Then we will talk about some possible solutions to fix a bad fork seal.
The purpose of the fork seal
To understand why a working fork seal is so important, you need to know what a fork seal is supposed to do.
Your bike’s “forks” are the two large tubes that attach to the front wheel of your bike. They are designed to help you actually steer your bike, control your front brakes to slow down, and absorb shock from bumps and jumps as you ride.
Inside these tubes are springs and oil.
The oil in this fork tube is designed to dampen the speed of compression and rebound of the fork so that you always work at maximum power. This maintains your bike’s ability to absorb shock as evenly as possible.
Then there is the actual fork seal.
This is a small circular ring that attaches to the bottom of the fork tube to keep the oil in the tube while you ride. Without this properly secured fork seal, the oil from your fork will leak into the fork tube and possibly onto your brake rotor and pads.
Causes of fork seal damage
A bad fork seal can be a nightmare for both beginners and advanced riders. Now you’re probably wondering what actually causes this type of damage? Here’s a look at some common culprits when it comes to a bad fork seal.
Physical Damage: One of the rarest causes of a bad fork seal is physical damage to the seal. This can be caused by an accident with your bike, sharp stones catching on the seal and scratching/tearing it, or a cut in the fork tube tearing the seal.
Dirt or debris: In most cases, a bad fork seal isn’t really that bad. There is simply dirt trapped next to the fork seal, preventing that gap from closing completely. This can lead to oil leaks and a ruined suspension.
Age: If you’re lucky, your damaged or bad fork seal comes from years of consistent use. Many fork seals last anywhere from 20 to 80 hours before eventually falling apart and needing to be replaced.
The good news is that a bad fork seal isn’t the be-all and end-all of your bike. In most cases, all you have to do is drive to the repair shop to have them fixed.
Just remember, this is the type of repair you’ll want to do sooner rather than later.
The dangers of driving with a bad fork seal
Your bike’s fork seals are probably some of the smallest parts that make your bike work. However, they can also wreak the most havoc when it comes to safety, time and your wallet. So let’s discuss why it’s not a good idea to ride with a bad fork seal.
Ruined brakes
The longer your fork seals are leaking, the more oil will drip onto the bottom of your front wheel. Fork oil will also start leaking onto your front brake pads and calipers.
As you may be able to tell, this can be extremely dangerous.
If your brakes are over-lubed, their ability to stop your front wheel when you tighten your brakes is virtually non-existent. You will have trouble slowing down and stopping.
Instead of being able to slow down before a turn or corner, approach it at full speed. You know after years on the bike that if you turn too fast, you’re likely to be thrown off or hit some other obstacle.
If you can’t stop in a crowded area of the trail, you could hit a tree or another rider head-on.
bad balance
In some cases, just one of your front fork seals will go bad. So instead of oil leaking equally from both sides, you’re primarily losing that oil from the left fork or from the right fork.
That might sound good at first because it means fewer repairs.
The problem, however, is that the shock absorption is much greater on one side of your bike than the other. So you can’t prepare for how your bike will handle potholes, bumps or rocks on the trail.
This poor balance in your front wheel will also make handling and steering more difficult than usual. Don’t be surprised if you get thrown off your bike on a normally easy trail. This should be a good indicator that something needs fixing.
Less shock absorption
Perhaps the most dangerous aspect of a bad fork seal is poor shock absorption. Now you know what holes and bumps your bike can survive without damaging your bike or throwing you off balance in the process.
With little or no oil in one of your fork tubes, the spring can absorb next to nothing on just one side. On the other hand, your bike can absorb too much.
The result can be an extremely springy ride that will make you feel every bump in the trail and even injure you coming off a jump. Your bike needs shock absorption to recover from bumps and jump landings and prevent damage.
How to fix a bad fork seal
In most cases, your fork seal will lose oil due to dirt buildup.
To find out if this is the problem you are facing, examine your fork seal for signs of obvious damage. Your fork seal should not show any dents, scratches or holes.
The Seal Doctor will be your best friend when the problem is actually just dirt caught in the seal.
Here is a step-by-step guide on how to use the Seal Doctor.
Lower the dust seal off the tube (note: some oil may leak out, but that’s to be expected at this point in the process). Simply snap the Seal Doctor around the pipe. Slide the Seal Doctor up so the pointed area is under the tube where your dust seal would normally sit. Twist the Seal Doctor around the tube to scrape off any remaining dirt. Detach the Seal Doctor, wipe off excess oil and cap the dust seal.
This is the simplest solution and saves you from buying a brand new fork seal and disassembling your entire bike. Check out this video that will show you exactly how this product works!
Conclusion
Riding with a blown fork seal is extremely dangerous not only for you, but for other riders as well. You may also need to replace parts that have been damaged by leaking or missing oil.
Luckily, it’s not too difficult to fix a bad fork seal if the problem is just a dirt build-up. For less than $25, you can invest in a Seal Doctor and restore your fork seals to working condition.
If there is noticeable damage to your fork seal that cannot be repaired by Seal Doctor, it is best to spend a little money and have it repaired in the workshop.
What causes fork seals to leak?
Fork seals leak from normal wear and tear, age, and debris getting into the seals. Imperfections and nicks in the chrome can also make your fork seals leak. However, the majority of the time your fork seals are leaking it’s simply because debris is caught in the seal holding it open and allowing fork oil to sneak by.
Is Fork Seal Replacement That Hard?
Fork seals leak from normal wear and tear, age and dirt getting into the seals. Imperfections and nicks in the chrome can also cause your fork seals to leak. However, most of the time when your fork seals are leaking, it is simply because dirt is getting caught in the seal holding it open and allowing fork oil to sneak past.
