Frozen Mice For Snakes? 287 Most Correct Answers

Frozen rodents are now widely available in the pet trade and, when used correctly, represent a safe food source that can save time, space and money. As opinions vary as to the correct thawing methods, I thought it might be useful to outline the procedures followed in large zoological parks. Based on the human nutrition guidelines established by the US Department of Health and Human Services and the US Department of Agriculture, they have served me well throughout my career as a zookeeper and herpetologist.

general considerations

There are two safe methods for thawing rodents intended for reptile food – refrigeration and cold water. Defrosting in the microwave has certain disadvantages and should be avoided (see below).

Frozen rodents purchased from a store or breeder should be packaged in clean zip-loc bags before placing them in your fridge, freezer, or sink. Dishes into which these pouches are placed (to be warmed or thawed in cold water, see below) should be reserved for this purpose. Don’t use bowls that also contain your own food, even if the rodents are in clean bags. My apologies if this seems obvious, but it never ceases to amaze me how many people put their health at risk while trying to take care of their pets!

Defrosting mice and rats in the refrigerator

Refrigerated thawing is the method of choice in professional collections. It requires a bit of forethought but is very safe and requires no effort on our part (other than getting the food from the freezer to the fridge!).

Defrost time will vary based on refrigeration temperature (typically 35-40 F). The USDA uses 8-10 hours per 1 pound of meat as a general guideline; a mouse can be expected to thaw in 2 hours and a rat in 4-5 hours.

Fail-safe rule: Place frozen rodents in a refrigerator to thaw overnight and use the next day.

Defrost in cold water

This method is faster than cooling, but requires regular water changes and leaves more room for error. Frozen rodents in ziplock bags are placed in a bucket of cold water for 30 minutes, after which the water is drained and replaced. An adult rat can be thawed in as little as 1 hour.

The bags used should be leak-proof so that no harmful bacteria colonize the food.

Warming and use of thawed rodents

Once thawed, rodents need some warming up before feeding them to pet reptiles. This is best done by placing the bagged, thawed rodent in a bucket or other container of warm water. Timing will vary, but allow 10-20 minutes for one mouse in warm, but not too hot, water.

Use rodents shortly after thawing and warming. Whole animals contain internal organs, previously eaten food, and unprocessed waste, and rapidly decompose.

Common mistakes

Do not thaw rodents at room temperature or in hot water (including our own food). Bacteria associated with disease and putrefaction, which can be assumed to be present in all rodents, begin to multiply at 40 F. Such bacteria can attach themselves to the thawed outer surfaces of a foodstuff, even though its center is frozen.

Rodents should never be thawed in microwave ovens used for your own food. Defrosting in a microwave oven designed specifically for pet food is possible provided one can ensure the food is fully thawed but not partially cooked.

Rodents thawed under refrigeration can be refrozen (if left refrigerated). Rodents thawed in cold water should not be refrozen.

When you decide that a reptile or amphibian is the right pet for you, it’s important to learn how to properly care for your pet. Proper husbandry and veterinary care can help protect both of you from disease. By getting your pet routine veterinary care and following the tips in the Healthy People section, you are less likely to get sick from touching, petting, or possessing a reptile or amphibian.

While reptiles and amphibians can make interesting and fun pets, it’s important to realize that they sometimes carry germs that can make people sick. Young children, people with weakened immune systems and adults over the age of 65 are at higher risk of contracting germs carried by reptiles and amphibians.

Both reptiles and amphibians can carry pathogens. The most common germ transmitted by reptiles and amphibians is salmonella. Reptiles and amphibians often carry salmonella bacteria in their digestive tract. Even healthy reptiles and amphibians can carry the bacteria. Humans can contract Salmonella bacteria through contact with reptiles, amphibians, or their environment, including water from their tanks or aquariums.

Millions of households in the United States own at least one reptile (like a turtle, lizard, or snake) or amphibian (like a frog, salamander, or caecilian). Reptiles have dry and scaly skin while amphibians have smooth, slimy skin.

Symptoms in people: People may get diarrhea, fever, and abdominal cramps. Symptoms usually begin within 6 hours to 4 days of infection and last 4 to 7 days.

Signs in reptiles and amphibians: Salmonella bacteria live in the gastrointestinal tract of healthy reptiles and amphibians. Salmonella infection does not usually make these animals sick.

Who is at risk: Anyone can get Salmonella infection, but children under the age of 5, adults over the age of 65 and people with compromised immune systems are at higher risk of serious illness.

How it spreads: People can become infected with Salmonella bacteria by eating contaminated food or by coming into contact with an animal, its droppings, food, or items such as toys, food bowls, and habitats (cages, fish tanks, aquarium water).

Symptoms in humans: In humans, the most common sign of infection is a raised bump or sore where the bacteria has entered an open wound. Wounds are usually on the hands or arms. Multiple wounds can form a line. In very rare cases, the bacteria can spread throughout the body. Some infections will get better on their own, while others may require antibiotics or other treatment.

Signs in reptiles and amphibians: Infected reptiles and amphibians may show lumps, sores, or changes in skin color.

Who is at risk: People who work with or clean aquariums are more likely to be exposed to this germ. People with a weakened immune system have a higher risk of becoming seriously ill.

How It Spreads: This bacterium spreads through contaminated aquarium water. People can become infected through open cuts or wounds. It cannot spread from person to person.

Mycobacterium marinum is a species of bacteria commonly found in freshwater and saltwater aquariums and ponds. It primarily affects fish, but can also affect reptiles, amphibians, and humans.

Symptoms in humans: Common signs and symptoms include nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. Blood infections can occur in infants and adults with compromised immune systems. Aeromonas bacteria can also infect open wounds.

Who is at risk: Anyone can get Aeromonas infection, but young children and adults with compromised immune systems are most at risk for serious illness.

How it spreads: People can get sick from open wounds or from drinking contaminated water. Aeromonas bacteria cannot be transmitted from person to person.

Read below to learn more about diseases that reptiles and amphibians can transmit, and visit the Healthy People section to learn how to stay healthy around reptiles and amphibians.

How to stay healthy around reptiles and amphibians

Before you buy or adopt a reptile or amphibian as a pet, make sure it’s the right type of pet for your family. Know that some reptiles can live for a very long time. Reptiles and amphibians require special care and are more likely than other pets to carry pathogens like salmonella, even if they appear clean and healthy. For this reason, reptiles and amphibians are not recommended for homes with young children, people with compromised immune systems, or adults 65 and older.

