How To Build A Root Cellar Storm Shelter? The 118 Detailed Answer

In this article, we talk about 5 essential things to include in a root cellar design, as well as 10 tips for fruit and veg storage. There’s also a printable storage guide for over 30 types of fruit and veg, and links to additional information at the end of the post.

A root cellar is a great and inexpensive way to store food—not just root vegetables, but other fresh produce as well. They require little to no power and very little maintenance.

A root cellar is a must-have for anyone planning to grow enough food to sustain their family through the winter season. Most root cellars are underground or at least partially underground to allow for a longer shelf life for the products.

A root cellar can be anything from a trash can buried in the ground to a purpose-built space. The concept of these storage sites is simple: at certain depths, temperatures and humidity remain constant despite above-ground weather conditions.

This raises the question: How deep does a root cellar have to be?

On average, a root cellar should be 3 m deep. However, in certain spots where the ground is dry or sandy, it may be necessary to dig deeper as the temperature here is stable at 0-4.5°C.

However, the depth of a root cellar will be different in a cold climate. Here it is necessary to be at least partly below the permafrost level, while in a warmer climate it is necessary to reach a level where the temperature level is stable and plants can protect from the heat.

Consequently, the depth of a basement in a cold climate differs from that of a basement in a warm climate.

The location of the basement

Many things should be considered before attempting to build a root cellar. Don’t think that it’s just a matter of grabbing a spade and digging a hole that’s 10 feet deep. Taking various considerations into account could affect how deep the basement needs to be.

When digging, we look for the right level that naturally maintains an even temperature. Locating the frost line is essential as it ensures that the basement is at least partially below this line in order for it to function properly.

Most root cellars are dug into a hillside or on the side of the house that is coolest. For most, this will be on the north side. Potentially, the basement does not need to be as deep on the north side as it is on the south side.

In some northern states, it is best to position the basement on the south side of the property. In this location we use the sun to keep the temperature in the root cellar from dropping too low and may not need to be that low.

The type of soil

The type of soil on a property has a major impact on how deep the basement needs to be due to two natural characteristics:

heat capacity. This is the amount of heat that can be added to or removed from the ground before it changes temperature.

This is the amount of heat that can be added to or removed from the ground before it changes temperature. thermal conductivity. This is a level that measures how well a floor allows for heat transfer.

Looser, sandy, or loamy soils are less effective at retaining heat compared to firmer soils like clay. Consequently, a root cellar in this soil type must be deeper than in other soil types.

Wet soils are not as affected by temperature fluctuations as dry soils. Consequently, saturated soil maintains a stable temperature more efficiently than dry soil. A root cellar does not need to be that deep in this type of soil.

It’s important to remember that soil types can be wildly different in very narrow spaces. Therefore, the depth that the basement needs to be can be different in places that are fairly close together.

Dig near water sources

If you’ve ever gone fishing on a hot day and put your beer in the cold running water, you know the cooling effect of the water. I’ve seen root cellars built near streams and streams. Some have also incorporated water flow through the basement itself.

While this sounds perfect, digging to any depth near flowing water can be very problematic for most people as the water level may prevent the correct depth from being reached.

Is digging necessary?

We’ve seen that by digging about 10 feet into the ground, we can create a space that will keep our food fresh and edible for a long time. However, is there a way to create such a facility without digging in the ground?

Utilizing basements and existing outbuildings could eliminate the need to dig to any desired depth as these can easily be adjusted to create a root cellar.

Find the perfect depth

Research is key to determining exactly how deep a root cellar needs to be in any given location. Try digging a small test hole and burying a sensor to monitor temperature and humidity.

Monitoring the readings over a period of time will determine if the depth is sufficient to create the right conditions.

Monitoring the temperature is time well spent as a depth of 5 feet can be sufficient, it would be a shame to dig 10 feet deep when not necessary.

Conclusion

A root cellar uses the tried and tested method of utilizing stable temperatures and humidity that can be found by creating an underground storage facility. A root cellar is a natural refrigerator in which food can be stored for as long as possible.

Existing basements or outbuildings can be modified to make them fit for purpose. However, the best option for creating a root cellar is to dig into the ground to create a purpose-built camp.

How deep the root cellar should be depends on several factors, some of which may be out of your control.

Location is one such factor, as different climate zones make for different air and soil temperatures. Higher temperatures require a deeper basement.

The type of soil on the property also affects how deep we need to dig. Different types of soil have different properties of heat capacity and thermal conductivity. A root cellar in dry, sandy soil must be deeper than one in wet soil.

Although 10 feet (3 meters) is the recommended depth to create an efficient root cellar, in some areas you may not need to dig that deep.

A modern home dweller keeps garden crops fresh through the winter using ancient techniques and a basement root cellar.

Root Cellar How-To Wisdom

“Preserve everything” is the homesteader’s mantra during the months of plenty. Traditionally, this was the only way to feed themselves during the winter. Even today you can see women farmers working in the stove, canning their precious peaches, drying their cherry harvest in the sun or bundling herbs to dry. But perhaps the easiest way to prepare for winter is to store the produce in a refrigerated root cellar.

Even for a backyard gardener, this can be a great way to transport a surplus of root vegetables with very little planning or prep work. Honestly, throwing a ton of apples in the basement is a lot easier than canning all that fruit. This isn’t lazy homesteading – it’s smart homesteading.

your vegetables

Certain plants are better suited to root cellar storage and winter consumption than others. Plants like potatoes, onions, shallots, turnips, garlic, squash, carrots, cabbage, parsnips, and turnips top the list. Among these plants, there are certain species that store very well, so select varieties that are good for long-term storage if you plan to explore this route.

I remember being young and venturing into my grandfather’s root cellar. It was in the basement of his home, built sometime in the 1940s when root storage was still a regular practice. His was lined with shelves of fruit and veg, bulbs and canned goods. Heavy cobwebs hung from the ceiling and the smell of damp earth hung in the air. I hated going there because – hello! – Cobwebs and dark, damp basements are super scary for a 6-year-old. But now that we have a big root cellar of our own, I can’t wait to startle my own kids with the same memories. (I’m such a good mom.)

The Root Cellar

If you’re aiming for the same or can only put up a bumper crop this year, the following tips can help with your own root cellar. Storage principles may vary slightly from harvest to harvest, but for simplicity we’ll focus on the basics:

keep it cool

The idea of ​​root cellar storage is to keep the produce in a cool, humid environment, much like a refrigerator. Before refrigerators existed, this was how people kept many of their produce from decomposing too quickly. Ideally, the root cellar keeps the products at an average of 52 degrees.

keep it moist

Air that is too dry in the root cellar removes moisture from the goods and leads to shriveled goods too quickly. To prevent this, keep the humidity around 90 percent. Yes, that’s quite high. But a true root cellar will have a soil that naturally holds moisture and keeps the humidity elevated. Gently wetting the soil can be a great way to increase humidity. You can also place damp towels over the fruit baskets to keep the air in good humidity.

Keep it dark

Produce bearings much better away from direct sunlight which will quickly degrade them. Sunlight also stimulates the roots to send out shoots, making the food inedible. For optimal storage, root cellars should be windowless; If your window has windows, make sure they are sealed and well covered.

This essay is from Shaye Elliott’s Welcome to the Farm: How-To Wisdom from the Elliott Homestead. A witty and personal guide to country living, available wherever books are sold. This story appeared in Country Woman Magazine.

A good root cellar design requires two 4 inch diameter vent pipes to control the internal temperature and allow excess moisture and gases to escape. One pipe should reach floor level in the basement while the other should end near the ceiling.

The cool, humid, and dark conditions of a root cellar make it the perfect place to keep many fruits and vegetables crisp and delicious for weeks – even months. And while there are countless ways to store vegetables, our innovative root cellar plans show you how to build a root cellar by modifying a new precast concrete septic tank. If you follow the plans, cut an entrance, install a door, add a pair of vent pipes, and cover the tank with soil to bring an old-fashioned, walk-in basement into your modern living.

Choose a concrete septic tank

You will want to purchase an unused septic tank for this root cellar design, but seek a quote to avoid paying full price. A percentage of all prefabricated concrete septic tanks end up with small manufacturing defects that prohibit their use for wastewater treatment. Suppliers sometimes offer discounts on these faulty tanks. As long as the tank is solid and intact, a chipped edge or patchable hole will not prevent it from being a root cellar. They don’t require plastic fittings or waste water filters found in most septic tanks, so ask the supplier to remove these prior to delivery.

Tank size is another detail to consider when planning how to build a root cellar out of a septic tank. Septic tank capacity is measured in gallons, with different models being larger or shorter. While you might be tempted to buy a 1,000- or 1,200-gallon tank because they’re common, you’ll get more food storage and headroom with a tank that’s 1,500 gallons or larger. Standard 1,500 gallon tanks are typically about 5 1/2 feet wide, 5 1/2 feet high, and 10 feet long, while a 2,500 gallon tank offers over 6 feet of internal height. Do not choose a low profile tank as it is far too short to work in. Prices for new, undamaged 1,500-gallon tanks start at around $1,100, and 2,500-gallon models can be found for as little as $1,600. Damaged tank discounts can be as high as 50 percent.

Most septic tanks have an interior bulkhead that must be opened up or removed to build from these basic basement plans. Try to find a tank without a divider or ask your supplier to remove it before delivery. You can also punch through the divider yourself as part of the doorway cutting process.

Best sites for root cellar

The perfect location for a root cellar is embedded in an existing soil bank in a well-drained spot 10 to 20 feet from your home. Ideally, the door should face north to keep out the heat of the sun. You are indeed lucky to have all of these conditions and most people have to change their websites. Expect to pay $50 to $100 an hour for a backhoe and operator to excavate your job site for three or four hours.