When you first notice the leak is the best time to take immediate action. While you might be tempted to ignore it for now so you can keep racing, you know what will happen if you ignore it. If you’re pulling your hair out wondering why your fork seals keep leaking, read on to uncover the problems and fix them so you can get back racing fast.
How do fork seals work?
A modern motorcycle suspension is simply amazing. The travel they have and the internal components that control the rate of compression and rebound are all the result of over 100 years of evolution in motorcycle design.
One reason today’s suspension is so good is the use of oil as the rate controlling medium in the suspension. The challenge, however, is keeping the oil where it belongs while allowing the suspension to cycle up and down thousands upon thousands of times. The only component that holds the oil, even under high pressure, during rapid compression is a tiny rubber “lip” called the oil seal.
To cut a long story short, this tiny “lip” sits between the inner and outer fork tubes. As you can imagine, the connection between the fork inner tube and the oil seal must be perfect so that the oil does not leak. When the oil seal gets old or hard, it no longer prevents the oil from leaking out. If something gets stuck between the seal and the fork tube as described above, oil can leak out.
First, what to look for
As mentioned above, watch out for oil dripping off the fork seal. Sometimes the oil is hard to see, but don’t worry, the oil will attract dirt and soon you’ll see a dirty mess around your fork seal (conventional forks) or at the bottom of your fork tube near your front axle (upside down). forks like on modern motocross bikes). Basically, oil dripping down the front shaft should be your first clue that your fork seals are leaking.
Another obvious clue is when there is a puddle of oil under your fork, or your suspension just feels like an uncontrolled and springy spring. If enough oil comes out, your bike will become unsafe.
What makes seals leak anyway?
Seals leak through normal wear and tear
Seals are put under a lot of stress with normal use, and even more if they are ridden harder than normal. When racing dirt bikes or riding off-road dirt trails, your seals work even better to keep dirt and other debris out. Because they have a hard life, you should service your fork oil seals or change your oil seals after 40 hours of riding. Most people just wait for them to leak to service or replace them, but serious racers should be prepared and never let a leaking fork seal ruin a race day or their racing results.
Even if you rarely ride your bike, you should change the oil and seals every two years because idle time dries out your fork seals and causes leaks.
Dirt and other deposits can get into the seals
As previously mentioned, dirt, grit, and other debris get between the seal and the inner fork tube, creating an incomplete seal. If so, you need to clean them up according to the methods detailed in the next section.
Defects in the fork inner tube can cause leaks
When riding, stones and other foreign objects inevitably fly up and dent the hose or cause scratches or chips on the fork. When this happens, it will cause your seals to leak before they wear out. You’ll need to check the fork from time to time to make sure this doesn’t happen.
If this is the case you can use 400 grit sandpaper to buff them, a side to side motion rather than an up and down motion is better, but a “cross hatch” pattern similar to honing is best a cylinder. If your fork tube was faulty, chances are the fork seal was damaged as well.
You may need to fix the imperfection and replace your fork seal to completely fix the leak. If you only replace the fork seal, the imperfection in the fork tube will simply damage the new fork seal as well.
Note, however, that not all chips or dents can be 100% polished out. If this is happening to your bike, you should consider re-chroming it. Suspension companies like SGB Racing can recoat your fork tube and even apply a higher performance coating to improve your suspension function.
Extended pressure by lashing straps
There’s enough stress on those bad fork seals already, and then when you use a mounting system that compresses the front forks in transit, you’re putting a constant source of stress on the fork seals. Check out Risk Racing Lock and Load Systems, they will undoubtedly extend the life of your fork seals, apart from making your life easier when transporting your bikes.
What can you do to repair fork seals?
Aside from replacing the seals, there are several things you can do to get your fork seals fixed and racing again before you know it. If you can’t do it yourself, consider taking your bike to a qualified bicycle mechanic who will do it for you. Replacing fork seals can cost anywhere from $100-$200 depending on how many parts need to be replaced.
Lift the dust cover and clean underneath
If you know what you’re doing, gently pry the dust seal apart with a flathead screwdriver, being careful not to scratch the fork or damage the seal. Use a lint-free cloth or cotton swab to remove any mud or dirt stuck under the lip before putting everything back together.
If that doesn’t fix the problem, remove the dust seal and wrap a piece of camera film or another flexible, thin object around the shaft, then push it up until you get under the lip. This method can remove any residue that a cotton swab might miss. Then reset everything.
The disadvantage of this method is that the debris that caused the leak is pushed into the suspension. The small valve in the suspension can’t handle dirt and therefore more damage can be caused if a simple leak is fixed in this way.
Use the Seal Doctor on the fork
Leaks occur almost everywhere at the worst times, e.g. B. when you are on the track or hitting the trails. Having the right tools to quickly fix a leaking fork seal can save the day. Risk Racing’s TheSeal Doctor is just the tool you need. This product received 5 stars out of 5 from all the top motocross magazines, proving that it is the best tool to fix leaking fork seals.
Just lower your dust seal and put the Seal Doctor on your fork tube, pop the tooth into the leaking seal and twist. The Seal Doctor’s design maintains the correct position and angle as you rotate around your fork tube. It effortlessly pulls the dirt out of the fork rather than pushing it deeper into the fork. The bottom of the Seal Doctor has a second tooth design to clean your dust seal.
The Seal Doctor also comes with a protective holster so it can be safely stored in your toolbox or hiking backpack so you always have the right tools for the job. There are other products on the market that attempt to do the same thing as the patented Seal Doctor, but none do it quite as well.