Even though they appear healthy and clean, reptiles and amphibians can carry germs that can make humans sick. Follow these tips to reduce your risk of diseases transmitted by reptiles and amphibians:

wash your hands

Wash your hands with soap and running water: After touching or playing with reptiles and amphibians After feeding your pet or handling pet food After handling your pet’s feces or equipment (eg, cages, fish tanks, rocks , employment opportunities, aquarium decorations, aquarium water) After cleaning your pet’s tank or fish tank Before eating and drinking

Use hand sanitizer with at least 60% alcohol when soap and water are not readily available. Supervise small children when using hand sanitizer to prevent alcohol ingestion.

Learn more hygiene tips around animals.

Take care of your reptile or amphibian safely

Children under the age of 5 should not handle or touch reptiles or amphibians or their surroundings as they are at greater risk of serious illness and hospitalization due to salmonella infection.

Do not cross-contaminate. You don’t have to touch a reptile or amphibian to get sick from the germs they carry. Reptile food, aquarium water, equipment and habitats can be contaminated with salmonella and other germs.

Keep reptiles, amphibians and their gear away from the kitchen or anywhere food is being prepared, stored, served or eaten.

Do not allow reptiles or amphibians to roam freely in the home or living area. Supervise your pet when they are outside their habitat to avoid accidents and contamination.

Feed your reptile or amphibian safely

Use a designated container to store and thaw frozen food for your pet. Keep the animal food away from human food.

Wash your hands and clean the container immediately after feeding pet reptiles and amphibians.

Use of feed rodents

Frozen or live rodents used for pet food, also known as feeders, can carry pathogens. This can also happen if the rodent looks healthy and clean.

Children under the age of 5, adults over the age of 65, pregnant women and people with compromised immune systems should not handle rodents as they are at greater risk of rodent-borne diseases.

Freezing rodent feeders does not kill germs. Always wash your hands after handling live or frozen rodents or anything they have come in contact with.

Clean and disinfect all surfaces and materials that come into contact with rodents. Rodents can contaminate surfaces they are thawed on or anything they touch. You can get sick from touching contaminated surfaces; You don’t have to touch the rodents to get sick from their germs.

Keep rodents and their supplies away from the kitchen or other areas where food is prepared, served or consumed. Never use the kitchen sink or food prep areas to thaw frozen rodents or clean live rodent habitats. Do not thaw frozen rodents in the microwave.

If possible, clean up rodent supplies outside of your home. When cleaning rodent supplies indoors, use a sink or bath tub and immediately clean and disinfect the area thoroughly afterwards.

Whenever possible, use frozen rodents to reduce the risk of injury to you or your pet. Never feed your pets wild rodents.

Safely clean your reptile or amphibian’s habitat

Pet supplies such as tanks, feeders, water containers, and other pet equipment or materials should be cleaned outside of the home whenever possible.

Never use food preparation areas to clean reptile and amphibian habitats or equipment.

Clean pet supplies outside of your home. If you clean supplies outdoors, do so away from gardens or other sources of food or drink.

If cleaning outside of the house is not possible, clean in a sink or bathtub. When cleaning items in the bathtub, thoroughly clean and disinfect the area before others use it.

Pour tank water and other effluent from reptile and amphibian habitats down the toilet rather than into sinks or drains.

Prevent reptile scratches and bites

Not all reptiles and amphibians have teeth, but even those that don’t (like most turtles) can still have painful bites. Bites from reptiles and amphibians can be dangerous because, depending on the species, they can spread germs and sometimes other toxins. Bites and scratches can be serious injuries and sometimes lead to infection.

This will avoid bites and scratches

Don’t kiss or hold reptiles or amphibians close to your face, as this could startle them and increase your chances of being bitten.

Make sure the animal can see you before you pick it up. If an animal is surprised, it might bite out of fear.

Feed your reptile with tongs. Don’t give them food from your hand.

Touch your pet often to get used to being held. If you only touch your pet to feed them, they may learn to associate a hand with food.

What to do if you’ve been bitten or scratched

Pet bites and scratches can spread germs even if the wound doesn’t appear to be deep or serious.

If you are bitten or scratched by a reptile or amphibian you should:

Wash wounds immediately with warm, soapy water.

Consult a doctor, especially if the animal is poisonous or produces toxic substances. The animal appears ill or is behaving abnormally. The wound or injury is severe (uncontrolled bleeding, inability to move, extreme pain, visible muscle or bone, or the bite is over a joint). The wound or injury site becomes red, painful, warm, or swollen. (Especially if the bitten person is under 5, 65 or older, pregnant, or has a compromised immune system.) It has been more than 5 years since you last had your tetanus shot.

For snake bites, follow these guidelines.

If the animal becomes ill or dies after biting a person, notify your veterinarian within a few days to a week. They can determine if the animal might have had germs that could be transmitted to humans.

Poisonous reptiles and amphibians

CDC does not recommend keeping venomous animals as pets or in the home.

Venoms are a defense some reptiles and amphibians use to protect themselves from potential danger or harm in their environment. Some venomous animals, such as poison dart frogs and coral snakes, can be recognized by their bright colors and markings. However, some venomous animals are harder to identify. Some animals can transmit venoms through bites or through contact with their skin or saliva. Poison dart frogs, for example, ooze deadly toxins through their skin. A poison dart frog can produce enough poison to kill 10 adults.

There are many different species of venomous reptiles and amphibians around the world. In the United States, there are only four native species of venomous snakes (coral snakes, rattlesnakes, cottonmouth/water moccasins, and copperheads) and one venomous lizard (the Gila monster). However, the pet trade has introduced non-native animals to the United States.

You should always consider the unpredictable nature of venomous animals and be aware that treating a bite from a venomous animal is difficult. Poisons are very toxic and can have serious and life-threatening effects. Antivenoms can treat some bites, but these drugs can cost hundreds of dollars and may not be available in some hospitals. Additionally, antivenom can sometimes cause allergic reactions that can be just as dangerous as the venom itself.

If you have or work with venomous animals, make a list of all the hospitals in your area that stock antivenoms for these species. Include hospital phone numbers and addresses. Post this list somewhere easy to find, e.g. B. on your fridge or near the animal’s habitat.

Learn about venomous snakes, symptoms associated with snake bites, and first aid techniques.

What to do if you are bitten by a poisonous animal or poison gets on your skin?

1. How do you euthanize your animals?

When it comes time to euthanize our rodents, we use CO2 as a quick and humane method. This is an accepted industry standard.