Spread a 1-foot-deep layer of three-quarter inch diameter gravel under the excavated tank site and proposed entrance to support foot and wheelbarrow traffic. Gravel moves easily to create a level surface for your tank. Suppliers usually offer a truck mounted crane delivery service to drop off the tank anywhere. Check the tank with a 48 inch level after the boom truck driver put it in place. If the tank isn’t level, have the driver raise the tank so you can get a rake underneath to move the gravel. Set, check, adjust and replace the tank until it is flat and level.

Install a door and air vents

The tank should be in its final position before cutting the doorway as removing concrete could weaken the tank enough to damage it if moved again. Use a spirit level and pencil to mark a rough opening at the end opposite the drain pipe hole. Place the bottom of the door 4 inches off the ground to keep dirt and rainwater out of the basement.

A concrete cut-off saw is the tool of choice for making a doorway (see Concrete Cutting sidebar below). Set up a large work platform a few feet below the top of the tank, don eye and hearing protection, and recruit a second pair of hands to hold the rock saw from above as you move along the top horizontal cut line. Next, make the two vertical cuts and then tackle the horizontal cut across the floor. Leave a small amount of concrete uncut in the top corners to hold the slab in place until you’re ready to pound it into the tank with a sledgehammer. Repeat this process to remove the inner divider if your tank still has one.

You can build your own root basement door out of wood, but it will be difficult to seal it well. Consider using an insulated steel front door curtained in a frame. Steel exterior doors provide exceptional seals. Choose one without a window as darkness is essential for maximizing product shelf life.

A good root cellar design requires two 4 inch diameter vent pipes to control the internal temperature and allow excess moisture and gases to escape. (For advice on using root cellar vents, see Root Cellar Basics.) One pipe should reach the basement floor while the other should end near the ceiling. This difference in height promotes air circulation. All septic tanks have a hole in one end for a 4-inch pipe suitable for a ceiling vent, but for the longer vent that goes to the floor, you’ll need to drill a hole elsewhere — directly behind the door is best. While you’re at it, drill a 4-inch drainage hole in the soil so you can hose down your root canal at the end of the season.

Finish and backfill the roof

The tops of concrete septic tanks have access hatches that must be sealed. Apply a liberal bead of polyurethane sealant around the perimeter of the hatch openings and close the hatches for the final time. Next, use a hand grinder to cut off the protruding metal handles on the hatches. Now that the tank is flat on top you need to put in a watertight barrier to prevent leaks in the roof. Use a heavy-duty, self-adhesive water and ice sealant that can be used as a roof underlay. The best shields are thick and have an adhesive backing – my favorite products are the Blueskin Adhesive Water and Ice Barrier and the Grace Water and Ice Shield. Attach two layers of shielding that extend across the top in overlapping strips and fold the sides 4 inches lower than the joint where the top and sides of the tank meet.

Since your tank will be plugged into the ground, you will need a secure method of retaining the soil at the entrance. The drawings in the slideshow illustrate how to build a 6×6 root cellar retaining wall with a lintel across the top to prevent infill soil from falling over the door. See How to Build a Retaining Wall With Crossties for instructions on building a wooden retaining wall anchored with T-tie ties. Another option is to build a retaining wall of interlocking concrete blocks. Retaining walls ensure the best basement performance in cold climates by maximizing ground contact on either side of the door, and the soil’s insulation factor stabilizes the temperature in a root basement, making it suitable for vegetable storage.

If your climate doesn’t experience severe winters, a simpler alternative is to heap up the soil on either side of the door as steeply as possible, exposing part of the front wall in the process. Instead of building a tall retaining wall, you could install horizontal layers of geogrid (a polymeric material used to reinforce the ground) in the ground while padding around the door, building as steep a slope as possible.

Get soil in and spread it around the sides and top of your tank. Since backfilling by hand is hard work, you’ll probably want to hire the excavator and driver for a few more hours. Sandy, light soil is best for filling because it reduces soil pressure on the sides and top of the tank, drains better, and is easier to shape and contour. Aim for a 1 to 2 foot layer of soil on the roof.

Plant grass on the filled-in soil, build shelves and bins in your basement (learn how to build wooden storage shelves on our DIY blog), load them with your healthy homegrown foods — and you’re done with those root basement plans. Money can’t buy the sense of security and contentment you get from a good winter meal protected by your own root cellar.

cutting concrete

These root cellar plans require you to cut through the walls of concrete septic tanks. This requires renting or borrowing a gas-powered masonry cut-off saw that rotates a 14-inch diameter diamond wheel to open the door and an electric hammer drill with a 4-inch carbide bit to drill the vent and drain holes. Be sure to use a saw that accepts a garden hose, as the water injection will tame the dust clouds. The hammer drill with drill bit does not require any water. Septic tanks usually have rebar embedded in the concrete, so ask for a core drill and masonry blade that can handle metal.

Contributing Editor Steve Maxwell is a skilled builder and mason who stores his garden products underground in Ontario, Canada. Find his homesteading advice at RealRuralLife.com. Maxwell is co-author of The Complete Root Cellar Book, available through April 30, 2014 at a 25 percent discount at the MOTHER EARTH NEWS Store.

We harvested our potatoes planted in March 21 days ago and are in the process of sorting them and managing the conditions in our root cellar to ripen the potatoes and help them store well.

Here are our Root Cellar Warden instructions:

Before harvesting potatoes, leave the cellar open for a few days to warm up to the temperature of the potatoes (to reduce condensation and rot). Collect boxes. We store our potatoes in open plastic crates on plastic pallets which allow for ventilation but no rotting or fungal spores. Like most root vegetables, potatoes store better if they are not washed before storage. In the summer, we stack the crates of harvested potatoes under a tree near the basement the first night to lose some heat. At dusk we cover them with a tarp to keep out dew and keep them dry. The next day at 6 or 7 we put the boxes in the basement and close the door. Store in a damp, completely dark basement, avoiding excessive moisture. After harvest, the potatoes need a surprisingly warm temperature of 15-25°C (60-75°F) with good ventilation for a two-week ripening period. This allows the skins to harden, heal cut surfaces, and convert some of the sugars into more storable starch. Wounds will not heal below 50F (10C). In June/July, after picking the March potatoes, we leave the door open almost every night for a week, then every other night, and close it early in the morning. After the Oct/Nov harvest of the potatoes planted in June, we leave the door open every 2 to 3 days on balmy nights or days and close it later. (It’s easier to refrigerate the cellar in the fall.) In addition to refrigeration to a good storage temperature, the root cellar needs 6-9 hours of ventilation every 2-3 days for the 2 weeks between harvest and sorting. The potatoes are still “alive” and will breathe and heat up if left closed. If not aerated, the potatoes will get black hearts. This is a dark, hard, black nodule of dead cells in the center of the potato. Ventilate when temperature is 0-20 degrees Fahrenheit (0-11 degrees Celsius) cooler than target: ventilate during the day when nights are too cold and days are balmy; Ventilate at night when nights are mild and days are too warm. Try to avoid letting the basement cool down and then warm up. This will sprout the potatoes. Ventilate more if it is humid there. After two weeks, the potatoes must be sorted to remove those used first and those that have been composted, and to keep the varieties separate. We usually take turns bringing the crates up the basement stairs. We collect buckets, rags, gloves. It’s important to do this 14–21 days after harvest and wait no longer to minimize the spread of rot. We find that if we do that one sort after two weeks, we don’t have to check it afterwards – pretty much anything that should rot has already rotted. Very little additional rot occurs after a two week curing and sorting. If left unsorted for longer, rot will spread. If we sort too early, we’ll miss some potatoes with tiny bad spots and need a second sort. Re-stack the crates in the basement, remembering to leave an air space between the crates and the walls. For weeks 2-4, the temperature target is 10°C (50°F), ventilation is required about once a week. After the 4th week, airing is no longer necessary to exchange air because the potatoes are now dormant. We aim to cool the basement whenever a cool, mild night or day is forecast, preferably in late fall to 40-45F (5-7C) and as close as possible in summer. (Potatoes can be stored at 60-75F (15-25C) for up to six weeks in the summer — but they will germinate at higher temperatures.) Avoid sharp temperature swings, as the stress can cause “physiological aging,” among other things, the tends to do Potatoes to sprout. In cool temperatures, continue to ventilate as needed to keep the basement in the ideal temperature range. Avoid storing well below 5°C, as these low temperatures will cause some of the starch in the potatoes to turn into sugar. This gives the potatoes an odd flavor and causes them to turn black when roasted. Potatoes that have become sweet can be restored to their normal flavor by holding them at around 70°F/21°C for a week or two before using. With a good earth cellar, potatoes can be stored for 5-8 months. As a sustainable alternative to refrigerated or electrically refrigerated storage for plants that require cool, humid conditions, traditional root cellars are a good option.

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Requirements for the rest period of potatoes

We’re studying the resting requirements of potatoes to store ours so they don’t sprout when we don’t want them to! So if you have any information about it, please leave a comment

What I know about dormancy so far is that post-harvest potatoes need a dormancy period of 4-8 weeks before they germinate. So if you plan on digging up an early crop and immediately transplanting some of the potatoes for a later crop, keep that in mind. Bypass this problem by storing them in the fridge for 16 days and then placing them in the light for 2 weeks. The company of apples, bananas, or onions will help them germinate by releasing ethylene.

To avoid sprouting, keep the potatoes below 10ºC for more than a month after harvest, avoid excessive humidity and avoid “physiological aging” of the potatoes, which is caused, among other things, by stress with fluctuating temperatures.

Germination conditions for potatoes

The growth rate of sprouts on potatoes is directly related to degree days above 40°F/5°C. So if you store potatoes above 40°F (5°C) (for the best flavor) there is clearly a risk that they will eventually start to sprout. If sprouts develop when potatoes are eaten, it’s a good idea to rub off the sprouts as soon as possible, as the sprouting process affects the flavor and makes them just as sweet as low temperatures.