Replace fork seals
Fork seals should be replaced after 40 hours of riding, or two years if you don’t ride very often. Even if you clean the gaskets regularly, they will eventually wear out and leak no matter what you do to ensure a tight seal. If you don’t know how to do it, you might want to take it to your local bike mechanic or befriend a mechanically inclined moto buddy and learn exactly.
You need special tools such as B. Fork seal driver to do the job by yourself. These tools can be expensive and specific to your bike or suspension size. A trip to the dealer to fix this problem is also expensive. The cheapest and quickest way would be to start with the Risk Racing Seal Doctor.
Why do fork seals keep leaking?
They’ve done everything they can to fix the fork seals, but they’re still leaking. This can be very frustrating, but for your own safety, it’s important that you get it repaired properly.
The fork seals are not properly reassembled
If the fork seal is leaking immediately after replacing it with a new fork seal, the problem is likely due to improper installation of the new fork seal. The sharp edges on the fork tube can often cut through the sensitive seal during installation. An experienced mechanic will know the proper secrets for installing the fork seal over the sharp edges of the fork tube to avoid damaging the new fork seal.
Fork seals are not fully cleaned
If this doesn’t stop the leak, you might want to recheck the seals as they may not be completely clean. Even a small speck of dirt can cause the oil to leak out. Repeat the cleaning process until you are sure you have removed everything under the gaskets.
Once you’ve cleaned the seals, wipe all the dirt and bugs off the fork after each ride.
There are nicks in the chrome under the seal
Rocks and other debris can fly up and nick the chrome under the gasket, creating small dents that allow small amounts of oil to leak out. The best way to take care of this is to take a super fine piece of sandpaper to buff out the dents or nicks. However, some scratches may not be polished out. In this case you may need to re-chrome the fork tube.
Transport your bike differently
If you keep getting fork seal leaks after repair or replacement, consider how you will transport the bike and avoid using tie-down straps to transport your bike. The Lock-N-LoaderLock-N-Load Pro Moto Cargo Systems are the best way to transport your bike while reducing stress on your fork seals.
Consider the conditions you ride in or install additional protection
If you ride in sandy or muddy conditions, you are more prone to fork seal contamination. You can fit special neoprene fork seal covers to further protect contaminants from reaching your fork seals.
Conclusion
Fork seals are delicate things and require frequent maintenance to prevent leaks. If you follow the suggestions in this article and your fork seals are still leaking, you may need to replace the fork tube. But until you decide, take it to your bike mechanic for him or her to look at to find the cause of the leak.
Remember that the Seal Doctor device is the best tool on the market for servicing or repairing fork seal leaks. It removes the dirt from the fork to make the process quick and easy. They come in multiple sizes and work for all bikes, dirt and street.
Keeping your fork seals in tip-top shape means you can race the same bike for years to come.
How much does it cost to rebuild a fork?
Cost: $150 – $400
Motorcycle shops and dealers costs vary greatly depending upon where you live geographically but from the feedback we hear from our customers is they were quoted as low as $150 and as high as $400 to have a shop fully remove the forks and replace the fork seals.
Is Fork Seal Replacement That Hard?
Fork seal replacement cost for SHOPS
Cost: $150 – $400
Downtime: Up to 1-3 months
The cost of motorcycle shops and dealerships varies wildly depending on where you live geographically, but based on feedback from our customers they have ranged from $150 up to $400 for a shop to completely remove the forks and the fork seals replaced.
With labor and supply chain shortages, getting your motorcycle back on the road ready to ride can take up to 3 months at some stores.
DIY – Replace the fork seals yourself
Total cost: $75 – $250
Time to complete work: 3-6 hours of work
If you are relatively handy and up to the task of replacing your own fork seals, then this is what you would spend on both time and parts cost.
All prices depend on what type of motorcycle and fork you have.
Parts you will need:
Lot 2 – Fork Seals – $20 each. Lot 2 – Dust Seals – $10 each. Quantity 2 – 1 quart fork oil – $10 each.
Optional tools you may need:
Fork seal driver – $80 Fork spring compressor – $60
Time you need to invest:
If you’re relatively handy and have all the proper tools – 3 hours If you’re not relatively handy / organized – 6 hours
Fix leaking fork seals with Seal Mate
Cost: $5-$10
Repair time: 5 minutes
Learn more about Seal Mate here
If you’ve never heard of Seal Mate, it’s a tool designed to fix leaking fork seals in minutes and it’s so easy anyone can do it.
Seal Mate has helped over 200,000 riders worldwide fix their leaking fork seals so they can get back to doing what they love, which is RIDING!
It works on any brand of dirt bike or street bike.
Fork seals leak because dirt gets trapped between the oil seal and the fork upper tube.
Because of this, many new bikes or newly replaced fork seals can leak.
Seal Mate is a tool that removes dirt and debris from fork seals, allowing you to fix your leaking fork seals in minutes instead of hours or months like the above options for replacing your fork seals.
Seal Mate ships worldwide and orders usually ship within 24 hours.
It is also available in a variety of colors.
Click here to learn more about Seal Mate
How much does it cost to service a fork?
| RockShox Forks | Full Service |
|---|---|
| Lyric Coil ’10-15 | $150.00 |
| Lyric Dual Position ’12-15 | $150.00 |
| BoXXer Coil Forks ’10-Present | $150.00 |
| Domain Coil ’07-Present | $135.00 |
Is Fork Seal Replacement That Hard?
Ready to schedule maintenance, tuning, or repair appointments? Do you have a question about our services and the components we service?
Call our shop at 417.324.7901 or contact us at:
What tools are needed to change fork seals?