Your rodents have received the best food and well water to ensure a happy and healthy eater!

So if you are feeding a corn, king, milk, boa, ball python, bearded dragon, monitor lizard or other reptile, amphibian, lizard or bird of prey, you can rest assured that your pet is getting the best and healthiest eats frozen mice & rats.

2. How do you ensure high quality rodents?

Our rodents are fed exclusively with a scientifically compiled rodent diet. Regular examinations and product samples are tested in the laboratory. We inspect and verify the internal quality and health of our rodent colony to ensure rodent health is of the highest standards.

We also maintain quality with quick freezing and special insulated shipping containers that ensure your pet’s food arrives fully frozen, ensuring freshness for your pet.

3. What do you feed your mice?

We feed a Mazuri diet. This food is scientifically formulated and has an excellent reputation as one of the best rodent foods available and is used in most zoos. We also offer this product to our customers who want to raise their own live rodents.

4. How long will the rodents last in my freezer?

We conveniently ship all of our rodents in thick, resealable plastic freezer bags. These are sealed with very little air inside to prevent freezer burn. By carefully resealing the freezer bags after each use, the rodents should last for 12 months or more.

5. What is the best way to thaw frozen rodents?

There are a few options for thawing frozen feeders:

#1 – Remove the rodents from the packaging and place them in a separate ziploc bag. Then slide the bag containing the frozen rodents you want to use into the water. The water should be warm; not burning hot or scalding. Mice typically thaw in less than an hour, while larger rats take more than 3 hours.

#2 – Take your rodents out of the box in the morning and place them in the fridge throughout the day to thaw. In the evening the feeders should be thawed and it only takes a short time to warm them up using Method #1.

Important: Never use the microwave to thaw your frozen rodents. This will cook the rodent and lose valuable nutrients your pet needs. The rodent could also be cool to the touch but very hot inside. This could injure your pet.

5. Are your rodent sizes the same as other online sellers or pet stores?

Often rodent dealers vary greatly in the size and weight of their rodents, which may share the same names as other dealers. This can make comparison difficult. Because we have been doing this for so long, our rodents’ sizes and weights are used by many other professionals. However, some use the name one size larger and sell one size smaller to increase profits. We never use this practice. Our rodents are the right size, weight and price. We tend to send the average of the weight and height range. In the product description of our rodents you will find a number of grams that each individual mouse or rat weighs, along with a quarter or bill for sizing.

To compare prices between companies that sell frozen rodents, it’s important that you check the weight listed for each rodent and then compare prices of products that are roughly the same weight. Note which unit of measure is used; Grams are the most commonly used.

6. Do you also sell live rodents?

Yes! Live rodents must be collected from our facilities in Northeast Georgia. Simply call or email to make an appointment and we’ll be happy to help. We also offer our customers the same excellent feed and bedding that we use in our facilities. If you would like a pickup we require 24 hour notification and the quickest way to schedule an appointment is to text 706-892-6381 with your name, your order and the day/time you would like a pickup .

Pricing and Payment Questions

1. How much are your rodents? What about group discounts?

We often send out codes for sales that we have. If you create an account and give us your email address, we will send you our sales. You can opt out of this program.

We also have what we call “B Class”. These are rodents that don’t live up to the visual expectations most customers want. There is nothing wrong with the health of the rodents and they are just as healthy as our “A Grade” mice. We only have a small selection of “B Grade” and customers who buy them are very satisfied.

2. “Have you ever had special offers on MiceDirect?”

If you sign up for our newsletter you will find that it is a very good way to get early notice of upcoming sales and promotions and to stay up to date on all the great offers we have to offer you here at MiceDirect .

3. “Is there a minimum quantity of rodents that must be ordered from your company?”

No, there is no minimum order value. To get free shipping and shipping there is a minimum of $69. If the order falls below this minimum, a $29 shipping and handling fee will be charged.

4. “Do you accept credit cards?” What about personal checks?”

We are pleased to be able to offer you various options for your payment convenience. We accept VISA and MasterCard and are also registered merchants with PayPal and Braintree. We do not accept cash on delivery. and all orders must be prepaid. For orders to be picked up in person at our facilities, please text 706-892-6381 to schedule an appointment and discuss payment options.

5. “What is your warranty policy?”

Our policy is 100% satisfaction guarantee. We want to earn and keep your business.

When your order arrives please inspect it immediately and call us at 706-348-7634 or email us [email protected] if there are any issues with the quality of our products and we will provide a 100% refund your purchase price. We ship products same day or next day of order and we ship 5 days a week and packages are delivered 7 days a week. So check your package daily or use your Fed Ex tracking number. The rodents will thaw and spoil if left beyond the time it takes to ship to your home.

General questions about rodents, reptiles and birds of prey

1. “Why feed reptiles frozen rodents instead of live ones?”

Although some people mistakenly believe that live food is better than frozen for their birds of prey and reptiles, frozen rodents are actually the preferred choice of many professional breeders, wildlife carers, zoos and hobbyists.

There are mutliple reasons for this:

1. Your pet can be bitten or scratched by live rodent and your pet will kill anything it wants to eat because it cannot eat live rodent.

2. Many prefer frozen rodents because of their convenience (they can be easily stored in large quantities, they are easier and more economical to receive than consignments).

3. The rodents are humanely euthanized, making them easier to manage than a live rodent.

4. It eliminates the many disadvantages of either maintaining a live animal colony or having to repeatedly go to the pet store for a small number of live animals. For this reason, they are economically the better choice.

5. Finally, most importantly and worth repeating…because they are a safer, healthier choice for the animals in their care. Often live prey will fight back and bite or scratch and injure the reptile, and animals captured alive or purchased from unreliable sources can harbor all sorts of diseases and parasites which can then be transmitted to the raptor or reptile that ingested them.

Many people assume that live food is always better than frozen food for raptors and reptiles because they will eat it in the wild. However, what some fail to realize is that when we bring these animals into captivity, we have already changed the game and at that point we take responsibility for their health and safety. Yes, animals in the wild do not eat frozen food. But they also don’t live in cages or artificial habitats, and they can die in the wild from wounds from live prey or from parasites and diseases transmitted by prey in the wild.

3. “How difficult is it to transition our reptiles from live food to frozen food?”

First of all, it is important to ensure that your frozen food is completely thawed. Some people have found it helpful to ensure the rodent is still warm from the warm water rather than completely cooled. Snakes see with infrared, so they see that they are attracted to the heat. The first step is to use a pair of hemostats to dangle the food in front of your pet and move the food around to tease your pet as if it were a live animal.

