How To Build A Triangle Loom? The 118 Detailed Answer

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How do you put pins on a loom Square?

Start by holding your squares right sides together, then insert your hook through both layers and pull a loop of your extra yarn through the layers, then insert hook a little bit to the side of where you made your first insertion, and pull another loop through the layers, and the loop on your hook.

Sweet Leaf Notebook: Building the Triangle Loom

Can I make my own loom?

Cut the piece of wood down to size – you’ll need two 12 inch long pieces of 1×2 and two 18 inch long pieces of 1×2 for this one. Then, start laying out the pieces to create the loom shape. I recommend putting the 2 longer pieces (18 inch pieces) on the bottom and the 2 shorter pieces (12 inch) on top of that.

Sweet Leaf Notebook: Building the Triangle Loom

What type of string is used for a loom?

Embroidery floss can be used as a filling thread. Warp threads are the lengthwise yarns or strings that are used to dress the loom. They must be strong enough to withstand the tension of the equipment and the abrasive effects of the weaving process.

Sweet Leaf Notebook: Building the Triangle Loom

How do you make a stranded deep loom?

To use loom in Stranded Deep you will need to craft it, all you have to do is press C, you’re going to need 6 sticks and lashings. Once you have those things, all you need to do is craft it. Once crafted, you can simply start crafting as soon as it is done. Keep in mind that you will need to be near the loom to do so.

Sweet Leaf Notebook: Building the Triangle Loom

What is the best loom for beginners?

Rigid Heddle Looms

A rigid-heddle loom is a good beginner’s loom. It also offers a lot in terms of patterning to an experienced weaver through hand manipulation of the warp and weft. With one rigid heddle, the can be used for two-shaft weaving using yarns that are generally thicker than those used by shaft looms.

Sweet Leaf Notebook: Building the Triangle Loom

How far apart should nails be on a loom?

since you’re going to be driving nails into the wood, it’s a good idea to stagger the nails to help prevent/ minimize splintering or cracking in the wood. as you can see, I spaced my nails 1/2 inch apart, alternating up and down.

Sweet Leaf Notebook: Building the Triangle Loom

Making a tri loom | triangular weaving loom

See some more details on the topic how to build a triangle loom here:

How to build and use a tri-loom – Pinterest

Continuous Strand Weaving On A Triangle Loom (part 1 of 3). This veo demonstrates how to begin weaving on a tri loom using the continuous strand method. This …

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Source: www.pinterest.com

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How to build and use a tri-loom – Spinning Down Under

Making the loom is surprisingly simple as long as a few factors are remembered: It’s a right-angled triangle, so one angle is 90 degrees, the other 2 are 45 …

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DIY 7′ Triangle Loom or TriLoom, for short

If you have a la back nature or too poor to shell out $250 for a fancy one, then this project is for you. My loom is 7 feet at the west …

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Source: dawningdreamsblog.blogspot.com

Date Published: 7/11/2022

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Wayne Schmidt’s Triangle Loom Page

Take a length of yarn twice as long as the desired fringe. Double it over, use a crochet hook to pull the fringe’s loop through a se loop and use the hook …

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Source: www.waynesthisandthat.com

Date Published: 8/4/2021

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Building the Triangle Loom – Sweet Leaf Notebook

In addition, the Triangle Loom Yahoo Group also had plans for building looms, but you have to be a member to see it. Frankly, there are many …

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Source: sweetleafnotes.blogspot.com

Date Published: 5/8/2022

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Building a Tri-Loom – Colourful Designs by Bex Hopkins

I deced to build a Tri-Loom, after seeing Thiftwizard’s Tri-loom when I visited her house for a spin-In.

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Source: knit.colourfuldesigns.co.uk

Date Published: 7/11/2021

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Amazon.com: How To Build A Tri-Loom And Easel eBook

How To Build A Tri-Loom And Easel [Print Replica] Kindle Edition … In this booklet rather than “giving you a fish to eat” with exact measurements, I will be …

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Building my Triangle Loom – Hand Woven

Find the center of your hypotenuse and make a long mark there. This will be your center peg. Now measure your chosen distance for your pegs …

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Source: hand-woven.blogspot.com

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How to build and use a tri-loom

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Wayne Schmidt’s Triangle Loom Page

TRIANGLE LOOMS: 67 photos showing how to make and weave on a triangle loom.

(Click on the main page to browse 70 more themes ranging from exotic kaleidoscope designs to the weird world of lucid dreaming.)

While researching the internet for my Knitting Nancy website, I came across a reference to a so-called triangular loom. What caught my attention was the remark that these looms weave in such a way that warps are automatically created with each pick and the weaving is accomplished with a single continuous piece of yarn. Not being a weaver, I wouldn’t recognize a weft if it ran up a bit. But the idea of ​​doing two things at the same time piqued my engineer’s curiosity. Also, the only looms I’d seen were huge frameworks filled with hundreds of pieces of yarn, all doing their own thing. If those triangular looms really traded all that complexity for a single thread, I had to see them.