If you’re storing potatoes for seed and have good control over the temperature of your basement, you can manipulate conditions somewhat to get the best yields. The “physiological age” of the seed tubers influences both the early yield and the final yield. Cold storage conditions – below 40°F (5°C) will keep the seeds “young” resulting in the crop taking longer to mature. Avoid planting physiologically “young” seed potatoes unless you harvest later than usual (or have a lower yield if you finish the harvest by mowing). “Old” seed gives an earlier harvest but perhaps a lower final yield. If planting in spring for an early final harvest, “age” your seed potatoes by storing them at 50°F (10°C) for up to two weeks before planting, then hardening at a lower temperature to reduce thermal shock, when they hit the ground. “Middle aged” tubers stored at 40-50F (5-10C) will produce the highest crop yields. When we buy seed potatoes we have no control over storage conditions before we get them, and probably no information either. The physiological age can be estimated from the length of the longest shoots on the tubers. The best information I have found on storing and sprouting potatoes is in a UK book: The Complete Know and Grow Vegetables by Bleasdale, Slater and others.

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I wrote an article about growing potatoes for Growing for Market magazine.

I also wrote about root cellars for potatoes and other vegetables in November 2008 in Sustainable Market Farming and Growing for Market magazines.

Storage is not a one-size-fits-all project. Products for storage may need to be frozen, chilled, cool, warm, moist, or dry. Refrigerators and the ingenious CoolBot have their place. Mike and Nancy Bubel have identified five distinct storage needs in their excellent book, Root Cellaring. Since the publication of her book, additional evidence suggests that potatoes are better stored at 40-50F (5-10C) than 32-40F (0-5C) and that cucumbers and eggplants, like peppers, do better above 45F (7C). .

ethylene. Ripe fruit and actively growing plants (e.g. germinating potatoes) give off ethylene which then promotes further ripening or germination. Ethylene-producing crops need to be stored separately from ethylene-sensitive crops — vegetables you don’t want to germinate, like onions and potatoes.

Other vegetables in the basement. Most other root crops can also be stored in a root cellar. Some pack the unwashed vegetables in boxes with sand, wood ash, sawdust or wood shavings. Perforated plastic bags are a modern alternative. Whole pepper plants can be hung upside down in the basement, as can overhead vegetables such as cabbage. Or cabbage can be transplanted side by side in boxes or tubs of soil. Celery and leeks can also be stored in the same way by transplanting. I’m more of a fan of choosing hardy leeks and leaving them outside in the garden for the winter, but this is zone 7 and people in places with really deep snow or very cold winters might laugh ruefully at that suggestion.

root cellar construction

Mike and Nancy Bubel Root Cellaring includes great designs and instructions for excavated root cellars, including a two-room version for storing different plants at different temperatures and humidity levels. Excavated root cellars are not the only option, but they have advantages because the earth insulates the cellar. Because the ground is heavy, underground basements must be built strong and have good drainage to prevent water from pooling, freezing in winter and cracking the walls. The book includes details on site design, working with concrete blocks, mixing concrete, making a trussed roof and drainage.

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This is the title of my latest post on the Mother Earth News Organic Gardening Blog. In my previous post I wrote general topics for starting seeds in hot weather. This time I have listed 20 specific tricks under categories like seed storage, sowing seeds indoors, sowing seeds outdoors, watering, soaking seeds, pre-germination and liquid sowing.

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Many vegetables and fruits can be stored in a root cellar, an old-fashioned food preservation method that we should all embrace.

Root cellars are a low-maintenance method of food preservation that doesn’t require any extra work on your part. Storing fruit and vegetables in a root cellar helps preserve freshness in the least labor intensive way possible.

Doesn’t that sound great?

One thing to know is that you want to store ONLY the freshest and best quality food possible, and it needs to be handled with care. This rule applies to bulk vegetables bought at a farmer’s market or dug up from your garden. Vegetables and fruit with bruises or rotten spots do not earn points in the Root Cellar.

Another thing is that storing vegetables in the root cellar requires certain temperature and humidity requirements. I mean, you don’t have to be strict about these conditions, but being close will help preserve the veggies.

What is a root cellar?

A root cellar is any storage location that takes advantage of the soil’s natural cooling, insulating, and moisturizing properties. It is one of the longest-tested storage methods.

Not every vegetable can be stored well in a root cellar!

In general, root vegetables like carrots, potatoes, beets, and parsnips store best in a root cellar, but it works well for hardy fruits, too. It is the ideal environment for storing home preserved or fermented foods, as well as the bulbs of perennial flowers.

If you’re making homemade wine or beer, a root cellar is a great storage option too!

Requirements for the root cellar

Whether you want to make sure your current root cellar is up to par, or you want to create a new root cellar, you’ll want to know what classifies as a true root cellar.

It must be able to maintain a temperature of 32 to 40 degrees F and a humidity of 85-95%. That’s why it won’t always work in warm climates.

Root cellars cannot be built in places with high water tables or a septic tank nearby.

It should be easily accessible.

The design should allow you to control humidity, temperature, ventilation and drainage.

How long do vegetables keep in the root cellar?

The cool, humid environment of a root cellar keeps most foods longer than other storage methods. It depends a lot on what plants you store, but they last anywhere from two to nine months, with an average of four to six months.

Their shelf life decreases when temperature or humidity levels drop out of the ideal range.

13 Cellar Vegetables and Fruits

1. Cabbage

You may be surprised to know that you can store leafy greens in a root cellar. Cabbage is the most popular choice.

Don’t worry about cleaning your cabbage. Ideally, let the roots attach and plant them back into the soil in the root cellar. The easiest way to do this is in a large basin, such as a trash can.

Another option is to wrap each cabbage individually and place them on a shelf, leaving a few inches between each head. Most importantly, you don’t want to just leave the cabbage out in the open, as the smell will spread through the entire root cellar and affect the flavors of the celery, apples, and pears.

If that’s not an option, that’s okay too! Remove the outer leaves and store the cabbages on a slatted rack in your root cellar. Members of the cabbage family prefer cold temperatures and high humidity for longest storage, typically around 32-40 degrees with 90% humidity!

Red cabbage varieties store better than green cabbage, and for long-term storage, pick a late cabbage variety.

Average shelf life – 3 to 4 months depending on the variety

See also: Step-by-step instructions: Freezing fresh heads of cabbage

2. Apples

Storing apples in a root cellar can be a little tricky, as they require cold temperatures of around 32 to 40 degrees with 90 to 95 percent humidity.

Older apple varieties perform better than newer apple varieties, and tart apples keep better than sweet apples. Some of the best apples for root cellar storage are:

Arkansas Black

criteria

Honey crispy

pink woman

Rome beauty

You only want to store ripe, unblemished apples and wrap each one individually in newspaper. Then store the wrapped apples in a wooden apple crate or cardboard box. It’s best to wrap each apple individually – yes, that’s a bit of work – and place them in a wooden apple crate.

Average shelf life – 2 to 7 months depending on the variety.

Also see: 23 early apple varieties for your backyard orchard

3. Potatoes

After the potato plants die, it’s time to dig them up. Potatoes need to cure in a dark place at 45 to 60 degrees F for 10 to 14 days.

Once cured, potatoes can be stored in 38 to 40°F and humid conditions with humidity between 80% and 90%.

By storing them in colder temperatures, the potatoes will taste sweeter and warmer temperatures will encourage sprouting. Make sure you don’t store with ethylene releasing plants.

They should be stored in sand, sawdust or moss in complete darkness. Containers work well!

Average shelf life: 4 to 6 months

4. Sweet potatoes

Most root crops are an obvious choice for root cellars. Harvest sweet potatoes in late fall and pick only the undamaged, unblemished potatoes for long-term storage.

Remove excess dirt and cure at temperatures between 80 and 85 degrees F for 5 to 10 days in high humidity.

Once cured, move the sweet potatoes to a dry storage area with temperatures no lower than 55°F and dry conditions with humidity between 60% and 70%. Make sure you store the sweet potatoes in a well-ventilated box.

Average shelf life – 2 to 3 months

5. Leek

Leeks belong to the onion family and cope well with storage in the root cellar. First, lay a heavy layer of mulch in your garden until a hard freeze sets in. Then it’s time to dig up the leeks and keep them intact. Some gardeners actually prefer to leave the leeks in the garden with just a few inches of mulch.

Place the leeks in a deep bucket for storage. Store them upright in damp sand or soil. Leeks thrive best when stored in a cold temperature of between 32 and 40 degrees F and a high humidity of around 90 to 95 percent.

Average shelf life – 3 to 4 months.

6. Carrots

Carrots taste best if you leave them in the ground after a few frost spots. The ideal is to keep them in the garden for as long as possible. You can put some straw over it in the garden.

You’ll want to pull them up before the ground freezes – trust me. Have you ever tried to pull carrots out of the frozen ground? This is not fun.

Carrots need to be stored in their root cellar at 33 to 40°F and high humidity between 90 and 95%.

Dig them up before the ground freezes, then remove the tops near the carrots. The tips, called fronds, draw moisture and nutrients from the carrot that are necessary for crop survival in storage. Then place your carrots in a box of damp sand or peat moss.

Average shelf life – 4 to 6 months or more!

7. Beets

Beets are root crops that can be stored well in cold temperatures between 32 and 40 degrees and high humidity between 90 and 95%. In dry weather, harvest the beets when the roots are about 2 inches in diameter.

Dig up the beets, trimming off the tops but making sure you stay 1 to 2 inches from the root top. The root tip must remain intact!

After harvest, brush off loose soil and layer the beets in moist sand, sawdust, or peat moss.

Store them in either a plastic container with a tight lid or in a wooden box. When storing them, sort them by size, using the smallest beets first. The larger the beets, the longer they are stored.

Most importantly, don’t let the beets touch each other, as this increases the spoilage rate.

Average shelf life – 3 to 5 months

8. Pears

Pears are similar to apples and need cold temperatures to store in a root cellar. Their ideal temperatures range from 33 to 40 degrees F with humid humidity conditions between 80 and 90%.