Very important: Never hand feed your pet. They will quickly identify your hand as food and start hitting you when you pick it up. Using pliers takes your hand out of the equation and makes life better for you and your pet. If that doesn’t work for you, read our article on Frozen vs. Live in our Articles section of our website or email us at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help you with that or any other Area where you need advice on feeding or caring for your reptiles or birds of prey.

4. “How do I get a reptile to feed on live rodents from other food sources?”

One of the best ways we’ve found to address this issue is to take the food you normally feed your pet and rub its scent onto the rodent. Often this is enough to convince the predator that the rodent is good prey. If that isn’t effective, you can get other ideas by reading the article on Frozen vs. Live in our Articles section of our website (from “Feeding Pre-killed vs. Live Prey” by Melissa Kaplan) or you can give a shout Call us at 706-348-7634 or email us at [email protected] and we’d be more than happy to share our experience as true rodent professionals and to assist you in this or any other area, in which you need advice on feeding or caring for your reptile or bird of prey.

Questions about the site

1. “How do I find what I’m looking for on your website?”

When you are on our site, you will see links or section titles at the top of our page that will take you to different parts of our site. Just click Mice, Rats, Chicks or Class B to go to that section. Each page has a menu of links to guide you.

2. “Is ordering online with MiceDirect safe?”

Our shopping cart is very secure and certified by the Equifax Secure Certificate Authority through our host provider Powweb. We have an SSL certificate that makes our website secure. If you use our shopping cart, or any other secure site on the web, you’ll know it’s safe when you see a lock icon in the bottom right of your screen or notice the URL path change from normal http:// to https: // (the “s” stands for safe). To view the certification, double-click the lock icon.

However, if for any reason you do not wish to order your shipment online, please call us at 706-348-7634 and we will be happy to take your order over the phone instead.

3. “Does MiceDirect ever give or sell my personal information to other companies?”

No, we value our customers’ rights to privacy and security and we will never sell or share your information with third parties except for shipping purposes (Fed Ex or UPS). For more information about our policies and how we use your personal information, see our policies in our Privacy Notice section for more information.

overview

Feeding live rodents to reptiles and amphibians is strongly discouraged for a number of reasons, particularly the danger they can pose to your pet. Live rodents can bite reptiles and amphibians, inflicting severe, sometimes life-threatening wounds. Frozen food is safer and healthier for your pet, and teaching him to accept frozen food after he’s only eaten live food may not be as difficult as you think.

Types of frozen/thawed foods

Pinkies are the most common rodents fed to young reptiles and amphibians. They are young mice that are almost hairless and are the smallest rodents typically offered to reptiles and amphibians

Fuzzies are juvenile mice with some fur that are the second smallest rodents fed to reptiles and amphibians

Hoppers are larger than fuzzies but only about half the size of adult mice

Adult mice and rats are commonly fed to larger reptiles and amphibians

Benefits of Frozen/Thawed Feeding

Some pet stores, reptile and amphibian experts, and books state that feeding live prey is the best food choice. That’s just not true. Frozen/thawed food is just as good, if not better than live food.

Some people argue that pets need to kill their prey like animals in nature, or that they should feel the “thrill of killing,” but pets behave very differently than animals in nature. Pet reptiles and amphibians don’t spend their days foraging for food and hiding from predators; Instead, they are housed in comfortable enclosures and have all of their habitat needs met. They are also confined in a much smaller space than their counterparts in nature, so they cannot escape a live, biting rodent in their habitat if they choose not to eat it

Frozen food storage requires much less space than housing, feeding, and caring for live prey before feeding it to pets

Live food may contain internal and/or external parasites; Freezing will remove most parasites that can harm pet reptiles or amphibians

Buying frozen prey costs less than buying live rodents

All frozen food is humanely euthanized according to a set of government mandated guidelines, while feeding live rodents can be inhumane to the rodents

Things to consider when feeding frozen/thawed food

Security for your pet

Feeding frozen/thawed food is safer for your reptile or amphibian than feeding it live prey. An animal that is not hungry is unlikely to eat; it will ignore the prey. The prey animal, on the other hand, may not be as relaxed when left alone in a tank with a predator. Rodents can become aggressive, attacking and injuring the disinterested reptile or amphibian, causing severe, sometimes life-threatening, damage to the skin, muscles, and even bones.

Even if a pet is hungry and tries to catch the prey, the prey can use its teeth and claws to defend itself and hurt the pet. Severe bites and scratches can cause blindness, wounds and even death in pet reptiles and amphibians. Feeding frozen/thawed prey eliminates this risk and protects your pet while feeding.

Switching Pets to Frozen/Thawed Feeding

If not immediately, most reptiles and amphibians will eventually learn to eat frozen/thawed food. Some pets are stubborn and may take a little longer to accept eating frozen/thawed prey. For more unruly pets, try these techniques:

Try foods of different sizes or colors

Make sure the food is warm (place in a plastic bag to keep dry and soak in near-hot water before feeding).

Use long tongs (not your fingers!) to dangle the food in front of your pet

Let your pet get into a hideout; then use tongs to wiggle the warm food in the entrance

Try different movements with your pliers, e.g. B. up and down, side to side, at different speeds, etc. to stimulate your pet’s interest in the thawed prey

Using tongs, pull the food over the feeder so it looks like it’s bouncing

If all else fails, feed a single small live prey item, make sure the pet eats it, and immediately follow it up with a frozen/thawed item

If your pet is still stubborn about accepting frozen/thawed food, be patient and try to leave the food in the feeder for a longer period of time. You can even try leaving the food in the feeder overnight to encourage your pet to explore the food.

Watch for positive reactions (head turning, tongue flicking, sneaking up) while feeding your pet. If the pet seems stressed, stop and try again later. Remember that skipping a meal every once in a while will not harm your reptile or amphibian. Don’t give up easily and return to live feeding if they occasionally skip eating.

How to defrost frozen food

Never feed your pet food that is still frozen! Thaw it and make sure it’s warm before feeding it. DO NOT use a microwave to thaw frozen food as it can leave hot spots that can burn your pet’s mouth, along with cold spots in the centre. Microwaves can also cause food to explode. Because frozen prey can contain germs that can cause disease in humans, it should not be thawed in areas such as kitchen sinks or countertops where human food is prepared.