- 47mm ProX fork seal kit.
- Torque wrench (recommended from a reputable company for accuracy)
- Socket wrench (3/8 drive)
- 8mm socket or 8mm T-handle wrench.
- 10mm socket or 10mm T-handle wrench.
Is Fork Seal Replacement That Hard?
Keeping an eye on leaking fork seals is crucial to maintaining optimal suspension performance. Remember that an improperly working suspension is a safety hazard.
Whether you’re out with friends or out on the track on race day, leaking seals can ruin any riding day, especially if that blown seal is on the brake side. If your forks’ seals are just leaking or barely holding oil, your forks aren’t damping or springing like they should. The oil helps create bottoming resistance, allowing the fork to stay in the stroke it is meant to perform.
Most current generation forks contain a closed cartridge that houses the damping and rebound valve as well as the oil. The outer chamber houses the fork spring plus additional oil. When the main fork seals burn out, the oil in the outer chamber leaks out.
If oil seeps down through the seal and down the lower leg, dirt and debris can adhere to the tube. The initial size of the crack in the seal may be small and somewhat imperceptible, but after dirt gets past the dust wiper, it damages the seal itself, causing the oil to leak out faster.
Not only do you have to disassemble your fork this far for a seal change, but it helps visualize the components inside your fork and where the oil is leaking.
Leaking fork seals that are not fixed can allow dirt to seep through the interior of the fork, likely leading to more damage and potentially costly repairs.
Replacing fork seals can generally be performed in a well-equipped workshop using some standard tools and supplies, as well as some readily available specialty tools.
It is important to note that different suspension manufacturers have different methods of disassembly and reassembly. Therefore, always refer to your owner’s manual for specific instructions for your application. This guide is intended as a general guide and not all steps are the same in all applications.
In this step-by-step guide we replaced the fork seals on a set of used Showa cartridge closed forks on a 2007 Honda CRF 450R. For the purposes of this guide, we’re going to focus on a simple seal replacement to get you back on the track or trail rather than a full outer chamber cleaning and seal replacement.
The first step before beginning any repair is to make sure you have the right tools in your arsenal and a set of new gaskets to install. Attempting to “macgyver” things with the wrong tools can easily lead to more repairs and higher costs for you. Below is a list of the tools we used for this project:
Make sure you have the right tools and a clean workspace before you begin. Special hanging tools are readily available online.
47mm ProX fork seal kit
Torque wrench (recommended by a reputable company for accuracy)
Socket wrench (drive 3/8)
8mm socket or 8mm T-handle wrench
10mm socket or 10mm T-handle wrench
17mm, 19mm, 21mm bushings
17mm open end wrench
5mm allen key
Clevis Wrench
#2 flathead screwdriver
47mm fork seal ball
48mm fork seal driver
Grease seal and O-ring
5W fork fluid (or whatever your manual recommends)
pen and paper
600 grit wet/dry sandpaper
Workbench vise with rubberized jaws
oil pan
Suspension-specific cleaning chemicals (e.g. Maxima Suspension Clean)
Awesome Orange (diluted with water 50/50 mix)
Microfiber towels
**NOTE: Tool sizes may vary by suspension manufacturer.
There are many options when purchasing new seals. OEMs are great but can be overpriced. ProX oil seals and dust seals are made in Japan by the same OE suppliers to meet OEM quality without the price tag. They are available both individually and as sets.
Prepare your new seals before disassembly. Find HERE ProX seals for your bike.
It’s always a good idea to start with having all your tools on a clean workbench or table. Start by putting your bike on a stand and removing your front wheel and then your forks. Be sure to remove the fork guards and caliper (if applicable) before loosening the triple clamps and removing the forks completely.
Remove your front wheel, fork guard and caliper (if on the brake side) before removing the fork from the triple clamps.
Check your rebound clicker settings with a flat head screwdriver and make a note of them. To do this, turn the clicker clockwise and count each noticeable notch until it stops. Once it stops, don’t force it. The number of clicks is your setting. You will need to reset to this after reassembling your fork.
If you don’t know where your clickers are set, it’s a good idea to check and record them so you can reset them when you reassemble them.
Now that the clicker settings have been recorded and the fork(s) have been completely removed from the bike, we can begin replacing the seals.
Place the fork in the vise by clamping it at the axle eyelet.
Using a socket wrench/socket, completely loosen the bottom bolt under the axle eyelet.
Be careful with this step, it can be a bit tricky. Once the bottom bolt is loose you need to compress the fork by pulling the top of the fork towards the axle tab.
With the fork compressed and the damping rod exposed, use the open end of the open-end wrench to slide the damping into the center of the “U” shaped prongs behind the locknut and slowly rebound the fork to lock the tool against the axle while dragging.
You will need an open-end wrench, a socket wrench, and two hands for this step. Place the open end wrench on the jam nut and the socket wrench on the rebound bolt and loosen the rebound bolt. Remove the rebound bolt along with the inner adjuster rod from the damping rod.
Compress the upper tube toward the down tube to remove the crown cap wrench from the damping rod jam nut and release the spring tension.
Remove the fork from the vise, being careful not to spill oil, and reposition the fork in the vise so that the upper fork tube is moderately clamped and the top of the fork is tilted down. It is important to clamp in the middle of the pipe where it is roundest and has no taper. Here the lower triple clamp holds the fork.
Use your flathead screwdriver to separate the dust seal from the upper tube. Then, also using the flat head, remove the inner seal clip from the groove in the upper yoke.