Each pear must be wrapped in newspaper and then stored in a cardboard or wooden box with plastic. They are best stored on the lowest shelves in the root cellar. Make sure you only store undamaged fruit.

Storing pears in the root cellar is a bit difficult as they are temperature sensitive and are stored at the lowest temperatures. Try to keep them away from vegetables that emit ethylene gas and try to consume them before two months.

Average shelf life: 2 to 3 months

9. Parsnips

Another of the best root cellar vegetables. They must be stored at temperatures between 33 and 40 degrees F and high humidity between 90 and 95%.

Parsnips, like carrots, can be left under a layer of mulch in the garden. The problem with this is that parsnips don’t like the freeze and thaw cycles that naturally occur when left in the garden beds. Storing parsnips in a root cellar is a good choice.

All you have to do is cut off the tops and layer them in a box of damp sand or peat.

Average shelf life: 1 to 2 months

10. Garlic

When it’s time to harvest the garlic, dig up the heads and brush off the loose soil. Be careful with the garlic bulbs!

Garlic heads need to harden in a well-ventilated place for 10 to 14 days. The onions should not get wet or sunburn. Once cured, braid the tips together and hang. You can also cut off the tops and store the onions in mesh bags.

To prolong the life of your garlic, always store it in dry conditions. Otherwise they start to sprout. Garlic thrives best at temperatures between 40 and 50°F with 60 to 70% humidity. Remember that softneck varieties store better than hardneck!

Average shelf life – 5 to 8 months

11. Onions

Onions will store for months in a root cellar under the right conditions. First, make sure you place the harvested onions on newspaper, colander, or hardware.

Store them in a dry, well-ventilated place away from sunlight. Cure for 10 to 14 days until the skins are papery and the roots are dry.

Then cut 1 inch above the onion and store in vented containers. A few options you might like are mesh bags, paper shopping bags, or tights! Don’t store onions in plastic bags or storage containers because they need to breathe.

Average shelf life – 5 to 8 months

12. Pumpkins

Years ago, pioneers and homesteaders stored pumpkins for the whole winter. They were for more than just cake!

Harvest your squashes before the first frost, leaving at least an inch or more of the stem intact. Stemless pumpkins have an increased risk of spoilage.

Cure at 80 to 85 degrees F for 10 days. Pumpkins need to be stored dry, with temperatures around 40 to 50°F and humidity between 60 and 70%. Use this procedure to store almost any squash.

Average shelf life – 5 to 6 months

13. Swedes

Another root crop that stores well in root cellars is turnips. They store just like carrots and parsnips.

Store turnips in cold temperatures between 33 and 40 degrees F with humidity between 90 and 95 percent.

Place them in a box of damp sand. The sand needs to stay wet for them to last as long as possible. More and more people are choosing to store swedes outside because they give off an unpleasant smell.

Average shelf life – 2 to 4 months

7 tips for storing root cellar vegetables

You’ve spent months growing these vegetables in your garden, so you want to make sure you’re storing your harvest well. Here are some tips to make root cellar storage the best experience!

Stock up on the cellar late in the season and consider chilling the fruit and veg in the fridge before placing them in the cellar. Various types of vegetables such as potatoes, winter squash, onions and pumpkins have to be cured before being placed in a root cellar. Curing takes place at warm temperatures. Do not wash off the loose dirt; shake off! You shouldn’t expose the root cellar vegetables and fruits to too much moisture, otherwise it will encourage rot. Be sure to handle your veggies with care; Bruising leads to decomposition. Some fruits breathe and emit ethylene gas, such as apples and pears. These fruits need to be wrapped in paper to slow spoilage. Try to place the vegetables on the shelves. If they are too close together, they will generate heat and cause spoilage. Check your root cellar vegetables regularly and remove them immediately if there are signs of rot. The gases cause the other vegetables and fruits to rot faster.

Does a root cellar need ventilation?

Yes, root cellars need ventilation. The lack of proper ventilation is one of the biggest mistakes people make when designing a root cellar, and without it, the food you store will spoil.

Many vegetables produce and release ethylene gas, which speeds up the ripening process and affects neighboring produce. Ventilation allows some of these gases to escape and the moisture must have a way to escape. Otherwise mold and mold stains will develop!

Try a root cellar

Many people have no idea that root cellars can be used to store so many items. Whether you have a root cellar attached to your home or building one separately, they can be a great way to store fruits and vegetables long-term.

Try growing a few veggies this year to store in a root cellar!

What can a root cellar do for you? It can give you fresh endive in December; hearty Chinese cabbage in January; juicy apples in February; crisp carrots in March; and strong potatoes in April.

The space between the shelves and walls allows fresh air to circulate around the goods, preventing the goods from becoming moldy.

What can a root cellar do for you? It can give you fresh endive in December; hearty Chinese cabbage in January; juicy apples in February; crisp carrots in March; and strong potatoes in April.

Root cellars are as useful today as ever. In fact, root cellars in all forms are very contemporary, with the cost of food and processing increasing every year. From our point of view, root cellars, alongside wood heating, bicycles and backyard gardens, are a simple, low-technology way of living well – independently.

The term “root cellar”, as used here, encompasses the whole spectrum of ingenious vegetable-saving techniques, from hillside caves to garden ditches. The traditional root cellar is an underground storage room for vegetables and fruit. Where space and site location permit, these basements are dug into a mound and then lined with brick, stone, or concrete blocks. Traditional are also clay floors or isolated basements – less picturesque but probably more numerous.

What can root cellaring do for you? Very simple: allow you to enjoy fresh endive salad in December; tender, hearty Chinese cabbage in January; juicy apples in February; crisp carrots in March; and bold, unwaxed potatoes in April—all without boiling a jar, blanching a veg, or filling a freezer bag. A root cellar can save you time, money and supplies. As? For starters, our gas and electric bills were lower because I didn’t heat 2-gallon kettles of canning water, crammed less in the freezer, and didn’t have to buy new glass lids or freezer bags.

Storage vegetables don’t have to be limited to the old stocks: carrots, potatoes, and beets. With a really well planned root cellar program, fresh tomatoes, tender dandelion sprouts, nuts, pears, sweet potatoes and even melons can be preserved. Even if you need to buy some produce, you’ll find that prices for stored vegetables are usually lowest in the fall. If squash costs 25 cents a pound on a street stall in October, rest assured it will cost a lot more on the market in January.

More importantly, it is good to be able to take care of yourself, to be equipped for the winter with your own skills and foresight with your own home-grown products. If you like to choose your food carefully and live simply and confidently, root cellaring might be for you.

Basics of rooting

There are three basic requirements that a root cellar should meet. The closer you get to these ideal conditions in your vegetable storage area, the better your vegetables will hold up.

Humidity in the root cellar: High humidity is essential for effective storage in the root cellar. Most root crops and leafy greens do best at a humidity level of 90 to 95 percent. Providing plenty of moisture prevents these foods from shrinking.

You can achieve the required humidity in a root cellar in three ways. First, install a soil floor that will retain more natural moisture than a concrete or stone floor. We recommend spreading gravel on solid ground. This helps keep feet dry when the ground gets really wet. If the storage area needs more moisture, you can add it by sprinkling the gravel with water, which, due to the large surface area, easily evaporates and fills the air with moisture.

Coming to the second way to keep the humidity high: add some water, either by spraying the soil, spreading damp (but not dripping wet) burlap sacks over the produce, or placing pans of water on the root cellar floor. Such measures are often necessary in the fall when you store food for the first time. Basement root cellars are much more likely than buried root cellars to require additional moisture. In very humid areas, root vegetables can be kept uncovered in containers and will remain smooth and firm. However, if your moisture reading falls short of ideal, you may get better results with a third option: pack the vegetables—especially carrots, beets, and parsnips—in damp sawdust, sand, or moss; this reduces surface evaporation.

It’s important to remember that cool air holds less moisture than warm air. A place that is both cold and very humid creates a rather unstable situation. A slight drop in temperature can cause air that has room for a bit more moisture at say 34 degrees Fahrenheit to suddenly become fully saturated at 32 degrees. When this happens you have reached the dew point and the excess water that the air can no longer hold begins to condense on walls, ceilings and even vegetable surfaces. If products get wet, they are more likely to spoil – even at low temperatures. To be on the safe side, buy a hygrometer (a moisture meter) at a hardware store.

Aeration of the root cellar: Basically, air must be admitted, monitored and circulated through a root cellar. Allowing air into the basement (as described below) will help keep the area at the desired low temperature. Equally important, adjusting the air intake helps reduce excess humidity, thereby preventing unwanted condensation. Air – effectively moved – removes both vegetable odors and ethylene gas given off by stored fruit that could otherwise create off-flavors in other foods.

To understand how air can circulate through a root cellar, remember that warm air rises and cool air falls. In a large or tightly closed basement, you need both an air inlet and an air outlet. Supply should be low and output high; Ideally, the two should be on opposite sides of the room for optimal airflow. Cool air enters through the low inlet and warm air is exhausted through the outlet. In a small storage area, or one with many crevices that allow air to enter (e.g. an old stone foundation), a single high-placed vent may be sufficient to dissipate warm air. Always lift the boxes a few inches to allow air to circulate underneath.

Root cellar temperature: your most important consideration. A good root cellar can both borrow cold and hold cold. They borrow cold by burrowing into the ground, where the temperature remains fairly constant at around 52 F well below freezing levels. This works because the temperature deep in the earth is only slowly affected by the ultra-cold surface temperature, giving your underground vegetables an extra layer of protection. You can borrow cold by letting the night air into the basement either through a window or a closable exhaust air pipe.

If you can keep temperatures between 32 and 40 F, you have an excellent storage spot. A temperature range of 40 to 50 degrees still allows for shorter storage of root vegetables and apples and will keep onions and some of the short-lived storage vegetables like peppers, tomatoes and eggplant in good shape for about a month.