Follow these steps to thaw frozen loot:

Remove the appropriate number of foods from the bag

Place the food in a plastic bag to keep it dry and place it in a special thawing container (for frozen reptile and amphibian food only) filled with cold tap water

Leave the food in the water until thawed, then discard the cold water

Next, fill the container with warm water and allow the thawed prey, still in the plastic bag, to soak for 10–15 minutes before discarding the water

Just prior to removing thawed prey and feeding, run near-hot water into the container to warm the food to above room temperature

Remove food from container and plastic bag; Offer it to your pet right away

Alternatively, you can also let the frozen food slowly defrost in the refrigerator; If time is an issue, little fingers are usually small enough to thaw by running them under warm tap water for a few minutes

Where to buy

Frozen food for reptile feeding is available online and in store from Petco. If visiting your local location, please call ahead to check availability.

deliveries

frequently asked Questions

Where can I buy frozen mice? At your local Petco or com .

At your local Petco or . what is a little mouse Pinkies are young mice that are almost hairless and are the smallest rodents usually offered to reptiles and amphibians.

Pinkies are young mice that are almost hairless and are the smallest rodents usually offered to reptiles and amphibians. How should I thaw frozen mice for a snake? Never feed your pet food that is still frozen! Thaw before feeding and make sure it is warm. DO NOT use a microwave to thaw frozen food as it can leave hot spots that can burn your pet’s mouth, along with cold spots in the centre. Microwaves can also cause food to explode. Because frozen prey can contain germs that can cause disease in humans, it should not be thawed in areas such as kitchen sinks or countertops where human food is prepared.

Never feed your pet food that is still frozen! Thaw before feeding and make sure it is warm. DO NOT use a microwave to thaw frozen food as it can leave hot spots that can burn your pet’s mouth, along with cold spots in the centre. Microwaves can also cause food to explode. Because frozen prey can contain germs that can cause disease in humans, it should not be thawed in areas such as kitchen sinks or countertops where human food is prepared. Follow these steps to thaw frozen prey: Remove the appropriate number of food items from the pouch. Place the food in a plastic bag to keep it dry and place in a special thawing container (for frozen reptile and amphibian food only) filled with cold tap water. Leave the food in the water until thawed and then discard the cold water. Next, fill the container with warm water and allow the thawed prey, still in the plastic bag, to soak for 10–15 minutes before simply discarding the water. Just leave in near-hot water before removing the thawed prey and feeding run the tank to warm the feed to above room temperature. Remove the lining from the container and plastic bag. offer to your pet immediately Alternatively, you can also let the frozen food thaw slowly in the refrigerator; If time is an issue, little fingers are usually small enough to thaw by running them under warm tap water for a few minutes

Additional care sheets

Live insects for reptile feeding

Notes & Resources

Ask a Pet Care Center associate about the selection of Petco products available for the care and well-being of your new pet. All products have a 100% money back guarantee.

Because all reptiles and amphibians are potential vectors of infectious diseases such as salmonella bacteria, always wash your hands before and after handling your reptile or amphibian or their habitat contents to prevent the possible spread of disease. Pregnant women, children under the age of 5, the elderly, and those with compromised immune systems should consult their healthcare practitioner before purchasing or caring for any reptile and should consider owning a pet other than a reptile.

For more information, see the Centers for Disease Control at cdc.gov/healthypets.

Key messages for the Zoonoses Education Coalition

Healthy reptiles and amphibians can transmit salmonella and other zoonotic (transmissible to humans) germs. Always wash your hands thoroughly after handling reptiles and amphibians or touching anything (eg, food, habitat, or habitat decoration) in which they live or roam. Reptiles and amphibians are not recommended as household or classroom pets for children under the age of 5. From the age of 5, people with weakened immune systems, pregnant women and the elderly should not handle or handle amphibians or reptiles or objects in their environment as they can cause a are at higher risk of serious illness and hospitalizations from salmonella or other germs. Keep your reptiles and amphibians and their gear away from your kitchen or other places in your home where food is prepared, served, or consumed. Never use food preparation areas to clean reptile and amphibian habitats or anything in their habitats. Ideally, these items should be cleaned outside of your home. If you need to clean the bathroom habitat or habitat items, clean and disinfect the area completely afterwards. No cross contamination! Humans don’t have to touch a reptile or amphibian to get sick from their germs. Any items associated with reptiles or amphibians – such as B. frozen or live rodent prey, habitat cleaning equipment, habitat decor and aquarium water – can be contaminated with Salmonella bacteria and other germs that are contagious to humans. Don’t kiss or cuddle with reptiles and amphibians; This behavior likely increases the likelihood of germ transmission and your risk of infection.

The information on this care sheet does not replace a veterinarian. If your pet is ill or not eating, or if you need additional information, please contact your veterinarian.

Do you think you know snakes? Take our snake quiz

Snakes are often treated as voracious and extraterrestrial creatures in popular culture, and there is a degree of truth to that. The ability of snakes to open their jaws and swallow prey of seemingly impossible sizes whole is incredible, and that’s doubly true when talking about a giant snake like an anaconda. But what may seem frightening to us is a sign of evolutionary success.

Natural selection caused the snake to lose the four legs of its ancestors, but snake species today represent one-third of the total number of reptilian species. On the surface, the snake takes several complex biological processes and reduces them to their most basic parts to preserve their primitive adjust body shape. But that also forces snakes to take on some genuinely creative — and often ghastly — traits to help them accomplish tasks that come naturally to creatures like humans and chimpanzees.

Because of some of these unique changes, snakes can go without food for long periods of time. But the why and the how are the important part of the answer. Here’s how some snakes evolved the ability to go long periods without food, and how circumstances caused them to become that way.

10,397 people failed this quiz. Do you think you can? Take our brand new A-Z Animals Snakes Quiz

How snakes eat their prey

Because snakes are unable to tear or cut the flesh of their prey, they must open their jaws as wide as they can wiggle their lower jaw under their prey. iStock.com/tikephoto

A snake’s open and hissing mouth might be terrifying up close, but it’s also a reminder that we’re lucky to be able to chew. All snakes are ambush predators, but they have evolved three primary methods of consuming prey, each with varying degrees of effectiveness depending on a species’ size, species, and environment.

Venom is perhaps the most effective. Snakes’ needle-like fangs might not be great for ripping and tearing through an animal’s body, but they’re effectively built like hypodermic needles. Once the venom takes effect – either killing or paralyzing prey – the snake can proceed to swallow it. In some cases — as in pit vipers like rattlesnakes — the venom may even begin to liquefy the insides of a prey to make it easier to digest. But only about one in five snake species is poisonous.