The search on the internet initially went well. In a short time I learned that triangular looms were exactly what they sounded like: a simple triangular wooden frame. Hundreds of nails are driven into the frame on all three sides and weaving is accomplished by passing the yarn up and down, back and forth through these nails. The only problem was that I couldn’t find any detailed construction information, specifically how tight the nails need to be for different yarns. More importantly, there were no instructions for weaving triangle looms that could be understood by someone completely unfamiliar with weaving. A visit to the library did not bring any helpful information either.

Eventually, through bits and pieces from various sources and a bit of creative thinking, I got an idea of ​​how to build and weave on a triangular loom. This page records my stumbling progress as I learned to weave on a triangular loom. I’m posting it to help newbies like me learn to weave and by showing my mistakes how to avoid them. I recommend anyone seriously interested in triangular weaving to purchase a professionally written book on the subject, available on many weaving websites.

Step 1: Making a Small Triangular Loom

A triangle loom consists of a triangular frame with a 90 degree angle at the bottom and 45 degree angles at the top two corners. The frame can be made of any wood that is smooth enough that the yarn won’t snag. Nails are driven into the face of the frame near the inside edge. These nails are usually 1/2 inch apart on the top rail and about 1/4 inch apart on each of the sides. The wood should be pre-drilled for the nails to prevent splintering.

Strolling around the garage, I turned up a box of 1 and 1/4 inch finishing nails and a 59 inch piece of 2 x 2 inch pine. (Pine is a little soft for a loom meant for many projects. The nails might pull out over time. Using a hardwood would make a much more durable frame.) Using a little high school geometry, I calculated the for the three required angles and lengths rails of the frame. Joining the corners with three inch drywall screws created a sturdy frame. Then I drew a line 1/4 inch from the inside edge of the frame all the way around it. Along the long upper arm of the frame, I drilled holes every 1/2 inch along that line and hammered a nail into each one. I used a plastic drafting square to create a 90 degree drop from each of these nails where it crossed the line on the side rails. I then added additional marks midway between each of these marks to double the number of positions for nails. As you will see a few images further down this page, two vertical lines of yarn (wefts) are created each time yarn is looped over a nail on the top rail. But each time a twine line is carried from one side rail nail to the other, only one horizontal twine line (one warp) is created. Therefore, in order to have the same number of horizontal and vertical yarn lines, there must be twice as many nails per inch on the side rails as there are on the top rail. If the number of nails were the same, the vertical yarn lines would quickly begin to slope towards the center of the frame and the lattice of criss-crossing yarns would not be square.

This little frame took an hour to build and cost only $1.34. Using cheap lumber, you could build a loom with an eight-foot upper arm for as little as $7. It wouldn’t look like much, but it would get the job done just as well as one that costs ten times the price.

Step 2: Begin weaving

I started by tying a slip knot at the end of a strand of yarn and pinning it to the corner nail on the left side of the top rail. I then carried the yarn under the nails to the right corner of the frame. This horizontal yarn line is the first or top warp. (Instead of tying the yarn to the corner nail, use a piece of the hook side of the Velcro to hold the yarn. This allows the yarn to be pulled loose and tightened, which is useful as the top line sometimes gets stretched and slack.)

At the corner nail on the right, I made a counter-clockwise twist around it, carried the yarn down and under the first nail on the side rail, and went back over the left. This second horizontal threadline is the second warp.

Back on the left side of the loom I brought the yarn up and around the second nail on the left side rail and brought it up and over the first warp. The yarn line going straight up leads back to the ball

The loom is now ready for weaving.

Plain or basic triangular loom weaving consists of passing a crochet hook over and under the horizontal warp threads, grabbing the loose line of yarn going back to the skein, pulling it down to form a yarn loop, threading that loop through the warp threads pull and hook one side of the loop to the nearest nail on the side you are working on, widen the loop by pulling it to the other side, allowing the yarn to pull out of the skein, and hook the second side the loop next to a nail on the other side of the loom. This is how it looks in pictures:

Reach through the warp threads to catch the loose yarn

Pull the yarn down to create a loop and pull that loop through the warp threads

Hook the left side of the loop to the next nail down on the left side

Pull the loop to the other side and pull yarn from the skein to widen the loop

Hook the right side of the loop onto the next nail at the bottom right side of the loom

In the last picture, notice that the loose end of the yarn goes back up and out of the picture. For the next weaving, the same process is repeated, except this time the loop begins on the right side. Weaving is simply a matter of repeating the process of pulling loops down from one side, hooking them on a nail, widening the loop as it is pulled sideways over the warp yarns, and threading it on the next nail on the opposite side to hook

This is what the end product of the above sequence of images looks like after the yarn has been tightened:

The only tricky part about weaving on a triangular loom is understanding that adjacent weft yarns (vertical yarn lines) must alternately pass over or under the same warp in order for the fabric to hold together to keep everything set.

Look closely at the two shots circling the top nail next to the corner nail above. The shot coming down from the right side of this nail goes under the top chain and over the second chain. The shot on the left side of the nail does the opposite. It then transitions under the same two warp threads. It is important to ensure that the weft threads alternate in this way. There are two ways to do this. First, each time you bring a new loop down you can look closely at where the last loop went to see if it started going over or under the top warp and with the new loop do the opposite. Second, you could follow the program to always bring the new loop over the top chain if you start the new loop on the right, and under the top chain if you start the loop on the left.