Use the flat head to separate the dust seal from the upper tube and remove the seal clip (second photo). With these parts removed from the tube, grasp the lower tube with one hand and the upper tube with the other. Slide the lower tube into the upper tube, then quickly pull the lower tube away from the upper tube with enough force to separate the two tubes, leaving the oil and dust seal on the lower tube.
Remove the slide bushing, pilot bushing, washer, oil seal, seal clamp and dust seal from the top of the down tube and place them on the workbench in the order they were removed. It is also very important to note how the oil seal was positioned. Incorrect positioning will not seal the oil.
Clean your down tube with a clean microfiber and inspect the tube for dents and sharp burrs that may have caused the seal to leak. If nicks and burrs are found, use the 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper lubricated with the cleaning slurry to remove any sharp edges. Wipe the tube with a clean microfiber cloth to remove any contaminants from the grind and place the tube on your workbench.
**NOTE: Use the sandpaper ONLY WET and ONLY to remove specific burrs. Do not rub the entire tube or you will rub off the anti-friction coating on the tube and cause premature bushing wear.
Check your guide and slide bushings, washers, snap rings and o-rings. If any of them show damage or excessive wear, you should consider replacing them. If they look okay, a good cleaning should do the trick. If they need to be replaced, fork bushing kits can also be sourced from ProX with the same OEM quality and affordability of fork seals.
Inspect and clean your bushings, washers, clips and o-rings. If anything is damaged, replaced, or excessively worn, consider replacing with a new bushing set. Click here to view the ProX jack kits. After cleaning the bushings, apply seal and o-ring grease to the Teflon coating of the bushings and to the inside of the oil seal and dust seal to lubricate them.
Place your sealing ball over the fork tube far enough to cover the side bushing journal. Slide the dust seal onto the tube, then the seal clip, oil seal, washer, and guide bush in that order. Remove the sealing ball and reinsert the slide bushing into the trunnion.
Carefully place the lower tube back over the dampening rod and far enough into the upper tube to allow the bushing to hold the tube in place. Slide the bushing and washer into the upper tube. Use your gasket driver to drive the washer down and into the pipe opening. Repeat this process with the oil seal, making sure you drive the seal in far enough to expose the groove for the seal clip to fit in. Place the sealing clip in the pipe, making sure the clip fits 360 degrees into the groove. Finally, use the seal driver to position the dust seal on the bottom of the upper tube.
**NOTE: It is extremely important to ensure that the sealing clip is secured in the groove. This clip holds the seal in place and prevents the lower fork tube from detaching from the upper tube.
Clamp the upper fork tube out of the vise, being careful not to tip the fork down and spill oil. Reposition the fork in the vise and clamp it by the stub axle with the fork cap angled down.
Gently compress the upper tube to expose the damping rod through the underside of the axle eyelet and place the forked end of the crown cap wrench behind the jam nut. Slowly release the tension to allow the tool to settle on the underside of the axle eyelet.
Reinstall the adjuster rod and rebound screw on the damping rod. Using the open-end wrench and socket wrench, tighten the rebound bolt until it bottoms against the jam nut.
Squeeze the upper tube towards the axle eyelet to remove the retaining tool. Thread the rebound bolt into the axle eyelet and tighten to your owner’s manual.
Reset the rebound clicker to your desired settings.
Reposition the fork in the vise with the fork cap angled up and clamped moderately tight. Use your fork cap wrench to loosen the fork cap from the upper tube. Do not completely remove the cap from the tube.
Remove the fork from the vise and place it vertically on the floor. Completely detach the fork cap from the upper tube and slide the outer tube down.
Now put a measured amount of oil in the fork. This is an estimated amount of oil based on how much oil you lost due to the leaking seal. In most cases 10-20ml of oil is sufficient, however it is important that you have the amount of oil in your fork recommended in your manual.
Slide the outer tube back up to the fork cap and thread the cap into the tube. Using the fork cap wrench in one hand, hold the fork tube in the other hand and tighten the cap onto the fork to seal the cap to the tube.
If you are replacing the seals in both forks, repeat this process for the remaining fork.
Reinstall the fork(s) and fork guard(s), brake caliper (if applicable) and front wheel to the bike. It is important to refer to your service manual for all torque specifications when tightening bolts.
How much does it cost to replace a bike fork?
| Based on $90.00 per hour Minimum Service Fee $10.00 Parts not included Effective : 02.19.2021 | ||
|---|---|---|
| Suspension | ||
| 30067 | Install/Service Dropper Post | $40.00-60.00 |
| 30042 | Install Suspension Fork | $30.00-40.00 |
| 30068 | Install Rear Shock | $20.00-30.00 |
Is Fork Seal Replacement That Hard?