Constrictor species are more common, as they crush their prey using a variety of methods to incapacitate them before swallowing them. Others – like the garter snake – are simple, effective predators that can swallow their prey whole. For constrictors and venomous snakes, the real duty is to actually swallow their prey. These snakes cannot tear or cut the flesh, but instead must open their jaws as wide as possible and slowly wiggle their lower jaws under the prey as if leveling a forklift. A snake’s upper and lower jaws do not separate, but can open up to four times the width of a snake’s body. Their skin is similarly designed to be flexible and to mold around the food.

How snakes use their energy

Contemplating how these legless reptiles can go so long without food requires an understanding of how and why different animal species require dramatically different amounts of energy. While the organisms that cover this planet take incredibly diverse forms, the process of natural selection that underlies it all is driven by the simple arithmetic of energy expended and expended. Being warm-blooded, humans and all other mammals can maintain their body temperature inside. While this allows mammals to be more active than their reptilian counterparts, this active metabolism is also energy consuming. The cheetah is the world’s fastest land mammal, but proper care of this body means it eats over five pounds of meat a day.

Reptiles can afford to be more energy efficient because they use an external power source. Natural heat and light keep them active and moving, and snakes can perform at optimal effectiveness between 80 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit. Their lower metabolism means they need to eat less food altogether, and the average reptile only needs 20-25% of the nutrient intake of a mammal. It’s an effective way to succeed because it allows them to thrive even when the opportunities for more deadly yet also more energy-dependent mammalian predators may not be sustainable. It also allows them to survive cold weather effectively without incurring the expense of maintaining their body heat or developing specialized behaviors like hibernation.

How snakes digest their prey

Being able to incapacitate their prey with a single venomous bite and then swallow it whole often allows these ambush predators to both hunt and eat—but digesting their meal—with very little expenditure of energy is a very expensive process. The Burmese python is an extreme but representative example. Once a fresh meal is carried into the esophagus and the chemical process of breakdown begins in the snake’s stomach, that snake’s body begins to mutate wildly. Their metabolism speeds up to 44 times its original rate, and their organs can grow up to twice as large to maximize the efficiency of the digestive process. This isn’t the norm, but it’s impressive considering most snake species typically eat a quarter of their body weight in a single sitting. Pythons are particularly voracious eaters, and some pythons have been known to eat up to 95% of their body weight.

Humans may need three decent meals a day, but a snake can just eat once and then take a long nap while it digests it. The actual digestion process can vary depending on the size of the snake, the ambient temperature, the size of the meal, or several other conditions. Shorter meals can take three days, but a giant snake like an anaconda can take weeks to fully digest a larger meal like a deer.

Longer and more difficult digestive processes harbor dangers. Larger game is more likely to have horns, fangs, or claws that can pierce an internal organ and kill the snake. They need exposure to heat to properly digest, but they’re also vulnerable targets while they’re stuffed with their meal. And while the digestive acids used are strong, a snake’s organs are in a race with their prey. If it can’t dissolve the prey faster than the corpse can decompose, the snakemeal could poison them, grow in their stomachs, or set off a gas explosion. It can be a costly risk, but a large meal dramatically increases the time a snake can go without food.

The Average Snake’s Diet

Snakes can sometimes go for weeks without food. iStock.com/mjf795

How often and how much food the average snake needs can vary widely between different species. Researchers have identified both common and rare feeders, with the latter displaying the behavior of ball pythons, which have been shown to grow their organs to aid in digestion. Baby snakes and gluttons can eat about twice a week, while infrequent eaters can easily go several weeks without food. In extreme cases, it can take weeks for the last meal to be digested at all.

As reptiles, snakes are also capable of reaching a state called brumation, which allows them to sink into a deep torpor during the colder months. It can be a crucial survival technique when prey is scarce and difficult to track—and with a lack of sunlight and heat, most snakes are ill-equipped to hunt anyway. Corn snakes are known to go two to three months without food during breeding, but many species periodically pause during longer breeding seasons to forage for new food.

How long snakes can go without food

A baby snake begins to starve seriously after about a week without food—and once that baby grows into an adult, members of most snake species can get along comfortably for at least two to three weeks. But the time it takes for a snake to starve can vary significantly by species. Smaller snakes tend to feed more frequently than larger ones, but species like the ball python can go up to two years without food. With no internal metabolism to deal with, the energy cost of doing nothing is much less than that of a comparable mammal.

However, science is only just beginning to uncover the full survival capabilities of snakes. A study looking at the tactics snakes use when they’re about to starve took different species of snakes and observed their behavior when they weren’t fed for six months. In addition to their naturally low energy requirements, three different snake species demonstrated the ability to lower their metabolism by an additional 70%. It’s an intriguing, but still uncertain, look at how these creatures function and how they may be able to survive without food for even longer than we think possible.

Next: Do butterflies drink blood? And 13 more surprising facts about butterflies

Snakes are probably the most commonly kept reptile species. Family-friendly snake species like corn snakes and ball pythons are being bred in captivity around the globe for us to have in our homes and pet stores. Most pet snake care is very transparent and we can do a damn good job of creating a comfortable environment for our slippery comrades. There’s just one problem, why isn’t my snake eating? Our pet snakes’ refusal to eat is very frustrating and worrying for owners, and there are a few factors you can control to ensure your snake has a healthy appetite.

Emphasize

Refusal to eat is a signal that your snake is stressed. It shouldn’t come as a surprise that snakes are routine animals and don’t like change all that much. If your snake has just been moved to its new home and is not eating, there is a very high chance that your snake is refusing food due to the stress of moving. If this is the case, leave the new snake alone for some time to get used to the new environment. If your snake is already a seasoned resident of your home, look for other signs of change. Has the terrarium been moved to a new location? Change in lighting or temperature? Introducing a new pet into the home? All of these things can contribute to or cause a stressed pet snake. Over-handling your pet snake is a common mistake of new snake owners that can cause stress. Your snake should not be treated as a hatchling unless absolutely necessary!