At the top is another loop starting from the left side so the loop starts by going under the top chain.

The image above shows a loop pulled through the warp threads on a larger project. It needs to hook and tighten its left and right sides around the nails on both sides. (With so many warp threads, it can save time and effort to switch from a crochet hook to a weaving needle, which is a long, brightly colored tipped needle with an eye.)

I quickly found that trying to pick up the warp yarns with my fingers to weave the weft yarns underneath wasn’t going to work. My fingers were too big for the tightly packed threads. It was also way too slow to do that one warp at a time to be practical. Fortunately, a much simpler and faster technique presented itself.

I noticed that the effect of the last shot is easy to see: it pushed up the warps it passed under and pushed down the warps it passed over. Since the next weft has to do the opposite, I realized I just had to weave it over the high warps and under the low warps. As soon as that light came on, another lit up, further speeding things up.

Instead of plucking at the warp threads one at a time to weave the wefts through them, I realized I could thread a crochet hook through several of them at once, hook the loop, and then pull it down. By making sure the crochet hook went over the warp threads that the previous weft was pushing up and under the warp threads that it was pushing down, I was sure things were right. It worked so well it sped things up by a factor of ten.

All you have to do now is keep weaving loops through the warp threads until the triangle is full. Before I get that far, there is something I wanted to try.

Step 4: C hanging colors

I came across two explanations on how to change colors, but despite reading them many times and trying to work them out on a loom, I couldn’t understand how to do it. I’m sure the instructions are correct. It was just that my ignorance of weaving made it impossible for me to understand what to do. So I came up with my own technique. Be warned, this is almost certainly the wrong way to do it.

The only thing I got out of the guide was the importance of making sure the color change is done in such a way that the change is symmetrical. This means that the first new color weft on the left goes under the same warp threads as the corresponding weft on the right. The only way to do this was to tie the new color to the old yarn in the exact spot where the old yarn would have gone up and over a nail in the top rail.

This knot needs to be very strong, small and able to be cut very tightly so that the loose yarn ends are not visible. A very tight square knot worked perfectly. (The only yarn I could find at home in a different color was one I “borrowed” from my wife’s collection for her knitting machine. It’s much finer than what I started with and has didn’t work very well. From this I learned that I want to use yarn that is all the same weight.)

After tightening the knot and trimming the loose ends, proceed to weaving as before.

The picture above shows the first loop of the new color after it has been tightened.

After a dozen loops with the new color, I switched back to the original and continued weaving until the frame was full. The last loop ran right down the middle and hooked on the bottom middle nail. The tuft of yarn sticking out at the top is the end of this loop.

Step 5: Finish

Usually the product of a triangle loom is a shawl with fringes. If this is the case, simply pull the loose end of the last loop down through the warp threads and cut to the length of the fringes you wish to add. I didn’t add any fringes for this test piece, so I just pulled it down and tied it to the last chain.

Step 6: Add fringes

I didn’t do this on my test piece, but it’s easy. Take a length of yarn twice the length of the fringe you want. Double it up, use a crochet hook to pull the loop of the fringe through a side loop, and use the crochet hook again to pull the loose ends of the fringe through the fringe’s own loop. Pull on the ends to tighten. Repeat with all the loops on the two side edges of the piece.

Note: The fringes will have a softer appearance and texture when ripped to length rather than cut.

Step 7: Removing the Work

With two exceptions, the selvedges are locked so that the work can now be easily removed from the frame. The top left corner is an exception.

The top chain runs through the top row of loops. Since the left end is not attached to the woven piece, if it is not tied, it will be pulled to the right through the loops and the work will unravel. I attached it to the last loop with a square knot. When a border is added, this loose end can become part of it.

The second place where the loops are unsecured is the last loop that is pulled down through the center of the scarf. It can be attached by pulling the loose side of this loop down and clipping it to form part of the fringe, or tying it to the last chain.

The top edge, which is created when the work is pulled straight off the loom, is somewhat smooth.

A nicer edge can be created by threading a crochet hook through the first loop in the upper right corner, grabbing the next loop and pulling it through the first loop, then repeating this process over the top of the work to create a chain stitch. Tie it off with the end of the loose meter sticking out on the left to lock the chain.

The resulting edge has a more solid look.

My finished test piece without braiding the edge:

After being put through a hot wash and dry cycle, the finished piece was ten percent smaller than the original nail spacing. That said, if I wanted a shawl with a seven-foot top edge, I would have to make the top row of nails on the frame seven feet and eight inches long.

One thing that is apparent is that the weave on my test piece is wide two open. The yarn I used was 1/16 inch in diameter, strong, smooth, and twisted (worsted) to keep it from fluffing up during the wash/dry cycle. The nails on the top rail were spaced 1/2 inch apart. What I learned from this is that the nails don’t have to be spaced more than 4 times the diameter of the yarn apart. In my case they should have been 1/4″ apart on the top rail and about 1/8″ on the sides. This spacing is so narrow that it might be difficult to work with. This distance of four times the yarn diameter applies only to a tight weave with non-linting yarn. If the yarn puffs up in the wash, a larger gap can be used. In addition, some towels are said to have an open, airy weave. They would also have greater nail spacing.