In an indoor root cellar, the area near the ceiling is a few degrees warmer than the area near the floor, so you have at least a small difference in conditions that you can take advantage of by placing vegetables according to their different storage needs.

A thermometer is essential for a well-managed root cellar. One with min/max readings will give you a good picture of the type of temperature swings you are working with.

The root cellar for you

The type of root cellar you build or customize will depend on your home layout, the location of your property, and the temperatures and snow cover in your area.

If you have an old house with an unheated basement with a dirt floor, you’re all set. With minor modifications, or in some cases no modifications at all, you have an ideal vegetable cellar. In a house with a heated basement, it is possible to separate an unheated corner for storing vegetables.

If you prefer an outdoor root cellar, you can either dig into a mound or go directly underground and build over the cellar entrance with a bulkhead, patio, or porch. Most outdoor root cellars are dug into a north-facing mound or are underground on the north (coolest) side of the home. Exceptions to this rule can be found in some of the northern states and Canada, where winter temperatures drop well below zero and stay there. Some of the old outdoor root cellars in these areas are built on southern exposures for easier winter access. It’s quite cold in there once winter sets in, although these basements get more sunlight than it seems they should.

If you live in an area where winter temperatures often drop below zero Fahrenheit and snowpack is heavy, you might prefer to climb into an under-porch storage pit rather than shoveling through drifts to get to a root cellar in one to get to the hilltop cave. Many underground root cellars (like the one described below) feature a vestibule or double doors that form an airlock that helps keep warm summer air out of the cellar and also prevents produce from being undone during severe winter weather.

If your winters are mild, with average temperatures well above 30 F, you won’t be able to achieve the most desirable low temperature in your basement for root vegetable storage. These veggies are likely to hold up very well in the garden row, and the warmers like squash, onions, and candies should do well in a cool corner of your home.

Many people opt for an 8-foot by 10-foot space or larger—but few can fill it to the full (a 5-foot by 8-foot space can hold 30 bushels of produce). If you plan to keep buckets of soil to store vegetables like celery, an 8ft x 8ft space should suffice. We recommend using multiple shelves to maximize space. Only use rot-resistant wood and slats for good air circulation. Shelves should also have a 1- to 2-inch bar on the back to keep the edges off the wall.

With a really well-planned root cellar, you can preserve fresh tomatoes, tender dandelion sprouts, nuts, pears and cantaloupes.

An excavated root cellar

As we mentioned earlier, there are many options when it comes to rooting. But if you’re not lucky enough to have an existing usable structure or live in a warm climate where a garden row is a good choice, consider an excavated root cellar.

Buried root cellars work well because they are insulated by the surrounding soil. The ground is a poor conductor of heat, so the temperature of the ground 6 feet below is cool and fairly constant. The natural moisture of the earth helps keep humidity levels high. Since the soil is heavy, an underground root cellar should be built strongly. Also, because frozen, wet soil can expand and crack walls, it’s important to provide drainage around the basement to prevent waterlogged soil from freezing and collapsing into your basement walls. The buried root cellar shown in the image gallery is divided into two parts for a number of reasons: the small vestibule helps insulate the interior space from extremes of heat and cold, and also provides a choice of conditions for your vegetable storage system to be in-tune.

Let’s say you’re lucky enough to have a north-facing hill and you intend to build a buried root cellar into the hill’s slope. You’re ready to go, but how?

Step One: As you’ve probably guessed, your first step is to dig a hole in the hill. You need to remove enough soil to make room for the volume of basement you intend to build. It’s no help to dig a hole much bigger than you really need because all that space needs to be filled back in. Dig deep enough so the footer is below the depth of average frost penetration in your area. Most of the basement is protected by earth. Dig another 2 to 3 feet around the door where the foundation will be most exposed to the cold. Fill in gravel to the foot end.

Step 2: Lay the drain pipe from the floor drains in the basement to the daylight. The soil in the root cellar should be slightly higher than the soil in front of the door so that the water can drain off.

Step Three: Pour the Concrete Base. After the floor in the basement is leveled, make shapes out of 2-by-8 lumber. The footer should be 16 inches wide for a cinder block wall and 8 inches wide for a 4 inch thick poured concrete wall (in other words, twice the width of the wall will be). Technically, of course, the footer will only be 7 ¼ inches deep, since that is the actual measurement of an 8 inch piece these days. Place several rebars in the concrete that was poured over the hollowed out spot on the door. Allow the footer to set for three to seven days before proceeding with the walls.

step four. Start laying concrete blocks.

Since you sensibly planned your basement’s dimensions in multiples of 8 inches (half the length of a standard concrete block with mortar joints), you shouldn’t have any problems here. Leave a gap for a standard door. For vent tubes in side panels, either leave a gap between blocks or knock off a block. Your basement should be between 6 ½ and 8 inches deep.

step five. Make forms to support the poured concrete roof. The roof should be reinforced with crossed and tied rebars as shown in the figure. The bars should be embedded in the bottom half of the poured concrete roof. If they’re too close to the surface, they won’t do much to strengthen the roof. Casting is done directly onto plastic faced ¾ inch plywood supported by joists resting on joists supported by 4 x 4 uprights. You will also need a form that runs around the perimeter of the roof to hold the concrete pavement until it dries and hardens. Make this shape out of 2 x 6 lumber and attach supports at the corners and at least every 4 feet on the sides. Without these supports, the weight of the concrete will likely buckle the formwork and then drip through the gap. Why cover the plywood with plastic? So that water from the concrete mix does not seep and drain, weakening the concrete. A flat roof is the easiest to build; Just remember to insert the exhaust and intake pipes into the slab formwork panel before pouring the concrete for the roof.

step six. Start backfilling around the basement. Tamp the ground lightly but firmly as you walk. If the level of the backfilled soil is still 2 to 3 feet below the projected soil surface elevation on the slope, insert a 4-inch perforated drain pipe that runs the entire back of the basement, curving around both corners and terminating at daylight. The pipe should be resting on a 3-inch bed of gravel with a piece of heavy-duty roofing felt or 6-mil plastic sheeting tucked partially over (but not around) it to prevent mud from clogging it. The pipe should be sloped 1 inch over 8 feet starting from the center back on both sides.

The purpose of this drain pipe is not to keep water out of the basement, but rather to prevent frozen wet soil from expanding pressure on the back wall of the root basement.

Fill above the pipe with gravel. If you are backfilling manually, you can place a board behind the pipe and gradually fill soil behind the board by pulling the board out every few inches.

step seven. Finish backfilling around the basement walls. Later you may need to fill in more soil as the disturbed soil settles.

step eight. Using construction cement, attach rigid 2-inch sheets of urethane or Styrofoam to the outside surface of the root canopy.

step nine. Spread a sheet of 6 mil polyethylene over the insulation.

step ten. Cover the root basement with 2 to 4 feet of soil. Plant grass on the roof to hold the soil so it doesn’t run off when it rains.

step eleven. Sprinkle gravel on the root cellar floor (optional).

step twelve. make shelves. Be sure to leave that 2 inch space between the shelf and the wall to allow for air circulation. Stiffen the shelves with reclaimed wood as shown. Better not make the shelves too deep, 16 inches should be enough.

step thirteen. Insulate a standard door with 2 x 2 pieces of wood nailed around the edge on the inside. Fit 2 inch styrofoam into this frame. Cover the styrofoam with aspenite or a similar covering. If you can keep between 32 and 40 F you have an excellent camp spot.

In our own experiments with storing live winter vegetables, we discovered a pleasure akin to the satisfaction of getting dressed by a warm fire on a cold morning.

Other keys to success in the root cellar

Now that you know how to build your root cellar, a few tips on how to make the most of it:

Accessibility: The more convenient your root cellar is, the more useful it will be to you. A root cellar that is close to home, easy to clean, well-lit (a bare bulb is fine), and practical is most satisfying.

Canned Food: Don’t keep jars of canned food in your main vegetable storage. The moisture you need for your root crops will rust the lids.

Cooperative Root Cellaring: As we discussed earlier, an area of ​​8 feet by 8 feet should be enough for the average family. However, consider setting up a co-operative root cellar, with maintenance tasks shared among multiple families. The construction of the basement could also be a community effort. Or an owner might accept products and charge a small rent or accept barter deals.

Darkness: An electric light is a great help when looting your shop, but the root cellar should be dark in between. Light spoils some stored vegetables. If you ventilate a basement room by raising an outside window, be sure to shade it.

Pests: Close all rooms as tightly as possible to keep mice out. This means shielding all vent pipes and windows and ensuring the door closes tightly.

Storage: The debate is about boxes vs. half-busel baskets. Half-bushel baskets are lightweight and easy to handle. Crates use space more efficiently and can be stacked. You decide.

In our own experiments with storing live winter vegetables, we discovered a pleasure akin to the satisfaction of getting dressed by a warm fire on a cold morning—the pleasure of reaching into one’s stash to find food for the winter table. Shivering as we push our way back into the warm kitchen with parsnips in our pockets, a handful of potatoes and a bag of carrots, we feel very comfortable because we managed to grow and preserve them. We wish each of you the same satisfaction.

The material in this article appears in Mike and Nancy Bubel’s new issue of Root Cellaring: Natural Cold Storage of Fruits & Vegetables. Available from MOTHER EARTH NEWS Shopping, the book contains detailed plans for all types of root cellars, as well as a range of wonderful insights and tips.

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Root cellars are designed to store food in cold temperatures to preserve it for weeks or months. Rather than letting them sit on a shelf and rot or take up space in your fridge, you can use a root cellar to keep your fruits, vegetables, and other organic foods safe for longer periods of time.

Most experts suggest that you should keep your root cellar between 0°C and 4°C (32°F to 40°F), which happens to be the same recommended temperature range as a refrigerator. Depending on the content, you can set it colder or warmer.

In this article, you will learn the following information about root cellars:

What temperature should they be for fruits and vegetables?