temperature humidity

Like all cold-blooded creatures, snakes are extremely dependent on their environment to stay healthy. Snakes need a warm atmosphere to retain their apatite and properly digest food. If your enclosure is too cold (usually below 75F), your snake may develop lethargy and digestive problems. Slow digestion can cause your snake’s food to literally rot in its own belly, causing serious illness. On the other hand, keeping your snake in a tank that is too hot or without a heat gradient to allow them to regulate their internal temperature can be very psychologically stressful. Make sure you’ve done enough research on your snake species to determine the optimal ambient and sun temperature for your enclosure. Heating elements should ALWAYS be controlled by a thermostat (Pisces recommends: Exo Terra 600W thermostat). Incorrect humidity levels can lead to skin and/or respiratory conditions that result in decreased appetite. Review your substrate choice and make sure it’s right for your snake. Typically, aspen shavings are best for burrowing species, where tree snakes can be comfortable and healthy with damp paper towels on the bottom of the tank. A digital hygrometer is great for monitoring your relative humidity (Pisces recommends: Precision Digital Hygrometer)

Conditioning before the shed

Sometimes refusing to eat can be as simple as preparing to molt. It is very common for your snake to refuse food in this state for days or weeks. If your snake scales are looking paler than usual and you might have milky looking eyes, it most likely is! Don’t stress, it’s completely normal! Leave your snake alone for a few days (except for spraying and water changes) and let it do its thing. If your snake has a rough scale, help it out with a skinning product to ease the process. Pisces recommends: Zoo Med Repti Shedding Agent.

Feeding & Environment

Take a look at your current tank setup. Snakes like to hide and feel like they are not visible. If your aquarium is in a high traffic area of ​​the house with no walls or backdrops in a very open tank with no real place to feel safe outside of hiding, this will cause stress to your snake. Simply adding moss, cork bark, a few pieces of driftwood, or artificial plants will help your snake feel less self-conscious. When feeding, try to adjust your lighting to be very dim or dark. This helps mimic their natural feeding behavior in the wild. While feeding, hold the feeder by the tail with tongues and wiggle it around a bit and play a “You can’t catch me” type game with your snake by wiggling the feeder and moving around the snake. This will fascinate the snake and help it catch its prey.

Alternate Methods

If your snake still won’t eat, there are a handful of helpful tips and tricks you can try to encourage your snake to eat:

Warm the food bowl before offering it.

“Play” with its prey, moving it up and down and around the enclosure to mimic live prey. Dangle the feeder over the snake’s head and near sensitive areas like the nostrils to provoke a feeding response.

Smell its prey by wiping it with another prey.

Provide your snake with more hiding places and sheltered areas where it can feed undisturbed.

Cut the feed to release the blood smell

If your snake still won’t eat and you’re concerned, seek veterinary help!

If you’ve wondered, “What do snakes eat?” look no further. A great way to properly care for your pet snake is to feed it exclusive carnivore meats. But the type of meat and frequency of feedings will vary by species. You should be sure you’re feeding your snake the right things based on their individual needs.

Different types of snakes require specific types of meat, so be sure to feed your slippery fellow accordingly. Read on to learn more about snake food for pets.

What can you feed a pet snake?

Rodents are a popular option

While different snake species have different diets, captive snakes are typically fed mice or rats. They can be live, newly killed, or frozen. Rodents are a popular choice for snake food because they serve as a balanced, nutritionally complete meal. Many snake experts recommend feeding snakes only dead rodents to avoid injury to either the keeper or the snake. In addition, frozen rodents should be thawed before feeding.

There are other alternatives if your snake’s species is not rodentivorous

However, some species of snakes do not eat rodents. You could eat:

fishes

snails

eggs

insects

Commercially available snake food in the form of a sausage made from meat from more traditional farm animals

Before purchasing a snake, make sure you know its nutritional needs, whether it eats live or frozen food, and if it eats rodents. Most foods are usually stored in the refrigerator to prevent spoilage, although frozen mice should remain frozen until just before consumption.

Snake food cost

The price of feeding a snake has a wide range, with the exact values ​​depending on the type of snake you own. If your snake eats mice, prices range from 20 cents to $2 each. Frozen mice can be bought in bulk to save some money. The larger the snake, the more its food costs, as it has to consume larger rodents. Snakes that eat food other than rodents sometimes cost more because their food is not as widely available. Sausage-shaped snake food, which can only be fed to some snakes, costs around $1 each. Insects like crickets, which are usually given to snakes as treats, can be purchased for pennies.

feeding frequency

Again, the frequency of feeding snakes depends on the species of snake you own, what their diet consists of, and other factors.

Age: Younger snakes eat more than adult snakes. On average, when fed rodents, a young snake will eat about twice a week, while most adults eat once every other week.

Younger snakes eat more than adult snakes. On average, when fed rodents, a young snake will eat about twice a week, while most adults eat once every other week. Gender: Female snakes tend to eat more during the breeding season.

Female snakes tend to eat more during the breeding season. Environmental Changes: Changes in a snake’s hunger levels occur in response to changes in its environment, such as: B. temperature or humidity.

A snake’s hunger level can be measured by offering it food – if it eats it, it was hungry, and if it didn’t, it wasn’t hungry. Make sure your pet snake is getting the right amount of food with each serving. Smaller snakes, like corn snakes, do well with baby mice, but a boa should be fed larger mice.

How to feed a snake

As beautiful as your snake’s habitat is, you probably don’t want to stick your hand in a hungry snake’s enclosure. Here are some do’s and don’ts when feeding your snake:

Use tongs to drop or put the food inside the cage.

If you have multiple snakes, they should be fed separately to avoid food fights.

After feeding, give your snake some time to digest its food before handling it.

You should remove uneaten food from a snake’s enclosure after it has been there for four hours.

In addition to food, snakes should always have access to a clean bowl of water, which should be changed at least daily. This bowl of water should be shallow and large enough for them to dip into.

If your snake defecates in its water bowl, change the water and clean the water bowl thoroughly.

What not to feed snakes

Again, snakes should not be fed live rodents. Live rodents may scratch or bite you or your snake, resulting in injury or even death of the snake. Don’t feed eggs, fish, insects, or other foods to snakes that don’t have these things in their diet in the wild. Also, be sure to stick to a feeding schedule so your snake doesn’t overeat. Overeating can lead to obesity, which is particularly dangerous for snakes as it can lead to a number of serious health problems.

Snakes are fun pets to have and sometimes to hold. They range from docile and sure-footed to aggressive and venomous, and vary widely in length, but what most snakes have in common is that they eat rodents. A balanced diet is important to maintain your snake’s health. Be sure to consult your veterinarian if you have additional questions about what to feed your snake.

Editor’s Recommendations

Do you think you know snakes? Take our snake quiz

Snakes are often treated as voracious and extraterrestrial creatures in popular culture, and there is a degree of truth to that. The ability of snakes to open their jaws and swallow prey of seemingly impossible sizes whole is incredible, and that’s doubly true when talking about a giant snake like an anaconda. But what may seem frightening to us is a sign of evolutionary success.