One option, instead of increasing the nail density or using heavier yarn for a dense weave, is to use two or three strands at a time. Tie the loose ends of the strands together and weave as if they were a piece of yarn.

Above is a picture of two yarns being woven into one. The resulting fabric suggests a checkerboard pattern. I found this technique awkward because the multiple strands had a much greater tendency to snag on things, slip off the ends of nails, and it was difficult to find the right warp pairs to weave through.

How much yarn does it need?

From several sites I have learned that the geometry of a triangular loom dictates that each loop be the same length and that length is equal to the distance across the top rail. This makes it easy to calculate the required yarn length. In the case of my small test frame, it’s the top length of 21 inches multiplied by 43 nails running down the side (including the bottom nail in the middle). This is 21 x 43 = 903 inches or 75 ft 3 inches.

The question now is how accurate is this estimate? To find out, I unraveled my sample piece and measured the yarn. It reached 72 ft 6 inches unstretched and 74 ft 9 inches stretched. These numbers are very close to the estimate. More importantly, they’re under estimate, so you can use them on the safe side. I assume the difference is due to the yarn being stretched more in the loom than measured.

For a 7ft scarf I need a frame with a 7ft 8in top to allow for shrinkage. If the nails in the top row are 1/2 inch apart, the estimated length of yarn needed is 1417 feet or 472 yards. If I were to finish the two short edges with a four inch fringe, that would add (8 inches per fringe x 369 fringe (the number of nails on the sides of the frame)) 247 feet or 86 yards. That makes a total of 562 meters of yarn.

Forward and upward!

Once I got the basics down, it was natural that I wanted to try something more substantial. I looked around the house for something to cover up and noticed that my lovely wife’s shoulders looked cold. Seems to me like something a nice warm scarf could fix. While I could weave two dozen little triangles like the one above and sew them together into a scarf, I doubt it would look like something she’d want to wear. That meant I needed a bigger loom. A quick trip to the hardware store yielded three 8 foot pieces of 2 x 2 inch pine and two boxes of nails. I was good to go

But first, it’s time to streamline things

As previously mentioned, the nail spacing on my test loom was way too far apart for the yarn I was using. I doubled the number of nails so the distance between the nails on the top rail was 4 times the width of the yarn to see if this rule was correct.

My concern wasn’t with the 1/4 inch spacing on the top rail, but with the almost 1/8 inch spacing on the side rails.

As you can see if you compare the spacing with the size “E” crochet hook behind the nails, they are so close that heads start to crowd. Surprisingly, when I started weaving, it wasn’t as hard as I thought it would be. I quickly figured out various techniques for handling the yarn that made it easy to get it between the right nails.

The increased density was more than I had hoped. I was expecting it to double, but now I understand that by doubling the nails on the top and sides, I doubled both the warp and weft lines. This increased the density by a factor of four.

.

original nail spacing…….. after doubling the nails

Both images above were taken at the same scale as you can see if you compare the distance between the first and second nails on the left to the first and third on the right. In the picture on the left, the yarn looks thicker because it wasn’t pulled as tight. It appears that as the weave gets finer there is a tendency to weave tighter which stretches the yarn. This should be avoided as it makes the yarn thin which defeats the purpose of going to a higher density weave. I need to let go of the tension.

As I examined my technique, I discovered that I straightened the shots by dragging them down until they were straight. This stretched the yarn. Now I just pull it far enough to get it around the nail and then use the end of the crochet hook to slide it over so it lines up straight. This makes the yarn bulkier and the fabric looks tighter. I also suspect that removing the piece from the frame reduces shrinkage.

(Slide the shot to the left)

Another benefit of skimming over the wefts is that I was able to get them perfectly straight. The wefts tend to bow towards the center of the work. Uncorrected, this can lead to bunching in the middle of the piece. Straight beating of the weft threads prevents this.

The final wefts were extremely difficult to weave through the warp threads. Everything was so tight that the pull on the yarn was almost enough to break it as I pulled the final loops through. The result was worth it.

The finished fabric from the frame with the 1/4 inch nail spacing on the top rail (above left) was strong, smooth, and shrunk only five percent. Compare to the first pattern (above right) woven with 1/2 inch nail spacing. If the top rail’s nails are four times the diameter of the yarn, as they were on the left, it seems to be working properly.

Size of the scarf for my wife

I measured my wife’s reach and found that she would need a 64 inch scarf. Adding ten percent to compensate for shrinkage gave 70 inches for the distance from the top corner nail on the left to the top corner nail on the right.

Yarn! I need yarn!

My wife asked for a soft blue scarf. A trip to the local Hancock’s Fabrics yielded a yarn that I thought might fill the bill.

I got six skeins of Lion Brand JIFFY Quick and Easy Mohair Look Yarn for two dollars each. My calculations showed that I only needed three, but I wanted to be sure to have all of them from the same color lot. The twine is a little less than an eighth of an inch in diameter, so I figured the nails on my frame should be spaced 3/8″ apart on the top rail and about halfway apart on the side rails.