Inventory number Description Parts not included
Tune Ups/Overhauls
30000 Break-in Tune-up (within 60 days) N/C
30000L Late Break-in Tune-Up after 60 days to first year $40.00-60.00
30001 Tune-up (with Gear) $79.99
30002 Tune-up (single speed/freestyle) $40.00-$60.00
30003 Super Tune-up (includes drivetrain cleaning) $120.00-140.00
30004 Bike Build $60.00-150.00
30005 per build $180.00
30006 Overhaul $180.00
30007 Shipping Box $55.00
Wheels
30008 Flats on Bike $18.00
30009 Flats off bike $9.00
30010 Flats with Tune-Up $9.00
30013 Flats on e-bikes and fat bikes $25.00-40.00
30074 Tubeless Ready Tire Setup $35.00-50.00
30075 Non-TLR Tubeless Tire Setup $50.00-80.00
30011 Mount Tubulars $30.00
30012 wheel/spoke replacement $15.00-35.00
30015 impeller build $30.00-60.00
30016 hub rebuild $20.00-40.00
30060 Install New Front Wheel $18.00-25.00
30061 Install New Rear Wheel $25.00-40.00
30062 Adjustment Hub $15.00-30.00
powertrain
30018 Install chain and freewheel/cassette $30.00-45.00
30019 chain install $25.00
30020 Install Freewheel/Cassette $25.00-30.00
30021 Install chainrings $20.00-40.00
30022 Install Derailleur $25.00-40.00
30023 Install ATB Shifter $30.00-40.00
30024 Road Shifter Install $30.00-40.00
30025 Drive Train Cleaning $60.00
30026 Adjust both derailleurs $30.00-50.00
30027 Front or rear derailleur adjustment $20.00-25.00
30028 Derailleur Hanger Alignment/Install $25.00-40.00
30029 Install derailleur cable $20.00-40.00
30017 Internal Derailleur Cable Installation $30.00-40.00
30030 Bottom Bracket Install/Rebuild $30.00-40.00
30076 Installing Left Crank Arm $20.00
30077 Install Complete Crankset $25.00-50.00
30063 Electronic Component Firmware Updates $25.00-50.00
brakes
30078 Install disc brake pads $20.00-30.00
30031 Install Caliper $20.00-40.00
30032 Caliper Install Street $30.00-45.00
30033 Install Hydraulic Disc Brake (Each) $40.00-60.00
30064 Mechanical Disc Brake Install (each) $30.00-40.00
30034 Front and Rear Brake Adjust $15.00-25.00
30035 Hydraulic Brake Bleed $35.00-45.00
30036 Installing Brake Cable $20.00-35.00
30037 Installing Internal Brake Cable $30.00-70.00
30038 Internal Diac Brake Line Installation $40.00-60.00
front end
30039 Headset Install $20.00-30.00
30041 Install Gyro $25.00
30043 Install Rigid Fork $40.00-60.00
30073 Install road handlebars, includes tape $40.00-60.00
30045 Mtn/Hybrid/Cruiser handlebar mount $30.00-50.00
Install 30065 Aerobars $25.00-35.00
30046 Tape Road H-Bar/Install Grips or Barends $15.00
30066 Install Threadless Shaft $10.00-20.00
suspension
30067 Installation/Maintenance Dropper Post $40.00-60.00
30042 Install Suspension Fork $30.00-40.00
30068 Install Rear Shock $20.00-30.00
30070 Air/Adjust Front or Rear Shock $10.00
30044 Suspension Fork Rebuild (Normally Ships) Market
30069 Pivot Bearing/Bushing Rebuild $40.00-60.00
Accesories
30048 Install Luggage Rack/Child Seats (additional hardware not included) $25.00-35.00
30049 computers $15.00
30050 Cadence Computer $25.00
30051 Integrated Computers (Flight Deck, Power Tap, SRM) $35.00
30052 Training Wheels $15.00
30053 Fender $20.00–30.00
30054 Attach Cleats to Shoes $5.00
30055 Built-in Pedals $10.00
30071 Calibrate Computer $15.00
30072 Install Saddle/Seat $10.00
Fitting
30057 Bike Customization $75.00
30058 Shoe and Cleat Adjustment (RAD) $35.00
30056 non-bike connecting parts add $10.00
$5.00 per week storage fee for repairs left over 30 days
How much does it cost to service a fork?
| RockShox Forks | Full Service |
|---|---|
| Lyric Coil ’10-15 | $150.00 |
| Lyric Dual Position ’12-15 | $150.00 |
| BoXXer Coil Forks ’10-Present | $150.00 |
| Domain Coil ’07-Present | $135.00 |
Is Fork Seal Replacement That Hard?
Ready to schedule maintenance, tuning, or repair appointments? Do you have a question about our services and the components we service?
Call our shop at 417.324.7901 or contact us at:
Motorcycle Suspension Tech and Maintenance: How To Rebuild Your Fork | MC GARAGE
See some more details on the topic front fork seal replacement cost here:
Should getting your fork seals replaced cost 250 – ThumperTalk
/\ Ditto, $100 seems to be about the average give or take $10-20. The only reason I can think it’s so expensive might be because you took the …
Source: www.thumpertalk.com
Date Published: 9/28/2021
View: 7612
This tip could save you a fork seal replacement job – RevZilla
Leaky fork seal? This simple trick and a couple of minutes could save you a tedious repair job.
Source: www.revzilla.com
Date Published: 2/29/2022
View: 2353
Fork seals replacement cost! | Maintenance and Do-It-Yourself
Is that price with the forks removed or still on the bike? Parts and labor for removed forks should be $250 or less at the shop.
Source: www.hayabusa.org
Date Published: 11/13/2021
View: 2546
Fork seal replacement – How much $$? | Sportbike World
Seals are about $20 a piece, dust covers anothet $10. You will also need a fork seal driver ($80) and a fork spring compressor ($60). You could …
Source: www.sportbikeworld.com
Date Published: 5/22/2022
View: 3147
Price to fix leaking fork/fork seal? : r/motorcycles – Reddit
a mechanic will charge around 300 all in. to do it yourself, depending on what tools you have it will cost about 20 for the seals and 15 for the …
Source: www.reddit.com
Date Published: 2/3/2021
View: 5047
$700 For New Fork Seals? – Best Rest Products
Wanna spend $700 to replace your fork seals? Uhmmm – I don’t. … If you can’t see the details, the costs are about $700 for either bike.