Can the temperature in a root cellar be changed at different points?

Additional storage suggestions

What temperature should a root cellar for fruit and vegetables have?

If you store fruit and vegetables in a root cellar, a slight temperature fluctuation can extend or shorten the shelf life. For example, if you go too far past 40 degrees, you could risk spoiling them much more quickly. On the other hand, storing certain fruits and vegetables below 32 degrees could freeze them and ruin the flavor.

As mentioned above, you should set your root cellar between 32 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit. This temperature range is just above freezing, making it a perfect environment for fruit and vegetables. You don’t have to worry about bacteria thriving and you don’t have to thaw your produce before consuming.

Humidity is just as important as temperature. If your basement is too dry, it could deprive your food of moisture. On the other hand, too much moisture can encourage bacteria to grow. It can also cause ice crystals that change the taste of the food. Natural evaporation requires additional moisture that needs to be controlled and added.

The internal humidity of your root cellar should be between 85 and 95 percent for them to keep for weeks or months. You can eat them without worrying about insects, bacteria and other harmful critters.

Another reason the humidity range and cold temperature are both necessary is that they slow the decomposition process. They combine to reduce the amount of ethylene gas produced, which normally causes microorganisms to consume and break down food.

Contrary to popular belief, you can have a root cellar in a variety of locations. Here are a few examples:

garages

Garbage can

basement, cellar

Artificial cellars underground

holes in the ground

Anywhere you can block excess light while controlling temperature and humidity will create a great root cellar. From there, you can measure settings to preserve fruits, vegetables, jarred foods, and more.

How do you set the temperature of a root cellar?

If you’re lucky enough to have a thermostat in your root cellar, you can turn it up or down to adjust it to your desired temperature range. You’ll also need something to add moisture to, so feel free to add a hygrometer like this if you don’t have one. Some climates will already fit within the required humidity range, in which case you don’t need to adjust much at all.

There are numerous other ways to regulate the temperature in your root cellar. Trying to figure out how to have multiple temperature readings for different types of food in a single basement can be a bit tricky. Here are a few suggestions you could try:

Dig a hole about 10 feet deep to maintain the temperature of your choice. At this depth you can control the temperature without the outside ambient temperature adjusting it for you.

to maintain the desired temperature. At this depth you can control the temperature without the outside ambient temperature adjusting it for you. Allow for good air circulation by keeping all your food about two to three inches away from walls, floors, ceilings, and other objects. Otherwise mold may form.

by keeping all your food about two to three inches away from walls, floors, ceilings and other objects; Otherwise mold may form. Consider building a wall between your root cellar to divide it into two distinct areas. This allows you to install an additional thermostat to adapt to the needs of different foods.

to divide it into two distinct areas. This allows you to install an additional thermostat to adapt to the needs of different foods. If you use central cooling, keep your food that needs a lower temperature closer to the ventilation openings. Most cooling vents go up to 20 degrees below the set temperature to combat the stagnant air in the room. You can keep foods that don’t need to be that cold a little farther from the vents.

. Most cooling vents go up to 20 degrees below the set temperature to combat the stagnant air in the room. You can keep foods that don’t need to be that cold a little farther from the vents. Add an exhaust pipe to remove heat from the ground and running machines (humidifiers, thermostats, air vents, hygrometers, etc.). Place the exhaust pipes closest to root vegetables and other foods that don’t need to be as cold as others.

As for temperature control in a single non-separated root cellar, that would be quite a challenge. Aside from getting the vent and exhaust pipes properly placed, there’s not much you can do other than separate them. If you’re really concerned, try putting some of the food in jars to keep it separate.

Additional storage tips for root cellars

Maintaining a root cellar is very easy once you get started. The hardest part is controlling the environment, but with the right tools you can easily do it. If you’re figuring out how to keep the temperature where it needs to be, try these five helpful storage suggestions:

Never attempt to establish a root cellar in a shed or other area where you cannot fully control the temperature and humidity. If you only have one shed available, insulate it as best you can. The wood and metal that make up most sheds are terrible for insulation and temperature control, not to mention they can corrode and rust. Don’t get short with the humidifier and cooling system. They are both very crucial to the effectiveness and longevity of your root cellar. You should expect that most of your wine cellar’s maintenance will be devoted primarily to repairing these parts, although they don’t need to be repaired often. Dirt is an incredible insulator. If you are able, build your root cellar underground. Soil has been used to build homes and cabins for centuries, so why not use it as an inexpensive way to regulate the temperature and humidity of your root cellar? Consider installing fans in your root cellar to circulate cool air. You can use this technique to lower the temperature of certain spots relative to others, although it’s not as effective as a separate room. Pay attention to the types of lights you use in your basement, if any. Some lamps, including incandescent bulbs, get very hot very quickly. You can end up overheating your food resting right under the lights. Instead, try to carry a lantern or flashlight when going inside.

Conclusion

Root cellars must maintain a stagnant cold temperature and humidity to preserve everything within. Once you have your basement up and running, you can control the environment with very little effort or money.

Here are a few takeaways from the post:

A root cellar should be between 32 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit.

Air vents, pipes and fans can be used to adjust the indoor temperature.

You need top quality insulation to prevent the ambient temperature from altering the root cellar environment.

Consider dividing your root cellar into small rooms or enclosed shelves to accommodate multiple temperatures.

Recommended products for the care of the root cellar

I took the time to review a few things you might need for a root cellar. Here are some Amazon products you may find helpful:

Hello, I’m Anne but my grandkids call me Jelly Grandma. I have over 50 years of experience as a Southern cook and am a retired librarian. I love sharing what I’ve learned. You can also find me on YouTube! Just click the link at the bottom of your page. I hope your visit here was pleasant.

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Highlights Expect to spend between $200 and $55,000 to build a root cellar.

You can build an aboveground or underground root cellar.

Keep your fruits, vegetables and root crops fresh all year round.

Wet and humid conditions are not ideal for underground basements.

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Old becomes new again and root cellars are experiencing a modern comeback. Because many homeowners desire fresh fruit, vegetables, root crops, and nuts year-round, root cellars provide a dark, dry, low-temperature environment for produce to thrive. For a fully or partially underground root cellar, you can expect to pay anywhere from $2,600 to $11,500. To build a simplified above-ground root cellar, you can expect to spend $500 or less.

How much does it cost to build a root cellar by type?

There are different types of root cellars including above ground, below ground, basement and more. What type you build will affect your final cost.

Root Cellar Type Cost Above ground $200 – $25,000 Below ground $10,000 – $55,000 Basement $10,000 – $25,000 Garage floor $3,000 – $9,000 FEMA Safe Room/Storm Shelter Up to 75% of total cost

Unearthly

Depending on the type, above-ground root cellars range from $200 for a crawl space to $25,000 for cinder block, concrete, insulation, and professional labor and building.

Underground

Underground root cellars are usually built into a slope or underground, making them exceptional for storing many crops. Depending on the type of materials used, equipment rental, and labor, you can expect to spend anywhere from $10,000 to $55,000 on this project.

basement

Adding a root cellar to your existing basement requires some remodeling. To add a gravel floor, proper ventilation, air conditioning, and shelving, you can expect to spend anywhere from $10,000 to $25,000.

garage floor

Garage floor root cellars are smaller than underground units, but they make it easy for homeowners who want underground storage without leaving home. This option saves time and effort—homeowners don’t have to go outside to remove snow or debris from an in-ground root cellar door. You can expect to pay anywhere from $3,000 to $9,000 for this type.

FEMA Safe Room/Storm Shelter

When considering building an above-ground root basement, many homeowners choose to set up a FEMA containment room or storm shelter (FEMA P-361) to cover up to 75% of the cost.

The requirements for a tornado or hurricane storm shelter reflect the dimensions of an above-ground root cellar, making this option a viable option for those living in storm-prone areas.

Building a root basement cost breakdown

materials

Depending on the complexity of your root cellar, materials can be among the highest or lowest cost. The most cost-effective option is to use recycled materials found around your home.

However, if you want to build a root cellar from scratch, you need to consider these material costs:

Material Cost Permits $1,200 – $2,000 Gravel Floor $1 – $3 per square foot Concrete Walls $2,500 – $8,000 Plywood $30 per panel Insulation $20 – $30 per panel Doors $500 – $3,500 Refrigeration $1,000 – $10,000 Thermometer $100 Hygrometer (for humidity) $25 Storage Racks/Containers $250-$1,500 Drainage $1,900-$6,000

equipment rental

You will have to account for hiring heavy equipment or hiring professionals to construct root cellars in the ground.

Excavator: It costs $5 to $200 per cubic yard for professional excavation; $350 to $1,600 per day for rental and diggers and home improvement.

Pouring Concrete: It costs $100 per cubic meter for professional concrete pouring.

work

You should budget 30% for professional labor cost to build your root cellar.

humidity

To prevent your plants from withering and rotting, you need to keep the humidity in your root cellar below 95%. Many cold climates make for reasonable temperatures below ground, but if you live in a warmer climate you will need to insulate your basement to keep it cool. You can expect to pay anywhere from $100 to $3,500 for air conditioning.

size

The average size and depth of a root cellar is 10 square feet. Smaller root cellars are 5 by 8 square feet. Depending on the size, you can expect to spend between $3,000 and $30,000 to build your root cellar.

air circulation

Certain fruits and vegetables, such as apples and pears, emit ethylene gas – a natural occurrence that helps fruit ripen. To avoid over-ripening all of your stored plants, you need to provide adequate ventilation in your root cellar. Expect to pay anywhere from $300 to $6,000 to install inlet and outlet ports.

Cost of building a root cellar near you

Photo: Aleksandar Angelov Asenov / EyeEm / Getty Images

Root cellars require low temperatures, high humidity, ventilation, a dry or damp room, no sunlight, and accessibility. To meet this need, you ideally need to live in an area with a cooler climate so that you can dig a root cellar.