This yarn looked like it was going to be perfect. I was soon to discover that the opposite was true.

Make a very cheap triangular loom

The large loom was built using the same low cost approach as the test loom. The only materials needed were two boxes of 1 and 1/4 inch finishing nails for $1.29 each and three 8 foot 2 x 2 inch pine boards for $1.89 each.

First came the top rail. I drew a line 3/8″ from the edge of one of the boards and marked it every 3/8″ for 187 nails. I then used a plastic triangle to mark the 45 degree cut lines for the ends.

After cutting this piece, I connected the remaining two boards at one end with 3″ drywall screws, making sure the corner formed a 90 degree angle. Then I laid the top rail over it and floated its ends up and down until the lengths from the inside of the 90 degree corner and the inside corners formed by the top rail and sides were equal. Three-inch drywall screws attached the top rail to the two sides. I trimmed the excess wood on the side rails that extend over the top rail. Next, I added another nail mark at each end of the top rail to bring the total to 189. These are for the corner nails. Now I had to mark the positions for the nails on the side rails.

The spacing between the side rail nails doesn’t have to be exact, but they do have to be the right number. Too many or too few nails mean I have to do some tricky work to finish the piece. Knowing that the number of nails on each side rail is equal to the total number of nails on the top rail, I could divide the length of the side rail by the number of nails minus one and get the distance between each nail on the side rail. Theoretically I could then measure and mark the nail positions. The problem with this technique is that the distance is usually around 0.2716 inches. Since rulers aren’t marked in such units, I’d have to round it down somehow. With nearly 200 nails on a page, any small change in the marked distance means I could end up being several inches off it.

To avoid this problem, I simply used a large T-square to fall straight down from each nail on the top rail where it crossed the line for the nails on the side rails. (This line was 3/8-inch from the inside like it was for the top rail.) Then as I went to drill the holes I saw an extra hole between the marks. This gave me the exact number of nails needed.

After all nail positions were marked, the nails only had to be drilled and hammered in.

This 74-inch loom took two and a half hours to build: half an hour to make the frame and two hours to drill 591 holes and drive 591 nails into it. After all the nails were in place, I used a pair of piers to bend the nails outward a bit to help hold the yarn on top.

Instead of building a frame to hold the loom, I just screwed it to the wall. Standing is a comfortable working position and the wall provides a rock solid footing.

The total cost for this frame was $0.65 for half a box of nails (the two boxes I bought were way too much) and $4.25 for the wood (the rest of the wood went to other projects, so I subtracted its value from the total). ) That’s $4.95. Not bad!

weaving

I had barely started weaving when I encountered a catastrophic problem. The fuzz on the fake mohair yarn I bought tangled as easily as if I tried to pull a loop through the warp threads, holding all the threads of yarn together. The tangling was so bad I almost gave up.

My first attempt at overcoming the tangling problem was to run a crochet hook back and forth between the warp threads before pulling the weft through. (I’ve since learned that this is called “removing the scales,” where a “scale” is a series of warp threads that the loop either goes over or under.)

(These are my wife’s beautiful hands.)

This eliminated tangles between the warp yarns, but when I tried to pull the weft yarn in between I still had too many tangles to deal with.

Next, I tried to keep the warp yarns off the weft as I carried the loop from side to side by holding the crochet hook upright to push the warp yarns outward close to me as I guided the weft between the two layers of warp, without him touching her.

This also helped, but not enough. There had to be a way to completely prevent tangling. I’m sure experienced triangular weavers know how to do this, but writing this page I was all on my own. There had to be a solution.

There was… but it’s so weird that I don’t recommend it.

As an engineer, my immediate reaction when confronted with something that creates drag is to smear grease on everything. Tangles certainly increase resistance, so I started wondering if there wasn’t a way to treat the yarn to keep it from tangling.

The first thing I tried was soaking the yarn in water. Not good. Not only was it a mess to use, but the weight of the water caused the yarn to stretch. Next I tried rubbing the yarn with a bar of soap. Dadurch wurde ein Viertel der Haken beseitigt, aber das war nicht gut genug und außerdem brachte mich die Seife zum Niesen. Die Seifenbehandlung war jedoch vielversprechend, also versuchte ich, das Garn in flüssiger Handseife einzuweichen. Dies funktionierte nicht, weil die Seife nicht dick genug war, um die Garnfasern flach zu kleben. Es war auch unglaublich chaotisch.

Die Seifenexperimente zeigten, dass ich auf dem richtigen Weg war. Was ich brauchte, war etwas, das schnell und einfach ging und die Fasern an den Seiten des Garns anklebte: etwas mit der Konsistenz von Crisco. Ich überlegte, Crisco zu verwenden, weil ich dachte, es sollte sich auswaschen, entschied mich aber, mich nach etwas umzusehen, das auch funktionieren und sich leichter auswaschen ließe. Ich habe es gefunden.