Source: bestrestproducts.com
Date Published: 5/3/2021
View: 1165
Approximate cost to replace front fork seals… – GL1800Riders
I typically do fork seals for about $100 in labor for each fork leg, plus cost of fork oil, seals, and new bushings. New Gen GL1833 Maintenance …
Source: gl1800riders.com
Date Published: 11/20/2022
View: 217
Fork seal gone, rough cost? – Page 1 – Pistonheads
anyone know roughly what cost the triumph dealer will sting me for a replacement fitted? 2011 speed triple. Pothole. 34,367 posts. 261 months.
Source: www.pistonheads.com
Date Published: 6/6/2021
View: 3582
Truth About Fork Seal Replacement Cost
If you’re wondering the true cost of replacing your fork seals, here’s a good idea of what to expect in terms of cost and time.
Fork seal replacement cost for SHOPS
Cost: $150 – $400
Downtime: Up to 1-3 months
The cost of motorcycle shops and dealerships varies wildly depending on where you live geographically, but based on feedback from our customers they have ranged from $150 up to $400 for a shop to completely remove the forks and the fork seals replaced.
With labor and supply chain shortages, getting your motorcycle back on the road ready to ride can take up to 3 months at some stores.
DIY – Replace the fork seals yourself
Total cost: $75 – $250
Time to complete work: 3-6 hours of work
If you are relatively handy and up to the task of replacing your own fork seals, then this is what you would spend on both time and parts cost.
All prices depend on what type of motorcycle and fork you have.
Parts you will need:
Lot 2 – Fork Seals – $20 each. Lot 2 – Dust Seals – $10 each. Quantity 2 – 1 quart fork oil – $10 each.
Optional tools you may need:
Fork seal driver – $80 Fork spring compressor – $60
Time you need to invest:
If you’re relatively handy and have all the proper tools – 3 hours If you’re not relatively handy / organized – 6 hours
Fix leaking fork seals with Seal Mate
Cost: $5-$10
Repair time: 5 minutes
Learn more about Seal Mate here
If you’ve never heard of Seal Mate, it’s a tool designed to fix leaking fork seals in minutes and it’s so easy anyone can do it.
Seal Mate has helped over 200,000 riders worldwide fix their leaking fork seals so they can get back to doing what they love, which is RIDING!
It works on any brand of dirt bike or street bike.
Fork seals leak because dirt gets trapped between the oil seal and the fork upper tube.
Because of this, many new bikes or newly replaced fork seals can leak.
Seal Mate is a tool that removes dirt and debris from fork seals, allowing you to fix your leaking fork seals in minutes instead of hours or months like the above options for replacing your fork seals.
Seal Mate ships worldwide and orders usually ship within 24 hours.
It is also available in a variety of colors.
Click here to learn more about Seal Mate
Fork Seals Replacement Cost [Labor & Parts]
If you notice oil leaking from the fork tube of your motorcycle or dirt bike, it may be time to replace the fork seals. Bad fork seals can also affect your bike’s performance and handling, so get it taken care of as soon as possible.
Replacing your fork seals can cost anywhere from $50 to $500 depending on whether you do the job yourself or take it to a mechanic. The parts aren’t very expensive, so most of the cost will depend on how much you’re paying for the labor.
Replacing your fork seals can cost anywhere from $50 to several hundred dollars depending on who is doing the job. If you take your motorcycle or dirt bike to a local garage, expect to pay anywhere from $120 to $175.
You may find that the cost is much higher if you take it to a dealer or certain bike shops that charge more for the job.
Estimate for replacing fork seals
Value Garage $100-$135 Moderate Garage/Chain Repair Shop $125-$160 Dealer/Bike Shop $175-$500 Home Improvement $45-$150
The good news is that replacing the gaskets is a fairly easy task and many owners choose to do the job themselves. If you’re interested in taking the do-it-yourself approach, you could end up saving a ton of money on labor costs.
Cost of replacing fork seals yourself
If you decide to replace your fork seals yourself, you will pay a lot less than taking it to a workshop or dealer.
You only have to worry about the cost of parts, and any special tools you may need aren’t strictly necessary (but they make the job easier).
The price of the seals themselves depends on what type of bike you have and whether you are buying OEM (factory) or aftermarket parts.
A set of new seals can be as cheap as about $10, or they can be in the $40-$50 range. Most cost between $20 and $30 if you order them from an online retailer.
Here’s what you need to replace your fork seals Fork seals (2)
dust seals (2)
Fork oil (2 liters)
Fork seal driver (optional but recommended)
Fork spring compressor (optional but recommended)
DIY fork seal replacement cost
Total parts cost (without tools) $35-$75 Total parts cost (with tools) $100-200
The time investment in this project mainly depends on how familiar you are with working on the bike and whether you use the tools to make the job easier. Most people spend between two and six hours changing their fork seals.
What is a fork seal?
Fork seals usually refer to the seal kits in the fork of your motorcycle, dirt bike, or bicycle. The fork seals inside the fork are designed to keep the oil inside.
The visible seals on the fork are dust seals and are designed to keep dirt, dust and debris out of the fork. Most people replace all the seals at the same time.
If your fork seal fails, there’s a good chance the dust seal didn’t do its job.
One of the main reasons for seal failure is that dust and dirt particles enter the fork, creating an incomplete seal and allowing oil to leak out.
When to Replace Your Fork Seals
If you observe a leak from the fork seals, it means they need to be changed immediately. You can also change the seals as a precaution. It is recommended that the fork seals be serviced or replaced after 40 hours of riding.
Most owners wait until there is a problem with the fork seals, but by being proactive in addressing this issue, you can avoid dangerous situations.
If you’re using your bike for racing, it’s even more important that you keep up with this type of maintenance.