Fortunately, there are many different types of root cellars, so you can build one to suit the needs of your current climate and the square footage of your home.

region

In naturally cold climates like New England, you can build an above-ground root cellar to store herbs, grains, squash, beans, onions, and garlic. These items survive well in cooler temperatures and do not require the moisture that comes with an underground root cellar. You can expect to pay anywhere from $200 to $25,000 for this option.

When building a root cellar in the southeast, southwest, and extreme west, such as B. in Arizona and Texas, there are costs to account for the additional insulation to cool your root cellar from the heat. You should plan to spend between $500 and $25,000 or more.

Federal State

States with a lot of rainfall and humidity are not ideal for underground root cellars. For example, Louisiana is considered a subtropical area and has a high water table, meaning there is no option for an underground root cellar. An above-ground root cellar will not work either because it is too humid outside. In this range, adding a freestanding refrigerated root cellar to your home will cost around $900 for a pre-engineered refrigerator and an average of $30,000 for a custom refrigerator designed for your lifestyle.

City center vs. rural

Many homeowners in large cities can enjoy the benefits of fresh produce year-round without having to build an underground root cellar. You can store your harvest in your home in refrigerators or insulated containers, which cost anywhere from $200 to $3,000. Choose a cooler that maintains a temperature of 32 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit. Leave the top 1/4 inch open for ventilation.

Typically, rural homeowners benefit from ample space to build a root cellar of their choice. With numerous options available, you can expect to spend an average of $3,000-$15,000 for an above-ground basement and $4,000-$30,000 for an underground root cellar.

Costs for building a root cellar yourself

Smaller above-ground root cellars are ideal for do-it-yourselfers. You can build a barrel root cellar, create a berm – a rounded mound of earth that forms a barrier to the outside, or dig a crawl space.

You save 30% on labor costs and can work on your root cellar at your own pace. You’ll need a drill, safety glasses, screws, storage baskets, and inexpensive or recycled building materials. You can expect to spend $500 or less for these options.

Cost of self-installation versus hiring a contractor

First, experienced DIYers can install small prefab root cellars for as little as $1,000. However, larger prefab root cellars cost between $10,000 and $30,000 and require heavy equipment to install, so it’s best left to the professionals.

Secondly, we recommend that only professionals undertake the construction of an earth cellar. You will need to hire a local structural engineer or architect in your area to create blueprints for this project.

Finally, you must hire a licensed contractor in your area to properly build your root cellar while complying with all local safety and building codes. You can expect to spend anywhere from $10,000 to $55,000 for professionals, materials, installation, and labor for this project.

How to save money building a root cellar

You can create an above-ground root cellar from an outbuilding, such as a a metal storage cabinet, for a DIY and less expensive approach. This option provides a cool, humid temperature and plenty of ventilation.

Another inexpensive option is to convert the space under your patio into a semi-above-ground root cellar using metal bins and plastic sheeting.

frequently asked Questions

Should I buy or build a root cellar?

It depends on your budget and what you want to achieve. If you’re looking for a quick and easy solution, buying a cool box or pre-built root cellar is a good choice.

However, if you want plenty of storage space for your many fruits, vegetables, and root crops, consider building a root cellar for the long term.

What do I have to consider when building a root cellar?

It might be tempting to save money by burying an old fridge or freezer in the ground to keep your perishables cool and dark. But without proper ventilation, your produce will rot. It’s best to build a root cellar with the right equipment and environment to keep your plants fresh and mature.

What other projects should I be doing at the same time?

Since root cellars are great for extending the life of your fruits, veggies, and root vegetables, you can also add canned foods to your project list. Canned food will keep your food fresh for up to a year, and since canned food needs a dry, dark, and cool environment to thrive, a root cellar is the perfect place to store it.

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How long does food last in a root cellar is a common question I get. I always tell people that storage times can vary a lot and depend on the optimal conditions in the cellar. So I wrote this article to help people with this difficult question.

How long does food last in a root cellar? The cool and fairly stable environment of a root cellar allows most foods to have a longer shelf life than other storage methods. Even so, each type of food has its own shelf life guidelines that should be followed. To achieve optimal conditions, a hygrometer can be used to measure humidity.

While we all know that root vegetables can be stored in a root cellar, many other vegetables can be stored this way, as well as many fruits. This list will help you figure out the best way to store the most common fruits and vegetables that are suitable for root cellar storage.

Can be stored in the root cellar

Harvest shelf life Apples 4-6 months Artichokes 2-4 months Green beans 4-6 months Beets 2-5 months Broccoli 1-2 weeks Brussels sprouts 3-5 weeks Cabbages 3-4 months Carrots 4-6 months Celery 5-8 weeks Citrus 4 -6 weeks Cucumbers 1-3 weeks Aubergines 1-2 weeks Grapes 4-6 weeks Horseradish 10-12 months Leafy greens 10-14 days Harvest shelf life Leeks 2-3 months Onions/garlic 4-8 months Parsnips 4-6 months Pears 2– 3 months peas 4-6 months peppers, peppers 1-2 weeks peppers, dry 4-6 months potatoes 4-6 months pumpkin/squash 5-6 months swedes 2-4 months salsify 2-4 months sweet potatoes 4-6 months tomatoes, ripe 5-10 days Green tomatoes 1-2 mo Beets 4-5 mo

Download the printable version of this Root Cellar Storage Chart

Note: turnip greens, endive, celeriac are detailed below but not included in the table.

Detailed retention policies

Note: To measure humidity, you need a hygrometer, like this one on Amazon.

root vegetable

These are the vegetables that do best in root cellars and have the longest shelf life.

beets

Temperature: Cold, 0.5°C to 4.5°C (33°F to 40°F)

Humidity: Very humid, 90% – 95%

Shelf life: 3-5 months

Storage: Store on lower shelves in a covered container like this one, layered with sand. Sort by size, using the smallest beets first. The larger the size, the longer they usually last.

Other Considerations: Trim the green leaving 2 inches of stem; brush off loose soil; Layer in wet sand, sawdust or peat moss; Beets should not touch each other.

carrots

Temperature: Cold, 0.5°C to 4.5°C (33°F to 40°F)

Humidity: Very humid, 90% – 95%

Shelf Life: 4 to 6 months, some strains can last longer in ideal conditions.

Storage: Store on lower shelves in a covered container covered with sand or clipped lids and cover with damp sawdust or moss. Sort by size, using the smallest carrots first. The larger the size, the longer they usually last.

Additional considerations: If you’re running out of space in your root cellar, carrots can be stored where they’re grown; mulch deeply with 1 to 2 feet of hay or straw and harvest as needed.

parsnips

Temperature: Cold, 0.5°C to 4.5°C (33°F to 40°F)

Humidity: Very humid, 90% – 95%

Shelf life: 4 to 6 months

Storage: Store on lower shelves in a covered container with sand, or store in damp sawdust or moss. Sort by size, using the smallest parsnips first. The larger the size, the longer they usually last.

Other considerations: Like carrots, parsnips can be mulched outdoors, but only if temperatures don’t repeatedly freeze and thaw; They last longer in a root cellar.

potatoes

Temperature: Cold, 0.5°C to 4.5°C (38°F to 40°F)

Humidity: Wet, 80% – 90%

Shelf life: 4 to 6 months

Storage: Store in sand, sawdust or moss in complete darkness. A trash can or a mesh or paper bag will work.

Additional Considerations: Cure potatoes in a dark place at 45 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit for 10 to 14 days after harvest; They require 40-45 degrees Fahrenheit for long-term storage, so monitor them closely and avoid storage near ethylene-releasing plants.

swedes

Temperature: Cold, 0.5°C to 4.5°C (33°F to 40°F)

Humidity: Very humid, 90% – 95%

Shelf life: 5 to 6 months

Storage: Layer in a box with wet sand and keep wet; store on the lower shelves of the root cellar.

Other considerations: Causes odors, so consider storing outdoors or storing them separately rather than storing them in the basement with other veggies.

beets

Temperature: Cold, 0.5°C to 4.5°C (33°F to 40°F)

Humidity: Very humid, 90% – 95%

Shelf life: 4 to 5 months

Storage: Layer moist sand and check regularly that it remains moist.

Other Considerations: Like rutabagas, turnips can produce odors, so consider storing them separately.

sweet potatoes

Temperature: Warm, do not allow the temperature to drop below 55°F. (55°F to 60°F) (12.8°C to 15.6°C)

Humidity: dry, 60%-70%

Shelf life: 2 to 3 months

Storage: For long-term storage, store in a warm, dry area on the top shelves of the basement; Use ventilated boxes and wrap them individually in paper.

Additional considerations: brush off soil and allow to harden for 5-10 days at 25-25 degrees Celsius and high humidity after harvest; store in a cool, dry place (55-60 degrees Fahrenheit) for long-term storage,

other vegetables

In the root cellar you can preserve a whole range of vegetables and fruits and in some cases even keep up with the storage time of typical root vegetables.

artichokes

Temperature: Cold, 0.5°C to 4.5°C (33°F to 40°F)

Humidity: Very humid, 90% – 95%

Shelf life: 1-2 months

Storage: Layer in a container in damp sand and store on the lower shelves of the basement.

Additional Considerations: Like carrots, artichokes can be stored where they grow; mulch deeply with 1 to 2 feet of hay or straw and harvest as needed. Artichokes will last 1 to 2 months in a basement but will last until spring if left unharvested and mulched unless the soil freezes. Freezing temperatures affect the flavor, texture, and even color of artichokes. Diseased, bruised, or skinned fruit spoils more easily.

beans, green

Temperature: Cool, 0.5°C to 10°C (40°F to 50°F)

Humidity: humid, 80% – 90%

Shelf life: 4-6 months

Storage: Store 3-4 feet off the ground.