Lebensmittel- und Baumärkte verkaufen ein Seifenprodukt namens GOOP. Es ist eine Pastenseife mit der Konsistenz von Crisco. Ich stellte fest, dass ich, indem ich einen Klecks davon in eine Hand legte und Garn durchzog, einem Garnstrang in fünfzehn Minuten eine gleichmäßige Beschichtung geben konnte. Obwohl sehr dick, ist die Seife so leicht, dass sie das Garn nicht beschweren und dehnen sollte. Während ich das Garn beschichte, lasse ich es in einen Eimer fallen und ziehe es dann beim Weben aus dem Eimer. Dies sollte Verwicklungen verhindern, es vom Boden fernhalten und sauber halten und verhindern, dass ich darauf trete. Nachdem ich einen Strang behandelt hatte, ging ich zurück zum Webstuhl.

It worked!

Die Seife beseitigte 95 Prozent der Verwicklungen. Den Rest erledigte die Räumung der Scheune. Ich war wieder im Geschäft. (Ich empfehle die Seifentechnik nicht, weil ich sicher bin, dass es bessere Techniken für den Umgang mit verworrenem Garn gibt.)

………..

….. unbehandelt ………………… mit GOOP behandelt

Ich entdeckte schnell die Gefahren dieser Technik: Ich möchte mir nie die Augen reiben und sie gab der Schokolade, die ich gerne nasche, während ich arbeitete, einen seltsamen Geschmack. Außerdem wird die Häkelnadel schwer zu handhaben, weil sie mit Seife rutschig ist. Wenn jemand die GOOP-Technik ausprobieren möchte, gehen Sie, anstatt GOOP (zwei Dollar für 14 Unzen) zu kaufen, in einen Wal-Mart-Laden und suchen Sie in der Autoabteilung nach Gojo-Seife. Es sind nur 86 Cent für 18 Unzen. Ein 18-Unzen-Behälter sollte ausreichen, um zwei Stränge zu beschichten.

(Nachdem ich diese Seite geschrieben hatte, hatte ich das Glück, mit Joanne Ambrus von der Yahoo Triloom Group zu kommunizieren, und sie erklärte, dass Mohair so verfilzt ist, dass es für ein erstes Projekt nicht empfohlen wird. Sie erwähnte, dass einige Leute Glück hatten, Verfilzungen durch Sprühen zu reduzieren das Garn mit Silikongleitmittel. Das nächste Mal, als ich einen neuen Knäuel anfangen musste, tränkte ich es mit dem Silikonspray. Das Garn ließ sich leicht verweben, ohne sich zu verheddern. Wenn man bedenkt, dass es viel schneller und einfacher ist, ist das Auftragen des Silikonsprays eine viel bessere Option als Seife. Joanne hat viel Zeit damit verbracht, diese Seite für mich zu prüfen, und ich bin ihr zu großem Dank verpflichtet. Sie hat nicht nur meine Terminologie und Rechtschreibung korrigiert, sondern auch viele hervorragende Vorschläge gemacht, die in Blaudruck dargestellt sind. Danke, Joanne! )

Nach einer Stunde Arbeit war die Anzahl der Kettfäden so groß, dass ich die Knäuel nicht mehr mit einer Häkelnadel freifegen konnte. Es war nicht lang genug. Ich hatte die Idee, einen langen, glatten Stock zu verwenden, um die gleiche Arbeit zu erledigen.

Es funktionierte großartig und hatte eine zweite Auszahlung. Indem es nach dem Entfernen der Kettfäden an Ort und Stelle blieb, hielt es die Kettlagen auseinander, was es viel einfacher machte, eine Häkelnadel nach oben zu führen, um eine Schussschlaufe zu fangen. (Der von mir verwendete Stab war aus Holz und obwohl er glatt war, neigte er dazu, sich gelegentlich an einer Faser zu verfangen. Der Wechsel zu einer langen Metallstricknadel vermied dieses Problem.)

Dann bemerkte ich, dass ein anderes Problem.

Die Schlaufen oben am Stück wurden länger, als ich mich zur Mitte vorarbeitete. Was passierte, war, dass das Gewicht des Stücks alles nach unten zog. Ohne Überprüfung könnten die Schleifen zu dem Zeitpunkt, an dem das Stück fertig war, zwei Zoll lang sein. Dies zu verhindern, erwies sich als einfach. Jedes Mal, wenn ich einen Schuss gerade schob, benutzte ich das glatte Ende der Häkelnadel, um allen Kettfäden eine Aufwärtsbürste zu geben. Dies hielt sie gleichmäßig und die obere Verwerfung eng an den Nägeln auf der oberen Schiene.

Noch ein weiteres Problem, das mit dem kleinen Testwebstuhl nicht auftrat, war, dass ich lernte, dass ich darauf achten musste, dass die Spannung auf jeder Kette gleich war. Zu locker gelassen, wie im Bild unten gezeigt, hing die Kette herunter und machte es schwierig, ihre Ordnung relativ zu den anderen Ketten klar zu halten.

Wenn die nächste Kette festgezogen würde, würde sie über der vorherigen losen Kette liegen, was zu Verwicklungen führen und die Wahrscheinlichkeit eines Fehlers erhöhen würde.