If you don’t drive often, you should change your seals at least every two years. So if you don’t reach the 40 hour mark within two years, change the seals anyway.
If your bike sits idle for too long, the seals can eventually dry out and crack, causing leaks.
Signs and symptoms of a bad fork seal
The most obvious sign of a leaking fork seal is when you notice oil leaking from the area. Even if you don’t see the oil right away, you’ll likely see a buildup of dirt and grime as the oil mixes from dirt and dust making contact.
You may also notice a small puddle of oil under the fork of your bike while it is parked. Leaking too much oil and getting the oil level too low can cause your suspension to behave differently.
Many riders feel these small changes in their bike’s handling and then look for the oil leak.
Leaking too much oil can create a dangerous situation, so it’s important to be aware of this issue and never ride with a blown fork seal.
Causes of fork seal damage
Motorcycles and dirt bikes put a lot of strain on your fork seals due to the way the vehicle is built.
If you ride your bike harder than the average commuter, e.g. B. if you ride your bike off-road or participate in races, you can put additional stress on the fork seal.
One of the big challenges associated with the fork and seals is keeping dirt and debris out. Driving off-road or on unpaved roads and trails can exacerbate the problem and wear out the seals even faster.
In addition to general wear and tear, dirt, dust, sand, and other debris can get into the fork tube.
If dirt particles get between the gasket and the pipe itself, the gasket will no longer be a tight fit in the pipe, resulting in a weak seal and leaks.
Servicing your fork seals
Keeping your fork seal clean and tidy will prolong part life and keep your bike performing at peak performance.
In addition to regularly rinsing dirt and debris off the machine, you should also periodically inspect your forks and clean the seals.
The best way to save some money on potential repair costs is to perform preventive maintenance to prevent breakdowns.
To clean your fork seals, you should have the following items available: Alcohol based suspension cleaner
rags or shop towels
flathead screwdriver
Choose
8mm T-handle
suspension grease
Allen key or socket wrench
Overall, you’re only looking at $35 or less for these materials, but the result will be worth it if you’re avoiding damage to your bike.
How to clean your fork seals
Follow these steps to clean and inspect your fork and dust seals:
Remove fork guard. Use an Allen key or socket wrench for this task. Remove the fork seal. Use a flathead screwdriver to gently wiggle the gasket down. If necessary, you can use a pickaxe. Clean the inside of the joint. Clean the inside and around the joint with your alcohol-based cleaner. You can also use compressed air to blow away dust and dirt. Pump the fork. Pump the fork up and down, then spray cleaner to remove any hidden debris. Clean the fork seal. Use your alcohol-based cleaner to gently clean the seal. Lubricate the dust seal. Use a very small amount of lube. Reattach the dust seal. Simply slide the dust seal back into place.
The final result
Replacing your fork seals is a necessary task for the regular, routine maintenance of your bike. If you ride your bike hard, riding it off-road or racing, you may need to check your seals more frequently.
Many people wait until they see a leak to look at their fork seals, but prevention is key to avoiding performance problems.
The good news is that replacing your fork seals is a fairly inexpensive job and many owners do the job themselves. If you buy a set of seals online, you can get them for under $40.
If you take your bike to a shop or workshop you will end up paying quite a bit more. You also need to consider time when deciding whether to do the work yourself.
It can take an inexperienced person several hours to change the seals. So if you’re someone who values your time more than the cost of the labor, you might prefer to take the bike to a shop.
Keeping your seals in good condition will help prevent oil leaks and damage, and ensure your suspension is working properly.
Establish a routine to regularly clean and inspect your seals for damage to keep your bike in tip-top shape.
Is Fork Seal Replacement That Hard?
Fork seals leaking. No matter how well you take care of your bike, try to keep it clean or use the best products, your fork seals will leak. O-rings are best suited for sealing against rotary movements, e.g. B. Where your transmission output shafts connect to your drive gear. Your fork seals are a similar seal, but they are designed to seal against the sliding movement of your fork. Aside from not being good for sealing for long periods of time, these seals sit right on the front of your bike and get blasted by dust and dirt.
You can take your bike to the dealer and spend a lot of money to replace the seals, or you can do the job yourself. Replacing your fork seals is a fairly easy task once you know a few tricks. The first step to any DIY job is to do a little research and get all the parts you need for the job. At a minimum, you’ll need the new seals and fork oil, but you should also consider scrapers, bushings, and any gaskets or o-rings for the caps. If you want to change the performance of your shock absorbers, you can also change the springs or valves.
Once you have your parts and maybe watched a few instructional videos, it’s time to get started. The first step is to loosen the cap on the fork so you can take things apart. Any time you try to tighten a damper, you must hold onto the damper tube. It is difficult to hold the shock while you work on it as you have to be very careful not to wear or mark the finish or you will ruin your new seals. A helper can be of great benefit here, or you might consider a vise with blocks of wood on the jaws, or some thick towels.
Once you’ve taken things apart and replaced the parts that need reconditioning, you need to know how much and what type of oil to use. The right weight of oil will keep your shocks dampened at the right weight, as will the right amount of oil. As a starting point, if you’re smart, you’ve collected all the oil you’ve removed from your shock absorbers. Remember your shock seals were leaking so you’ll have to put a little more oil in than you got out. An owner’s manual or dealer can help you figure out how much oil you need. Next you will need some kind of gauge. A glass measuring cup is often an easy choice and if it has milliliter markings it can be a good option. If your bike uses 2.5wt oil, PJ1 Fork Tuner Oil is your best option!
With new bushings and seals, pour in your fork oil and put things back together! Soon you’ll be leak-free again on the road or trail riding with the great responsive front suspension.
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