Natural selection caused the snake to lose the four legs of its ancestors, but snake species today represent one-third of the total number of reptilian species. On the surface, the snake takes several complex biological processes and reduces them to their most basic parts to preserve their primitive adjust body shape. But that also forces snakes to take on some genuinely creative — and often ghastly — traits to help them accomplish tasks that come naturally to creatures like humans and chimpanzees.

Because of some of these unique changes, snakes can go without food for long periods of time. But the why and the how are the important part of the answer. Here’s how some snakes evolved the ability to go long periods without food, and how circumstances caused them to become that way.

10,397 people failed this quiz. Do you think you can? Take our brand new A-Z Animals Snakes Quiz

How snakes eat their prey

Because snakes are unable to tear or cut the flesh of their prey, they must open their jaws as wide as they can wiggle their lower jaw under their prey. iStock.com/tikephoto

A snake’s open and hissing mouth might be terrifying up close, but it’s also a reminder that we’re lucky to be able to chew. All snakes are ambush predators, but they have evolved three primary methods of consuming prey, each with varying degrees of effectiveness depending on a species’ size, species, and environment.

Venom is perhaps the most effective. Snakes’ needle-like fangs might not be great for ripping and tearing through an animal’s body, but they’re effectively built like hypodermic needles. Once the venom takes effect – either killing or paralyzing prey – the snake can proceed to swallow it. In some cases — as in pit vipers like rattlesnakes — the venom may even begin to liquefy the insides of a prey to make it easier to digest. But only about one in five snake species is poisonous.

Constrictor species are more common, as they crush their prey using a variety of methods to incapacitate them before swallowing them. Others – like the garter snake – are simple, effective predators that can swallow their prey whole. For constrictors and venomous snakes, the real duty is to actually swallow their prey. These snakes cannot tear or cut the flesh, but instead must open their jaws as wide as possible and slowly wiggle their lower jaws under the prey as if leveling a forklift. A snake’s upper and lower jaws do not separate, but can open up to four times the width of a snake’s body. Their skin is similarly designed to be flexible and to mold around the food.

How snakes use their energy

Contemplating how these legless reptiles can go so long without food requires an understanding of how and why different animal species require dramatically different amounts of energy. While the organisms that cover this planet take incredibly diverse forms, the process of natural selection that underlies it all is driven by the simple arithmetic of energy expended and expended. Being warm-blooded, humans and all other mammals can maintain their body temperature inside. While this allows mammals to be more active than their reptilian counterparts, this active metabolism is also energy consuming. The cheetah is the world’s fastest land mammal, but proper care of this body means it eats over five pounds of meat a day.

Reptiles can afford to be more energy efficient because they use an external power source. Natural heat and light keep them active and moving, and snakes can perform at optimal effectiveness between 80 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit. Their lower metabolism means they need to eat less food altogether, and the average reptile only needs 20-25% of the nutrient intake of a mammal. It’s an effective way to succeed because it allows them to thrive even when the opportunities for more deadly yet also more energy-dependent mammalian predators may not be sustainable. It also allows them to survive cold weather effectively without incurring the expense of maintaining their body heat or developing specialized behaviors like hibernation.

How snakes digest their prey

Being able to incapacitate their prey with a single venomous bite and then swallow it whole often allows these ambush predators to both hunt and eat—but digesting their meal—with very little expenditure of energy is a very expensive process. The Burmese python is an extreme but representative example. Once a fresh meal is carried into the esophagus and the chemical process of breakdown begins in the snake’s stomach, that snake’s body begins to mutate wildly. Their metabolism speeds up to 44 times its original rate, and their organs can grow up to twice as large to maximize the efficiency of the digestive process. This isn’t the norm, but it’s impressive considering most snake species typically eat a quarter of their body weight in a single sitting. Pythons are particularly voracious eaters, and some pythons have been known to eat up to 95% of their body weight.

Humans may need three decent meals a day, but a snake can just eat once and then take a long nap while it digests it. The actual digestion process can vary depending on the size of the snake, the ambient temperature, the size of the meal, or several other conditions. Shorter meals can take three days, but a giant snake like an anaconda can take weeks to fully digest a larger meal like a deer.

Longer and more difficult digestive processes harbor dangers. Larger game is more likely to have horns, fangs, or claws that can pierce an internal organ and kill the snake. They need exposure to heat to properly digest, but they’re also vulnerable targets while they’re stuffed with their meal. And while the digestive acids used are strong, a snake’s organs are in a race with their prey. If it can’t dissolve the prey faster than the corpse can decompose, the snakemeal could poison them, grow in their stomachs, or set off a gas explosion. It can be a costly risk, but a large meal dramatically increases the time a snake can go without food.

The Average Snake’s Diet

Snakes can sometimes go for weeks without food. iStock.com/mjf795

How often and how much food the average snake needs can vary widely between different species. Researchers have identified both common and rare feeders, with the latter displaying the behavior of ball pythons, which have been shown to grow their organs to aid in digestion. Baby snakes and gluttons can eat about twice a week, while infrequent eaters can easily go several weeks without food. In extreme cases, it can take weeks for the last meal to be digested at all.

As reptiles, snakes are also capable of reaching a state called brumation, which allows them to sink into a deep torpor during the colder months. It can be a crucial survival technique when prey is scarce and difficult to track—and with a lack of sunlight and heat, most snakes are ill-equipped to hunt anyway. Corn snakes are known to go two to three months without food during breeding, but many species periodically pause during longer breeding seasons to forage for new food.

How long snakes can go without food

A baby snake begins to starve seriously after about a week without food—and once that baby grows into an adult, members of most snake species can get along comfortably for at least two to three weeks. But the time it takes for a snake to starve can vary significantly by species. Smaller snakes tend to feed more frequently than larger ones, but species like the ball python can go up to two years without food. With no internal metabolism to deal with, the energy cost of doing nothing is much less than that of a comparable mammal.

However, science is only just beginning to uncover the full survival capabilities of snakes. A study looking at the tactics snakes use when they’re about to starve took different species of snakes and observed their behavior when they weren’t fed for six months. In addition to their naturally low energy requirements, three different snake species demonstrated the ability to lower their metabolism by an additional 70%. It’s an intriguing, but still uncertain, look at how these creatures function and how they may be able to survive without food for even longer than we think possible.

Next: Do butterflies drink blood? And 13 more surprising facts about butterflies