So sieht das Tuch aus, nachdem ich den halben Strang fertig gestellt habe, mit dem ich begonnen habe:

Dafür habe ich anderthalb Stunden gebraucht. Ich bemerkte, dass ich während der Arbeit dazu neigte, ständig näher an die Arbeit heranzutreten und mich dann zurücklehnte, um besser sehen zu können. Dies führte zu Schmerzen im Kreuz. Ich stellte fest, dass ich Rückenschmerzen vermeiden konnte, indem ich sicherstellte, dass ich auf Armlänge arbeitete.

Der zweite Strang dauerte vier Stunden. Ich finde, dass die meiste Webzeit damit verbracht wird, eine Häkelnadel durch die Kettfäden zu arbeiten. Wenn das Stück weiter voranschreitet, nimmt die Anzahl der Kettfäden zu, sodass jede neue Schleife länger dauert als die letzte.

So sah das Tuch nach anderthalb Knäuel aus:

(105 Runden geschafft – 84 noch übrig)

Zu diesem Zeitpunkt begannen die Fasern, sich aus dem Garn der oberen Kettfäden herauszuziehen. The soap was still preventing the loops from tangling as I brought them down but the warps were starting to snag a little when I separated them (cleared the shed s) prior to bringing a new loop down. I think what is happening is that the soap is being drawn toward the center of the yarn. As this happens, it’s pulled away from the surface and the fibers are exposed. Fortunately, they still have enough soap on them to prevent most of the tangles.

Note: it was at this point that I switched from coating the yarn with soap to saturating the skein with silicone spray.

The picture above shows one of the unique attractions of triangle loom weaving: the artistic appearance of the loom with a project on it. The shape of the loom is perfectly repeated in beautiful balance and symmetry by the two triangles in the upper corners and the open triangle at the bottom. These shapes are pleasantly contrasted by the large rectangular section of open warps in the middle. I was half tempted to leave it as is and call it a wall sculpture, but my wife’s shoulders were still cold so I carried on.

I discovered that one of the danger areas in weaving was where the two knitting needles I was using to clear the shed s overlapped.

It’s very easy at this point to misread the warps and drag the loop over or under the wrong line. I found that overlapping the needles so they both went over and under a few of the same warps helped avoid this confusion.

Sometimes the warps tangled when clearing the shed s and other times they didn’t. I traced the source of this occasional tangling to how I was holding the knitting needle used for the clearing.

What I found was that if I let my fingers ride up the needle far enough to bunch the warps (pictured above on the left) they would tangle as I dragged the needle across the work. The reason was that as the lines of yarns were forced to cross each other the bunching caused them to rub together and snag fibers. From now on I’m careful to hold the needle well away from the warps (picture on the right) so the warps can pass each other without touching.

After two and a half skeins:

It was at this point that I noticed the warps were so tight that it was getting hard to work yarn through them. I believe the reason is that I began with the warp lines far too tight. I didn’t stretch them but I pulled them snug enough so that they made straight lines across the loom. I think that if I had started with the yarn loose enough so that the warps hung down one inch in the center it would have provided enough slack so that by the time I got almost done the weave would be comfortably snug without being drum tight.

I quit using tangle preventer half a skein before the picture above was taken and noticed that I wasn’t having any tangle problems. I can only assume that in some way unknown to me my technique has improved to where I avoided tangles.

Finished!

All together it took three skeins, a little over 400 yards of yarn, which is close to the 425 yards I estimated.

Before taking the shawl off the loom I used a knitting needle to close up any wide gaps in the weave and open up areas where yarn bunched together.

Because my wife asked that the shawl not have a fringe, I simply popped the shawl off the loom after tying off the two loose ends, deciding not to add a braided edge to it.

After a hot wash and dry all of the areas where I didn’t get the yarn evenly spaced adjusted themselves so the weave looked uniform.

The yarn fluffed up very nicely and is thick and soft to the touch.

However, there were a few problems.

(Please note the vertical bunching in the center.

It’s much more obvious in person)

Although I tried to separate the two lines of yarn from the last loop, they crowded together to form a rib running down the center of the shawl. I realize now that the problem is that I created adjacent lines of yarn next to each other going over and under the same warps instead of the two lines alternating as they do everywhere else. The fix for this is to pull the loose end of this last loop down, tie it off, and cut the extra yarn off. That way the alternating pattern of the weave will be constant across the face of the piece.

The worst mistake I made was to accidentally pull a loop over a warp I was supposed to go under.

Look carefully at the center of the picture above and you’ll spot where a weft goes under a warp it was supposed to go over. The resulting bumps look much more obvious when holding the shawl. I regret to confess that there are eight of these in the shawl and it seriously compromises its appearance. My lesson from this is that it’s impossible to be too careful about making sure the loops are properly pulled through the warps.

Finally, I learned the value of adding a fringe to the shawl. Besides providing a place to hide knots a fringe also covers up the long wisps of fiber that are pulled out of the edge of the shawl during washing.

After washing, it shrunk almost exactly ten percent from an initial width of 70.5 inches between the top two corner nails down to a finished width of 64 inches.