Additional Considerations: Green beans taste best when salted and stored in ceramic containers.

broccoli

Temperature: Cold, 0.5°C to 4.5°C (33°F to 40°F)

Humidity: Very humid, 90% – 95%

Shelf life: 1 to 2 weeks

Storage: Store on lower shelves in a perforated plastic bag.

Other considerations: Avoid storing near fruits and vegetables that emit ethylene gas, which will greatly reduce shelf life; Broccoli doesn’t keep for long, but does best at 33 degrees Fahrenheit with very high humidity; Regulate carefully and do not freeze.

Cauliflower

Temperature: Cold, 0.5°C to 4.5°C (33°F to 40°F)

Humidity: Very humid, 90% – 95%

Shelf life: 3 to 5 weeks

Storage: Store on lower shelves in a perforated plastic bag.

Other considerations: dig up plants and repot potted plants and store in the root cellar, or hang plants from the ceiling by their roots and continue harvesting as needed; Otherwise, harvest the sprouts and wrap them in perforated plastic wrap for optimal storage.

cabbage, heads

Temperature: Cold, 0.5°C to 4.5°C (33°F to 40°F)

Humidity: Very humid, 90% – 95%

Shelf life: 4 to 6 months, depending on the variety of cabbage. Red cabbage has a longer shelf life than green cabbage; later harvests last longer than the early harvests.

Storage: Leave at least 3 inches of space between individually wrapped heads when storing them on the lower shelves in the basement; repot and place on the basement floor; or hang by the roots.

Other Considerations: Consider using separate storage for cabbage to avoid odors.

Leek

Temperature: Cold, 0.5°C to 4.5°C (33°F to 40°F)

Humidity: humid, 80% – 90%

Shelf life: 2 to 3 months

Storage: Store on the lower shelves.

Other: Harvest only after the first frost; can be left in the garden and covered with 1 to 2 feet of mulch; or may be dug up and repotted; and can be stored upright in a bucket of moist soil or sand and harvested as needed.

onions and garlic

Temperature: Cool, 4.5°C to 10°C (40°F to 50°F)

Humidity: dry, 60% to 70%

Shelf life: 4 to 6 months

Storage: Store on the upper shelves in the basement.

Additional Considerations: Cure in a dry, well-ventilated area for 10 to 14 days until the skin is papery and the roots are dry; Cut off the tops and store in ventilated containers such as mesh netting as dry and ventilated conditions are essential.

Pumpkins and Squash

Temperature: Cool, 4.5°C to 10°C (40°F to 50°F)

Humidity: dry, 60% to 70%

Shelf life: 5 to 6 months

Storage: Store on top racks or in a cool, dark storage area.

Additional considerations: Harvest before frost, leaving 1 to 2 inches of stem intact, and allow squashes to ripen at 80 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit for about 10 days before storing in the root cellar. Acorn squash does not need to be pickled. Wash winter squashes and gourds in a solution of 1 cup bleach to 1 gallon water and rinse well before storing to remove any fungus or bacteria.

tomatoes

Temperature: Cool, 4.5°C to 10°C (40°F to 50°F)

Humidity: dry, 60% to 70%

Shelf life: 5-10 days ripe, 1-2 months green, depending on the variety

Storage: Store on the top shelves.

Additional considerations: Some strains are intended for winter storage and will last much better than others. Tomatoes can be picked while still green and left to ripen in storage to extend storage time, hung upside down from a vine, or individually wrapped in newspaper. Do not keep temperatures below 55 degrees Fahrenheit

fruit

apples

Temperature: Cold, 0.5°C to 4.5°C (33°F to 40°F)

Humidity: Wet, 80% to 90%

Shelf life: 4 to 6 months

Storage: Store on the lower shelves of a root cellar.

Additional considerations: Varieties differ dramatically in terms of storage times; newer varieties last longer than antique or old varieties. Wrap apples individually in newspaper and store in crates or wooden crates. Store only ripe, undamaged fruit. Do not store apples with vegetables, as the ethylene gas they give off will cause the vegetables to sprout and rot.

pears

Temperature: Cold, 0.5°C to 4.5°C (33°F to 40°F)

Humidity: Wet, 80% to 90%

Shelf life: 2-3 months

Storage: Store on the lower shelves of the root cellar.

Additional considerations: Pears are very temperature sensitive and are ideal for the lowest temperatures. Wrap them individually in newspaper or sealed bags and store in wooden crates lined with perforated plastic. They are best when used within 60 days. Pears should be stored separately from vegetables because of the ethylene gas they give off.

Place pears in a cool room to ripen about 3 days before use. Since pears ripen from the inside out, test for ripeness by gently squeezing the top of the neck, which gives slightly when ripe. If most of the pear is soft, it is overripe and may become mushy.

This is how you extend the shelf life

The shelf life of food can vary greatly and depends on the optimal conditions in the cellar. Keep in mind that although your root cellar will maintain a much more stable temperature than the above ground environment, conditions within the root cellar can also vary. For example, the top of a root cellar is warmer and less humid than the bottom, so make sure you stock your shelves accordingly.

There are a few ways to maximize the shelf life of the food you store in a root cellar. Here are a few:

Plant or buy the varieties of each product that store better than others. Certain crops, such as artichokes, carrots, and onions, will last longer if not harvested and mulched than if harvested and stored in a cellar. Pick fruit and vegetables when they are at their peak of ripeness and do not allow them to overripe before storing. Handle food with care to avoid bruises and other damage. Prepare food for storage in a way that extends its shelf life, whether it’s individually wrapped, layered in a storage medium, or stored in an airtight or perforated container. Place food at the right height in the basement to maintain the desired temperature and humidity. Monitor basement conditions often enough to make adjustments to temperature and humidity as needed. Contact your district representative for help in adapting your root cellar and the plants you grow to the area you live in to maximize your storage success.

How to adjust the temperature and humidity in the root cellar

temperature

While root cellars tend to hold their temperatures fairly well due to their depth, in cold climates a 40-60 watt incandescent lamp can be used to maintain the required temperature in a root cellar to prevent temperatures from dropping too low. If you’re using a lightbulb, be sure to cover it with something like a metal bucket that blocks the light. Most products hold up better in the dark. In warm climates, an electric fan can be used to cool large batches of produce being placed in the root cellar at one time, as it is necessary to chill some vegetables such as mustard greens, kohlrabi, mustard, and kale quickly to prevent them from wilting.

humidity

Hygrometer: An instrument that monitors the humidity in an area’s atmosphere can be used to more accurately determine when humidity adjustments are needed in a root cellar. Water: In order to raise the humidity to a very high level, you may need to sprinkle water on the basement floor. Ventilation: In summer, ventilation can be used to increase the humidity in the root cellar, but do not open the vents so much that the temperature rises too high. Hydrated Lime: Collects moisture from the atmosphere and can be sprinkled on root cellar soil to reduce moisture when a drier atmosphere is required.

Note: Make sure the humidity level stays below 95% otherwise moisture can form on the basement surfaces.

Root cellar care products

I took the time to review a few things you might need for a root cellar. Here are some Amazon products you may find helpful:

related questions

Can you store meat in a root cellar? Meat should not be stored in a root cellar as the optimum temperature is above freezing. Meat will rot quickly if not kept in freezing temperatures.

For more information, see What temperature should a root cellar be? How cold?

Hello, I’m Anne but my grandkids call me Jelly Grandma. I have over 50 years of experience as a Southern cook and am a retired librarian. I love sharing what I’ve learned. You can also find me on YouTube! Just click the link at the bottom of your page. I hope your visit here was pleasant.

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Until fruit and vegetables were available in groceries all year round, the root cellar played an important role in everyday life.

Today, backyard gardeners (and those who buy in bulk during peak periods) are rediscovering the benefits of the root cellar — essentially a pantry for long-term storage of produce like apples and potatoes.

Although classic root cellars have been dug into the hillsides, there are many more casual ways to achieve the same result. Regardless of your approach to manufacturing, keep these considerations in mind as you work to ensure that your grown or purchased produce lasts as long into the winter season as possible.

temperature

When you set out to build a root cellar, temperature outweighs all other important factors. The reason root cellars are so often underground is that temperatures underground are not only stable, but also cool. Anywhere between 32 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit is ideal. At least at the beginning, pay close attention to the temperature. To remedy this, it is definitely worth investing in a quality thermometer; Choose one that tracks min and max readings over a set period of time.

Store products indoors, close to the floor and walls. Here the products stay a few degrees cooler than on a high shelf in the middle of the room. If your basement doesn’t drop to 32 or 40 degrees, follow in the footsteps of others who have dug under the basement slab to access cooler temperatures. The easiest method – although it has disadvantages – is to simply bury a plastic or metal bin filled with produce in the garden and cover it with straw.

ventilation

For a successful root cellar, the ventilation system must be designed in such a way that it exchanges air without increasing the temperature at the same time. This can be achieved using simple science: warm air rises and cool air falls, so place the inlet on the lower side of the basement while locating the outlet near the ceiling of the storage area. A fan can force air through the inlet, and if you’re building the root cellar in your basement, a window can serve as the outlet. If possible, store the products in raised boxes for better circulation.

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humidity

Maintain high humidity—about 90 to 95 percent relative humidity—but not so high that the root cellar becomes a dripping jungle. A floor covered with dirt or gravel can be periodically moistened with the addition of water. If the humidity is still too low, pack the products in wet sawdust, sand or moss. Along the way, track your progress with a hygrometer, a simple device that measures relative humidity.

Darkness

Since light causes some fruits and vegetables to spoil more quickly, keep the root cellar as dark as possible. If the storage area will occupy your basement, plan to completely cover all windows.

size

A root cellar does not have to be big. A five-by-eight room can hold up to 30 bushels—more than enough for most families. Install slatted frames along the walls to maximize storage and keep things tidy.

Different types of products have different storage requirements. If you’re serious about building a root cellar, research recommendations for the specific fruits and vegetables you plan to store there. However, with the general advice above, you should be well on your way to eating healthy, fresh food this winter. Delicious!