It took me a total of 12 hours to make this shawl. I’m sure an experienced weaver could have done it much faster and certainly much better. But, for a first effort it turned out okay, I learned many things, and my wife’s shoulders are no longer cold. What more could one ask for?

I take a stab at square loom weaving

The only picture I could find of a square loom showed that they have an odd number of pegs on each side so I began by making a small test loom with 19 nails on each rail.

I began by securing the yarn to the left corner with a slip knot then carrying the yarn over to the right corner.

I looped the yarn under and around the right corner nail, up and over the next nail (I’m using every other nail to make seeing the warps and wefts easier) and back to the left side of the loom.

At the left side I brought the yarn over and around the next nail, (again skipping every other nail to open up the weave for viewing convenience) down and around the nail below it and back to the right.

Once I’d gotten back to the right I could start weaving. Using a crochet needle I reached under the center warp, snagged a loop in the yarn just carried over from the left and pulled it up and around the next nail. The left side of the loop was then carried back over to the left.

After carrying the loop to the left I circled the next nail with it, pulled it down and around the appropriate bottom nail, then back to the right.

It’s now simply a matter of repeating the process of weaving loops up through the warps on the right, carrying the left side of each loop to the left, over and around the top and bottom nails, and back to the right. The big difference between triangle loom weaving and square loom weaving is that with a triangle loom you alternate pulling loops up and down through the warps on each side of the loom whereas with a square loom the loops are always pulled through the warps on the the right side, or at least on the side opposite to that where the yarn was originally tied.

(The finished test piece)

Note that as with a triangle loom, the last loop is unsecured. The easiest way to lock it down is to pull the loose end of the last loop through the work and tie it off to the previous loop.

At this point I noticed that this square loom looks a lot like a ring knitter. (Please see my Knitting Nancy page of an explanation of ring knitting.) In theory I should be able to transition from a flat woven piece to a ring knitting pattern by holding yarn against each nail and carrying the loom’s existing loops up and over the yarn. This would enable me to weave vertical sides directly onto the flat square. I didn’t do it because it would only look good if all the nails were used instead of every other one as shown here. There are 76 nails on the circumference of the loom. Figuring that it takes five seconds per loop, it would take six minutes to go around it once. If I wanted a box with sides four inches tall it would require 216 minutes or about three and a half hours, a little much for me just to get a small box.

Note: if you use a square shaped loom like a Knitting Nancy, it will not produce a square tube. The tube will be round. (Thanks, Lynn!)

What learning to weave on a triangle loom taught me

I assume that most nonweavers, like I used to be, think that weaving is nothing but boring mindless repetition. Nothing is further from the truth. Because mistakes are easy to miss and can have catastrophic results to the finished piece, every step of the weaving process has to be scrutinized to make sure it’s correct. Constant attention must be paid to technique and how to improve it. A change that saves a few seconds per weft can add up to taking an hour off the time to finish a large project. The weaver must always be thinking, constantly examining his or her work and technique, and ever watchful.

Making a large shawl can be a lot of work and take a long time. But, the finished piece is uniquely your own and will last for years. Given to another, it is a gift of warmth and comfort that will be greatly appreciated.

As the square loom above showed, the concept of using interlocking loops to weave is not limited to triangular shaped looms.

To get the spacing of the nails on the sides use your T square but put the T along the short side and line up with the marks clear across the top. Do one side then put the T on the other side and continue marking by lining up with the top marks. This will give you the same number of nails on each side as there are across the top.

Instead of using the crochet hook to straighten your weaving go buy a wide hair pick comb. Perfect for respacing the weaving.

To handle the fuzzy yarn mix up a flour and water sizing. Wind the yarn in a large skein then dip the yarn and squeeze out the sizing. Hang to dry under tension. Keeps the fuzzy down, washes out easily and is really cheap.

For the large loom if you over lap the corners with half lap joints you can join them with nuts. Makes it easy to take the loom apart for storing or transporting.

For dealing with drawing down the last loop through the center of the piece, try using a flute cleaning rod. They are 14 inches long, thin, and have a convenient eye in the end to hold the yarn.

Barb also sent me some good photos of her color-changing technique.

Tie the new color to the old.

Pull the new color through the warps.

Retie the new color to the old so that the knot is located on the edge of the piece and continue weaving as before. This places the knot on one of the short edges where it can be hidden in the fringe. Also, It gets it away from the top edge where it would receive more rubbing and stretching and would be more prone to coming undone.

I want to thank everyone on the Internet who took the time to write and post descriptions of triangle loom weaving. Without their excellent guidance I wouldn’t have been able to put this page together. In reality all I did was parrot what they had to say and add a few pictures for clarification. If anyone visiting this page notices any errors I would greatly appreciate hearing from them so I can correct the mistakes.

I would particularly like to thank Joanne Ambrus for sending me many helpful emails. (Thanks Joanne!) She contributed significantly to this page. She is preparing a book on triangle loom weaving and I encourage everyone to obtain a copy as soon as it’s available.

Sweet Leaf Notebook: Building the Triangle Loom

This blog documents my experiments and successes with fabrics and fibers, surface design, sewing, weaving, photography and whatever else I can think of. Enjoy …

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